/bqg/ - Bike Questions General
Resources:
http://sheldonbrown.com/
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
If you want help picking out a bicycle, post in >>>/n/bbg , not here.
Old thread
>>966245
I lost 1 ball bearing like pic related(not mine) from my headset, is it absouloutley necessary to find it or can i just leave it? also if i do leave it should i place it top or bottom?
>>969388
replace it with a bearing of the same size. If you can't replace it, for whatever reason, place it on the top of your headset.
>>969388
>I lost 1 ball bearing like pic related(not mine) from my headset, is it absouloutley necessary to find it or can i just leave it?
You'll be fine. Some people even prefer to leave a 1-bearing gap in headsets intentionally. Also, if you replace one bearing, you should replace them all. Having bearings from different batches means a very slight difference in size (even if they're the same grade, brand, etc) and that's bad.
>also if i do leave it should i place it top or bottom?
Do you even have the same size bearings on top and bottom? I believe they're sometimes different. If they're the same, I don't think it really matters. Maybe top just because bottom will have more weight on it. But again, some people leave such a gap intentionally so it won't do any harm even on bottom.
After a short 8 mile ride my bike was getting easier to pedal the problem is I had to pedal more often to go the same distance as before. Anyone know what the problem is?
>>969405
>After a short 8 mile ride my bike was getting easier to pedal the problem is I had to pedal more often to go the same distance as before. Anyone know what the problem is?
You shifted gear.
bike nub here, my front shifter clicks when changing gear, the mech moves but then springs back. Shimano tiagra gears. Is my brifter busted or am I just useless?
>>969442
turns out I'm an idiot and had it in the wrong gear when tightening the cable, now however it wont shift down, makes a hollow empty click when i try and doesnt move
Kinda dumb question, but you never know.
My father had a few broken spokes on his rear wheel and brought it to the LBS. The guy gave him a new wheel for the same price the repair would cost. When I put the wheel back in, I noticed that it doesn't turn freely, as if the hub isn't greased or something. The wheels gets to a full stop after half a revolution.
Is this normal and will get looser after a while or is the hub fucked?
>>969448
If you are using old fashioned cup and cone bearings instead of modern cartridge bearings, that may explain it
The thing about cup & cone is that, despite what shimano shills will insist, adjusting them is an occult art not a science. If you don't have at least 6 months experience adjusting them, they'll seize and grind. The tension has to be exactly right. What is 'exactly right'? Not a number, more like something less than an emotion, but more than an instinct. Don't understand? Pay your LBS to fix it.
>>969448
>The wheels gets to a full stop after half a revolution
Get some cone spanners and adjust it until you've satisfied. Too loose and the wheel wobbles, too tight and the wheel spins down like you're seeing. It's a little tedious to get it just right but it's not that hard.
>>969449
>adjusting them is an occult art not a science
That's being dramatic but it's half right.
>>969390
your advice is true in theory but not in practice. Chance is that OP is using bearings in a retainer (unless they have an old French bicycle, an old English cycle, or some garbage belief that they should pack headsets loose ball), so they would not leave a bearing out. The retainer has already left that bearing out for them, so now their bicycle would have two (2) missing bearings.
In theory bearing grade is important, but in practice, especially in a system like a headset, you can really get away with not caring. Just place the retainer with a missing bearing at the top of the headset, which receives a a very small amount of load.
>>969442
>>969444
pop your shifter into it's lowest gear. Feel the tension on the cable. It should be taut, but it shouldn't be piano wire tight. Tension the cable if it is loose. If that doesn't fix the problem, go back down to your lowest gear and squeeze the brake lever closed so you can see into the guts of your STI. You should see the head of your cable resting in a small purpose made stop (where the red arrow is point in pic). If the head of your cable isn't in there, you are in a bit of a pickle, since you (or someone else) installed the cable incorrectly. You'll have to fish the old cable out and place it in it's lil stop before you shifting will work.
>>969448
that is really lousy because any LBS worth their weight in salt knows that most pre-built wheels they buy need two things:
1) The spokes should be stressed, tensioned, and then the wheel should be trued.
2) The hub should be placed into proper adjustment.
I've worked at co-op for the last couple of years that stocks mostly used parts with some new stuff to fill the gaps, and my experience with most machine built wheels that are sent to the shop are 90% completed, with the other 10% to be completed by a mechanic.
Buy some cone wrenches like >>969471 recommended and take matters into your own hand. Just read the Sheldon Brown article on hub adjustment first, or watch some youtube videos or something.
>>969471
I find the dynamics of a cup and cone bearing system to be quite intuitive, but understand how it is a bit off putting for a lot of folks. Cartridge is a mighty nice upgrade for thems who don't wanna fool around with the minutia of adjusting their hubs and would rather just ride.
Anyone have any tips on a BMX budget cruiser?
>>969438
it's a fixie
I want to build my own wheelset. Can I get away with just watching youtube videos and using a spoke length calculator? I've done pretty much every other kind of bike build/maintenance so far just by watching videos or figuring it out myself.
>>969482
Wheel building without a tensionmeter, a notebook, and a truing stand is like trying to go into bullet time. If you're The One, you might get shot a few times but after that everything will be just dandy. If you're not...
>>969486
Oh, I'm going to buy all of that stuff. I've got a truing stand, tension meter, dish tool and nipple driver in my amazon cart.
>>969504
Oh.
Well, best case it's easy, worst case it's a tedious pain in the ass. Just depends on the build.
Since you're spending the money to do it right, you may as well also consider taking a wheelbuilding class if you can find one. Often a thing at bike co-ops.
>>969506
Yeah the Bike Kitchen in SF has one but it's one-on-one and seems like kind of a pain to schedule. I'm hoping I can make it work with videos and reading.
![Screen-Shot-2015-08-07-at-10.17.00-AM[1].png](https://i.imgur.com/ki4qqxY.jpg "Screen-Shot-2015-08-07-at-10.17.00-AM[1].png")
I really enjoy this youtube channel and they have tons of beginners stuff
I'm got a touring bike I'm screwing with, doing stupid things to
Right now I'm about to test out a 12-42 rear cassette + 42/36/26 front
Main goal is to get my lowest gear inch measurement to ~16.8
I can get the same result with a 22t chainring and a 36t rear cog, but I'll have to but a new MTB crankset to get a chainring that small
Should I just go with the ridiculous 42t cog or wait for a MTB crank or just straight up kill myself
>>969528
What do you currently have? A new crankset would be cheaper than switching to 11 speed if you currently have 9/10. Does your current crankset not have granny ring threading (64BCD) or is it some larger variant (5 bolt perhaps)?
Finally, why do you feel you need such low gearing? Are you hauling stuff or are you just weak (I don't mean that as an insult)?
>>969532
I want a touring bike I could take over the sky way road in Shenandoah. It's maybe 50-80 miles depending on how far you go, and lots of steep hills. Want to bring full picnic with me / water for a day, etc.
I have 5 bolt, so smallest chainring I can use for 74bcd is 24t
I have the 42t on a cheap shimano
9 speed, removed the 11t. Eyeballing it looks good. I know the guy who runs faqload.com has no problem putting a extended range cog on a 9 speed cassette, no spacers needed.
