hey bois
wanting to get into bowhunting for feral pigs down in Victoria, dos e anyone else bowhunt on /out/ ?
if so whats a good starter 40-50lb bow. i know not to get those shitty Chinese bows but all the forums suggest $500 + bows. i only want to sped up to $250.
thanks
>what is Google
Yeah, ausfag
I always recommend whatever the entry level hunting Samick recurve is at the time; I think it's SAGE nowadays (was Talon a little bit back)
50 pound is fine for a noob
I like Eastern Legacy aluminum shafts; you generally want to go heavy with shaft and broadhead against pigs; Cedar shafts work too
Practice a lot before taking to the field. Whatever range you can hit a paper party plate with certainty is your hunting range.
Sights.... If you want. I don't like 'em. I just shoot of the plastic tab rest.
Should be able to get a Sage for around $200
Some bowstring wax
A finger tab (don't really need a arm guard unless you're shooting like a target fag)
You didn't mention what bow type. I reckon a recurve is good enough, but you know.
>>809099
thanks man i was looking at just that bow. big help anon
>>809099
this is the best i can find
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/samick-sage-/262489933801?var=&hash=item3d1d9e87e9:m:m0_IV7p8bU_mk8ABI_QsZ_A
>>809099
what is this thing about samick sage?
i'm sure they work well but in which way are they superior to other takedown recurves in that price range?
>>809174
im looking for a intro bow but now the "APEX PRIMAL HUNTING TAKEDOWN RECURVE" has taken my eye as its on sale for $200
>>809174
Samick is a good brand, I guess. I've always had good luck with them, so I'll recommend such out of experience.
You hear that stuff like Martin Jaguar and PSE Coyote are good too, but I've never used them.
The middle of the road Samick hunters are arguably better than the basic Fred Grizzly; got the latter, and the extra $200 doesn't show.
op again
whats your bois thoughts on this for first buy
gonna get the broad heads later close to first hunt.
>>809845
Oi cunt, you should give up, your police state will confiscate it and defect you for a laugh
>t. glorious nsw masterrace
>>809845
Looks ok
Just need to know the ferrule diameter of the shafts when you want to buy broadheads; I'm sure they'll be a standard size
All of that will get you set up--just need some broadheads for when you want to shoot game.
Stacked cardboard makes a good backstop for your targets; just tape a heap of cardboard sheets together, and they'll stop the arrows. Old phone books are good, though they're pretty small if you start increasing the range for a noob.
>>809862
To add,
I have an Apex recurve
A 40 pound thing that I use for messing around on the property and small game hunting
It works fine
>>809845
I recently picked up Apex's martin Jaguar elite, good deal on a great bow.
>>809870
Making your own backstops that you can put your paper targets on is the way to go. No need to buy an expensive target box from a shop.
We tend to get big deer here, so yeah, 55 pounds is better. You can also shoot small game with it too just fine if you run upon something when /out/; of note, broadheads or field points will both shoot though anything small you come across, such as bunnies and foxes. Having a couple of arrows setup with a Judo point or other small game head tends to be a good idea when /out/.
>>809880
i think 55 pounds is quite alot, even more to begin with
consider that it might fuck up your form, accuracy or your body
it depends on your physique, fitness, draw length etc
>>810006
ive shot a 40 pound before when i did target shooting years ago o i think ill be fine.
I'll give a hot tip on bow hunting - prepare yourself to be very patient. It's more than likely that you wont hit shit for your first several outings, just gotta keep working at it.
>>809862
>stacked cardboard
Man, I remember using that when I got my compound bow. It came preset to 75 lbs, shot right through six folded cardboard boxes before it stopped (field points). What I took to doing was I took an old moldy foam mattress, folded it double and stuffed it into a cardboard box. Stopped the arrows just as well, but made it a lot easier to pull them out. Not very good for broadheads, though - they'll tear the mattress to shreds in about 20 shots.
A mate of mine suggested stuffing a plastic bag with old clothes, which doesn't sound like too bad an idea either.
I shoot a 60 lbs Stealth Hunter compound bow, but rarely go for anything more exciting than gulls, ravens and other pests.
>>809845
>>809088
Hey mate, just letting you know Apex is asian made and also kind of garbage, at least for compounds.
