Brother told me my cable joints were unsafe and gave me these.
>>1019696
Yeah they are safe to use, otherwise it wouldnt be a fucking thing you can buy in a shop would it
>>1019699
True but I'm not sure how much they can handle and how they handle long term. Had a thread recently, most people there said one should only solder or cold solder or else oxidation and heat will build up and create a fire.
>>1019704
These can handle household mains wires
>>1019707
but check packaging, maybe i am wrong. never trust strangers on the internet.
>>1019707
Okay. How would it compare to the current joints? Twinned, isolated with three layers of hot glue and vulk tape.
sorry for being a dumb paranoid fag.
>>1019708
Only says 5A
most of these terminal blocks are safe for mains voltage. i am not responsible for any advice though use at your own risk.
if it was me i would use it on house mains and not exceed 5A. any higher and you risk fire
>>1019713
so it wont handle anything over 5A then
ie a single lamp is probably fine but not a computer
>>1019711
these are better than just twisted wires inside a rubber ball
anything is better than just twisted wires inside a rubber ball
>>1019720
joints exceeding 5A or 100000A, just solder the wires together, it will handle whatever the wire itself can handle
what is your use?
if more than 5A, forget about the terminal, use solder
if well under 5A, just use the terminal and wrap it with tape if you want but dont hot glue it
if close to 5A, just forget about the terminal, use solder
Isn't soldering forbidden for this kind of work?
>>1019726
ok why dont you tell us what exactly it is for
>>1019720
they make these blocks bigger that can handle more amps... i have one that handles 60A.
>>1019723
Why not hotglue? Isn't it great for isolation?
>>1019730
Because it's a pain to remove, messy and doesn't gain you anything over tape unless you're trying to waterproof it (and it doesn't even do that well)
>>1019730
first it is hot
second it is glue
nobody uses it, dont be a fucking special child
>>1019730
no i would not use hot glue lol
>>1019732
>>1019733
>>1019735
I wonder if someone trolled me then..
>>1019720
>how should I handle joints that exceeds 5A?
Use ones that can take more than 5A. They exist. I use them all the time, I find them handy enough. There are other solutions, I'm not saying they're the best, I just find them handy.
>>1019696
Look at the rating on them to determine the max current.
Soldering wires in your house is fine but it will require strain relief, as do terminal blocks as to twist ons as does all wiring.
Do not use hot glue do not use electrical tape do not use cable ties do not use string for house wiring it is not necessary it's just a waste
Do not tin (solder) wires if you want to use them in a screw terminal, use a bootlace ferrule or put a solid core wire on top if the wire is stranded.
>>1019755
i use thin wire that is stranded inside the blocks all the time, no need for solid core just shove the wire a little further in and it will be good.
>>1019696
You should listen to your brother, he has given you good advice.
>>1019720
>So terminal blocks with hotglue and vulk should ease my paranoia? (Really like my glue and tape)
No
Get the fuck out.
Are you the schizophrenic kid with the microphones?
>>1019704
You never solder mains. That is what causes fires. The weakest link becomes the solder instead of the breaker/fuse. You only use mechanical means to connect wires together on mains. Crimped butt joints are the best if you don't need to remove them for anything. Use the heat shrink type.
>>1019726
You are correct.
Solder will crack, heat up and set your house on for. Wires move a lot, terminal blocks + glue won't crack.
>>1019720
Buy a block that can handle the amps you need. They're cheaper than a slice of bread and you can get them at any rating. Also insurance hates people who don't use rated blocks.
>>1019794
You are wrong. If you use the NASA approved splicing method. Soldered joints should not have a negative effect on anything.
![00181763_0[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/XdQfDci.jpg "00181763_0[1].jpg")
FFS - if you are joining solid core mains cable? use pic related, W_A_G_O terminal connectors (Welcome to the 21st Century) and fucking stop already with this mountain of fucking BS about hot glue and fucking NASA approved soldering techniques and fuck knows what else for merde.
And if your house/mains wiring is not solid core? (ie stranded cable) - why, then, you fucked, get an elctrician, and rewire that shit already. Fucking hot glue, the very thought of that fucking mess, I despair.
>>1019799
>stranded cable
That's what you can use for stranded cable. (1/2)
>>1019799
>stranded cable
That's what you can use for stranded cable. (2/2)
>>1019805
>cable crimps
yeah, I can just picture OP carefully supergluing those on, with a liberal application of duct tape and sperg for good luck. Be easier rewiring.. I actually dunno if stranded cable house wiring is still a thing anywhere? only see it very seldom in odd corners not yet rewired in Yurope.
>>1019696
Safe joints; those I came across were certified up to 24A (the variant for 2.5mm2).
>>1019799
Safe, but for solid wire only.