I am 80% sure my SLX long cage will work, based on forum posts
But part of me says, don't do something this kludgey, just run the 36t 9 speed and upgrade to a standard MTB triple later
I guess my question is more of an aesthetic/philosophical one. For touring bikes, something exotic like a 42t wolftooth cog is kinda stupid to have if something bad happens and you need to replace the cassette, but I mean... how often does a cassette fail? More likely the hub dies...
Still, aesthetics. Must please the bike god in the sky
>>969532
Pic related
And yes, I'm weak. Out of shape because I had kids and haven't ridden regularly in 2 years
I did do a 110 mile ride recently, but stopped a lot. Averaged 10 miles an hour
I'm switching to shorter cranks because I'm old and the knees need protecting. But shorter cranks bump up your gain ratio (ie feels like you've geared down) and aren't the best for climbs
>>969527
Simon is my favorite, Matt solid but distant second
>>969527
Banterlicious and no Aussie dialect - yep love it. But what's ur question?
>>969544
I've not got a question at the moment, but I'm a beginner myself and these guys have a lot of helpful (and entertaining) videos for amateurs getting into cycling so wanted to share for fellow newbies
>>969538
So you already have the 42t expander cog? If it works then stick with it. I don't know how much it matters but manufacturers usually recommend you remove the 16/17t cog, if you did that you'd also have more range on the top end if you need that.
I wouldn't worry about replacements, you're not going to wear out the 42t any time soon and if you need to replace the cassette for any reason you can still carry on using the 42t with it.
>>969480
>it's a fixie
Did you take it to a Japanese highschool girl to get a puncture fixed?
>>969482
I'm also doing literally everything myself. Build and maintain my own bike etc. But there is one thing I would never mess around with, and that is wheel building.
You need tools for that which are expensive + it is a long and tedious process, which may not turn out that great. Even if I was a wheel building god, I'd never do it, because it is just not fun and I'd rather shove that to some guy who does it every day and pay him.
What is a good gear ratio for a single speed roadie that is only used in totally flat city?
I have a 50 teeth chainring and need to decide what freewheel to get. I was thinking about 18 teeth, or would 50-18 ratio be too hard?
>>969661
I run 42/16 which i think is pretty comfy.
50/18 could work for no hills if you're a bit stronger than me.
>>969661
You won't be able to pedal fast confortably with 2.77; i used to run something close to that and sprinting was shit because i had to pedal like Sanic.
I'm 2.93 right now and it's OK, but i want 3.1 to go faster though.
>>969661
That' might be alright but we can't say for sure as we don't know how strong you are. That ratio is 20mph at 90rpm, I can maintain about 18mph at say 80rpm so using a similar gear ratio (I have multiple gears but that's what I cruise with on flat ground). I'm a fairly small guy (178cm 66kg) but probably strong for my size so say I'm average-ish strength.
Think about it this way, with single speed you have to make a choice. You can either gear high and accelerate slow (okay if you don't have to make too many stops) or you can gear low and accelerate quickly but have a lower top speed.
>>969658
Duly noted.
>>969673
Or try to borrow a similar multispeed bike to see which ratio you would be most comfortable in.
>>969673
Also this.
I forgot to tell you; you have a 50t so the options are very good for cogs, you can experiment a lot.
I have a 44t and it's a fixie so my opitions are more limited due to skid points.
>>969479
check your local craigslist, bike co-op, flea markets, and pawnshops. I think your chances are pretty good at the last two.
because poor people love two things:
1) spending money they don't have and then having to get some money back for bills and whatnot
2) BMX
>>969661
Most people will tell you 70 gear inches
Stop thinking about ratios and start thinking in gear inches, or better, GAIN RATIOS
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gain.html
http://sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html
>>969770
Gain ratios are bad, unless you're moving to shorter cranks for cornering clearance. Crank length should really be based on ergonomic considerations. Even then it just gives you an idea.
>>969771
>Gain ratios are bad
Are you talking shit on Sheldon Brown right now you fucking pleb?
If you understood gain ratios you'd understand why your "gear ratios" and "gear inches" are an imprecise measure of the effort needed to move a bike - bringing crank length into the equation is best
>>969527
>How does gradient affect pedalling style?
>each of them making extremely serious and perplexed faces
lol!
>Front (left hand) shifter no longer functions to shift, only to brake
>still running an old triple crankset (3x10)
>live in a flat area of Florida
I'm considering buying a single crankset and running 1x10. I only ever use my 39t cog and now that my shifter isn't working, I have the chain permanently set on the 39t cog because it feels optimal.
My question is whether you guys think I should get a 42t single? And where could I find a cheap crankset?
>>969832
I should also specify my cassette is 12-25
>>969832
No need to buy a new crankset. Sure your chainline might be a few millimetres out from optimal (if you're running square taper you could change the axle length to adjust it) but it'll still work fine.
Only you can really answer whether you should get the 42t. Do you want the extra speed? Can you cope with the slightly higher lowest gear?
>>969832
stay with the 39t.
how often do you wish for a higher gear.
if not so often keep it.
I feel like there is this weird image in the collective cycling brain that big chain rings are for hardcore cyclists and that one has to be ashemd if one runs a small ring.
the fixie guys are pretty hardcore at this with they're super steezy 52x12 setups that are super dysfunctional.
I run 40 up front with a mtb casset in a 1x10 setup.
I really wouldn't go higher , especially for commuting.
yo /n/ ,
I have built up an allright xc bike and I have lots of fun riding it.
the thing is.
I don't know anybod else who does and I haven't found something like a club around here.
I only found a forum where 40 smthn guys talk about downhill in a nearby region.
I#m not even sure what I ride is propper XC.
I'd love to do a few events.
....
how do I do that ?
>>969832
flat riding on a 40-39-38 is comfy. keep it. u noy racing. i like my 40t and 38t 1x when i had them. flat here too
>>969850
>40 smthn guys
That's a lot of guys, talk to them. Someone will know something and their events are probably cool.
Going to replace the threaded headset on my old steel MTB. I've never really done this before and I'm on a budget, is there any brand or model that's good but also on the cheaper side?
Previous owner decided to spray paint both of the wheels black? Some if it's already chipping off on the hub. What would be the best way to get rid of it? I was thinking of putting some paint thinner in a spray bottle and spraying entire wheel and let it soak. Then I would use a pressure washer . Would this work or am I screwed ?
What's the difference between the rs500 crank and the 105 one? Is it worth upgrading?
>>970038
>letting paint thinner get anywhere near bearings
>spraying a pressure washer near bearings
I really, really hope you're trolling.
>>969661
Truly completely flat? 50/11 you weak fuck.
>>969479
You could try becoming an hero, I heard that helps with BMX bikes and cruisers.
>>969444
Start completely over with derailleur adjustment. Use Park Tool or Sheldon Brown guide. Start with the shifter set into the highest (smallest) sprocket (least amount of cable tension, fully relaxed spring) and the chain on the smallest sprocket, set high limit screw, then attach cable.
>>969475
>your advice is true in theory but not in practice.
If he is using a retainer then yes, I agree with you. When I said that some people leave out one bearing, I was referring to a loose ball setup.
