Old thread >>963452
>open source community
http://reprap.org/
http://forums.reprap.org/
>buyfag buyers guide
https://www.3dhubs.com/best-3d-printer-guide
Any number of Reprap kits out there
>basic 3d printing FAQs
https://opendesignengine.net/projects/vg3dp/wiki (lots of useful stuff)
http://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/wiki/index
>what kind of filament do I want
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/28-material-guide
http://www.matterhackers.com/3d-printer-filament-compare
>why do my prints look like shit, visual troubleshooting
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide
>how to calibrate
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/30-getting-better-prints
https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer
http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter's_Calibration_Guide
http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_Wb0i0-Qvo
>where do I get files to print?
https://www.yeggi.com/
https://www.youmagine.com/
http://www.thingiverse.com/
https://www.myminifactory.com/
>what programs do you make your own files with
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing
http://www.openscad.org/
http://www.freecadweb.org/
https://www.blender.org/
https://www.onshape.com/
https://www.tinkercad.com/
http://www.123dapp.com/
>where to buy genuine hotends
http://www.filastruder.com/collections/e3d-hotends (USA E3D reseller)
http://e3d-online.com/ (E3Ds regular site, yuro based)
http://hotends.com/ (genuine J-Head seller)
https://www.printedsolid.com/shop/printer-parts/hexagon/ (hexagon)
https://www.b3innovations.com/ (pico)
http://www.dta-labs.com/products/prometheus-v2 (prometheus)
https://www.lulzbot.com/catalog/budaschnozzle-20 (budaschnozzle)
>where to buy filament
http://pushplastic.com/
http://www.jet-filament.com/
http://www.makergeeks.com/
http://www.reprap.cc/
>>980845
Im trying to use my prusa i3 to print a quadcopter:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:511668
or at least as big as that, the problem is that althought the bed is in ,theory 200x200mm it actually is more like 190x190 but not from the bed itself but the Y belt.
So even if I download the sorter version I still need like those 10 mm in the Y axis to print it.
I thought about taking out a little the rods of the Y axis but that would mean a lot of adjustments later and if I don't do it carefully I might break or deform something.
The other idea I had is to change the Y-belt clamp to one more compact, but I don't know if such thing would actually give me the small extra distance I need.
So... any ideas?
>>980903
i would suggest against printing a quad frame
the first time you'll crash it will disintegrate, and you will crash it since its a 200 sized quad
you'd be better off buying a $15 frame off HK
>>981045
but one of the points of 3d printing is about replication and redundancy, right? I mean, if it breaks I don't have to wait to some chinese sweatshop to make it for me, I could even carry spare parts that extend beyond some screws and batteries...
If I rely on online shops, whats the point then?
And anyway, I'm still losing 10 mm, this can actually be more important than a quadcopter since what is actually happening is that I can print all the designs that assume that I have a commercial-like 3d printer with exactly 200x200mm.
you can print it every time it breaks, but do you really want to print a new frame after each flying session?
also, my i3 does 190x190 as well, but sometimes you can get away with printing a part diagonally or printing the model in halfs and then gluing them back together with CA ( the bond sometimes comes out stronger than the part itself)
>>981051
> model in halfs
I tried this but the program only cuts the model in the Z axis(slic3r), is there any other program that lets me make the cut in any other axis?
>>981053
You can get around that by rotating the model to stand vertically, and then cut on Z axis using slic3r.
>>981054
thats...
...
making me look stupid.
THANKS!
>>980845
Couldn't find this thread, it shoud have "3d printing" somewhere on the OP
>>981465
boards.4chan.org/diy/3dp
>>980845
Is this your picture? Have you figured out what was wrong and do you have any successful prints?
>>981771
Useful when you already know about it
Hey anons, best 3D modeling program to learn that will allow me to model stuff for prosthetic manufacturing but isn't over the top impossible to learn?
A friend told me to try 123D. Good stuff? I don't want to invest hours in learning a program that reinvented the wheel. Basically going to be majoring in med tech at Uni so before I go back as a "freshman" I want to start picking up skills for this now.
Thanks in advance. Currently looking to buy the B9 Creator or a DeltaWASP. Need precision above all else, but build volume as the next biggest thing. Might just go with the B9 and make the frame for the prothesis out of aluminum.
>http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/351571656744
>I have no idea what I'm doing
>>982083
blender
>>982086
Im confused
>>982083
blender for curvy bits, solidworks for moving bits
>>982092
it's assembled wrong
>>982095
But how is it supposed to be assembled?
Are you really supposed to attach the heat brake to the nozzle with just 1 or 2 threads with that thin nut?
>>982101
Tube with thread is in the wrong hole. It is supposed to go through threaded hole on heater block. It meets with the nozzle on the middle of the heater block, I guess. You secure it against the block with one nut and the other nut is for securing it to cold end, I guess.
I have no Idea what Hex key is for.
>>982056
>when you already know about it
If you don't know about a thread existing, you're probably going to find it in the catalog. The catalog also has a search function specifically for this - which shows the thread as a result...
http://boards.4chan.org/diy/3dprinting
I'm not sure what point you're trying to make. That your browser's builtin search function doesn't find the OP...?
>>982118
3dprinting=/=3d printing
Are you retarded or something?
>>982107
Hex key is going to be for a set screw to keep the heater cartridge into the block.
>>982121
Are you trying to play Devil's Advocate or something? AFAIK multiple search terms aren't supported if you input them directly to the address bar; they work in the Catalog Search and a non-spaced word works in the address search, so what is your problem?
I just got some prusa with hotbed, will assemble it with my brother on sunday :)
>>982136
Nice. Model name/pic/link? Sounds like a fun weekend project.
>>982151
You may see it as a bit expensive, it's some young Spanish brand with great support and such. pack comes with 2kg of filament (picked white ABS and PLA) and some spray.
https://www.leon-3d.es/producto/pack-2-legio-3d/
>>982183
Thanks, I'm a perfectionist, so it shouldn't be an issue.