>>1019730
Nope. If you want insulation and/or waterproof, the best choice is a self-fusing tape. It's designed for electrical insulation purpose, and unlike those shitty "electrical tapes", has a long (infinite?) lifetime.
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/NA_Communication_Technologies/Home/Products/~/Scotch-Electrical-Tape-23-19-mm-x-9-15-m?N=8694168+4294922059&rt=rud
>>1019720
If you need more than 5a then use multiple sockets on it. IE: using two of them gets you 10a.
Don't solder, it'll get too hot and cause problems.
Op here.
Conclusion. 5A terminal blocks for my lamps with self-fusing/vulkan tape, no glue and no solder? It all still works for stranded right?
>>1019822
you still havnt told us what it is for
>>1019846
I have refurbished and created some lamps. Most of them comes from the local trash dump, they often strip the cables and the armature before arriving there.
Pic related
>>1019856
All this shit for a fucking LAMP!!
Connector blocks are more than enough to handle that job, now get the fuck out of here.
>>1019867
Kek it's not only that. I have 3 laptop adapters and a portable heater that needs new cable.
>>1019822
> terminal blocks + tape
WHERE do you want to make the connection?
In a wall? In a junction box? On the table? Floating in the air? This IS important for your question.
I see absolutely no point in protecting the terminal blocks with any tape, or insulating them anyhow. It's because these are used inside boxes (mounting box? junction box? how are these things called in English?).
>>1019856
>>1019869
Light bulb: 100W → 100W/230V=0.5A
(anything will do)
Portable heater: 2kW → 2kW/230V=10A
(you need to be cautious)
>>1019856
> strip the cables
Just install a plug...
>>1019898
Everything is out in the open. The heater has a damaged cable just a couple of centimeters from the case. Everything is remote and will not be mounted.
I'm retard fag what does the plug do?
>>1019905
> The heater has a damaged cable just a couple of centimeters from the case.
Open the heater, replace cable
> what does the plug do?
Wtf?
>>1019905
>Everything is out in the open.
If you insist....
Then pic related. It's a cable joiner that is mounted by crimping with an appropriate tool. Usually these come with an insulation, but bare can be found as well.
Add to this a heat-shrinking tubing or self-fusing tape. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat-shrink_tubing)
Also, everything apart from a portable heater can just be soldered (if it's a stranded wire) and protected by double heat-shrinking tubing – for each wire & for whole cable (to both prevent from breaking by bending and to insulate).
But still, that's not advised. It's better just to replace the cable.
>>1019912
"Heat Shrink Butt Connector" seems to be the corresponding English name. I have absolutely no idea what it has to do with an arse…
Just solder the mains wire together.... what a retarded thing to say. Those blocks will have an amp rating written on them somewhere and id reccomend wrapping them in electrical tape, dont glue them like a div. I dont know what you mean by cable joints, but if you mean crimping there considerd a perminent connection and there pretty damn good. And before you all get ur jimmies in a twist im an electrician. Also id actually reccomend getting a qualified electrician to do whatever your considering doing because your quite obviously incompetent on the subject. Stick to what your good at, which isnt fuckin hot gluing connecter blocks.
>>1019696
Where are you? Local/national codes will dictate proper wiring methods. In USA, we use 'Wire Nuts' (twist-on connectors). But other countries don't allow those and prefer something like what you pictured. I say 'something like' because those long strips are mostly used for control wiring in panels, not mains wiring. Mains wiring screw terminals come in smaller groupings and are usually double or triple terminals ganged together. Use what the pros use or when there's a fire, the insurance people will just say 'Nope.'
Electrician here.
In order to give you an informed answer, you need to inform us.
What type of cable are you using?
>Solid core
>Stranded
>Flexible
What is the load?
>Less than 5A
>More than 5A
What is your supply voltage?
>110V
>240V
>SELV
>High-Voltage
Where is the join?
>Exposed
>Partially enclosed
>Totally enclosed
The connectors you have posted should be OK for pretty much anything domestic, as long as it's not going over 5A.
The other factors will effect how you can join the cable, and how you need to protect the joint. If this is done incorrectly, it might work just fine for many years before burning your house down suddenly. Or it might get red hot and catch fire as soon as it takes current.
>>1019912
>It's better just to replace the cable.
This.
But it's not always easy.
>>1019905
You're repairing an appliance?
Oh god.
Just buy a fucking new one.
Or call an electrician.
>>1019799
>If your house is not solid core get it rewired.
Uh in NZ and Australia the standard has been stranded since fucking forever since it's a gorrilions times easier to work with and is just as good as solid core, better even since it is way less brittle.
>>1019696
Never use solder for mains inline joints. Terminal blocks should really be housed in a box with strain relief. Personally, I crimp and solder stranded cables for terminal block and use pic related, or if feeling lazy use a locking inline connector.