>garbage belief that they should pack headsets loose ball
According to Sheldon Brown's website (though I believe that this is per Harris Cyclery, not Sheldon himself), loose balls perform better than retainers. Only advantages of retainers are cost (for manufacturers) and ease of installation. Do you disagree with that?
>>970050
Slightly lighter and stiffer. Not worth changing until it's worn. Then it's around the same cost to change the crank than buy new chainrings so it's a good idea. You'll probably go through ~3 cassettes and ~10 chains before the chainrings are worn. If you don't ride that much then the weight and stiffness wouldn't affect you anyway.
>>970038
>Some if it's already chipping off on the hub
Bench it. Then wash with a rag damped in turps or whatever. Consider unbuilding the wheel but that's a shit load of work.
Are there any guides out there about converting an old steel 10 speed into a cyclocross touring rig? I want something to take on long trips/adventures when I'm done with college in a couple years
>>970081
>cyclocross touring rig
Those are opposite things. Touring bikes have long wheel bases and CX have short ones.
What you really mean is that you want a road bike fitted with 35mm tires, racks and fenders. If you're doing long distance riding then get a touring bike. An OTS could make a tourer, it's wheel base is in the middle somewhere but that and the shifter mounts are the only real difference.
Measure the chain stays and see if your frame can actually fit the tires you want, if it can then read up replacing down tube shifters with brifters or barcons, it's all you really need to do.
It would be cheaper and easier to just buy a touring bike off bikesdirect. It won't be any worse than what you cobble together without any real experience or understanding of gear.
Consider pic related for $700 or these:
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/road_bikes.htm#touring3
Check: >>>/n/bbg
>>970087
They aren't opposite. Cx and touring bikes are pretty similar, and a few bikes basically are cx tourers (i.e. Salsa Vaya). But of course cx riding and touring are very different types of cycling.
>bikesdirect
Into the trash it goes!
>Consider pic related for $700 or these:
>$700 touring bike
Into the trash it goes!
>>969997
I ment more like they're in their fourties.
but you ar probably right.
I should just talk to them.
>>970099
do it faggot
I am in my 20s
and I do group rides with guys in their 50s
My aluminium frame road bike has had a small tick once per revolution of the cranks for quite a while, it was super quiet and only occurred when I was pushing hard or mashing up hills so I mostly ignored it after trying and failing to fix it.
I fell over while clipped in and standing still the other day (onto grass), and ever since, the tick from before is way louder and much easier to trigger, and when I put power down (say >400 W), it sounds like someone is making popcorn in my bottom bracket, a loud crackling/popping sound.
I've taken the whole bike apart, regreased, retorqued etc.. It's not the pedals (I tried another pair), it still happens with the chain off, out of the saddle, and without touching the bars, so it must be in the cranks or the bottom bracket, right?
I've taken the cranks off and there doesn't seem to be anything wrong, also the bottom bracket is reasonably clean and feels smooth as butter, BB cups are mounted securely, but when I put the cranks back together (hollowtech 2), the sounds come back. I feel like I've systematically eliminated every single possible cause, what the hell else could it be? The only thing I can think of is a crack in the frame in the BB area might be making the crackling sound? Does anyone have any goddamn idea what it could be? (no, it's not a cable hitting anything, or shoelaces, etc.)
>>970009
headsets don't really make a difference. not in the context of a steel mtb.
I'd look for something with sealed bearings.
>>970102
>My aluminium frame road bike has had a small tick once per revolution of the cranks for quite a while, it was super quiet and only occurred when I was pushing hard or mashing up hills so I mostly ignored it after trying and failing to fix it.
BOTTOM
BRACKET
OVERHAUL
>I've taken the whole bike apart, regreased, retorqued etc.. It's not the pedals (I tried another pair), it still happens with the chain off, out of the saddle, and without touching the bars, so it must be in the cranks or the bottom bracket, right?
BOTTOM
BRACKET
OVERHAUL
>I've taken the cranks off and there doesn't seem to be anything wrong, also the bottom bracket is reasonably clean and feels smooth as butter, BB cups are mounted securely, but when I put the cranks back together (hollowtech 2), the sounds come back. I feel like I've systematically eliminated every single possible cause, what the hell else could it be? The only thing I can think of is a crack in the frame in the BB area might be making the crackling sound? Does anyone have any goddamn idea what it could be? (no, it's not a cable hitting anything, or shoelaces, etc.)
TAKE THE BOTTOM BRACKET OUT
CLEAN THE BB SHELL
CLEAN THE BB
REPLACE THE BEARINGS
REPLACE THE GREASE
if it still doesn't work, then use that green stuff on the bb threads, idk what it's called but it makes noisy bbs stop being noisy if normal overhaul doesn't work
>>970105
oh and be careful with the green stuff because it's toxic, so do it with gloves and don't let any residue of it get left around
idk if it's made specifically for bikes or not
I just know that it works
and a mechanic I know uses it
and I used it once
and it always works
>>970038
similar question.
previous owner spraypainted a nice specialized stumpjumper black.
it a shame.
is there a way to get rid of the spray paint ?
I heard the spraypaint is different from the factory paint.
any tips ?
>>970107
you have to completely disassemble the bike because you don't want to get any solvent or anything in the bearings
then take JUST THE FRAME AND FORK (take them apart, so you don't have the headset bearings in there) then clean them somehow
if you soak the whole bike you will destroy your bearings
>>970105
Is it possible to remove/replace the bearings on a hollowtech 2 bottom bracket? I can take the seal off and see the bearings, and add more grease (which I've done), but as far as I can tell you cant actually take the bearings out, you just have to buy a new bottom bracket at that point?
I have a new one coming in the mail because it's the only thing I can even think would be the culprit, but I'm not really confident that it's going to solve my problem/
What is the green stuff? grease? loc tite? something else?
>>970112
I don't even remember what it's called, it might be a Loctite product, I can try to find out and get back to you on that, so keep checking the thread in case I find out, or post a throway email address here and I'll email you if I find out
I don't know if the Hollowtech bbs have replacable bearings. With sealed bearings you aren't supposed to open them up, but you might be able to replace the bearings (including the ring thing that they are sealed within; you'd be replacing that whole assembly) without replacing the full bb. Not sure if you can with Hollowtechs. My guess is that yes you can if you know what size bearings to get. Look into Enduro, they probably make what you need. http://www.endurobearingsonline.com/
>>970112
>>970114
Btw you might have to pry the bearings out. Sometimes they get stuck in really firmly. You can take a screwdriver and hammer to get them out (screwdriver head against bearings, hit other end of screwdriver with hammer, work around it slowly) So what if you damage the bearings, point is to get them out so you can replace them
And to be clear I'm not talking about just the bearing balls
I'm talking about the metal rings they are sealed within (which by the way you should not really be opening and regreasing, if they are in need of that it's probably time to just replace them)
>>970087
Yeah i don't really want to do any of that. Why is everyone on /n/ so afraid of modifying bikes and always goes straight to "just buy [new bike]"? that takes all the pleasure out of accomplishing something yourself. All i want is a sturdy bike that i can ride for long distances that can handle various terrain and also support some panniers/racks
>>970100
The shop owner at the group rides I go to must be in his 40s or 50s, he's so strong it's ridiculous.
>>970102
I had a similar issue, turned out I was a retard and my QR levers weren't done up right. I suggest checking those.
