This is an outlet used to charge my electric car. When I bought the car, I replaced the 15A outlet with this 20A GFCI to hopefully resist the heat a little better. Now this one is starting to discolour.
Does anybody have a suggestion for an outlet that would hold up to the heat a little better. The charger only draws 12A max, but up to 11 hours in worst case scenario. The house is 2006.
>>964933
it looks like it's discoloring because it's dirty and causing arcing
also changing the 15amp outlet to a 20amp one was fucking stupid assuming the line wasn't ran for that
>>964936
It's not dirty. It's definitely discoloured from heat. The outlet is only 4 months old.
I don't have anything 20A to plug into it anyway, I just hoped it would handle the heat better. I've never actually seen anything with a 20A plug on it. Does anybody use that?
>>964945
>It's not dirty. It's definitely discoloured from heat.
I can see black build up in both outlets.
In any case, run a new dedicated 20 amp line in your garage
>>964945
This didn't happen overnight either. It slowly got darker and darker. But, like I said, the outlet is only 4 months old and probably has only about 120 hours total at 12a. I charge exclusively at work 5 days a week.
>>964948
The wiring is perfect. I don't need 20A
>>964954
if the wiring were perfect you wouldn't be getting the arcing, you can go ahead and likely keep heating up the wiring until you finally have a fire or hire an actual electrician
>>964948
BTW, it doesn't arc. Ever. The charger pulls an extremely small current to boot/self-test and only ramps up to 12A when the car requests charge. It's never been unplugged while charging.
>>964958
The plug is clean and shiny, and the receptacle is new. It's not from a bad connection. An electrician is a little ridiculous. The wire was like new, like virgin new, there's no discolouration on it. A new 15a run is not going to help, let alone a 20a run. The wiring is not the issue.
The socket can't shed enough heat over that long of a time span, is there something better?
Is there a brand of sockets that are better at this than others?
>>964933
May just be simple chemical staining from whatever material the plug body is made of.
>>964965
christ just read the NEC
>>964967
That may be. I'm starting to think that maybe the T shape on that side gets hotter because of less metal touching one side of the blade.
>>964933
As I look at the photo, something strikes me odd.
Usually when I see electric outlets with arch damage, the "burned" plastic is on the "HOT" side small prong, but in OP's pic the burned plastic is on the NEUTRAL side large/double prong.
Seems spoopy to me.
I'm not an electrician, try to stay far away from electrics, but these things should be run off a 20AMP main breaker with a dedicated 12 gauge wire line up to the 20AMP ORANGE dedicated outlet.
I remember an electricain-bro saying that the ORANGE plastic withstands heat, smolder, and burn better than regular white plastic outlets.
Furthermore, a GFCI is fucking stupid choice of an outlet for a high-draw car charger. Cooking the little circuit board... or have the polarity reversed.
>>964933
no ground causes arc........
>>964972
>Usually when I see electric outlets with arch damage, the "burned" plastic is on the "HOT" side small prong, but in OP's pic the burned plastic is on the NEUTRAL side large/double prong.
you have your sides reversed bro, the discolored side is the hot side
>>964972
You are assuming the wires were not put on backwards.
>>964972
It's not arc damage.
It's a garage, so gfci is code here, plus it's what the mfg recommends.
>>964974
It's not arc damage. Period. It just isn't.
And the charger will not run without ground. It tests the circuit at boot.
>>964975
Hot is small side
>>964978
A: I'm not retarded (also kek)
B: the charger would not run if reversed
>>964975
Unfortunately it is you who are wrong.
The hot is on the right, unless the outlet was wired backwards.
>>964975
>you have your sides reversed bro, the discolored side is the hot side
NO.
On that type of outlet the "T" shaped side is NEUTRAL, the small single is supposed to be the HOT.
The nearly universal "small prong is Hot prong".
Hint: I do bathrooms, I'm always pulling out crispy-burned GFCI's and replacing them. GFCI's are labeled and the "T" is always labeled as "White/Neutral".
One of the few electric things I do.
I might actually try a 15a outlet to give it some more meat on that side. They should at least get hot equally then. Maybe orange plastic this time.
>>964985
Small side is always hot so that the neutral blade can't be inserted. Backwards would be unsafe. Allowing a small blade into a large socket doesn't prevent anything.
Your wire is 12 gauge, right?
...right?
Also just buy a brown or black outlet, retard
>>964998
14 gauge. It's a 15a circuit pulling 12a for this purpose.
I'm not looking for a cosmetic fix either, retard
>>964965
>It's not from a bad connection
So the heat's just teleporting in there from the planet wonkulon?
You're saying two contradictory things, so one of them must, by simple logic, not be true.
>>965003
>metal carrying electricity doesn't create heat
Here's your reply
>>964982
>A: I'm not retarded (also kek)
>B: the charger would not run if reversed
a: I didnt call you retarded
b: what is ac
ac plugs will work backwards allot of times. some plugs dont even have one end bigger than the other so there is no right way to plug it in.
also my guess would be there is too much current on the whole system. what else do you have on that breaker? does the inline for the house actually support the amount of current you are using?
>>964933
Jesus fuck OP, there are several things wrong here.
NEVER run a 20A outlet (with the T-shaped neutral) on 14 gauge wiring. Just don't. There are in fact plugs that will only work with a 20A outlet, and the equipment on them will overload the wiring.
Your outlet is getting hot for SOME reason. If none of the rest of the cabling is getting hot, I would suspect damage/dirtiness in the plug. A poor connection can result in a loss of contact or arcing that would cause this. Like someone else said, there is clearly dirt in the receptacle. Have you tried replacing/cleaning the plug?
How have you verified the charging current? Perhaps there is something wrong with the charger. If this happened with the original, electrician-installed and inspected outlet, I would not start by faulting the outlet.
>>965005
So it creates heat sufficient to discolour plastic, but only in that specific place?
Not in the hundred miles of wiring from the power station to your street. Not in your consumer unit. Not in your walls. Not in your car. Only in the one specific place in the entire world where that connection is being made.
Of course it is just a normal effect of conductors conducting like they're supposed to. How silly of me.
>>965001
electrical codes were made for lots of reasons. here's 2:
1. you don't die in a fire from using an outlet wrong
2. the next owner of the house who doesn't pretend to be an electrician doesn't die in a fire by using a 20 amp outlet thinking it can handle 20 amps
>>964933
>>964965
>>964982
I'm not any of the other guys above.
Its arcing. just because it doesn't have high current to begin with doesn't mean that a low amp high voltage arc won't discolor the surrounding plastic or whatever the plug is made out of. The arc creates ozone that easily reacts and degrades paint and plastic. Also if it was a heating issue the discoloring should be even on both the hot and neutral, but it isn't. The neutral is getting more discolored which suggests an arc. If it was a heating issue you should see damage deeper in the housing and the wires.
