>Citadel Painting Guides:
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>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
https://mega.co.nz/#F!OgpwzAKS!a5eVE6pOagTTOWEr5tEaEQ
>Painting Videos only
https://mega.co.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA
Post stuff. Do it.
Paintin' mah wizzzzaaarrrrdddddd
Not for a game or anything, just for display. So, I'm trying my bestest.
Repost from last thread
-So I'm doing some bad moonz orks, and I want to know, for the layer yellow color, should I use Yeirl Yellow and then highlight with flash-gits yellow, or just do Flash Gits.
I painted an XWM T-70 X-Wing in Poe Dameron's colors.
>>44452576
Averland Sunset with Lamenters Yellow Gaze
>>44452602
>>44452608
Don't currently have averland Sunset unfourtunatly
>>44452608
>>44452775
forgot a part:
Since I don't have Averland Sunset, Should I use another yellow?
More progress. Need to finish base and 3 more riders
C&c?
Should I do a snow base?
Here's the back
How does one paint white without clogging all the details and ruining the model?
>>44453032
something something lots of thin layers.
also priming white/grey makes it easier
>>44453032
Thin layers also start with a light brown or a off white.
>>44452898
a snow base would be pretty nonsensical with a bunch of jungle-themed creatures. but its your mini
>>44453032
airbrush or use airbrush white paint, or you can use medium to thin normal white paint (effort) and do a gazillion layers
>>44452898
Damn you work fast man, I never have any motivation to paint shit when I get off work.
I have to paint up the 4 henchmen for a command squad but haven't played in ages. What do people get on these fuckers? I was thinking the Vox, since it seems to assist in issuing orders, and then the rest would have grenade launchers. I assume a commanding unit like this would be staying back, so the vox and the cheap nade launchers seem like a way to get decent performance without spending lots of points on superfluous equipment.
>>44453032
To add on to this im having the opposite problem. You can always see through the white no matter how many layers I do.
Hate reposting but..
>2k of Blood Angels
>still in plastic
>live near Seattle so it's PP all the way
>no opponents to play
>no motivation to paint them
Should I just sell these and keep a Sanguinary Guard or Tactical box for 'fun'?
>>44453577
-White spray
-Ghost Grey from Vallejo
-Highlights in white
>>44453407
I got the week off for new year's so I'm been having fun
>>44453674
Maybe you should consider tabletop gaming?
With that kind of stuff, you can simply buy a box and play with your friends.
>>44453032
OK so these World Eaters were done like this:
1- airbrush basecoat black
2- airbrush 45degree angle Grey
3- airbrush top down with a smooth coat of white and then the same on any raised surfaces as you look at the model straight on.
4- wash recesses, do details and then Highlight all raised areas and clean up with the same airbrush thinned white paint.
>>44453032
I use two to three coats of Vallejo Model Air white and don't paint on pure black.
>>44452898
>Dwarf Fortress while painting.
Mah nigga!
Good paintjob BTW.
>>44454043
>airbrush
He probably wouldn't be asking that specific question if he had an airbrush.
>>44454332
if that is the case then light brown or grey and lots of THIN coats of Vallejo Air white then
>>44454513
What does brown base do? Warmer white?
Has anybody painted their Alpha Legion army with that newfangled gritty looking teal color? It looks amazing and I'm not sure where to find a guide for it. Preferably without airbrushes...goddamn I feel like a scrub for not having one.
I got myself a Master airbrush the other day, but whenever I try to screw the tip on the o-ring keeps lsipping, and one of the o-rings below it snapped. How do I slip these things back on? Do the o-ring's really matter?
What are some good sources of bits to make things extra chaosy? I have a Leman Russ which I want to use for a Heretics and Renegades army, but it looks too clean and doesn't have enough impaled heads in its current state.
Any opinions? I am trying to paint my Necron force. So far I know I will be using Warplock Bronze and I have a gold to use but I am unsure how I should do the "skin"
They are all primed with platemail
>>44455207
Bronze, gold and bloodletter should be cool.
>>44452870
Based with light brown, like zandri dust(or ushabti bone)then apply yriel yellow.
>>44455397
What should I do with my Flash Gitz yellow? Highlight? Or is it too close to Yriel.
Is there any good tips on recess washing? I had to do it for white power armor and my god it sucked to do
>>44456517
Load less wash on the brush and wipe off any extra if you make a mistake
>>44452439
Just got a bunch of historicals for chrimbus (warlord phalangites, macedonian royal guard, and spartan hoplites, total 104 minis) and I'm gonna have to paint a *lot* of bronze for all the armour, so my question to you /wip/ is this:
to verdigris or not to verdigris?