>>970127
>my QR levers weren't done up right.
Since I'm not afraid of losing the respect earned by the Anonymous alias...I've done that.
I wondered what the tinking sound was, it was a QR lever being up too high and too in and plinking on the spokes sometimes, or maybe just on a reflector.
There's something weird about my little brother's bike. I was out riding it and there was this strange pulling sensation whenever I would turn and when I would stand up off the seat to peddle faster and would slightly pivot the bike from side to side. If I went to make a left turn, I could feel the bike trying to pull to the left. This pulling felt really strange, I was seriously worried that I was going to fall over because of how bizarre it felt to control.
My personal bike feels nothing like it. I ride my bike all the time and constantly ride it with my hands behind my back and off the handlebars. I feel like I'm in completely control on my bike and there is no "pulling" sensation.
Anybody have a clue what the problem is with my little brother's bike?
>>970147
me
My little brother's bike is a "Schwinn Sidewinder," less than a year old.
He rides it to school everyday and has never complained about it, but he's just a kid so I'm sure he doesn't realize just how bad it is.
>>970147
My uniformed thought would be the headset bearings are stuffed somehow, but there are probably anons who know better.
Is that Schwalbe professional tires guy there? Just saw these little cracks in my Schwalbe Marathon Mondial tires. Just 3 month old. Do I maybe have too much pressure on it?
>>970149
>Sidewinder
>Winds to the side
I don't see a problem here
>>970258
goddamn it
Do Shimano 8 speed chains have a certain direction?
Normally, the non-scripted side has to face towards the non-drive side, but this chain has inscriptions on both sides.
I try to ride to work every day, but it's pretty hilly and I end up exhausted even though it's only 5 miles total. It's not. A problem until a week of it when I end up too stiff to ride. How can I improve my situation? Is stretching the most important part?
>>970270
Stretching is stone age crap, foam rolling is what you want to do
If the exhaustion is debilitating or if you're experiencing pain in connective tissues or joints, ride 3 or 4 days a week instead of 5, and figure out what's causing the pain
If it's just "oh wow I'm tired lol" and general muscle soreness, then just power through it, and keep an eye on diet and rest
Improvements will come rapidly at that level, but any kind of repetitive stress injury needs to be stopped early because they can take you out of commission for weeks or longer
>>969482
Just built muh own wheels. I'd definitely suggest it if you already know the ropes for other kinds of bike work. I'd also just suggest it in general so you better understand how wheels work. And even if you decide not to do your own work in the long-term, at least take a class so you know and understand what goes into making a good wheel.
I paid out the nose to have a wheelset built for me, and both wheels proved to be out-of-true and not properly centered--I only discovered this months later, and only ever discovered it because of learning wheel building. Buying custom wheels is a big expense, and knowing if the wheels were actually made right is a big investment.
Finally, I found the process intuitive after grasping a few simple concepts. You won't regret it.
>>970265
They're not directional.
>>970270
Previous anon is right that you may just need to develop fitness, and a regular program of stretching is important (foam rollers are for recovery, they don't replace stretching to improve flexibility) - but before anything else, I'd make sure you're reasonably well fit on the bike. If you're riding with the saddle too low or too high that could be contributing to your discomfort and stiffness, and left uncorrected can lead to actual injury.
Best budget suspension fork for 26er? 120 mm travel, 1 1/8", disc brake and from Europe.
>>970290
>They're not directional.
Great, thanks.
My HS1s are loud as fuck- tried all the usual fixes and they still can be heard for miles. Will switching to a rotor w/ less surface area help with noise and will it perform the same? Hs1s work great but its embarrassing to ride.
>>970310
what are "all the usual fixes"
when I hear vague shit like that it's a red flag that the person skipped something critical
>>970318
changing pade, cleaning rotors, perfect alignment. I'm convinced its some sort of resonance thing w/ my brake/wheel combo. The sound is def coming from the rotors though- both front and rear and really bad when wet. And yes I know avids are notorious for noise.
>>970298
second for interest
Hey guys, I have a question regarding bike clothing
I will soon embark on a journey of a few weeks cycling. First time doing this.
It's gonna be hot but I'm not gonna ride a lot everyday. I'm not sure which pants to use.
Jeans (yes, I usually use jeans) are too heavy and I don't like those super tight cycling shorts.
What's the middle term?
>>970298
What sort of budget? You've got the Rockshox TK forks (XC 30, 30 Silver, Recon Silver, shit like that) starting at a little over £100 (convert that to whatever you use) and then below that you're probably looking Suntour stuff (not as bad as people will tell you).
>>970324
Get over it
Or, actually, don't. Suffer for weeks because you're too insecure to dare being mistaken for someone who takes cycling remotely seriously
>>970328
I never said I have any problem with being mistaken by a cyclist. At most I would find it weird because I'm not one. I thought my question made it clear.
Anyway, I'll probably cycle at most 4h a day, in an extremely slow pace. I'm asking because I want pants that can be used on both cycling and casual ocasions, otherwise I'll have to pack more.
>>970324
mtb shorts with a liner
>>970324
Just go with the cycling tights. That will probably be the most comfortable, after days in the saddle. You will just wear holes in your jeans (personal experience of riding with jeans.)
Or try some proper hiking pants. Do this, and report back to me with your experience.
One side of my disk rotors is smoother than the other. Does that matter?
Also, why do they have holes in them? Doesn't that rip at the pads?
>>970324
Wear regular shorts over cycling shorts if you're worried someone in a truck might call you a fag.
>>970350
Either one of your pads is rubbing or making contact before the other one (so when you brake lightly only one pad is being used). If you've got single piston calipers (a lot of cable ones like BB5/7) that's to be expected and you can't really do anything about it. If you've got dual piston calipers try centering them a bit better.
>Also, why do they have holes in them? Doesn't that rip at the pads?
They allow the pads to bite into the disc providing more friction, also more surface area for getting rid of heat and stuff like dirt or water. Technically it will wear the pad quicker but they're made with that in mind and it's worth the trade off for better braking performance.
>>970355
How can I tell if I have dual piston calipers?
>>970059
Loose balls do perform better than bearings in retainers, and it can make a big difference in systems like hubs and bottom brackets. However, when working on headsets, the general consensus is that the improvement in performance is so minuscule that it isn't worth the effort.
So yeah, you can pack them loose, and yeah, there will be a slight improvement in the smoothness of the headset. But I've never met a mechanic who packs headsets with loose balls because it isn't worth it.
As a follow up, your advice almost always annoys me. It is obvious that you are really well read on bicycle wrenching, but you don't seem to have much actual wrenching experience. Plus, you don't pay enough attention to give good advice (e.g. >>969442 >>969444 was asking about their front derailleur and you gave advice that would be useful for adjusting a rear derailleur. This is simply a matter of reading comprehension, but you've made similar mistakes several times)
Please cease posting in the BQG until you gain a working mechanical knowledge based on experience and not reading Sheldon Brown and the Park Tool website.
>>970367
If they're hydraulic they're almost certainly dual piston. If they're cable they're likely single piston, there's a few dual piston ones like the TRP Spyre.
my idiot asshole stepdad gave me this last weekend
can someone tell me how to covert it to fixed gear? I only ride fixed and I told him that and he said just try it first but I want to lol at him next time he sees it set to fixed
>>970381
Send it to me I'll FIX it 4 you.
