/bqg/ - Bike Questions General
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/bqg/ - Bike Questions General
Resources:
http://sheldonbrown.com/
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
If you want help picking out a bicycle, post in >>>/n/bbg , not here.
Jens :DD edition
Old thread(s):
>>963639
How much difference does a "Shadow" Rd make and should I spring extra dough to get it. First MTB. Plan to explore the local trail scene
>>966247
Given that it's your first MTB I wouldn't worry about the derailer, having a clutch -type derailer helps deal with chain slack but it's not necessary unless you're a very aggressive rider (or when running a 1x drivetrain).
I've used the suicide levers on my commuter for 3 years now. I'm not dead yet?
Ditching the crappy BB30 FSA cranks on my cross bike for some Shimano 10 speed cx cranks.
Looking at BB30 to 24mm adapters/converters, does anyone have any experience with them? Particularly looking at the Praxis and Rotor models. They seem to be getting good reviews. Also wondering if it's worth it stepping up to the ceramic bearings as well?
>>966252
You are dead on the inside
>>966259
Giving bits of my soul to Satan's levers everyday.
>>966255
i recommend the wheels mfg outboard bb. $75-90 on website but i got mine on flleabay for llike $35.
http://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/bb30-outboard/bb30-outboard-bottom-brackets.html
>>966263
Thanks man. I'll do some research on those. I like the idea of the two piece conversions better than those cheap adapters.
Unrelated to the BB, I'm sepcifically looking at the Shimano CX50 (105) crankset in 46/36. That said, they only offer it in 170 and 175mm. Would I notice much difference when stepping down to 170 from 172.5mm?
It's hard to find the CX70 (ultegra) cranks which are offered in 172.5mm and I don't want to mix SRAM cranks with Shimano components because it just kind of triggers me.
I've got myself a nice road bike - really old, but nice. It's light, very rigid (uncomfortably so) and feels very fast. I also like the fact that it has downtube shifters.
But, the maintenence is a bit of a pain, it's fairly uncomfortable at times and it's a little expensive to leave unprotected outside, or even just to throw it on the ground when visiting friends.
So I want a new bike. Something for short commutes over dead flat terrain in busy streets. Something reasonable comfortable, but extremely nimble and not so dainty that jumping gutters/curbs will destroy the bike. Probably a single speed.
What do i look for that'll give me something rugged, nimble and comfortable? Nimbleness and maneuverability are the biggest things for me. Certain frame geometries are the biggest things?
>>966265
You'll notice the 2.5mm difference at first, but quickly adapt. There's actually a theory that going to shorter crankarms is beneficial because it'll force you to pedal a faster cadence.
>>966268
>it's fairly uncomfortable at times and it's a little expensive to leave unprotected outside, or even just to throw it on the ground when visiting friends.
Can it fit wider tyres?
Won't your friends let you bring your bike inside???
>>966270
That's what I was reading. My other thought on it was that I already having toe overlap with the 172.5mm cranks and don't want to make it worse.
>>966272
I'm sure some of them would. But it's a little strange to be bringing a dirty bicycle into a friends house. Not to mention pub trips, cafes, shopping, etc.
Wider tires are an option I've considered. But I really do like the speed and feel of the bike when I'm actually wanting to ride and ride fast.
I think another big part of it is I just want another bike. It's fun to sit and search around for new(or new old) bikes.
The other big things is I'd like something that's nice and nimble. This bike doesnt feel like it turns that fast(change of direction, rather than corner speed). Again, something that doesnt bother me on longer faster rides, but does when I'm weaving in and out of traffic/pedastrians, even at a slow a pace.
>>966268
A lot of what you're looking for will come down to personal preference, especially comfort. "Nimbleness" isn't a very descriptive attribute: pretty much any bike that's not a long-wheelbase touring bike, a racing bike designed to be ridden in an aerodynamic posture, or a beach cruiser will have a turning radius and fast enough steering to pick your way through a typical city obstacle course, but your comfort with different kinds of postures/handlebar setups may change what feels sufficiently 'nimble' to you. And being able to ride off curbs is entirely dependent on how strong your wheels are.
