>>996345
First use an ohm meter if you have one to make sure the problem is actually in the switch, or if it could be on the connector or something.
If there is corrosion inside the switches, that could be preventing them from making contact.
Those switches snap open, you can see the clips on the side. You could very carefully pry those clips apart, lift off the cover (there will be a spring so be careful not to lose it) and you can see the contacts and see if they're corroded.
If you don't want to take the switch apart, you could spray some Deoxit in the switch and hope for the best.

>>996345
Also check motor. And limit switches, if they exist.

>>996539
Yeah, testing it with a multimeter is going to be my first step after finding out that a replacement is going to coat $80-$100.

>>996568
Accessing anything under the seat would be difficult because the seat is currently stopped over the rear two mounting bolts. I want to rule out the switch first.

don't forget a junkyard will have the part for a lot less than 80

>>996711
I've considered that, but it seems that most people are going to want to sell the entire seat as a whole unit.

>>996539
I don't know how or why, but after I took the switches apart and reassembled them (did not see any issues), it started working. Maybe I fixed the switch or maybe the motor was just jammed and I cycled it enough to unstick it. Either way, thanks for the help.

>>996740
go to a diy style junkyard.

See if there is a u pull it or a pick a part in your area. There's an entrance fee ($1 at my local one) and generally an "environment" fee when you buy something. It's flat rate based on what you buy and you go pull the part you need. I've gotten door switch panels that cost $80 on ebay for $2. Places like this are perfect for odd interior pieces since most people are there for axles, transmissions, engines, and body parts.