>>970381
>idiot asshole stepdad gave me this last weekend
What a fucking asshole.
>>970381
2/10 I can see someone being this stupid and spoiled
>>970381
sell it and buy a huffy aerowind
>>970381
well trolled / 10
>>970330
I'm a fatarse so I don't generally like to go full lycra.
On rides like that, I wore leggings under mtb shorts (no liner) and mtb top which was basically baggy lycra.
My bottom bracket's removal tool fits only adjustable cup on non drive side, diameter on my tool is about 3.15cm wide(20tooth). For the fixed cup on drive side fhe tool doesnt fit. What type of tool do i need, and why can't it be the same on both sides?
>>970509
Photos? My best guess would be that someone put odd cups in for some reason (perhaps the one you can't remove is seized, or one got damaged and they couldn't find an identical replacement), this is assuming the bike had a previous owner.
>>970081
>>970123
Just add racks, panniers, touring tires, and strong wheels. Raise the bars a bit if you want, you won't want an aggressive fit for touring. Maybe add aero bars just for an extra hand position. Make sure all sprockets (including pulleys) are in good condition, make sure chain isn't stretched, check cables and housing, etc, so you discover any problems before the ride starts. You may also want to change the gearing depending on the current gearing, personal preference, and how hilly your tour will be.
Do all that and you'll have yourself a touring rig.
>>970530
And of course optionally a dynamo front hub
>>68707427
The bike had a previous owner, yes. There is though a size of the bottom bracket engraved on the fixed cup, so it must be the original size, im kind of confused because i can't find the information about this problem.
>>970126
it's less about performance and more about awkwardnes...
I'm weirdly awkward around "grown ups".
I know how stupid this is.
>>970149
maybe you ride a bike with a more aggressiv steering angle.
when I used to switch between my fixie with a ha of something like 74 and my mtb with a ha of 70 I used to think the bearing of the headset are toast.
when switched back after a while I felt like I couldn't right stright because everything was so jiggly.
whats ab good cheap bike lock.
I don't keep the bike out much but my old one just seized.
is there really a difference between a lock and a good lock.
shouldn't I just get two cheap U locks
>>970684
>is there really a difference between a lock and a good lock
Yes, considerable difference. Mostly in the calibre of tool needed to cut them, cheap ones can be hacksawed or cut with bolt cutters you can fit under a jacket.
Good ones need huge bolt cutters you can't easily hide and take a while to cut anyway, or they need an angle grinder.
>shouldn't I just get two cheap U locks
Thieves need new bikes too I guess.
>>970735
I just think , why would anybody go trough the hassel of braking two locks when there are plenty of bikes with just one
>>970736
Lock selection is somewhat about deciding what kind of thief you're facing and how good your bike is.
A junkie with wire cutters is defeated by any ulock that they can't pry out with a loose sign pole.
A junkie with 24" bolt cutters is defeated by a high grade ulock.
A thief with 42" bolt cutters or an angle grinder is defeated by security guards, maybe
How do I make this bike gear ? I'm from India , so it is hard to find parts . I want to see my family dehli long journey to take the bike . It is a long road with a backpack in the water and plenty of food could be better ? I like a lot of money , but a lot of bike for your health
>>970746
Poo in the fucking loo Pajeet
>>970746
>for your health
Its dead, Jim
can I still use this crank even thought it is bent? I think the bike was in a crash
>>970802
try harder !
What's the best MTB triple for the money?
I'm looking for something with a 22t granny
Right now I'm thinking Deore but would go Acera shit tier or "truvativ" shit tier if they are a better deal imho
>>970802
kill yourself 0/10
Can anyone help me to compare the geometries of these two bikes? My LBS is getting me the bottom frame-only and I would actually like to get an even lower position on the new one, but based on the length of the headtube and such it looks like I'd need a -25° stem to do so; does that seem right? Stem on my current bike is -6°, slammed.
Current: http://www.marinbikes.com/us/bikes/description/2015-cortina-t3-cx-pro
New: http://www.bianchicanada.com/bikes/road/endurance-racing/intrepida-tiagra/
>>970808
Are you running 7 speed or a road cassette? If not you don't need a triple. Do you have a specific bottom bracket you want to use? If not get anything from Shimano that's Hollowtech II, either hunt Ebay for a good deal or save up a bit. There are also some other brands that use the same bottom bracket (FSA MegaExo. Gravity, and some Race Face. I think Truvativ GXP may also be compatible, if not it's still two piece so all good as long as it fits your frame).
>>970818
My thoughts align with yours: The bottom frame with have a taller headtube. While they don't give stack measurements, it's not likely that a bike with a 10 mm longer headtube would have a shorter stack.
Notice (if you haven't already) that the bottom frame is advertised as "endurance geometry." That means that getting low is not something that frame was designed for.
>>970808
I got an alivio triple for my commuter, no complaints.
>>970818
Just the frame or the fork as well? Comparing the 54cm frames (as that's the only common size other than 60cm) there's 25mm difference in HT length, however the Bianchi looks to have quite a bit shorter fork (compare the distance from the rim to the bottom of the headtube) which would make sense with the Marin being able to have larger tyres.
The SSH (slammed stem height) would probably work out fairly similar between the two, possibly even a tiny bit lower on the Bianchi.
>>970865
Neither manufacturer lists the axle to crown length of the fork, however Bianchi gives the vertical distance from the BB to the top of the head tube. I'm assuming you own the Marin so with some measuring and calculations you could compare that to the Bianchi quite easily.
>>970870
Oh, interesting. I just measured and it looks like that distance on the Marin is about 616mm (I don't have a level handy so I had to eyeball it a little) so that means the Bianchi is actually lower...
>>970883
You measured from ground to floor and then took away the floor to BB height, right? Also I'm guessing you're looking at the 60cm, with the Bianchi being 613mm?
The Bianchi has 3mm more BB drop so the distance from the BB to the top of the head tube should be close to identical, the Bianchi is just lower to the ground, so it will technically be lower with a slammed stem but won't feel like it.
>>970893
I measured from the center of the BB to the height of the top of the TT, making sure it was as close to plumb as possible without a level.
>>970893
More maths attached. I measured the fork length on the Marin and calculated it for the Bianchi, though I'm not sure how to calculate the rake on the Bianchi... Hopefully it is somewhat close.
>>970897
You mean HT? That's going to be very hard to get a precise measurement, not only will you have the vertical variance but you've also got to measure horizontally level with the top of the headtube that's like half a metre away.
>>970902
I'm guessing you did some trig to work out the fork length? I was never very good with shit like that. Bianchi give the front axle to BB distance so you could work out the rake from that.
There's probably a program or site out there where you can plug in some variables and it'll give you all the other angles and measurements. Also I suppose that Bianchi diagram on the geometry page may actually be to scale (just compare the known measurements) so you could measure the unknowns on that.
>>970905
>HT
Sorry, yeah. Hm, doing it your way I come up with 565mm.
>trig
Correct, though I just used an online triangle calculator... I'm a little too far out of high school to do it on my own...
Gah, may just have to order the frame and see how they stack up side-by-side.
