Customs General
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You are currently reading a thread in /toy/ - Toys
You are currently reading a thread in /toy/ - Toys
Post your custom projects here; mods, fixes, repaints, dios, effects parts, accessories, 3D printed stuff, or whatever else you're working on.
Offer tips and advice, ask for help, post tutorials/guides, and have fun!
Here's some tips from the previous threads:
Beginners: practice on cheap figures first.
For sculpting on figures: use 2-part epoxy putty like Aves apoxie or fixit.
For tools: try a basic carving/sculpting set like the kind arts & crafts stores have, and calipers for symmetry.
Dental tools have also been said to work well.
Also, using a Dremel is recommended. Minimites (the small $20-25 ones) are fine for starting out, but the battery life is poor. Upgrade to a corded
one only if you want to get deeper into customizing. They are useful for stuff outside of the hobby though, so it's a good investment regardless.
For paints: use acrylics. Paint in multiple, thin coats. Brands like Vallejo/P3/Citadel are recommended, because of pigment quality.
Use a sealer when finished to protect your work. There are matte varieties and sealers that give a glossy look. As with painting, use multiple thin coats.
A flex shaft attachment on a Dremel is a godsend and relatively inexpensive. The grinding shield is also pretty useful, but you can improvise one using a
cut open soda bottle.
Are there any ships that do custom work?
>>5720503
???
>>5720519
>ships
Meant shops. Custom shops for figures.
>>5720529
Shop is a pretty generous term, most customizers work alone out of their house. Like, you don't need a lot of space to do it. What are you looking to get done?
>>5720487
Cool, my custom made it on the thread banner two threads in a row!
Okay. Reading the tips dremels but don't these things work just as well on plastic?
The prices for dremels on my country are insane.
>>5720606
But anon, that's not a dremel. You've confused me.
>>5720606
Dremel isn't just a drill it's also a sander, grinder, buffer, etc.
>>5720606
Buy a WEN rotary tool. They're actually better than Dremels.
>>5720624
Any idea how much would be the shipping for those outside of America?
15 dollars for all of that sounds too good.
>>5720627
No idea.
Anyone know of any figures with a letterman's jacket?
>>5720782
DC Collectibles is making one for their Suicide Squad line. Maybe Mattel is, too?
>>5720787
Oh cool, thanks!
Saw one of these in the last thread and I had the body so I decided to make my own
>>5720842
Motuc Evil Dead sounds like a fun franchise.
>start planning customs
>"heh, this doesn't seem that hard and tamiya putty is kinda cheap"
>can't sculpt well but shitloads of fleamarkets near me
>"kitbashing is for babbies, even frenzyrumble does it"
>have to search and take measure of everything to make sure parts scale before ordering figures
>can't find anything useful
>"let's try a repaint while I wait for Shapeways to do my job for me"
>paint is expensive here
>primer has to be ordered
>adhesion promoter is not that familiar a concept to modellers around here
>need an airbrush
>need a compressor
>need a room to paint, which i don't have
>winter begins
>hqdefault
Someone post more pics of the bottom right
>>5724643
>>adhesion promoter is not that familiar a concept to modellers around here
Get it from an automotive store.
>>5724684
Does it really work the same?
>>5724687
Not him but I've never heard of adhesion promoter that wasn't just made for automotive purposes. It's pretty much just primer, but usually with solvent to soften the plastic's surface and flex agent.
>>5724847
>smaller bottles
Obviously I meant to say cans
>>5724901
It'd be nice if it came in bottles. Adhesion promoters now tend to have flex agent which you can use to paint flexible parts like ammo belts and what not
>>5720544
I'd like some Power Rangers in Space figures, due to their rarity. I just can't figure out how to make them.
What do toy manufacturers use to paint those flexible rubber pieces?
>>5720606
Dont buy Dremel branded. Fuck I live in Canada got a rotary tool with a full kit for $25. Only issue is it doesnt have as good of a speed control as a real dremel.
>>5725857
Super toxic paints that would push the VOC levels well past what could be sold in the west. The reason these things are made in third world shit holes is because human life is cheap there and as such the chemicals allowed in industry are wildly toxic during manufacturing (but cure to acceptable levels of toxicity).
Sci-fi prop maker forums have good tips on painting rubber surfaces, but you'll need an airbrush as a basic requirement.
Anyone got any general methods on bolstering the quality of bootleg Snake figma's?
>>5726078
Swap out the bootleg body with the real figma body. Then replace the head with the real one, too.
>>5726083
That's pretty hard to do, bruv.
>>5725879
I'll look into that.
Big stores here only have Dremel and B&D so that might explain the insane prices.
>>5725978
>Sci-fi prop maker forums have good tips on painting rubber surfaces, but you'll need an airbrush as a basic requirement.
It's all for latex
>>5724661
>>5724661
another
>>5724661
And diorama
>>5726550
Wow, that's really good. How did you make it?
>>5726491
Yes, your detective skills are increasing with each post. The principles for creating flex-capable acrylic remain the same.
>>5726624
The thing is that flexible paints don't have much bite to them so you have to use an adhesion promoter. I used to work at a shop that did prop rubber and foam rubber weapons for film and tv and we just painted that shit with PAX and hoped it made it through a day of filming. If it didn't we had 4 or 5 more. If all else failed we stripped them and painted them all over again or made a brand new one.
