We know that the dye of burned discs is less reflective than the pits/valleys of pressed discs and that the transition from pit to valley is
not as sharp on the dye of burned discs.
It is rumored that playing burned games will cause the disc drive to wear out and become inoperable.
Is this really true?
How does this happen?
Does the diode burn out from having to squeeze its lazer harder with more electricity?
Does the motor die from having to move the laser head too often?
Do burned games have longer load times?
How long does it usually take playing burned games to ruin a console's drive?
Do burned music CDs also wear out the drive over time?
Do you need to adjust the laser potentiometer in the drive to calibrate it for CD-Rs?
What is the best burning program to use?
What settings and configuration to adjust for this program?
Do certain operating systems have better access or control of CD burner drives?
What is the best brand of CD-Rs to use?
How do you identify counterfeit CD-Rs that are really from another manufacturer?
Do lightscribe/laserflash discs have good quality?
Are CD-Rs more susceptible to disc-rot than pressed discs?
Does the color of CD-R data surface (regular silver, gold, black, etc) affect its readability?
Do consoles have an easier time reading CD-RWs with their crystal formulas?
Do mini-CD-Rs or business card CD-Rs work in consoles as long as the game data is small enough to fit?
What speed should CD-Rs be burned at?
Is it best to use premium or legacy CD drives to burn games?
Some game backups downloaded online have the music/cutscenes ripped to reduce size.
I have heard that some rips change to CD audio to MP3. How does this work if the console doesn't natively support MP3 playback?
How can I identify these degraded disc images?
What is the difference between .iso vs .bin+.cue vs .ccd+.img+.sub? Which is considered best?
We know that the Dreamcast has a GD-ROM drive not a CD-ROM drive.
Does this mean that burned games on CD-R are especially damaging to Dreamcasts?
Will playing pressed music CDs eventually destroy the Dreamcast drive too?
>>2877897
Holy shit, you have a lot of questions about this. I think this is the most questions I've ever seen asked about a particular subject at once.
Unfortunately, I don't have answers to any of them.
Most of the questions here are more fit to be posted on /g/.
>>2878152
Not necessarily.
>>2877897
>>2877898
Imo
I have been using about 70 to 100 discs for the Dreamcast and PCE CD. From what I see it hasn't affected anything yet, the people who are saying "Your laser will wear out" or "it will deteriorate faster" haven't given any prove of this.
I have used very cheap cd's and haven't seen anything unusual happen in any of the burned games. For disc burnning speed lower is better, though I can't say for sure if it really makes a difference.
Burned games take just as long to load as will any other cd also you don't need to readjust the potentiometer.
Imgburn is probally the best since it supports many filetypes, you don't have to adjust anything just drop the .cue file (if there is one) or the cd extension file (like ISO, cdi or Mds).
There shouldn't be any difference burning on Windows Linux or Mac.
You can't really tell if a burned copy is from another manufacter. Can't say for sure if Cd-r''s are more susceptible to disc rot. Disc rot mostly occurs because of bad storage of the disc. Also color of the discs surface doesn''t affect anything.
consoles can't read CD-rw only cd-r because cd-rw has a different structure which only special lenses can read.
What kind of cd drives you use doesn't really matter as long as you set it at the lowest speed.
Games that have the ost, music or cutscenes reduced in size are mostly ment to be played on emulators. Don't know how you can degraged thse dics. Image filetypes don't really matter, but for everything before the DVD area: bin or iso + .cue is recommend.
From what I know Dreamcast games most of the time don't use the more than 700 (800 at most) mb. This made it very easy to burn copies for most of the Dreamcast library.
Could someone for the love god. Post this at the fucking useless sticky?
From what I've heard, the DC has to work harder to read burned CDs because the data is toward the inside of the disc rather than the outside like on a retail disc.
I don't know though. My DC has always been really picky about which discs it wants to read.
>>2877897
>>2877898
What are the best websites to get high quality CD images?
If they are invitation only how should one go about getting an invite?
Which sites should be avoided because they host poor quality images?
Can you find good rips of console game discs on Usenet?
Is there a database online with hashes of original games you can compare your downloaded image against?
Some people say .iso images are worse or undesirable compared to other image formats. Is there any reason why?
A burned game can have errors because the rip was bad or because the burn was bad.
What do these errors actually look like in game?
Do games tend to freeze if they are corrupt?
Does it always freeze in the same place/time or is it different each time?
Do corrupt images have warped video, sound, or text?
Do corrupt images give the kind of amusing results that databent ROMs do?
e.g. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pYGv53dbpvo
Do some games have a checksum code that refuses to boot if the data is different?
Some people have rearranged the tracks of their disc images into a different order than the original game so as to get faster load times and/or reduced drive wear.
What do you think of this practice?
Is there any benefit to putting a burned disc into your computer drive for use by an emulator instead of mounting an .iso file?
It is known that one should use a felt pen and not a ball-point pen to label burnt games to avoid damaging the disc.
If one was to hire a local painter to paint elaborate artwork on the burnt discs that looks better than what lightscribe/laserflash can do, what paint should he use so as not to chemically degrade the CD-R?
Will the application of this paint increase the weight of the disc to the point where it spins slower or the drive motor wears out sooner?
How should we refer to backup games on CD-R:
Burned game or Burnt game?
>>2878552
>>2878189 this guy again
Theisozone or Emuparadise
Don't know if there are any sites you shouldn't go to but Coolrom brings malware.
When there are any errors it usually is artifacts or audio skips you know the thing It can freeze the game but this depends on the game itself, most of the time the freezes happen at the same places sometimes they don't
>Is there any benefit to putting a burned disc into your computer drive for use by an emulator instead of mounting an .iso file? Space maybe.
>How should we refer to backup games on CD-R:
are you serious?
Burned game or Burnt game?
>>2878189
How do I tell the difference between perfect, 1:1 isos and a lower quality one? Before I download it, I mean.
>>2877897
>It is rumored that playing burned games will cause the disc drive to wear out and become inoperable.
False.
>Does the diode burn out from having to squeeze its lazer harder with more electricity?
The diode has a limited lifetime that wears out with age, but yes, in theory, lower reflectivity of the media forces the diode enough to cause a noticeable reduction in its life expectancy. I don't know of any data supporting this, but that's the initial logical conclusion.
>Does the motor die from having to move the laser head too often?
If the drive is well built, the diode will probably die before that. On a HDD, this is of no concern, but on a ODD, the mechanical system should last a very long time and likewise, it should be of no concern.
>Do burned games have longer load times?
