Help me please
I would like to install a hidden push button switch to override the immobiliser on my car. Reason being is it is a key fob style (pic related)that you push into a receptacle to disarm immobiliser and it gives me the shits
Bonus points if I can retain functionality of the immobiliser as its law over here to sell a car with a functioning immobiliser.
This is the guts, I assume it's a resistor?
move the antenna that is the receptacle to under the dash somewhere. Tape your black fob to the antenna in such a way that its always 'connected'.
you need to test the car starting immo symbol goes off
>>937626
just connect a hidden switch between your stater motor and battery.
throw immobiliser away.
>2016
>Living in Germany, United Kingdom, Finland, Australia or Canada
In all seriousness though those things, especially ones like yours are a big joke. Simply pull it out and bypass it with some wire, its not one of the fancy ones that communicates with the ecu.
>>937655
there is already a relay. the ignition switch (magical switches in the key mechanism) switches various relays like the ignition system relay. an immobilizer simply sits in the middle of the circuit, adding another key that needs to be input to complete the circuit. just
>follow the wires running from the immobilizer
>2-4 of these will be power wires, one or two 12v and one or two ground wires each
>depending on your system you could have a three point system
>mine switches fuel pump, ignition module and starter relay
>install a switch to suit your application
>can get switches that switch three different circuits with one toggle
>there will be wires running from the immobilizer to the main wiring harness and ignition switch
>identify the pairs of wires based on colors/stripes
>autoelectricians are always too lazy to install properly
>simply run another wire between them
>immobilizer should now be disabled
>test
>cut the wires you just installed and install a switch to toggle the circuit
>use all black wire to obsfucate their purpose
>if possible, replace all your immobilizer wiring with one color because the shitty colored wire ones are super simple to hot wire
>>937667
and dont forget to disconnect the battery while doing electrical work senpai.
>>937667
if you want to keep the immobilizer switch it for one that doesn't need to plug in. Otherwise just remove it.
What I do is hold the immobilizer and key so I can quickly push them both in one after the other without fumbling around. I have the receptacle right below the ignition so this is how I hold them.
you'd be better checking if you can simply disable the crap via CANbus programming - change a couple of bytes, you (reversibly) done. Needs programming cable/prog, or ask a garage..
You may have problems if you start hacking otherwise, they are not usually designed to be 'cut the red wire' bypassed - if your ECU has sensors expecting signals from a functional immobilizer, you fucked.
Either that, or leave sensor in receptacle, hide/relocate if needed as per >>937643 - not understanding problem here entirely otherwise, desu.
What the fuck is the point of this shit?
>you need 4 keys to start your car, by law!
>don't forget your RFID and bank approved insurance card
Hey man, without knowing anything about your system, I would
1. measure the resistance of the key fob
2. Go buy a resistor of that value
3. Test if it disarms buy touching receptacle contacts with resistor.
4. If it works, expose wires behind receptacle. There should be two, cause there is two contacts.
5. Wire in a switch of your choice with an inline resistor
Once again, I don't know the system but this would be the most logical way if you want to keep the receptacle operational, you are just piggybacking the circuit
>>937682
Seconded. What the fuck am I looking at?
>>937720
Nevermind, just looked it up. They are common all over, but why the hell are they required in some places?
>>937626
>Have jetta
>only one key
>would be at least 300$ to get a second because of the rfid bullshit
>kind of just want to tape the module to my steering column because the actually key cost 20$ to cut, it is the RF signal duplciation that cost hundreds
I want to, but I heard putting the key into the ignition energizes the module (which I was too lazy to check).
I also wanted to try and duplicate the signal and reprint it, but word on the street is you cannot copy the encrypted signal, which confuses me because you just duplciate the signal wholesale, whatevs.
I gave up out of laziness and am forever terrified I'll lose my key and then have to add a towing cost on top of the key cutting cost.
>>937722
Why are they even made in the first place? That's the question. It seems more like dealer and manufacturer price gauging for gimmicks than it is for actual security. Anyone who wants to steal that shit just steals it and there isn't shit anyone can ever do about that.
>>937778
You obviously have no idea how an immobiliser works.
Without the RFID in the key, you cannot start the car, meaning you cannot hotwire it.
As far as I understand, stealing the RFID is akin to packet stealing to get someone's wifi password. It take time and dedication and is stupid hard since the RFID is only broadcaster a few meters away from the car/key.
In short, an immobiliser blocks out thugs, which is 99% of car thieves. And none of the remaining 1% want to steal your shitbox.
>>937626
The part in your hand is not a factory original part. Go to a local car audio install shop. Chances are there is just a relay that isn't engaging properly or just have them remove it or modify it to work with another switch. Like blinker switch, etc.
>>937778
>Anyone who wants to steal that shit just steals it and there isn't shit anyone can ever do about that.
Except immobilizers do. That's why they're required. They raise the bar for how much effort is required to steal a car, so the value of what's stolen goes up as a result. Thieves must target luxury cars only as stealing Hondas just doesn't pay and isn't worth the risk.
It has cut down on car theft dramatically.
>>937745
Split the costs and it's not too bad.
Go ahead and buy the blank and have it cut, which'll be about 1/2 to 2/3 of the cost, then have it programmed at some other point.
