First Prints Edition
Old thread >>996960
>open source community
http://reprap.org/
http://forums.reprap.org/
>buyfag buyers guide
https://www.3dhubs.com/best-3d-printer-guide
Any number of Reprap kits out there
>basic 3d printing FAQs
https://opendesignengine.net/projects/vg3dp/wiki (lots of useful stuff)
http://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/wiki/index
>what kind of filament do I want
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/28-material-guide
http://www.matterhackers.com/3d-printer-filament-compare
>why do my prints look like shit, visual troubleshooting
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide
>how to calibrate
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/30-getting-better-prints
https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer
http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/
http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter's_Calibration_Guide
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_Wb0i0-Qvo
>where do I get files to print?
https://www.yeggi.com/
https://www.youmagine.com/
http://www.thingiverse.com/
https://www.myminifactory.com/
>what programs do you make your own files with
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing
http://www.openscad.org/
http://www.freecadweb.org/
https://www.blender.org/
https://www.onshape.com/
https://www.tinkercad.com/
http://www.123dapp.com/
>where to buy genuine hotends
http://www.filastruder.com/collections/e3d-hotends (USA E3D reseller)
http://e3d-online.com/ (E3Ds regular site, yuro based)
http://hotends.com/ (genuine J-Head seller)
https://www.printedsolid.com/shop/printer-parts/hexagon/ (hexagon)
https://www.b3innovations.com/ (pico)
http://www.dta-labs.com/products/prometheus-v2 (prometheus)
https://www.lulzbot.com/catalog/budaschnozzle-20 (budaschnozzle)
>where to buy filament
http://pushplastic.com/
http://www.jet-filament.com/
http://www.makergeeks.com/
http://www.reprap.cc/
Having some quality issues on my makerbot replicator. I releveled the build plate and lowered the z offset (to hopefully print without rafts b/c prints don't stick otherwise). Anything I should do / check?
>>1005201
Looks like overextrusion
>>1005201
What the fuck is up with your initial layer?
What are your initial layer settings?
Looks like you are overextruding and running too hot. Your layers arent cooling before you put more plastic on it causing it to bow out and leave oozes.
Do you have a print fan?
>>1005206
Yeah, I am new to 3D printing but I think it's overextrusion too. The "smart" extruder leaks filament when it shouldn't (after loading new filament but when sitting idle). Any idea on what might be causing it / how to fix? The makerbot conditions me to cry to support rather than figure it out myself and I'm sick of it. I am putting together a rep rap machine right now but I still want the makerbot to be functional as well.
>>1005209
What do you mean by initial layer? The small, printed base is called the raft (in the makerbot software at least) and I just used the default settings for both the raft and the temperature. The extruder is the infamous Makerbot "Smart" extruder (just found out about the smart extruder+ and want to get a free upgrade with all these problems) on the makerbot replicator and it has a fan but might not be working right. How would I check / fix it running too hot?
>>1005230
Ah, I just wasnt thinking. Every time I have used a raft it was just the same initial layer setting just pushed out. It didnt put out huge thick lines.
As for oozing at idle, that is a sign of a poor hotend.
I replaced my shit hotend on my reprap with a good one, and it doesnt ooze or string at all.
I have never used the makerbot software so I dont know the extent of print options you can change.
To change your esteps to adjust your extrusion, for a reprap it is done in firmware or it is done during your slicing and building of the Gcode.
Temperature and layer settings are chosen during slicing of Gcode
From a quick google it looks like makerbot uses a proprietary Gcode format, so you have to use their slicer or you have to get a converter to convert gcode from other slicers.
Temperature is going to be in the settings somewhere.
Knowing what temperature you should be running at depends. You have to know your printer, how fast you are printing, and your particular roll of filament.
>>1005230
I've used makerbot fifth gens before. That first layer looks perfectly fine to me, as it uses an odd crosshtching I've never seen on any other printer.
That being said, 5th gens are garbage. Assuming you are using the current firmware (which fixed this issue), try slowing the printer down and maybe lowering temps.
Anyone setup Astroprint on a Pi?
Flashed the image, but the wifi signal never shows up to connect to it.
>>1005201
Is that HIPS? I never really had great results with them compared to hatchbox's PLA
>>1005436
Anything below Pi3 doesn't have an integrated wifi card.
>>1005277
>>1005234
>>1005209
>>1005206
Tried the same print again 15°C lower (at 200°C) and 15mm/s lower (at 135 mm/s). I also upped the fan power. It came out better but I'm sure there are more problems and i can improve print quality even more. The weird thing about this one was the "steps" on the side and top that I think ideally should be smooth (I'm not sure though). Any idea what could be causing it or is it just the model?
>>1005518
It's actually PLA
>>1005606
Side view of "steps" (on the top esp. but also on the edge)
>>1005607
Top view as well
>>1005436
>Astroprint
Ive never heard of it, but I have used Octoprint on my B+ for a long time and its worked alright.
Maybe ill flash it and see how it is.
I'm a repetierfag, but having 3 windows open to run 3 printers is tough, and octopi the, while nice, is really only good for one printer.
What do you guys think of repeater server? I've tried it a little bit, but I think I'm missing a bit of it, and it seems to work for multiple printers
Asked this a while back. I've got a model that refuses to print. Sliced it up in Netfabb, and the first few printed fine, but all the ones I've tried afterwords just never start. All the slicing programs appear to do their job, but when I put it into the machine it doesn't respond. Just sits there, not even starting to heat up. Tested it with some other models from the internet, and those worked fine, so its not the machine as far as I can tell.
Holy fuck, the little connector for the heating bed just fucking melted. Saw a little bit of smoke rising and holy shit, that thing is a pile of slag now. Jesus christ.
>>1005663
It happens routinely. The plug is only rated for 10a
It pulls 11a, and most people use much too thin wire.
Dont throw your Ramps out though.
Just buy a new terminal, and solder it onto the board.
I bought a blue 15a snap together one at radioshack, right as they were shutting down in my area. Then started using 14 AWG gauge wires for the heat bed.
>>1005664
Gonna need to make a trip to the hobby store later. I thought it was steam from my coffee at first, but then I remembered that I made it a half hour ago and went full panic mode.
>>1005665
I didnt even smell or see mine when it happened.
I just noticed that the heated bed was taking forever to heat up. And then when my print was close to done I wondered why the heated bed was reading 25c
Once everything was cool, I started disassembling it to see if I broke the wire for the bed and the green plug wouldnt budge.
I pulled hard and it came out and crumbled in my hand.
Its an annoying flaw to say the least. Hardwired terminals vs a plug is a a pain in the ass when you look at the electronics.
Is anyone else printing out a project or bigger sets of prints?
Im currently printing the parts for the Mostly Printed CNC.
Got the majority of the main carriage done.
~25 hours and about 500 grams of plastic. Got most of the big parts done.
Supports left a lot of artifacts and that purple disappearing glue creates a fucking mess. But everything so far is going together pretty well.
>>1005654
Upload the gcode to an online gcode viewer.
>>1005689
The thing just started working again. No idea why. But then one of the terminals on the PCB melted so Im still fucked.
>>1005654
Okay, I've heard of this happening 3 times now (twice here, once with a friend). I'm getting concerned.
What printer? What condition? What did you do / what did it do prior to melting?
>>1005684
How much purple glue are you using?
I had messes and awful prints for a my first few goes with purple glue until I figured out that the whole thing worked better with a thin smudge of it applied while the bed was still cold.
It honestly looked like a more like a massive fingerprint than a layer of purple glue
>>1005692
Chinese i3, so it was a matter of time. Thing has worked fine before. It was just the plastic terminal that runs the heat bed, as far as I can tell from the mess of wires. It was just doing a job, didn't notice anything out of the ordinary until I saw the plume of smoke.
>>1005692
im
>>1005668
An old aluminum prusa i3 built couple years ago with the electronics mounted on the frame.
standard old MK2 heated bed.
Had some sort of lamp cable, so probably 18AWG. It was very poor cable with thick plastic on it.
From what I gathered at the time, it happens because PSU -> Ramps plug wires are too thin or the connection isnt strong..
You pull a lot of power through short runs of wires that are too thin or contact is bad , they heat up hot past the point that the plug can take.
Go to the store and buy 12 AWG wire, it is the biggest you can fit into the stock green plug.
It is what I am using on my second Ramps with the stock plug and it doesnt heat up.
I use 14 AWG on my main printer because the terminal I soldered in only takes 14AWG, and it seems to do OK and the terminal is 15a rated.
I saw a lot of people using multiple strands of like 22AWG, or using a small wire jumper on the plug.
Dont do that
Four 12AWG wires, one for each terminal on the plug, and youll be fine.
Install thicker wire on your heated bed and it might heat up quicker too.
>>1005701
I am using more than I usually do. I have an aluminum bed so I am forced to use blue tape. Since the bed is not perfectly flat, sometimes the adhesion fails during the print if I dont use glue.
Im using extra glue because im doing like 10 hour prints with several parts, or really big parts and I dont want them to fail.
The parts are going to take 1.9 KG of plastic, so 2 whole rolls. If I have a failure of a big part I am gonna have to finish with the start of a 3rd roll in a different color.