ITS ARCING
>>965044
The fuck it is. It's just burning because he's pulling 12 fucking amps through a standard household plug. Shit gets brown when it gets hot. OP is still a retard for saying 'but guise it's only pulling 12 amps constantly through a 15 amp circuit!'
Yea, and what else is on that breaker? I bet your wiring is sizzling. I bet the breaker gets very hot.
Listen to these faggots advice. 20 amp breaker, 12 gauge wiring on a DEDICATED outlet that is a single plug orange/brown.
You are exactly what's wrong with electric car owners. 'I'm saving the environment!' Yes, by charging your car off of coal energy ALL NIGHT. My gas engine runs for 15 minutes to work and 15 minutes back.
Upgrading outlet and not wire doesn't make it higher amperage rating. If you're drawing more current on existing wiring. Could cause fire if too much is drawing.
>>965001
14 gauge is for 15 amps, you don't put a 20A ANYTHING on 14 gauge wire, that's fucking dangerous. Yes it's true you're not using all of the rated capacity but you're only ever supposed to use 80% of the rated capacity in the first place. The rest is to prevent the wires from cooking themselves during peak demand.
>>965074
Somebody can't read.
>>965011
I don't know why you keep coming back to this. It's wired correct. This isn't a lamp, it's a fairly sophisticated electric car charger. It doesn't work unless all of its startup checks are OK.
>>965014
The outlet will be removed when I sell the car. Stop worrying about it. Also this was a known issue with the original chargers and they were recalled and replaced. They got better, but I'd like to get the heat as low as possible. It pulls 11.97A under load and 20mA idle. There's nothing else that ever has been plugged into this brand new outlet. It's probably been plugged in about 32 times so far for about 120hrs of 'on' time.
>>965018
That's why I'm saying maybe the T shape is causing it because of lack of material on the left side
>>965044
Again, the charger has never been unplugged at full draw and is impossible to plug in at full draw. The idle draw is 20mA (about the same as an led night light). A tiny arc won't discolour like that after 32 plug ins. It's a gfci, so the terminals are conducting the exact same amount of current. It seems the only difference is the T shaped receptacle.
Pic related is the plug. I didn't wipe it or anything. It's spotless and shiny like new.
>>965068
The garage opener and light is all that's on the circuit. I'm not going to replace wiring and a breaker that's within specs. I just pulled the panel cover, the side of the breaker is basically room temp.
Oh, and I couldn't give two shits about saving on fuel. This is a toy. I traded a V10 sedan for this because it's fun. Also, it's hydro electricity, I use well under $4.00 a month at my house, and the rest I charge at work. There's better cars for running costs out there, I don't really care.
>>965074
If you just got here. I figured a 20a outlet would be built to handle more heat. I'm not exceeding the circuits rating.
>>965085
It's like almost everyone replying read a few sentences in and started screaming about shit that isn't a problem.
Look for a different brand of GFCI without that side prong, 15 amps.
How is the wiring on the car charger itself?
>>965083
The outlet will be removed after the car goes. Stop dwelling on this. I'm not putting 20a on it, ffs. I'm using 1440 Watts on a circuit designed for 1800w potential. The outlet rating, for all intents and purposes, is irrelevant.
There's heaters that draw a full 15A for hours on end. They're not supposed to do this either. I'm just trying to get it as cool as I can.
>>965087
Yes, thank you
The 120v side is perfect. It's only 12 inches long and the stress relief seems good. I was just hoping an electrician might have a brand suggestion for ones that might be better. I think a 15a is where I'll start though. The previous outlet that was in here was getting warm too, but it was only in for a couple days before I changed it out.
>>965088
>there's heaters that draw 15A for hours on end
If they're not on a dedicated circuit rated for 20A or higher they would trip the breaker after a short while.
>>965094
bullshit.mp3
>>965098
Are you running them without a breaker or fuse? Are you knowingly running them with a faulty breaker? If you're answering yes to either of these you're a fucking retard.
>>965085
>I don't know why you keep coming back to this
Im a different anon, my only posts in this thread are the one saying he assumed it was wired correct and the one you replied to.
A charger is a charger, your car isnt special and your car doesnt charge off of ac current. ac gets changed to dc and most chargers dont give a fuck how you input that ac.
also you need to stop raging at legitimate answers.
>>964933
That is contact resistance. Probably replace the car charger plug that goes into the socket. Might have some shit tier plating or dirty
>>965108
This is all I could see. You are not drawing full amps from the socket, you replaced the outlet and it happened again.
Replace that plug. It only looked a little burned and scratched up in the picture, but it could be shit tier.
>>965088
If your house burns down for any reason, it will not be insurable because they can find your shitty wiring and tell you to fuck off.
How many times do we need to tell you it doesn't matter if you're not drawing 20A, you are NOT supposed to put a 20A socket on a 15A branch.
There ARE electricians here and you keep ignoring them and saying 'nuh uh that's not it' You are just dumb as shit and can't get over it.
We are all independently coming to the conclusion that you are a lost fucking cause and will not listen to common sense until you kill someone or burn something down. We long ago accepted you cannot fix stupid.
>>965085
>well within specs
>continuously burning up outlets
Why the fuck are you here again? This isn't a blog faggot, you asked for advice and most people here have you the right answer. Fuck off if you don't want advice.
>>965104
You obviously don't know how anything about EVSEs. The car accepts ac on its J1772 socket. It gets converted to DC in the car. And yes these "chargers give a fuck how you input that ac". They are very sensitive to wiring. There are several outlets in the lot at work that just make the charger light up red.
>>965108
>>965115
I'll try another outlet first. I'd hate to wire a new cord and have it be the same.
>>965125
>shitty wiring
Just no. All of the electrical I've done is infinitely better than how I found it. I'd trust my work before some $10/hr wire puller that was in there before me and could care less what happens after he leaves the job site.
>How many times do we need to tell you it doesn't matter if you're not drawing 20A, you are NOT supposed to put a 20A socket on a 15A branch.
I realize that, who the fuck cares. It will be reverted back when I don't have a use for it. It's literally like saying an extension cord rated 20A is too much for a table lamp.
>There ARE electricians here and you keep ignoring them and saying 'nuh uh that's not it' You are just dumb as shit and can't get over it.
I came here with a very specific question of a recommendation for a better outlet. The 20A I have isn't discolouring because I'm overloading it. This isn't rocket science, don't make it out to be.
>We are all independently coming to the conclusion that you are a lost fucking cause and will not listen to common sense until you kill someone or burn something down. We long ago accepted you cannot fix stupid.
Nothings going to burn down. This is a known issue and it's in service by the tens of thousands. I'm just trying to make it as best as it can be.
>>965133
It has been tested to be well within specs. What don't you get? I even gave the exact numbers. Go make shit up somewhere else.
>>965139
An outlet isn't going to create noticeable heat, much less heat enough to discolor with as little use as you describe, unless something, somewhere, is wrong.
Is TR a super cheap brand in your area? Could you bump up to a moderate or higher quality GFCI? Maybe replace the breaker with a properly installed GFCI breaker and use a plain 'dumb' plug on the wall?