>>5726803
What adhesion promoter did you use?
>>5727673
Bulldog, but really I don't think I have a preference that's just what I have access to easily. DupliColor's seems about the same. DupliColor's smells nastier to me and really fucking lingers so I try to avoid it, your mileage may vary.
>>5727689
Even with adhesion promoter does the paint tend to flake?
>>5727705
Depends on what you're putting it on and how heavy the coat of paint is. Gonna need some more info to answer that question.
>>5727717
Rubber belts and metal wire for plamo, It's just going to be a light coat.
>>5727727
Still going to need you to be more specific. IDK what kind of rubber it is, and I've never used adhesion promoter on metal. What kind of paint were you going to use?
>>5727727
A light coat is going to hold best, but depending on the kind of paint and the kind of plastic you're painting it still might not hold at all. Really my best advice is to fuck around until you find something that works, and if you can't then go with whatever came close enough.
>>5727739
idk what it is either :\
It's whatever Bandai uses for flexible belts and pipes on gunpla.
I have acrylics and lacquers so I'll try whichever works.
>>5727746
Doesn't bandai usually list what stuff's made of in the instructions? It's been a while since I did gunpla but I seem to recall everything that was ABS being labeled and swear other stuff was too.
>>5727756
They do for PS and ABS but the belt is in Japanese
>>5727761
The belt is the F runner, yeah? Lemme see if I can find someone who can translate.
>>5727767
Yes thanks
>>5726597
I'm not the maker, it's from someone on 2chan. But it's made from found branches and twigs, real and fake foliage, and other scenery products for the base.
Check out miniature "scenery" or "terrain" tutorials on youtube.
How well could one paint over clear plastic?
Since pic related is cheaper than the regular version I would like to buy it and just paint over it.
>>5728533
Just buy the regular release and save yourself the hassle.
Would it be too difficult to make those pressure swivels kind of joints used on some figures from scratch?
You know, kind of like what's used for Combiner Wars figures' wrists but without the pseudo-ratchets.
>>5728701
Uh, post a pic? Difficulty really depends on your skill level, man.
>>5728701
Few if any of the modders/customizers here know about Transformers, you gotta post pics dude. Likely if you can make a mold of the joints you'd be able to cast them in resin, depending on how simple in design they are. If they have tight tolerances or work in a complex fashion or sustain a lot of added stress you may not be able to scratch build one that would have the stable properties of commercial plastics.
I'm really wanting to repaint some of my Monster High dolls, but I really can't afford $50 for one can of Mr. Super Clear Flat off eBay.
Can anyone recommend a good matte sealant other than MSC, that can be found at like, Michael's or Joann?
>>5728848
What's wrong with Tamiya's
https://www.amazon.com/TAMIYA-TS-80-Clear-Spray-Laquer/dp/B000ZVO3YS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465711316&sr=8-1&keywords=tamiya+flat+clear+spray
>>5728858
shit thanks man!
every other Monster High repainter I know swears by MSC and shit talks everything else so I needed a different opinion.
>>5728874
Every Monster High repainter you know is probably a very talented woman who only repaints dolls and got into customizing to repaint Monster High or dolfie faceups and doesn't spend a lot of time fucking around with different products / just does with the tutorial tells them. Ugh, sorry for the casual sexism there.
>>5728858
MSC is generally considered among the best flats.
I've heard Alclad matte is good too but I've never used it because it's actually an enamel. I have a bottle sitting somewhere though.
>>5728765
>>5728846
Okay. It looks kinda like this.
The connection is made when the small pegs on the hand piece slides into the round slots on the forearm. There's a guide carved in so the hand pieces can slide in without putting too much pressure on the forearm.
>>5729934
Uh IDK man, how many people here do you see making their own joints? Like 3 or 4 people ever. Try making one and if it works report back.
>>5729934
I'll be honest: Transformers are such visual clusterfucks that even with your picture and very thorough explanation, I am only capable of understanding without any uncertainty where the hand is and that it has a toothed base through which it apparently swivels. They're an absolute mess as far as toy engineering goes, so the only advice I can give to you is creating a mold of master parts using what's on your current figure and using casts as starting bases to mod off of.
Tried a Justice Lord Superman using a BvS figure for my first custom.
Might try again and better with a multiverse when they get moved off the shelf and discounted.
What's a good way to darken white skin color to like a light brown?
Thin layer of paint or what
>>5730076
Christ, the Justice Lord costumes were stupid. It's like Supes killed Luthor and everyone was immediately like, "WELP WE'RE EVIL NOW, TIME TO CHANGE INTO COMPLETELY NEW COSTUMES."
Would have been so much better if the costumes were just slightly more militaristic or harder-edged versions of their original costumes. Batman wearing Nolan-style segmented kevlar, WW wearing full Amazonian battle armor, Supes wearing a simplified suit in all muted colors (like midnight blue and maroon, no yellow), maybe with gloves. That would have been fucking awesome.
![20160611_004018[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/mL8Kw6F.jpg "20160611_004018[1].jpg")
>>5731093
Pic related?
>>5731114
I really wanna know the sauce of that.
