I wish to construct a hypothetical structure that reduces the height of waves (on the ocean) below x given that the waves are never higher than y
At first glance I thought this would be easy (the waves move a x meters per second with y mass giving z momentum) but I noticed that I have no clue how much water is moving or how fast
So how do I ocean wave math
>>7954387
>how much water is moving or how fast
All of it. The wave travels through the water, not as the water. Same with speed: The speed of the wave is the speed of the wave. The water is just a medium.
>>7954490
Yes and no
The waves are momentum of the water
Water is a medium but its carrying kinetic energy
My gut tells me that taking the speed up and down (height of wave/period of wave) by the volume of the wave (the volume above the surface that appears to be bouncing up and down) will get its momentum but I have no idea what's actually moving
>>7954510
the water molecules themselves are going in circles
http://i.imgur.com/7oWrxEJ.gif
>>7954387
I'll show you the superiority of french engineering anon
from EM: you can shield against waves by using a lattice of reflective material. The lattice has to be smaller than the wavelength you are interested in
from fluid mechanics: well waves gon be waves, so you can transpose this principle to waves in fluids.
So what you want is a structure that's bigger than the zone you want to protect, and a lattice with a smaller size than that of the wavelenghts you want to shield against.
>>7954510
>carrying
No, it isn't, it's transferring it. That's what it means to be the medium vs. the vehicle. Fluid dynamics is different from all other forms of knowledge that you know of.
>>7954584
Don't be stupid
The water actually does go up and down (this is where most of the kinetic energy is stored)
The water actually does move in a direction overall (these waves are caused by wind pushing the water)
Saying the water carries no kinetic energy is like saying the air carries no pressure when transmitting sound (though sound can net zero pressure)
>>7954387
Besides some kind of anchored structure floating on the surface, I dunno. Even that isn't stopping the wave, just breaking it's crest on the surface.
This thread has gone nowhere so far so ill try being very specific
I know that waves are the water going up and down
In the case of my question I know how tall the waves are and how fast it goes from valley to peak
What I don't know is the volume of water that is moving up and down
For example
Consider a shallow wave pool
If the waves are as deep as the pool you know that all of the water is moving up and down (I don't think this is possible tho)
Now consider the ocean
The ocean is deep enough that I'm absolutely sure the up and down motion propagates only a relatively short depth AND it is less extreme below the surface
My intuition tells me that the wave by the surface velocity is equal to the average velocity but I haven't the slightest on the actual maths here
>>7954685
Look at the context of "carrying" in that anon's post. It carries energy primarily by transferring it. Primarily is the key word here. All is gradients.
>>7954724
So you want to know the mathematical structure of the wave within its medium? ie., you want to know if there's a center/origin for the wave itself?