Are interceptor levers much better than suicide levers?
>>966278
Yes.
The old turkey wings found on 70's road bikes will allow you to slow down and are adequate for low-speed situations (presumably that's how this guy is using them) >>966262
but modern interrupter levers give you full braking power, and often give more leverage (at the expense of modulation) than your main brake levers, enough that you can lock your wheels up.
>>966278
Interrupter levers work much better than suicide levers, yes.
>>966277
Righteo, thanks. Guess I'll just search the classified for something cheap with a short wheelbase and angels and shit. Something cheap so i can dump some money into decent wheels.
My current ride is a Cannondale r600 from '92 I think. Fun bike, but fucking stiff.
>>966282
I remember those fuckers.
They're stiff where you want them to be compliant and noodles where you want them to be stiff.
>>966286
sounds about right. Sometimes riding it feels like im being fucked by a rusty corncob statue.
But it just feels so darn fast when riding with friends. Maybe theyre just weak legged bitches.
>>966265
>Would I notice much difference when stepping down to 170 from 172.5mm?
Depends on how you already pedal. When I switched from 170 to 165mm, I didn't find much of a difference as I was already spinning at a high cadence.
>>966265
I'm going through some crank length experiments right now.
At 6'4 / 37" inseam I followed conventional wisdom and went with 180mm cranks
Then I built a bike and threw 175mm on because I didn't want to pay for a new 180mm. Went on a century ride and my legs felt way better
Googling around, I came across the short-crank propaganda that's been going around the Triathlon circles the past 7 years or so.
What I know so far is 175mm felt better. So now I'm testing out the same bike with 165mm this weekend.
Bordering on clown bike proportions for my legs.
I've only taken it around the block so far, but the acceleration was incredible.
After more testing I'm going to test 170mm and 175mm again. No powermeter because I don't care *that* much. My main priority is efficiency on very long rides.
Anyways, I felt a HUGE difference going from 180mm to 175mm. Anybody who tells you they can't feel the difference is not in touch with their body's response to cranks, or is riding in a more upright position (where the knee lift doesn't get close to their chest). You should notice a difference going to 172.5
After all these years, I'm annoyed I fell for the long cranks meme. Zinn might be wrong. I once ordered a 200mm set from IRD, but thankfully they were so poorly constructed I returned for a refund. That would have been an expensive mistake.
The one argument in favor of long cranks is they are better for out-of-saddle climbing. 175mm did fine imho vs 180mm. I haven't been able to test the 165mm on a big hill, but I will soon enough.
I took my derailleur off to straighten out the hanger and now the derailleur bolt won't screw back in. What's wrong and what do I do?
>>966373
Forgot pic
>I took my derailleur off to straighten out the hanger and now the derailleur bolt won't screw back in. What's wrong and what do I do?
>>966374
Take a pic of the hanger threads without the screw in. Are they fucked?
>>966380
Hard to tell from the pic, but it looks like you may have fucked the start of those threads. You'll need to be very careful with putting that screw back in to make sure it gets started right.
It might help to take a flathead screwdriver and try to straighten them out a bit first. If you get it started it might still be difficult to turn. You'll either get the screw in or strip out the hanger entirely.
You can also try getting a screw in from the backside de of the hanger to straighten out the threads.
Good luck. It looks like that hanger is cast in. So if you totally fuck the threads you'd need to retap new threads, get a screw to fit, and possibly drill out the derailleur to fit.
>>966386
Thanks a lot. What would I be doing with the flathead to straighten them?
>>966389
Just prying and shimming. If you have a flathead bit set try to find one that is the right thickness for the threads.
It won't work well or be easy, but it might be enough to help you get it in.