Finally started painting this, if I'm not completely bored with it when I'm done I'll get some higher quality pics. Still need to do a template for the star because there's no way I'm free handing that. Recast all the flesh tones with a stronger pigment, really liking how they look on this revision. Finally got some magnets to get the face swap working, but I haven't done any alternate faces so right now it's kinda pointless huh? IDK if I've said it yet but thanks for including me in the OP.
>>5731741
Tokyo Gore Police.
>>5731976
Print the star out on waterslide decal paper
Looking through old /toy/ pics, posting a favorite custom of mine. I think it was done by Kenjitron.
>>5732110
Would a yellow star printed on water slide paper with my crummy home inkjet printer even show that well over the red plastic?
If you've done your own water slides before please post some pics, would love to see them.
I'm looking for something that's like epoxy clay, but much less messy while still being moldable and adhesive. Any recommendations?
>>5732243
Wait, what exactly do you find messy about epoxy clay?
>>5732172
or go to a graphics shop for vinyl decals that are put on cars and get some stars printed out.
>>5732298
When using water to prevent it from adhering to my fingers and getting sloppy, it ends up running over everywhere and there's just a coat of exopy/water mix getting everywhere and it's just a hassle.
>>5732304
So you want something adhesive, but that won't adhere to you?
>>5732304
There's no such thing, just deal with it. All epoxies are messy and hard putties like epoxy putty are among the least messy and likewise among the least messy putties in general because most epoxy putties are made for sculpting, not filling. You can try working with it 1 to 2 hours after it has been applied, but it won't be nearly as adhesive.
>>5732307
Okay, here. I'll ask a smarter question instead of tripping over myself. Is there a less gummy epoxy clay than milliput brand? It's the gummyness of it while working with it that is a pain in the ass. And the water trick just leads to a bigger mess.
>>5732317
Kneadatite/greenstuff is less sticky at first, but it's also harder in general so it's not really ideal for sculpting large things, and is really better for detail work.
>>5732323
I'm planning on sculpting staples onto a figure so this would be ideal. Thank you.
>>5732323
The problem with Green Stuff (from what I've experienced anyway) is it's not great at adhering to surfaces.
>>5732329
That may be a problem. How is it with typical abs plastic?
>>5732323
Greenstuff is definitely not good for detail work, at least over milliput. To see, try sanding it into a sharp edge. You can do it with milliput easily, good luck with greenstuff. It's tougher, it's slightly softer, but it holds detail worse.
Milliput, like apoxie and magicsculpt, cure more rigidly and harder and have finer grain.
>>5732331
>>5732332
From what I've encountered Green Stuff tends to adhere somewhat successfully at first, however after 20-30 minutes of working time it loses it's stick.
This is also true, Green stuff is a nightmare to sand.
>>5732336
That's pretty much what I've had to do whenever I've worked with it, even after setting parts I've sculpted will just fall off and need gluing back on.
>>5732332
I've personally never had any problems sanding/filing greenstuff, but with this info I guess with greenstuff ymmv then.
You cant get some for less than $5 though so he may as well buy some and mess around with it.
>>5732341
you CAN* get some etc etc
>>5732304
Don't drench your hands in water, just wash them when you're done.
Are there revoltech or figma joints small enough for a statueshit like this to give articulation?
What can I use to wipe off excess Future Pledges? It kind of bleeds out and ruin the matte finish of my figure
Help! I got Space Ghost and Moltar used on eBay and im looking to start painting where it came off.
Where do I start? I know ill need to thin my paints once i start, and my sister has some smaller paintbrushes I know I can use.
How do I find paint to match the colors already on the figure?
Planned this custom ages ago and life has made it so that I'm now just starting.
>>5732400
Do you have the head of Nick Nitro?
>>5732408
If they had made a 12 Nick I could botch, I would.
>"Cannon Fodder Gwendy reporting for duty, sir!"
So an update on Phaia/Curvy/Client's OC.
Made a basic body plan to get an idea what a thick waifu figure can be like with a good range of articulation to aid in the CAD designs for Shapeways. Forgive the horrid paintjob on the hair, it was just to get a rough idea of what Phaia's hair would be like. The shoulder joints are double-ended ball pegs with Plastic Weld epoxy molded around it (while lubed so it wouldn't adhere) with the same for the torso articulation. Final version will employ either figma type designs (with full bicep swivel) or might employ the shoulder swivel design Polynian and Revo's use for their shoulders. Hip joint (internal) was a test-print of Curvy's hip piece (essentially a scale-up version of the Figma hips but with larger ball-ends connecting to the thighs. Hips/ass is molded sugru with a vaginal slit crudely cut into the crotch (not designed to be penetrated for coitus pics...yet). The rest of the joints are Hobby Base Ball Slim save the wrists (prototype 4.9mm joints Loli/Shota protomorph will primarily use), hands are Milliput yellow-gray with red+white pigment (casted copies of Fraulein Rei Ayanami figure), and the body and hair are all molded Plastic Weld Epoxy putty.
>>5732550
>>Healthy at Every Size!
But seriously, working out the body articulation for this has been quite challenging but fun. If the tits were a bit smaller my Phaia's physique might pass for a Neanderthal waifu figure, lol. On that note, there's seriously a lack of early hominin figures with articulation.