It should be no longer than pressed discs, if it have acceptable levels of burst and reading errors. If the burning was completely successful with zero writing errors, there should be no difference.
>How long does it usually take playing burned games to ruin a console's drive?
The reflectivity is what matters. Original PlayStation discs are arguably worse due to the black dye. There is no common method for home users to measure the reflectivity of a disc, and there is no data to suggest what would be the ideal levels.
There is also no data on what the average lifetime of a given drive should be.
>Do burned music CDs also wear out the drive over time?
Being burned doesn't imply it will wear out faster. Audio CDs of any kind may be harsher than a game disc, since it is continuously read whereas a data disc may not request reading when all the necessary data is stored in RAM. In practice, the laser is always active so it should make no difference.
>Do you need to adjust the laser potentiometer in the drive to calibrate it for CD-Rs?
I think this was necessary for the GameCube, but I'm not sure. Unless it is explicitly mentioned, then it's not needed.
>>2877897
>What is the best burning program to use?
As long as you burn it right, it makes no difference. ImgBurn is great.
>What settings and configuration to adjust for this program?
Set the lowest speed your drive supports, like 8x or 10x.
>Do certain operating systems have better access or control of CD burner drives?
No. But some third-party drivers like SPTI claim improvements to burning and reading accuracy and speed. ImgBurn warns the contrary. There's no need to use anything like that, just use your OS's standard drivers which conform to basic standards, it's your drive's firmware that will dictate anything else.
>What is the best brand of CD-Rs to use?
Taiyo Yuden. They sold their optical media division this year though, to Verbatim I think, which is the second best.
>How do you identify counterfeit CD-Rs that are really from another manufacturer?
Check the identification codes, though that can be faked too. Make sure to buy from reputable dealers. I don't know of any online.
>Do lightscribe/laserflash discs have good quality?
If you really want to print artwork on your discs, I recommend using a regular inkjet printer with CD printing support.
>Are CD-Rs more susceptible to disc-rot than pressed discs?
Absolutely.
>Does the color of CD-R data surface (regular silver, gold, black, etc) affect its readability?
Yes, but I don't have the data on which have better reflectivity. Black is arguably worse. Gold is a gimmick. You might have seen those "Gold layer archival discs" from Delkin. They are a SCAM.
>Do consoles have an easier time reading CD-RWs with their crystal formulas?
RW media is pretty harsh on the diode. I strongly recommend not using them.
>Do mini-CD-Rs or business card CD-Rs work in consoles as long as the game data is small enough to fit?
Yes, but the discs themselves may be of terrible quality. Just stick to quality regular discs.
This is weird. I was just googling this stuff right before I saw this thread. I obsess over stupid crap like this too. Anyway, from what I hear, burned Cd's only last about 10 - 15 years. This is not a big deal, however, since you can always just burn more CD's.
>>2877897
>We know that the dye of burned discs is less reflective than ... pressed discs
Technically true, but they are still within the margin deemed acceptable per the CD standards, otherwise they wouldn't be compatible.
>Is this really true? How does this happen?
When a sector of a disc is only partially readable, the drive controller will issue a re-read. If there are more read errors, you get more re-reads, which puts more wear on the laser. That's all there is to it on the low level, but remember that even on a 1x drive, you read 75 sectors PER SECOND. Leave a 4x drive running for an hour and you have a million sector reads.
There are two things you have to keep in consideration however.
- One is that lasers wear out, so older lasers will need to do more re-reads, and that will make them wear out more.
- the other is that CDRs don't have pits physically pressed into them, they have a chemical layer that is modified by heat in a pattern that looks like pits. This chemical layer can be affected by lots of other things, that makes it deteriorate: bacteria, humidity, UV rays (leave a CDR on the sun for long and it won't be readable anymore), and so on. Worst of all, some CDRs, especially older ones, used an inherently unstable dye that self destructed in half a year just from contact with air.
So CDRs will deteriorate over time, making them harder for the laser to read over time, which puts more wear on the laser. The discs you burned yesterday probably won't "hurt" the laser as much as the same type of disc you burned five years ago.
This also happens with pressed discs, just at a much slower rate. There are also some original discs which are known to have faulty printing process, causing discs to be unreadable out of the box.
>Does the motor die from having to move the laser head too often?
Yes, everything wears out eventually. Motors, like all other components, are designed with a certain number of work hours as well.
>>2877897
>Do burned games have longer load times?
If the drive doesn't "see" them as good, and needs to do re-reads, then yes, because those re-reads take up extra time.
This depends on the laser and the CD however, and can be as bad with an original disc too. It is entirely on a case-by-case basis. CDRs, by average, are less reflective, but only because we are dealing with tons of low quality brands, low quality burners, and heavily used up lasers that can be upwards thirty years old.
>How long does it usually take playing burned games to ruin a console's drive?
Varies on a case per case basis.
>Do burned music CDs also wear out the drive over time?
On drives that play audio CDs as audio CDs, they shouldn't, since those don't need re-reads. The "unreadable" music samples will just get interpolated from the previous and next valid sample. The difference is small enough that the human ear cannot hear it.
However if the drive ready audio CDs as digital data, then it depends on what software you use and how many re-reads you do on the audio part.
Some audio CD protections used this to their advantage, one of them was Cactus Data Shield (look it up on wikipedia). They purposefully put bad sectors on the disc. Audio CD players got around it normally, but PCs could not rip these discs securely because of these errors. The only way was to use burst mode ripping, which could add jitter errors.
>>2877897
>Do you need to adjust the laser potentiometer in the drive to calibrate it for CD-Rs?
Normally you shouldn't, but older lasers may be worn out so much that they need to be re-calibrated. Recalibrating is actually a good thing to do on old lasers since it will make them do less re-reads and slow their demise.
Increasing the pot will change the amount of voltage fed to the diode (the potmeter is just an adjustable resistor). Now you may think that increasing the voltage will lead to the diode burning out faster. But even the higher voltages must full within the tolerance of the pickup. If simply tuning the pot would allow you to feed destructive amount of voltages onto the diode, that would be the equivalent of a "destroy me" button, and it would also defeat the point of having a potmeter in there.
So increasing the laser pot shouldn't make the laser diode burn out faster. But incorrect calibration leads to worse read performance which leads to more re-reads, which lead to more wear on the drive.
>>2877897
>What is the best burning program to use?
Whatever gets the job done.
Imgburn actually does not support a lot of things properly (like subcode burning and copy protections), and is known to randomly do coasters if you have Daemon Tools installed.
