Gunpla/Plamo General
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You are currently reading a thread in /toy/ - Toys
You are currently reading a thread in /toy/ - Toys
For those unfamiliar, "Plamo" is a shortened form of "plastic model." If it's made of plastic, someone can probably help you here.
>"If you're new, you're gonna fuck up. Don't worry! If you're experienced, don't make the new people worry!"
***READ THE GUIDE***
IRC Channel
>Server
Rizon
>Channel
#gunpla
The guide:
https://docs.google.com/document/pub?id=1Tr8UyF2Xg5Ojqw0sxcO7oIG7IIsJPes3lMO5pHZKu5o
And a handy guide to other types of plamo:
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20(Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step).pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com
Some lineart: http://seesaawiki.jp/nuriesozai/lite/d/MenuBar1
http://gundma.imgur.com/
Paint Matcher: http://scalemodeldb.com/paint
Old thread: >>5641011
MG GP03 restock when
>>5650359
When they finally drop 1/100 Mobile Armors.
Just kidding. Hopefully soon.
Reminder that the Bandai Model Kit Boba Fett is best 6-inch Boba Fett.
Happy Star Wars Day.
>>5650467
>weathering on unpainted plastic
Hey /toy/. This used to be my main board, before I started college and lost the time to browse, post, and buy my figures or models. I guess I just want to say is keep supporting your passions, no matter what. I haven't bought a figure or kit in nearly a year but I still endear the hobby.
Enjoy.
Why is a gunpla thread on /toy/?
gunpla aren't toys.
Working on a diorama based on Dark Souls. Gonna prime the graze and paint it up Lothric Knight set. Painted up the Spallow to look like a aged hollow/stone guardian.
>>5650736
And the Spallow. I removed the spoiler and the arm fins, sanded down the chest.
>>5650737
Brigher pic
>>5650359
Someone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong but they restocked some of the 0083 mg's in feb so probably not for a while
have you tried mandy?
Just finished building this guy. Need a new top coat since my testors ran out. Should I just buy other can or get a different brand?
>>5650867
If you're satisfied with your previous results, no need to change. Otherwise get some Tamiya or Mr.Topcoat
the articulation on this tiny guy surprised me
so damn cute
>Try to do a wash
>Use Vallejo grey
>Wash it
>Use Vallejo thinner
>The excess wash doesn't come off
>>5650965
That's why you are supposed to use retarder and flow release and even then clean it up pretty quickly. An acrylic wash behaves differently than an enamel wash. Just like using them as normal paints, the acrylic dries much faster.
>>5650937
I painted one of those up a little while back. Great little kit.
>>5650975
man your seam welding is fantastic!
>>5650974
Question for you
I usually use Tamiya's spray can for base paint job and Vallejo acrylic for the smaller part.
I know Mr. Thinner can remove Tamiya's lacquer paint.
With that, for wash and dry bushing, can I use enamel paint and remove the excess with rubbing alcohol so it won't damage the lacquer coat?
I see if I can post on 4chan tomorrow to show my wash failure.
>>5650014
To answer your question anon, I don't have much free time because of work and for one other reason.
>>5650984
Thanks anon! I agonised over that bloody nose seam for ages, ended up painting the interior eye mechanism, masking it up, cutting the vent bit off the end of the nose and building/welding/painting the rest of the head around it all, then glued the vent back in. I've bought like six more SDs since built that, really need to find the time for them.
Does anyone know if there is a custom out there that makes seraphim look like gurren lagann?
I snapped one up and im thinking of recasting some parts from my revoltech figure of GL to accomodate for shades, drill and shoulder pieces.
Jesus Christ why?
>>5651221
>>5651221
It looks like it's made out of clay.
>>5650991
Are you doing a gloss coat inbetween the paint and the wash?
>>5650937
sup meads
>>5651221
I am triggered.
that walmart paint tho..
>>5651266
eh... heh
>>5651266
It's a fun SD, heheh
Might have to handpaint it with my generic brand acrylics later, heheh
>>5651221
I showed it to my gf and she screamed at the computer "thin your paint!"
