Stall converters ???
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Sup o/.. Who here knows about stall converters and can answer questions for a complete newbie ???
1- what exactly does it DO? The more I research about it the more I learn about what it's made of, how it works, etc but not much on how it actually affects every day driving.. Does it just improve acceleration but only from a dead stop ? I have been told from someone i know that its really only useful for when you accelerate while holding the brake down so when u release the brake the car can screw off the line... But that doesn't sound right based on the stuff i been reading.
2- besides a stall converter what else are the associated costs/work that needs to be done when installing one ??? Based on reading other pages ive concluded that a transmission cooler is an absolute must.. But what about a shift kit ? is that another necessary add on ? And this im very curious to know... Will a tune need to be done after installing a stall converter ? .
3- what are the risks with adding a stall converter? Will it increase wear on the transmission ? Will it increase likelihood of tranny failure even with a cooler ?
4- last but not least what is the associated total cost with having a professional instal one (with a cooler and all other associated costs) ???
Edit- i know this is a broad question because it requires labor rates, location, etc etc but im just trying to get an idea of how big of a job it is.
>>15229401
1. Improves power handling of a transmission when increasing torque or needing to spool a turbo, hurts gas mileage a tad
2. Transmission fluid will be pumped at a greater rate before locking up causing higher temps, cooler is recommended. A tune will help keep it from gear searching during non-WOT operation.
3. You are modding your car to increase performance, expect some deceased life. This is more dependant on your driving and maintainence habits
4. Figure about $300 - $500 for installation if that's all your doing to the car, not including the part. You failed to provide info on the car.
5. Drive a stick you pussy
>>15229964
'00 trans am .. So 500 labor JUST for the torque converter ? Not including parts ? Damn. I would wanna also add a shift kit and cooler while i have the tech in there
>>15229401
>while i have the tech in there
You will save a ton a money if you do the work yourself. Pulling a transmission is pretty easy, just look at all the retards doing it. If you can follow simple directions, then you can install the shift kit too.
>>15229401
It is called a torque converter because it converts the power of your engine at high rpm to the same power (minus about 2%) at a much lower output RPM, resulting in the increased torque of the lower RPM output. More stall means that higher RPM power will be converted, which is great if you have a cam that needs high RPM to make power.
>>15230033
Yeah, you're talking about separating the trans from the engine, then dropping it out to replace the stall converter, off course they're going to charge that for replacement you since, 500 actually sounds pretty damn reasonable
>>15230033
Sounds like you're getting shafted. A clutch change is 200 dollars why wouldn't a tc?
>>15232432
>>15229401
>stall converter
FYI it's called a torque converter. You're referring to a high stall torque converter as opposed to low stall.
>>15229401
You can view a torque converter as a metaphorical big piece of elastic that connects the engine and transmission. The sloppyness it what allows the automatic gearbox to stop when you hokd the brake, and allows it to shift
When you put your foot hard on the brake, and start adding gas, the RPM at which you start moving is your stall RPM. Basically, it's the point where the engine is turning the elastic so hard, the brakes get overwhelmed. By going for a softer elastic, your engine needs to make more power to overpower the brakes, since more is lost in the elastic (torque converter). You do this, so you get a higher launch RPM - the engine will be more in it's powerband, and it'll accelerate quicker from that high RPM. However, this looser elastic (TC) means it'll slip at cruising, which drops your gas mileage, and if it slips too much, you're not getting any power into the transmission. Since energy isn't lost, only converted, a loose torque converter will heat up significantly conpared to a tight one - which means you'll need to cool it more.
This answers question 1: a higher stall torque converter improves straight line acceleration.
2: as above, a loose TC adds heat, so you need a cooler. You don't need a shift kit per se, but it's nice, since it would shift faster, firther improving accelerstion.
You could also get a manual valvebody - this means you have to shift yourself. Might hurt consistency at the dragstrip though. To add to this, you can reverse the shift pattern, going from PRND321 to PRND123. When rowing through the gears, you end at the bottom (3). On a regular pattern, you might accidebtally shift one position too far, into neutral, and blow your engine if you don't have a rev limiter.
3:The stall converter itself doesn't really hurt, as long as you cool it properly. Most people with built converters abuse them at the strip though, and that's what consistently breaks parts.
>>15232631
4: Labor is impossible to calculate without vehicle info but expect parts + labor for a clutch change, at the very, very least.
Labor can be fairly pricey on the 4l60e. My 3rd and 4th gear went the way of the ghost. I supplied the rebuild kit and the torque converter. 1200 for labor. if you haven't bought one yet, save and buy a yank. Recommended stall speed of 3600. I drove untuned for a while, but would recommend a mail order tune soon after. I used frosttuning
>autotragic transmissions
americucks pls
