This thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resin) models kits.
-Post photos of your builds in progress and your finished builds
-Have your builds critiqued or critique others
-Discuss tips and techniques
-Ask for advice or give advice to others
The World War II group build is going on now and ends on March 31.
Some helpful guides to get started:
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20%28Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step%29.pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com/
Previous thread:
>>5274813
Well, how do I avoid the carpet monster? I seem to lose so many small beige-coloured parts to it.
I tried modelling over a tray but it made no difference, pieces still ping off into the nether.
Right now I wait until the kitchen is free and make kits in there... The grey tiled floor makes it easier to find parts.
How to prime vinyl, specifically hollow 1/35 AFV tyres? What primer to use?
>>5294554
not oil based paints
probably not enamels either
>>5294555
Polyurethane primer like Vallejo? What about AK or AMMO primer?
>>5294554
Vinyl is a bitch to paint which is why many people hate vinyl tracks and tires and choose to replace them.
>>5294445
http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/general_discussion/f/9/t/22737.aspx
>>5294561
No idea. I use Halfords primer which isn't even intended for models.
I posted these a few threads ago, but I'm still not sure whether to strip them or not.
>>5294657
the photos are shit, but hey ho.
>>5294657
They look decent, you want to practice on them?
>>5294802
I don't like them.
>>5294807
I think the faces are iffy and uniforms look bad.
>>5294813
I thin paints now. But yeah, it's my fault for painting them under a shitty lamp.
The figures are quite nice, but my painting was shite
Finished the upper brown paint color. I did chipping using maskol, just need to wait for the paint to completely dry for a few hours before I remove it all, started a little pre-maturely and it was pulling away too much paint.
I pre-shaded first with flat black, then put on a base color of a 1:1 mixture of XF-10 and XF-59 to make a tan-brown color. Then I very lightly post-shaded a 1:2 mixture of XF-10 and XF-60 to fade the original color a little bit. I also highlighted the flaps with a lighter variant of the base color by adding more XF-59 since the flaps were made from covered fabric.
Once I get the bottom done I'll gloss coat it with future. I only have two decals to add to it since I airbrushed the stenciling. I'll do a medium-grey wash over the entire model, then I'll seal everything up with a flat coat. Not going to do any other extensive weathering, though I'm thinking about doing some salt-fading at the very end.
>>5294818
Do you know techniques like edge highlighting?
>>5295022
I do now. These were painted about a month ago.
Done with the paintwork completely, what do you guys think? I think it turned out pretty well, I might add some more chipping using a sponge and some aluminum paint in addition to the stuff already present though. I tried to only place it in areas that would have been worn from maintenance and entering / exiting the cockpits.
Now all I have to do is paint a gloss coat over everything and do weathering.
>>5295430
Slightly better angle here. The kit is pretty old (~1996) but it is still alright I guess, one of the worse fits I've had building a Tamiya kit.
>>5294989
The brown looks too dark and the props should be a different shade of brown.
>>5295476
what colour photographs are you referencing?
I just had a google, didn't really see any.
just want to compare his build.
>>5295530
Not him, but he was right on the propeller color, I did use the wrong color by mistake, but as for the main base color I'm leaving it as is. I used the color recommendation Tamiya gives, and their colors are always a little off honestly, but still I'm not too concerned about getting the exact shade of color correct.
Here's the build I've been using as sort of a reference for my own.
http://www.hyperscale.com/2015/galleries/shitei48vs_1.htm
>>5295541
>You know what, fine buddy, I'm not going to post in these shitty threads anymore.
>I'm totally leaving now guise.
>posts again
>>5295541
I wouldn't worry too much about the colors. I've seen a platoon of Abrams that's painted in NATO camo and they all look a bit different from each other.
>>5295551
Time to fuck off, timmy. He is the only guy which posts quality content and I follow his builds as sometimes he is the only one who keeps the thread alive.
Why don't you grab your 3 dollar testors brush set and shove it up your cheap putty blasted asshole?
>>5295833
Him and the tripfag are the only ones that post content.
>>5295833
>I'm the only guy which posts quality content and I follow my builds as sometimes I'm the only one who keeps the thread alive.
FTFY
So much for leaving...
Progress on the Albatros. Today the fuselage should be done, finish adding the rib tapes to the tail planes, and do the elevator rigging.