As far as reasonable quality compound bows in that price range, it's basically just the PSE Stinger. It's more than $250, but less than $500 anyway. Anything cheaper than a Stinger and you will likely be buying crap.
The trad route is easier to do for the money but it'll take you longer to reach hunting standard and the hunts will be harder (e.g. 25 metres will be a long shot).
Either way, you're going to be spending more than $250. Whatever kind of bow, you'll need a quiver, arrows and broadheads. For trad you'll still need a glove and an arm guard (also bear hair and strike plate), and for compound you'll need a sight, rest and release aid.
You might not want to spend a lot now, but I reckon it ultimately works out better to buy something good straight out the gate rather than spend money on borderline gear that you'll regret having once you know what you're doing.
>>811076
i was looking into a compound but whats the advantage over a recurve ?
>>811148
Not the guy, but generally speaking...
>Let-off
You can hold it drawn for longer, with less strain.
>Precision
This one is obviously dependent on the shooter, but once you have your nock point set, a kisser button, peep sight and sight pins set, you should have no problems planting all your shots in a coffee mug-sized target at 30 yards.
Recurve bows struck me as more of a "shoot-by-feel" kinda thing in comparison (Though there are sights for them too), but I've only had very little time with them, so please take this with a grain of salt.
>Power
The compound bow has longer string, so you get more power, arrows go faster, again letting them penetrate better.
>Accessories
You can find accessories for both bows, but I've had an easier time finding hunting accessories for compound bows.
>Adjusting draw weight
With a recurve bow, you can change the draw weight by changing the limbs out with lighter or heavier ones.
Compound bows have a screw on the limbs you can tighten and loosen. Depending on the bow, this is usually between 10-20 lbs.
A word of advice, though - Don't buy a bow based on how HIGH it can go, but rather on how low it can go. I'm a pretty strong guy, and until I figured out how to tune my compound bow, I was good for about ten shots with 75 lbs draw weight before I was too tired to shoot straight. I suppose I wouldn't recommend much heavier than a 30-40 lbs bow for starters, even if you're very strong - It'll let you learn the correct drawing technique, so in time you can learn to draw a 50-60 lbs bow (if you even need that much) and actually have the time to aim and hit something with it.
Now, being that I mostly shoot with a compound bow and have very limited experience with recurves, I suggest you take a look at this guy, who's a recurve shooter - Admittedly a target shooter, but he still brings up some points.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yR-QDb5L8iI
>>811184
thanks anon
>>811148
Sorry about the delay. That other guy has got sort of most of it. I'd add a few things though.
A good bit of the precision comes some having the bow fitted to you (re: set draw length and peep sight height). Sights are obviously a big part of this too, but it all rests on a foundation of repeatable technique.
String length has nothing to do with power. A compound bow is generally more powerful than a trad bow because you are generally able to shoot more draw weight with let off and also because, through manipulation of cam geometry/draw cycle compound bows store more energy.
Here's something important to know if you want to hunt pigs: speed doesn't predict penetration. You don't want to shoot 350 grain arrows at pigs even at like 300+ fps. Momentum is probably the best predictor of penetration, which tends to favour greater arrow weight. As you increase arrow weight though, you're shedding speed and you're trajectory won't be as flat. It's a tradeoff.
On draw weight adjustment, most compounds are adjustable 10# down from peak weight (most bows sold are 50-60 or 60-70, but there's usually a 40-50 model). Some bows are made with a large range of draw weights, like the infinite edge, but they give up some other aspects of performance to get that usually. If you're a reasonably fit guy, 50# with the standard 75-85% let off will probably be manageable. It'll get easier as you develop your back muscles and use correct technique.
>>809088
>for feral pigs down in Victoria
Victorian reporting in
where do you find feral pigs? I've encountered wild dogs, goats and deer.
>>>>811798
state parks around mount Cole near Ballarat
>>811801
cheers. I normally go to the butcher country around Mt Buller.
I'll have to keep this in mind. I've wanted to do feral pigs for god knows how long
cheers anon
Ok op hear
You guys have been super helpful with choosing bows and getting started
But I have one final herdal
Mummy wants to know why I want to kill piglets
>>812600
Tell her you were gonna use them to make her a nice dinner. That'll make the cunt feel bad
>>812619
Oath
>>812600
Literally mum banned from hunting wild oinkers