It does make it a pain in the ass to remove and makes the bottoms ugly but it prints ok
>>1005606
Looks like there are a couple things you could try, although the easy fix to minimize stepping is to increase the print resolution. After that just try slowing down the print speed to say 50mm/s and then work your speed up from there (the edge and layer straightness seems pretty inconsistent right now). To get rid of the gaps that you can see in the top view try either increasing flow rate or the top/bottom infill. Also I'm not entirely sure but I think for pla its never really a bad thing to cool the filament too quickly so you could also try just bumping the fans up to 100 after you get past your raft.
>>1005199
I'm building a rostock, but with a reinforced frame.
>>1005938
>heavy steel frame
>doesn't actually reinforce the bearings
Should've used supported rails and attached them to the frame.
>>1005598
I've got a 3 and a B+. Added an adapter to the B+. It just never shows up. Tried to edit the config directly, but without it running the setup the image is just sitting there. Actually even had the same wifi adapter as their tutorial laying around from when I used a Pi as a media server. May give up and drag out an ethernet cable and then hope it lets me to the configs once its unpacked its shit.
>>1005628
It is built off Octoprint as far as I can tell. It just adds in a bit of a nicer interface and some auto configs for different printers and some mobile device friendliness.
I think you can still get to the more advanced features as well it just layers the menus a bit. I've heard it works a bit better with Flashforge than Octoprint so was my hope. Since I know Octo uses Cura and without a good profile Cura really fucking hates my printer.
I'll probably just end up using the PC for slicing still, but its nice to have a backup and something to try other than Slic3r. May shell out for Simplify3D, but I'm not sure how much difference it would make now that I've muscled through Slic3r interface to learn.
>>1005938
Damn son, gonna have a pretty tall vertical print volume.
Is it your first printer or is this just a project you are doing?
>>1005967
>May shell out for Simplify3D
Ive been using a pirate version of it, you can easily find a direct link on a reddit pirate page if you google it.
The toolpaths dont seem any better than Cura or Slic3r, but it does automatically generated support better than any other slicer I have used.
I really hate the interface, its dumbed down. Once you open it up to fine tune settings, the interface is actually really confusing.
Cura and Slic3r are both so much better in terms of advanced settings interfaces. You would think expensive software with draconian DRM would have been built nicer
![rostock-delta-robot-3d-printer-1[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/xBR9qHx.jpg "rostock-delta-robot-3d-printer-1[1].jpg")
Are the delta designs worth the extra cost?
Look it's Ham Solo
>>1006024
The edges of my mouth gained altitude.
Has anyone worked with the Mightboard rev G on a replicator 2? I am trying to hook up a motor to the extruded B port but can't find any guides on what the 8 pins are or even, if I get it connected, how to add to the g code to make the motor turn.
Has anyone worked with a Prusa i3 gt2560? I'm trying to get the heated bed to work on repetier, but the temperature won't increase, unlike the extruder head. I'm not sure where to start troubleshooting.
>>1006001
They aren't necessarily more expensive
>>1006112
Still more complex (more time needed to set up right and time = money) and usually actually more more expensive.
So are they worth it or not?
>>1006121
Are are a much simpler design with less moving parts.
Its said they are marginally harder to calibrate, but ive worked with both and dont actually believe that. They are vastly different, one is not really harder than the other you just have to learn a whole nother calibration.
And as for cost, maybe if you are talking about chinese acrylic I3 kits which are an anomaly.
If you are building a decent printer, all printers have the baseline of the electronics and hotend.
When comparing to a rigid boxed cartesian, you need less steppers, you need less extruded aluminum, you need less rods and pretty much everything else.
When talking about a prusa i3 design, you again need much less material, and a CNCed sheet of metal is many times gonna cost more than a few pieces of extruded aluminum.
Of course people building Deltas as a second or third printer for fun arent going to try and make it as cheap as possible.
Only you can decide if its worth it to you. Do you want a low build volume for higher speed?
if I were to mount a linear guide on the top and have the belts mounted on the side via some L-shaped gantry would that cause torque when moving?
Currently the guide is mounted on the side.
>>1006142
What I meant by a L-shaped block. This would make routing belts easier for the corexy set up but I'm worried about additional forces on the linear guide since it's being pulled from off center.
![s-l1600[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/3jfsT6S.jpg "s-l1600[1].jpg")
>>1006040
>I already have a delta with rails and I hate it.
I should have been more clear. Not those stupid v-bearing strips. Actual bearing rod on a support.
>>1005684
Which bearings will you use on your MPCNC? I'm wondering if it's worth it to upgrade to ceramic bearings but they're so much more expensive. The kit he's selling seems to include them.
>>1006173
I couldnt justify the price of ceramic bearings.
The only reason he has Boca brand bearings in his kit is because the contest he won was put on by Boca Bearings. He won 5 grand, and im sure they are selling him bearings at cost for the kits. Its just small time advertising for the Boca brand.
The bearings I bought that are in that pic, they are just standard 608-2RS I got on Ebay.
I wanted as cheap as possible without having to buy from china and waiting 60 days.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOT-OF-100-bearings-ABEC-5-608-mislabel-/252405544016
It shipped fast, took maybe 5 days since its from puerto rico. At ~25 cents a piece it was as cheap as you are gonna get for this quantity of bearings without buying from china. And even then you are still gonna pay a good 20-21 cents a piece.
Sucks needing 53 bearings, when most of the quantities are like 10-20-50-100.
I decided to opt for 100 bearings, price was ok and 608 is so standard for a lot of 3d printed stuff itll be nice to have them laying around.
Just an FYI I emailed the guy about the "mislabeled" thing
They are actually 608-2RS even though they say 608-RS
They have 2 rubber shields, one on each side. A 608-RS would indicate there is only one shield on one side. Also its supposed to have a brand name on them called "Flex", look at his other items, he sells "Flex" branded bearings of different abec ratings.
I am pretty happy with the bearings and think they are gonna work perfectly fine. They feel just as quality as any expensive skateboard bearings I have bought when I was younger.
Best 3D printer kit?
Is Folgertech good?
>>1006196
Folgertechs cheap kits are perfectly fine, were extremely popular when they first came out.
Even the aliexpress and ebay kits can put out some real nice prints.
If it were me I would get the Folgertech with the 2020 aluminum frame. The biggest flaw of cheaper kits is the acrylic frame. It works fine but isnt rigid enough for high speeds. The aluminum should be more rigid, and it would be much easier to brace.
I have considered buying one since they are so cheap, and then getting more extruded aluminum and re-configuring the frame it into a boxed printer.
So a friend of mine wants to build a 3D printer. Not buy a kit, but build one. I can print the non-electronic/mechanic parts for him on my printer, but what would you all recommend would be a good design? Preferably something that exists and I can grab the plans instead of designing it myself.
>>1006229
i3?
>>1006234
From what he's said, it sounds like he wants the base to be printed; I wouldn't recommend him the acrylic frame, and the metal one would probably be costly to get made (I don't know as I have never needed steel cut, though).
>>1006236
You can just make the frame out of alu extrusion ala Folgertech
>>1006229
Really depends on how much how big and all that.
>>1006236
Most printer frames arent printed because its more expensive and weaker than other readily available stuff.
I always thought the Tantillus was cool, but very expensive for what you get out of it. I mean it costs as much as a full size printer because nominal pricing for electronics steppers and such. Then you just throw 60$ worth of plastic for the frame.
>>1006241
I have wanted to build an alu extrusion printer for a while. Really want to do this, but just run regular reprap stuff in it.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:811271
I think its a pretty great design
>>1006242
That looks neat but kind of unwieldy. I assume he'd want to start small, since he's only been exposed to 3D printing through me; I've never really been one to skimp on cost, but he wants to make it a reasonable tradeoff between cheap and accurate seems like. From what I've head/read/etc., roughly $200 seems like the "average" price point for an "okay" printer - is this correct? Or am I way off?
>>1006245
Neat. Will take into consideration.
>>1006241
Extrusions solely depend on where you live. In the US, 8020 inc is a big supplier, possibly not the cheapest. In the EU, I know that there is one online shop with great prices that ships anywhere, but their shipping fees are a bit high, some 15 eur, probably worth it still if you buy everything at once. However, I forgot what they are called, but I found them via google. I personally buy them locally, after a whole lot of search I found a very nearby supplier with prices that rival everything but China.
>>1006249
>Or am I way off?
About 220$ is bare minimum to buy a cheap KIT printer.
You cannot and will not get parts as cheap as the chinese factories.
These are relative prices but pretty close.
Ramps and Drivers -25
PSU -25
Steppers -50
Hotend -40
Heated bed -15
From there you have to build a whole frame and exrtruder assembly based.
Threaded rods, smooth rods, bearings, leadscrews, whatever you decided to use. Youll be spending 10-15$ for orders of these on ebay.
This is where you get nickel and dimed to death. I mean you are gonna be spending 10-15$ for the hardware for an extruder, 15-20$ on pulleys and belts.
Extrusion isnt cheap, hardware to put the extrusion together isnt cheap.
You pay a premium to put stuff together with hardware nuts and bolts, or you pay a premium to someone who put the kit together. Or you have to buy in huge quantities enough for 5-10 printers to get the hardware cheaper.
Before the acrylic kits became available, all kits were $600+
And you were looking good to build your own for about $400
I would put the realistic budget at 400-450$
>>1006229
Fusebox (the 1515 version).
You can shop around and put it together for around $370 or so. I've budgeted it myself before deciding to go for something better.
>>1006256
>Meanwhile, I just scored a TwoUp on craigslist for 100 bucks with nothing wrong with it but a crappy fan mount.
Never discard craigslist.