CloneCD has the most support for burning protections as I recall. Nero also used to be good but I don't know how the newer versions work. Alcohol 120% is so so.
For Dreamcast games, for some odd reason I could only ever burn them using Discjuggler. Nothing else produced working discs.
>What settings and configuration to adjust for this program?
Configuration depends on the type of stuff you burn (protections, etc).
For speed, pick the middle of what the drive can do. Too low speeds will make the burner think that they are burning an older media, which had different chemical composition, and required different laser power, which aren't suitable for modern discs. Too high speeds will of course not allow enough time for the chemicals on the disc to properly align.
Anyone telling you to burn at lowest speeds is a moron.
>Do certain operating systems have better access or control of CD burner drives?
Not in a way that it would matter. Some systems may have a more robust general purpose reading layer, but it all depends on what the drive allows. You would need to rewrite the drive firmware to get "better control" over the cd burner.
>What is the best brand of CD-Rs to use?
This is kind of irrelevant since same brand discs may use different manufacturers, and the same manufacturers may change chemical compositions over time.
I hear that Taiyo Yuden and Kodak has the best reputation, but don't go buying spindles of those. Not until you have tested them, anyway.
>Are CD-Rs more susceptible to disc-rot than pressed discs?
Varies on a disc per disc basis for both pressed discs and CDRs. But CDRs in general have shorter lives.
>>2877897
>Does the color of CD-R data surface (regular silver, gold, black, etc) affect its readability?
On old discs (mid to late 1990s), the type of colour corresponded to the chemical composition of the disc. However manufacturers got around this by using additives that simply changed the dye colour to one that had a better reputation.
So no, it ultimately doesn't matter.
>Do consoles have an easier time reading CD-RWs with their crystal formulas?
CD-RWs usually have worse readability than CD-Rs, and some consoles can't even read them by default, unless you recalibrate their pickups.
>Do mini-CD-Rs or business card CD-Rs work in consoles as long as the game data is small enough to fit?
As long as the CD-Rs have the same reflection properties, and the consoles don't try to read outside the disc area (so the data fits on the disc), then yeah, they will work.
Really, those things are nothing more than regular CDs at a custom shape. I have one shaped like a Santa Claus head, with Christmas songs on the disc.
>>2877898
>Is it best to use premium or legacy CD drives to burn games?
Legacy drives work better for legacy discs. Modern drive work better with modern discs. I can't think of any reason to use legacy drives, really - unless you want to do something highly drive specific (Plextools, Lightscribe, etc).
>I have heard that some rips change to CD audio to MP3. How does this work if the console doesn't natively support MP3 playback?
The audio tracks are compressed to MP3, and decompressed when burning. They are separate tracks, so this can be done, and the "burned" disc will be of the same size as before the compression - but audio fidelity will be lost irreversibly.
You can use various tools like auCDtect to analyse the tracks for mpeg compression patterns. This is all guesswork however, since it will fail on discs that have such patterns (despite not being compressed).
Reduced quality cutscenes are harder to identify since they have the game files altered to do so. This happens most often on Dreamcast games, sometimes on dual layer DVD games (those were a pain). 1990s era PC games sometimes had some content ripped for size as well, but it would be very uncommon to find them nowadays.
>>2879026
>>>/vr/stg
>>2879026
>this is probably the most autistic thread ive ever seen on /vr/
Asking advice on how to burn games is autistic? Jesus..
>>2877898
>What is the difference between .iso vs .bin+.cue vs .ccd+.img+.sub? Which is considered best?
Iso only holds one data track, and no info on the sector layout or the disc layout.
Bin+cue can have multiple tracks of different format in one file, or even across multiple files, and the cue describes this layout in a text form. It can also describe audio pregaps, postgaps, and can support data tracks of many different formats, some mimicking the CD layout much more closely. It could also store subcodes but rarely did so.
However a bin+cue only holds the type of images it was specified to hold, so in practice it is possible for it to have no more information than a ISO file does. It all depends on how the disc was ripped.
CCD is similar to bin+cue, but uses a different text descriptor, holds subcodes in a separate file, and supports more things than bin+cue can (for example multisession discs).
The bin and img files are really the same on both, blobs of data, with either the cue or the ccd specifying what is inside them, where each tracks start, etc. So all those formats are forward compatible to an extent. An iso could work if renamed to bin and had a cue sheet next to it specifying a mode1/2048 data track. A bin could be renamed to img and have the ccd file generated next, or a ccd rip can have a cue sheet and retain backwards compatibility with software that recognizes cue but not ccd files.
However you cannot put things in each file that the format doesn't support, eg. no multiple tracks or ECC data in iso, no multisession in bin+cue.
Objectively, CCD is the most powerful, but it all depends on what settings were used for ripping. Like, if you use fake subcode data, leave out ECC and only rip the first data track, then a CCD image won't be better than an ISO.
But if you want a Jaguar CD rip (which needed multisession and raw sectors), then clonecd is the only one that'll work from the three formats.
>>2879026
"wtf why wud it even matter lmao xD who cares anyway fukin rofl u guys r loosers even i think so iam gamer too"
- You
Guys the real problem you all have to understand here is that all this shit just eventually dies. CD's / readers don't last forever, they aren't manufactured that way either. why else are cd-r's that cheap.
>>2879041
Then why redump use BIN+CUE?
>>2879039
Advice? Who fucking cares. Half of OPs questions are arbitrary. Its simple. Burn the game to a disc, preferably Verbatim and play the game. Done.
>>2879041
cont.
There are other formats, like Discjuggler CDI, Nero NRG, and Alcohol MDS/MDF. They support as much stuff as CloneCD does.
The major difference is that they mirror the physical layout of the disc as well: they include the "pregap", they mix in subcodes next to the data sectors, and so on. It is why they are more suitable for things like SD readers, where data must be sent to the system as they were on the disc, and you have limited resources to mux or generate the missing data.
But note that even on those you can "fake" subcodes or generate ECC data.
In fact some CD drives cannot even read ECC or subcodes, or even multisession, and ripping software sometimes generates those on the fly (a lot of subcodes are easy to generate for example).
>>2879051
>Then why redump use BIN+CUE?
Because they started up as a cue sheet database for PSX games, and things snowballed from there. And it is enough for all CD based consoles except the Jaguar CD. Note that you won't see any Jaguar CD dumps in their database.
Also, subcodes cannot be dumped securely.
>>2879054
Why are you displeased with people seeking technical information on subjects that aren't of your interest on the Internet?
