Does /g/ like network cameras?
You gonna buy flash suppressors for those cameras as well?
How about mobile network cameras? Creep on that girl from a mile away. Literally.
Mk 2 Mod 0 Camera Parts (100-300 yards):
- Foscam FI8905W network camera $85
- Optional Foscam 1.5mm power extension cord $4 (if you don’t want to wreck the factory cord)
- Standard USB cable $2 (attempt to find one 26 gauge or larger/rated for 2 Amps)
- CNet CQR-980 mini router $20-40 (I can't find them anymore, See * for alternatives)
- Maxboost 2-Port 15,000mAh Backup Battery Pack $35 (any similar pack with two 1A+ USB ports and 7000mAh or greater is fine)
- +7dB or greater wifi antenna $15 (I used a TP-LINK +9dB directional antenna, omnidirectional limits range but will work)
- Sunpak 5200D tripod $5 (probably a good idea to find something more sturdy)
- Home Depot or Walmart ~22" tool box $6 (Find a cheap toolbox or container that will fit the tripod's length. You're on your own for foam/packing)
Mk 2 Mod 0 Total: $172
Mk 2 Mod 1 Camera Enhancements (300-1,500 yards):
- Rosewill SA-1000 wireless signal booster $25-75 (any booster that runs on 5v and 2A or less is fine, I used a 2000mW ching chong wifi booster for $29)
- Additional Battery Pack for booster $14 (2A USB port and 7,000mAh or greater is fine)
- Optional 2 Amp Micro-USB AC charger for batteries $3 (can use as low as 0.5A but charging takes a long time)
Mk 2 Mod 1 Total: $218
>>47362161
Oh, it's you again. You are my favorite may may.
>>47362195
kek'd
>>47362197
>Foscam
That screams of vulnerabilities.
Mk 2 Mod 0 Setup:
- Cut and remove the camera's power adapter or sever the optional extension cable and properly connect and insulate the leads to the 5v power pin-outs of a USB plug (Foscam plug core positive, plug barrel negative. USB Pin 1 positive, Pin 4 ground. Red to red, black to black or white. Web search this and triple verify polarity from the assembled USB plug to the Foscam plug! Then verify polarity twice more!)
- Charge the battery(s)
- Attach the antenna to the tool box, or mount it functionally as you desire. Connect the antenna to the router
- Over ethernet, configure the router with desired security level
- Disconnect ethernet and verify the router's wireless network by logging in to it with a mobile device (you can test working range at this point if you like)
- Configure the camera according to it's packaged instructions (use simple login info. Also configure the camera over and for ethernet use, don’t use it’s wireless connection)
- Connect camera to router via ethernet
- Install a network camera app; I use Netcamviewer on iOS because it's free, find something similar on other OSs
- Arrange the router, camera, battery, tripod, cables and antenna functionally in your case, pad with foam if desired
- When it comes time to use, plug the router's power into the battery first, wait for it to initialize, then plug in the camera's power, connect your mobile device to the network, and you should see the camera in your camera app
- Point the camera at your target and retreat to fapping distance
Mk 2 Mod 1 Additional Setup:
- Cut and remove booster’s power adapter and splice the leads into another USB plug’s 5v pin-out (again attempt to find 2 Amp cable)
- Connect the powered booster in between the router and the high gain antenna
- Do not power up booster without first attaching antenna and router
- Plug in booster power after plugging in router
>>47362219
Use ethernet to connect it to the router. The wireless connection from router to wireless device can be as secure as you want. Your security comes from the wireless connection.
That should be all there is to it. Temporary applications might include remote monitoring of building entrances, parking lots or hazardous environments. Use a pan and tilt camera for added utility if needed. Batteries can be substituted for AC adapters where more permanency is required. Signal boosters and antennas are flexible; tailor application needs by increasing or decreasing broadcast strength.
I’m not going to list specific ranges for these setups because it’s very dependent on hardware and location, but there is a huge gulf between the un-boosted Mod 0 and boosted Mod 1 setups. I personally get 100 yards on an unboosted Mod 0 and the farthest I've been able to test the Mod 1 is 650 yards.
Here are some things you can do to increase range for both setups:
- Use a directional antenna instead of omnidirectional
- More antenna decibels puts more of the booster to use (to a point, don’t exceed your booster’s gain)
- Use the systems clear of overhead and underground wires
- View with a laptop instead of smartphone
- Use a boosted external USB wifi adapter on the laptop (cheaper and easier than...)
- Build a battery powered signal repeater to use at the bench (this is Bullseye’s Signal Extender)
*Alternative mini routers:
Sapido Pocket N+ (clone of CNet, there are others too)
Or web search "mini usb pocket wifi router.” You must ensure that it is powered by USB and has an external antenna that can be replaced by a larger antenna or booster. A LAN (as opposed to WAN) ethernet port is also helpful to bypass the secondary camera-to-router wireless connection.
Have fun with it.
>>47362197
Why use that particular Foscam and not something cheaper?
>>47362161
I do. I prefer to have multiple cameras outside my house, and no webcam/mic on my desk.
>>47362871
I only picked that one because it's what Bullseye uses. Any IP camera with a usable resolution will work, it doesn't need to be outdoor-proof.
>frequent /p/
>recognise burt
What the fuck burt