>>1006279
Honestly, once you are spending that baseline money on the core reprap hardware, might as well go all in and put it on a decent frame.
Have you seen this?
It is a steel i3 frame that replaces 90% of the printed parts, and it comes with the frame rods and hardware.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3D-printer-Kit-Reprap-P3STEEL-Prusa-i3-Frame-Stainless-Steel-Rods-Hardware-/252353613688
Its a very good frame to populate, and will end up with a pretty good printer in the end.
>>1006283
That actually doesn't look half bad, thanks for the link.
>>1006283
>>1006286
I self-sourced a reprap, originally going with an acrylic frame because of cost. It was a false economy, and a huge mistake. After laying plastic for around 6-8 months, I gave in and ordered the P3Steel frame.
Wish I'd done it from the start. I've been using it all of this year and it works wonderfully. Building on a proper, square, rigid frame just solves so many of the problems with FDM technology.
Does anyone have experience with the metal extruders you can get on Ebay?
The extruder, gear, 2 push connectors, and a motor L bracket for less than 10$ shipped.
My Airtripper has worked fine since I printed it, but its a pain in the ass to change filament. The metal extruders look pretty nifty.
>>1006369
I do. And, oddly, that particular type of extruder is probably the most reliable Chinese item I have ever purchased. The drive gear looks terrible, but it actually works really well. I've even added a little printed antinuclear and have printed flexible filaments on it, Bowden style, just fine.
>>1006434
>antinuclear
?
Whoops.
Antibuckler
I guess autocorrect doesn't help when I just make up the words.
>>1006369
That looks like the Mk8 or Mk10 extruder, whatever they call it these days. There's minor variations of it I guess. It's a solid design for a direct drive but I've never seen it used as a bowden.
>>1006438
There is no reason why it wouldnt bowden well
>>1005976
That seems a bit sad. I've not used any support material yet. But I do like Slic3rs rather robust options.
Thanks for the heads up.
>business savvy father has offered to buy me 3d printer if I can prove I can make money off of it
>I honestly have no idea how but I really want one
What should I tell him?
>>1006547
The best way would be to sell something you created and maintain exclusivity. Otherwise you're probably talking chump change for something that takes a ton of time
>>1006547
3D hubs is pretty useful, but competition is feirce. I've made a couple hundred bucks, but mainly because I have 5 printers and a monopoly where I live.
If you are in a major city, there will always be a bigger hub with more reviews and better prices.
>>1006547
-Sell time on your printer
-use it to make functional/fancy objects, and then cast them for rapid reproduction
-make prop replicas and sell them on esty for ~$200+
-print parts for more printers and then sell them as kits.
>>1006614
Do you have any tips to actually get orders on 3D Hubs? I've had an account for nearly a year, several high-resolution photos, and prices competitive to my area.
Based on my view counts and ranking, I've got a feeling that no one in my area is looking at my page, just people from other (distant) cities.
>>1006547
>What should I tell him?
Tell him you'll suck his dick.
>>1006547
People dont actually understand the FDM printing process, and the quality/finish/limitations they have.
This results in you having mad customers expecting something different than what you provide them, especially at the premium you have to charge them.
Fuck that noise, especially for the work it takes to actually pump out prints.
>>1006649
>make prop replicas and sell them on esty for ~$200+
How do people manage to do this on a regular basis and not get the pants sued off of them? Anybody ever heard of a case where this went bad and they got sued for infringement?
>>1006654
3D printing is new enough that, while every industry needs it, not everyone knows they need it.
I am kind of cheating because I'm actually a registered LLC, and in a place with about three other printers (one of which is a printrbot simple, one that's a makerbot 5th gen, and the other thats a TwoUp), I am pretty much the only place to go for any real part production.
One of the best ways to get views is to be unique. Here is a couple tips on how to actually monetize printing:
1: Photos look nice, but when you get right down to it, quality is more important. Its easy to get good parts with PLA, but expand that a bit. I do Polycarbonate, ABS, PLA, PETG, Weed wacker line, Nylon... if it fits in the printer, I can run it. I will tell you, something I have found is that with bigger nozzles and layer sizes, (like 1mm or .4 layer height) everything looks a lot better.
2: In this realm, you have to make costumers, not just get them. I live near a College, and I sell a lot of parts to people who need them for projects (since the college only prints in ABS on their Stratasys Jewprints). I am a student there because no one wants to hire me because muh mechanical engineering degree is a dime a dozen, but I also take time out of my schedule to go to the local high school and do guest lecturing about 3D printing and how to design for it. After doing that a few times, I made about $150 repairing their Makerbot.
3: Do your own R&D. I'm currently messing around with a filament extruder to try and turn some new engineering plastics into filament to use. Much of the R&D my team and I do results in new products, projects, and revenue streams outside of the standard "lol I can print in PLA on my toaster oven".
4: Also, be professional. Partly because we're an LLC, we do work with corporations in the area, and make prototypes and models for them. If you are trying to act like a maker around corporate folks, your gunna git fuked. Buy a suit and tie.
cont>>
>>1006703
5: If you have multiple printers, don't get a million of the same. My 5 printers, one of which is a garbage repstrap, are all for different purposes. The Repstrap is 8x8x10, my first printer, and shakier than a leaf with ADHD. The Second printer is designed with High Temp stuff in mind, and i've managed to get the hotend up to 375C, and I'm looking at sourcing PEEK filament. The other is a TwoUp, but its still alright for ABS, PLA, and other little stuff for overflow production. The other two (of which only the hardware is done (I need to wire everything), one is an I3 with a Diamond hotend with RGB color, and the other is another, better repstrap with a build area of 24"x20"x20", for PLA only and big stuff. Diversify your printers, and dont just build a million Ultimakers or a million TAZes. Hell, build a CNC router or laser cutter if you have to.
6: Be active in the community. Get on here, as well as Reddit's 3dprinting news, follow the news for 3D printing. Help people who are trying to build printers build them, even if they might compete with you. I've been working with another local startup and while we are two seperate entieties, they do a little bit of printing, and are mostly web Dev, and we are more printing heavy. We helped them get their printer up and running to help clients, and they helped us design our website. Build good faith.
>>1006708
Also, don't discount distant states; i've sold parts to people from New Jersey to South Carolina.
>>1006703
>weed whacker line
Wait, really? How is that "clean" enough to put into the printer?
>larger layers look nicer
How so? 0.1 looks better than 0.2, but 0.05 looks worse, so I see where you're going, but I'd expect that that's an exception.
>sell parts to university students
This is what I'm wanting to do when I get back after break.
>>1006708
>diversify
Is there a particular reason for this? I'd think that having all of the same printer would let you focus more on QC of them rather than having to learn the issues with all of the different kinds.
Any suggestions/advice on how to start an LLC? When I've looked into it it's mostly been heavy legalese, I might just be looking in the wrong places though.
>>1006703
>>1006708
Very interesting.
- How do you price your prints? Do you just eyeball it or do you go by print time + used filament?
- What do you use to make your prints stick to the bed? especially ABS? ABS juice/slurry? Do you have different colours of ABS slurry for different colours of filament?
- Do you have any pictures of cool stuff you have done with Diamond hotend
- What slicer do you use?
>>1006748
- There are actually four of us at the company, and we all have our own specialties. I mainly build and repair the printers and do R&D. Someone else sets the prices, but as of now, the way we do it is we ignore labor, time, etc, and just add a bed charge of $5 and then multiply the price of material by ten. it sounds like a lot, but a little 1 cubic inch phone case in ABS, at $0.25/in^3 comes out to $7.50, which, while on the low side, keeps us competitive and is reasonable. Its also stupid simple to calculate, and when you are dealing with freshman student who just want a little brace for their quadcopter, you don't want to hit them with a service charge and a print time charge, etc.
- my go-to material is ABS and always has been. I used to use Kapton, but I eventually swapped to buildtak. BuildtaK worked a little too well, and after ripping up like a dozen buildtak plates I went for broke and bought a PEI sheet. PEI sheets are literally god's grace in laminate form. If the bed is level, ABS will never peel. This is especially useful for stuff like Polycarbonate that warps like crazy. PEI works for ABS, PLA, TPU, TPE, PETG, Nylon Polycarbonate and PVA like a charm.
- I'm still waiting on the diamond hotend, but the printer itself is pretty much done. As of now, the three functioning printers are the repstrap, the High temp one, and the TwoUp. The rest are almost done, but realistically I will probably post here looking for advice when issues arise, so stay tuned.
- I used to be a Diehard Slic3r fan, but Cura is a million times better. The only thing I wish Cura would be better on is its stupid dual extruder settings, because the way it is, it just doesn't work correctly in previews. Plus, Slic3r has had 3D infill for about a year now, and Cura is just about to release theirs, so they are a bit behind the power curve.
building a T-slot ultimaker clone, which is pretty much done at this point. I'm just going with RAMPS to control it, so I'll be playing with the firmware for a while.
i'm using the d9 output to control the print fans, but they don't agree with anything less than 100% duty cycle. Anyone know the pwm frequency that mega/ramps running marlin uses by default?
or failing that, just some basic values for an RC or RLC circuit that's known to work?
>>1006736
- Weedwacker line is not to the same tolorance as standard filament, so it fluxes from the standard 1.3mm to 1.8mm when it is listed as 1.6mm. There is some poisonous stuff that comes from running that, but since it's basically just nylon, the same precautions should be taken. I just use a well ventilated area.