>>966389
Don't use a flathead you have to re-tap that hole. Local hardware store would have something. Go in there and tell him you fucked up the threads on a suchandsuch size hole, he'll sell you something like $6. I'd start it from the other side and come up from under the hood zone
>>966391
>hood zone.
Come up from under the goof zone. Just bring it in from the back fuk
Was riding home today and some random guy spent about 20km riding in my wheel (it was a windy day)
How do I deal with this? I kind of felt like infringed in my personal space, I was taking all the wind and he was profiting from it. Is this acceptable? Should I be happy that I helped him? What's the proper etiquette here
Hi m8s, has anybody seen or had experience with plasti dip on frames?
It's for a bike that wont get used too much but will be used with a cable lock. will the lock fuck it up?
or should i just prime, paint and clear
>>966397
Kind of a cunt move to do and not take lead every so often, just pull over for a min if they are being a pussy, lel
>>966410
>plasti dip on frames
>plasti dip on literally anything
It's shit.
>>966245
So I'm tuning up this old bike of mine to make a tourer/workhorse out of it. As for the gears, I heard that for a touring setup you should go for the smallest chainrings and the biggest cogs you can get.
Will a 22-30-40 setup in front and a 9 speed casette ranging from 12 to 36 be viable? Or will it be way to slow when unladen?
Picked up a 2002 Lemond Buenos Aires for $400 yesterday. Ultegra 6510 (I think?) Did I do ok /n/?
>>966282
Get supple tires and/or a hammocky old-school leather saddle. My SR400 rolls 28c tires
>>966421
s-show us your frame, senpai
>>966410
>will be used with a cable lock
The correct term is 'gift ribbon'
>>966445
>Will a 22-30-40 setup in front and a 9 speed casette ranging from 12 to 36 be viable? Or will it be way to slow when unladen?
You've got the bottom gear right. Probably around 18 gear inches and most touring riders say 20.0 for the low
The top end will be pretty slow. I had two panniers full of stuff testing out a 1 x 9 set up (36 front, 11-36 rear) and it was too slow at times, even with the weight
I'm going to 42-36-22. You'll probably want a bigger middle gear since you'll use it the most, and 30 is really low unless you're carrying a lot
Consider a steel ring since they last longer
>>966460
pic related
>>966458
Yeah that's what I ended up doing and it worked. I seriously thought I might be going single speed for a minute there.
>>966282
>My current ride is a Cannondale r600 from '92 I think. Fun bike, but fucking stiff.
I've got a r800 CAAD5
I know exactly what you mean about nimble and stiff.
The nimble feeling is from the short chainstays. The closer the rear wheel is to your crankset, the quicker the turns will feel.
A track bike with a curved seat tube like pic related will have very fast handling
Then the front end, there's this thing called fork trail that you're going to have to read about if you care enough. It affects handling in big ways. I don't recommend screwing around with that until you know a little more
Another is simply the stem length. Shorter stem means twitchy handling, some like and some don't.
Anyways, your r500 is about as quick handling as you'll find without spending a lot of money
Consider getting a second bike and making THAT your good bike. Take the cannondale and see if you can fit 32c tires on it. On my Cannondale I can fit a 32c in the front, 28c in the rear (marathon supremes)
Cannondales are nice but I beat the hell out of mine and don't really care. Bikes are meant to be ridden.. .etc
+1 for a different saddle. If you wanna go full hipster put a girvin flexstem on it or something ridiculous like that
>>966473
Thanks a lot, anon. Nearest crankset I could get is a 44-32-22. Would that help? Might still be a bit on the slowish side for the middle chainring, tho.
I have one of these laying around. Shimano says it's for a triple chain ring use only.
Would using it for a double ring setup be a bad idea, and why?
>>966487
Pretty sure it's fine. As far as I know a front derailleur is a front derailleur. Just dial in the limit stops and cable tension like normal.