I'm asking /hwg/ on the historicity of it, but from a purely aesthetic perspective, is it particularly difficult to get a verdigris effect that doesn't look over the top (some corrosion might happen on campaign but they shouldn't look as though their arms and armour were just excavated from a shipwreck)?
I know GW makes a technical for this but I haven't yet looked into how it turns out...
>>44456517
Use a very small detail brush, don't load the brush with lots of wash, have something to wipe the wash immediately away if it spills somewhere else than the recesses. Have steady hands and do it slowly and patiently.
>>44456571
I dont know why, but when I tried having less wash on the brush it kind of went on like normal paint, and dried too quickly to just pick it back up.
Then again, washes have never really agreed with me.
>>44456517
There's no super fast, easy way to do a pin wash. The only easy ones are the all-over wash, which can also be done by dipping.
Here are your options:
1. Take your time and use a very sharp brush to carefully put the wash in the cracks.
2. Slather that shit on it, and when it dries, go back over and repaint ALLLLL those surfaces that got wash on them, leaving only the wash in the cracks.
3. Spray the entire model with gloss varnish. Then slather on some thinned wash, or an oil wash. The gloss prevents the wash from sticking and drying on the surface and will run straight into the cracks. Clean up any mess with some alcohol on a cotton swab (or mineral spirits/turpentine if you used oil), then matte or satin varnish to kill the gloss shine.
If it's possible, you might want to choose a slightly lighter color, then just do an all over wash, which will darken the color to the exact color you want, while also putting wash in the cracks.
So /tg/, I just got back into war gaming and painting after five years of being out of it. How'd I do on the DZC starter set?
I'm fairly happy with the Scourge (the black and green guys), but the UCM (tan and grey) aren't sitting well with me. I'm fairly sure it's something simple like THIN YOUR PAINTS (which I tried to do, but probably did wrong or not enough of), but they just seem really muddy to me, far more so than what I was going for.
Oh, and do keep in mind that these are 10mm scale, the tanks are about the size of a thumb.
>>44456645
I'd also like to note that I was not a very good painted five years ago when I last did paint, either.
camo done
I got a Cygnar Stormwall for Christmas and I'm having several issues trying to put it together. One leg has major issues with a shift during casting.
Then the pistons on the hips aren't long enough to actually reach the two connection points and the arm cuffs aren't flush so either need to fill with a ton of green stuff or try cut off a bunch.
I like privateer's game and their models but this one seems pretty poorly designed as looking at people blogs about assembling them and everyone seems to have the issue with the pistons.
>>44454631
>I got myself a Master airbrush the other day, but whenever I try to screw the tip on the o-ring keeps lsipping, and one of the o-rings below it snapped. How do I slip these things back on? Do the o-ring's really matter?
O-rings make the seal that keep the air from leaking out (you're working above atmospheric pressure, so it will leak).
Without them it probably can't maintain pressure very well. Might want to look into some replacements.
Most airbrushes have spares available, so I suggest ordering a few.
As for the slipping o-rings, are those in the right spot, or right size? Because those should be snug as hell in most airbrushes.
>>44454991
There's some great Renegade brass etch stuff available from FW.
http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/en-NL/Etched-Brass-Renegade-Militia-Symbols
And I think there are Chaos Star stencils available for airbrush too.
http://thecombatcompany.com/hobby/airbrushes-and-compressors/stencils/stencil-micro-chaos-stars/
http://www.brush4hire.com/product/chaos-stencil-set/
are both pretty good examples (I personally like the look of the Combat Company ones best).
>>44454991
Found those Combat Company Stencils much cheaper:
http://www.fallouthobbies.com/Stencils
has them for $9 rather than $17, makes quite a difference.
>>44459475
full sized ones are $13 here too.
So, my Nugle Chaos lord green-stuff is mostly done, just waiting for the last bits to cure. The right arm, the one holding the spear, isn't attached yet so I can paint it easier. Base is done though.
Any C&C is appreciated
>>44459979
I also added a head to my Nurgle cultist leader. I will add the rest of the "scarf" around his neck after its cured.
>>44459979
Sweet base, nice greenstuffing
>>44460010
Been putting together some Orlocks. Pictured are two heavies and a leader.
>>44460056
Crap, didn't mean to reply.
>>44449563
Citadel brush on is dog shit tier brush on primer, dump and get vallejo instead. Citadel's clogs up and barely sticks to the models. You can also rub it together with 5 layers of carefully applied paint right off any metal models.
>>44451941
Playing Blood Angels is pure masturbation. They aren't good on the field anyway, just enjoy painting them and make a giant diorama. Listen to their audio books and read their lore, you'll love them soon enough.