No idea why the neindorf wood paneling was like such, it makes no sense to me, but whatever.
>>5295941
>mixing paint and primer
U wot m8
With acrylic, is a ratio of 1:1 paint/primer a good amount?
>>5295950
Thin to the consistency of milk ffs
>>5295950
KEK. Yeah, 1:1 works great with Tamiya and Model Master Acrylics.
>>5295927
Finished one of the turnbuckles for the elevator controls, 3 to go for the tail, and 32 left for the wings.
anyone had experience with single link tracks?
>>5296742
if you're talking about individual track pieces, then yes.
I prefer them over all other forms
>>5296773
Yeah, I hate link and length. I've never been able to get them good.
Just got this from a friend. Ive never heard of this brand and I want to know more about this model. If you guys can that be awesome. Im a relatively experienced builder and this shouldn't be an difficult build.
>>5297436
someone was developing a PE for it, it seems.
http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=7495&start=80
>>5297436
Use google you lazy fuck
So... anyone wanna help me out? When I was spraying the texture was really droopy. I suppose I put in too much thinner?
Also, sorry for the quality, DSLR wasn't in arm's reach.
>>5297710
Jesus christ, learn to paint.
>>5297745
That's what I'm doing buddy. This is my first kit that I'm painting.
>>5297710
If you're having thinner issues, as in your ratio is always too thin or too thick, then thin it to the "too thin" side and do a few passes of mist coating.
That will allow a very light layer of paint which should help the following, heavier coats to adhere better. It's not just about thinning, but how you're applying paint.
>>5297710
Your paint is way too thin. If you are airbrushing, spray some primer on first. Your paint should be the consistency of milk.
>>5297851
>>5297758
I'll give it another shot tomorrow. Thanks guys.
IT'S TIME
http://vvsmodelling.com/2015/11/23/148-amk-mig-31bmbsm-foxhound/
>>5298082
Not really a plane builder myself. I have dabbled in 1/72 WW2 fighters, though.
>>5298082
Noice but is anyone gonna do Mig-25 and Mig-31 in 1/72? Seriously, they're badly needed.
>>5298082
>Example of great ingeneering
Here's my Merkava, with initial painting and post shading done.
Will do weathering, detail painting and wheels later.
>>5298473
Honest question; what is the advantage of painting your tracks and wheels while on the model like that as opposed to separately? Whenever I do armor, I always leave the tracks and wheels off and paint them individually, and I don't put anything on the model until its fully painted / weathered.
If I were to assemble that kit, I would have left the side-skirts off until finished painting and just glue them on with CA glue. It just seems like doing it that way is going to make painting the tracks and wheels a major pain in the ass. That said, it looks alright, what model is this? Academy, Meng?
>>5298497
>what is the advantage of painting your tracks and wheels while on the model like that as opposed to separately?
Less parts to keep tabs on and potentially lose (I build multiple kits at once and it's easy to lose parts)
Stronger glue bond, and easier for me to not worry about glue mistakes over the paint.
It's a bit more difficult to paint, but I'm used to doing it this way now.
>what model is this? Academy, Meng?
It's Meng, their first Merkava. I like it a lot, despite its few shortcomings.
>building a kike tank
>muh 6 gorillion
>>5298551
>>5298551
I'm also building an Allah Snackbar tank :^)
They could fight over my dusty shelf space.
>>5298563
>not being pro-Israel means you're a muslim terrorist
I can't decide what to build. Too many choices and I need aftermarket for the plans I have for many of them.
>>5298563
>Allah Snackbar tank
You mean donkey-mounted RPG?
Finished with detail painting, just gonna apply the decals and weather it some more.
I also decided to weather this KT I was working on.
this thread is so much nicer without the cancerous redditfag and tripfag.
>>5300802
Please tell me that zimmerit is aftermarket. ALSO, PANZER IV WHEN.
>>5301007
But there's still cancerous you shitposting.
>>5301007
here's a (You)
>>5301109
>Please tell me that zimmerit is aftermarket.
Nah, it's one of those Dragon kits which has the molded-on zimmerit.
>ALSO, PANZER IV WHEN.
wut?
dead thread
>>5304477
That's what happens when you act like elitist, shit-eating faggots and chase everyone away.
>>5304477
tfw can't work up motivation to work on model. Maybe tomorrow.