What in particular bothers you the most about it, that makes you so angry?
Have you considered that your idea of "autism" may encompass feelings or attitudes that you personally have? For example, being irrationally irritated about people discussing things you don't like? Is there any reason you choose this word in particular, "autism", to insult someone?
>>2877898
>Does this mean that burned games on CD-R are especially damaging to Dreamcasts?
Dreamcast discs are a special case. The data on the burned discs is aligned differently. CAV versus vs. CLV, data being at the start of the disc versus highly concentrated on the outer parts, and so on.
A burned copy would need to be hacked to take all of these issues in place, and work around them. Sometimes this is just not possible due to physical limitations. For example due to the GDs having more dense data on the outer ring, they had a much lower average seek time. If a game took advantage of this, it would end up loading stuff much slower on a CDR. Shenmue is one example, I think.
But other than the increased drive seeking, CDRs shouldn't damage the system more, beyond the usual considerations (low quality CDRs causing re-reads, etc).
Of course you can always end up burning a disc that did not have its data files sorted for the quickest access, which would exacerbate the problem to the extreme. This is how Geist Force ended up killing Dreamcasts.
>Will playing pressed music CDs eventually destroy the Dreamcast drive too?
They shouldn't, since they should be played as audio discs at 1x speed like on a tabletop CD player (same as the Saturn, Sega CD, Playstation, 3do, etc do). But I don't know the drive details. IIRC the first console that tried reading audio tracks as digital data, instead of passing them directly to the DAC, was the Playstation 2.
>>2878152
>Most of the questions here are more fit to be posted on /g/.
/g/ only cares about Linux and videocard threads.
>>2878552
>What are the best websites to get high quality CD images?
For the highest quality, buy them on ebay and rip them for yourself.
>If they are invitation only how should one go about getting an invite?
By asking some of your friends for one.
>Which sites should be avoided because they host poor quality images?
... this really varies on a case per case basis.
>Can you find good rips of console game discs on Usenet?
ditto.
>Is there a database online with hashes of original games you can compare your downloaded image against?
Redump has some but their database has been often criticized. I heard that at some point they just added all scene rips they could, or directly copied numbers from Trurip dumps.
>Some people say .iso images are worse or undesirable compared to other image formats. Is there any reason why?
iso only holds one track, no disc layout, no ECC data, no mode2 format tracks, no audio tracks, no subcodes, no multisession. Only the ISO9660 file system for one data track, nothing more. If your game uses nothing but that, then you are fine. But if it uses more, then iso is not sufficient.
>>2879054
>Advice? Who fucking cares
>Its simple. Burn the game to a disc
Some people may not have the experience of burning discs as you do. You don't have to rage.
>>2878552
>What do these errors actually look like in game?
Can be anything, from graphic errors, to sound errors, to gameplay errors, to crashes, to the game not booting, or to the disc not being recognized.
It depends on which one of the up to 7 billion potential bits on the disc is "bad" (assuming a 700 meg CD with subcodes).
>Do games tend to freeze if they are corrupt?
>Does it always freeze in the same place/time or is it different each time?
>Do corrupt images have warped video, sound, or text?
>Do corrupt images give the kind of amusing results that databent ROMs do?
Possibly. It depends on the error.
However if the rip has ECC data inside, then you'll just get a "can't read sector" error, which sometimes locks up or resets the game, depending on how critical the data was.
If the error is on an audio track, you might get a small "pop" in the music. (unless the music is stored inside the data track, then it depends on how the game plays back the music)
Really there are billions of variables here, there is no clear answer.
>Do some games have a checksum code that refuses to boot if the data is different?
Some maybe do, most don't.
CDs also have Error Correction Codes in data tracks to identify read errors. If your cd image doesn't have them (such as with Iso rips), then errors will get through as-is. If you DO have them, then you get an entire sector unreadable, and a clear indication of there being an error somewhere. ECC errors can be corrected prior burning (with CD Mage), or on-the-fly by some burning software. However there are also copy protections which rely on ECC errors...
>>2878552
>Some people have rearranged the tracks of their disc images into a different order than the original game so as to get faster load times and/or reduced drive wear.What do you think of this practice?
It is necessary on discs where you cannot burn in the exact same layout as the original disc. Dreamcast and double layer DVDs are the only examples I know of.
I haven't heard of anyone doing this for systems that don't need it.
>Is there any benefit to putting a burned disc into your computer drive for use by an emulator instead of mounting an .iso file?
Yes, PC drives sometimes aren't fast enough or compatible enough. For example on Saturn emulators, there used to be a bug, where if you used a real CD, the game Nights into Dreams locked up prior to the boss fight, due to some drives not being capable of as low seek times as the Saturn drive.
And of course you also have the benefit of being able to have thousands of disc on your PC, and you do not put any extra wear on your optical drive, or your physical discs.
>If one was to hire a local painter to paint elaborate artwork on the burnt discs that looks better than what lightscribe/laserflash can do, what paint should he use so as not to chemically degrade the CD-R?
Paint it in a digital medium, then print it on CD sized stickers.
>Will the application of this paint increase the weight of the disc to the point where it spins slower or the drive motor wears out sooner?
I think the difference would be negligible.
>How should we refer to backup games on CD-R:
You can call them Susan, if it makes you happy.
Thank you friend Anons who have contributed to this thread, it has been an excellent read so far. I just wish I could contribute something helpful, but I suppose this will do instead of another "AUTISMXD" post.
Since this seems a possibly ok thread to post this in - provided you have an appropriate drive for a console, be it old or new gen - is it possible to just swap out one that is not working for a working one?
>>2879148
Make a guide or a wiki and ask the guy(s) who make the gametechwiki threads to add them.
>>2878798
>Original PlayStation discs are arguably worse due to the black dye.
I'm not sure if this is strictly true. The discs have to reflect infrared light, not visible light. They may reflect that as good as "normal" discs can.
>There is no common method for home users to measure the reflectivity of a disc, and there is no data to suggest what would be the ideal levels.
There kind of is, but you would be measuring the readability on a PC drive, not on the console drive. Simply scan the disc for C1/C2/CU errors. This will tell you the amount of, and depending on software the location of, any sectors which had to be corrected-on-the-fly when reading.
This isn't a direct measurement of the reflectivity of the disc as you would put it, but it allows you to scan the "condition" of how well the disc can be read.
>There is also no data on what the average lifetime of a given drive should be.
This might be possible to put together if you know the exact parts the drive uses, and look up the specs sheet of each part for MTBF (mean time between failure) values. Of course it would all be manufacturer given values, not real life conditions, and really just averaging a lot of averaged data, so probably pretty pointless.
