I guess I should also say that I have asperger's syndrome and while I'm much better in social situations and whatnot, I'm shit when it comes to reading people and emotions.

never extended warranty. 100% scam.

you can haggle anything. Generally, the longer a car has been sitting on the lot, the more money off the dealer will be willing to give. Generally they will NEVER take a loss though. It does happen sometimes, but it's rare.

I went and looked at a truck. They were asking $28,000 for it. I left with the truck and paid $18,000.

Aggression won't get you far. What will get you far is acting/threatening/etc to take your money to another dealership. They want your money until they realize you are an incompetent moron trying to get an impossible deal. Don't be that moron. Expect a good deal, don't expect a free car.

>>14008202
>I guess it's just strange for me to imagine saying fuck you LPG, knock off two thousand.

Hey, that's one way to do it. Let me see if I still have my tl:dr haggling guide around OP

>>14008214
>I'm shit when it comes to reading people and emotions.
You'll be fine. negotiation is business. You don't need to read someone to BUY a car.

>>14008233

Nice dubs. Now, what I wanna know is, how did you end up paying 10K less? I wanna know the whole process.

I plan on getting (leasing) a new vehicle soon, and I'm torn between various numbers. I know the MSRP can be reduced, but what about the cap cost? Can I go lower than that?

Educate me, if you please.

>>14008243

Was about to try and summon you, as well. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. It was partly thanks to your advice that I decided not to finance a vehicle for 5 years outside my budget range (age of the vehicle, etc. were factors as well).

>>14008243
Fuck dude, we need new stories. It's been awhile, hasn't it?

>>14008269
Two quick points.

1.)Don't lease. Leasing is for business owners who can write it off on their taxes and rich fucks who want a new car every 2 years. You have far more leverage negotiating to buy anyway.

2.)Time is on your side. New car dealers always have monthly budgets and projections to hit so that they can bonus. Go at the end of the month when they are counting every last car to get the bonus. Also, cars that have been sitting on the lot for a long ass time kick them in the ass on their floor plan report.

If you have the ability, check out your local dealerships and scope the inventory. See what's moving and what isn't, and that will give you an idea of what cars they will be more likely to deeply discount.

To answer your questions above

>Are all cars open to negotiating in a general view, not counting dumbass instances like buying the last Evo ever or some shit
If it has 4 wheels, it's negotiable. Also, remember, EVERY part of the sales can be negotiated, not just the price
>How much is it acceptable to ask off
Depends on the car. I got 13K knocked of my SLK when I bought it, but 15-25% should be easily achievable on most cars
>How do you know how much to ask off
Research. Look at owners forums. See how much people have paid recently to buy these things. Look at book values from KBB, NADA. and Black Book. Hell trucar isn't a bad resources either.
>How far will agression get you
Not very, persistence works much better with new cars
>What vehicle types are less negotiable (Hotcake mid trim sedan versus barebone single cab truck versus mid-size RWD SUV)
Boyracer cars and anything that has limited inventory
>Will extended warranty be worth it
Nope

>>14008202
There's a guide for just this sort of thing in the sticky. It's not the first post, so easy to miss.

>buying from a dealership

If you want any kind of advantage with bartering, there can't be a middleman like a dealer. He's already bartered and got the car at a deal, you're the one paying a premium on it.

>>14008315
Now to expand:

Get SOME sort of financing in hand before you go to the dealer. You want to have something for him to beat, rather than him throwing down something for you to say yes or no to.

If you know what sort of car you are looking for, follow the steps I outlined above. check local inventory. Look for cars that have been on the lot a while. Check owners forums and book values to see what sort of prices people in the wild have actually payed.

When you go, toss out an offer that's 25% below asking and let them counter it. As pointed out above, your most powerful weapon is the ability to walk away. The dealership wants to avoid sinking tons of time into you for no sale. Don't be afraid to take an offer, call another dealership, and ask them to beat it.

Above all, be patient, and don't be afraid to walk your happy ass out the door if you don't like the price/apr/anything about the sale.

>>14008342
Another fun tactic is to email several local dealerships with the specs of a car you want and let them bid against each other.

To your point about people, and not being able to read them, keep it strictly business. being distant and detached benefits you as the buyer. If a dealer thinks you have gotten emotionally attached/fallen in love with a car, he will be much less likely to deal.

If they come back with a price that's too high, just tell them that it's more than you want to pay. Keep the negotiations centered around the out the door price. Don't let them drag you down to a battle of "if I can get you to XX a month would you buy?". Ask for a buyers order that itemizes all charges, and negotiate from that ONLY.

You might go 4 or 5 rounds with the sales guy/sales manager, just remember they make money by selling cars, and as long as you don't try to get the car for free, most dealerships will continue to negotiate.

>>14008367
Why are you against warranties? Gives me good peace of mind knowing dealer will fix whatever issues.

>>14008315

I ran some numbers though, and it seems that for a span of three years, it would be cheaper to lease. Granted, I'd WANT to purchase the car, but if the vehicle is 28k (Honda Odyssey), It's gonna be super expensive per month anyway.

I base this off of my current shit-box, which I bought on a 5 year finance plan, but ended up paying it off in three. 23k miles driven too.