Does anybody want this? I got it some time ago for five dollars at a swap meet, but then soon realized that the chassis is all wrong with the piece that are provided.
Look pretty old though.
>>5304644
I doubt anyone wants an Italeri kit from the 60s. Just toss it or use it as a test bed.
>>5304588
Haven't worked on anything in a while. Where did others go? 1/32 plane fag, Staghound fag, battleship fag?
>>5304980
it's a shitty fucking kit from the 60s. from the fucking 60s. are you retarded?
>>5304976
You fags scared them all away. 1/32 guy/battleship left for reddit, staghound guy just left.
>>5304980
It's the worst Hetzer kit in 1/35 scale.
>>5304644
I could use it for kitbashing some ork vehicles if you are giving it away
>>5304996
God damn shitposters. These threads were starting to pick up pace and now they're dying. During tge course of the year I've seen a lot of works here by a lot of people but very few were finished and 1/32 planefag was the main contributor. Also this ww2 GB isn't doing to well. I want to finish Italeri's Hs129 first but I'm either busy or doing other things.
>>5305018
It was probably the gundamfags that shitposted the thread to death.
>>5305064
If anyone is interested in getting an 1/48 Tamiya Sdkfz 251 you can get it on Amazon for 16€ and free shipping (from Japan) at the moment.
Usual price is between 20 and 25€ for that kit.
http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0026IBBTI?keywords=Tamiya%201%2F48&qid=1448622655&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2
>>5300802
Great looking Tiger.
Is it still WIP?
You seemed to have forgotten to paint the MG barrel.
I also marked the spot between the schurzen area where usually another panel of schurzen should be. There shouldn't be camo paint on the tank since the schurzen panel would have blocked that area off when the tank was painted .
>>5304644
Put it on ebay or offer it in one of the bigger scale modell forums.
Those old kits might be bad (from a builders point of view), but they sure are rare and there are lots of collectors out there who might pay more than $5 for it.
Just sayin
>>5305269
not him but ive seen a couple of tank pics with that panel missing, why is it always that one?
>>5305387
>why is it always that one?
Because people apparently think it looks best if the middle piece is missing.
>>5305395
I meant real ones. But don't let me get in the way of your snarky replies.
The lower and upper hull of my Panther D are finished. Also the gun barrel is lathed. Tomorow I will finish the turret and add the surface primer.
>>5305429
The details on the hull are pretty neat on the new Panther model.
>>5305432
what u use to take pictures?
>>5305437
My smartphone Note 3
>>5305462
these new phone pics are better than my Nikon d90. cant afford a macro lens atm.
>>5305429
Is that the newer tamiya one? Considering getting that or one of the dragon panthers.
>>5305671
Yes its the new 2015 kit
>>5304976
1/72 B-17F 1/48 p-51 here. Not much work going on. I added the oil grain to my wood. The doors look like crap since I couldn't get the paint off (enamel). Plan on spraying the aluminium on the P-51 next weekend.
>>5305826
>adding oil to your wood
>>5305671
You should check the kits before buying.
Tamiya one comes without single link tracks (vinyl ones instead) but you can buy several upgrades for the kit.
Dragon are more expensive, but they already have almost everything included in the main kit.
What's the verdict on Trumpeter/HobbyBoss kits?
>>5306948
I have an hobby boss T-34 in 1:48. very cheap and crazy details as well as foto etched parts.
>>5306955
My father made on of those, only thing I dislike about it is the link-and-length tracks.
>>5305826
remove the enamel using enamel thinners?
>>5306948
Good kits
>>5307039
I have a Komintern artillery tractor and that hungarian paperpanzer coming in the post.
>>5307041
>hungarian paperpanzer
Wat
>>5306948
Trumpeter kits are horrribly overrated and overpriced. They are often underdetailed compared to Dragon or Tamiya and contain major accuracy errors.
>>5307042
the 44M TAS
>>5307043
I paid about £20 for both of them on Ebay. They both have indie links which I like.
>>5307044
just to clarify that is £20 each
I think the TAS was £19.99 and the tractor £16.99
>>5307044
>indie
>£
>shiftfag
Go post on Britmodeller or IntScaleModeller. They cater to your kind.
>>5307043
Are you literally retarded?
Meng, Tamiya, Takom.... kits are overpriced. Trumpeter's one of the only few companies whose kits are NOT overpriced.