- From my experience, the big layers make things look i don't know, "more 3D printed" and thus, they seem more "high tech." theres a sort of elegance to the big layers, especially on vases, that people seem to appreciate.
- The biggest reason for diversification is so you can hit as many revenue streams as possible. This is especially nessissary if you are going to any college town, as many college towns have 3D print labs that you have to compete with. My guess, is that is they have money, that lab has uPrints or some stratasys machine. These printers, if they are being provided to students for free, will typically have limitations on size or a process that defers people from just printing a pack full of dicks. If the college is poor, or "new age", they will have either a TAZ, an ultimaker, or a rostock (as these, currently, are some of the highest quality open source machines). This is what I'm up against, as the college I am selling to is offering free 3D printed parts in ABS and PLA to all students. As a result, to stand out in the market, we needed to diversify and do color prints, engineering thermoplastics, bigger prints, PCB etching, etc. while still being cheap enough to make the sale. If you have an ABS/PLA printer and you are competing with Free ABS/PLA printers, you will lose 80% of the time.
Learning the issues with all the different kinds is what makes you better at all the different kinds, and that's what give you that market.
Making an LLC is easyer or harder based on what state you are in. I would say, however, that you do not do it alone. If you are really interested I could go into more detail.
>>1006793
I'm definitely interested in hearing more. Thank you for sharing your knowledge so far.
I'd like to know more about your experiences with the LLC process as well. One of my best friends and I are both active 3D printers (pic related, some of my prints), and have been wanting to form an LLC for a year or so now. I'm not sure if this is relevant to your experience, but we are in South Carolina, USA.
>>1006930
SC, huh? I'm in Virginia, so the process won't exactly be the same, but the general process will be.
Step 0 is always to decide if you actually want to do it. An LLC isn't really something you can just pick up and drop when you get bored; there are taxes to file, and, if there are two of you, you will probably will be wearing many hats. Our company is 4 people, and I do almost all the hardware and printer related stuff, and the rest of our team has their hands full with legal stuff, finance management, PR, website, social media... 75 percent of running a printing business is running the business, not printing. If you guys are going to do it, you both need to commit to to everything in your power to keep that bisuness going until you either run out of options, money, or get sued.
After that, you need capital. While /biz/ might be better to explain it, you can either fund it yourselves, which takes money, or get investors to fund it, which means you will get a huge amount of funding and be sucking investor cock for the next 2 years. The backfire there is that the investors have you by the balls, and even if the company goes under, they expect their money back. For this reason, we decided to fund it ourselves. We all threw in 500 dollars and said "let's see what we can do" investors will hook you up with tens of thousands of dollars, but we wanted the autonomy, so we opted to all be 25% owners.
From there it's on to forming a bisuness plan, or more specifically, an operating agreement. I'm a scatterbrained weirdo, so I generally just go with the flow, but this is critical. If there is two of you, it's less important than if you have 4, or 20. What you are trying to do is get everyone on the same page, and write up a constitution that anyone can refer to to keep the others in line. Typically lawyers will offer to do this and mediate, but at 300 $/hr, we did it ourselves. This is not a legal requirement, but if you don't do it, your taking a huge risk.
Cont
>find models i really would like to print
>they cost money
Damn you
>>1006980
What site are you using?
>>1006982
One is on turbosquid and the other two I want are on figgol
>>1006979
Next step is zoning laws. We officially operate out of one of our houses, but the printers are in all of our houses. Check with your landlord, and see if the location of the LLC can actually be legally registered. Of the 4 of us, only one can legally register as the bisuness address. If you can't get it in house, you need to find another space, which could get costly.
The next thing to do is actually form the LLC, and that's surprisingly easy; here in VA, we have a web form and it will automatically register you with the state. I'm not sure if SC has something similar, but it might. There is generally a filing fee of some kind, for us it was $100. Not brutal, but not pocket change. What this does is it gets you something called articles of organization. It's a couple little sheets of paper that you keep at your bisuness's address to say you run them. It becomes more important if you ever get employees but that's probably a ways off.
Congratulations you have an LLC! But before you Pop that champagne, you need to get permits and file for taxes. Our Legal guy did this for us so I don't know too much about the process but it involves working with the courthouse. The government is good at taking your money so I'm sure they would be more than happy to help you file for taxes.
Big things I would advise is to
1) not fall into the pitfall of thinking it will all be sunshine and rainbow filament. The four of us have been working like crazy applying for grants, advertising, finance, banking, philanthropy, talking to companies, monitoring taxes, printers, PR, and, oh yea, and we're all full time students too.
2) Do whatever it takes to not get sued. 80% of the free software you use like student licenses or thingiverse parts is under a non commercial license, so if you try and use them you can get in serious trouble, and the funny thing about lawyers is they don't just go after the company... They'll go after you, even if you an an LLC.
Cont Thanks word limit
>>1006989
3) realize you probably won't make your money back for a few years. This is a very volatile industry. You could be the kickstarter failure of the month and lose it all, or be lulzbot and be king of the world. It's a risk, not a get Rich quick scheme.
4)lawyers have their time and place, but are genererally not nessissary. They are a pricy sink, so be cautious, but if you need the. You need them.
5) if you aren't having fun, your doing something wrong. You're your own boss. I have the title of "hackerlord" on top of my official one. Have some fun with it, especially if you are advertising to college students.
And lastly, know that you will probably get into fights. You won't always agree, and sometimes it's for the best. Like I said, I've almost made a bunch of stupid decisions. Trust yourself, trust your friend, but don't be afraid to call him on his bullshit if he deserves it, and know tat it might happen to you as well.
Anything else you want to know?
>>1006785
>>1006793
Thanks so much for taking the time to answer all these questions, really appreciate.
Barely anybody, even the engineering students, know that we have a printing lab on campus at the university; even then it's strictly for senior projects or research, and we have a cap of 50in^3 for the whole year (or close to that), so thankfully I won't have much competition unless somebody else decides to do the same I'm wanting to do. I do want to get a Kraken head to be able to do 3 colours + supports, but I have to first get enough guaranteed orders that I can buy it.
I'm also interested in learning more about the LLC, but in am located in AZ.
>>1006979
>>1006989
>>1006992
So I'm not at all experienced in the business side of things; you said a lot of it is finance management/PR/social media: if I can get clients through word-of-mouth and my money is managed, by, say, pessimistically setting 25% of it for taxes (initially) and counting the rest as spending money, what is left to do in that respect?
>zoning laws
Will have to look into those myself, can't expect you to know much about a state halfway across the country.
>taxes
Will need an adviser with that, but I'm sure I can find somebody I know who'd be willing to help out.
>lawyers is they don't just go after the company... They'll go after you, even if you an an LLC.
This... is troubling. A large reason why I've heard lots of people form LLCs is specifically if something goes horribly wrong they can just close up shop and write the entire company off as a loss, but they themselves can't be touched. Could you elaborate please?
>anything else you want to know?
I'm planning for this to be a one-person thing, with taking orders until I have X amount or X material, then making "batches" at a time so I don't get flooded. Do you think there'd be a downside to that? Without making an LLC? It seems like it would be relatively simple, but I have no idea in actuality.
>>1007007
LLCs are strange things. For one they are subject to a couple different rules, and one of those is that is protects the shareholders/owners if the company does something bad, but it's called "limited" liability for a reason.
Take this scenario. Someone asks you for a candlestick, and you print it for them in PLA, you make the sale and you give it to them, they take it home, light it up, Get drunk, pass out, the PLA melts, the candle falls and the house goes up in flames.
Now, 3D printers are a weird legal grey area, because you are literally manufacturing products for anybody, even if they don't know what they are doing. If you don't make it clear in terms and conditions that they take all risk, then The LLC could get sued for providing a poor product ("this candlestick is dangerous and is not designed to handle the temps"). At this point, you probably need to dish out a lot of money for a lawyer to defend yourself, so the company is losing money and will probably go under. Here's the kicker though. If the opposing lawyer is good enough, they might be able to state that you, personally, endangered them by thinking it was a good idea to print in PLA. They will dig through everything from when the printer was built to what materials. is it foodsafe? What if my clients son swallowed this? They could go after anything, and in this realm of letting anyone with a computer and a CAD system be an engineer, they might find some sort of issue. This is especially important if you want to sell to engineering plastics. What if you print a gear out of alloy 910? It's rated to 8100 PSI. What if it fails at 7900? What if someone dies?
However, I think I might be scaring you more than is reasonable. For a one person gig, that makes less than 10K per year, it realistically won't matter. Unless you are straight up lying, ignoring ceast and desists, and being an unethical shit, no one will care.
>>1007017
LLCs are nice because they are easy to set up, they don't require as much paperwork as a corporation, they can be taxed as either a corporation or a partnership, and they protect the shareholders more than say a sole proprietorship. That being said, no one in the bisuness world is untouchable.
Be cautious, be ethical, and cover your ass, and you likely won't have any issues.
>>1007007
Also, moneywise, taxes are based on sales. Last month our company paid the VA government an eye watering amount of $0.38 in taxes because we were gone for most of that week for summer vacay and shut down bisuness. Definitly do your research on everything I saying because I'm not sure if it applies to your states, but I almost wouldn't worry about saving for taxes at all because you will be making enough money to pay for it.
That being said,make sure you have an emergency fund in case the printer head breaks or you need a rush shipment. Being an LLC means companies will want to play ball with you, and when they need 3 parts in a material you don't have, and they want in two days or you lose the sale, you need to be able to get on Amazon and hit that 20 dollar next day delivery.