Obviously Curvy and client-anon's Ceri will have longer, sexier legs.
>>5732556
Obligatory. Though I might be wrong the exact pose. The slit on the left above her ass was a mold imperfection with the sugru.
>>5732563
Lewd.
>>5732566
Lewd.
>>5732568
Bonus round! Whipped up some pigmented epoxy castings of nipples. The pink ones on the left are relaxed/un-aroused while the reddish on the right are Phaia's erect, puffy areola nipples.
Still need some sanding and trimming.
>>5731976
Shit man that's super good looking. Were his shoulders a little lower, it'd be perfect.
>>5732578
'Nuther udder shot.
>>5732579
>Were his shoulders a little lower, it'd be perfect.
Really? His shoulders regularly go up to his ears.
The child has no neck.
Aside from leaving a sticky residue, is electrical tape adhesive bad for plastic? I'm using it to wrap around a figure's arm and idk if there's a consequence.
>>5733172
You should be fine. I used to wrap it around Terminator toys to attach weapons to their arms, found some of those a few years back and they were still in great condition other than being kinda sticky. We're talking T2 toys, so that tape's been on there 20 years or more.
>>5732550
So the current crotch is sugru (silicone) but that's just a place holder to help figure out the cad right? What's the finished crotch piece going to be?
>>5732550
>>5732556
>>5732563
>>5732566
>>5732568
Looking great so far, boss!
Slightly related question, but is there a way to make a figure look like it's wearing latex fabric and look decent? Both skin-tight aspects and voluminous aspects. (Not quite related to this order, but possibly related to a potential future order.)
>>5733329
Wouldn't you just sculpt in some seams/wrinkles and then paint it with a smooth high gloss finish?
>>5733372
I don't know, it's why I asked.
All I kinda know is that in 28mm/heroic miniatures that gloss coat doesn't do much for them.
>>5733393
Yeah, you try to avoid gloss on minis because they are so tiny it obscures the details, but if it's glossy make it glossy.
can someone help me out here? How do i match paint colors?
>>5733534
aye caramba
What about this cape? Its made from some sort of rubbery material
>>5733600
I have that Space Ghost figure, the cape isn't painted, what happened is that some of the paint from the figure is rubbing off on it. See if you can scrub it off with a sponge and some dish soap, if not try rubbing alcohol.
>>5733269
All parts will be made of WSF (Shapeways' white Nylon) other than face-sculpts (made in their 3D printed acrylic for details), with the hips/ass made thin to allow some flexibility. WSF at a mere 0.7mm-1mm thick can be rather flexible.
How would one go about making a mold for silicone? I want to make a silicone casting of an old JP Raptor body and tail with bendy wire using silicone mold-making putty.
What material should the mold for the silicone be made of?
Would heat-warping plastic sheets (like transparency sheets but a tad thicker) around the body and tail work?
>>5733813
Rule of thumb is basically this: If your material is rubbery use a rigid mold, if your material is rigid use a rubber mold.
I cast silicone in epoxy, fiberglass, or stone molds. Stone molds aren't ideal but it's your easiest and cheapest option. So plaster of paris would work, or a dental stone. I do mine in Ultracal but you probably don't want to go out of your way to buy a 50lb bag of that shit to make a single raptor.
The major drawback here is that you've got to be really careful about undercuts or else you'll never get the original figure out of the mold, working in your favor is that this is a toy that already has pretty obvious mold lines so when you divide it up you know where to do it.
It should go without saying but you'll need to coat it in some kind of mold release to help prevent it from getting stuck to the mold material (plaster or whatever), what I usually do is a few light coats of crystal clear, glossy not matte. To get rid of the gloss I hit it with a layer of dulling spray, which is like a wax, it will rub off in your hands even when it's dry so try not to handle it. If you want something to remain glossy of course the dulling spray isn't needed. I don't like matte crystal clear because it can screw up the texture of the piece so that's why gloss + dulling spray. Hopefully you don't mind spraying a 20+ year old raptor with crystal clear.
>Would heat-warping plastic sheets (like transparency sheets but a tad thicker) around the body and tail work?
No. It probably won't.
Progress/mockup of the torso.
>>5733960
Here's the actual battery and "microchip" I'm planning to strap onto her once she's painted. It's just an aluminum dummy I bought off eBay so there won't be any worry of leaking battery acid in the future.
>>5733867
What would you use if you were making a mold intended to cast using hard material but the piece you're replicating is soft?
I've been wanting to make epoxy replicas of ROTF Bludgeon's weapons and FE Optimus' sword and smokestacks to replace them due to them being made of shitty soft plastic.
Star Wars Black Series and Marvel Legends figures are both made by Hasbro, and are the same scale.
Does anyone know if their heads are easily swappable and interchangeable? (Without modding, but just by popping them on/off.)
>>5734102
Silicone, it'll be fine, I dunno how rubbery the stacks are but I know bludgeon's sword is solid enough. If it's really rubbery and warped or I think it will warp from the weight of mold material there's a few different things I might do, the first thing that comes to mind is make a trash mold and then cast a clay or wax copy, if clay I would freeze it before I took it out of the mold, and do any kind of correction I need to that, from there making the good silicone mold on the fixed part.