Not sure if this is more appropriate for the bike buying general but would anyone help me identify this Peugot?
https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/bik/5605405914.html
Plus it looks a bit worse for ware
>>970905
Just found this, results attached...
http://www.bikegeo.net/
Look semi-accurate?
>>970939
There's a couple things off. You need to use the effective TT length, not the actual (effective being if it had a horizontal TT which that program assumes) so the Marin would be 545mm for the 54 size and the Bianchi 550mm for the 54 size.
>>970942
Yeah, sorry, just figured that out myself. Attached.
>>970943
That looks better proportioned. So, it looks like the Bianchi should be a fair bit lower.
That's a neat little site, plugged in my flat bar road bike ("hybrid") for fun as a little comparison. Guessed at the fork length as I can't remember it exactly but it's around 40cm.
>>970951
It's super neat. If we ever get a sticky, it should go in.
>>970954
If you happen to be into mountain bikes too Linkage is also great program. You don't need to know the geometry as you can just trace over a photo, not super accurate but you can tweak it if you do know the specs as well.
Comes in handy for when you can't find specs on a frame, getting info that no manufacturer lists, and seeing how variables affect other things (e.g. head tube under different sag amounts front and rear, shock compression curves and how it varies with different mounting locations, rear wheel travel path, wheel base change due to suspension compression, etc.).
So what happens when I get a proper hole in a tubeless tire?
>>970958
You can patch certain holes that are too big for the sealant to seal. Holes that are too big for that mean you need a new tyre, just like if you were running tubes.
>>970961
>just like if you were running tubes.
Verify? I'm on my way to get tubeless in like a week. Are they really really for sure as strong? Cause you could have a pretty decent hole in your tire and a tube would still be able to keep the tire inflated.
>>970966
Well sure, you could carry on using a tyre with a huge gash in it with the tube poking out but you'd be an absolute idiot.
>>970966
>Cause you could have a pretty decent hole in your tire and a tube would still be able to keep the tire inflated
But you would replace the tire to avoid putting new punctures in the tube.
>>970972
i gas so
How does tange infinity rank up against Columbus and Reynolds tubing ?
>>971034
>seamed gaspipe
>>970802
that looks baller like one step beyond biopace in conceptualness
>>971034
Let me guess, you bought a charge plug?
It's variously labeled as double butted and seamless in current literature, but older literature calls it seamed and straight gauge
The possibilities are that they use "infinity" to describe different products over the years, or, someone at charge bikes is blatantly lying. That seems unlikely, but you never know
>>971034
>How does tange infinity rank up against Columbus and Reynolds tubing ?
Columbus and Reynolds make a range of tubing with different qualities
Tange Infinity is their lower-end. It's still good. "Infinity is a double butted tube set that is formed and welded (seamed) rather than drawn (seamless)"
http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage-bicycles-what-s-worth-appraisals-inquiries/678596-how-good-tange-crmo.html
Tange Prestige and Champion are a step up.
>>971036
>>seamed gaspipe
Ignore this rudeposter. Seamed vs Seamless is stupid. Reynolds 953 is seamed. What do you think of that rudeposter?
>>971036
>calling ANYTHING by Tange "gaspipe"
your shitposting is putrid, senpai
>>969388
I'm going to test ride this bike tomorrow. It's been up for over a month, so I'm thinking I could get him to drop it at least $50, if not $100.
Assuming everything is in good shape, would this be a decent entry into mtb?
http://boulder.craigslist.org/bik/5582124568.html
>>971044
well then i guess it be shit
use ishiwata/kaisei seamless or columbus imo
tange prestige is cool if and only if you can pronounce tange correctly because if you don't the ancient japanese god of tubes gets mad and your tubes fail explosively
I'm thinking about getting a garmin esge 520 to record my ride and get live information like my speed, distance, elevation and heart rate etc. Is it a good idea? What other options do I have for the same price? My cheap Chinese bike computer keeps not working after a bump knocks the sensors. I'd also like to be able to use the garmin to record runs even though it's technical a bicycle computer, I should be able to run with it?
>>971188
I have a fitbit surge that does all of that. They're pretty expensive in store, but you can find them on ebay for a pretty good price
>>971188
I have the 800 and I hardly ever use the GPS. I wish I stuck with a cheap cateye wireless. You can get a refurb 800 for about $150. You can run with it but you'll have to change settings so it doesn't harass you every time you stop.
>>971034
op here. I bought a shogun katana at a garage sale and restored it. I really like it and seems reasonably light. Was just curious. Pic related
what on earth is the deal with 22mm quill stems? I know its old tech, but it is almost impossible to find a serviceable one new, especially a non-adjustable 4-bolt one
>>971202
Ah yeah they're cheaper and more suited to running than an edge 520 but they aren't as feature full for cycling. Maybe I'll have to get a cycling gps for cycling and a wrist watch for running. But it's hard to decide.
>>971205
It's hard to compare the 520 and 800. I'll have to think on it. I like the live strava segment features of the 520.
>>971225
>serviceable one new
er... wut? If it's new then how could it be unserviceable? 22mm is the french size right? I think it's outright impossible to find a new one. Don't be a lazy cunt with a 4 bolt stem, quills are a cult, and we don't take kindly to more than one bolt.
You can just take off 2mm from any standard quill with sandpaper. Standard quills are 22.2mm.
Is there a component to link multiple brake levers to one cable? I'm not talk both front and rear to one brake lever, but two different brake levers for one (in this case the front) brake.
>>971210
Lovely
>>971305
You can get interrupter levers (sometimes called cross levers) but it has to be placed before the other lever at the end of the cable. Also they're made to fit the flat section of drop bars so the diameter might not be right for whatever it is you want to do.
Also you can get splitters but I have no idea where you'd go looking for one. You may also have luck with a lower gyro cable (depending on what length you need), just cut the balls off the ends that split into two and replace them with a clamp on barrel that'll fit in a normal brake lever.
How do I judge a bike shop? I have one nearby but I feel uncomfortable every time I go there. I'm not sure if I should look somewhere else or if it's just me being anxious for no reason.
Has anyone ever converted a mountain bike to some kind of gravely dropbar mtb? I have an old scott hardtail frame at my old home and I wanted to put it back together and I was thinking of putting dropbars on it.
>>971346
You can put drop bars on anything but a crowded movie theater
>>970147
Check to make sure that the headset bearings are all clean and also that the handlebars and front wheel are aligned and everything is straight. I had this issue on my bike for a while and it felt really twitchy/pulling but I cleaned it out and straightened everything up and it was fine after that
>>971346
You can but the frame geo is designed for flats so it might feel slightly weird. If you want to do it, go for it. Drop bar mtbs are cool.
>>971337
Go in and find out if the employees there are faggots or bros.
>>971305
You could have a front disc brake and front rim brake as long as the fork and wheel are designed for both and have one lever for each. If your concern is a lever failing, then you also have backup for a brake failing or a cable failing.
>inb4 you do this then pull both hard as fuck at the same time and go otb
>>970958
Spin the tire fast for a few minutes. Sometimes the sealant will fix it. Even if it's too big of a hole to be fixed immediately by sealant, sometimes spinning it for a few minutes will work. Otherwise as the other guy said, time for a new tire.