>>965139
>All of the electrical I've done is infinitely better than how I found it.
That is demonstrably false
>Installed a 20A outlet on a 15A circuit for no good reason, and not knowing enough about code to know when that could possibly be allowed.
You can't even fucking shotgun troubleshoot. You replaced the outlet because it's easy. You continued having the same problem, so you're going to change the outlet a third time?
>It's been tested to be well within spces.
You have a kill-a-watt or similar ammeter that's not integrated into the car?
>Within specs
>Continuously burning up outlets
Fucking this. You are so dumb, god damn.
You are repeatedly BTFO here and you are still here being dumb as shit.
6/10 troll I guess.
>>965145
>you are still here being dumb as shit.
He is being cheap.
It will be a different story when there is a fire.
>>965139
One more try to illustrate for you
You've changed your own outlet twice. It's screwed up every time
Was it 7/10 outlets at work don't work? Have you tested these? Commercial electricians generally don't fuck around. Those outlets are probably fucking fine.
So you have your car not working or causing thermal damage to 100% of the outlets you have ever plugged it into, and you're still blaming the outlets?
Fuckin' a
>>965145
>>965152
>>965156
OK you fucking retards. Overbuilding the outlet isn't making this worse. Read the fucking thread.
I know the amperage it's drawing. It doesn't go over 11.97a at the outlet. The wiring is rated above that and shows no signs of heat. The breaker is rated above that and is cool. Let's just pretend for an idiotic second that the wiring is 12gauge and the breaker is 20amp. Do you really think pulling the same 11.97a through the 20a socket is going to be any different this time. I'm not fucking being cheap by deliberately installing the more expensive outlet.
The plugs at work were about 4 bad out of 50 or so. The people with block heaters complain too. The charger is OK except for possible resistance in the molded plug as discussed. It runs its checks and finds faults. This isn't just a dumb relay or something. It takes a few seconds when you plug it in to self test.
>you replaced the outlet because it's easy.
I replaced the outlet because that's where the issue is. The outlet isn't defective, I'm just trying to find one that stays cooler. As per the original post.
>>965143
TR means tamper resistant, it's a Leviton.
Anyway, I found a Leviton 'industrial rated' and 'spec rated' outlet. No gfci to keep the back more open. Non tamper resistant to maybe have larger contacts inside. It's orange and it says it's nylon, which may be different because the others don't specify what they're made of. They have a 'commercial grade' too, which is a step down maybe.
>>965170
OK did some more digging. Apparently common with GFCIs. Has happened with just on one charge in some cases. The industrial receptacle I found was a recommendation.
Here's the solution, if any of the safety vests care.
The green dot means 'hospital spec', and the green triangle is isolated ground. Nylon is higher heat and more impact resistant. The contacts are called double wipe and have more surface area. Apparently they also make one specifically for EVSEs, but I can't find it and this one is built tougher. Standard grade outlets aren't rated for continuous service. There was even a software change for the car the next model year that made it default to 8A charge at 120v unless you changed it manually every single time.
>>965170
So change the plug, or change the outlet. If it keeps happening take the car back and say wtf to the dealer. And the anons here are right, you don't put a 20 amp outlet on a 15 amp circuit. I know you have every intention of changing it back, but what happens if somehow, just SOMEHOW, you kick off tomorrow (probably from being electrocuted, possibly burned up in a fire as well) and the next poor schmuck comes along not knowing what an idiot you were, and... Get the idea? It's not all about you, snowflake, err, I mean troll.
2/10 made me reply
Change both plug and socket together. One will likely have damaged the other. If it keeps happening regularly go 240 volts and/or three phase.
>shitty American socket melted to fuck
This is normal though isn't it?
For your country anyway.
Use a proper socket like an iec 60309 (they come in yellow for site/joke voltages) instead of that babby toy pish you call a socket
>>965188
>This is normal though isn't it?
It is when you break code.
>>964958
This.
>>965179
>what if
The breaker pops
Just as if it was a 15a outlet you overloaded.
>snowflake
I didn't like your choice of vehicle either
>>965200
Another one that didn't read the thread
There's forum pages full of people trying to remedy this problem just like me. A heavy duty socket is needed. I had no idea it existed, so I asked. Nobody else here knew either. But the amount of inspectors here butt mad about me installing the best I knew of at the time, is astounding.
>Omg, you put a 20a receptacle on a 15a circuit. It can't handle 12a, what are you thinking. Of course that's why. Omg so much sparks.
Thanks to the couple of legitimate suggestions from people who actually know how electricity works.
Sorry to any electricians that missed out on turning those 7 screws for me.
>>965139
Chargers dont give a shit how you input AC no matter how special snowflake you think your car is.
>>965217
Not really sure what your getting on about here. The charger checks polarity, ground presence, ground fault, under and over voltage, just like every other charger using the J1772 plug and the j2836, j2847, and j2931 communication standards. It's like practically every other plug-in Ev ever made. There's nothing special about it like you are implying.
Why do you hate electric cars so much? Did a cab driver rape your mom in his prius?
>>965139
>You obviously don't know how anything about EVSEs. The car accepts ac on its J1772 socket. It gets converted to DC in the car.
Everything above is completely pointless. spastically spewing that out just made you look like a fool. It was not related to what I said, and it did not contradict what I said.. hell, you even repeated what I said in the end.
>And yes these "chargers give a fuck how you input that ac".
No they don't, and if it does the charging circuit is budget and you should feel bad.
>They are very sensitive to wiring.
just like the wiring in your garage we've already established that you botched
>There are several outlets in the lot at work that just make the charger light up red.
why are there outlets in the lot at work?
do you know anything about these outlets?
have you taken a meter to see these anonymous outlets are even 120v? 440v?
just how much other shit is on these outlets? can you prove that there isnt other things on the circuit that are draining the power?
Also its obvious that you are a shitty troll. You've touched almost ever subject that could trigger /diy/.
>>965231
There's a socket in nearly every fucking parking stall in the country. We use block heaters. Not everybody lives in trumpland.
If the charger sees a fault on the line, it won't power the car. How much more simple can I put it?
>most chargers don't give a fuck how you input that ac yada yada snowflake
That's what you said, and it's wrong
>>965231
>>There are several outlets in the lot at work that just make the charger light up red.
>why are there outlets in the lot at work?
>do you know anything about these outlets?
>have you taken a meter to see these anonymous outlets are even 120v? 440v?
>just how much other shit is on these outlets? can you prove that there isnt other things on the circuit that are draining the power?
This really is hilarious though. You should just stop while you're behind. These outlets are on fences in sand that shifts with the frozen ground, getting knocked around around by plows and cars. Shits gonna go wrong.
>>965231
>No they don't, and if it does the charging circuit is budget and you should feel bad.