>>5734102
I should add that the rule of thumb I posted was for the material you're casting, not the material of the original piece.
>>5734120
There is no standard peg size that hasbro uses for heads. SW heads can't always be swapped with other SW heads, nor ML with other ML. In other words, typical Hasbro.
>>5720487
Alright I'm gonna need to see more pics of that italian spiderman.
Alright guys lay into me.
Here is my Dunmer Link
what could I have done better?
>>5734786
Thinned your paints. Bought this.
>>5734786
I think a lighter gray would have been better, and darkening the clothing (you did darken it, right?) wasn't necessary.
>>5733329
what if you printed the body in an elastic filament like ninjaflex or remolded it in silicon?
>>5735191
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmYSTObayoY
>>5735055
Original price was low since PapiAnon was going to R&D anyway and needed a good excuse to do so, client intends on tipping to be more fair.
>>5735177
The print-resolution would have to be insanely high, since a great appeal to latex is its super smooth texture and high sheen. There's also the issue of painting the material, and painting flexible material always has its difficulties.
>>5735191
He's obviously making a modded war-Barbie Doll like those seen in the movie Small Soldiers, as seen here: >>5732417
>>5735177
You guys are making a mountain out of a molehill. High gloss finish should suffice.
>>5735258
nerve commissioned a figure before. is "low" 100 bucks? 7 hundred?
Made a small custom on PAK Bayo, she fell from my shelf and broke her ankle. Replaced both ankles with Revo joints to support her better because the original PAK ankle joints were too loose to support her. While drilling and making room for her ankle joints I realized she's so close to being 7in figure. I know Bayo supposed to have long legs but her PAK figure proportions are atrocious. Ends up cutting her thighs too and replaced the famously ugly PAK knee joints with more Revo joints.
She's now a passable 7in figure and can be posed next to NECA Dante and Hayabusa, perfecting my stylish action game trinity
>>5735878
Not bad, anon.
Still not perfectly happy with her knees though, single Revo joint although it is more stable does limit her range. Now 90 degrees is the best she could do and it doesn't look that much better than PAK peanut double jointed knees.
Any suggestions are welcome, bigger revo joints maybe? I don't know how else can you achieve more range. I tinkered with Figma disc knees and it was too loose to support her weight
Close up of the knee joint, doesn't look as bad from the front, but it is still segmented
>>5735890
If you feel confident, and have the tools, you can dig out grooves in the back of her thigh and calf to get more of a bend in her legs.
Also are you using the largest revo joint?
>>5735926
>If you feel confident, and have the tools, you can dig out grooves in the back of her thigh and calf to get more of a bend in her legs
Nah. There's only so much peg length I could work with. Reaming out the calf and backside of her thigh wouldn't help because the Revo peg would just fall out
>Also are you using the largest revo joint?
2nd largest that I have. Using the largest I couldn't fit it on her kneecap and had to break the sculpt even more, not to mention propelling her height back to 8.5" scale figure
>>5735816
I think papianon was charging that guy like $50 or something, which is absurdly low. The going rate for that much work is at least a few hundred.
>>5735991
interesting. what do you consider the best place to commiss a figure?
Looking to try my hand at resin recasting. Any favorite brands of silicone and resin here? What's a good pigment - especially flesh colored? Any general tips or /toy/ approved tutorials?
>>5736183
1. Smooth-On
2. Smooth-On So-Strong pigments
3. Smooth-On's video guides
>>5736198
Well that makes things easy.
>>5736169
IDK, sorry, I don't commission people I make stuff for myself. What were you looking to have made and what's your budget? I'm sure someone here could hook you up or knows someone.
>>5736222
Uhh, around 200 bucks. Right now thinking of a musclegirl figure with decent articulation around 6-7 inches tall
>>5731976
Print a star at the size you want. Cut it out with an exacto or utility knife. Wrap the surface in paint tape. Tape or glue the star onto the tape-covered surface. Adjust as you please until it's roughly where you want it. Use an exacto or utility knife to cut the star and the tape under it off. You now have a masked off star. Paint the clear area, let it dry, remove tape.
>>5734120
Some of them are, most of them aren't. Trial and error is your best bet.
>>5733329
Latex paint.
>>5736251
It depends on what you want. There's a large difference between a customized/modded figure and a custom figure.
What I did was simply post here what I wanted to order with reference included, then got lucky when someone picked up the order.
There are many kinds of musclegirl and while 6-7 inches is probable, the scale is important too. (for example, 1:12 scale is about what figma uses for the most part, or and inch=1 foot in the character's normal height)
>>5736284
Latex paint is going to peel off of anything that isn't latex and it won't have the sheen that you're thinking it would.
>>5735316
but ninjaflex would make squishy boobs
has anyone ever used glow in the dark paint for their customs? I bought some a while back from Glomania and it's terrible. it glows fine, but it's terrible paint. does anyone know of a good brand I could look into?
>>5736519
Yeah and it would look like shit.
>>5736251
You're the guy from the muscle girl thread, yeah?
That's under what I would charge for a completely custom figure but I'm somewhat interested in hearing what you're looking to have done. This is the StevenAnon btw, if you want to contact me outside of /toy/ hit me up on my tumblr: hwhall.tumblr.com (any time I've posted my email address here I get spammed with nonsense) I've got some pics of my other work on there but it's not the best portfolio.