>>2878798
>Audio CDs of any kind may be harsher than a game disc, since it is continuously read whereas a data disc may not request reading when all the necessary data is stored in RAM.
Wrong! Audio CDs are significantly less harsh for many reasons:
- they stream data at 1x speed,
- they do not enforce re-reading of a sector on errors since the missing audio samples can be interpolated (an audio cd player will only re-read a sector if you have catastrophic read errors).
- they stream data continuously, and seeking is limited to user input.
Game CDs have to do a lot of seeking programmatically, between different files, or even different parts of one file. This puts a huge amount of strain on the drives that audio CD players were not suited for.
The original Mega CD drives were notoriously unreliable for this reason: they put normal audio CD drive logic in them. There was an anecdote by a Sega engineer, where he explained that this caused drives to burst into flames, and they found this days before launching the system.
>In practice, the laser is always active so it should make no difference.
It isn't always active, just when it has to read something.
The motor will also keep spinning the disc even if the drive is not used, because this puts less wear then stopping and then spinning up again, but most importantly because you can get better seek times if the disc is already spinning.
>>2879154
>Since this seems a possibly ok thread to post this in - provided you have an appropriate drive for a console, be it old or new gen - is it possible to just swap out one that is not working for a working one?
It depends. If it is an entire drive assembly, complete with all the controller ICs, and uses the same connection and same protocol as the drive you want to replace (optimally it is the exact same type of drive), then yes.
If it is just a pickup or a basic lens+motor combo, then even if everything else matches (motherboard, CD controller on the other console, etc), you may end up needing to calibrate the laser after replacement.
>>2878675
The only way to trust a dump as a 1:1 copy is to trust projects like Redump, TOSEC, NoIntro, GoodSet, TruRip, etc. If a particular dump isn't from any of those projects, you could check the md5/sha1 hash, or at least the CRC, if none of those are available, then there's no way.
>>2878152
Merely being about CDs would get 10 shitposts for every 1 seriouspost, at best.
/g/ is a memester shithole.
>>2879257
>The only way to trust a dump as a 1:1 copy
Doing a 1:1 copy of a disc is physically impossible.
Even if it was possible, burning one is also impossible.
redump/trurip is the closest that is possible, and even then they are only as good as you can get on consumer hardware, which is not a real 1:1 dump.
>>2879293
What? It is perfectly possible, unless you're talking about shit like the lead-in track. Sub-channel data can be dumped.
>>2879304
>It is perfectly possible, unless you're talking about shit like the lead-in track.
You can only dump what the drive allows you to read, and the drive doesn't allow you to read the lead-in (completely), or to read outside the TOC, or to read descrambled data, etc. Or going lower: to read data before it was EFM encoded.
So, no, you can't do a real 1:1 physical copy. At MOST you can make a copy of all the user data, which is what redump does, and they do it with pre-existing software and a ridiculous amount of manual workarounds.
To do a real 1:1 physical copy, you would need to go beyond what consumer hardware + software allows. You'd have to code your own firmware, attach a serial data dumper to the drive logic, possibly build your own drive.
>Sub-channel data can be dumped.
Not securely, since the format itself is not secure. You won't get a matching subcode dump from two separate but identical discs.
can someone help me with this problem? i simply cannot properly burn gta:liberty city stories because after finishing burning there comes error "failed to finalize". also tried isos from three different sites. is it drm of some sort?
>>2877897
There are ECM & APE guides on emuparadise. Those go into split audio tracks a bit, though i'm not sure about mp3s. They also have links to various master cue lists, so you can reconstruct a disc image from split data/audio if you have to.
>>2878987
>and is known to randomly do coasters if you have Daemon Tools installed
cool story bro. literally burned hundreds and hundreds of discs without issue
>>2879694
>cool story bro. literally burned hundreds and hundreds of discs without issue
Imgburn literally tells you at the startup that it'll have problems with it. Pic related, SPTD is the driver that Daemon Tools uses.
It's a known conflict.
>>2879702
Huh. Maybe this explains why the music CD I burned didn't work. I'll have to check into this. Thanks, anon.
You kids are wasting oxygen that could better be used by higher life forms such as plankton.
>>2880148
Woah, you might wanna slow down there, that's really edgy.
>>2880148
Literally reddit-tier post.
Congrats on the worst shitpost on /vr/ of the year 2015.
Please help, I have burned Policenauts for the PS1 and some other game which made, like the aforementioned one, excessive use of streamed XA audio, and no matter how the game works good and loads fast, some kind of XA audio (sometimes streamed in pairs with FMV can't seem to load. It all works fine but no audio comes from it. I mean, I can sort of guess how that peculiar kind of ADPCM audio is accessed, and some times it works even with FMVs, some times it doesn't. Of course by this I mean some parts always work like the post intro segment of Policenauts, and some parts always fail to work, like the Konami logo and the very first intro.
I have tried some FMV game like Tekken 3 which I had a real copy of and all went sweet, so I don't really know if it's a problem of that peculiar PS1 unit or I just fucked up when burning the games, because every other game that didn't use that kind of XA audio worked wonders.
CDs were burned at 4x DAO. And pic is unrelated by the way, it's only there to grab attention.
>>2880216
Perhaps it's the image you have. Try a Redump version.
>>2880221
I got my images from emuparadise and I think that's the best place to grab good dumps.
I want to stress they work fine on any emulator I tried. How do I know if it's a redump?
>>2880225
Well, then make sure you're burning it right. Look up a few guides for burning PS1 discs, ImgBurn always worked for me, but maybe there is something in particular that must be done for that game.
>>2877897
While we're on the subject of burned games, can anyone give a solution for why my burn of pop'n music 6 gives an error message about the disk being of the wrong region? Is some special action needed for foreign games to work? I'm using a US system and a goldfinger device.
>>2880216
>CDs were burned at 4x DAO.
Burn at a normal speed, not the slowest your drive does. It is detrimental on modern drives to use the slowest speeds, unless you actually use 4x speed media.
Try burning with some different app, Imgburn is not perfectly reliable.
It is also possible that whatever drive you use is not compatible with Mode 2 tracks. Some drives just don't work with those for some reason.
>>2879336
What burning program do you use?
>>2877897
This thread is a shining example of why disc based systems should have never been allowed here.
>>2880650
This post is a shining example of why you shouldn't be posting here.