>>1019898
You forgot to account for power factor
>>1020010
>You're repairing …
>Oh god.
>Just buy…
There should be a rule that would allow a permanent ban from /diy/ for this.
>>1020039
>stranded … easier to work with
Unless you want to use terminal blocks of any kind, as all are for solid core.
And unless you want to bend the wires so that it fits as you wish, not as the flexible cable wants to.
>>1020095
Power factor of a light bulb? Of an electric heater? Find better ways to troll, right now you made me laugh.
>>1019981
>Wire Nuts
I remember talking about those in a very good shop. These are for stranded wire only, right? And also, the guy behind counter made an impression on me that it's generally considered as a Bad Idea to use it for any real application.
You could have just Googled joining cables and not have had to wait for sensible replies.
Snip the blocks into 2x2 chunks, wire, wrap or place inside a housing. Joy and light.
My dad went through thousands of those things when I was a kid, extending all manner of tools and appliances reach. Never had a problem. They're safe to touch without due to the screw recesses, as long as no bare wire hangs out on either side. They have a hole in the middle of the 2x2 blocks for screwing to skirting boards, floors etc if it's a permanent fixture.
They come rated in different amperages which dictates the size of the block and the amperage rating is 5A at 240v in the UK. Meaning they can handle just over 1KW.
![dQRTXJ3[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/BEhiJSc.jpg "dQRTXJ3[1].jpg")
>>1020039
>the upside-down islands strike again
yeah, as mentioned a few posts later, wasn't sure if solid-core installation was indeed one of the very few standards _everyone_ actuallly agreed on, or if some band of backwards emu botherers were still insisting, The Earth is Flat & Stranded Ought be Used for Mains Installation. As theres always one, however, can you maybe clear up the following for the other 7 billion of us doin it wrong?
>'it's a gorrilions times easier to work with..'
like, how, xactly? Much the same as using solid core for trailing cable plug-in appliances where flex should/must be used (as solid be dangerous/trip over loops, etc.) - literally cannot think of one advantage - and plenty of disadvantages - maybe routing round a corner, but even thats debatable.
>>1020114
>These are for stranded wire only, right?
Approved for solid wiring in the USA (and Canada).
>the guy behind counter
In what country was this counter?
>>1020234
I'm guessing entire-rest-of-worldia, given it's only you yanks that use these things.
>>1020114
>>You're repairing …
>>Oh god.
>>Just buy…
>There should be a rule that would allow a permanent ban from /diy/ for this.
Ban from what suggesting to buy new or a noob repairing stuff?
>>1020114
Or you could just do your math properly, given this is an advice board.
>Electrical circuits containing dominantly resistive loads (incandescent lamps, heating elements) have a power factor of almost 1.0, but circuits containing inductive or capacitive loads (electric motors, solenoid valves, transformers, fluorescent lamp ballasts, and others) can have a power factor well below 1.
>>1020234
> In what country was this counter?
Poland.
Also, an OC photo: old terminal blocks – before plastic was cheap enough, the housing was made of ceramic. As you see, that's already a very well tested solution for joining wires ;-)
(2.5CU: 2.5 means 2.5mm2, CU means that the metal part was made of copper alloy; copper was very expensive in Poland until some 1975, that's why it's marked extra on a terminal block)
>>1020145
I believe there is a breakdown in communication here. "stranded" here means 7 individual copper conductors twisted together to make 1 conductor.
Power circuits here are typically wired with 2.5mm (squared) cable which when you compare 2.5mm stranded to solid there is not a lot of difference really but you can tell.
However, domestic consumer mains cables can be anywhere between 16mm to 35mm, can you start to see the benefit of using 35mm 7 stranded cable here? I couldn't even imagine 35mm(squared) solid core mains cable... it wouldn't even be cable more circular insulated busbar!!
What we call cord or flex is the conductor that is comprised of say 100 very small strands which is used for appliances typically.
If we want solid conductors for any reason and want the added headache we'll use MIMS.
>>1019704
They have amperage ratings.
A terminal block for a lamp repair? If the lamp is decent in any way you should be able to run new cord right to the socket. If you are unable to do that and/or replace the socket you probably shouldn't be playing with electric. If it is a unique fixture and you can only get to the portion of the wire and you have to make a splice use wire nuts or compression connectors, but make sure there is a know in the cord in the event the cord gets pull it does not put pressure on your connections, but rather the knot against the lamp itself.
Also don't forget to polarize the fixture. Your neutral conductor should go to the shell of the socket, the hot in the center tab at the base. The neutral is the wider part of the plug. Continuity tester will tell you which wire is which if you absolutely have to splice wires.