>>5736572
>but it's not the best portfolio
By which I mean there's not a whole lot lot of my work on there, worded that poorly didn't I?
>>5732362
Ammonia, or an ammonia-based cleaning product such as Windex.
I did some Dry brushing on the BvS nightmare Bam ham. As well as making his eyes look smaller.
>>5736866
>>5736394
What is the difference, exactly?
I was thinking proportioned like pic related, 1:12 scale of a presumably 6-7 foot amazon
>>5732550
>>5732556
>>5732563
>>5732566
>>5732568
Damn nice work Papo. Especially on the range of articulation given how thick her limbs are. Are you casting a mold out of this?
>>5735890
>>5735903
Pretty cool anon. I'm sad we never got a Bayonetta 2 figure. I adored her with short hair and fuller lips.
>>5736866
>>5736875
Looks pretty good to me. Mattel can do alright sculpts but their lack of paint and articulation kills it for me.
So, what do you guys do with your spare parts?
I feel kind of uncomfortable with loose heads desu.
>>5737549
make some kind of head-monster. alternatively, you could use them as like, decorations for a headhunter figure. hanging from his belt or some shit.
Can we have a commissions general? if not, who all here is willing to do comissions? I am willing to pay $$$
>>5737884
>liking a character or concept enough to pay exorbitant prices
what are you gay?
>>5737896
no, I only pop a stiffy if someone's having an abortion within fifty yards
Hopefully someone here could help me. Just got Shf Agito burning form and his wrist peg snapped. I've gotten all the peg out of his socket, but now he's got one hand. Anyone here know a suitable replacement joint that would fit him? I tried another KR figure but his pegs were smaller. I really want to retain his articulation.
>>5738107
Everyone one of these has a stuck left wrist. At least in my sample of 2. I got one, it was stuck no matter what I did. Did an exchange and he's still like that. Now I just accept him as he is.
Working on a werewolf type character, base is one of those Batman V Superman Bat Creatures, which is the only figure I could find with digitigrade legs, are there any others?
>>5738389
Funko Legacy Ajani Goldmane, who is a lion but has a lot of useful articulation buried under all his armor.
>>5738124
like where?
>>5738389
Looks kinda like a furfag, why not just get pic related instead?
>>5738172
Eh, I had no idea about that. Well hopefully I can replace the joint and have him almost good as new.
Any general tips for resin casting? Just ordered a bunch of supplies, but all the videos I can find make it seem a bit TOO easy for how rarely I see anyone actually doing it outside of Japan/China considering how sought after a lot of stuff that could very easily be recasted is.
Went with >>5736198 suggestion of Smooth-on OOMOO mold and 300 resin, along with a couple pigments.
>>5735890
Why do you have a bottle of teriyaki on your desk
>>5738705
Any of the big toy forums.
>>5738714
which groups and/or users?
>>5739033
like what?
>>5737317
Thanks! I'm surprised that it worked out myself, lol. But then again, someone made a figma Pochaco at (I think) WonFest not too long ago, and let's not forget Croix-sempai and his Pochaco bodies he's doing. Further proof that a thick waifu-figure CAN be done.
And I'm only recasting Phaia's parts for replacement. Her parts have been sculpted, chopped, and resculpted in the trial-and-error and subsequently have grip issues with the hobby base pegs from basically being marbled epoxy.
The Curvy protomorph will be based on Phaia's dimensions and designs for my shop and thus be strictly 3D printed through Shapeways in WSF.
And no pics at the moment, but I'm still working on Loli/Shota. Got the loli chest section, upper arms, lower arm, hips (mind you it's a proportionally plump ass made for the Harpy/Papi figure), thighs, shins, feet (with toe-articulation similar to the new Figma Archetype's), and refined (but untested) 4.9mm joints for the tiny body all designed. Gonna use the 20% off coupon from Shapeways for WSF in the next day or two for it all.
And yeah, Shapeways has a 20% off coupon for all white dyed nylon (code: SFONSALE) prints that expires on the 18th.
>>5739134
Herp. White AND dyed nylon.
Alright guys, I'm slowly working on repainting a TFC Dinobot Sludge. Problem is, the gold paint is a pain in the ass to get off, even with high concentrated rubbing alcohol. Some of the plastic that I've stripped the paint off of looks almost stained. How can I fix this? Simple green? A peroxide paste?
>>5739492
It's paint and not vacuum metal right? Try soaking it in simple green over night, yeah.
>>5739503
Yeah, I don't think it's vac-metal. I'll pick up some simple green and try that, then, thanks.
Is there any reason to use rubbing alcohol on painted parts when I could soak em in something like that, or is there a drawback?
>>5738389
That blobby sculpt work. JUST
>>5739514
I prefer alcohol because it works faster, I ain't got no time for simple green. Sometimes I gotta soak it for like 2 or 3 days in simple green.
>>5739588
Calm down bruh he might just not have sanded it down yet.
>>5738967
>doing the "found the" thing
Kill yourself
>>5739640
Oh, that's good, cuz I just set the parts in an alcohol bath a few hours ago.