Yeah, they do. We're talking about hectovolts and kilowatts here; this isn't charging a phone or a laptop*. Basic testing of the supply, including ground and polarity absolutely is done, if for no other reason than that cars aren't double-insulated, and there are whiners who consider the chassis going live to be a "big deal".
* though they do basic sanity checking too, and won't charge if doing so voltage-drops the supply too much.
>>964933
Pull a 12ga wire to your outlet and the heat will be reduced. The wire inside the wall is heating up too, yo. You're drawing 80% capacity on that circuit. The outlet its self makes little difference except for the 20A blade slot.
Also, how did you attach the wires? Are they screwed to the sides or (god forbid) did you stick them in the back?
![_iec-cloverleaf-adaptor[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/uiP8i5u.jpg "_iec-cloverleaf-adaptor[1].jpg")
>>965139
>It's literally like saying an extension cord rated 20A is too much for a table lamp.
Actually, it's literally like saying that the 15A-rated kettle socket you screwed on is too much for a 6A mickey-mouse lead, but whatevs.
The thing is keyed to stop you overloading it, and you deliberately jimmied the keying.
>>965262
>or (god forbid) did you stick them in the back?
This. The heat might be coming from the wiring connection behind the receptacle (in the box).
Stay away from those push-in spring loaded wire connections (I thought they were against code, but I could be wrong).
>>964936
Actually changing the outlet with one rated for more current is to code as long as he didn't swap in a 20 amp breaker.
>>964936
>>965302
You're both right.
So long as it's the only receptacle on the circuit, NEC says only
>A single receptacle installed on an individual branch circuit shall have an ampere rating not less than that of the branch circuit.*
That doesn't mean it's not fucking stupid. A 15A socket means you can only plug in devices with 15A plugs, which means a continuous draw (by compliant devices) of 12A. A 20A socket lets you plug in devices rated to 20A, with a continuous draw, therefore, limited to 16A.
Continuously drawing 15A won't trip a 15A breaker, but will exceed the safety margin of a 15A wire.
Sure, your 15A breaker protects you from an instantaneous draw of 20A, but your new car that has a 20A plug and draws 15A could set your house on fire.
* if it's not the only receptacle on the circuit, you are absolutely forbidden from using a 20A one.
>>965302
Is this new?
Nec stated, as far as I know, that a 15a receptacle can be installed on a 20a branch, but not the other way around. They may have changed it because it's ass backwards.
Having a 15a receptacle on a 20a circuit is way more dangerous. You can have a 15a device malfunctioning and pulling 20a, absolutely frying the chintzy 15a outlet, and the wiring and breaker says AOK. At least the other way around, you're protected by the breaker. In the same way as if you plugged in two 10a loads into a 15A circuit.
>>965262
>>965286
Do people actually use those? I can't believe that's even legal. Is it?
They're screwed of course. I made sure they go as far around as possible for maximum contact. I'm not "Joe fixit", I'm an electrician by trade, and work on voltages magnitudes greater than this. I'm just not residential.
>>965312
Looks like it changed in 2008?
You're allowed a SINGLE 20A receptacle on its own 15A branch, but nothing more. A DUPLEX 20A receptacle is not ok.
>>965209
Now I know you're trolling, because I (and one or two other anons) gave you the best advice in the thread and you glossed right over it to give another reason you're right. Change the plug or the outlet or take the car back.
BUT! Since you're doing well at it I'll give you a real "what if." You assume room temperature, some other schmuck buys your place. He plugs a Canadian (assuming, because you did. I don't care what you drive, you're a snowflake because all you care about is you) refrigerator into your "incorrect" outlet thinking it's a 20 amp circuit, fills it with beer and then leaves for vacation. As the garage door closes, the fridge kicks on, pops the breaker, and all that beer warms up. You can't drink re-refridgerated beer, and you caused it! And he's all out of baby mice to put in the bottle! This is wrong, anon. Some things you just don't do.
>>965316
The 15a outlet would be designed to fail at 20a.
In new construction the branch is probably 12g, which is okay for most lengths for a single 20a outlet or 15a duplex. It would have had 20a breaker on it already if it was 12g wire though. I think op said it was 15.
IP changing the outlet to 20a removed one of the safeties on his circuit. The 15a outlet is supposed to fail at 15amps. If it's 15a breaker, it's part of the dealip. The breaker and outlets can't exceed the rating of the wire. The wire can exceed the rating of the breaker and outlet.
Op is still trying to start a fire.
>>965335
Forget the wiring and breaker for a second though. Hell, let's assume it's all 20a. As far as leviton is concerned, they're receptacle is operating within limits and as intended. As far as the charger company is concerned, they too are within spec.
But there's an obvious problem, and it's not isolated to me. That outlet is designed for a continuous 15a load, of which I am only using 12. Pretty disconcerting. Leviton, as well as other mfgs I'm sure, just hopes you don't actually use it for that. Or hey, just buy the outlet that wasn't trolling about its continuous rating.
I know all of your hearts were in the right places, and I fully understand the risks. Thanks for the help or at least the banter.
>>965336
I never went beyond 11.97A, and the measuring started the first time I charged the car and noticed the warm plug. This was all a very preventative experiment in a "controlled environment". Nobody else uses my car or garage. The 20a outlet was never a permanent fix, it was only installed to take advantage of the extra heat handling/shedding ability that, I know now, does not exist.
If the 20A would stay cool, we wouldn't be having this conversation, and it still would have been replaced back to 15a after the car goes.
In retrospect, I should have just asked asked what the best heat handling outlet available is. I gave too much information for bully.
I was searching google for the wrong terms. But the anon that mentioned orange coloured outlets was the ultimate turning point. And now you all know, "hospital grade" is where it's at. You're welcome, BTW.
>>965323
>can't believe that's even legal
I know it was popular when they were first featured before people knew what happened after a few years. There's some home owners out there that use them though...
Read the rest of the thread after posting and I'd still pull a wire and make a dedicated circuit for charging your car, heavy duty socket aside.
>>965340
Honestly anon, you said there was already a problem with the charging system on the car, and no one has mentioned that there could still be one. There's theory and there's practice, and if you go to the "gore thread" there are plenty of examples of CRAZY electrical "fixes," some of which probably work; so your outlet change is probably fine. That leaves the car and it's systems. The only thing you have left is to try it on a dedicated 20 amp circuit, and if it still happens (the arcing or discoloring or whatever), it has to be the car. Keep your dick in a vice!
>>965355
There's nothing wrong with the charger or the car. I didn't say that.
The original charger was replaced with the updated model I have already. Cars that were manufactured after mine have the software that defaults to an 8a charge request every time you cycle the "ignition". Mine is selectable on the charger and stays latched.
After some more digging. I think I'll just get the industrial spec grade socket. The hospital grade has a 28 lb pull force. It's hard enough getting this 90 degree plug out of sockets as it is.
>>965385
You come on back and post about your wiring melting when your done, friend. We'll be here, laughing and harassing.
(European) electrician here.
We've started to notice outlets being used to charge electric cars with the "emergency" schuko chargers will overheat the outlet over time and sometimes melting.