How do I get over my scale difference autism? I want to build a Unicorn MG but I only own HGs and RGs and it would look weird.
>>5651280
Some people like them big, and some people like them small. Other people collect the same goddamn mobile suit in every scale and variation and wait for Bandai to feed them the next variant. You don't have to buy it if a larger version of the design somehow doesn't jive with you because it isn't in your preferred scale because they've made one particular design in smaller scales in tons of different variations.
If you seriously need someone else to help you justify buying something outside of your preferred scale, just buy some SDs and call it a day. You'll find more fun out of those than trying to fiddle with the time bomb that is the MG Unicorn.
>>5651274
>GF knows about paint and presumably does the hobby also
Ring. Now.
>>5651280
Just get the MG and display it separate from the others, it's only one kit
I got nothing but HG and RG as well but I'm definitely gonna get a MG FA Unicorn when I manage to save up the money
>>5650999
ah I see. just wanted to have a better understanding of the time investment. ended up ordering char's origin zaku and revive.
>>5651396
Char's Zaku Origin Ver is an excellent kit anon, the panel lines especially
>>5651442
yea I'm going through msg for the first time. I like char way more than fucking amuro
>>5650736
What is the Graze's sword from?
Thinking of installing some LEDs on my kit. How can I wire through ball joints without sacrificing range of motion?
I've seen tutorials for hinge joints, and since it's just 2 degrees of freedom, it's relatively straightforward how to keep the range of motion intact. Ball joints not so much.
Also, am I pretty much guaranteeing that I won't be able to take my kit apart if I wire though ball joints? Is there a way to still take it apart without needing to cut the wire?
>>5651494
Koto weapon set 33, comes with 4 swords.
>>5651442
damn I really need to order one of these
do you bully people who don't paint their kits?
>>5651496
If you wire LED through multiple body parts you need to be prepared for your kit to become a glorified statue. You are going to be sacrificing some range of motion when its a balljoint piece or else risk pulling the wire out or having a bunch of ugly exposed slack.
>>5651496
metal conducting ball joint in physical contact with exposed wires on the other side, like a brush in a dc motor
>>5651590
Of course. I berate and antogize them then smash their shitty unpainted builds with a shoe or hammer or whatever I have handy really. I finish up by dumping paint all over them and throwing a handful of brushes at their face and tell them to git gud.
>>5651590
Bullying is wrong, anon.
can I do chip and other damage paint if I don't paint the gunpla? will it look like shit if I do?
>>5651612
Says you. Just look at this unpainted piece of shit. I would have bullied the fuck out of him if I had been at the Australia gbwc last year.
Not Gunpla (it's for a figure) but question:
I want to paint something with a clear paint, but the plastic underneath is slightly scratched up (therefore more dull than I'd like it to be) due to the removal of the previous layer of paint.
Is clear gloss -> clear paint -> clear gloss again an actual thing? Or does it not matter, and I can just clear paint -> clear gloss.
>>5651626
Is that just bare plastic? At least slap some topcoat on it if you're going to wire it up and enter it in a competition, goddamn.
>>5651634
The plastic in question is clear plastic, to be specific.
Need to get it as clear as it can be.
>>5651634
Do you mean the plastic underneathe is a clear part as well?
Then if you want to remove scratches before adding the clear color you want to coat it with a self leveling liquid gloss. The standard for doing this sort of thing is pledge with future. Just coat the clear part and watch the scratches disappear over night. Just for the love of god don't touch it at all while its drying.
This doesn't work on opaque parts though. It makes scratches more obvious on those actually.
>>5651637
The red is unpainted. It was the Australian gbwc winner last year. It has a ton of detailing done to it in addition to the LED and apparently took 6 months to finish.
Absolute noob here, how long does it take to build a kit?
I'll spend like 6 hours straight cutting out pieces and sanding away at them trying hard to remove nub marks, and I'll only make it through 3-4 steps of the manual in that time.
I've been trying to finish a kit for months now and I only finished the legs and head so far. Does it really take half a year to finish a kit?
