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Help me fix my audio decoder The pin in circle 1 has been loose
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Help me fix my audio decoder

The pin in circle 1 has been loose for a while and a rubber band around the plug is no longer doing the trick. I know how to solder and I have basic tools but the plate I'm guessing the connecting pin is actually supposed to be soldered to is loose.

If this is not easily fixable my idea is to simply put a ½cm wire between the pin and the capacitor (circle 2) but I'm not sure how to follow the lines. Is it just connected to the right one, both, or does it actually just run past to something else?

English isn't my first language so apologies if I'm not too hype on the technical terms.
>>
What exactly is the problem? What you describe sounds like a broken joint to me.
Just resolder the thing. Heat it up and let it cool off again.
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>>926145
When I wiggle the connector the entire thing (solder and pad included) go with it. It's not connected to the trace anymore.
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>>926127
>knows what a capacitor is
>doesn't know how to follow traces on a PCB
get whoever told you what a capacitor was to show you what traces look like

then get an adult to do the dangerous soldering

>>>/diy/ohm/
>>
it connects to the left pin labeled 2, and only the left pin, so just run a solid wire over the trace and solder at both ends. it's all 1000% obvious.
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>>926152
Oh wait. The dark lines are the sides of one trace and not two separate traces, right?

I feel like a moron right now.
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>>926162
Of course, you can skip the wire. Just use a sharp blade to scrape some of the green solder resist off of the trace (revealing copper) then solder the pin in question directly to the trace.
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>>926176
That's true, but I've already attached the wire and it's working! Also, this won't give in to stress.

Now I just have to do the same with the rest of the connectors, or get some hot glue.
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>>926127
>hold soldering iron on the broken joint until the solder is molten
>apply some fresh solder (preferably not lead free)

Problem solved.
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>>926162
>The dark lines are the sides of one trace and not two separate traces, right?
at that point i think you are just trolling, but nevermind.
In this case, you have a "lifted pad". Like someone already said, solder a solid piece of wire from the circled area to the left pin (next to your 2). This will eliminate the need of the whole trace from the circle to 2 and will provide solid connection between them.
Just make sure (with a multimeter) you didn't bridge any connections before powering your audio amplified dildo for the first time after the repair.
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