This is because all normal electrical appliances up to today will only be drawing power for up to about an hour before taking breaks for various reasons and it's these kind of loads that normal outlets are tested for.
Charging electrical cars is different. With them you'll have a very high draw for 6 hours or more and with outlets being quite a weak connection it will cause damage.
I'm note quite sure what products you have available over there, but there are dedicated charger boxes with a fixed "hose" to charge the vehicle. This will require installation by a qualified electrician and the stations are somewhat expensive, but it's one of the things that electric car owners should be informed about and take into account when purchasing the vehicle.
Unfortunately most sellers either don't know about the risk of using the "emergency" chargers or they don't want to inform you about it in order to make the purchase more desirable.
>>965347
>"hospital grade"
lame
pic related. man up.
available in any voltage/current/phase you would ever need.
It's shocking to me how few people actually understand electricity and thermodynamics.
He could cut that shitty plug off and put in a 30amp twist lock and still be fine. (I understand that he wants to keep it compatible with the other outlets he uses so this is a no go).
And multiple 20 amp outlets an a 15 amp breaker is still to code too. The only combo FORBIDDEN by code is a single outlet that can handle less than the breaker.
![Table_210_21_B_3[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/JWFBVT7.jpg "Table_210_21_B_3[1].jpg")
>>965467
>And multiple 20 amp outlets an a 15 amp breaker is still to code too
No, it's not.
NEC 210.21.(B):
>(3) Receptacle Ratings. Where connected to a branch circuit supplying two or more receptacles or outlets, receptacle ratings shall conform to the values listed in Table 210.21(B)(3)
>>965348
Make it easier, just use some conduit and (pull THHN wire) and mount it to the wall so you don't have to tear walls open.
>>965415
Yeah but snowflake can't plug one of these into his work plug to mooch off their electricity bill
>>965415
Never seen a hubbel wall outlet. We used them in the Marine Corps for power distribution.
>>965343
> extra heat handling/shedding ability that, I know now, does not exist.
They don't need "heat handling/shedding ability", because a socket and plug that are actually making proper contact don't generate heat.
The first time this happened, you should have replaced the outlet and the plug at the same time. Now you have an outlet that kills plugs, and a plug that kills outlets.
>>965496
They're common in the UK for high-power appliances that have to be movable (hot cupboards, dishwashers, etc.)
We call them "commando plugs".
>>965497
>don't generate heat
No, they do produce heat. Any electrical connection generates heat, but a bad connection simply generates MORE heat.
>>965498
Common on caravans and boats too
>>965501
Well, surely produces the same amount but if it's a narrow gauge then it's concentrated / not dissipated over a large enough area to prevent damage?
>>965501
Thanks, spergatron.
>>965550
I'm sure there is a measurable difference between the same current traveling through different conductors over a period of time, but I was merely pointing out that anywhere electricity is present (particularly at connections), heat is generated.
I think the euro electrician who has first hand experience with OPs problem gave the best answer and offered an excellent solution.
>>965467
I'm going to see how it does with just the outlet first, but I have a question. The black molded plug that's on the charger right now, would they typically be soldered connections, or just mechanically crimped?
If it's still warm, I could replace it with pic related, it's rated 20a and hospital from leviton, but if it was soldered or welded from factory, I'm just creating another connection point with the screw clamps. It honestly looks perfect right now, there's no signs of heat or mechanical damage, so I'll see how it goes first.
The outlet is going on in the morning. I'll try to run the car down tonight as low as I can to test.
>>965493
Your jelly is showing.
Just buy a neat pair of funky sunglasses or something, people might start to notice you then.
I am an electrician and all you need to do is test the volts you are getting with a tester. If you are getting the 110-120v your line is fine and you did not need to upgrade to a 20 amp gfci especially if your breaker is a 15 amp breaker. And because I saw this in this thread the big prong IS the neutral side. But all in all its very simple just swap the breaker over to a 20 amp breaker if you have not already and you may want to swap the outlet being it is already showing some heat problems you should be just fine
>>965612
>just mechanically crimped
>just
Seriously, call an electrician, and have him fix your work while he's at it.
You are firmly in unknown unknowns territory.
>>965787
I can't change the breaker, it's only 14 gauge wire. I got the spec grade outlet and installed it. The 20a and 15a are identical, they just use different faces. They have T shaped terminals on hot and neutral, so it might even be the same back as a 6-15 (2 horizontal).
I rechecked that circuit to. It is alone on the hot side, but shares neutral with the garage door opener. Draw there is .21A lights on, and 1.07A peak while operating. So, worst case scenario is 12.2A continuous. I eliminated the neutral marette in the box by wiring both to the receptacle. I cut the wires, (which were all still mint, btw) and used the rear clamps to not stress the wire any more by looping around the screws.
The difference in pull force is substantial. I ran the car down and it's charging now. Update coming soon. Please subscribe.
>>965787
20 different random people
>you're gonna burn your house down because you're an idiot
electrician
>swap the outlet you should be just fine
4chan everyone
>>965925
>"electrician"
>telling him to do something extremely unsafe which breaks the law.
>>965613
Typical electric car owner post.
>>965905
Okay OP, even though I think you're a little hard headed you've converted me. You seem smart enough to be reasonably safe, though I still wouldn't put a 20 amp outlet on a 15 amp circuit personally, unless that's all I had, and it was for a limited time with very light draw. I'm almost sorry I called you a snowflake even! Post updates, please.
>>964933
At 12A discoloration is going to happen to white fittings, use an outdoor rated socket if this bothers you. If the stain can be removed by rubbing your finger on it or there is warping or you can feel heat on the plug / socket then you have an issue.
>sparky with 10years experience
>>966001
I don't really thinks it's much cause for concern more than wanting it to be as good as it can be.
Anyway, charged for several hours. The socked is barely noticeably warm. Quickly pulled the socket to feel the lugs/wires, and it's all nearly cold back there. Not that I tried that on the gfci, but the more open and direct design seems to be helping.
The plug and cord are still warm. The plug seems not as warm as before, though. I plugged it into a 12 gauge extension cord, and its molded plug is staying much cooler in the socket. The chargers cord and plug don't seem to have changed with the extension cord.
I'm going to let it run for a bit longer to see for sure. I think the final solution would be to sacrifice a foot off of a nice, molded end, 12 gauge cord, and open up the charger to clamp/solder it to the board.
>>966041
Get a professional to install one of these for you so that you don't burn down your house.
http://www.chargepoint.com/home/
You might just try a shorter extension cord.
>>965581
Here's your (you)!
>>965941
Typical retard post.
>>965498
I think commando was the MK brand.
'ceeform' is a common name but I don't know where it came from.
Everyone I know calls them '3 phase' connectors which really rustles my jimmies
Can anyone explain what is dangerous about a 20A socket on a 15A circuit?
Don't you guys have overcurrent protection? I mean in theory its stupid but why is it dangerous?