>>2880650
>people discussing what is best to do/use
>WHE SHOULDN'T ALLOW ANY DISCUSION ABOUT THING
>>2877898
>What speed should CD-Rs be burned at?
near to max
the important bit is to not use the machine you're burning on while burning (so there aren't holes in the burn from the write buffer emptying out)
if you have an older drive and older media, burn slow
>Is it best to use premium or legacy CD drives to burn games?
use a decent modern drive
>Some game backups downloaded online have the music/cutscenes ripped to reduce size.
>I have heard that some rips change to CD audio to MP3. How does this work if the console doesn't natively support MP3 playback?
the data written is decoded back to PCM when burned, you aren't writing the raw MP3 data to the disc
>How can I identify these degraded disc images?
they're usually in BIN+CUE and then have a bunch of MP3s, it's really obvious
>What is the difference between .iso vs .bin+.cue vs .ccd+.img+.sub? Which is considered best?
CCD+IMG+SUB stores more data (the SUB is the disc's subchannel data, which isn't there in BIN+CUE or ISO). ISO doesn't do multi-track games (eg, PS1).
CCD+IMG+SUB is technically the best of the three, but it's often kind of useless since a lot of images have badly dumped subchannel data.
For the most part, look for good BIN+CUE.
If making your own images, just use whatever native format your imaging software uses.
>We know that the Dreamcast has a GD-ROM drive not a CD-ROM drive.
>Does this mean that burned games on CD-R are especially damaging to Dreamcasts?
the GD-ROM drive was specifically made to play CDs as well
>Will playing pressed music CDs eventually destroy the Dreamcast drive too?
In general, pressed discs should be fine. If there's any damage, it's certainly negligible.
also, music CDs are probably the least likely to cause any drive damage, they spin at 1x and you don't need to seek much
>>2880225
Emuparadise is a shit place to grab good dumps, unless you're talking about their forum, which is just them grabbing Redump anyway.
Go to Isozone or Edge Emulation.
>>2880650
GTFO.
Good job, autistic OP. You created a good thread. You have used your evil derp powers for good.
It's a fuckin' Christmas miracle.
>>2880716
le omatonusmy
>>2880687
>the important bit is to not use the machine you're burning on while burning (so there aren't holes in the burn from the write buffer emptying out)if you have an older drive and older media, burn slow
This only matters if your PC is slow as all hell and can't properly stream the ~1-2 mbyte/sec required for burning. It's good advice, yeah, but you can still browse 4chan while burning, it won't cause problems, unless you are using some extremely old machine.
That, and all modern drives can resume burning if the buffer ends up emptied, and it will not cause any noticeable problems.
>CCD+IMG+SUB is technically the best of the three, but it's often kind of useless since a lot of images have badly dumped subchannel data.
You only need to preserve subchannel data if you are copying CD+G channels, so that doesn't really matter.
And many drives can neither rip or burn subcodes but instead pre-generate them.
>>2880583
This post was deleted, but as far as cheap CDRs damaging the Dreamcast drive: it is not caused by the CDR quality, it is caused because you put GD-ROMs onto CDs.
CDs have the data packed less densely than a GD-ROM, which means that the laser has to move back-and-forth longer distances and more often, and this will wear out the drive faster.
But it depends on the game and how the cd rip was packed together. For example a small game like Ikaruga will not have such issues since it rarely reads the disc to begin with. But a poorly authored title like Garou MOTW will cause huge pain on the drive, even if you use the original GD-ROM.
Are CD-RW discs also harsh on the laser diode of computer CD drives?
If I use CD-RWs often in my PC will it wear out the drive causing it to have trouble reading discs or make errors burning discs?
Should CDs be stored side-by-side vertically or stacked horizontally to minimize disc rot?
There are a few different types of chemical dyes that were developed for CD-Rs.
Which dye is most resistant to disc rot and has the most reflectivity/sharpness?
Are modern CD-Rs standardized on one formula or are they still using different types of dye?
Is it possible to identify the type of dye used in a stack of CD-Rs by scent?
If one were to place stickers on burned games signifying they have been completed ("beaten") would the weight of these stickers cause the disc to wobble during playback? Would this wobble cause problems?
If you walk around on the floor while a disc is being burned will the vibrations affect the disc burn causing errors?
If you use the PC (watching youtube videos, for example) while the disc is being burned will this affect the burn causing errors on the disc?
Every time I start IMGburn it says in the log:
"Duplex Secure's SPTD driver can have a detrimental effect on drive performance."
This software comes as part of the Daemon tools image mounting program and it is known to cause coaster (failed burn) discs with IMGburn sometimes.
I could not find SPTD in the programs list in the control panel, in the device manager, or in the Daemon tools settings.
Will I have to uninstall Daemon tools to get rid of this error?
Last time I burned a disc (Dreamcast) using IMGburn it failed the verification check saying:
"Failed to Read Sector 4 - Reason: L-EC Uncorrectable Error"
What caused this and how do I fix it?
To maximize the life of console drives it is necessary to do maintenance.
I have identified three procedures:
Blow dust out of the drive with compressed air.
Wipe the laser lens with rubbing alcohol(cue tip) and let it dry.
Clean the round gears, worm gear, sled rails (any other parts?) and put new white lithium grease on them. If you have a sliding tray system remove the rubber belt and wash it with water. Use rubbing alcohol to clean the pulley the belt goes on.
Are there any other techniques to perform?
What brand of white lithium grease should I use? Or should I use some other lubricant?
How do you apply white lithium grease? Do you use finger, spray or some kind of tool?
For drives that are not top loaders it is difficult to access the laser diode for cleaning.
Are special cleaning discs with a brush on the surface effective in cleaning the lens?
Where can I find the factory default spec for the laser diode potentiometer screw for each console?
If I play loud music from another device such as a cassette deck attached to an amp attached to floor standing speakers will the sound vibrations cause problems for a PC that is burning a game?
Do discs that have experienced disc rot smell different than pristine discs?
Is quarantining discs that exhibit disc rot an effective way to prevent the spread of disc rot to other discs?
>>2880829
>Are CD-RW discs also harsh on the laser diode of computer CD drives?
>If I use CD-RWs often in my PC will it wear out the drive causing it to have trouble reading discs or make errors burning discs?
Yes.
>Should CDs be stored side-by-side vertically or stacked horizontally to minimize disc rot?
That has no influence on disc rot. The theory is that storing them vertically will prevent gravity from very slowly bending the disc over time. I have no idea if this stuff is serious.
>Which dye is most resistant to disc rot and has the most reflectivity/sharpness?
I don't think there is any data on that.