>>970808
>Shimano mtb components
Into the trash it goes!
SRAM master race.
>>970802
Sure you can but it won't work very well.
>>970684
>good cheap
Nope
>>971305
http://problemsolversbike.com/products/cable_doubler
thee are other options, but this one looks rather clean
>>971337
There are only four kinds of shops:
1. Chain bike shops with massive sales floors - these tend to have large numbers of polite staff but can feel less personable, a good place for beginners since they have lots of bikes to try.
2. Independent LBS - these tend to be smaller, often focus on 1-2 kinds of riding, and make a smaller share of their income from new bike sales. Quality is less predictable and depends on who's working when you visit.
3. Speciality/boutique shops dedicated to specific riding disciplines, usually sell the most expensive products. Great if you've got the funds and are looking for the kinds of bikes they sell/work on, otherwise you can expect snobbery.
4. Co-ops/charitable/community bike shops - inexpensive shops that help out disadvantaged populations, a good place to meet people with hearts of gold or learn new skills by volunteering your time, or get a very inexpensive but basic bike - but definitely not the place to take your race bike for service.
>>971346
Drop bar mountain bikes are cool, but you should know that it can be complicated to make one work well: MTB and road geometry are different enough that drop bar mountain bikes often require a very tall/long stem and/or a frame that's larger than you'd want for typical MTB use. And putting drops on a MTB can lead to shift/brake lever compatibility issues, depending on what parts you want to use - as a rule, older mountain bikes are easier to put drop bars on.
>>970369
>It is obvious that you are really well read on bicycle wrenching, but you don't seem to have much actual wrenching experience.
Personally, I'm there right now. Wanted to get hired by a bike shop but no one will hire me unless I've worked at a bike shop before. A catch-22 that has proven impossible to defeat so far. How do I get hired for bike work if I haven't already been hired at another joint? I've got great mechanical aptitude and have read up a bunch.
>>971366
Do it out of your basement
>>971366
I work at a bike shop and I got hired right away at the first shop I applied to. I told them that I had experience working on my own bikes, that may have helped.
>>971346
>Has anyone ever converted a mountain bike to some kind of gravely dropbar mtb? I have an old scott hardtail frame at my old home and I wanted to put it back together and I was thinking of putting dropbars on it.
You need to see this thread for inspiration.
http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/828426-show-your-vintage-mtb-drop-bar-conversions.html
pic related is my absolute favorite
I'd suggest using road levers with mini-v brakes, so you get easier setup+better stopping than cantilever, plus they're compatible with standard short-pull road levers
>>971431
>I'd suggest using road levers with mini-v brakes, so you get easier setup+better stopping than cantilever, plus they're compatible with standard short-pull road levers
But if you want to go big-money, do standard V-brakes with Tektro long pull levers. The levers are $35 so if you already have V-brakes on the Scott then you're all good
I have this set up on my 700c touring bike and the braking is great
>>971366
I got hired at the first bike shop I applied to with no professional mechanic experience. Happened to take a job doing photo retouching before I even started at the bike shop making 3x more money but that's a different story.
Maybe you just need to be more likeable?
Do I need to angle my bar ends up higher? Sorry for the not so great pic it's all I have right now.
>>971435
>i faked my way into jobs I didn't know how to do so had to switch jobs all the time as soon as I got found out
Tell me again why you left your glorious high pay photo job, faggot.
>>971512
I want your bike.
I keep seeing it and I want it.
do with those barends whatever you want, that bike is hot.
How tall of a quill stem would I need to get the height of pic related? Also, how dangerous is it to put a quill stem “not quite” to its minimum insertion line? By like 0.5cm.
>>971512
There's no right or wrong way to have them.
Try tilting them up and riding to see if it's more or less comfortable for you.
Now some setups I have to wonder how they can possibly be comfortable---pic related.
>>971566
It's generally ok to exceed it a bit. Just peer inside and make sure your head tube isn't too far off from the top of your headset. The insertion line should really match the head tube not the top ring of the headset.
Ideally you'd just ride a larger frame with only a fistfull of seatpost. If you want the bars above the seat maybe you could try gitting gud.
Nitto technomic, tallux & dirt drop are all tall.
How tall would you need to get some random arbitrary height sighted off a photo? I'm not sure. Maybe if you measured how high you actually fucking want it, you could check that against real quill stems which all list their heights.
are there any advantages that a singlespeed bikes has other than the gears not breaking
>>971606
Lighter and cheaper, better looking in some people's opinion.
>>971606
>are there any advantages that a singlespeed bikes has other than the gears not breaking
http://sheldonbrown.com/singlespeed.html
>>971606
Sheldon wrote a few words on this subject.
http://sheldonbrown.com/singlespeed.html
>>971571
Rudeposter.
I'm building up a bike from new+old parts and trying to find a stem with a reasonable height so I can adjust it to what I find comfortable (which I don't know yet). I have unusually long legs so short of having a frame custom built it would be almost impossible to find the combination of tall head tube and short top tube I need. So I bought a frame with a slightly-too-short head/seat tube because that's easier to compensate for than a too-long top tube.
Regarding the photo, imagine that's at exactly the minimum insertion marker—what approximate height do you think it might be?
Nitto has excessive boutique/hipster tax but if they're the only ones to do vaguely decent tall-ish stems then so be it.
>>971548
Worded that incorrectly. I took the photo job just as the bike shop was hiring me. I'm still doing the photo job 6 years later.
>>971633
>Nitto has excessive boutique/hipster tax
Nah brah, that is only true if you are buying from Rivendell or if you are buying NJS stuff. Technomic and Tallux are all pretty reasonably priced on FleaBay. I picked up a mighty nice Technomic from my local bike co-op for ten bucks. The deals are out there.
>>970746
i wouldn't ride that at all, dude. not being elitist, that bike might actually get you seriously injured if any of the stress points are corroded. mid-ride component failure can get you killed if it happens on a high-traffic road or if you have a serious injury in the middle of nowhere on your long trip.
Would you say this could fit a 6'0" person with a leg length of 32" ? What size does it look to be, the seller has no details in the ad.
>>971688
>6"
>32" inseam
pathetic
I'm 5'7 and have the same inseam as you leglet
>>971688
Nope, it's at least a 60cm frame, definitely too big.
I have crudely photoshopped the pic of this bike to the configuration I plan on building it up with... Does the setback seatpost look dumb? I like the Thomson but I wish they didn't do a setback by just bending the post in the middle... What thinks ye, /n/?
>>971728
That fit in general looks dumb.
>>971728
The stem isn't properly aligned with the steerer. U less you jnow for certain what that angle is and you found a stem that will offset it so that it's parallel with the ground.
It's impossible to tell you how the fit will be since we know nothing about your measurements, but my personal opinion is that compact frames be uggos.
>>971735
You look dumb.
>>971740
I'm aware. It's a crude photoshop. I'm gonna get a Ritchey -17deg stem so it will align fine. I'm also not worried about the fit in general, juuuust the seatpost.
And as far as compact frames are concerned, not much choice... I'm limited by the brands my shop carries, and the frames I can afford within that.
>>971744
It would definitely look less awkward if the stem was parallel with the top tube but that would definitely affect the fit. If you're going by your local bike shop, you should get a proper fitting.