>>981896
That was my first run with bronzefill filament. The material is a bit trickier to print than PLA and ABS, but I got quite nice prints after changing the nozzle to a hardened steel one(the brass one got fucked while printing carbonfill). Also the calibration was a bit off.
>>982211
how heavy is it?
>>982212
80% bronze
20% PLA
It is heavy compared to other materials. Polishing the surface gives a metal looking shine, but I haven't really found anything useful appliances for this stuff as I mainly deal with prototyping and PLA/ABS/NYLON is the way to go there if you are going cheap and use FDM.
>>982219
Damn, I guess you need a steel nozzle for that much bronze, where did you get it?
>>982212
I must add that I recommend testing the carbonfill filament if you have a stainless/hardened nozzle.
>>982222
I shoul get a steel one for those exotic materials, what results do you get?
>>982221
http://e3d-online.com/is-carbon-killing-your-nozzle
The left is what happens when one prints abrasive materials with a brass nozzle. I bought mine from e3d, but there might be american alternatives also.
>>982225
Some people say that the steel nozzles behave differently (heat spreading and emission) but I've just changed to using the hardened one all the time and I haven't seen any negative sides yet. At least these hole diameters are closer to the promised value than in the chinkshit I used before.
>>982229
Nice, thanks, I'll have to check if the diameters and lengths are the same, so I can change them without recalibration.
What about the carbonfill, how different is it from PLA or ABS?
>>982232
> I can change them without recalibration.
Just calibrate it. That should be done in 3 minutes, unless you have as retarded z-endstop positioning as I do.
Carbonfill prints surprisingly well and it is very stiff. Sticks too well to the glass so remember to use glue so you don't have to break the glass in order to remove the print.
>>982236
Thanks, how resistant is it?
>>982227
Filsastruder is the American reseller of E3D stuff
>>982237
It is tougher than other printing materials you've seen.
>>982245
>Does the steel nozzle give less detailed prints with "regular" materials?
I haven't noticed any difference. It gives better prints than my old chinese nozzle. The overall print quality is almost on par with the Ultimaker 2+, but I'm going way slower.
>>980845
Peachy Printer Don't Buy Edition?
>>982410
What on Earth is that?
>>982474
The Peachy Printer
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6T81zxlHgY
>>982410
I'd rather get that than a XYZjewing
>>982410
I can second that.
I'm not a big fan of the OLO as well, but at least their prints don't look that shitty.
>>982410
It should be the
"the Tiko STILL hasnt shipped, and is STILL having quality control problems on tons of parts. Cant successfully build 100 test machines, even though they have to ship out over 16,000 production machines" edition.
Tiko right now
Has anyone used buildTak print surface? How many prints does it last for?
Post good tools for STL manipulation please.
I got a hollow modell and want to push the hole you see all the way trough without having to completely remesh the entire model.
Also something that can close the tiny gaps you see in the picture would be nice.
>>982410
Jesus, that thing looks like a stiff breeze would disintegrate it.
Anyone know a good rule of thumb ratio for acetone to ABS to make print bed coating?
Have a precision scale if need be, but can't seem to find much info outside of 'dont do too much or too little'.
Thinking about swapping to a glass bed and using that. Currently using a gluestick, which works, but getting the glue residue off the print is sometimes hopeless. And sometimes the corners still lift up on larger parts.
>>983033
Import into freecad
Convert to solid
Make cylinder of same size
Boolean cut
Guys this is what happens when you use a top-mount sit-on spool holder and you are near the end of the spool
Jesus the ground plasticey bits flew into my face when I blew out the cold end
>>983405
Maybe try one of those water-soluble gluesticks? I just wash my prints, no problem.
>>983405
I used to have my acetone and abs mix premade, but then I just started pouring a little acetone on the bed and rubbing in a solid piece of abs, something flat. Just a little bit comes off, like soap. Works great for me, just be sure the acetone evaporates before heating the bed.
>>983033
>>983469
I actually got what I wanted with multiple intersecting models. Any FDM-slicer would probably shit itself trying to slice this but creation workshop suprisingly was fine with it.
>>983470
>a top-mount sit-on spool holder
a what?
>>983471
Well its washable elmers purple ones, for the most part it washes off. Its just some gets stuck in the ridges depending on the model.
>>983474
Glass or non-glass bed? I've not installed the glass one yet. Bit worried I'll fuck it up and send the hotend into the glass if the offset doesn't work right.
>>982410
Is.... is that fucking muscle wire?
>>982136 >>982153 here, I guess I could post the finished printer, took about 5 hours, later today we'll calibrate it and all that buzz.
>>983957
should i buy a m3d or build a reprap?
I am new to 3d printing, but have experience as a manual machinist and a cnc operator and programmer.
Mostly looking for a toy, and maybe print a few bits for my 40k spess muhreens.
>>984004
I'd build one, there's a lot of cheap kits you can upgrade over time if you want to, and it's very fun to build.
I've ordered a TAZ and some accesories 1½ weeks ago, which were supposed to be sent with the same postal company in two seperate parcels.
I've received the accesories parcel, but the 3D printer parcel itself is completely untrackable and the postal company basically doesn't acknowledge the existance of the parcel.
I've tried calling two times and the guy in the sales dept. keeps saying he'll look into it. He's a cool guy and I'm sure it's not his fault, but how do I speed up the process of receiving the parcel without being rude and demanding to the sales guy (which probably wouldn't speed up this process either)?
I don't want to be the annoying customer, but I sure don't want to wait ages to receive it.
>>983940
no.
>>984004
i'm debating that aswell, but i'd say build because it looks way more fun. Gonna go check the local e-waste management plants on my city tomorrow and go looking for a decent source of stepper motors, been thinking for a while that I want to fuck around this whole new area, and thought it was about time after coming across the work of a a guy who is doing printers for schools. (thing:1429273 on thingiverse) want to adapt it to have a smaller footprint tho.
What acceleration settings are you guys using? My i3 is at the default, and it works fine, but sometimes it seems like its going to shake the house apart.