>Are modern CD-Rs standardized on one formula or are they still using different types of dye?
Different.
>Is it possible to identify the type of dye used in a stack of CD-Rs by scent?
No, only by color. Azo compound discs like those from Verbatim are blue. But it doesn't matter, because they can just tint the dye.
>If one were to place stickers on burned games signifying they have been completed ("beaten") would the weight of these stickers cause the disc to wobble during playback? Would this wobble cause problems?
Yes.
>If you walk around on the floor while a disc is being burned will the vibrations affect the disc burn causing errors?
lol no, unless you're a dinosaur.
>If you use the PC (watching youtube videos, for example) while the disc is being burned will this affect the burn causing errors on the disc?
Only if that strains your HDD so much it fails to feed the ODDs buffer in time.
>Will I have to uninstall Daemon tools to get rid of this error?
You only need to uninstall the SPTD driver, but I don't know if Daemon Tools works without it.
>What caused this and how do I fix it?
Your burn failed. Burn again.
>>2880829
>Are CD-RW discs also harsh on the laser diode of computer CD drives?
If the computer drive in question can read/burn CD-RW discs, then it won't make a significant difference. I mean if you'd only exclusively read cd-rw discs for 4 years it would put more wear on the drive, but you won't do that.
Keep in mind that a good quality PC CD drive can easily last a decade and burn thousands of discs.
>Should CDs be stored side-by-side vertically or stacked horizontally to minimize disc rot?
Orientation doesn't matter. What can make a difference are things humidity, air quality (chemicals in the air that may cause damage to the disc), and what the discs are stored in (jewel case, spindle, those booklet cd holders, etc).
CDRs also have significantly lower lifetime than pressed discs. I have 20 year old discs which still read fine, but also plenty of ones which don't.
>There are a few different types of chemical dyes that were developed for CD-Rs.
Some dyes may be better than others but you don't want to get into differentiating discs based on that, because:
- even the best dyes can have occasional lower quality runs.
- there are many counterfeits out there
- dye colour and scent can be changed with additives
- the ATIP info (which tells you the manufacturer, capacity, etc) can be faked too
>If one were to place stickers on burned games signifying they have been completed ("beaten") would the weight of these stickers cause the disc to wobble during playback?
The weight shouldn't, but keep in mind that some drives "grab" the disc and spin them around (tray loader drives for example). Put a sticker in the wrong place and it may interfere with the drive.
>If you walk around on the floor while a disc is being burned will the vibrations affect the disc burn causing errors?
Walking on the floor probably won't make major enough vibrations.
Don't slam or tilt your PC while burning, though. Some drives can even scratch the cd if you do that, even during reading.
>>2880829
>If you use the PC (watching youtube videos, for example) while the disc is being burned will this affect the burn causing errors on the disc?
Depends on whether your PC has enough resources to do both. If you use a slow as shit PC with little memory, it'll cause buffer underruns (the cd burning buffer will empty while burning). All modern drives have buffer underrun protection however, which means that they can just continue burning and it will not cause any issues on the final disc.
I wouldn't worry about it unless you are trying to burn something on a very bad PC.
>Every time I start IMGburn it says in the log:
SPTD driver is installed with Daemon Tools. I don't remember if it is optional or not. If you don't see it in the control panel, try searching for it in the device manager instead.
Right now I have Daemon installed but I don't have any SPTD warnings (nor do I see it anywhere in the control panel), so I imagine Daemon will work without it.
>Last time I burned a disc (Dreamcast) using IMGburn it failed the verification check saying: What caused this and how do I fix it?
Use a better burning program. I recommend Nero (the original, classic "Burning ROM" one, not the twenty other apps they bloat it with), CloneCD or (especially for Dreamcast games) Discjuggler.
YOU DON'T UNDERSTAND OP IS NOT A HUMAN BEING PLEASE STOP TEACHING IT THIS WON'T END WELL
>>2880869
>Is quarantining discs that exhibit disc rot an effective way to prevent the spread of disc rot to other discs?
You need to place them in a Chernobyl sized concrete coffer to prevent any laser radiation leaks.
Also, if you touch the rotten areas of the disc, the laser rot will spread to your skin and cause skin cancer or leprosy.
CDRs with organic dyes are worse, they may develop the Yersinia pestis bacterium.
>>2880676
>kids bullshitting
Yes. We don't need any more than we already have. Can't wait till xmas break is over and NEETs are the worst if our worries.
>>2879324
>You'd have to code your own firmware, attach a serial data dumper to the drive logic
If that's the case, why hasn't anyone written open source software for this already? Seems like one of the first things that archivists, pirates, etc. would get out of the way.
>>2882425
>If that's the case, why hasn't anyone written open source software for this already? Seems like one of the first things that archivists, pirates, etc. would get out of the way.
Because it would be extremely difficult to do so, only work on whatever drives you do it for, require expensive gear, reverse engineering the existing hardware/firmware, and it would only get around to do what the firmware does not allow for: you are still limited by what the drive chipset can and cannot do.
Also keep in mind that going so low-level in accuracy yields no gains once you cure yourself of the stupid fucking OCD that console game pirates have, like bitching about 2 byte missing from the end of the disc and such.
Everyone else has already said it, but in summary: Just use Taiyo Yuden or Verbatim Data Life Plus discs burned at least at half-speed or higher (max as you can go might be best with modern drives, but it depends on your drive; I wouldn't go slower than half the disc's rated speed).
If you do that, everything should be fine.
Now that we're talking burning games, has anyone succesfully burned Dreamcast .cdi's on (insert interjection here) Linux?
All I can find are some dodgy scripts that try to convert the format to several files and burn them with cdrdao but that inevitable don't work.
Why is the .cdi format so popular with DC releases, anyway? Why can't it use .bin/.cue like everthing else?
>>2883154
Dreamcast games don't come in bin/cue because bin/cue is an awful format that can't handle multisession, which is necessary for selfboot titles.
You can still rip DC games in bin/cue, just make sure you have the utopia boot disc somewhere.
>>2883164
My question is then why is there no software on linux that can handle .cdi or other better format?
>>2883172
Because Linux is meant for running servers, not for burning videogames. Wanting to burn games with complex copy protection on Linux is like wanting to do IRC chat on a Sega Saturn.
>>2883178
>IRC chat on Sega Saturn
that would be really cool actually...
Also I use my HTPC for burning video games most of the time which runs Linux, so there's that. I only boot up my Wintendo to play games.
>>2883179
>that would be really cool actually...