>>44453495
usually I just give them a vox and put everyone in a chimera.
if you have spare points give them a special weapon or two but it is not necessary since you shouldn't even be in line of sight for anything that might harm you
I am struggling to make an urban camo for my imperial guard.
How should I paint the armor and the vest? tried with grey+blue parts and white/black dots but I am not really sure since it doesn't work very well with black armor
>>44453495
Son, do you even imperium? If anything, you need MORE superfluous cool looking archaic equipment with no discernible use in combat.
>commander dipshit over on the left needs a pimp cane and a pointing arm, with some serfs around him carrying his banner, his rifle
>That kneeling guy is screaming for either some sort of launching tube or a scope with a map on his knees or nice and plain, one of those skiitari long rifles.
>tall and ugly could be your company's veteran drill sergeant and personal guard to the commander. Kit him out with various exotic knives, pistols and other stuff like his own personal servo skull scanner
>far right should be your comms officer with a vox pack, but with a bionic arm or something to mark him out as a combat veteran
As for wsiwyg, just print out a list of what you're using before the game and hand it to your opponent so he can't make excuses about not knowing what you have.
>>44460526
years of guard playing and I still suck at customizing the soldiers
>>44460601
What do you mean? All you have to do add a tiny detail to each model to give them a bit of character.
>>44460640
I do but then think "heh, could have done better"
>>44460645
Well you gotta look at them all together.
If you go an entire army with guys that have that little extra you gotta whole lot of extra.
>>44459985
>"Git off mah lawn, ya darn kids!"
Finished my first set of lava bases.
Starts on the left-most bases with a thin coat of martian ironearth getting progressively thicker.
I like them all except the 2 on the right end, I think it shows too much lava.
What do you guys think?
>>44460945
looks especially good with minis
any advice on how to avoid the atrocious texture that I get on the minis from white spray primer?
I shook the can for like 2 mins before use and sprayed from a distance but still got that horrible effect. It's not as bad in person but still not great.
These are my first minis.
>>44460988
forgot pic
>>44460997
Jesus fucking Christ.
Was it too humid/ dry or too cold when you primed? I had a result like this once when it was hot as balls outside.
>>44461022
I did it in my apartment at normal room temp. (Its way too cold outside)
I used a cardboard box with a vacum cleaner hose punched through the back as a makeshift fume hood.
The air wasn't moving through the box that fast but maybe it had an effect?
>>44460997
dude watch out with the primer it looks really grainy
Has anyone had experience with the Citadel Air range, aside from the obvious issue of the god-awful pots (I'll probably put them in dropper bottles)? I'm thinking about picking up a pot of Mephiston Red and Evil Sunz Scarlet for painting some Tau.
>>44460997
Corax white is the absolute worst primer I've ever used, I purely stick to grey if I want to paint white now. I ended up having to give an entire tactical squad to a friend because that primer fucked up so badly.
>>44461105
Why didn't you just strip them?
>>44461163
Honestly, because I'm lazy. It's just something I don't enjoy doing, if it were a more expensive model I'd have done it but it was like a £15 tactical squad.
>>44461058
>>44461105
Yeah I'm definitely not going to use it again.
On the upside I can turn the grain into ash/soot buildup, it is a volcanic themed army after all.
How would I go about re-creating this particular color? it looks like a brown-green color, but I'm not sure on how to copy it.
>>44461238
Washes, lots of washes.
>>44461238
I think Vallejo have a colour called 'Plague Brown' that is pretty much exactly this, might need an olive-y green base as a basecolour though.
Gave a Maggoth Lord wings to use it as a King on Chimera for Kings of War.
>>44460945
You didn't put on enough yellow and white if you were trying to emulate duncan's tutorial is what I think, but it looks like cooling lava now which is good too
It doesn't really make sense to walk on fresh lava anyway
>>44460997
Looks like you spraying in too low humidity (so either very hot or very cold weather). The paint was basically drying on the way to the model, that's where the graininess comes from.
>>44452439
First of 3 Skorcha buggies.
This'll be "Stunty" a short squat model, the second will be "Skinny" a pipework thing a Venator and the third'll be "Skraps" made from.. scraps so I've no idea about the end result.
>>44460988
Dust can also be a cause of it.
>>44460453
Camo never includes straight black or there is very little of it, black is an unnatural color and your eyes are drawn to it. Try a different color armour
>>44461511
fuck this is a good idea.
what are the colors you would see the most in an urban environment other than grey?
>>44461540
Off-white/concrete, faded black/dark blue, pale brown/khaki.
Rest is up to the urban area really,
Maybe look photos of industrial areas and see what's common.
>>44461335
That actually looks really cool. If I do a Nurgle force, I'm tempted to steal this idea for use as a Daemon Prince.