Keep talking though, more advice please.

>>14008367

By the way, thank you in advance for this advice. I'm checking out some forums now and indeed, people have gotten the price dropped dramatically.

>>14008233
So would it be advisable to not come off the bat saying "it's BRZ or nothing?" I tend to forget that most people think in terms of "Minivan" not "Refreshed Toyota Sienna" versus "Final model year of Dodge Caravan." Also detail that truck purchase if you can, that's awesome.

>>14008367
This is genuinely helpful. My dad got wrung the fuck out on the emotions end when I was like 14, resulting in a pretty hard financial burden for a new Sienna which should have been bought used to begin with.

I do like the idea of putting the dealers in war. On that note, if I print out my pretty spec sheet from the Online Build and Price, will the dealer try their best to honor all of those option choices? I know I can get Weather Tech mats and shit, but I'd rather not wait 5 years for a company to design an interface so I can have a tasteful subwoofer when I can put out $400 now and have the dealer install it.

>leasing
ahahhahaha
neck yourself

>>14008415
Eh, because most of my experience with extended warranties comes from the used market, it's just a HUGE scam fest with those things. 95% of the time, you aren't actually getting the warranty through the dealership. They are selling you a 3rd party warranty offered by another company, and simply collecting a commission for selling it.

This means if anything goes wrong, the actual warranty company has to send out an underwriter to look at your car, and approve the repair, and they will look for any reason they can to deny the claim

With new cars, it's still a sticky situation. Again, a lot of the time, you are buying a plan put together by THAT particular dealership. A local Ford dealership where I live sells a "lifetime" warranty for there cars, but it comes with a lot of strings. You have to have the car serviced with them and only them. No aftermarket mods, not even an aftermarket radio.

You just have to read the fine print very carefully to see who the warranty is coming from, and how they base the coverage.

>>14008416
>>14008432
Like I said, you can USUALLY negotiate a cheaper overall price if you go in to buy. Dealers have more leverage to discount on a pure sale than they do a lease. As always, you could float both situations and see which one is cheapest in the long run

>>14008445
>On that note, if I print out my pretty spec sheet from the Online Build and Price, will the dealer try their best to honor all of those option choices?

It's a great way to leverage them. You can take them the build sheet, and tell them you will buy from whoever gets you the closest to that configuration at the lowest price. As weird as it sounds, you have MORE power if they know you are ready to buy. dealerships don't wanna waste the time on someone who is 'just looking' if that makes sense.

>>14008495
Makes perfect sense. Things like the classic
>T O Y O T A
grill option on the Tacoma or Holden badges/mats on the SS just get me going. I'm going to bed now, thank you very much for your input. I'll check in the morning if there's any new posts.

>>14008495

Will do. I'm picking the vehicle based on the functionality and purpose of it, so I will compare the lease vs. purchase aspect in detail.

It sucks that getting a used minivan is so difficult. The price is high, yet the age and mileage usually is too. For a 5+ year deal, the price didn't seem so bad, but if I only keep the vehicle three years, I didn't want to get fucked over with paying the interest I would have for those two extra years anyway.

>>14008587
>It sucks that getting a used minivan is so difficult.
Minivans are the one vehicle that no one buys to baby. I actually do sell a lot of them, probably 80% of them being Chrysler Town & countries/Dodge GC's.

You can get a fully loaded T&C for 25K in the used market, if you can deal with FCA build quality.

>>14008609

>FCA

Funny you mention that. I drive a Neon now, and except for the dumb things I did to it, the car has run pretty well, minus a thermostat issue. Still, I know FCA still has its problems.

It's weird. I've always loved Honda since I was a kid, but I remember a while back you did a post about never buying if a vehicle is 10yrs/100k or something like that. I want a minivan to call my own, but if I get swamped in repairs and such later on, it's like, why even bother? I would buy a 2012+ GC if I could, but even at roughly 60-70k miles, they're still like, 250/mo.

If I do decide to buy an Odyssey (anything 2014+ should be fine), should I go used or new? If the base model is 28k, I'm guessing I can negotiate it down to 25k, correct me if I'm wrong.

Also, I drive less than 8k a year... if that means anything.

>>14008785
>FCA
Haha, it's even funnier, because my in-laws needed a minivan, and I ended up getting them a fully decked out 2011 T&C. For them, the Stow & Go seats made it the only van that would work for their purposes. All things considered, I like the layout of the T&C better than the Odyssey, but you can absolutely sniff out the build quality issues if you drive one for any length of time. And I suppose time will tell how well it hold sup

But to your situation, go used. For 25-28K you can get a 2014 Touring with decent miles in decent shape. The only way going new would be worth it is if you plan on keeping this van 10+ years. Otherwise, let someone else take the initial hit on depreciation. Banks funking love Honda vans, so you shouldn't have any problems on that end.

File: IMG_20150126_171742750.jpg (4 MB, 4320x2432) Image search: [Google]

4 MB, 4320x2432

>>14008785
>>14008822
also, pic related is the van in question

>>14008822

As if I would ever doubt trip dubs.

Thank you for the advice, I'm memorizing it now. I plan to make this purchase in a few months, so I got plenty of time.