Also, a print just stopped about 3/4 of the way through for some reason. Wasn't watching it at the time, but it seemed like the head had actually descended and melted its way into the print after it stopped. Any idea as to why this happened?
>>984379
I have an i3 too, and what seemed to help best is lowering my XY jerk down to 10. I still run my acceleration at the default of 3000 though and done seem to have any problems. The default jerk of 15mm/s seems to be high.
As for the print failing, are you printing over USB? If so, check your cable--when I first started printing some of my prints would abort and stop mid-print. Switching to a USB cable that had the ferrite filters/chokes on either end fixed the problem. I had forgotten about this problem until I switched to printing exclusively with a RPi and OctoPrint until it again aborted prints. Then I remembered and switched out the USB cable, and problem gone.
I doubt that the print head actually lowered after aborting the print; maybe the glob of filament you see is from oozing plastic that built up?
>>984392
I was printing from the SD card, which is the weird thing. Nothing on the display either, which is also odd, because the one time that a motor overheated it clearly stated that until I pulled the plug. And you're probably right about the head being stuck. Upon further review it looks like it just melted the surrounding plastic with the ambient heat and further extrusion.
>>984396
Check your connections, maybe it lost power for a second
>>984396
Maybe it had something to do with the hysteresis or thermal protection values in firmware--are your bed or hotend exposed to air currents? There may have been some temperature fluctuations that Marlin interpreted as a potentially dangerous malfunction and forced a shutdown.
Also, you could check to see if you have endstops disabled during printing. When I first began printing I didn't have the disabled during printing and would occasionally bump an endstop causing a print to abort.
>>984704
Dont think it was either of those. The printer is in a room about the size of a walk in closet with no air vents, and the part isn't big enough for the carriage to go anywhere near the endstops. It just died right in the middle of the thing. Very odd.
Just printed these with my XYZ Da Vinci Pro yesterday using the XYZ ABS filament. I wanted to use up the current filament roll so I could get another and print something big.
They came out pretty well though it Lenin wasn't adhering so well to the bed. I probably need to replace the tape or relevel the bed (in order to relevel the bed I need to clean off that sensor thing with rubbing alcohol).
Anyways, so what non-PLA filament should I get next?
>>984805
>XYZ anything
>printing communist garbage
Get your shit together, pal.
>>984805
I sincerely hope you printed those out only so you could melt them back down.
>>984901
I actually need to find an Engels and a Marx .stl so any help would be appreciated
>>984805
>Commie goons
>proprietary filament
It's like pottery
>>984805
>so what non-PLA filament should I get next?
>XYZ
Guys, guys, I don't think he knows.
>>985140
its an XYZ Da Vinci PRO which can use third party filaments with the addition of a filament spool holder
Thinking about getting a Rostock Max. Anyone have one? If so what do you think?
I also wanted to get some replacement parts so it can run for half a year to a year of frequent use. What parts might need replacement? Also, what are some recommended upgrades?
>>985251
I do and I recommend it if you plan on investing long term. if your more the fly by night hobby type then I would go with the usual i3. I wanted to go all in and the rmax was my first. it takes a while to really get it dialed in, especially if your the perfectionist type. ask any questions you want
![dwarvenspider00_fixed_preview_featured[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/wgGx9yQ.jpg "dwarvenspider00_fixed_preview_featured[1].jpg")
Trying to print pic related, from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:850180
Let's see how Simplify supports work
>>985782
Tested the tip wihout any supports, came out fine.
Piece is about 70mm tall.
About 12 hours into printing a wearable ODST helmet. Probably another 30 to go, at least. Not counting the sanding, welding and spraypainting, plus forming lexan for the lens. Thank christ Im getting payed for this.
>>985791
Two halves? Sounds like a huge thing.
>>985797
Its enormous. And because of many things, from the general low quality of my machine to the fact that we lose power here all the time, I have it split into about 16 pieces to minimize failures. On the plus side, it took an actual 7.62 round to break a failed piece, so it should be a great paintball helmet.
>>985799
ABS, I guess, how much infill?
>>985806
25%. Layer height is at .15 for most of it. The UNSC apparently loves tiny little overhangs. Relatively thin plate contact area, so I gotta leave the bed on the whole time to prevent warping, and sometimes use the raft final solution so it doesn't lose adhesion.
>>985809
Make sure to post some pics when it's finished, I'm intrigued now.
>>985810
Its gonna be a while. Leaving for a week, then its back to 12 hour print days. I hear stepper motors and flexing acrylic in my dreams. Then Ill have to clean everything up, weld the pieces together, maybe see if I can sink in some steel pins and rare earth magnets for taking it on and off. Then Ill hand it off to my buddy who's real good with the Lexan to do the visor.
>>985813
Wow, what a project, I bet some blogs notice it.
>>985838
Eh, lots of people make Halo helmets. Wont stand out too much.
Welp, I'm sure I'll break some parts by taking out the supports, but it's my first print :)
Anyone here worked with the GP3D root? I work at an electronics store that sells 3d printers, and that is the only model that pays any commission, so I want to know more about it to try and make literally any money
>>985782
>>985788
>>985885
Messed up the scale and made it about 25% smaller than intended so it lost detail and became fragile. I also used too much support, so I ended up breaking a couple legs, fixed them with cyanoacrylate, not too bad for my very first print!
>>986387
>>985813
Bruh, are you me?
I've been building I3s for my company on my printer nonstop and I've broken 1000 printing hours in 2 months. Print during the day the small stuff, and print 12 hour parts overnight.
Alright guys, talk to me about PMMA. How good is it its bridging? Fan or no fan?
>>986651
I cant do overnights, because my printer is occupying a large portion of my desk and the incessant noise would make it impossible to sleep. The sound of silence when its finally done for the day is so sweet.
>>987292
Plus, ABS fumes are mildly toxic as well.
>>987352
That could explain my degrading sense of touch...