Ordered Night Raptors for the Coils RoW. Thinking of using Nemesis Force Spear hafts and Chaos Raptor chainsword blades to use as Chainglaives. Also, paint them like Night Lords, or like my Alpha Legion?
doing a base for my stonehorn, for now, I have some cork piece for small rocks, skulls, 1-2 gnoblars, maybe a spider or a rat. What can I add? It will be a snow base
>>44460453
Son, you paint them the Cadian way. Glory to the 122nd!
>>44461776
>cadian
I fucking hate the cadian bobblehead
only thing good from that planet is our greatest general creed
>>44460056
The guy in the middle.
>First one to talk gets to stay on my aircraft
>>44461803
thats a big gun
Hey /wip/, would you guys know any budget alternatives to GW zombies? I've checked kings of war, but i was wondering if there was anything cheaper avaliable to me
>>44461921
Kings of war/Mantic is by far not only the cheapest but also best plastic kit for zombies.
Their big horde deal is even better value for money.
If you really absolutely need dirt as cheap stuff I'd have a look at gaming pieces from the Zombies! boardgame and such. These will be even cheaper, but also not nearly as good in terms of quality. You can still paint those things and convert or kitbash them though.
>>44461967
Thanks man, i'll just stick with the mantic hordes then. i'm in Australia, so it isn't easy to get mass GW products
Working on Turrets for my DARKANGELS
>Will upload a video to my Youtube channelonce finished
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDU-NGRpPDdO3XKF37oDB_g
>>44462180
dat skull
>>44461783
>Not Kasrkins
>>44461058
>dude watch out with the primer it looks really grainy
Indeed!
>>44462215
Molds.....you can make anything
>check this video were i talk about how its done
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f9hfGlVs2CA&index=21&list=PLy55WVLwDMPlyr7qFDehv8aCI9wnuDvZd
>>44462306
oh I meant the big one on the scenery. looks kinda funny to me.
Judgemental skull +1 etc
>>44462339
thats part of the original kit
>>44461540
As long as you break up the black it should be fine. Depending on areas you could even sneak in dull red and browns. Make sure they're ate no recognizable shapes on the camp either, humans look for patterns and shapes they know.
>>44462479
Forgot my picture to go with that
>>44461093
I used a flesh-tone and it came out great. Excellent coverage and I think I thinned it 1:1. Lot easier than using army painter.
What magnets do you use for CSM and SM arms? 3mmx2mm?
I'm looking for the optimal ease of attaching but with the optimal compromise for ease of removing with the added benefit of not breaking while sitting on the bits.
Welp
Today, i finished my white spray from Citadel, so i tried a new one, from Army Painter.
As you can see on the picture, the paint has a strange texture... It's ok for a dog but now, i'm afraid to prime my spase mareens with that shit. Do you think there's a problem with the paint or the spray? Or maybe there's a secret technic with Army painter's sprays?
>>44462787
I too want minis propped up by their dicks one day, if only I could muster the courage
>>44461479
Right or left-hand drive?
Could anybody suggest some cheap monopose fantasy/medieval figures? Need some painting practice so might as well use something I can use in Frostgrave or RPG's.
>>44462892
Reaper Bones
>>44462881
Well, they are BRITISH hooligans
>>44462787
See, I have the problem the other way round. maybe something to do with shaking the can?
>>44462787
Gotta say, I can't tell the difference.
>>44462787
>ou can see on the picture, the paint has a strange texture... It's ok for a dog but now, i'm afraid to prime my spase mareens with that shit. Do you think there's a problem with the paint or the spray? Or maybe there's a secret technic
I never had any issues like that with Army Painter spray.
It does look like the early beginnings of overspray a little though. You know, before the paint is thick enough for drops to build.
I'm always very careful when I use spraycans though. I usually do three or four seperate thin coats instead of one thick application from all directions.
You could try again on some sprue and test if this can be reproduced or avoided reliably.
Btw what do you think about the DogZ? Been thinking about getting some myself since I was looking for some nice Zombie dogs, but they are comparably pricey.
>>44452576
this shit dont work, yriel yellow is shit and flash gitz yellow is even worse. I tried the thing you do as well when I started painting.
Look at the GW video from duncan painting an gorkanaut. Shit is easy and looks pretty good.
>>44461238
A favorite of mine. The recipe is on the bottom of the article.
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/222864.page
>>44457475
looks incredibly detailed bro
>>44460453
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WzWFNOZSjC0
youre very welcome
>>44462972
Yep, i'll shake more next time.
>>44463049
Yup, some tests will be necesary, but i'm also priming really carefully and never had that kind of problem with citadel's paint sprays. I'll keep you informated.