Before that I was dipping q-tips and cotton balls in 91% alcohol and tried rubbing the paint off. It was a pain in the ass and took forever...
Repainted the Caesar.
No more War paint
>>5738590
oh man I totally forgot that guy, damn if I had remembered him I could have saved SO much material on the feet.
Anon who shortened PAK Bayo here, just want to share some experience of making knee joint if anyone care and learn from my mistakes
After a lot of thinking I settled with using big Revo peg for a bend knee pose like pic related so at least the big ball joint cover the kneecap and settle with smaller size joint when the leg is at neutral like >>5735878 to cover the sculpt. It's kind of cheating using two different pegs, but works good enough for static poses.
What I should've done is put the peg like how I draw it on pic related, ON AN ANGLE so a maximum bend from the big revo joint would yield you almost ~150 degree knee bend. Currently the big revo peg is at maximum bend, but since the peg hole is up front and straight that's the maximum range I got.
Unfortunately redrilling the peg on an angle would require some resculpting around the knee because it would expose the kneecap even more and that's way beyond what I signed up for initially when doing this. A lot of Revo figures like Raiden, Venom Snake etc bypass this sculpting issue with having some kind of kneecap to hide the joint.
Overall, I'm content to have Dante Bayo and Ryu finally on the same shelf, and the knee joint doesn't look as bad anyway. ~100 degree angle bend there is good enough for most Bayo poses except maybe one or two and the kneecap doesn't look as bad as the notorious vanilla PAK kneecap
>>5739588
the other guy is right, I haven't done any sanding or finishing yet, though the character isn't supposed to be totally organic looking so the weird points on his back and tail actually are supposed to look like that.
>>5738983
While the October Toys Forums are still up, check out Toy Break>Create Customs>"Molding? Casting? Ask Away..."
And it's about four years of people's fuck-ups and problems and the answers to them.
I took screengrabs back in October when they were supposed to close the forums and move to new forums, but the new forums are kinda shit and the dude that answered most of the questions got so tired of it he only takes paid consultations, so read it while you can.
Hello customs general! I want to make myself a Squid Kid figure to dress up, I plan on using a blank cu-poche or picco neemo body and a nendoroid face plate and modding on top, but the one thing I don't know at all is what clay I should use!
>>5738728
Because he IS a furfag.
>>5739929
Well, it's been a day and I cleaned out the alcohol bath and looked at the parts. Alcohol did a pretty good job, but there's still some faded gold remnants that I couldn't scrub off with alcohol and a q-tip. I replaced the alcohol and will soak it for like 12 more hours and hope for the best.
(the alcohol looked like piss after it stripped most of the gold paint off lol)
>>5741731
Apoxie sculpt?
Solidworksanon here. Still saving up for a copy of the program so I can work from home, otherwise the next progress will be in September.
In the meanwhile I'm back in my soft toys wheelhouse, working on panels to print through Spoonflower cuz a few professors suggested I bulk up that part of my portfolio. So far it's cephalopods and saturniid moths, any other ideas for critters that would look good with purpose-designed fabrics? I'm going for 'things that could be solid in a museum, zoo, or aquarium giftshop' but other ideas would also be useful.
>>5720487
Guys I've only ever done small touch ups on my toys. but now i want to repaint an entire figure, a transformer
how should i go about this?
based on what i've seen, i should:
rub toy with nail polish remover to remove dirt > use black as the base coat for all parts > paint > top coat
is this process correct?
also, how would i hide brush strokes, wont they be a problem?
>>5742104
did you ever get pics of the finished figure?
>>5742104
Hell yeah those are awesome! Lizards with intricate markings like tegus and blue/green tree monitors would be pretty cool.
Can you share any information about your patternmaking process?
I've been thinking about doing the same thing, but Spoonflower's prices have me too intimidated for now.
I wasn't sure plushies were allowed here, I'm always down to talk about plush making.
>>5742120
>nail polish remover
Acetone? So check beforehand, acetone reacts really badly with some action figure plastic. It might or might not deform your figure. The more rubbery human action figures like NECA stuff and GI joes are definitely rektd by acetone. If so, you can use rubbing alcohol instead.
Then you might want to protect the joints by sanding it etc before doing a complete repaint. Check online tutorial to "prep" figure joints. The point of this is that to prevent paint rubbing.
Then yeah, base coat, paint, top coat.
>>5742104
Paleozoic sea critters are always weird and cool. There's already plushness of them, but things like Anomalocaris, Opabinia, Pikia, trilobites, sea scorpions, placoderm fish, lobe-finned fish, and even Devonian amphibians are great candidates (and could be 1:1 scale for some). And don't forget Amonites too!
>>5742180
Lizards WOULD be great. Im working on a series of ball python morphs, lizards would go well.
As far as pattern drafting itself it's a lot like building skins from lofts and sweeps in a 3D modeling program. I cant really explain how I actually 'calculate' things but cognisantly that's the thought process. That, and making a million lumpy, terrifying prototypes (this was much worse when I mostly made articulated humanoid patterns. Headless torsos, trees of arms, I still have a bag of failed heads somewhere lol) As far as making panels I trace my scanned pattern in Illustrator, adjust to include seam allowance, and then duplicate the outline layer to make a masking layer. The 'textures' themselves are painted in photoshop, placed in the Illustrator file, and masked. For the veins on moth wings, or the suckers on squid arms, I add a third overlay layer with those features vectored in Illustrator.