Well /diy/ my printer's heating block shit the bed and the replacement doesnt work. I'd love my printer if its USA support wasnt such SHIT
>>987354
I've heard good things about E3D.
>>987361
Its an Up Plus 2. Great printer and super easy to work with, but holy fuck if you live in the states, NEVER buy one. There is zero support here. I had to pay $10 to make an international call to the Australian HQ
>>984022
wait a couple more days and call again? I've had untrackable packages before (received most of em), but bottom line is that you paid money for something you didn't receive, and you can bother em until you get what you ordered.
I'm like you--don't like to annoy people that much, especially people where it isn't their fault, but you do want what you ordered. Unless you really /need/ the printer ASAP, I'd just consistently call em every couple of days.
Good luck.
>>987547
Sellers have started printing off labels to get tracking numbers for packages they haven't shipped yet. Amazon, PayPal etc have gotten so bad they don't really care. If you make a stink they'll give you your money back but no one else sells what you want to buy.
It's out of stock and they don't want to tell op because it's going to be another month or something.
>>987548
Thanks, I'm seeing how to extract models with poses with 3D Ripper DX.
Might help if I ask here but would anyone here know the cause for
>>>/3/521486
>>>/3/521487
Its my first time modeling something for myself and kinda disappointed it wont load into cura properly.
>>987862
What program did you use for modeling? My guess is that is not manifold. look at this:
http://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/repairing-models
http://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/fixing-non-manifold-models
http://www.instructables.com/id/Non-manifolds-Your-Worst-3D-Printing-Nightmare/?ALLSTEPS
>>987862
Open it in Netfabb
Auto fix
...
Profit
I think you got some flipped normals.
I am sure some of You have upgraded to E3D v6. How is it? Did you have any problems? I am looking for 24V Bowden 3mm. Have anybody tried stainless steel or hardened nozzle?
For those who are from EU: Did you buy it directly from E3D or did you buy it from some other store where it might me cheaper or with free shipping or something?
>>988037
i have Lite 6. works ok the fan is rubbish though. Using their standard brass nozzle and they are very good quality. Bough directly from them . Got a small pack of haribo's every time I bought something from them.
Hey /diy/ I have a shitty old fishing line printrbot and I'm trying to upgrade it to a timing belt.However, the only way to do so that I've found is with 3D printed parts. Any advice on keeping the fishing line taunt and unfrayed long enough to print.
>>988060
>tfw I pirated sketchup despite being a student and thus getting free Autodesk everything and now learning to CAD for realsies is way harder than it needs to be
>>988037
I have run a full E3D V6 for over a year now. Im still using the stock .4 nozzle on it. Been working perfectly fine.
Though it is a 12v and it is 1.75.
Ive had no problems with it. I have heard people who didnt follow the "preheat the block before torquing the nozzle" instructions where it would leak and burn filament on the outside of the nozzle.
I had an issue where I had forgot to reinstall my cooling fan (active cooling is a must with full metal e3d). The heat creeped up the hotend, got so hot it melted my bowden mount on the carriage (was PLA)
Honestly, I would have been perfectly happy with the Lite 6 as I only do PLA and light ABS but it didnt exist at the time when I bought it.
Still a great hotend
>>988050
What exactly is wrong?
Do you not want to buy new fishing line and trying to use old stuff, or are you having other issues with the line?
>>988050
also I think the rack upgrade is pretty sweet
>>988166
noice
>>988050
>all that mass on the Y(?)-carriage
Are cantilever printers actually any good? They're among the minority, from what I've seen, but PrintrBot likes to use them a lot apparently.
>>988189
Honestly, from what I have seen its just a design choice because of raw materials.
The PrintrBot was built to be cheap, it was in the 250$ range when I3 kits were still 500$.
Then the obvious progression they started upgrading the wooden printer raising the price up for those kits, and realized they had a market for a higher end metal one. So the Simple Metal is just an evolution of the wood one but they couldnt change it up too much.
When you are in the 5-600 dollar range, you are better off with a different printer design. Which is why Printrbot was the only one who did them, and is also moving away from them at the same time
>>985791
you should make a cast or mold of that shit and sell them. People will eat that shit up. You know there's a market as you're already being paid. Just gotta tap into that market somehow.
>>988216
Ide buy one
>>988050
What exactly is the problem with fishing line? If it is sliding on a pulley, then you have to ether increase number of loops around pulley or increase tension force. If it is not sliding on pulley, then there shouldn't be much wear of fishing line.
Link related: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capstan_equation
actually I was thinking about making my own sort of scrap-rap 3d printer. I wanted to use fishing line (or metal wire) for cheap replacement for belts (core x-y style). So if you have any other information about problems with fishing line, please respond.
>>988361
They are wrapped around a dremel sanding drum to drive it. It was a bad design, but it was cheap.
>>988364
>>988365
im not sure what the later models came with, I am also not the guy who is upgrading his printer. I just built one of these with a friend a couple years ago and it had the drum.
>>988364
>cheap
I get the appeal, but honestly, cheap printers will suck all the fun out of 3DP. I got the PrintrBot LC as a christmas gift, and I was super excited to start printing; building it was kind of a pain in the ass, because nobody had a full build guide. The ones I did find were pretty shit, and usually there was a line about how "Oh, I forgot to do this one thing, you have to disassemble half the printer to fit it in though". Calibrating it was a nightmare as well, and when I got super-shitty prints after weeks of tinkering with it, I just got fed up and stopped using it.
Then, I got an i3 (from Prusa himself), and in the span of a week, I HAPPILY printed more stuff with it than I did with the PrintrBot in its whole usage period.
Anyone have opinions on the upcoming glowforge laser cutter?
>>988534
>glowforge laser cutter?
For $2500, I can buy a more powerful chinese one on alibaba
>>988553
Do you hate small business anon?
>>988554
I hate crowdfunding and have absolutely no faith in it at all.
I dont hate small business either, but dollar for dollar you have to decide if you are going to pay for pure power and functionality or you are going to pay for a nice looking case with built in cameras and some ultra user friendly GUI.