And the dogs are really cool, even with those poles in them. They are really easy to paint and my only concern is the five differents poses for 20 minis.
>>44462663
Bump guys, what magnet size to use for CSM and SM
>>44463194
tried it but it's meh
>>44462663
>I'm looking for the optimal ease of attaching but with the optimal compromise for ease of removing with the added benefit of not breaking while sitting on the bits.
>>44463254
The solution providing most 'ease' would probably be just to paint separate models with different loadouts. I'm serious. I'd only use magnets on big models like walkers and tanks.
That aside I used 3x1mm for my stuff. They were neodym magnets though, so pretty strong.
>>44463254
>Bump guys, what magnet size to use for CSM and SM
Use 3mm for shoulders and arms. If yer crazy like me, you can also use the smaller 2mm magnets for things like head swaps and removable banna poles.
There are larger magnets (6mm, I think) that are perfect for swappable dreadnought arms, too, but I haven't used any of those yet.
>>44463254
2 mm for normal guns that are braced or held close, 3-5 for heavy gear and outstretched arms w/w.o swords ect, shit that you want to stay on and not rotate.
Fergot ta mention... if you line up the poles correctly, you can swap arms between models where this makes sense.
The previous picture (>>44463342) is actually a better example of this.
>>44463340
>>44463342
>>44463360
Outstanding! I'll order 3mm for default my Crusader Squads and 5mm for my Devastators and Commanders and such. Big thanks!
>>44463430
Do yourself a favour and get good sharp drills with as flat heads as possible in the right diameter, it sucks balls having to widen a hole with a blade only to make a conical hole or ruin the rim of a join.
>>44463430
>>44463468
Oh, and make yourself a northstick.
Superglue a small magnet to the end of a pencil or similar, it'll help you ensue the magnets all have the poles the right way.
>>44463468
>>44463493
Good tips, i'll remember to be mindful and not rush it and mess it up, either. Thanks! :D
Done a pair of ooooold style marine drop pods.
fluffy!
>>44461335
that's got a great look to it
>>44456661
these look ok. pretty nice for the scale, really. Both forces could use brighter highlights or a brighter spot color to add some visual interest though
>>44463743
those are fucking awesome. was there a source pic you based em on? very appropriate to the detergent-stick grav-tank era either way
>>44463743
If anything these remind of Battletech drop-ships. Smaller obviously, but quite a similar appearance.
>>44464706
Epic Drop pods
Need some opinions here.
So, going for a red and black scheme for my guard. The catachans have an urban camo scheme identical to the cadian on the left, but I'm considering just doing red uniforms for the cadians, possibly even going with metallic looking armor like the suave mofo in the back for a Roman legion type vibe.
What do you think, urban camo, or plain red?
My whole goblin army is based snow, and I made an Archarnok spider, which is heavily jungle themed.
Should I make the base snow or jungly? It wont match the rest of the army but it'll look best
>>44465649
Red urban camo with metalic / gold shit could be really awesome.
I'm trying to decide if I want to stick with this color scheme for my nids, or change it to a different color scheme.
>>44466055
Other color scheme
>>44465662
As far as I can tell, I'm just about done with my Nurgle Chaos lord. I'm actually quite pleased with how he turned out!
Any comments and critiques are very appreciated.
Also, apologies for the background, I took a bunch, and think these were the best.
So all that's left for me to do is to highlight my Tervigon, and base her (I hate basing oh god). I used Scarlet Red for the carapace and then did a edge highlight in Flat Red but it doesn't quite pop enough. It's visible if you look for it but I think I need to add the thinest of edge highlights onto the existing highlight. Where do I go from 0xFF0000 though? Should I make a pink, straight to white?
>>44466145
Crysis screenshot?
>>44466206
The second set of photos of the lord.
Again, these look just not right in my eyes, but you decide.
>>44466070
Go with this, I've done something similar with my Tyranids and its very pleasing. Just make sure to use a warm color contrast for the base like you have there. Might even consider some more reddish or orange sand.
>>44466206
>>44466236
Awesomely gross, good job Anon!
This thing's shield is great. Even with the hammer the surface is huge and flat
>>44466251
>>44466274
These guys always look great with a bit of converting.
>>44466244
Thanks, I guess I got a lot of stripping to do soon haha!
>>44466244
Oh yeah, what color would you reccommend for the wings/membranes?
>>44466274
>>44466251
holy hell, that's amazing
>>44466282
That's the thing (problem?) with some of GW's models.
They look great with some converting. But without converting, well
Rat Ogres come first in my mind...
Just watching some Grimm and working on an Imperial Fist
>>44466206
>>44466236
how did you get the corroded effect on the blade?
>>44466401
Depends on the tone you want, I would do either black, a bright green or orange.