>>5651660
Nigga are you playing with puzzles where they have 5000pc per kit? Or are you spending 6 hours to cut out/sand/etc. pieces and then leaving it alone for 2 months before continuing? I can't comprehend how you can be working on (assuming an HG because >noob) a kit for several months and only having 2 legs and the head done.
>>5651641
Yeah! That what I was thinking of doing, thanks m8!
It's indeed clear plastic. I didn't realize that Gundam marker erasers had a grit to them, so the plastic ended up having some fine scratches (normally I'd just let it settle in alcohol, but I had to use a marker in this case).
>>5651660
What kit are you working on?
>>5651660
This
Except I detail and finish painting each piece on the runner right after I cut it out and denub it.
>>5651626
Chill out.
In an interview he stated that it was either his 3rd or 4th kit he had ever built.
>>5651604
Is this what you meant?
The conductive ball joint would only provide current in 1 direction with no way of traveling up back to the power source.
>>5651711
I realize that now, so what about multiple power sources? then no wires need to run through ball joints
>>5651670
I'm spending at least 10 minutes sanding every piece I cut out. Granted I have taken breaks for a couple weeks because it's so damn tedious.
>>5651696
Pic related
>>5651724
Having separate circuits could work, though I plan on wiring it up to a small 555 timer circuit (so I can have fade in/fade out, flickering, etc).
I can't exactly fit a 555 astable configuration with a hefty capacitor needed for fading all in a hand for example.
>>5651726
>Spending 10 minutes sanding every piece
Jesus are you sanding them into piles of dust or something?
>>5651743
Yeah, uh, anon. This is gonna take forever if you do it that way. Instead just use your nippers to cut the excess nub to almost flush to avoid stress marks, then sand from there.
>>5651743
Oh and when I'm trimming down the nub, I'm using the same nippers.
>>5651746
Yeah but trimming it isn't what takes long. That's literally 5-10 seconds. I spend all my time sanding, trying to remove stress marks which will usually take me 10 minutes per piece.
>>5651752
Dude, #17 and #18 blades.
>>5651743
Just get an xacto knife and shave off the nub after you clip it from the runner
>>5651743
>Not just using an xacto and shaving it down
>>5651764
I love the #17, you can keep them razor sharp with micromesh. I really important tool for scratch too, especially those sexy beveled edges
I wish they made a 1/8th inch wide version and a saw blade that had single file teeth
>>5651743
Oh I think I get it now.
You're one of those guys who polish the nub back up to near smooth plastic level right?
Yeah, I don't think most of us bother with that. I don't even go past 1000 grit since with a flat coat or proper paint job you can't tell the difference.
I know we have more new people recently so I just wanted to take this opportunity to say if you don't like sanding or placing stickers very accurately, that's what must of real painting comes down to in the forms of surface preparation and masking. It's not like once you start painting etc. you just get an extra half a kit to build. Just something to consider if you are curious about getting more into the hobby.
>>5651743
1200 is way too high, even after shaving. Start at 600 and the following grits will be much quicker
Does anyone else use a cerafinisher? Ever since i got one its become my go to tool for shaving plastic & seam removal. Saves so much time its crazy.
>>5651897
>Looks neat. How well does it cut through the material Bandai uses for their foil stickers?
no idea, i dont use stickers. Its a pretty unique tool, it behaves like a knife when shaving, but the finish comes out much smoother, the blade is abrasive, so rubbing it against plastic grinds away the surface, its amazing for deseaming tiny recessed areas you couldnt reach with a knife or sandpaper just by using the blade point. And being a super dense ceramic blade, it never seems to go blunt.
>>5651984
tried out some rustoleum on plastic spoons, the flats looked pretty good, considering a 12 ounce can is $3.74 at walmart, not sure what to think about the satin gray, there weren't many grays to choose from. My picture doesn't do it justice since my photo is all shaky. I think it will hopefully look good on my graze.
Also I read that you want to put a clear gloss coat on before panel lining, then after lining you can put a clear coat matte finish on it? That's what I was planning to do anyways.
>>5651856
This is me, I can't help myself.
>>5652086
Biggest issue there is how ungodly thick that paint goes on.