Its not marketed to me, its marketed to the Etsy crowd who had never thought of buying a laser cutter.
Quick question: I have some warping with ABS, so I will try ABS slurry/juice. Should I apply it on cold bed, and then heat it up or should I preheat the bed and then apply ABS juice?
>>988851
Lay it on cold
In my experience, depending on how much you put on, it'll bubble up on a hot bed
>>988868
Thanks. I did lay it down on cold bed, but I guess I didn't wait long enough, so it made some little bubbles here and there when I heated it up. But it was good anyway. No warpage and it was easy to remove (bubbles might have helped).
>>988216
Ill have to look into that. I know that I'd be able to sell a bunch up here, as I live in a university town that thrives off impulse purchases. Fallout helmets would go like hotcakes.
Only problem is I have zero experience casting resin.
Im a gigantic fucking idiot and installed windows 10. Cura refuses to slice now. Just says that it will take 0 minutes to finish. Wat do?
>>989488
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-10/going-back-to-windows-7-or-windows-81
>>988165
bought it used for half the new price, fishing line wore out and I can't find the new stuff for a decent price. I want to print out the rack upgrade but I'm having issues keeping the knots taught enough for decent quality prints.
Somethings all fucked up. Machine heats up to the right temperatures, but instead of saying "Printing..." like usual, it just has the file name, and a slowly ticking timer, and zero movement aside from that.
Does anyone have experience with a .8mm nozzle? I am tempted to buy one to get quicker prints, as I am stuck with a .2mm nozzle right now.
Me and my buddy were thinking about getting a prusa i3 kit to play with.
I don't mind tinkering to get good results, in fact, I prefer having the ability to tinker and it be more open. I've got a background in electronics and machining.
Any recommendations on a good kit that isn't total shit out of the box?
Got roughly $500 usd.
I don't mind getting upgrades, just need a good platform to start off with.
>>989871
Honestly, I'd recommend Josef Prusa's i3. He's the one who developed that model, and while is ~$100 more expensive, I'd consider it a solid investment. I've had zero problems with it so far and it works flawlessly once you have it set up.
>>989864
That's a huge difference, maybe a 0.5?
>>989871
https://folgertech.com/products/folger-tech-reprap-2020-prusa-i3-full-aluminum-3d-printer-kit
Upgrading to a e3d extruder and openslot rails will make this about $150 more expensive but as good as a printer of this caliber gets, though neither change should be necessary
Is it possible to use grayscale as a method of extrusion?
I would think it possible in some program out there if you prep a sketch, as long as you only want something simple.
>>989921
You mean using grayscale pictures as a heightmap for a model? Since in that case you could just use it as an actual heightmap, turn it into a 3D model, then print that model
>>989925
Basically if I were to draw say an icon in photoshop and shade it. Then using the shading have it extrude based on gray level.
For example if I shaded a circle dark at the edges and light at the middle it would produce a half sphere. I would imagine there may be something out there to do this maybe crossing into the realm of routing a bit if nothing else.
>>989928
You just use it as a heightmap to turn it into a 3D model. Whatever modeling program you use, Blender, Max or such, google "[program name] how to make heightmap", then use your drawing. It will turn the picture into a 3D model that looks like what you want it to look like (might need a few adjustments though), then you print that model as you would any normal 3D model. There are also some scripts that turn the picture into a 3D model directly, never used them though. But yeah, what you want to do is called a heightmap, so search for that.
>>989879
Filastruder doesn't sell .5mm nozzles, and I would rather not pay for shipping/wait to order straight from E3D.
>>989921
You can import jpg directly into Cura, and it'll convert it to a grayscale file. From there you're prompted with some settings, like what you'd like to be high and low heights.
But I'd only recommend it to very specific things, like a phisical data graph of a very high resolution image for a lithophane
>>989935
>physical graph or pic for lithophane
Sry
>>989864
Be careful with your layer times and add a layer timer if your part doesn't cool down fast enough.
>>989932
Cool thanks. Still learning the programs, bit new still. Was recommended Solidworks in another thread so I'm sure it could do it.
>>989935
I'll check into that thank you. Just after simple stuff nothing complex Just a little wall art and I intend to simplify anything with some smoothing beforehand.
>>989876
Thanks. I'm really considering one of those now.
It's a little more than I want as far as initial cost, but it looks well supported and kinda eliminates a lot of the other problems i would have to upgrade on other models.
Plus it looks cool.
>>989897
I've actually heard quite a few people complain about those in the machining department where I go to school. No idea if their complaints are valid, they very well could just be retarded.
>>989864
I've used every nozzle size from .2 to 1.2mm on the volcano
From my experience, smaller nozzles look a lot better, but tend to jam and take forever. In addition, the pressure is just so high the .2 will destroy themselves after only a few prints. The smallest nozzle I use on a regular basis is a .3 because they last fairly long and are better than .4s in terms of quality.
.8 and above have another problem: the filament laid down gets in the way of the nozzle, and the nozzle cant "cut through it" fast enough, and the carriage gets knocked out of place, resulting in skipped layers. they are good for big square parts, but butcher curves.
My go-to nozzle size is 0.6mm it doesn't fail parts like the .8s, and still fulfill my millennial need for instant gratification.
>>990235
If I got it right, you need to decrease your flow with the bigger nozzles. I had the same problem with a smartrap: the nozzle would print a higher than expected layer and at some point the increase in height from the stepper couldn't keep up with it. So the nozzle dragging would cause the head to miss steps and skip the layer a few cm off
>>990393
I'll try it.
>>990235
If you have a printer with 2 heads, does software allow one to print the detail and the other to infill?
>>990235
I was looking at those. Will invest in a genuine .6mm nozzle then. I have had too many jams with my .2mm nozzle, and I am not interested in detail as I am not picasso, just a humble engineer trying to test out parts.
>>990489
Not that I have found.
Since layer heights must be the same, you need to drop the layer height of the larger one down to <.1, so you just defeated the purpose entirely.