Since you guys don't have fuses in your plugs then certainly a 15A socket on a 20A circuit would be dangerous.
>>966261
It isn't. It's just rhetoric 4chan redneck electricians use to belittle people on DIY.
If the breaker is rated 15 amp then it will cut off over a draw of 15 amp. The socket wouldn't play any part on that unless it was under rated.
As for OP I'd consider the heat isn't from the socket, rather the plug and the socket is baring the brunt. If you're charging a car my first port of call would be your dealer and ask them what they consider to be the issue.
>>965088
>I'm using 1440 Watts on a circuit designed for 1800w potential.
>The garage opener and light is all that's on the circuit.
So, if you've got the car charging and you open the garage door, how many watts is it drawing through that 1800w circuit?
>>964933
I would recommend going down to a 15a socket. A 20a socket on a 15a plug, I would imagine be loose connections.
Theres nothing wrong with having a 20a socket on the circuit so long as your cable protection does not exceed save values. (It's just bad practise)
I would go with like a 3 pin IP rated plug other wise. You can screw it onto the socket to eliminate and chance of loose connection
>>966258
But that's a 3 phase outlet/plug shown. 5 wire (3 hot, neutral, ground)
Don't know why that would rustle your jimmies.
>>966289
About 1570 peak. And it only shares neutral, it's basically wired like a kitchen split with 14/3.The garage door is DC with soft start/stop, and sprung as light as possible. I was really surprised at the numbers. I posted them further up. >>965905
>>966224
I won't have the car for too long, and the next car on my list isn't electric, so it doesn't make sense for me. I'd just like to mention, regarding all the "call an electrician" comments in the thread: it's legal for the homeowner to do electrical where I live. An installation like this is not hard as long as you know the risks, and implying such is dumb.
>>966227
The cord on the charger is only 12 inches. There's no markings on it, but it is slightly thinner than one of my 'cold weather' 12 gauge cords. I don't think it's 14 gauge though.
>>966261
Nothing. We all know it's against code. And I assume the people posting here know it's only because the mechanical protection is negated. I've explained in detail what I'm doing with it and my theories for doing so. But the tards gonna tard.
>>966293
The socket is in and it tested cool now. The plug end is close to the same temp as the cord now, which is warm. The original problem is eliminated, but to be perfect, I could replace the pigtail. The shitty thing is that the charger has to be broken open to do it. There's no damage to the cord or plug, it didn't get hot enough for that. The car slowly ramps the charger to 12.2, then dials back to 11.8 to 12a, so both are operating perfectly. Anything else I do to the charger is just improving the factory 'budget minded' design. The tampering also making it 'illegal', oh no.
>>966261
every connection has a certain resistance
depending on the average resistance they get a current rating.
If there ist too much current flow, the connection gets warm and may burn /melt / change color.
volts x current = watts
assuming the connection has a resistance of 0,5 ohm
15 A x 0,5 ohm = 7,5 watts
Thats a small electric heating, the higher the current, the more heat is created wthin the connection.
So it is important to stick to the rated currents to be sure they don't burn up in flames.
Additional:
110V AC is pure cancer, so much current flow with so little power.
110V x 15 A = 1650 watts
230V x 16 A = 3680 watts (usual rating for sockets)
230V AC europe master race reporting in
>>966344
Why did you reply to that guy?
Master race indeed
>>966344
Only relevant if the circuit breaker is rated higher than everything's after it.
>>966344
Your math is off. That's 112.5w of heat
>>966344
It's 15^2 x 0.5ohm= 112.5W
I^2 x R = P
E^2/R = P
ExI = P
The circuit still has a 15A breaker on it, so current can never exceed 15A, which is a good thing on a 14ga circuit.
>itt problems of shitty US 120V mains
>>966298
That one specifically is 3phase but they are available in a wide variety of phases/voltages/etc.
>>966261
Breakers are a last line of defense from your house burning down. You don't depend on them regularly.
>>966455
this
OP, just replace all your plugs and sockets with pic related and ask the power company to double your voltage
>>964933
>12A max
http://www.paigewire.com/pumpWireCalc.aspx
Even at 50 feet, you only need 14AWG copper wire and a 15A breaker for 120v/12A/1440ish watts. Personally, I have all 12AWG except where I use things like cookers, heaters, and the like. In those places I use 10AWG.
Does the cord feel warm or hot when you unplug the car? If it does, then the problem is the car's cord. The discoloration may be from when you plug in and unplug. One little spark each time will discolor it over time. That is normal for stuff like electric skillets and such (which have very warm cords too.) This can happen on either side of the outlet, which ever side touches last is the one that sparks if the unit is turned on.
Try bending the prongs of the plug ever so slightly so they make more contact with the inside of the outlet. That always fixed my problems.
Electrician here.
A couple quick points to add to the discussion:
Citing the 2014 NEC:
210.17 and most importantly 210.19 (continuous duty) you really should have it on its own 20 A dedicated circuit. It'll work forever as it is, but for safety and code compliance I'd put it's own outlet in for it. The circuit is designed to handle 1,800 watts as you said, but that is the maximum. The outlet you are plugging your vehicle on is a general purpose circuit. Using your figures I worked out the math and your vehicle, on average, charges for about 3.75 hours each time. That rates it as continuous duty. If you aren't tripping breakers and are okay with the risks that is your call, but I'd run a dedicated line. I do not know for sure, but the fact it is heating up on the neutral side and it is on a circuit with a shared neutral might be causing the heating issue. Check your paperwork-it might recommend or require its own circuit.
Also 20 A outlet on a 15 A circuit is wrong as everyone else has already stated.
Now that I got that out of my system.
From my personal experience that typically occurs when the plug itself doesn't have a tight connection to the receptacle. I would cut and replace the end of the cord to the above recommended plug and switch to a heavy duty outlet.
>>965170
>>965176
You shouldn't really be using iso ground receptacles for this job, its a waste, and anyone who knows their shit will think you stole it or are retarded. Its "isolated" because the mounting strap is not electrically connected to the bond screw like a standard receptacle. When used where intended, the receptacle and box are each bonded seperately and return to the panel on different wires.
>>965176
This is good advice
>>966340
>We all know it's against code. And I assume the people posting here know it's only because the mechanical protection is negated.
Well, it's that and that the two types of socket can handle the exact same amount of current (way in excess of the number you keep saying they're "rated" for), and the one-and-only difference is the keying.
15A sockets are keyed to stop you plugging in stuff that the branch circuit can't handle. 20A sockets are not. This is the only difference. This should be obvious from looking at them: the hot connector on each is *exactly the same*.
>>964933
>>964945
>>964954
>>964965
>>964982
>>965001
>>965085
>>965139
OP, You're a fucking retard.