>>5652128
Me too, brother. Could be worse. You could be like me and see the scratch marks, so you go so smooth, it's SMOOTHER than the original plastic. Then you get mad because it looks different, then smooth it all!
>>5652349
you only have one life anon
>>5652383
Just buy an airbrush, don't even bother fucking around with spray cans.
Here it is.
bandai Star Destroyer.
Primed, sprayed, and washed.
>>5652384
For sure, I just wanted to play with some paint right now at least. Any you recommend personally? I know the guide talks about the badger and an iwata. I was gonna lean with the iwata just because of nippon folded 1 million times quality.
>>5652399
I quite like my Badger Patriot. No issues that weren't me doing something wrong (or forgetting to push the needle all the way forward). As for compressors, I bought a Master TC20T, and it's worked fine as well.
>>5652404
I should probably just buckle down and get a badger since everyone I've chatted with enjoyed them. Luckly I have a compresser with everything it needs. It's funny that the only thing I don't have is an airbrush. Thanks again for all your input.
>>5652431
It's also actually in stock on Amazon right now, which is nice. I see it out of stock pretty often.
>>5652431
what compressor
>>5652431
I have the Krome and I hate it
>>5652552
HOW
>>5652555
It's behind the bottle, not in it.
Hi guys, I'm very new to making model kit. So I got the Little Armory AT4 rocket launcher and it came with a decal that you need to cut on your own and put on the model.
Any tips for beginners? The rocket launcher is 1/12 so I doubt my hamhand had the dexterity to do this properly. Should I cut everything to size, or leave extra so the sticker doesn't get crumpled when I pull the decal off? Would using a tweezer help?
>>5652556
Nope
http://hobbycom.jp/my/b555ed1578/photo/products/12189
I posted earlier about how I could run wires through ball and socket joints without sacrificing range of motion by too much.
Basically, my idea is to drill a hole at the pit of the socket wide enough to allow the wire coming out of the ball to travel a good amount.
How much structural integrity would I be sacrificing by drilling out a larger hole at the pit of the socket? Would the joint be more "floppy" if I just allowed the outer perimeter of the socket to carry the ball?
>>5652599
These are stickers? Just take a ruler and do some practice cutting runs on a piece of paper, preferably with the sharpest pen knife/boxcutter. Even better if you have a hobby knife.
Also don't apply too much force, keepbyour hand stable and slice a couple times carefully
>>5652705
I think making a cavity near the exit point at the socket would give it extra clearance to rotate
I'm too sick to draw up an image but imagine a crater at the exit point of the socket which will allow the wires to rotate at a larger angle without lputtingbtoo much strain on the wire
>>5652772
So my idea (as in my diagram) would work then basically in retaining range of motion?
See my only concern is how strong the joint would be after I cored out a cavity at the bottom of the socket. Would the joint lose strength and become flimsy or will the surrounding socket material provide enough friction to retain the strength of the joint?
>>5650870
These are my only experience with it and it seemed kind of eh to me. Though I could have just not done it well.
>>5652808
Here's a zaku sprayed with tamiya TS-80 flat clear.
so is 400 grit sand paper fine if I cut as much as the nub I can. can't find any 1000 in my area.
>>5652808
Yeah that coat seems rather unnoticeable, especially on the Turn A
>>5652599
They are cheap ass paper based stickers, they look like absolute shit and they start to peel right away (even on promo pictures if you look closely).
The only way to make them look good is to cut them precisely and then seal them with a gloss coat immediately after applying.
>>5652555
>>5652556
>>5652651
checked his profile, hard to find stuff on the stie when ya can't read moon but I managed to scrounge up this progress photo. he seems to try and put in assembled parts as big as possible and then put them together using tweezers if the butchered up auto translate of the comments is anything to go by.
>>5652843
400 is to high you run the risk of sanding a lot and leave the part rough instead of polished, try in automotive shops or ask for high grit nail grinders
I regret not buying the water slides for this kit
Will a second layer of topcoat hide the stickers more?
(I've fixed the botched shield sticker)
>>5652969
alright one more question. where is the best place to buy paint and top coat? preferably Tamiya color.