>>966496
*Shimano's manual says otherwise though.
>>966501
Shimano's manuals say a lot of things...
>>966501
>*Shimano's manual says otherwise though.
What do they know?
The real question is: What do you have to lose by trying?
It's possible that the limit screws might be too short for the reduced travel but they could just be replaced.
Uncle Sheldon thinks that the inner cage plate could be a problem, depending a bit on your chain ring selection.
First read:
http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ha-i.html#halfstep
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/derailers-front.html#deflectors
Then read:
http://sheldonbrown.com/front-derailers.html
It looks like you might need to grind down the inner cage plate to match the smaller chain ring, which probably makes it more trouble than it's worth but it depends on whether you have a grinder/dremel and whether time is worth more than money. It looks like it can certainly be done.
>>966487
You may run into some cable pull ratio issues, namely your indexed shifting won't be as accurate as it would be with a double RD. Other than that it should work fine.
I don't like wearing a helmet is this a terrible thing or will I be mostly okay
>>966516
It's fine until it's not, at which point it is really, really not okay and you'll suffer permanent debilitating brain injury.
>>966550
if you're a real cool dude you'll use friction shifting for the fd
>>966550
>3 speed shifter
Fuck no, use a fucking shifter that matches the fucking chain rings for fuck's sake. Otherwise your fucking indexing will be fucked. Fuck.
The longer limit screw is only speculation, try with the regular one, if there's no problem then no worries.
Is there a "correct" saddle angle for ones where the back curves upwards? (brook et al)
>Flat straight across the whole thing (so the nose is slightly up)
>Nose is flat (so the back is up)
>Back is flat (so the nose is very up??)
Is there a homemade way to make sure the rear wheel is centered when hooking it back? In before "sit on the bike and it'll slide in the middle" which is bullfuckingshit.
>>966597
er... what? Sight the gaps between the tire and the chainstays?
>>966597
Tape a ruler to the frame, ideally with the tire removed
>>966596
I guess ultimately you want whatever angle feels the most comfortable for you to ride on. Generally you want your saddle flat though so you are not getting weird slipping and rubbing.
Start with it flat then see how it feels and adjust from there if necessary.
>>966610
>>966598
I have this shit, that's why it's uneven.
>>966487
Why not just get a new front derailleur? They're pretty damn cheap.
>>966597
>sit on the bike and it'll slide in the middle
That's usually adequate, or just slide it all the way in and it's usually right.
If not, you can get a ruler and check the rim to chainstay distance on each side. Eye-balling it is usually fine.
And give it a spin to be sure.
>>966610
That's a pretty professional looking solution for something you'd whip up in your garage.
>>966487
>>966496
>>966509
>>966510
>>966550
>>966552
>>966584
>>966635
I apologise, i haven't been clear with my situation.
My bike originally comes configured as a 3x9 with Deore M590 shifters, SLX fd and RaceFace Ride crankset, bet the previous owner had converted it into a 1x with a narrow-wide toothed chainring. He gave me the original fd and shifter but he had gotten rid of the original chain rings.
Now i feel like converting it into a 2x with small and middle ring and i need to order new rings for that, but i don't feel like i want to spend the money on an outer ring i don't anticipate having any use for.
SHOULD I COP A:
UNIVEGA 12-Speed Vintage Maxima Sport
or a:
Shogun Cr Mo 400
Both are $120
>>966516
Everytime you don't wear a helmet you're taking an incredible risk that doesn't have to be! You bike long enough you eventually get hit (PROBABLY)
>>966663
The answer is yes you can run a triple FD on your triple crank with only 2 of the rings installed. You just have to set the limit screw to keep it from being able to shift into the nonexistent big ring.
>>966516
Ur retarded and as soon as something happens you will either die or be a retarded cripple. What's so bad about a helmet fucks sake.
My question:
I have a 300$ used bike, full Ultegra components, 8.5 kg, Shimano W500 wheels, new Conti tyres.
