So I had a question in the tech thread that died. My Saturn's memory resets every start up. New batteries didn't work. Tore Saturn apart. This is what I found. It appears that little cylinder has leaked. Anyone know how to clean/fix this?
Think that's an oscillator. Probably just glue or something.
Is this the new tech thread? I have a question too. I recently hooked up a 32x which hasn't been used in well over a decade and it turns on and runs games but the color is off (everything has a blue tint) and the video seems blurry as well as the sound being muffled. There is also a high pitched squeal coming from the unit itself which leads me to thing that it may be failed or failing capacitors.
Additionally I am using the aftermarket crossover cable which is supposed to provide power to the 32x but I have to use the ac adapter to get it to work. I am running this on a model 1 Genesis with a model 2 Sega CD attached and am getting my audio out of the Genesis headphone jack. Everything works perfectly without the 32x.
So should I go ahead and order some caps for it or is there anything else I should check first?
>>3231778
Why not open it up and check if they're leaking?>>3231731
If it's a cap it just needs replacing, very easy to do. If it's an crystal like the other guy said it shouldn't be a problem to replace either. Look for the service manual online and find the part of there is no writing on the cylinder
>>3231778
I did open it up and cleaned it out as well as reseat and clean the ribbon cables. I did not notice any of them leaking.
>>3231731
Shouldn't have bought a Model 2.
>>3232085
That's a model 1 on the picture. Model 2s didn't have the blue switch.
>>3231778
Just because you don't see leaking doesn't mean one isn't bad or going bad. I recapped my 32x because the video had a wobble to it and all of the caps appeared fine. Fixed it right up.
>>3232230
>>3231778
ok, I was messing with it some more and the blue discoloration was caused by the av cable. I'm thinking the port for it was dirty after not being used for so long.
I am also seeing a bit of "wobble" on DC Racers though Doom and Star Wars seem to work ok.
Now my main issue is the audio. I am getting some high pitched feedback from the setup that was not present at all before I added the 32x (even Sega CD boot screen has the high pitched squeal now) and I am still hearing the squeal from the unit itself. I may try replacing the caps and see if that helps.
>>3231731
The cylinder is a crystal, they don't leak. That's glue. Less than on most. Check the battery holder and make sure it's all good. Check to make sure it's supplying power to the RAM. Check to make sure the part of the RAM not visible in the pic doesn't have a bug bridging some pins or something.
>>3232303
Seconding checking the holder. I had one that wouldn't work. Aside from having some corrosion on the contacts, they also needed to be bent up a little to make better contact with the battery.
>>3232493
>Not sure why they bukkake'd the glue all over like that.
So it doesn't flip around during transit and end up accidentally broken. Yes, it does happen, I had soldered cables break off after international shipping.
>>3232493
Drakons dad is Sega.
Easiest way to check is put a battery in and then check for voltage on the chip. If it's not there then work back until you find where the break is.
>>3231731
Get a simple multimeter and check continuity on the battery holder prongs on the underside with a battery in. That'll tell you if it's making contact properly. Usually the solder joints to the holder don't break cuz they're so g'damn big and take more solder in the first place. It doesn't look like anything is wrong with yours from the pic though. Next guess would be the SRAM that the battery keeps alive. Not sure if that's a cap somewhere or like a flash chip.
>>3232493
>Not sure why they bukkake'd the glue all over like that.
Same reason they pot inductors. They have a bit of heft to them and they vibrate during operation.
OP here. So here is something I didn't notice before on the power supply board. Is this an issue?
>>3234580
I couldn't find anything wrong, so I assume you're talking about the grey shit next to the black and white electrolytic capacitor. It looks like epoxy/glue and not a leaking capacitor. Also, I can't see the value on that cap, but it looks pretty big. You may need to bridge/short those out before you poke around unless you want to get a nasty shock. I don't know if it has a series resistor to drain it. Alternatively don't touch around it on the bottom of the board
>>3233454
That crystal weighs next to nothing. It's more because the awkward dimensions and spindly leads. It's really a shit package and I despise cunts who use it unless the slight weight and size advantage over hc49s actually makes a difference in the project.