>>5652978
Your local store
>>5652986
don't have one.
>>5652978
Local hobby store, if you don't have one, then what cunt?. Amazon sells them but they cannot be international shipped because they're flammable. Have you tried vallejo? they're water based so they can be shipped internationaly and are pretty good
>>5650652
you seems to be upset, but why?
>>5652990
aight thanks for the recommendation man. if I can't get the Tamiya I'll get those.
>>5652977
>Will a second layer of topcoat hide the stickers more?
Not really. You dun gouf'd m8.
>unironically using stickers
>>5652888
What's a gloss coat?
Is it like http://www.amazon.com/Testor-Corp-1261-Glosscote-Testors/dp/B0035LHAEK
>>5652705
that will structurally weaken it pretty heavily, think about bending a tube vs a rod of the same material
>>5652977
No. Fuck stickers.
>>5653059
get that testors wet look clear that shit is great
you will need a matte topcoat after that of course or you're going to have a super shiny rocket launcher
>>5652705
Depends on scale. For what you want to do, might aswell remove the ball and make a custom insert for the wires
What kind of spray cans would I need to achieve this look? Metallic, but not too reflective?
>>5653327
THIN YOUR PAINTS
>>5653327
Literally any chrome topped with a dull coat.
Can water slides go on matte topcoat?
>>5653334
fuck off retard
>>5653285
It's 1/100 scale. The joints are already very stiff on its own.
Can you elaborate though? What do you mean by removing the ball and making a custom insert?
hey guys, im planning to do a painted model with the inspiration being a jungle camo unit. I am still kinda new when it comes to the anime, so my actual model knowledge is small. im looking for a model of a gundam with that looks terrestrial and utilitarian, so mainly no wings and little ornamentation. id also like it to have a shield and a domed or semi-domed head . if there are any gundam models like this, could you please recommend one. id really prefer it to be a gundam, but im alright with zakus and what not.
>>5653451
EZ8 is what you want.
>>5653093
Very fair, I guess I could strengthen up the socket by pouring in material around the leftover socket? Plastic cement a little at a time or even epoxy?
literally perfect. thanks anon.
>>5652977
Doesn't top costing the frame parts make them brittle?
>>5653327
Literally any metallic spray can.
If you think you can achieve a look that's more reflective than this with a spray can I got bad news for ya.
>>5653335
So something like Testors Silver with Tamiya's Matte Clear Coat?
>>5653534
Sounds like you need to read up on/watch some weathering guides if you're asking this question.
Stop thinking of it as "top"coat and start thinking of it as "clear"coat. You apply and use different kinds at different steps, usually with a final flat at the end to seal everything in and blend it all together.
>>5653601
alright anon thanks. I'll look into it.
>>5653442
Yea dude idk if this project is for you. What i said was simple enough, remove the ball and make it a tube insert. And while doing this, if you plan on making the arm light up and move, you have to have enough wiring to go through. You still get some movement
>>5653669
I see what you're saying now. Yeah that could work, it would just be a matter of actually building up these parts (unless I can get these parts somewhere premade).
How strong would that be though? A tube would have the tendency to slack/bend and whatnot when weight is put on it. And making the tube walls too thick would heed any possibility for mobility that isn't torsional.
>>5653705
You can use styrene to scrath build it, some of the sheets are strong enough or you can use that molding plastic, that would be better actually since you can shape it to whatever and it hardens pretty well
Noob here, never water decaled anything before. Anyone had experience with the Bandai 1/12 kit? Is water slide decal infinitely better than sticker? Say I want to water decal, it seems like it is recommended to top coat gloss your figure before applying water decal, am I right?
So first a gloss coat, decal, then another top coat gloss again afterward. Would that make Vader too glossy? He had some matte part and glossy part too, would the top coat make everything glossy?
Sorry for the noobery guys
>>5653351
not without looking bad.
Added some detail to the background, making it look more like the forest part of ds1. Graze is in bits waiting to be painted. Dont really know what else to put for scenery detail
>>5653838
Unless you are trying to recreate a tentacle rape scene, that moss is way to thick for the scale.