But I want to upgrade. Can't find any wheels that are lighter & more aero in the classifieds that are less than what I paid for the whole bike. A new frame would not give me as much advantage as a new wheelset. Maybe just a new (slightly used) saddle for ~50 $? Mine's looking like it's been abused a lot already. But I won't get any big advantage from that either. Maybe a new paint job? How much would that be you think? You think my LBS would install new shifting/braking cables, redo the crankset and headset bearings for <100$? The ones in the front look a bit rusty already.
I bought it used as I said, first road bike, and been doing ~2000K since last year.
Maybe I'll wait a little longer and get a 3.8 cm carbon Wheelset and a 1 kg carbon frame from China?
>>966516
Riding to work today saw an accident happening live today where a cyclist got rekt through no fault of his own. Car rammed into another car and made it shoot forward and he flew over the car's hood. Wore a helmet though and landed on it.
I've been in a car collision myself, though I did a great job falling and fell on my side on the asphalt, I wear a helmet now ever since. I would advise you to get one too if you ride in regular traffic... I am kind of upset when I see guys do over 30km/h on racebikes without helmets .. just start wearing a helmet when you go out riding seriously, it'll become like putting on shoes after a while
This may be a dumb question, I've ridden a racebike for quite a while but never with clipless pedals. I got them now, and after figuring out how to click in and out and not fall over, I'm kind of wondering how to actually best utilize them.
I've noticed you can just keep pushing down while locked in, or you can also make a concious effort to pull up with one foot as the other one is pushing down.
Should I just ride pushing down as I would before or is it a good idea to also make an effort to pull up the other pedal? What is the proper technique?
>>966789
This gets argued about quite a bit.
Basic pedaling technique doesn't change. No weight on the off pedal, all weight on the driving pedal.
Pulling up is for only emergency sprints, ala track racers.
What do you think of this for a road bike? Looks a little broad though...
>>966807
Sit on it. No one can decide how it feels for you. Every ass is different and we all like different saddles. Really, it's not something that you can just shop for online after just reading reviews or asking questions if other people think it's comfortable without trying it for yourself. You might get lucky, you might not.
>>966751
post pics
>>966751
Get the Shogun, because Shogun
>>966481
>Thanks a lot, anon. Nearest crankset I could get is a 44-32-22. Would that help? Might still be a bit on the slowish side for the middle chainring, tho.
If you are riding MTB the smaller 26" will help compensate for the smaller chainrings. But personally, if you are going to use it unloaded I would go 34 or 36 for the middle.
For reference, the Sugino XD 600 has a 36t middle, that's a popular road touring crank
But, Shimano XT, another popular one, is 24-34-42, so 32t might work okay
>>966819
>But, Shimano XT, another popular one, is 24-34-42, so 32t might work okay
Correction, XT is 32t middle. -- even better sign it will work okay
The more I think about it, unloaded you are going to be in your 42t a lot of the time anyways
>>966809
>You might get lucky, you might not.
Every saddle purchase ever.
>>966663
>converting it into a 2x with small and middle ring and i need to order new rings for that, but i don't feel like i want to spend the money on an outer ring
Woah, you're ditching the OUTER ring?
We could all understand tossing the granny gear, you almost never use it. But the outer one is where most triple riders live.
Also, not all triple setups will even let you drop the outer ring, it's often where the crank arm attaches too.
>>966795
>Pulling up is for only emergency sprints, ala track racers
There's also forward and backward as well. I tend to use some combination of those two when I start to get tired.
>>966781
Sounds like you got an astonishingly good deal. What generation ultegra is it, I'd assume since it's used and that cheap probably 10 speed 6700?
If you're looking to get faster for money, have you thought about buying skinsuit(s) or an aero road helmet?
Also maybe worth considering is for wheels unless you exclusively climb hills (or live in Wellington) a bit deeper is going to be better.