>asks /diy/ for help
>expects them to confirm you bias instead of pointing out that there are other problems
>"but GFCI is code"
>implying you care about code but then put a 20A socket on 15A wire, which is very not code, and in many places illegal
>"there's not arcing it's obviously overheating from running under rated current when it's designed to handle far more than that"
>"but the problem obviously isn't the gauge, even though that's the only thing in the loop that would cause excessive heating"
>not knowing continuous vs periodic current
Browning is typically caused by the bromine in the plastic, being released from deterioration by either heat or UV radiation.
Plugs and wires don't get that hot running under their rated current, so either it's arcing slightly when plugged or unplugged (which surprisingly, is normal in the US), you need better wire since you're running a near constant 80% load, or whatever you're using to measure current is lying to you.
>>966568
Is pointing out with sources what many in this thread have been saying.
>>965085
>It's spotless and shiny like new.
Except for that slight pitting and bronzing on the neutral prong (which happens to be the brown side) that doesn't appear to be on the hot prong.
>>965467
why do I get the feeling that OP is samefagging
The heat on the outlet is 100% gone now. With an extension cord, it's completely cold. I am in the process of replacing the whole pigtail on the charger. I'm going to use a piece of 12/3 extension cord with a molded plug. The evse was a bitch to take apart. Just bonded together. I had to cut it open with a dremel saw blade. No signs of heat inside at all.
>>966584
It was the only spec grade outlet they had. The box is grounded as well.
>>966590
That's not advice. That's me posting what I installed.
>>966638
You just said exactly what you quoted.
>>966568
Thanks for the 210.19 reference. That formula puts me at 16A "overcurrent rating" on that common neutral with door operating, or 15.2 with door opener lights left on. The spike is still actually only 13a peak, but only if I open the door while charging. And the breaker for the charger won't exceed 12a. I would have put a simplex socket in if I could get a spec grade quickly, but I couldn't. The socket is only used for the car anyway. I should have the charger back together tomorrow. I'm looking forward to trying it out.
>>966656
Great, another one.
Read the fucking thread. It's not fucking arcing. Learn how an evse works. There's next to ZERO current when it gets plugged in, ffs.
The problem at the outlet is gone. It was the shitty fucking gfci. I'd replace the end on the evse, but the cord gets hot too, so I'm just replacing the whole pigtail. I'm sperging because of the same fucking drivel being spewed about this. I came here very specifically because I'm not familiar with what products I could use to remedy the outlet. I've done the testing I needed to and needed advice on a PRODUCT, not a lesson on electrical theory. As I said earlier, I am an electrician by trade, but not in structures.
>>966659
There's no pitting or any other signs of arcing because it doesn't arc. The bronze color is the plating rubbed away at the tips from being inserted. Anyways, it's getting replaced.
>>966683
>there must be high current for arcs to form
>trust me I know, electronics never ever arc slightly when plugged in
>obviously that little spark you see when plugging in many wallworts is just a CIA LED to hold up the conspiracy that I'm actually smarter than I act.
>next to zero current
If by that you mean the 20mA, that's actually not next to zero at 5v, much less 110v.
At 110v most electronics that don't have a physical on/off switch will arc when being plugged in.
This small arc is normal. If what you say is true, and your socket isn't getting hot because you are exceeding the nominal duty cycle or your wiring is not up to par, then this small arcing is all that can be causing it, in which case a plastic more suitable for UV exposure would be preferable.
You asked for a more suitable socket, when /diy/ tried to give a solution by diagnosing the issue and choosing the right plastic, your jimmies rustled so hard they seem to have shot into space and into the Andromeda.
>There's no pitting
If that's normal plug wear then why is it only on one prong?
Don't come to /diy/ with a shitty choice of electrical diagnostics and repair and expect not to get called on it faggot.
You're trying to solve a problem by treating symptoms and not the cause. It's like choosing to take Ibuprofen to cure a bacterial infection in place of antibiotics, instead of taking both.
Sure it'll get rid of your headache and lower your fever, but it won't get rid of the bacteria that might eventually kill you anyway.
>lrn2EVSE
I've heard you say your car uses an EVSE.
I've heard you say you plug AC directly in.
Pick one.
>electrician by trade
You mean electrical technician?
Someone ignoring duty cycle this hard cannot be as trained in electricity as you say you are.
If you were a real electrician you would know how to utilize google before making this thread, instead of halfway through it.
Maybe read the sticky next time.
>>965335
>You can't drink re-refridgerated beer
Youre a retard
>>966749
Maybe I should've used jelly donuts as an example, eh?
>>966683
You are such a dedicated troll. You have been decidedly, demonstrably, and assuredly wrong with every assumption you have made, come up with eighty reasons of your own without listening to anyone, and are still no better off.
>>966664
>You just said exactly what you quoted.
No, you're saying the only reason it's bad is because the keying's not to code; I'm saying it's pointless because the parts don't actually perform any different: literally the only difference is the shape of the neutral pin.
You've not upgraded your current-handling-capacity to 20A: you've just made it possible to insert a 20A plug in and (hopefully) trip the breaker.
>>964933
a really fucking big heat sink
>>966708
Listen you colossal tool. The plug and socket aren't damaged from arcing. I don't know why you're so obsessed with it. Your USB phone charger that arcs, doesn't turn your outlets brown. Not after years let alone 4 months. In any regard, the discolouration isn't even the issue. The heat is. The other reason why you're 'arcing causing a bad connection' theory is dumb is because even if it severely arced every time it was plugged in, the plug and socket don't even contact those areas when in use.
I keep thinking maybe the picture wasn't as close up or clear as it could be, but it is. I fill in what it doesn't convey though:
There are scratches on the plating, on both sides, exactly equal.
Some of the wear at the tips is enough to go through the plating.
There is no pitting or signs of arcing of any kind.
The plating is shiny, free of corrosion, and looks to transfer current as efficiently as possible at the actual contact points.
I googled what I could, hit a wall, and asked for advice on a product. I got a solid lead 6 posts in about orange plastic. More google brought me to the solution to the problem. Install a non-gfci, spec- or hospital-grade outlet.
The problem at the outlet was SOLVED thanks to the 2 or 3 helpful replies. Making up theories to the problem after it was solved is just dumb.
>>966793
I know now that the receptacles are identical, as stated by me 2 days ago. I installed the 20A thinking it would be able to handle and dissipate more heat. This, as I learned 6 replies later, is not the case. Your knowledge would have been very helpful early on in the thread, but you're just repeating stuff that's been said already, by me here: >>965905
>>966769
Other than the 20A socket being better, what are these other assumptions you're talking about? I got advice and solved the problem with that advice. The people I haven't taken advice from are:
Hurr durr arcing
Hurr durr hot because it's a 20A socket
Hurr durr the charger is broken and drawing too much
Hurr durr this wasn't designed for a 15A circuit
Hurr durr you and the other hundreds of thousands of people using a level 1 are dumb for doing so
And my favourite
Hurr durr I don't like the car you drive
The other 5% of people have been extremely helpful in solving this.