>>5653859
That's just pic quality making it look thick.
The moss thickness is about right, if it looks like its enveloping the model than its doing the job right
/gpg/, what are some things that give you ASMR (or whatever you call it, I don't know)?
>when the gate/nub remain after cutting it from the runner is small enough that you can basically flick it off with your blade's edge and end up with minimal cleanup afterwards
>>5653765
I don't think you need to topcoat if you're not painting.
On that same vein, I've been applying my waterslides in this order;
decal->mark softer->drying->future(via cotton swab)
In theory the future should protect the decal until I can go and put a proper flatcoat, right?
>>5653974
Thanks, what's a future?
>>5653982
It's floor polish.
>>5653982
Pledge floor polish that doubles as gloss top coat
>>5653982
Pledge with Future, a floor finish that's actually a clear liquid acrylic that's commonly used by modelers as a fantastic clear coat.
I think nowadays it's just called Pledge FloorCare Finish, but I'm not sure.
>>5653982
>>5653998
http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
I find it strange that there is no standard origin zaku by now.
>>5653982
>what's a future
homeless nigger's acrylic clear gloss paint
>>5654041
I would buy five right off the bat for squad building
>>5654086
We all would. I wouldn't hesitate buying 30 of them for a battle field if i had the chance.
>>5654097
>I wouldn't hesitate
You know anon, maybe you should.
>>5652848
>>5652842
So this is the one I should be going for, right?
I was going to get an airbrush from a relative since he knows a few guys, and was wondering, since I still plan on using acrylic, do I need a full on respirator? I figured something that would filter out the paint particles would be fine since acrylic doesnt have bad fumes. Would pic related be good?
>>5654149
do you want to die young or not?
>>5654163
maybe?
>>5654149
>R.I.P.
>here lies anon
>he didn't read the guide
>>5654149
Of course. It will filter out all the dust so only the important fumes and particulates get into your lungs.
Joke aside get a respirator.
Pic not mine, but an idea came from watching jabman025's MG Dark Matter Exia review. He painted the gray blade blue and purposely made it frosty and shiny to give it an ice-like appearance, to contrast with the clear orange of the other sword.
I think that's pretty neat and I'm interested in doing that too, but I'd like the base suit to be more ambiguous-looking (I think DM Exia looks too "evil", for lack of a better word).
Any ideas on what would work as the base suit?
The only thing that comes to my mind now is Transient Gundam, but do you guys have any suggestions?
How about Sinanju?
>>5654148
Yeah that's the one.
>>5654149
Yes. The smell isnt much, but its not worth inhaling the fumes or dying of kidney failure
>>5654192
Is this blog posting?
>>5654192
Sinanju screams "I'm the villain" with its gold ornamenting and sharp edges. Meanwhile, Sinanju Stein sits along the fine line between good and bad since it's a mix of Nu Gundam and Sazabi. However, you could easily change the colors for the original red Sinanju (original being it was released first).
Gaeon and 1.5 Gundam (it depends with Reborns Gundam/Cannon) are fairly ambiguous looking and would look good with a big sword (Gaeon would need to be right-handed only unless you give it a new set of hands). My personal pick would be either Sazabi or Miss Sazabi.
>>5654227
First part read like one
>>5654214
no he asked a question with proper background.
>some guy on youtube painting an mg nu ver ka with sharpies
aaaaaaaaaaaa
![[CHICKEN PICNIC INTENSIFIES].gif](https://i.imgur.com/WWfz488.gif "[CHICKEN PICNIC INTENSIFIES].gif")
>>5654325
>using Sharpie on Gunpla
Useful for tiny clear parts
>on MGs
Oh dear God
>on Nu ver Ka specifically
This world deserves to burn or at least have an atmosphere of atomized paint
I haven't gotten a single IBO kit yet, and the time has come.
What are your favorite HG IBO kits?
>>5654352
The original HG Barbatos. Just get a marker or something so you don't have to use the power symbol stickers. They don't stay down.
>>5654352
Hyakuren (both colors) and Kimaris (both versions).