I personally went with green and have glowy OSL green eyes and vents on mine. A pinkish red could also work.
>>44466733
I'm so jealous. I've tried painting yellow on some snapfit marines I have lying around and I cannot get it right yet. I want to figure this out before I start on my BaC marines. If you don't mind sharing in as much detail as you care to give, what are you doing?
Do you prime white? How do you avoid having splotchy or streaky yellows?
>>44466734
I painted it:
Black undercoat
Balthazar Gold
Wash with Agrax Earthshade
Line-highlight the sides and middle of the blade, and then carefully make specks on the blade, all of this using Boltgun metal.
>>44462215
awwwww shit nigga
thats from one of my modelsr i p fantasy
>>44466869
How do you think a bluish white would look?
>>44466901
thanks a lot
>>44466924
Depends, it might blend into their flesh tones too much.
A first try using the Citadel Armageddon Dust and adding some junk. There's also some regular sugar to add some slightly rougher texture. The idea is to paint it gray after it dries.
Also, is it supposed to be more of a paste than a viscous liquid? As it is, I had to stir it, shaking didn't do nothing.
>>44466950
Would you be able to post examples of your army? I'm having troubles deciding the membrane color and a reference would be nice.
>>44463340
looks like the pile for my death company.
I went insane and decided to magnetize every option for 15 DC......
I also magnetized the dreads to run all three variants, including swapping faceplates.
I'm still not sure what the hell got in to me.
>>44466236
the bruised flesh is magnificent.
>>44466206
>>44466236
Gross!
>>44467081
There's something about having a fully magnetized army that appeals to me. I mean I'm probably never going to use a Power Fist on my PCS Sarge but I guess I like having the option?
>>44467127
aye, we have a local hobby store that sellsall sorts of sizes for 10 bucks per 200.
at that point it is practically a crime NOT to magnetize.
I can't decide what colour to paint the 'loincloth'.
Pls send help.
>>44466888
I actually already had a black under coated marine that I used to test this scheme.
I painted the entire model with Iyanden Darksun foundation paint. Then I washed the model with Reikland flesh and then repainted the flat areas with Iyanden Darksun
>>44467204
the traditional approach is that it is parchment.
If you don't want to go that route, red to match the braid may be cool.
>>44467170
I've been considering magnetising my Orlocks, but magnets are sort of tricky to get a hold of here, and they're my first "army", so perhaps magnets might be biting off more than I can chew.
>>44467256
Then I highlighted with a 50/50 mix of Iyanden Darksun and Flash Gitz yellow followed by a pure flash gitz yellow and then a mix of yellow and white
>>44467268
magnets are dead easy once you get a hang of proper depth setting with a drill.
That said.... is there that much customizability for Necromunda?
>>44466274
I'm not really a fan of the Stormcast, but with that Bretonnian-themed conversion and that quality paintjob, that's going to look outstanding. Awesome work, Anon.
>>44467298
Almost any model can use any weapon, with a small number of limitations, but not that many.
>>44467298
When you earn money, you probably want to upgrade. Your basic autoguns and melee weapons will serve you for some time (especially the shotguns), but eventually you'll get better, cooler stuff. Especially pistols and melee weapons tend to get straight upgrades. Pretty much anyone can use anything, like>>44467364 said.
It also helps that my Orlocks are kitbashed from Catachans and random bits.
>>44467364
>>44467420
now I know and all that.
In that case, magnets are super easy, but unfortunately, they are often costly ordering online (something about the shipping I think?)
Live near a Hobbytown USA? They usually carry them.
>>44467256
>>44467295
Thanks friendo.
>>44467451
Magnets from brazil or china often have free shipping worldwide.
What kind of putty do you guys use on your wire trees?
>>44467650
This time with pictures!
Gonna try making some squats, what would be the best base dwarf models to use? I already have the guns and arms. Looking for ornate, armored guys if possible. I was told to try irondrakes from GW, but was curious if anyone else had ideas
I'm the urban camo guy
here are 3 patterns I just did. what do you guys think I should use?
>>44467860
>>44467808
I like the red one, but it's more of an industrial camo and not urban, so it may not fit your criteria
>>44467808
I like the one on the left imo.
>>44467808
Digging the red one
>>44467808
left by far.
>>44467643
Must not have been looking at the right sites, never had luck online so I went a long time without magnetizing anything.
>>44467808
Red team is best team.
>>44467808
Red, glad those pictures helped :)
>>44467808
Why blue?
Theres nothing blue in a urban combat enviroment. Try painting some khaki instead of the blue areas and they will look operator as fuck.
If not, the red one looks cool, but dont call it camo.