I hate to ask as far into this as I am already, but do I need to design my parts using a hollowing option in the design program like Solidworks or will a slicer hollow out the part a bit to save on material and time on its own?
I feel really bad asking that, but I've only printed small things where I wouldn't have noticed the difference. But I have no designed an assembly with several parts that gets rather large. I thought that is what the Infill setting does, but I'm not entirely sure.
>>991299
Depends.
For FDM you don't need to since infill density is set in the slicer.
For SLA it makes sense, but can also be done after you exported your stl-file.
>>990489
I have achieved this on some models, the Flashforge Creator 2 (dual) and Makerbot Replicator 2X which it is based on, using stock and custom firmware
If you are creating your gcode with slic3r ,replicatorg, many of the python software, it is relatively simple to do or at least quickly add the necessary tool changes.
As long as your machine calibrates head positions in hardware or firmware this is not a difficult edit to make to your file
(1/2)
>>991306
(2/2)
usually in your g-code generator you could put in some manual code at certain points, e.g. when entering infill and support and bridges and exfil and perimeter..."gcode verbosity" or "custom gcode" in the options panel...
I know in slic3r + replicatorg (for editing) I was able to do it with only a couple find-replace in the file, then send directly to the printer, even with stock firmwares it would work alright
>>990198
>I've actually heard quite a few people complain about those in the machining department where I go to school.
Probably complaining about the acrylic folgertechs, which are hugely popular. Acrylic isnt the best choice for a printer.
http://www.makerfarm.com/index.php/3d-printer-kits/pegasus-8-kit.html
Is that worth it with a e3d-v6 upgrade
and metal motor mount upgrades?
I was going to get a original prusa i3, but its more than $700 after shipping
>>991324
DESU, the original prusa i3 is not worth the money. Many reworks have substantial improvements and part selections over the original.
I personally own an i3 rework by Roaddog Labs I got for $350 and a bit. Since then, I've upgraded with a P3Steel frame and e3d v6. It is more of a barebones/exposed kit (no PSU mounting, electronics box, filament holder) but I'm still satisfied with it.
>>991327
Yeah I'm leaning more towards the pegasus or something now, the more I think about it.
I can sometimes get scrap aluminum extrusion at work, so I could have a chance at building off of it in the future.
I really want something to learn 3d printing on, but also want something to tinker with and make better/ more awesome.
I'm sure a lot of the kits out there are fine, I just want to get something more sturdy for my piece of mind really.
I don't mind doing the psu mounting, electronics enclosures, holders myself... It would be fun.
I'll give a few more days to look around and pull the trigger on one this weekend.
>>991303
Not familiar with FDM. My files are STL. So I should do it in slicer with infill or using a shell tool to hollow it would be better?
Sorry just getting ready for my first major design.
>>991324
It comes with an E3D lite 6 on it already, no need to move to an all metal.
Its a pretty good kit, and Makerfarm is a really good company in terms of support.
>>991337
FDM is the method of printing whereby a nozzle scoots around your print bed, squeezing out a little snail trail of plastic as it goes.
Why do 3D printers use belts to drive the arms instead of a screw thread?
>>991467
Price and convince
Cheap threads can give you lots of slop and can wear down over time. Or at least on cnc machines, im assuming 3d printers would have it too, just not on the same scale.
You could totally do a printer with some nice threaded rods or the like, nothing stopping you.
>>991445
FDM and SLA are two of many printing methods.
STL is a file format. If you wanna know what is what you can google them if you ad 3d printing to your search term.
>>991477
Would threaded rod be more accurate and require less calibration?
>>991528
Potentially more precise, if you get the good stuff. Hardware store threaded rod might be way out of spec. I can't imagine how it would need a different amount of calibration, though.
>>991528
It's loud as fuck, and for 3d printing purposes the gt2 belts are way more than accurate enough.
It's not really a popular mod
>>991493
Oh I knew what they were, but the context confused me. Had me thinking FDM was a format since it got compared to STL.
Going to try a 1/3rd scale of my design to start though just to make sure it all works. Its about a 14-15 part print so shits gonna be awhile. Maybe I should stop being cheap and get Simplifiy 3D, but so far Slic3r works okay.
>>991528
only if they're strait. Good quality strait threaded rods can be expensive. Also I suspect for X/Y axis the rods because they need to lay horizontally it may sag or bend naturally over time. Not 100% sure on that though.
>>991685
I was compareing FDM and SLA. STL-files can be used for both processes.
I cant recomend Simplify. I got it and still end up using Slic3r most of the time
And for your original question. No you dont need to holow your modells. The infill percentage option in both Slicers mentioned is ment for that.
>>991730
Oh sorry I just read it wrong then. Well that saves me 140 bucks then because I find Slic3r to be great, but a lot seemed to praise Simplify.
And thank you I thought that is what Infill did, but with a big print coming up I was having my doubts. I like learning for myself, but it tends to leave gaps in the knowledge.
THIS IS THE END PEACHY PRINTER DEAD
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Wy3zA3LxG4
>>991745
It's over
www.peachyprinter.com
gg no re
>>984877
>Not making candles in order to make the house smell like Revolution Rose
>>991745
>a house kills peachy printer.
This is why you need to watch your business partners.
>>991745
a thousand keks
>>991758
Leadscrews are great.... if they are machined well and have appropriate matching taps.
They're great but you really have to design around them.
They're great, but it's kinda overkill.
Using cheap threaded rods, or cheap leadscrews won't have as tight a fit.
>lewdscrew
Okay. That made me laugh.
>>991745
Wow!
I actually believed in Ryan. I was wrong.
>>991779
From what I can dig up, Rylan didn't screw up; Dave embezzled the money to speed up the renovations to his house, and intended to Morgage it to reclaim the money, but shit hit the fan and none of the money was reclaimed.
I really respect Rylan for having the balls to do damage control instead of just disappearing.
>>991745
>that grave tone and black background
>peachy dead
The only thing that surprises me, is how long it took them to crash and burn. They held out longer that I thought they would.