I'm not a finance guy, but I would say like 30%emergency fund, 10%taxes, and 60percent pay, profits and supply.
>>1007017
>>1007023
>make it clear in T&C that they take all risk
Noted. I'll get some more legal advice, but I hope that "Buyer assumes all risk (etc., can't think of anything else right now)" will be sufficient to start with
>engineering plastics
Not going to happen, at least for a while; I will try to stick to PLA, ABS, maybe Nylon/Ninjaflex/[X]Fill materials if something comes up.
>emergency fund
Hadn't thought of that, good idea. I'm now unsure if I want or need to set this up as an LLC or a business at all, if I'm just effectively planning to say "Hey, I have a printer and you want to print stuff"; I had thought it might have been a good idea to cover my ass in case any of the above goes wrong, but now I'm wondering if I really NEED a business if I'm going to do as stated above and essentially just provide a service where it's up to the client what they want to do with the product.
>>1007036
The big benifit of an LLC is that then you actually look professional enough to be contracted by companies, but since most of them want engineering plastics, it might be easier to just put up fliers for "I do printing" First. I did that for two years before starting up mine, and that's where I realized there was a demand for it. I will also note that one we made ourself an actual biz hub on 3D hubs we started getting a significant increase in views, likely because we were an LLC
Being a business means you are officially a professional 3D printer technician (I had someone call me that once, it was great) but at also some with a lot more burden than just word of mouth I-can-do prints.
Also, just like any other part of life, connections are everything. If you know where to find an entrepreneur club, go make some friends there. Hell, give a way some sample prints. If you get the word out enough, nothing says you can't print for companies as a freelance. Unlike owning a restaurant where you know you will always have customers, you need to go out and make them.
Also, never to that "call for a quote" bullshit unless you are doing something crazy. This is the 21st century. If I see that I'm going somewhere else.
>>1007193
>>1007036
In terms of liability, the more money you have, the more money you have, the more people will want to take it from you. Realistically, no one is going to sue one guy for a printed part. An LLC would protect you a bit more than doing it alone, but realistically, it's highly unlikely, unless you get some extortionist bitch of a client, that you will have any trouble. If you were a 100 person cooperation, maybe. But if you just be a decent human being you'll be fine. Just make it clear in the fine print on your website/flier that they take all risk.
>>1005199
Who here is /hardcore/
>>1007208
What on Earth are you printing...
>>1007208
its easy to say that when you just start it. We want pics before, during, and after.
Octoprint vs Astroprint
Small update for any curious. Turns out my old Pi may have a dead port as it would never connect when trying Octoprint or Astroprint. I also don't think it was powering the wifi adapter enough for that to work either. Swapped it out with model 3 and works fine. Octoprint proved a bit bitchy to get connected to a Flashforge.
Astroprint is proving easier so for this particular printer, which is best seems dependent on what you have.
Just thought I'ld post an update to not put people off trying it since it was dead hardware not the software.
Alright so I made a simple spring in 123D Design, but I forgot to make it so the bottom has a different diameter than the top
Is there a way to have the model scale differently at different heights or am i going to have to start from scratch again?
I'm trying to figure out how to design a simple deck box for my firs3D build. I know what detentions I want for the box, but does anyone have any tip or any related guides for a first timer?
• Dimensions H97 x W73 x D62 (mm) [H3.8 x W2.8 x H2.4 (in)]
• Designed to hold 90 sleeved cards (70 double sleeved)
Is it better to buy a 3D printer kit now or wait until Black Friday?
I'm debating between a 3D printer and a new graphics card (prices may drop for the previous generation after AMD releases theirs in late June).
>>1007488
What are you going to do with the printer?
If the answer is "I don't know, just print little piddly toys and stuff," then realistically what's going to happen is you will buy the printer, set it up, get it calibrated, print like two or three things, then get bored and play DOOM on your sub-par grafix card.
>>1006785
Thanks for your answers. I would like to know a bit more about that PEI. Where do you buy it? I checked ebay and amazon and it is not that expensive in US, but with shipping to EU and taxes it becomes quite expensive.
Do you know if PEI sheet has any industrial application, so I could find some local business that might sell me a sample?
>>1007568
Don't know much about EU, but PEI is the chemical name, polyesterimide or something like that. It might be easier to find under the trade name of Ultem 1000. Automotive, medical, and aircraft company's use it, so it's unlikely you will find a little mom and pop shop willing to sell you some.
You need to rough up the surface a little, but sandpaper works great for that. Once it's good and leveled, you can pretty much print bricks on it.
>>1007488
There's no point in waiting for a price drop. The RX 480 starts at $200 and will slightly outperform a 390X. Unless you plan to buy used I would just get the 480 because I doubt the 390x will drop that much to justify buying it over a 480.
>>1007594
The 480 hype is so real, with the supply and demand sellers are gonna jack the prices up.
>>1007642
I bought a GTX 780, first very expensive GPU purchase
The day that the 980 came out, there was an update that seemingly made my GPU lose frames in pretty much every game. I thought it was just a coincidence or I was crazy or something.
Around the time the 10 series was announced and the 700 series was considered "retired" on Nvidias website, there was another update that again I lost frames on literally every single game.
I looked it up and apparently this phenomenon is not uncommon with Nvidia, they cripple their old cards to push their new ones.
AMD on the other hand pushes driver updates that improve card performance for older cards
It feels pretty fucking shitty to have paid 500$ for a GPU just to have it crippled a year or two later. But without those updates newer games werent optimized, so it would have even been even bigger loss of performance.
I wont ever give them a cent again.
>>1007642
Don't. Just wait. Nvidia has not had much of a dog in the fight for a long time with anything under 400. And anything over 400 dollars is a waste if you aren't gaming over 1080 res. Now if you are then have fun, but if you aren't just buying a 200-300 dollar card then upgrading after a few years with the money you save is better.
>>1005199
Should a cooling fan be shutoff entirely for ABS?
I don't even know if this is possible in Slic3r since it seems to have some sort of auto cooling and speed adjustment thing.
>>1007649
When slicing, in the settings there should be a setting for your print fan.
I have mine set to turn on at like layer 5. You could turn it all the way off.
>>1007648
The 780 was just so problematic rigarding drivers, a real nightmare. That has not happened with other cards afaik.
>>1007632
I suspect the demand will drop off quickly as price goes up. Price is the entire appeal of the card.
>>1007648
>mfw I was using a Radeon 5000 series until my Oculus rift made me upgrade.
I recently bought a dirt cheap 100 dollar R7 260x.
I don't play top of the line games, just shit like the original halo and oculus rift games, which arnt that bad on the DK2, since it's only a 1080p screen, and it works so well
How strong a motor do you need for the extruder? I have pic related, except the non-bowden version, I assumed that you wouldn't need a particularly strong stepper and planned for a 2.6kg/cm one, but then on the reprap wiki some pages say that you may need even more than that for some extruders; I couldn't find this specific type on there. I imagine that 2.6kg/cm should be enough, but I figured I'd ask, just in case.
>>1006025
What is your orientation though?
>>1007742
I have a 60oz running my direct gear drive extruder.
Thats 4.3kg/cm
Using a direct gear is a lot harder on the stepper than when you use a large printed gear and a hobbled bolt.
Its also a lot harder to drive 3mm than 1.75mm
Might be hard to get a good answer on exactly how much power you need.
Going overboard in power and not having to drive it as hard is a nice thing though.
>>1007751
Clubber
>>1007742
anyone have an assembly guide for one of these? I have rings and screws left the red part is on a little crooked.
>>1007779
Savage
Is 300W enough for a 300x300 heated bed?
What's the best place to buy chinese mega2560s from? Robotdigg says their mega boards can't be flashed with new firmware.
Also, a little update on the linear guide corexy printer. It has a budget of about $1000 and damn these linear guides are expensive, they're 1/3 the price. It uses 6 420mm Hiwin MGN12 guides. 2 for y, 1 (with a long block) for x, 3 for z in a 3 point system.
It's designed for a large bed but you can fit smaller ones if you'd like. I've found the difference in cost between a frame sized for 200x300 and 300x300mm isn't big since it's mostly just frame stuff. 300+mm guide rails are still expensive and aluminum extrusions from misumi are almost the same price within 100-200mm I've found. I did test a few different sizes and found price wise it's not a big deal.
The carriage isn't done yet. I'd like to fit the Dual Flexion extruder on this printer when the all-metal version comes out, but for now I'm planning on a Chimera with bowden. I haven't cut holes for the screws either, saving that for last since boolean operations can be weird.
The biggest concern I have about this is getting an enclosure big enough to fit everything comfortably (the second frame along the printer's frame is checking sizes for an enclosure). Honestly I just want to throw it in a cardboard box, but I'd also like for it to be temperature controlled.
>>1007921
Depends. What kind of power supply are you talking about?
You need to worry about amps, because when you talk in watts shit can get messy.
Its pretty straightforward if you are referring to say a 25A 300w LED driver PSU. You have 300w/25A of 12V ready to use.
But in an ATX power supply, that wattage is split between 12V and 5V rails. So you dont have 300w of 12V power on tap.
A standard 200x200 MK2B heated bed pulls 11amps, which is the vast majority of power.
The electronics, steppers, and hotend pull like another 7amps.
So your typical reprap will run with a 240W 20A LED Driver PSU (or an ATX with at least 20A on the 12V rails), but will be pushing its hard with no headroom.
