![GoPro-Stair-Brackets-Exterior-Stairs[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/fx5nnWi.jpg "GoPro-Stair-Brackets-Exterior-Stairs[1].jpg")
Our house insurance dinged us for not having an exterior stairs on a porch door that is locked and barricaded. Apparently this isn't enough for them, so they're cancelling the policy on 17 March.
The foundation is cement skimcoat over cinder blocks. Building the actual stairs is easy, but what's the best way to attach them to the foundation wall? Google searches are bringing up wildly contradicting information.
>>986703
I leave the bottom of my stringer like this. Then just drive it into the ground.
>>986703
Mine just lay on the brick. I used 5 nails per riser, there's 3. You can't pull it up.
You could make a set of stairs that a lot of trailers have.
Usually Fiberglass steps. And are typically not required to be anchored. They sit under their own weight.
http://countrylanehomes.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Steps-Side-Approach.jpg
>>986703
I have had good luck drilling and epoxying bolts/threaded rod into concrete. It's incredibly easy, you just need a masonry bit, some epoxy, and a caulk gun
I personally wouldn't bolt anything into my foundation make it freestanding 4x4s with 4 concrete feet and put bolts in the wet concrete and then use post brackets and never have to worry about your shit stairs fucking up your more expensive house and end up with stronger stairs you could also do a floating front edge if you use pressure treated lumber
>>986703
Your stairs should be attach to the house at rim joist height, meaning there should be wood there. but if it's actually cider block, you want to build a free standing unit, as cinder block is hollow and doesn't take well to fasteners.
>>986716
Or you can just use concrete anchors?
>>986703
Drill and bolt the cunt on there. Something like this would be good but longer
>>986703
I don't know about that, but you should make a very artistic staircase. As fancy as you can.
Since it's a useless staircase, it might as well look good.
>>986703
Replace door with window, block in and insulate area below, add siding.
>>986712
>not required to be anchored
Where I'm at, if you want to anchor the deck to the building, you'd need to pull a permit. If that same deck is just sitting there (granted, a small enough deck you didn't set a post), free floating, it's just any old wood to the city.
>>988986
I'm all for this idea, if it is a door that is always locked and barricaded anyway, just replace with a window or rip the door out and frame in the hole. Matching siding and patching drywall might be a pain in the ass though, so I could see you wanting to avoid that.
If you can mount a ledger board high enough under the door to be able to get some lag bolts into the house's mudsill, rimboard or even into the end of the joists thats your best bet. Cinder blocks are a pain in the ass to anchor anything to if the cores aren't grouted solid, which is normally the case for any blocks above grade and not used for courses of vertical rebar. Wedge anchors and sleeve anchors for concrete work great in a solid foundation because they have something for the bolt to wedge the sleeve against and hold, a short enough anchor may have enough to lock against the wall of a cinderblock.I've used wedge anchors on structural clay tile for a ledger on a room addition before and had a maybe 60% of them lock, just fill the shit with epoxy before setting the anchors and tightening them down and it should hold enough to support a set of stairs. I would avoid using Tapcons as I just overall hate using them, and any kind of powder fastener (Ramset anchors) will just destroy the cinderblock and structural clay tile and not hold.