>>971619
>thanks guys, do you know any comprehensible tutorials for singlespeed conversions or a place where people post their projects?
There are a lot of tutorials.
What bike are you converting? The main questions are the hub and the rear dropouts
If you have an old style bike with a thread-on freewheel, just read the sheldon site's guide to fixed gear conversions
If it is a newer bike, with a cassette hub and vertical dropouts, you'll need a ss conversion kit and some sort of chain tensioner
If you are lucky, your modern frame might have a magic gear ratio that will allow you to run SS without a chain tensioner. Google "Fixmeup"
You'll want about 70 gear inches if you are hitting some hills on a road SS
SS conversion kits can be found on ebay for $15 from asia
An old rear derailleur can be a fine chain tensioner if you are poor
>>971633
>I have unusually long legs so short of having a frame custom built it would be almost impossible to find the combination of tall head tube and short top tube I need.
I have this same problem. 6'5 but I ride 58cm. When you jack up the seatpost it sucks because you lose even more top tube
A lot of my bikes have had straight seatposts and stubby stems to make up for it. Also, gross number of headset spacers. I'll never be able to slam my stem unless they start making 58cm tt, 64cm st frames
>>971633
Flip your stem, or run an adapter with a flipped stem. A +17 vs a -6 stem gets you ~40mm of stack. That's a couple of frame sizes right there.
So I fucked up and bought a bike before learning a single thing about bikes and i'm learning that my first bike purchase wasn't a good one i'm currently saving up for a better one but is there anything I could change to make this bike better or should I just keep saving for a new one
>>971786
forgot image i'm retarded
>>971788
You could buy clipless pedals and try to figure out what saddle works for you, since those can be transferred to your next bike. You could also get better tires because that's an upgrade for any bike, and if you only wear them down half way, again you can transfer to your new bike.
>>971789
that's actually the exact type of thing I was thinking stuff I can just move over to another bike
>>971728
It looks fine.
Can someone identify these gloves?
What's the deal with compact frames? I like the look of horizontal tubes, but it seems most pros use compact now, so it's gotta be better right?
>>970165
No, thats fine.
>>970147
check if seatposttube and headtubelet are perfectly parallel, check if wheelaxes are perfectly parallel.
>>970270
how much is your body weight? how much is your bicycle weight? do you like your work?
>>971815
Compact frames use less material, making them lighter and cheaper to produce than a frame with horizontal tubes, plus the compact shape produces a lower standover that's desirable for mountain bike frames and small size road frames. Nearly all lightweight bicycle frames were made with horizontal top tubes until the 1980's when TIG welding became commonplace because until then most frames were joined using lugs, and the lugs readily available to builders/factories were designed around standardized angles.
>>971800
Why not email GCN and ask Matt since he's the one in the video and presumably the owner?
>>971788
I agree with the previous anon - better tires would be the first thing I'd upgrade. After that, I'd consider stronger wheels or bar-end shifters, but only if you can find such things used and cheap - buying new ones will cost enough that you're better off saving for a better bike. Also, go ahead and invest in a good saddle if you find your current one uncomfortable, a good saddle that fits you can always be transferred to a future bike.
>>971788
You could cover up the Schwinn logos.
Is a 56 cm road bike frame size too big for someone who is 5'9? I am aware that my ideal size is about 54 cm but am curious to know
>>971887
yes
>>971887
no
>>971887
way too big
how many miles is too many for a secondhand name-brand carbon fiber road bike frame, no matter how good of a deal it is or how intact ( free of abrasions, dings, scuffs or cracks) it is?
>>971887
Depends on geometry of the frame and your body. I'm 5'9 and my Miyata is a 56cm but it fits more like a 55cm.
![Fizik-Aliante-VSX-Kium-saddle[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/KF5hNhI.jpg "Fizik-Aliante-VSX-Kium-saddle[1].jpg")
How do I level a saddle with a non-flat face?
Do I measure from where my bones sit to the tip of the saddle, from the highest point (sides) to tip, or lowest point (center) to tip?
>>971936
Yes
![i4T0z70[1].png](https://i.imgur.com/iqXkeK6.png "i4T0z70[1].png")
>>971952
xd
I went on my first long (for me) bike ride yesterday (25 miles) on my new touring bike. About halfway through the ride, my hands started feeling like they were falling asleep. I kept re-positioning them on the handlebars, but they continued to fall asleep no matter where I moved them. Would gloves help alleviate this problem? Or will my hands just get used to it over time? Also, my ass got pretty sore as well. This was only the third time ever that I had ridden my new bike, and the first few times were only 10-20 minute rides. If it doesn't start feeling comfortable after a month or so, is that a sign to get a different one? How long does it generally take to break in a new saddle?
>>971962
The first week or so of riding has me sore, it takes a bit of time for your body to get acclimated
As for your hands that's probably a fit problem, either seat angle or reach
>>971962
1. The hand issue is almost certainly because your bars are too low/forward for your present level of strength and flexibility.
2. Ass is trickier since there are many possible causes for a new rider - sort out your reach to the bars first, then go for a few more rides and see if gains in strength/flexibility make the problem go away. Assuming that you're still in discomfort after that, the problem will most likely be the wrong saddle size/shape for your body and the way you ride.
>>971964
>>971965
My frame is 55 inches, and I'm 6 feet tall. When I bought the bike, I told the guy at the shop that it felt a little small after a test ride, and he just recommended getting the handlebars raised, which I did. Maybe buying this bike was a bad choice and a bigger frame would be better for me. Could that be part of the problem with my hands? About a month and a half ago, I started a workout routine where I'm doing push ups and pull ups followed by stretches for the lower back. If I continue this routine, would that maybe help the hand problem as well?
>>971967
Fuck I meant 55 cm not inches.
What the hell burgers. What the hell.
>>971969
/r/shittyaskscience
/r/me_irl
/r/kenm
> 4chan desu
So I'm looking at getting clipless pedals for my first upgrade of a road bike. If I'm using it for training/long rides as well as commuting and generally dicking around town, is it completely retarded to get MTB pedals? The outer supports would let me ride with normal shoes as well as cleats, and I can't imagine the weight difference is significant. Will I look (more) retarded?
Hey guys, I'm a sedentary piece of shit and I was thinking about biking each day to get more active and just to do something. Should I do research and buy a bike or can I just use the old one my parents have? It has gears and seems to work fine. Thanks
>>972039
>Should I do research and buy a bike
yes
>can I just use the old one my parents have
yes. i'm sure if you ask nicely your parents will let you use it.
to be less facetious; if you have access to a working bike then great, go ride it. no rush buying a new one. but do research in the mean time as well, so you're not completely clueless when the time for a new bike comes.
Can I simply take a 1" steerer threaded fork, stick a star nut inside it and clamp a 1" threadless stem around it and have it work?
>>972035
It's not retarded at all. I only use MTB clipless and I ride mostly road. Been doing so for 10 years. I like being able to walk around comfortably in my bike shoes.
>>972046
If the steerer is long enough then it could theoretically work. I don't know if a 1 1/8 star nut would fit so you might need to get a 1 inch one. One thing that may be a problem is if you tighten the stem too tight and crush the steerer, they're not designed to take a compression force and having threads cut into it also makes it weaker.