I cant imagine a larger bed pulling more power, just taking longer to heat up.
If your power supply actually has 300W of 12V it should work fine.
>>1007762
I'm going for 1.75. I noticed that the folgertech kit, which I'm roughly basing my printer on, has a direct drive extruder too, and they have a 2.6kg/cm motor on it, so I guess I should be fine with that.
>>1007813
If you find one on eBay, usually the sellers have an assembly guide in the item description
>>1007944
>What's the best place to buy chinese mega2560s from?
eBay or Aliexpress should be fine
>>1007578
I found two suppliers locally. One has already responded, but they only have 30 mm sheet. This is a bit to thick, unless someone has any idea how to slice it.
I have also found supplier for PEI in pellet form. I was thinking about grinding it with coffee grinder and sprinkle it on top of plate with epoxy resin or something.
>>1007944
Why do you have the rail on top of extrusion for x axis? Wouldn't be easier to mount the rail on side or bottom? So you need smaller bracket to hold the hot end?
>>1007982
>Why do you have the rail on top of extrusion for x axis? Wouldn't be easier to mount the rail on side or bottom? So you need smaller bracket to hold the hot end?
It puts the weight of the carriage directly onto the aluminum extrusion. You probably could mount it on the side or bottom though since rails are rated for same load in any mounting position/orientation. I also had designs that had y-axis and x-axis mounted on the side earlier on.
>>1007944
Buy a sainsmart one
It works with real arduino drivers.
I recently got a different cheaper unbranded one, and it has to have weird Chinese drivers that aren't easy to find
It's a crapshoot whether they will or not, and I know the black sainsmart ones don't have that problem
>>1007956
110V mains. Not going to bother with a PSU for the heated bed.
I just want to know if 300W can provide enough heat for such a big surface.
Those of you who have built bulk filament extruders, what do you use to insulate your heaters?
I'm doing stupid stuff and at 350C the insulation I'm using starts smoking like a Cuban cigar store.
>>1007944 here again
Do you guys think 3 rails for the Z-axis is enough? I'm thinking about 4, it's just $50 more but I feel it may not be necessary, and I'd like to keep the budget tight.
>>1008299
Decided to go with 4 since i was getting a discount. Worst case I'll sell one if I don't need it.
Ever since I doubled my print speeds in Slicer, my printer has been doing perimeters slower - it's even faster to take the old speeds and increase the print speed to 200%. What gives?
So I'm getting shifting in my layers where it drifts off in a direction.
I have a glass bed on top of the heated bed, but I think the corner brackets it came with may be shit. Would this cause this if the glass is moving? Haven't seen it move, but haven't stared at the print for half an hour to know either.
If its not that I'm assuming loose belt? Really new printer and was fine until recently so I don't think so. And sometimes it still prints fine. Brackets are on with wing nuts and I think maybe they are backing out a bit during the print due to vibration.
>>1009179
Possibly stepper drivers overheating. Either dial the one back which corresponds to the axis that is losing steps or slap a fan on there (assuming it's not a mechanical fault).
>>1009184
Not really sure what all that means. I know some of those words, but this is honestly the first mechanical thing I've done. It only does it early on in the print, 1cm in and everything goes fine. So I think its getting knocked into place by the extruder.
It shimmys in any direction. Trying some paper clips now to hold it down. I'm really thinking the glass bed clips are just stupid.
>>1009258
Not that guy, but:
>stepper drivers overheating
The board that the stepper motors (the things that make it go up/down/left/right) connect to might be overheating, point a fan at it.
>dial it back
Sometimes the boards have limiting potentiometer that you can adjust. I've never done this, and you'd have to find a guide for your specific type of board.
If your glass bed is getting knocked around during printing, then something's wrong with either the printer or the surface you put your bed on. I've never, ever had any problems holding my bed down with regular old binder clips.
Does anybody here have any experience with RapMan style extruder? Pic related. I know this is old printer, but I have never seen that before. Why is it not used anymore? Is it bad or just to bulky?
>>1009273
>>1009258
Checking your stepper voltages and setting them to a reasonable voltage is very important for a reprap. Dont just trust that you are running at a safe voltage from the factory
If you are running too hot youll kill your steppers
http://reprap.org/wiki/Pololu_stepper_driver_board
If you dont have separate stepsticks and have an all in one board, figure out what driver circuit it has and use the Vref formula for it.
>>1009179
>Brackets are on with wing nuts and I think maybe they are backing out a bit during the print due to vibration.
Is it a setup similar to this?
Brackets holding your heated bed have a fixed bolt, on springs with the wing nut under the carriage to hold it tight?
I had a setup like this, and my springs were very weak. At certain speeds my bed would actually shift back and forth, and the nuts would back out.
Replacing the springs with much tighter springs stopped it from sliding around. I also added nylon lock nuts instead of the regular nuts I had.
But your bed would have to be really loose and springy to shift every single time. Make sure your belts are tight, and if not check your steppers for losing steps, whether they are being underpowered or overpowered.
>>1009285
I didn't build it myself its a Flashforge. I know its DIY and everything, but I'm more on the designing parts end of things and plan to build a second one later. Paperclip seems to have corrected the issue so now I'm printing something taller to test it.
I do want to make a custom one eventually to figure all the details out.
Why is it impossible to find any formfutura ABS or HIPS in the US? Seriously, I want to try some of this allegedly super premium filament.
Why does this happen? Both cura and pronterface do those "things".
Is this just the case of bad mesh or .stl file?
>>1009532
also any way to fix it?
>>1009532
The file seems corrupt. Try to repair it with netfabb or some other software.
>>1009553
yeah I figured out. Used netfabb. Looks good now.
Thanks anyway
Calling all Rostock Max owners:
How do you deal with blobbing?
I'm getting blobbing like pic related and my current retraction setting are at 7mm, which seems high.
>>1009641
photo is small
what temperature and retraction speed are you printing at?
>>1009644
The hotend is 220c for ABS
Print speed is 40-60 mm/s
Non-print moves are 150 mm/s
The retraction speed is 110 mm/s
And I have a 4 mm z-lift.
I don't have wipe or coast enabled.
Sorry about the small pic.
>>1009648
>220c for ABS
That seems low. Bump it up to 240, possibly.
>>1009673
I have a PEEK hotend.
I don't feel comfortable getting that close to the max temperature.
Is 220 really that low? 240 is the upper limit on the range of recommended temperatures for the Hatchbox ABS I have.
>>1009641
You should have google it: http://reprap.org/wiki/Rostock_MAX#Slicing_Settings
I wouldn't raise temperature, because I think it would create more ooze.
If your extruder doesn't grinds the filament, there is no need to raise temperature.
>>1009695
Thanks, but you really think I haven't googled?
I've already read that, and I still have issues.
I would try to tweak it more myself, but I'm new to 3d printing, so I figured I'd ask someone with more experience.
>>1009676
That's weird. I've always printed at 240-255 and have heard recommendations to not print lower than that. I have a metal hotend, so I don't have an issue running that hot, though.
>>1009704
Have you tried 10mm retraction? You said you have 7mm. That's why I thought you didn't google it.
>>1009676
>>1009711
Temperature really depends on brand of filament. I have had PLA that was printed at 170°C and also different PLA that was printed at 210°C.
It also depends on speed. Right now I am printing with some wood filament at 180°C. Perimeters at 60mm/s and external perimeters at 30mm/s: not a problem. Infill at 80mm/s: extruded filament is not a continuous line. it looks like it can not extrude/melt fast enough.
A bit related: Have anybody printed with wood filament? Did you also used some sort of wood finish? Stain, oil, varnish,...? I would like to make it a bit darker but not hide the texture. And I would prefer matte finish.
>>1009749
I tried 10mm retraction, but I kept getting bubbles in the next 15mm of print. I guess I'll keep experimenting.
I also enabled wipe and that helps some, but not completely.
For the wood filament, I have seen someone sand and stain it. It looked pretty good actually.
So, how close do all of your printers get to real life size?
I'm printing the 50 mm bridge test, and while my bridges are doing pretty well, I noticed that they're only 49.69mm long.
I also have no Idea how to adjust e-steps on a delta, so I guess I have to look that up.
I was looking at buying a monoprice to play around with since I know nothing about 3d printing but they sold out right after I read the article about them on hackaday.
Any other suggestions for a 3d printer with a similar price point?
http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=107&cp_id=10724&cs_id=1072403&p_id=15365&seq=1&format=2&res=1
>>1009807
Sorry, not much at that price point unless you want to build it yourself from online plans.
If you want to pay more like $350 to $400 then you get more options.
Does MatterSlice have a randomize layer start option?
I haven't found one in the settings, but I haven't found evidence on the contrary.
I would use Cura or Slic3r, but MatterSlice has given me better results.
>>1009763
Adjusting esteps has nothing to do with it being a delta or not. It have everything to do with your extruder settings.
Does anyone have experience with a setup like this?
When the head presses against the bed, it tilts to hit the switch above it.
I'm too fucking stupid to figure out what it does and the instructions don't mention it, but it doesn't do anything on its own.
>>1009838
Sorry, wrong term. I meant steps per mm.
>>1009843
Looks like a z-probe.
Sorry I can't tell you more.
>>1009749
>printing with wood filament
I'd like to try this at some point. Any recommendations on brand if you like it? What issues do you encounter, if any?