>>5307046
your shitposting is the reason these threads are dying
>>5307057
>shiftfag shitposts again
>>5307046
hurr durr people from other countries don't exist
>>5307051
>responds to legit critism by calling the poster "literally retarded"
And this is why we've already lost our 3 biggest contributors
>>5307059
what's the matter, no-one replying to your shitty scale model thread :(
all this samefagging is getting annoying
>>5307061
>legit criticism
>Trumpeter kits are underdetailed compared to Tamiya
Tamiya kits are overpriced and underdetailed. They don't even have seperate grab handles like Takom or Meng kits
>>5307061
you can go join them on leddit
>>5307067
Because they are aimed more towards beginners.
>>5307057
I have to agree, it seems to be just this one person who does nothing but shitpost and call people shiftfag.
>>5307088
But they sure don't price them like they're aimed at beginners.
>>5307097
it's a fact newbies to the hobby will pay stupid prices for crap kits, because they have no idea of what prices to expect
>>5307097
Afaik old(er) 1/35 Tamiya tank kits are very cheap. Due to their age they lack detail, but are very beginner friendly. Their 1/48 military range (also nice beginner builds) is around 15-25€/kit, which is also very reasonable.
Since i don't build planes i have no idea about their prices or the quality of tamiya planes, but i saw a Japanese Zero fighter in 1/48 for 11€ a while ago. Almost bought it, but then again, i have no idea how its price or quality is compared to other manufacturers.
I coated everything with a white primer.
>>5307176
>>5307178
But the skirts lacking some details.
>>5307194
I would beat it up a bit, those were thin metal
>>5306948
Older trumpeter kits sucks butt, especially their armor. Their newer Soviet-era armor are awesome though. Anyone who says otherwise has never built one.
Hobby boss is a hit or miss. Their Super Pershing and ISU-152s are good, but their Leopard series are not as good.
>>5307304
Trumpeter are the ones who have shit-tier photos of models on the boxes of their 72nd series, right?
That said their 35th scale models are pretty nice.
>>5307196
Any actual photos of shurtzen "beaten up a little?"
>>5307307
nah but it looks cool
>>5307309
>but it looks cool
Mein negger.
>>5307325
While accuracy is something to strive for, if something looks hecka neat don't worry about being 100% accurate
>>5307334
I was going to reply with a comment about Shurzen may be thin sheets of metal, but any force that would bent that metal would only rip the shurzen off its hooks and fall away, since they're not bolted on.
But you're right, a (slightly) bent shurtzen does give a model a little more character, even if its a tad unrealistic.
>>5307194
remove some of them or left few without camo(plain dunkelgelb or that rusty red primer if you are doing late war)
If anyone has any ideas how to download this as a .pdf from google play books, I'll upload and share it with you guys.
I cannot figure out how to do it though, it's DRM protected and unlike other books I've bought through google play, it won't even let me download it as a .pdf to transfer to other devices, I can only view it through the app or on a browser. Still, beats paying the $80 that a physical copy costs (I only paid $14 on google play).
>>5307093
It is, I don't know who this faggot is, but I really wish the mods would just perma-ban him.
>>5307554
forgot my image
I need some advice on painting.
Im going to do my first ever paint job on plastic figures. And I have to admit that Im scared of fucking it up big time.
So what brush and paint is best for plastic figures for small details? All other advice on painting is very welcome.
>>5307680
I don't think you're going to get a warm welcome here, so I'll just be the one to help you. Normally scale-model threads are for more traditional models and the place you'd be better in is the Gunpla thread. That's neither here nor there however.
To paint small details, any brush is fine, small obviously, I would recommend sable over synthetic. You can get them at Michael's or a hobby store. If money is no factor, Games Workshops stuff is the ideal stuff. As far as painting your model, stick with acrylic. The reason you do this is because the thinner material is just alcohol, so you do not risk making your plastic brittle. Fear nor, if you mess up, you can removed it with warm water and dish soap or a q-tip with a little thinner. You'll be able to try over and over in this way should it not turn out the way you like. With paints, buy something thin, like Tamiya, and buy either alcohol or branded thinner, mix it to a milk-like consistency. In order to get a smooth, vibrant finish, you'll want to apply in coats. 2 coats will do but the more you do the better the color will be, just thin the paint out accordingly. When you're finished, use a clear acrylic (matte or gloss) to help keep the paint from chipping in the future.