Is the current saddle comfortable? If it's fine might be worth trying to find a newer version.
We're back??
How much faster can I expect to be on a recumbent than on a normal road bike?
I live in the Netherlands so climbing is a non-issue, besides my old bike is likely as heavy as the recumbent.
Is this type of bag any good? Is it stable? I'm thinking of having a local shop guy make me something like this. Not that nice, of course, I just need something to reliably carry 4-6 1-liter bottles of milk 5 days a week, and something I can remove quickly before I go for nighttime and weekend leisure rides. I'm also considering a supplementary handlebar bag that carries ~2 bottles.
This new milk business looks promising but I'm not sure yet if I'll commit to a rack and panniers. If it matters, my ride is a steel road bike with touring-ish geometry, straight top tube, drop bars.
>>966966
Frame bags are good, and they've gotten more popular recently for use on mountain bikes for "bikepacking" where the extra width of traditional panniers is inconvenient.
But for transporting 1L bottles, I think you'd find that a traditional front rack or rear panniers/baskets would be easier to use: much faster to load/unload, more capacity, easier to secure the bottles so they don't jostle around as you ride.
>>966966
>my ride is a steel road bike with touring-ish geometry, straight top tube, drop bars
fixie detected
Wait...fixie fag, some sort of artisan milk business...
...you're selling Jonesy's milk aren't you?
Let me guess, you eat at B-East on Lygon st?
>>966966
I was worried about inner triangle bags (thought they would provide more surface area to be blown by crosswinds) but someone pointed out more weight in the inner triangle tends to lower your center of gravity and generally increases stability while providing the same surface area since panniers don't take up no space. Forgive that last clause, it's as pretty as I'm going to make it.
Your first concern is really that anything too wide will knock your knees or give you a generally funky knees out waddle.
Secondly, access might be harder than you expect. Front basket or back grocery panniers will have easier immediate access, even if it has a hinged lid. With the frame bag you would have to unhook it and somewhat carefully take it off to get into the contents.
Commiting to a custom job will probably cost you more than a flat rack with a milk crate bungled on. A divided crate will provide less chance of knocking over bottles as you finish deliveries if bottle return is less than milk drop off, greater capacity in case bottle return exceeds milk drop off, and anything vented will be easier to remove and clean in case of a spill.
>>966985
Also scalability, if your max order right now is 4 and your capacity is 6 one or two customers breaks your supply line and doubles your travel time without justifying two trips. If current load is 4 and your max capacity is 12 or 16 with a milk crate strapped on a back rack you are far less likely to need a return trip. You still have to scale up, but you have a greater growth period before you need to get double grocery panniers or a cargo bike.
>>966981
>he fell for the "caring about what other people ride" meme
>>966245
Should I buy a fixie for cross town riding, or tubeless tires for my mtn bike?
>>966988
Mocking hipsters is never wrong.
>>966985
>a flat rack with a milk crate bungled on
Topeak actually sell that. A super tourist MTX rack and a folding milk crate isn't a shit solution.
https://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Trolley-Tote-Folding-Basket/dp/B0033VNCTE
Use it with the topeak cargo net as well if you want added security.
A trunk bag is also a pretty good option, keep milk in the zip-out panniers and in the main compartment, I used to carry 6 litres and more in my shopping, I could nearly always fit a weeks shopping in the one bag.
I recently bought a new bike, and am riding again for the first time in many years.
I may have forgotten, but am I supposed to ride with traffic, or against traffic like a runner?
I've tried both, and motorists yell out their windows regardless, and in the same frequency.
Are motorists just dicks to cyclists? How do I minimize their autistic rage?
>>967006
With, very with
Yes
Open carry
>>967007
Ok. Thanks.
>>966980
>>966985
>>966992
I think I'm sold on the rear rack, then. Just need to find a nice one, doesn't have to be so heavy-duty. Quick-on quick-off is a pro.
