Quite a bit more complicated than that, research operational amplifiers. But to answer your question, yes you can replicate it

It's quite literally a box, wiring, drivers, and cones. Driver and cones will end up costing the most if you want the same ones in name brand cabs. The housing is shaped and designed with acoustic physics in mind so your best bet is to copy one exactly. Then all that's left is to wire it up and make it pretty.

>>1003802
>It's quite literally a box, wiring, drivers, and cones.

What are cross-overs? What are amplifiers? Please, tell me how you can have a bass, treble and volume adjustments using only wires? Do you just throw some drivers in a box and call it a day? Cause you sure are making it sound simple... But it ain't. The only thing simple here is you.

>>1003823
He's right though.

>>1003823
Not that anon but one method is high/low pass filters via potentiometers and capacitors.

Its relatively simple, but extremely fucking complicated to get the dimensions and mass/density of the body right. The speaker vibrates air--you have to have an air column to vibrate, and thats what the cavity is for.

Other than that, not too complicated

>>1003823
OP said build a cab, not an amp. No need for a crossover unless he's including a tweeter.

>>1003830

If he uses multiple speakers, he will have to. Most guitarists and even bassists use multiple speakers. The largest single speaker is typically a 15 inch bass cabinet speaker. However, 2 10 speakers in theory have more surface area, and more volume. For guitars, 2x12 inch speakers is a very popular set up

>>1003834
Most bass cabs are literally multiple midrange/woofers wired in series/parallel arrays/

>>1003791
I've build a very quick and dirty 1x12" guitar cab from scratch. Lucked out on some pretty good speakers and the whole thing was about $150US. I skimped in a lot of areas you wouldn't want to though. It works, not quite as loud as a real cab, but loud enough to play small venues no problem, it's a little fragile.

You could make a good one for about $50 worth of MDF and tolex and a couple days of hard labor. Speaker wiring is very straight forward, there are two ways to do a two-speaker cab depending on the impedance you want. Crossovers aren't that hard to build from components either if you want horns or tweeters or whatever for a bass/keyboard cab. A fixed single RC filter crossover is literally two parts.

>>1003834
>>1003933
A decent working man's bass cab is either 1x15" for solid rumble or 4x10 for more punch. 6x10s are pretty common too for more power. I think they're usually two series arrays wired to each other in parallel, but it just kinda depends on what the head can handle and is easily changed.

"midrange/woofers" doesn't mean a whole hell of a lot in guitar speaker world. We talk in inches and ohms.

>>1004180
Anyway, what you wanna do is first of all some math for dimensions or use a lookup table. Google is your friend. You want a depth that will give you the resonance you want depending on the tone and amount of power you're looking for.

Typically you build the cabinet out of two layers of 1/2" MDF. I used one layer. Cabs are typically closed-back to retain more low end. I did a partially open-back and just hung some thing plywood over it (my cab is extremely specialized for a specific sound and totally NOT recommended for everybody). Use two layers of MDF on all sides but the front. Glue the joints with a solid layer of wood glue and fasten with wood screws.

You probably wanna make the front out of around 1/4" thick plywood. Cut circular holes for the speakers, mount them in, screw the front in.

You want the back joints to be tight as a drum to keep sound from leaking out. Cover it with tolex and mount corner brackets. Most people use spray adhesive or whatever on the tolex. Don't forget to drill a hole for the speaker jack.

Dick with wiring or otherwise open it up by taking the front off. Not all cabs use glue, but it'll help the top and side joints be a little less leaky if you do. They're end-grain to side-grain joints, so they're not absurdly solid if you do need to dismantle the whole thing later. Also you can skip to glue on the back if you'd rather do it that way.

Before you wire the speakers up, do the math on series/parallel impedance and make sure whichever you use is safe for your amp. Generally there's a minimum you want to stay above or equal to.

Built mine with nothing but a handsaw and a power drill, was very satisfying work.

>>1004188
Actually, mid-range and woofers refer to the frequency response range.
Depending on the desired tone one of the two is usually picked for bass cabs.

Speaker size and impedance has little to do with the final sound when compared to what the speaker is designed to do and the enclosure construction. You can have a 15" midrange that works better for guitar than a 15" woofer works for bass.
This has to do with the stiffness of the surround and spider, cone shape, and voice coil design.

Still a crossover is rarely used in bass and guitar cabs that don't have different types of speakers (i.e. a sub woofer and mid-range or a woofer and high-range or tweeter combo).

Actually the terms Subwoofer, woofer, low-range, midrange, high range, and tweeter all have meanings in audio design, which refer to specific frequency responses.

Unless you're a bassfaggot who seems to think everyone wants to hear a kickdrum 24/7, then yes, all that matters is diameter, resistance, and power.

>>1003933

Yes, there are lots of 4x10 and 2x10 amps, especially as speaker construction has gotten better.

However, there are many 15 inch cabinets remaining, and many players who stand by them

>>1004213
>bass amp
>kick drum

Regardless, the terms aren't used to sell instrument amp speakers. They're classified by size, impedance and power ratings. You see them in hi-fi and sometimes PA equipment, but the only people I've ever seen refer to a guitar or bass amp speaker as a woofer, etc., are shady fucks selling them on craigslist after they fell off the back of a truck.

>>1004219
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Loudspeaker#Driver_types

We're not selling OP a cab though (even then if you actually read cab sales descriptions they do use those words), we're helping him build one, how is he to buy the correct driver when he doesn't know the types?

Also the kickdrum comment was referring to bassfaggots in their cars who blast nothing but the lowest notes of their music from 12pm to 5am. I'm referring to audio design in general, as I work designing and building line array systems for tour groups.

The names aren't important for much else other than buying the driver from the parts supplier in this context, but it is a pretty important detail when doing so.

>>1004232
Someone or another will be selling OP speakers if he plans to build a cab. Instrument speakers are different from hi-fi and public address speakers, and the terminology's different. If you're building a guitar cab you look for a "guitar amp speaker" of the size, impedance and power rating you're looking for. It will be the right driver if those specs match up and it's sold as a "guitar amp speaker".

If I'm wondering whether I should trust someone's knowledge about instrument amp parts, I get pretty wary when they start using hi-fi terminology out of context, especially if we're talking technical.

>>1004242
>You're dumb because you use terms I don't use and hardly understand
Celestion sells drivers as guitar midrange, full range, and bass LFDs (which is what woofer is lingo for).

But I mean hey, one of the biggest sellers of drivers for guitar and bass are wrong because of the size of your vocabulary right?