I really only got the former because I love Jetstream Sam's design and the Hyakuren is pretty close.
I'll also add Ryusei-Go only because I like it's a red/pink MS that isn't trying to be a blatant Char reference. The new back skirt is great for tacking on one of the Teiwaz accessories.
>>5654352
Graze. Any graze of any scale. No seriously Graze. The 1/100 coming out in June comes with a ton of accessories. But seriously, Graze. Graze Graze Graze Graze Graze Graze Graze Graze Graze Graze Graze Graze Graze Graze Graze Graze Graze Graze Graze Graze Graze
Other than that, pretty much all the ones I've built so far have been great, even Man Rodi.
>>5654397
is there gonna be a 1/144 ground graze?
>>5654193
Thank you
>>5654422
>I also should have asked if there was any kit to definitely avoid, but it isn't looking like it?
Honestly, the worst in my opinion is HG Gusion, but that's a very very weak "Worst". They've all been cheap, very well detailed (Even the HG), and wonderfully engineered. The Gusion is just a bit restricted in some of his joints because of his bulk.
You may also want to consider looking at some of the accessory packs.
>>5654419
Nothing announced. The 1/100 is your best bet if you seriously want the design.
>>5654422
I like both of the Kimaris since they accomplish different combat situations: space and ground (Trooper's info states it can operate in space like the regular Kimaris, strangely enough). I'd compare them like this: Physalis and Dom.
I recommend picking up an accessory pack, but only get MS Option Set 4 if you're getting a Kimaris.
For me, the kits you could "avoid" are the Gusions, but, even then, they both appeal to different tastes and they're nicely done (although Rebake still needs a lot of paint, stickers notwithstanding). Heck, I even think Gusion Rebake is worth getting if you like sniper units and its custom Graze Rifle is worth the price alone (only because I plan on tacking the guns from the Ritters onto it once I get around to picking Rebake up).
>>5654422
Yeah the Graze thing really isn't a joke, it's seriously fucking awesome.
>>5654455
I love the graze, I'm currently working on a sort of wehrmacht version of it, since it has such a realistic, non-samurai look to it, and I have tonnes of decals around
>>5654461
You should grab a Geara Zulu and jack it's weapons. Make it as official as possible.
>>5654465
I also love the geara zulu, I'm going to try and find one at anime north or in a store, if not i'll order it somewhere. As soon as I watched unicorn I fell in love with the geara
>>5654455
Everyone needs a Graze. And to customize it in some way. I wouldn't even care if the second part of the series in the fall has even more of them in it.
>>5654455
I thought that was a fallen over grimoire in the background for a second.
>>5654471
I kinda see where you're coming from.
tfw the wait to pop my gunpla cherry is killing me. is this my life now? just waiting for them to dry or come in the mail?
>>5654422
They are all alright. Normal gusion is just bulky and has less movement while the ezbake has a lot of touch up painting.
Though it's more like the other kits don't have as much colors.
Grimderge has those nice swords.
>>5654497
Where'd you order your gunpla from? Some anons here will wait months without tracking info for their kits because of SAL.
>>5654515
I order most of my weeb shit from amiami. I'm not up on the short hands. but I ship air small packet. usually takes about 2 weeks.
>>5654325
What a waste of $70
Worked on detailing graze some more. Started adding these flap things to the reactor thing on the back similar to grimgerde and the gundams. They need a little cleaning up and I need to finish the bit at the top but otherwise I think it's off to a good start.
>>5654325
link??
What does /GPG/ do with their empty boxes and instructions when they finish a kit?
>>5655012
Manuals gets put in a box, empty boxes are flattened and put in another box, to some day cover a wall.
>>5655012
Instructions goes into a rg z'gok box. Box art cut up and stored in sazabi ver ka box.
Used to keep all the box art but I only keep those I like now to save space.
Forgot to post this up here yesterday. Pg wing ver ka I'm working on isn't far from finished. I've just got the buster rifle, decals and panel lines to go.
>>5654397
PG Graze Ein when?
>>5655307
Looks like nice work, mate.