It's nothing to worry about, you can't break anything with Acrylic. Have fun and don't get discouraged.
Yo. Do you think it's possible to make my own filters? I have enamel paints and thinner, but I don't want to fuck my model up. I want to buy some ready-mixed ones but they're hecka overpriced.
>>5307680
I would say a very fine brush like 5/0. For the paint you should use acrylic paint because they are very easy to thin and safe for your polymers figures. Just take some old stuff or junk were you test what you trying to achive.
>>5307726
Thanks, man. Very detailed.
Ye, Im not a regular on /toy/ so this thread seemed like the go to for paint jobs at first glance.
>>5305826
I think the wooden floor needs another go. What technique are you using to make the woodgrain?
>>5307772
I did a thin gloss coat over everything then I brushed on some burnt sienna oil paint pretty thinly.
>>5308306
What I would recommend is adding burnt sienna without thinning it at all, just add a dab of linseed oil to help you move it around.
You then want to use a piece of sponge or stiff bristle brush or fan brush to move the grain around.
I know it's 1/72nd, but it'll help with your P-51 if you decide to leave the cockpit floor without the black anti skid material :)
>>5307734
anyone?
>>5307734
I believe so. I don't put filters on my models. Iirc it's about 90% thinner to 10% paint for a filter.
>tfw you can make wave crests by mashing toilet paper with white glue
that's why I love this hobby
>>5309688
I saw a blog post about someone building a viking longboat complete with stormy sea base. Want me to link it?
I finally finished the Aston Martin DBR9. It only took me 5-6 months or so!
Obviously, a lot of that was just procrastinating, sitting there looking at it and only doing like tiny little bits at a time. I did really enjoy it though and I didn't want to rush any part of it. But I think if you saw how little I did in each little session and how slow I went you would want to punch me in the face.
It is the first pure model like this that I've done and it's far from perfect. I only used the stuff that came with the starter kit apart from a few little obvious extras like tooth picks, cotton buds, craft knife and tweezers etc. But essentially it's all hand painted with the water based acrylics and the size 0 and 4 paint brushes that came with the kit. While reading these threads throughout the build I learned a lot more advanced techniques and ways of improving each little bit I was doing but they would all have involved me buying extra stuff and investing more and more into the hobby and I didn't want to do that just yet. I just wanted to stick with the basic set and see what I could do.
If I did do another kit though the first thing I would invest in is some proper modelers masking and fine line tape. Man, that would have saved me some grief. I am also thinking of getting some of that decal fix as I do still have some issues with a couple of loose decals.
Overall I'm happy with it though and like I said, I really did enjoy making it all.
I do also have a few extra questions to ask about how to maybe do some extra finishing work. I will probably leave it as it is though, just interested in what else you might do at this point. I don't mean weathering particularly, just more thinking in terms of protection.
I actually did look at someone elses build that they had gone through all the different steps and the things that he did while building it and realised how much extra you really can put into these things. Some of the tips I followed, some I left as I would have had to get more tools and materials to achieve it. It's almost as if the model just provides the framework for you to really go to work on it and make it your own. It was very insightful. Reading these threads and all the different methods and techniques and skills and tasks that go into making these sorts of things appeal to me a lot and I guess to everyone that does this sort of stuff. It was interesting.
>>5307734
Of course, you can use oil paints to do them, just select the colors that will complement the main scheme of your model and add little drops of oil paint with a fine brush all around the model, then blend it it with a flat brush and odorless turpentine, of course, after sealing the model with Future or another acrylic gloss cote and allowing it to cure.
>>5310955
Well, that's a good technique, but not really filtering. Look up 'oil fading', that's what you mean.
I did some kind of filter on my Tiger II, although it can't really be seen on photos. I mixed a dab of oil paint with lotsa thinner and applied it with a flat brush. I did so only on the winter camo, alternating between sienna and dark blue filter, to create a 'cold' and partly 'dirty' feel, so that the snow camo isn't monotone.
>>5311152
Huh, weird, I guess it changes between aircraft and armor or we use it differently. To us, the oil dot technique is a filtering technique.
I stand corrected if it's not the case.
I have a question guys, hope you can help me out!
