Not sure if this general has been done before or not, but
Discuss locks, brands, technique, theory, etc
Beginner's Guide:
-lockpicking101.com is a good place to start
-You don't need a bunch of fancy stuff for lockpicking. A tension wrench, a small hook pick, and a half diamond pick work wonders. Save your money for locks
-be gentle
-a cheap deadbolt (Kwikset) with removable pins goes a long way in the beginning
Anybody know how to take the pins out of this thing? A basic Gatehouse deadbolt
>>1018042
Reverse side
>>1018042
not expert here but looks like there is no way to take that housing apart. there might be a master key [that a lock smith would have] that allows the lock barrel itself to slide out thus exposing the pins etc.
>>1018080
on 2nd look... is that possibly a snap ring (blue highlight in pic)? if so remove that and looks like maybe the barrel would slide out towards the front...
>>1018087
I've taken apart Kwikset locks, which are much easier
The idea behind taking it apart is to rearrange the pins, thereby giving more practice utility to the lock
>>1018094
Update: i was able to take the Gate House lock apart. >>1018082 was correct in that the ring held it together
I removed the ring, unlocked the lock, and PUSHED (towards the front) the barrel. Pic related
>>1018117
I uh, i can't seem to put it back together >.>
>>1018137
if you have the key you may be able to figure out the correct pin order so that they are flush to the top of the cylinder (barrel) so it would slide back in...
this is how locks are re-keyed... they put the new key in and use new pins until flush then re-assemble and bam! now the lock uses a different key then it did before.
in your pic you have 5 springs and 10 pins...
thinking the 5 pins that are the same lengths go in the upper holes (in the lock housing) along with the springs then the remaining 5 pins are arranged to fit the key.
>>1018152
rough diagram... the main idea is with the key inserted, the pins need to line up such that none of them cross over the line between the barrel and the housing thus allowing the barrel to turn which locks or unlocks the lock.
>>1018155
with the key removed the pins are pushed down by the springs. they no longer line up and thus the barrel will not turn.
![012-3-1[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/56PnJQC.jpg "012-3-1[1].jpg")
>>1018137
You didn't use a plug follower, did you?
Either buy one, or get a dowel that fits and make one.
The slot at the front is for loading the top-pins: insert the follower into the body, and hold it so the holes are in the bottom, and the keyway is tilted slightly downwards. Starting from the back, work a spring into the hole, sit the top pin in the slot in the follower, then push it downwards into the hole and rotate the follower to hold it there. Push the follower forward, turn it back, and repeat.
Once all your top pins are loaded, push the key into the plug, drop the key pins on top of it and check alignment, then butt the plug up against the follower, line it up so the pins in the plug and the pins in the body *do not* line up, and use the plug to push the follower back out the back. Put back whatever device holds the core in.
That's your lock reassembled. Turn the key back and take it out.
>>1018080
Obviously, if you lack a master key, alls you gotta do is pick it.
>>1018043
Remove the snap ring from the back, stick key in, or pick the lock, and turn a little so the cylinders that house the pins aren't in line, slide out the cylinder and follow it with a plug follower, a good cheap solution is one of those Vicks nasal inhalers.
![latest[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/EuzAAue.jpg "latest[1].jpg")
>>1018253
>>1018259
Shit