>make it a bit darker
I've heard that running the extruder hotter makes it darker, but I have no experience myself so I can't say for. I would use a stain or oil in your case, though; I can't imagine varnish would have a good look to it on 3D printed objects.
>>1009855
Local hackerspaces/fablabs are always an option, if you have one local.
If you do, get him a membership to get him started.
>>1009859
Unfortunately, all of the ones in my city are on the other side of where we both live and it's at least an hour's drive on a good day there.
It's finally here. How much shit do you think this Chinese stuff will give me?
>>1009875
>diamond extruder
Dang, envy. Let me know how it goes, I've considered getting one but don't really know if it's worth it vs. individual extruders or good with colour changes
>>1009878
I've seen this: http://www.instructables.com/id/Full-Color-Mixing-3D-Printer/
Although, the author does mention that technically 5 extruders are needed.
For true full color prints you need red, yellow, blue, black, and white filament.
What grease do you guys use for lube? I've heard Z-12 is okay but I'd like to get something from amazon (with prime) so I can get it right away.
>>1009907
I use PTFE superlube oil on my Z axis threaded rods.
I use white litium grease on my smooth rods with linear bearings.
>>1009922
I have threaded rods, not leadscrews. Lubing up the threaded rods make the Z move nice and free. I mean it probably would have been fine regardless, but it made it buttery smooth instead of gritty and bindy.
As for smooth rods, ive heard it keeps your linear bearings from wearing grooves into your smooth rods (especially if you dont have expensive hardened rods)
Anyone have advice on consistency?
I swear just when I think I've got it going well and quality is fine it does some random shit. Or is it just normal to have prints fail every few prints.
>>1009875
That thing looks badass. I have nothing to add, just damn it looks cool.
>>1009922
Just because you don't notice it when pulling by hand doesn't mean it does show up in the print's finish. Besides keeping stuff smooth, lube is supposed to reduce wear and protect against rust.
>>1009843
It's for auto bed leveling.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-Repetier-Host-to-Set-Up-Your-Auto-Leveling-P/?ALLSTEPS might help with the setup.
>>1009930
Fairly normal. Belts and bolts loosen, wiring connections flex and break, ambient temperature fluctuations have an effect. It's part of the joy of 3d printing, diy style.
Where is a good place to ask about and request help with G code? I am using replicator G and need to make a script or something to make some changes but have no idea how.
>>1009889
damn, that's cool
>>1009889
That's the plan. I can't really do black or white, but mixing CMY colors works pretty well (look up repetier color mixing on reprap wiki)
Since im hacking in a cnc driver board and not using an LCD, I do have 2 spare driver slots, but I might be able to pull a third out if I run both z steppers off the same driver.
I have some run-of-the-mill printer assembly to finish up, but at this point it's all wiring
>>1009852
This is my first wood filament: http://extrudr.eu/products/extrudr-fichte , I have chosen it because it was the only one I could find that was 1 kg. I will try to print something big, and I don't want to run out of filament. There was also a discount, so I got it for like 50€.
Filament is very rough. I have direct extruder, but I tried to push it trough some Bowden tube, just to see how it goes and after like 20 cm it gets really hard to push it trough. It was from e3d, so ID is 3.175mm.
At first print I got a clog, but that might be my fault, as I was printing ABS before that and I didn't properly clean the nozzle. I am also using PVAc white wood glue on bed at 60°C (similar to glue stick, but better), which worked great with PLA and prints were easy to remove if you let it cool down. But this wood filament got really stuck to it. It is a wood glue after all.
I have printed calibration cuboid to determine optimal temperature. At higher temperature it basically runs out of the nozzle by itself, but at 185°C it starts to look good.
So I tried to print Groot with 180°C. This happens: >>1009749 , so I raised temp during printing. I can't remember what was final temperature, but I changed it twice, so that might be a cause for those two lines across Groot's chest. On vertical surfaces are layers almost invisible (0.2mm layer height). On top of the head was a lot of blobbing like this: >>1009641 , because temperature was quite high and printer has slowed down to make those antlers on top of the head.
For the next print I will lower infill settings to 60mm/s and print at 185°C.
The weirdest things are those "hairs" that appear on surface. I have no idea where they come from.
I want to finish Groot, but don't know how. Should I sand it? It might be hard to sand in all those creases. On one hand I want to completely finish it, but on the other hand I want to just stain it and keep the lines from 3d printing.
>>1010059
Thanks for the link. Interesting bit of info you posted.
When wiring a mains heated bed to a socket with power switch what should go to ground?
>>1010049
Why do you have 3 different makes of a4988 sticks, and two DRV8825s?
>>1010203
DRVs have more power (to split between the 2 z-stepperson the i3 setup), and one of the extruders is bigger and I want more power for it so I added another DRV. I might swap that out for an allegro later, but I have a shit ton of allegros and like 4 DRVs. I can justify it with splitting on the z axis, but allegros are fine for most things.
Im wondering, what would a decent 3D printer be for a few hundred dollars? I'm new to this board, but i want to make gun parts
>>1010246
>few hundred dollars
You do NOT want to cheap out if you're wanting to use your printer for gun parts. Also, define what you mean by "gun parts" - accessories, mounts, or trigger groups, mechanics?
>>1010250
All of them, really. It'd be cool to get custom grips and stuff, but right now im looking at trigger groupings, receivers, etc.
>>1010254
Okay, I'm going to be extremely blunt here:
You can't print most of those things.
It's not a matter of which printer you choose, it's a matter of the material; plastic can't hold up to the pressures and stresses of a gun. There's a reason you haven't seen 3D printed AK's and 1911's all over the place, and why most (all?) 3DP guns are .22lr - the gun would literally explode in your hands if you tried to use the same design but 3D printed.
That being said, you can make grips, scope mounts, foregrips, maybe even stocks and such out of 3D printed parts. I've even got a scope mount for a rimfire rifle which is holding up well. However, do not print anything that is mechanical (bolt, receiver, pins, any rails, any mechanisms). It is dangerous and is GUARANTEED to fail - not "maybe", not "at some point" - it will explode in your hands and you WILL be maimed or killed.
I don't want to scare you off from 3D printing but that's just the facts. There has been some experimentation into almost entirely 3D printed guns, but they fail after a few shots and usually need barrel inserts so the pressure doesn't fracture it.
I will be happy to answer any other questions you have on the topic, though.
tl;dr bad idea, don't skim what I wrote, read it and understand it
>>1010257
Fortunate, then, that an AR-15 lower is legally a gun, but doesn't have to stand up to any of these stresses, and every other AR-15 part is legally not a gun at all.
>>1010261
It still receives plenty of vibration and shock.
At most you'll be able to squeeze a mag or two, and that's with plenty of modification. Some guy in texas tested the possibility and I don't recall him getting far with the lowers before getting shut down. He still made the "Liberator" which was a single shot, unrifled, fully 3d printed pistol (more like a musket to be honest).
If you want unregistered ar, then your best bet is an 80%lower that you finish milling out yourself.
>>1010261
If you're dead-set on doing this, I can't stop you, but you should know a few things:
If you're a felon and/or are trying to get a lower you shouldn't be able to buy, then I have no further comments about this.
If you're planning to sell these, the ATF will rip you a new one for being unlicensed, as well as any dissatisfied customers (or their next of kin, if it comes to that).
If you want do this because "it's cheaper than X lower", you'll be paying more for a good printer and the issues that come with learning how to print, and still get a worse quality lower.
If you want to do this because it's fun and you want to learn to 3D print, then go for it, whatever.
I've detailed the risks above and am not responsible for you hurting yourself. I do recommend you start with smaller/simpler prints, though.
>>1010002
Okay good. Thank you. Just wanted to make sure I'm not a total idiot.
Every time I figured one thing out and started getting decent prints something else would happen, maybe once, maybe many times. Was starting to wonder if I had learned anything at all.
I see people print all kinds of crazy things with over hangs and hollows and I'm still staying fairly simple. Thought it might be me.
>>1010246
This technically is not a weapon board, but I'll give you advice because I've been thinking of doing this for a while, especially since it seems all gun stores are about to go the way of the dodo.
First things first. this >>1010276. If you are doing illegal shit, you can fuck right off; You're the reason all the normies are scared of guns.
if you are a responsible gun owner that want to experiment and melt your gun down after you use it, take a look here:
https://github.com/maduce/fosscad-repo
That is the Fosscad repo that contains all the parts you need to print AR-15s, AK-47s, 60 round drum magazines, just-fuck-my-shit right up machines, and every gun known to man. However, if you are going to want to actually use lower receivers or other high temp, high pressure parts, its unlikely you will be able to reliably create parts, but if you use Polycarbonate or Alloy 910, you might be able to, since both have pretty high melt temps and are good under shock and impact. They may not be reliable, but they will definitly be better than ABS.
Specifically, however, take a look at the "firearms" tab in that repo, because all of those guns are designed for the sole purpose of being printed. Some are tested (like the liberator), and some are untested (like the washbear). Be safe and don't be stupid, but you already know that because you are a responsible gun owner, right?
Realistically, the cost of a printer that can reliably do polycarbonate would be around $500 minimum, but probably would be closer to $1000.
Is a mains powered heated bed worth the danger and extra parts (SSR, separate plug, etc.)?
>>1010296
Interesting. Im actually in the process of getting the Ar/k/, which has the fosscad stuff in it.
I was looking at aluminum 3DP a bit too, but that technology doesn't look as developed.