Just used some clear gloss spray on the windshield etc of an aoshima FC3S kit, but the finish wasn't quite as good since the spray is quite old, haven't been used in awhile. Any ideas what I can use to wipe it off without ruining/melting the plastic? It's just a standard plastic kit not resin or anything, thanks in advance!
pic related
>>5311578
IPA ? if its acrylic spray it will defiantly take it off.
>>5311582
It is an acrylic spray, I was reading the guide in OP and it recommended a window cleaner or some other ammonia solution but it was for a varnish finish which I guess is too strong for this...I shall try the IPA then! There is no specific type to use right?
>>5311589
I don't think there is different types is there?
only percentage of strength but that wont matter.
>>5311621
okay! thanks a lot man
>>5311589
Windex or pledge window cleaner has the necessary ammonia to strip acrylic finishes.
>>5311578
If it's from a spray can, it will be an enamel or a lacquer, not an acrylic. Enamel can be stripped using mineral spirits, oven cleaner, purple power, etc. Lacquer will be much harder to strip.
>>5311578
If acrylic: Ammonia based Windex. Will take it off without any adverse effects on the plastic
If enamel or lacquer: GG
(both solvent types will also dissolve plastic, ruining your clear piece forever)
>>5294431
Just started a new model I recently bought - Trumpeter's BMP-2.
I still consider myself a novice, and have encountered for the first time photo-etched parts...after 5 minutes I can say with certainty that I hate them.
Any tips/tricks? What do you guys use to cut tiny little PE pieces off of their sprues? Is there any way to make gluing them less of a bitch?
I will update my progress with pics as I go - feel free to call me shit or give helpful advice.
>>5312102
use a sharp bladed knife or specialised thin blade nippers to cut them off.
use a cutting board
thin, penetrating super glue works if you pre-position the parts and flow it into the gaps. Thick, slow acting super glue also works to help with post placement positioning. The stuff in the middle is just messy.
you can also solder large photo etch pieces together.
>>5312102
Get a side cutter designed for electronics.
Yours look like you could beat someone to death with it.
so guys, what's the best king tiger in 1/72? dragon?
Anyone get these 1/12 Hasegawa kits? What's this circle thing supposed to be? A candle?
>>5312577
There's 4 circle things.
wow. remember I posted the badger stynylrez primer that was too thick and kept clogging my airbrush?
Well I sent it back, got a reply saying they didn't find a problem with it, and they refunded me.
So I go to buy an airbrush, they cancel my order, delete my account and said they don't want to deal with me again.
''Hi
Due to past experience and cost incurred to ourselves,
We no longer wish to deal with you,
Without predigest We have sent a full Refund via Pay Pal for your present Order and will be removing your account.
Best Regards
Steve
Barwell Bodyworks
I believe they meant to say prejudice
>>5312599
Dickheads.
>>5312599
WOW
Way to run a business
>that dude charged us 50 bucks in shipping fees
>lets not sell him anything
>that'll teach him
>>5312584
The one next to the menu holder. There are two glasses, and the one with the angled mouth is probably a candle, but what's the donut looking one supposed to be?
>>5312706
>yes, I was very courteous in the emails because obviously I wanted to buy an airbrush.
what kind of fucker gloats he got a refund anyway?
>Working on the Airfix Fw190 F-8
>Was going to get it ready for painting the camo
>But can't because GF wants to have sex
Fuck this gay earth
>>5312824
wow what a hard life you have
>>5312824
>>5312877
Just finishing a few more inf squads and then their primed and painted - have some scenery to show yall inthe coming months
>>5312102
Xuron Photo Etch scissors and a Tamiya diamond file.
http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-Professional-Photo-Scissor-XUR9180ET/dp/B003XXU3GM
>>5312706
Where did you order/not order? Its probably unlikely but i don't want to order there by mistake.
I'm sure there are plenty of onlineshops that will take your money and sell you an airbrush.
>>5312887
>a Tamiya diamond file.
A file that costs 5 times the money a non-tamiya diamond file would cost?
>>5312893
It doesn't cost 5 times more and it is worth every penny when working with photo etch.
http://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-74066-Diamond-Photo-Etched/dp/B000E7ONQQ
>>5312599
I told you it's crap.
>>5312882
So what are you doing with all these?
>>5312888
barbell bodyworks, they run
http://www.badger-airbrush.co.uk/
only an issue if youre in the uk.
shitter tho cos they do have the best prices.
>>5312899
Whats crap anon, everything badger? or that specific primer you know is crap from your own experience?