Hell they say on the site that they were gonna Have to redesign it to meet laser classification laws. It was fucked from the beginning
Now just waiting for the Tiko shitstorm. They seemingly will never ship, and if somehow they do it will be a printer that barely works. It will be glorious
Have to wonder if PayPal knew about peachy, they did literally just update their crowd funding policies.
>>991801
I don't get it. Why can't they get the money back out of the house? Either mortgage or sell the thing.
>>991862
Because it was a scam from the beginning
>>991745
Why are people so fucking stupid?
Ignore all the embezzled money and shit, look at his fucking graphs for how he spent the rest of it, 70% on fucking expenses and shit? Not even 5% on materials?
Then he says we took a pay cut and moved to a smaller premises? He should have done that from the fucking start! If he isn't turning a profit you don't pay yourself with investors money.
What the fuck does he need a commercial premises for don't his parents have a fucking garage?????
Jesus fuck get some turnover before you blow your investments
>>991876
>If he isn't turning a profit you don't pay yourself with investors money.
It is normal that startups aren't making enough profit to finance their operation (which includes salaries) during the first 2-3 years and that investor money is used to cover that phase. Also, it isn't surprising that a company revolving around r&d spends relatively little on materials.
>>991808
Lol. Their website is the same.
I wonder if this actually changed anything except hastened the failure.
>>991745
Did anyone here back peachy?
>>991940
Why would anyone put money in kickstarter?
http://www.bbc.com/news/technology-36271249
>>991940
I did, then I realized what I'd done and got a refund after a couple of days.
The table my printer is on shakes when it's running. I'm wondering would that increase or decrease accuracy of prints? Intuition tells me you want to lock down your printer as much as possible so it doesn't move for maximum accuracy but on the other hand the table is acting as a shock absorber for the print head as it zooms across the printer. I'm puzzled.
>>992081
that would, invariably, decrease the accuracy of your prints.
>>992081
Kinda
I have an i3 and originally used really weak springs holding the build plate on.
When I mounted the printer on a very solid table using clamps, I noticed the build plate at high speeds was moving around a lot making prints fail.
So in essence the TV tray I was originally using did in fact absorb the forces better.
With that said once I correctly locked down my y axis and upgraded making the whole printer rigid, being locked to a solid desk made an absolute improvement. It's why rigidity in your printer is so vital, if not you are stuck at really low speeds
>>991922
The category for r and d was about the same size as the materials category.
He said him and his brother took a pay cut to keep it going. If you aren't turning over profit it's pretty stupid to pay yourself more than the minimum you need to live on. I just think its dishonest.
All this peachy talk made me go check up on the Tiko
They are having issues with the bowden tubes popping out and posted this pic.
They really did cheap the fuck out, they are flaring the fucking tubing instead of using couplers
Also I really like how their extruder literally crushes and deforms the filament.
This thing is held together with band aids and bubble gum
Anyone ever change the 3M blue sheet on a Creator Pro?
Was going glass bed on it, but I have to get that off first. I've heard if you preheat the bed it peals off easily, but that also seems like a good way to end up burned.
>>992144
aren't they trying to patent their extruder or hot end?
>>992232
I really feel like I should build a unibody printer with just a printed frame and LM10UUOPs. It wouldn't last 20 minutes, but I really just want them to know I am using their idea to get them to move faster.
>>992232
>hot end
READ THE ORIGINAL PATENTS, ITS ACTUALLY CALLED A LIQUIFIER
I thought they were trying to patent some sort of rail system, but nonetheless they bragged about their army of lawyers on one hand, while utilizing open source designs on the other.
>>992199
You arent going to get burnt, its hot but not dangerously hot as long as you dont preheat it to something stupid hot
If you are real scared, use a hair dryer
So I just tried out Simplify3d slicer and it's really good. The tool paths it makes seem to be very good, better than cura or slic3r for the short time I've used it.
It apparently does support generation better than any other slicer but I haven't tried it yet.
It's worth trying it
>google "simplify3d 3.0.2 reddit" and you may just find a direct zippy link
>>992143
You mean r&d tools? That's a rather different matter.
At $0.6M funding (haha) it isn't that unreasonable that even the CEO makes more than a burger flipper at nearby McDonalds. And even if it is, expecting the other employees to be happy with minimum wage is silly.
Well, it looks like they had more fundamental problems than just money. I don't know if full budget (and slave work) would have allowed them to finally deliver, but it certainly looks like the original $50k plan was doomed to fail from the very beginning.
>>991685
You can get simplify for free, you know, for testing purposes...
>>992301
What was he renting a building for doesn't he have a garage?
>>980845
If I wanted to get into making my own drones what plastics would I want? PLA, ABS, Nylon, and carbon?
Ill probably be making the frame from some light metal with the printed parts connecting them.
>>992554
Also anyone recommend the difference between a cube of triangular prism style printer? The prism seems lighter and faster which I assume is good for printer and laser.
>>992555
cartesian printers have uniform resolution, while delta robot printers have higher resolution in the middle and lower resolution toward the edges of the print volume. Delta robot printers generally have taller printable volumes, but there's not really a reason a cartesian printer couldn't print something tall.
>>992558
>delta robot printers have higher resolution in the middle and lower resolution toward the edges of the print volume
whoops, got this exactly opposite of correct. The center is lowest-res in the x-y plane.
>>992560
>>992558
Those theoretical resolution changes are micro and much much too small to actually see a difference in print quality.
Are you just regurgitating what you read on the reddit 3d printing board without actually looking at and understanding the kinematics of the printer?
They have a hardon to hate on any delta printer, didnt think that cancer would have come over here too.
>>992555
Deltas are much lighter and faster pound for pound, and will put out the same working accuracy and resolution as any cube printer.
We are talking like 100 microns here, that is nothing in terms of actual accuracy. This isnt a CNC, they are machines made of plastic and threaded rods.
The big problem is the learning curve for 3d printing is steep. Tuning for both of them is completely different, so if you start with one you will have to relearn everything you know for the other one.