PEACHY PRINTER IS NOW A LEGO PRINTER
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x-Z3mI431b0
BASED RYLAN ISN'T FINISHED
>>1010302
>the $600,000 lego kit
>>1010301
Link to the Ar/k/? im curious
>>1010298
Whats the bed size and wattage? ains beds are nice because you can punch more power though them, so you can heat up faster. They also can be bigger.
For a standard MK2B size, 200mmx200mm, there isn't much of a difference other then heatup speed, but Above 300mmx200mm, Mains power is realistically your only option.
>>1010308
>https://thepiratebay.org/torrent/13561569
>285 GB
It's very much /k/
>>1010302
Found the files for Peachy. Thanks Rylan, now I can generate my own disappointment, right here at home.
Link here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/23ekojar33wlj68/Peachy-Mini-v1.14-MF-RTG.zip?dl=0
>>1010308
300x300mm
I have a 750W ATX PSU so it's possible to power a high current 12v bed but there aren't a lot out there.
I'm just worried about building an almost entirely metal printer with some shitty AC voltage heated bed from China. It just sounds like trouble.
>>1010318
hmmm. It might be a better call to use a 12V relay to reduce load on the MOSFET, since that might be more than the 15A of a standard one, or the 5A on a chinese one.
Just 12V relay coil to the MOSFET, and then hook a 12V bed through that directly to the PSU. The wires might get hot, but they wont fry anything. Another option is to use an MK2B with a 24V PSU to cut the amperage in half.
>>1010313
Man I wish I knew how to into torrents.
I feel like no matter where I go is infected.
>>1010320
Where can you find a high current relay?
>>1010326
most relays handle a decent amount of current, often around 10A oir above.
I found this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5V-30A-1-Channel-Relay-Module-with-Optocoupler-H-L-Level-Triger-for-Arduino-Mega-/131848849693?hash=item1eb2cdc91d:g:ZSYAAOSwBw5XRHe8
You can also look for the part number of the relay.
>>1010330
Wouldn't a 3D printer need a 12V relay to control the relay using RAMPS or whatever controller board.
And these big heated beds require over 20A.
http://store.quintessentialuniversalbuildingdevice.com/product.php?id_product=29
>>1010335
then it should be even easier to find the relay.
>>1010317
Does anyone know if these files are some sort of standard?
I dont want to buy a board from that macrofab place, but I would love to try out making my own PCB.
I know you can buy copper boards, then use special markers to make your traces. Use my 3d printer as a plotter to mark it out.
>>1010313
So, is the Ar/k/ the successor to the Do/k/ument?
I haven't had /k/ as my homeboard for about a year now.
Although, before I left I did start work on another document successor, but I never finished it.
It's about 500gb and on an external HDD.
It has the complete defcad, a repaired do/k/ument, the megapack, and some other files of my choice.
Problem was 500gb was way more that I can reasonably organize or remove duplicate files from.
>>1010302
>>1010317
I have been a peachy detractor (as with every kickstarter printer) from the beginning, and when the overproduced soap opera videos came out saying the project was dead I came out and hated on it. The Backer interviews were fucking cringeworthy and awful.
I just watched his hour long inventory video, I guess because he is trying to drum up support for a loan or something.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_6Wkqbo2H8
I actually feel really bad now, you can he and the team worked real hard on it. He seems like a decent guy, I really hated the way he overproduces his videos.
It kind of made me want a peachy, and it makes me sad the whole thing is in limbo right now.
>>1010377
As i understand it, the Do/k/ument is in the Ar/k/, among other things.
>>1010322
get qbitorrent, check comments about the file and you're good to go. You can also check the files in the torrent before downloading them.
>>1010390
Im just glad he's not just giving up. If i was him, I would have given up, but even though he lost a lot of funding and support, he is still looking to help make the world a better place.
I believe in Rylan
More peachy printer stuff:
https://github.com/peachyprinter
>>1010431
>torrenting bareback
Pay the measly 5$ a month to get a VPN and youll be golden.
>>1010446
>I believe in Rylan
I just hope he has it in him to actually sue his friend.
You can tell he is doing everything he can to not sue, buying his time. Not sure what he is hoping for, his buddy to just come up with a shitload of money?
>>1010667
Pay it back over time?
What do you think is going to happen if he sues? The guy already didn't have money, that's why he embezzled from them. A lawsuit would actually make it harder to get money back because lawyer fees are obscene and the embezzler is going to resist the lawsuit, whereas he might pay the money back without expensive coercion.
Lawsuits are a last resort and most of the time you can resolve things just by coming to a suitable agreement.
Anyway, does anyone know a good source for 300x300mm silicone or kapton 12V heaters in the US that doesn't have rape prices? I can only find quintessential which has a heater for over 75 USD after shipping and tax. The equivalent heater from aliexpress is around $36 but it takes a month to get here.
>>1010672
>What do you think is going to happen if he sues?
Im not sure. I just have seen a lot of Kickstarters fail and the people just run off with the money.
Like how illegal was it for the guy to use the money that was put into his personal account?
If Rylan and the rest of the team just draw it out over a long time, and then say fuck it and cut their losses nobody is actually going to get in trouble for it.
I would think after a while, he is just gonna give up.
Maybe a court order to sell his house and garnish his wages would be a better way to keep things on track. But the possible jail time or whatever may be too much, it would be hard to put a long time friend in a situation like that.
About ATX power supplies. Can the current from two different PCI-E connectors be combined?
>>1010727
Typically they have multiple rails. If you tie all the 12V (yellow) wires together and connect them to ground, you will get all the 12V Amps listed on the side.
If you mix a 12V rail and say a 5V rail, you have essentially a 7V short circuit, and the ATX will shut off.
Basically, If red touches yellow, you're a dead fellow. If Red touches black, you're still a dead fellow.
>>1010729
PCI-E is 12V (yellow) only. I'm pretty sure I won't kill myself. What about if the PSU has multiple 12V rails?
>>1010730
If you tie a 12V on rail 1 to a 12V on rail 2, you get 12V, and both rails take half the load. I would suggest taking all the 12V rails and tying them all together to get maximum power.
>>1010740
Ok. One last thing, if all the wires go to a single, properly rated terminal do you think there will be heat issues with the wires?
>>1010744
Heat is caused by current. If you a 15A heated bed, and have 3 wires leading from 3 different 12v rails, then each wire will have 5 amps on it, which should be on the upper end of fine.
If you only use 1 wire and a 15A bed, then that wire is taking 15A, and that might be too much.
>>1010771
Well it'll be a bundle of smaller wires all leading to a single contact (one screw terminal) and the other side will be a 10 gauge wire or something. The terminal is rated for 30A and the current will be around 23A @12V.
But I think I might just stick to a mains heater because I can't seem to find a reputable DC-DC solid state relay that can handle that current. The ones on amazon and ebay are cheap Chinese stuff.
>>1010779
>23A 12V
Have you looked at powertrench mosfets?
The FDP6035AL has a 30V D-S voltage, 48A continuous capacity, and 14-12 milliohms from 5-10V G-S.
The FDP047AN08A0 is 75V D-S, 80A, 4.7mohm at 10V.
>>1010661
I live in a real land of freedom, so it's unnecessary
Anybody know if this glass is any good? I'm wanting to get an extra sheet so I can swap them out when I finish printing, so one cools while the other's being printed. Never looked into these so I don't know what's considered "good" or bad; only thing I've read is crowning is bad since it makes it unlevel.
>>1010942
>a real land of freedom,
And where exactly do you live?
Hopefully outside of the 14-eyes countries, where copyright agreement law has jurisdiction to get you.
>United Kingdom, United States, Australia, Canada, New Zealand, Denmark, France, the Netherlands, Norway, Germany, Belgium, Italy, Spain, Sweden
>Finally attempt to print at a speed beyond 20mm/s
>Everything looks terrible
Is there a sure fire way to make it so that I can print decently at higher speeds? I just want to not have to wait as long for some prints.
>>1011294
I can push about 60 mm/s perimeters before things look like shit.
You might need to raise your hotend temperature and continue tweaking.
Is aliexpress reliable? Kinda suspicious of this alipay nonsense.
>>1011370
Reliable to buy from? They haven't stolen my cc number yet.
>>1011370
It is, bigger than amazon
>>1011370
Its like Ebay, so it highly depends on who you buy from. Its a marketplace with different sellers, so you could get a shitty seller.
The site itself is rock solid
>>1011370
As previously mentioned, Alibaba/AliExpress itself is legit; last I checked, it was the single largest e-commerce site in the world as far as total financial throughput was concerned.
But, like eBay, all it really does is help you connect with whoever's selling what you want to buy. Your mileage will vary from seller to seller.
Anyone know where I can get a 314x314mm aluminum plate pre-drilled and machined for a large heated bed? Or any online shops that have instant quote and good prices.
>>1011202
I have been using some Borosilicate glass plates for at least a year. I believe mine are 3mm and tempered as well, but 'm not sure. They have held up pretty well to moderate use for a year. they are starting to show a couple scratches here and there, but that has zero effect on my prints since I use rafts.
I will say tho, make absolutely sure this is the same thickness as your other glass plate.Otherwhise you are going to need to recalibrate, and do a bunch other shit literally every time you change plates.
Is pushplastic's ABS any good?
>>1012483
Never had experience with it, but Hatchbox is a few dollars cheaper and has worked fine for me.
>>1012483
I have printed a little bit of their ABS, and it seemed fine.
I pretty much only print PLA, and their PLA has been great.