>>5742447
Ammonites are already on the list, as part of the cephalopod series. Im working out how I want to handle nautilus/ammonite/argonaut shells.
>>5742025
I'll look that up, thanks anon.
>>5742717
I'd suggest a fabric that has a satin appearance, patterned or not, for the ammonite/nautilus/argonaut shells.
>>5743062
Satin type fabrics tend to be too unstable for plush, they shred and pull too easy.
My considerations are more how to handle patterning the shells. IE, needlesculpt the whorl vs making hollow shells and stitching them into the correct shape. I may do the latter for argonauts, cuz they're basically just octopuses in balloons.
>>5742717
I worry I'm wasting too much time on prototypes, how many do you go through before settling on a design?
Got any tips for patterning with minky? I've just started using it and I'm still learning to account for the stretch when patterning.
>>5743080
Have you considered quilting or pleating to make the shell?
>>5743643
It depends on when I get things the way I like them. The squids had 8 prototypes, not counting the prototypes for the octopus pattern they're derived from.
Honestly I have no idea how to explain how to design for minky's slight stretch cuz I originally learned how to pattern for a 4-way spandex knit. As far as I'm concerned minky doesnt have a stretch. The bigger concern is the nap.
Hollow shells would definitely be quilted, but a solid shell would just be needle sculpted. I'd stuff the shape, then sew a whorl into it like a super thick quilt.
>>5743699
The most impressive plush shells I've seen were made from a billion tiny pieces, which would be impossible for mass production, but damn if it doesn't look good
>http://sewnriver.deviantart.com/art/Omanyte-Plush-412816458
>http://ellis-animals.blogspot.co.at/2011/04/lauter-schnecken.html
I learned on fabric with no stretch at all, then started working with 4-way fleece (never again, I hate the loss of detail in fleece). My rule so far is to reduce the horizontal width of pieces by 33% to account for minky's horizontal stretch. But I haven't figured out what to do with adjacent pieces with the nap in different directions yet (like head gussets vs cheek pieces).
Never got the head shape exactly how I wanted and placed the arms a bit too high, but the zipper pocket turned out great. Next up is Warumonzaemon.
I can post the pattern file if anybody wants it.
>>5737303
A customized figure uses a preexisting figure as a base, and is simpler since it's being modified.
A custom figure is fully built from the ground up, and requires more work. This is generally the more difficult and pricey option.
>>5744158
I want it
>>5744158
>>5744241
Let me know if you need any guidance or if there's anything I can do to clarify the pattern file.
>>5744281
And page 2
>>5744158
I don't know how to sew, but I would pay an irresponsible amount of money for my own monzaemon that I can keep stuff in.
>>5744158
>>5744143
If you are the same anon your issues with minky are probably caused by your designs requiring a dense stuffing. Have you tried interfacing? That may give you better stability. For the nap think there's only so much that can be done.
Yeah, 4way stretch is.. interesting? to work with. For articulated plush I make a skeleton with a nonstretch or lowstretch material, armature it, then pull the presewn skins over the parts. The biggest issue is minimizing seams.
What's with that bloodborne like guy in the op, is there anywhere I can buy him?
>>5744158
That looks fantastic. It looks like official Bandai merch.
>>5744488
Nah its just some random guys "custom", i.e. threw together parts and called it a custom.
>>5745236
Get off your high horse anon, that guy comes up with cool stuff.
I need some 1/73 star wars figures. I have some plastic ones from a model kit but I need more. How easy is it to cast something like that?
>>5744488
It's by Fakimus. He usually posts in the Photo General threads too.
>>5745236
Well yeah that's what a custom is.
I want to know how to properly paint figures to have a smoother paint job technique or if you always use a primer o wich brands are the best cus I've made some paint jobs but I'm not completely satisfied with them
>>5745320
Micro Machines had army packs, here's one next to a 1/72nd fig.
The gaps (between the legs, outstretched arms, arms akimbo, etc.) would be the hardest parts of a mold. If you were doing a two part mold, you'd have to clay up the gaps to figure your parting line, and if you want to use a one-part, Smooth-on has a tutorial on glue-shims that would help:
https://www.smooth-on.com/tutorials/creating-glue-shim-help-deal-difficult-original-model/
>>5745661
Alright pal, back to /pol/ with your casual racist shit.
>>5745705
>casual racist shit
What are you even on?
>>5745705
>Casual nigga usage in the friendly form
>Out of line
Normiesssss etc etc
>>5745753
You have to admit they're becoming more of a problem as of late.
Hey guys can someone make a custom of my oc? Here's a pic
>>5746029
Looks really cool anon I'm sure these fine men and women would love to
>>5746034
Oh shit I meant to take my name out of that one.
>>5746029
>>5746034
>>5746063
>>5746077
Hey Anon, how do you feel about Katie Holms?
>>5746077
Not funny, the other guy was a troll
>>5746099
just make a custom of my oc or give me tips on how to. I'm looking to try to make one out of figma but I'm not sure how
>>5746114
What does the O stand for?