>>44468251
There are blue and red camo irl so why would it not exist in a fucking sci fi setting with space aliens and millions of planets?
>>44467808
Red wun goez fasta.
Red wun is betta.
![cbe37ee146f9028c6a5f4c8edde8e4e9[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/rRrdaJ5.jpg "cbe37ee146f9028c6a5f4c8edde8e4e9[1].jpg")
>>44468345
>There are blue and red camo irl
And they are useless in a combat scenario.
>why would it not exist in a fucking sci fi setting with space aliens and millions of planets?
You can make anything you like, but if you are looking to make a camouflage pattern you should look for what "camouflage" means first.
>>44468484
The red scheme looks nice and would work in an industrial environment, stop being a dick to the guy.
>>44468484
So in a world where the terrain is red or blue wearing those colours is not camo?
>>44468514
I already said that in my first post. The red one looks cool.
>>44468516
Ok, you win.
>>44468484
Planet orbiting a blue star, plants are all red to absorb the highest amount of energy they can. Boom, red camo.
>>44468251
>Theres nothing blue in a urban combat enviroment
tell that to the russians
>>44468484
so what would you suggest to do?
>>44468484
>blue isn't used as shadows in camo patterns
>red camo would never be viable on even one of the billions of worlds
First time painting force weapons. Super fun but super stressful. Might need a little touch up here or there but happy with the result.Thoughts?
>>44468724
Personally? I'd glaze some blue on there. Lessen the straight white/black a bit.
I bet masking that halberd's edge was fun.
>>44468724
>Hazard suit GKs
Little bit of glaze will really make those pop.
>>44468724
Looks sexy
>>44468724
very nice swords indeed.
>>44468760
>>44468785
I've thought about glazing them with Gulliman Blue, only thing that held me back was that the armor itself has a blue tint to it. Didn't want a sea of blue on blue, but I think I'm going to revisit it after the armor is completely done and try on one model.
>>44469258
don't feel that force weapons HAVE to be blue.
I personally am partial to purple and green.
>>44469283
I think I'm going to do the Soul Glaive in purple, for something different. For some reason I've decided to stick with colors close to canon with these Grey Knights and it's been fun as hell.
With Draigo, I might do green or some other color to distinguish him. I'm just afraid of green looking too "chaos-y."
>>44469283
Fluff-wise, I'd say force weapons very much mirror their users, so each user would have an unique shade. For Gray Knights, though, it would be nice with golden light, since they're supposed to be soldiers for the God-Emperor. otherwise, purple would put them apart from power weapon blue or Necron green.
>>44469446
Oh shit, didn't even think of yellow. That could be pretty cool.
My other Space Marines are Salamanders, and any of their power weapons are going to be red/yellow/orange.
>>44469527
I'd aim for more of an amber rather than lemon tint, I'd say.
Also, red power weapons for Salamanders is really cool, and would add a nice contrast. In the RPGs, there's variant power weapons that due to a rather fortunate error in the power field rendered them intensely hot. While some would cry "non-canon", it's a neat idea that Salamanders would probably enjoy. Would also explain the red colour.
I don't fucking understand drybrushing. I just can't do it and I don't understand why. I follow tutorials, say https://youtu.be/lcbCfjvYk00 , where I have the same exact fucking brush, I do the same things, the same movements, and nothing happens. No paint goes on the model. I look at my brush, and there's no paint on the brush; why should there be, it's all on the paper towel. But if I wipe less then the brush isn't dry, I can touch it and the paint sops onto my finger. If I wipe too little the brush is still wet, if I wipe til the brush is dry then there is no paint left. I try putting less or more paint on the brush, maybe I had too much or too little, but no, same difference.
I don't get it. This is supposed to be an easy technique but I just do not get it.
>>44469764
Figured it'd also be fitting since they're from a lava world anyway, and would match their bases to an extent. Taking some creative liberties and going by the rule of cool basically. My Salamanders are brown-skinned anyway, not black like the current canon, so I'm deviating anyway.
>>44466070
I fucking like the pale blue
You might want to make the claws white and please tell me the eyes aren't yellow
>>44469811
Have you tried all colors? I've noticed that metallics like GW's Leadbelcher are really easy to drybrush, especially over black, while other colors like aged whites are a little tougher.
How the fuck should I base my Grey Knights? I want to do something like a demon world but don't want to waste time with lava and shit, but I'm afraid that if I just to black/grey rocks/sand it'll be too basic.
>>44469938
why not a nurgle world? muddy swamp and putrid filth, rot, corpses everywhere
>>44469811
there's a trick to remove only excess paint from the drybrush, not all, takes half a paintpot to get used to it.
>>44469938
Broken mirrors, small crystals, burning books, have them raze a shining haven of knowledge.