I need to reiterate though that the EW redesigns are shit and the Wing redesign is the worst of them all.
>>5655307
RIP Zaku II in the corner
>>5655330
>being this salty.
>>5655307
Looking nice man. Is that the gundam color set from Mig? Is that any good?
>>5655450
Yeah, I haven't really tried them out with the exception of some hand brushing. They seem pretty nice from what little I've used so far.
What is your opinion on turning THe O into a golden statue?
>>5655649
I don't see why not?
Starting rough work on this guy, the proportion modernization diet has begun. So far the upper chest, side hip armor and forearm have been changed on the right side. I think it helps the kit seem newer so far. The skirt changes are going to be some of the largest because the old kit skirts are fuck huge compared to modern ones, and they needed to be because the legs stop much sorter, so I may need to extend the thigh armor or something. Still figuring all that out.
ULTIMATE GUNDAM
>>5655675
Kyoji?
>>5655673
The legs aren't too much longer on the new kit, but the skirt is way smaller. The legs are also thinner, but I'm not sure how much I can do besides the shin armor because of the internal frame. Still debating there.
>>5655704
The gm is for a book and it's to see what kind of things you can do to a simple kit and have it still recognizable which is why I picked a really plain kit. So basically sky is the limit for this guy.
What's everyone working on today?
I just finished test fitting the DM Booster on the 0 Gundam.
I'll probably prime it in the coming days.
Are you a noble mind?
>>5655649
>>5655813
This guy went beyond the time
>>5655813
Does anyone know what the yellow Hyaku Shiki in the middle of the top row is?
>>5655894
MG Ballute system hyaku shiki maybe?
>>5655917
The proportions are completely different. The one in the group shot seems to be an action figure.
>>5655813
>You will never have this pure of a time.
Why livee?
>>5654759
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RUCjd-4Q5Z0
probably this one
>>5655955
that actually looks really good.
>>5655955
Why do youtube reviewers always sound like they have a lisp and talk like they have something stuck in their throat?
>>5655989
Which is why, even after two years of him gone, I really think rrobbert184 was a gem.
I still reopen his old gunpla review videos sometimes because I love listening to him talk.
>>5655955
So is he just doing his own colorscheme or is it supposed to look like that?
https://www.patreon.com/gunplagamer?ty=h
>>5655989
So I'm considering painting a forest color-styled EZ-8, but I had a lot of trouble deciding what looked decent. Are either of these alright, or should I just make the main body brownish and replace the blue with green?
>>5656069
You can get digital camo masking tape.
http://www.hiqparts.com/product/482
Might want to look into that.
>>5656069
Less dark brown.
>>5652394
Bit of a late reply, but looks good. I just ordered one a few days ago.
>>5656069
if you want that color scheme, you should probably do it camo style.
neither of the ones you posted look very good
>>5656069
The first one looks better but it needs a bit more green to break up the larger blocks of colour.
>>5655955
Why does he sound like hes about to cry?
Building Transient now. Is it just me or is the plastic runners really fragile?
Related, fuck clear blue plastic.
>>5651221
THIN
>>5651660
I finish an MG in like 4 to 8 hours. Usually spread out over 3 or 4 days.
Anyone every done custom decals?
1. If I buy those white (ie not transparent) sheet decals that I can use with an injet printer, should I still use Mr. Mark Setter and Softener? And good and or horror stories with printing your own decals?
2. Has anyone ever ordered custom decals from Samuel Decals? His old site says $35 bucks for a custom sheet, when I could just go to the store and buy one for 400 yen and not have to wait at all.
>>5656069
I'd do something like this if I wanted an EZ-8 with a forest feel.
my camera is so fucking shitty, put the basic colors on the graze. need to touch up the bigger pieces since some green is showing through. also I scratched the living shit out of the paint while putting it together, but the basic colors looks decent.
I put the rustoleum on way too heavy, so heavy I screwed up most of the dark brown parts, but luckly rustoleum is acrylic so the paint came off after an overnight bath in isopropyl alcohol and some scrubbing. every where else though it went on really well, aside from the parts I painted brown.