>>5312972
specifically the Kublewagen.
>>5312979
Primary is to complete the scenery ive started and lay them out in a diorama /company of heroes-esk fassion with a scene by scenetimeline of normandy airdrops battle for britaintank battles and easter eggs of command and high offocers with hitler goong from west to east and germansys fall agains russia so its goong to be a god like diorama somethi gbeen working on for a longtime - second use is im a huge 40k guy so flames of war because i was toldyou can just grab a codez and most if not all units convert over and areapproliate scale size
Thats just one shelf of just the wermacht i have britts andstartedmy russias
>>5313056
why does the driver have no legs?
>>5312599
Something tells me there's more to this story that you let on.
>Due to past experience
So how many times did you whine and return stuff because you're too much of a child to work out shit on your own?
>>5313068
For somereaso the schrimwagon driver came with nomethat kit is nearly 40 years old
>>5313097
I would totally be of the same viewpoint when getting only one side of a story,
but yea that's all I bought from them.
We only exchanged 8 emails, I just wanted to know if it was error on my part or faulty product.
He said ''we have never had a complaint''
I asked for contact details and offered to pay to send it to them.
He said he couldn't find a problem
I didn't even ask for a refund, but wasn't going to not accept it since I was without product.
Last message was the refund email.
That brief contact was the only past experience I've ever had with them.
Do they blacklist everyone who has a problem with something they sell?
>>5312684
The brown one is a buzzer and the angled one is a receipt holder. Both are things commonly seen in casual Japanese restaurants.
I'm not sure if you guys could help, but whatever. I wanted to try and kitbash some space ship models together for a short film or something. Are there any good tutorials or specific types of models I should use?
>>5313182
Ah, thanks. I might have guessed buzzer eventually, but I never would have guessed the other one was a receipt holder. I would have sworn it was a candle. One day I'll visit Japan and find things like that out first hand.
>>5312570
bump?
>>5312599
Good work. Have fun getting Badger airbrush parts in Europe now.
>>5314592
i want more of a people experience than frames photos.
>>5314654
Look up reviews.
>>5314654
Fuck off you lazy piece of shit. Always expecting others to do the work for you.
>>5314654
Dont know about dragon, but I have unfinished Revell King Tiger waiting in a box for me to get motivated, I liked the quality and used this article when searching about differences.
http://www.onthewaymodels.com/articles/KingTigerCompare.htm
>>5314667
Stop shitposting pls
>>5314667
Seriously. Even after people said to use Google and look up the kit on Scalemates that guy still bitches. Lazy piece of shit, indeed.
>>5314654
Scalemates has reviews you lazy fuck.
Recently finished Ace BMP-1, now working with ACE BMD-2 in 1/72. Casted a copy of the S-Model's turret, since it's so much better. Will probably have to clone some other parts, the quality of those older Ace kits is pretty shit
>>5315280
Aww, I love Soviet APCs. I hope this looks as good as the one you recently finished.
>>5312895
It isn`t anything other than i could get here for example:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-style-multifunction-1SET-diamond-Files-for-Glass-LX0002/2024350303.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_3_79_78_77_80,searchweb201644_5,searchweb201560_10
Buying tools from hobby companies is always wasted money since its nothing else than standard tools with fance brand logo on them.
>>5313042
Just so you know: Flames of war is intended to be played with 1/100 vehicles and its battalion based, so you will need tons of vehicles and soldiers and, if you really want to use 1/35, you will need a really huuuuge table. (Not to mention that you won't find anyone to play against, because nobody plays FoW in 1/35.)
You could look into Bolt Action though, that is a platoon based game (intended to be played with miniatures around 1/48, so again: good luck finding one playing it in 1/35), but you won't need as much units on the table so it might work a little bit better in 1/35.
>>5314268
Its not like you can't buy them in any bigger scale modelling/hobby onlineshop?
>>5314654
because why not:
Italeri 1/72 king tiger (i had the kit, but sold it again) is decent quality for its age, but it looked like a really old molding tool so i sold it.
Revell Tiger 2 is decent
Revell Tiger 2 with Porsche turret is a new kit and therefore better quality than the old one BUT in RL all Porsche turret Tiger 2s had Zimmerit. That kit has no Zimmerit so you need to do it yourself. But maybe you dont care about such things, then its ok
Dragon 1/72 is to expensive for my taste. Quality is Dragon though.