>>44469938
nothing but dildos and heroin needles for a slaanesh world
>>44470066
snow terrain, literal mountains of cocaine...
>>44469938
In the Ultramarine book Dead Sky Black Sun they described the Daemon world of the Iron Warriors, it was bleak and shit with hellish landscapes of torture and scattered fragments of metal.
>>44470066
pools of whiteish liquid
>>44469877
Eyes are painted red
>>44470066
>>44470125
>>44470159
Dear god the jokes
They are so good
More progress, thoughts on base?
>>44470296
appropriately bloody for the monster spider.
Finished my Orlock leader. Sorry for the crappy picture, been painting in the cottage so my normal lighting rig is at home.
>>44463184
>looks incredibly detailed bro
is that meant ironic?
>>44470399
wtf is the cottage
>>44470511
A small house that's generally in the a rural area that you visit during the holidays. Usually near a lake, near a mountain, or stuff like that.
>>44470399
Holy shit it's John Travolta in Grease
>>44470631
Aye, but with a bolter. Figured he'd make a nice gang leader. Hasslefree has some damn nice sculpts.
>>44470557
Yeah, and it's maximum cozy. Not pictured is the fireplace that's literally two metres in front of me, and the frozen lake at my back.
>>44470736
consider me jelly
>>44468251
>red isn't a camo colour
>>44468251
>Theres nothing blue in a urban combat enviroment.
What's pink in a desert environment?
NEW PAINTED HERE
WHAT PRIMER DO YOU USE
WHAT NON-GW DO YOU RECCOMEND
WHAT NON-METALLIC, NON-SHADE PAINT DO YOU RECCOMEND OUTSIDE GW
>>44471037
I use Krylon for priming
>>44470938
Some sandstone variants.
>>44471037
The usual answers is Army Painter and Vallejo for normal paints. Both are good, as far as I know. The most experienced painter at the gaming club recommended Vallejo to me, although I've yet to use anything but GW, since it's all my FLGS stocks. I might have managed to convince them to take in other brands instead.
Either way, cut down on the caps lock and write like a normal person. We're mostly sensible and polite, although sometimes brutally honest. Ask for help and you shall receive (eventually), be annoying and you shall be ignored.
>>44467650
Silicone caulking, it takes a bit longer to cure but it will remain pliable afterwards so you can re-position the tree if need be.
>>44467720
The Irondrake/Ironbreaker kit would work the best.
>>44471491
I didn't even think of caulk, do you sculpt bark out of the silicone
>>44467486
Okay so tried this out on a black primed model I had laying around (a Khorne Berzerker) and the Averland Sunset went on pretty decently in two thin coats. When I tried the Moon Yellow (Vallejo) it went on super streaky. I think I might go acquire a Citadel yellow and give it a try.
>>44471102
>>44471367
This is all i needed, big thanks, kind of in a hurry and needed replies quickly because i'm heading out before shops close and they're closed tommorow too and i don't want to starve on New Years Eve
>>44464563
Thanks! I agree on the highlighting, but my hands are no where near steady enough for proper hard edge highlighting. Maybe just go over them a few more times with a drybrush?
Also, for the UCM (the tan guys), I used the following scheme and process; I'm sure there's a better way to do it:
Treads/Wheels/Engines in Mechanicus Standard Grey.
Armor in Rakarth Flesh
Wash painted parts with Agrax Earthshade
Weapons/Electronics in Celestra Grey (after the wash because it looks far too dark otherwise)
Drybrush everything with Dawnstone
Is MDF board, high density foam, and balsa wood easily available at a place like Menards or Lowes?
>>44472926
MDF yes, HDF and Balsa are usually a craft store thing.
Sisters of Battle themed drop pod doors.
>>44473618
Those are sweet looking
>>44460056
Pretty sweet. Kinda feel the weapons on the left dude are a bit off-scale, could maybe do with brighter, paler highlights on legs if you're going for denim.
>>44465649
I like how the grunts look visibly distressed by what they're seeing, while the middle dude is blindfolded and chilling in the face of horror. Red urban camo with gold accents sounds interesting.
>>44466236
Disgusting...ly great job all around.
>>44466251
Blending on that orange is delicious itself, but man, that freehand.
>>44468724
Please be careful when assembling those. They look so sharp, you could probably lose a finger easily.
Finally built myself a lightbox.
Well, I'm not as happy with this one as I was the orc. Namely that head, it's just atrocious, but it got to the point where everything I was doing was making it look worse so I gave up and stopped. Also couldn't figure out a good eye color, so I just up and made them gold. Why not.
I need a lot of practice with drybrushing. Also the base still sucks, but that's life I think at this stage of the game.