Be weary because it causes a lot of bias when someone picked one side.
Especially when you listen to a place like reddits board who has shills running around modding, and sponsors who sell kits.
>>992336
I don't see any download option for it. Just a promise to refund if you don't like it.
>>992713
He meant pirate it.
It's got terrible DRM on it, no way they are going to let you try it out
They stopped having a demo after the first couple updates
Just ordered a Makerfarm Pegasus 10.
Here's hoping the build and everything goes okay.
>>992735
You'll be fine if you take your time making sure things are square when putting it together.
If you half ass the assembly (which is easy to just slap together) it's going to make your life a lot more difficult.
>>992743
I'll be anal retentive about the assembly, don't worry.
I'd like to get a few spools of cheap filament to experiment and learn with. Mostly PLA or ABS to get started.
Any suggestions? Or will any old brand do?
>>992748
I use Push Plastic myself. USA made free shipping, I think it's all 2 day shipping too.its also on prime on Amazon.
I had some real issues with eBay filament, the quality varies a ton with some import stuff.
Though Hatchbox brand import stuff is supposedly good, it's only a few dollars cheaper than push
>>992751
Push plastic PLA was tested as one of the weakest brands
>>992773
Who and where?
They are an extremely popular brand, and have great customer service if you do have a problem with a roll of their filament.
Their black friday deals every year are great.
>>992555
There is one realy vocal guy on here who takes any ocasion to needlessly shit on deltas. They are superior to rectangle-printers in any way but he just continues to fling shit and never manages to make one solid point.
>>992554
ABS. PLA is much too fragile, nylon I have no experience with, and carbon seems to me to be too new to have good results with.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2DVt-k_CU8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRYNP1-Y4No
So It seems I can 3D print a metal mold for that small injection mold machine.
Both cost around 3k.
I want to make plastic garbage to scam weebs at conventions and plastic shit to sell to kids and some small operations making custom figurines.
It's this a good investment?
It's less than 3k.
>>993142
You cant directly print an injection molding die. It'll look like dog shit.
You need to print and clean a plastic model and use lost casting to create an aluminium die.
If you want a proper die, you'll need it CNC'd and probably need to talk to a consultant to get it optimized for injection molding.
>>993151
any cheap alternative for cheap production of plastic crap?
>>993153
lost casting and injection molding is pretty cheap
you can diy a cheap injection molding machine, it's just a vice, a plunger, a nozzle, and a heating element
>>993154
yeah, but you just told me a 3D printed mold will be crap.
:(
>>993153
Consider ordering from China. You'll get the most quality for your dollar out of there since they steal molds and dies and have cheap labor.
weeb keychains you can order them for less than $2 each in bulk and sell them for $5-10
>>993162
http://www.aliexpress.com/item-img/rapid-little-plastic-moulds-making-plastic-injection-rapid-prototype/32509116339.html?spm=2114.10010108.1000017.2.v7OLDh
It's this good enough?
>>993151
>You cant directly print an injection molding die. It'll look like dog shit.
>You need to print and clean a plastic model and use lost casting to create an aluminium die.
This. 3D print a model from ABS, give it an acetone vapour bath for smoothing, and make a mold from that.
>>993153
3D print, vapour bath for decent results on things that don't need to have terrific detail.
>>993154
> just a vice, a plunger, a nozzle, and a heating element
If you don't want molten pressurized plastic spraying all over the place you NEED to do the calculations. The mold halves need a lot of pressure to stay together.
>>993019
>>992555
Yea, and there's also an equally vocal guy who thinks deltas are superior to literally any other machine and will start shit for no reason other than starting flame wars.
The truth of the matter is it doesn't matter what printer you get. They both have their ups and downs, and so long as the axes are stable, the settings are right, and the filament doesn't suck. You'll get good prints every time.
>>993258
What a quality post.
Making up a quote, then comparing apples to oranges as if it has any bearing in reality.
Im guessing you are the anti-delta guy?
>>993267
>making up a quote
what
>comparing apples to oranges
I literally just asked a simple question, I'm not the "anti-delta guy". All of the professional printers I've encountered so far have been Cartesian, I haven't seen a single professional Delta. I'm wondering why.
>as if it has any bearing in reality
Well, maybe because it does? Because the Delta vs. Cartesian posts are a constant thing in this thread?
>>993268
Deltas use all their 3 motors for every movement while box-bots use only 2 at max making them less fast and precise.
>>993277
that's some dumb shit there anon
>>993268
Nobody said that deltas are "so much better", at least not that I can see.
As for your apples and oranges, you cant compare to compare two different levels of printers with two different demographics with different intended uses.
A $20,000 industrial machine pushes the limits of FDM printing, in terms of accuracy and speed.
You can only FDM print so fast or so accurate. This is why real industrial prototyping is done with sintering 3d printing.
An industrial level parallel robot of the same caliber as the industrial FDM printer would be far faster on every axis. Doesnt mean you would be able to use that extra speed, you can only lay plastic so fast while keeping it under control
These big companies who have been making 3d printers since the 80s when they owned patents for them are not going to change their designs they have honed for over 20 years. There wouldnt be a benefit to it, they already have heavy rigid and accurate machines. It wouldnt cost any less.
As for consumer printers you build in your house?
Speed is king, its really not hard to get near top accuracy out of any home printer. Nearing the .1 layers even with a chinese acrylic printer. I can get similar quality prints out of a 200$ printer vs a 1500$ tazbot.
The only difference is how fast you are going to get it.
If you have a home built wobbly wooden cartesian printer, and you crank the speed up, its going to flex while having no accuracy at all.
When you are working with the sort of accuracy and layer height that home printers do, a parallel bot can make a significant difference in speed.
Deltas give best bang for buck speed out without compromising on accuracy.
>>993277
more motors would mean more sources of error, ergo less precise
>>993287
This complete oversimplification is just as retarded as his was.
FIGHT, FIGHT, FIGHT!