>>5314757
>reading through that link
>The new King Tiger from Revell AG. is almost everything we would expect from one of today's finest kit manufacturers.
>Revell
>one of today's finest kit manufacturers
Topkek
>>5316092
too bad there are only two companies currently making modern soviet and russian stuff in 1/72: ACE and S-Model. I hope either for Toxso or Zvezda to fill the gap asap. Ace has improved the quality of the kits significantly by using 3D designed and printed masters, just look at their new BTR series - pic very related. I hope that some day they decide to reissue some of the older kits like MT-LB/BMP/BMD
>>5316296
There's a bounty of vehicles in 1/35 scale. You should consider them.
>>5316461
If he already has comitted to 1/72 then he probably won't change his scale.
>>5316146
I actually host 40k apoc. games out of my basement i was a big fan of HO odel trains as a kid and have a ton of space set aside for my new layout. In addition ive been doingthis for years please dont take 2 puctures off my german shelf as the whole collection i haveover 200 assorted units of germans ruskies and bongs in addition to this years christmas present to myself 500 to spend on my new units and scenery again primary is self satisfaction of finally completing this and setting it up witha story to tell
>>5316146
I do appreciate the direction though ill be sure to do a little more homework when i finally decide to choose a codex
>>5316761
please stop shitposting about 72nd scale.
>>5317032
Fuck off shiftfag. He didn't say anything bad about 72 scale. Learn to read. Fuck off to tumblr if you get triggered by reading something you don't like. Or better yet, just jump in front of one of those British trains.
>>5317040
>samefagging
>>5317044
>one post
>samefagging
>>5317048
nice try shiftfag
>>5317051
>shiftfagging
>>5317055
>trying to hide the fact you are the shiftfag
You're not fooling anyone.
>>5317069
stfu shiftfag >:(
>>5317074
>http://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-style-multifunction-1SET-diamond-Files-for-Glass-LX0002/2024350303.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_3_79_78_77_80,searchweb201644_5,searchweb201560_10
>>5317069
>>5317058
>>5317055
>>5317051
>>5317048
>>5317044
>>5317040
>>5317032
And this right here is why no one posts anything good in these threads anymore. Congratulations cancerous people, I guess you got what you wanted.
>>5317279
>not http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2015-alibaba-express-sex-toys-animal-dildos-real-feeling-warm-new-style-horse-dildo/32391550087.html?spm=2114.01020208.3.44.R7DQ2V&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_7_79_78_77_80,searchweb201644_0,searchweb201560_1
I wish mods would ban these faggots
Aww, yis!
>>5318138
Git hype
>>5318142
If they don't do the tracks in that retarded semi-bendable plastic, this will be the best 72nd scale T-34/85 kit.
Update on my Panther D.
I have done some preshading with a Panzergrau color on the edges and added a basic layer of Dunkelgeld on it.
>>5318162
Then I added a small amount of little more brighter Dunkelgeld on some areas.
>>5318165
The light is a little bit shitty today so the colors on the pics doesnt look that good.
>>5318143
>best 1/72 T-34/85
>what is Dragon
>>5318168
Dragon 72nd scale models are overpriced as fuck. The Zvezda willl be highly affordable.
>>5318138
>mfw snap fit
If only Zvezda would make more actual 1/72 kits like the GOAT T-90A they recently put out
>>5318473
They're decent detail, and certain parts need to be glued.
What's the best brand for ww2 props if you've never made a model before, *unless games like 40k count*.
Is there a brand that is cheap in cost to practice with?
>>5318581
If you want a cheap kit in case you fuck up. Go with Revell. It will require some seam work and dry fitting, but can't go wrong with the price.
If you want an easy to build kit with little amounts of dryfitting and seamwork, go with tamiya, there are some kits you can find for cheap as they are oldish, but still great.
>>5318603
You need to disconnect from "MUH ARMOR" as he is talking about WW2 Prop aircraft.
Revell is good with aircraft models, specially for beginners.
>>5318581
Airfix, Revell or Academy
Academy has shitty decals though.
>>5318581
Be warned. Prop planes are hard. I've built Warhammer models before and planes are a far cry form them- I always found that biplanes are more suited to someone with experience in building planes. Perhaps consider making some spitfires or 109's as practice.