>>965938
>replace outlet
>unsafe
I bet you need help to open a cereal box
>>966827
Can't post anymore guys, I'm in custody at the CSA. Alright, who sent them the link? They want to cavity search me now because they think I hid the discoloured 20A gfci.
>>966826
>If what you say is true, and your socket isn't getting hot because you are exceeding the nominal duty cycle or your wiring is not up to par, then this small arcing is all that can be causing it
It was a hypothetical, which is the only thing that could be the CAUSE of the problem if what you're saying about it not overheating is true.
For someone who insists that I haven't read the whole thread, you seem to do a poor job of reading posts yourself, in fact, skipping the part that point's out
>why you're so obsessed with it
entirely.
It's almost like you're ignoring important points like duty cycle, or the fact that you're a troll on purpose.
>Don't come to /diy/ with a shitty choice of electrical diagnostics and repair and expect not to get called on it faggot.
>You're trying to solve a problem by treating symptoms and not the cause. It's like choosing to take Ibuprofen to cure a bacterial infection in place of antibiotics, instead of taking both.
>Sure it'll get rid of your headache and lower your fever, but it won't get rid of the bacteria that might eventually kill you anyway.
>Hurr durr hot because it's a 20A socket
Not what I said, read my posts.
>Hurr durr I don't like the car you drive
Not me.
>Hurr durr this wasn't designed for a 15A circuit.
again, never said that, read my posts.
>Hurr durr the charger is broken and drawing too much
I implied your measurements are wrong, not that the charger is broken, and even then I was referring to duty cycle, not overcurrent.
>>964933
What the fuck did you just fucking say about me, you little bitch? I’ll have you know I graduated top of my class in EVSE, and I’ve been involved in numerous secret nigger rigs on Al-Quaeda, and I have over 300 confirmed socket replacements. I am trained in gorilla electronics and I’m the top sparky in the entire US electric car scene. You are nothing to me but just another arc faggot. I will wipe you the fuck out with hospital plugs the likes of which has never been seen before on this Earth, mark my fucking words. You think you can get away with saying that shit to me over the Internet? Think again, fucker. As we speak I am contacting my secret network of electricians across the USA and your electrons being traced right now so you better prepare for the storm, faggot. The storm that wipes out the pathetic little thing you call your non-arcing white 15A sockets. You’re fucking dead, kid. I can be anywhere, anytime, and I can brown your sockets in over seven hundred ways, and that’s just with my bare hands. Not only am I extensively trained in socket replacement and browning , but I have access to the entire hospital grade 20A socket supply of the United States Marine Corps and I will use it to its full extent to burn your house down, you little shit. If only you could have known what unholy retribution your little “clever” comment was about to bring down upon you, maybe you would have held your fucking tongue. But you couldn’t, you didn’t, and now you’re paying the price, you goddamn idiot. I will shit arcs all over you and you will brown in them. You’re fucking dead, kiddo.
>>966842
Kek, eh! Saved!
>>966832
Reading comprehension not your strong suit, eh? Said you read the thread, huh?
The "hypothetical" you suggested is void. The problem was resolved TWO DAYS before you posted that, idiot. The socket WAS overheating. That is exactly what I implied in the OP. I never said it was not overheating. The level of retardation in your post is clinical.
>not what I said
>not me
>never said that
>didn't say the charger was broken
Again, reading comprehension.
I'll quote what I said
>the PEOPLE I haven't taken advice from are:
If I was talking about you, I might have said "person" instead.
And the readings are accurate. That's the first thing I checked 4 months ago when I noticed it. I'm using a kill-a-watt and when I suspected that maybe it was off, I used an inductive amp probe on a Fluke and it read within 1%.
Your hypotheticals are days and months late, you fish-eyed faggot. Stop raging so hard because you were wrong, Jimmie.
Installing this as the charge cord. A little overkill, but should be nice and cold.
>>966886
Pic related
>>966887
Charging now. I'll se how it is in a few hours
>>964933
You fucked up the mounting and connected the wire too loosely.
>>966882
Alright, have fun with that ibuprofen staff treatment.
>>966882
> still complaining that I can't read
> still can't read my full post
Your symptom is solved...
For now.
>>966936
dude, you got btfo and its hard to watch now. OP remedied the socket problems and he's targeting the next weekest link. what's your problem with that exactly?
>>967006
It's cold now, it was hot before. I don't know what else to tell you. Symptoms are gone because the causes are gone. You're officially rooting for the wrong team.
Car's been charging for almost 6 hours now. Everything is cold. Nearly as cold as if it hadn't been charging. Even the push terminals on the circuit board are cold.
Got the unit all sealed up, a little bit more epoxying to do on the carrying handle part and it'll be better than new. I drilled a hole for a weather tight stress relief on the new cord. It's all pretty heavy duty now.
>>967033
I don't feel like reading through all the shitty advice and shitposting.
Was I right in thinking that it was the plug? Is that how you fixed it?
>>967063
Half receptacle, half plug/cord on the charger. All replaced.
Pull outlet, post pic of terminal connections.
>>967075
The new one? Why. Even the old one that was getting hot looks like new.
>>967078
Mostly curiosity. Got to this thread just now and wanted to give constructive criticism, but I've been reading through and it seems like you've solved your mystery.
Still curious tho.
>>965925
He is very wrong tho. You can't just swap up to a bigger breaker with out up sizing the wire too. Very bad advice.
>>967080
I have to sleep for a bit. I'll pull it tomorrow if the threads still up. I have to fill the edge of the wall anyway because the steel wallplate is smaller than the old plastic one.
But a recap of how it's installed. I eliminated the marrette on the neutral by terminating both neutrals at the receptacle, and I used the screw clamps as opposed to looping the screws to not put unnecessary fatigue into the wires. It's an IG, but it's just grounded conventionally.
>>965613
You are such a cunt. I mean really. Wow. No wonder you drive a fucking EV
>>966455
I'm guessing you're probably trolling, but homes have 240v service and the US and Canada.
>>967178
They do, but not to every outlet and op is too much of a faggot to do have a permanent home charger wired in and would rather just use the away charger at home and away
>>967080
>inb4 backstab
Bottom is the return, top is garage door.
The bottom socket is used for charging so I put the wire as close as possible.
>>967396
>earth is thinner than live and neutral
interdasting
>>967398
>earth
Yurocuck
>>967178
Yeah, but the car is expecting 110v.
I'm not sure what else to say.
>>967396
Heh, thumbnail looks like it's already on fire.
>>966522
lol wut. bro they protect the circuit. In Australia our 10A plugs fit in a 15A socket. But a 15A plug will not fit in a 10A outlet.
Putting it simply. I have a circuit that can safely handle 16A. I have a 16A breaker on it for protection.
Putting a 20A outlet on the circuit does not make it dangerous. It will trip out to prevent cable damage like its supposed to do. This just means you cant run you're giant 20A dildo on the 16A circuit, it'll constantly trip before you climax.
to put it as simply as it can be. you can run a smaller appilance on a higher rated outlet, but not vice versa