You can actually do it since the netlink browser disc had a client, but why on earth would you want to?
>>2883183
Because everything must have an IRC client, practicality be damned?
I'll convey what I've learned from burning games for my modded PS1:
The quality of media matters. I'm not sure why, but it does. I've tried burning dozens of cheap CD-Rs with the proper settings, and they always produce issues such as stuttering FMVs or lock-ups. Brand-name discs like Taiyo Yuden don't, unless the game rip itself is bad.
You have to burn at the lowest settings. Discs are prone to "wobble," which can result in inaccurate information being written to the disc due to the drive moving so quickly. At least, I think that's why data corruption occurs. Empirical evidence has shown that higher burn speeds = corrupt discs occur more frequently.
The quality of the rip is the most important factor, and unfortunately, a vast majority of people simply do not know how to rip a game disc accurately. Most every rip you find at emuparadise or isozone will have mismatched CRCs all over the place. So even if you burn the disc using the proper settings, you're going to have stuttering FMVs, missing data / textures and general lock-ups.
With that last bit of information in mind, I frankly haven't found it very convenient to pirate for optical media-based consoles. 9/10 times, there just isn't an accurate rip available anywhere online, and I'm wasting money on expensive media that end up having to trash.
Games that include FMVs and Redbook (CD) audio are the most prone to producing inaccurate rips. Unless the person rips them under the most paranoid settings and with some damn good software, there will be mismatched CRCs. Try hunting down a playable copy of Tomb Raider 1. Even some emulators are going to shit themselves when the game tries to load its mismatched audio rips.
>>2883232
From my own tests with Taiyo Yuden media and drives with error correction data reporting, burning at 1/2 maximum speed gives best results. Excessively slow burn speed is worse than fast.
>>2878987
>For speed, pick the middle of what the drive can do. Too low speeds will make the burner think that they are burning an older media, which had different chemical composition, and required different laser power, which aren't suitable for modern discs
I've been burning games for years and I never heard of this before. Is this true? I always burned my games at the lowest possible speed my drive could muster.
>>2883337
Any advice telling you to burn at slowest speed is a leftover from the late 90s, when it did make a difference. CD tech is much different today.
Easy to test though: burn the same disc three times (preferably one that has 600+mb data), once at the lowest possible, once at the highest possible, and once at the middle speed your drive can do. Then scan each disc for C1 errors, and whichever has less, is the better burn.
And remember that whatever results you get is only specific for that drive + that type of disc. Different drive and different CDR might get different results.
>>2883178
>feeling like an ass when IRC was actually what was used for network game setup
I never said it wasn't available for it.
Just that isn't what the console was meant to do - it was just expanded to have a chance at doing that thing, but it didn't excel at it (try chatting on irc without a keyboard for example).
Same way how Linux can burn discs or play games, but it isn't great at either.
>>2883337
I usually just roll at like 16-32x.
My drive is retarded, so 32x is closer to 28x according to image burn.
But, yeah, middle ground is the safe bet.
For DVD consolesnot retroI usually do max speed since that seems to give the best burns with Taiyo Yuden/Verbatim DVD-R's.
Just don't ever force your drive or your media to burn at speeds neither supports.
I went to redump, and there are different things to download. SHA1, MD5, SFV, and cuesheet. Which one am I supposed to download and burn?
I just bought a 50 DVD pack but didn't notice they are inkjet printable. I've tried burning an ISO on two different DVDs already and they are unreadable on console, PC and anything else.
Did I just waste my money?
>>2884902
Actually it's not that but the fact that they're cheap chinese shit DVDs which can't even handle a 4x burn; serves me right for being a cheapskate
>>2884616
None. Redump is for verifying dumps, as are like twenty other sites.
You download your dumps from other locations to burn after verifying your hashsums at redump.
>>2884902
>>2885043
Give them a shot at burning them at half their rated speed or higher since that seems to give better results for most media to me. That said, yeah, get some Taiyo Yuden's or Verbatim Data Life Plus. I use to order my shit from rima.com, but I don't even know if they're still legit or not. I bought like 200 CD-Rs and DVD-Rs from there years ago and haven't needed to rebuy since then.
>>2877897
>Are CD-Rs more susceptible to disc-rot than pressed discs?
Apparently yes, at least for cheaper discs.
I've experienced old CMC magnetics discs developing unrecoverable errors after just a few years. Look into what actual manufacturers the discs are sourced from, though there days, there probably isn't the broad shuffle that there used to be.
>>2883696
>not having a saturn keyboard
It's like you're not even trying kid
>>2885703
>there probably isn't the broad shuffle that there used to be.
No, not really.
The majority of discs, including your regular Verbatim, are all CMC. Outside of that, you have the AZO dye and Taiyo Yuden's own dye, and that's pretty much it for most general consumer burnable media.
>>2886069
Let me add, that's not to say others don't exist, but pretty much every CD you buy from a general store will probably be CMC.
>>2877897
Only experience I have with this is with PSX
>What settings and configuration to adjust for this program?
Had to brun at 4x always, otherwise my PSX wouldn't read it.
>What is the best brand of CD-Rs to use?
For some reason my PSX refused to read Pelikan CDs.
>>2877897
OP I found that the psx's I get from goodwills that are modded have skippy/fuck lasers. It's no big deal really though as a psx laser is only 14$ on ebay and easy to fix. I grab a couple of spares to last me 40 years
>>2879060
yeah but do any of those programs support muh freedoms? Do they work on GNU/LINUX?
>>2889034
Are you asking if you can burn on Linux?
Because if you want a GUI program for burning, K3B is probably your best bet.
>>2889034
They don't, but that's okay, since Saturn games don't support ur freedoms either, they are all closed source proprietary code. You wouldn't gain anything by copying them.
>>2877897
>It is rumored that playing burned games will cause the disc drive to wear out and become inoperable.
>Is this really true?
>>2877898
>What speed should CD-Rs be burned at?
Imo it's made up to scare people. Sony has been spreading these rumour ever since psx in like 1996. I've worn out 1 console since then and bought 3 pretty cheap. Don't worry about it, the things that break are not because of burned discs.
And no you don't need to calibrate, just make sure you use good CD-Rs.
Blue or silver Verbatim or TDK seems to work best. Burn at full speed. They used to say it should be burned at 2x or 1x but in my experience that increases the risk of failing the burn, CD burners are not made to burn at slow speeds today.
>>2889034
No, they work on Linux
>>2878201
you need to adjust the potentiometer, my DC did the same thing, it was really picky.
now it plays all the copies that didn't work before