>>966986
Right. I think rack + panniers will be my max tho. If I get there I should be ballin enough to hire someone else to do the other deliveries. Lots of fixedfags and roadfags in my town just looking for a reason to ride. Maybe I'll give them a stipend to buy their own rack or something.
How shit is this bike? I got it for free tho.
>>966990
What kind of town do you live in?
>>967056
About 120 000. lots of bike lanes and cagers are used to bikes. There's also really great trails though...
>>967048
Eh, could be worse.
>>967048
If it's rust-free in the brake/drivetrain/headset area I'd get new bar tape (5-10 $), and a decent used saddle (20-40 $); flip it for 100-150 $.
48-38-28 + 6 sp. 14/16/18/21/24/28
Any reason why when I go 48-18 and, to be specific, start pushing on the left crank, the chain rubs on the FD? It doesn't rub all the time, and not when I just spin, it specifically does when I push on the left crank and only in that particular moment, like
>silence [push] *VRRR* (spin) [push] *VRRR*
I used to ride a bike like pic related until now but soon I'll get a racing bike. When switching what are the biggest changes I need to be aware of, apart from adjusting my posture for the racing handle bar? Is there anything I need to do differently than riding a normal bike?
>>967048
>fixie
>"hey guys how shitty is this?"
When I shift gears on my road bike, the large gear that has 3 speeds sometimes almost gets stuck in between gears when I try to shift back up (towards the more difficult to pedal gear, whether thats called shifting up or down). I've even had the chain jump off the front large gear when shifting up
Is this a normal thing, to have like "half gears"? Or is there something wrong?
>>967115
Have you noticed if it happens if you don't put enough force behind the shifting? The last upshifting is hard as fuck no matter what, and even with indexing if you don't feed the trigger quite decisively it can get stuck.
>>966990
Cross town fixie is really fun.
How much more fun would tubeless make?
>>967081
pay attention to bike fit more... you will probably start spending more time on the bike.
you may notice that you are not used to drop bars and you will have to develop some previously unused muscles in your arms, as well as other areas.
The thinner tires get flats easier because of tire pressure and less weight distribution.
It takes some time to get used to a different geometry and the squirrly feel of the bike, this goes away though with more time on the bike.
You may find that you are uncomfortable at first, relax the fit to more casual and slowly changing it is less painful than trying to force fit into a position you arent flexable enough for.
>>967075
Frame flex?
>>967115
>the large gear that has 3 speeds sometimes almost gets stuck in between gears
You mean the chain ring.
It is not normal for the chain to get stuck between chain rings, it's usually nearly impossible, maybe you're using the wrong chain for the gear system, some are thinner than others.
Also, 3 chain rings on a road bike is pretty weird so you might be using the wrong chain ring for the bike too, you haven't given us enough information to work it out.
The chain coming off the largest ring when you shift up isn't that unusual, it just means that your deraileur limit screw needs to be adjusted.
Post pics of your bike, from the drive side, show the rear and front gears in close up.
>>967153
Yeah...fixie it is.
I fear this might be ono of those dumb questions, but:
How does a shifter barrel adjuster work?
>>967186
>How does a shifter barrel adjuster work?
It essentially makes the housing longer, which makes the cable relatively shorter.
So the brake is slightly 'pulled' before anything else gets done to it by your hand.
>>967207
Yeah, i got that for brakes. But i was asking about shifters. They don't seem to work the same way. They just spin round infinitely and don't seem to do anything.
>>967212
if your barrel adjusters are spinning infinitely it's probably because the threaded part of the adjuster is already fully extended and no longer engaged with the threads of the shifter/derailer
>>967212
>Yeah, i got that for brakes. But i was asking about shifters. They don't seem to work the same way
They do work the same way, yours might have a problem.
Can I fit an oval rail carbon fiber saddle on this seatpost?
>>967115
Read this article and make sure your derailleur is properly adjusted: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/front-derailleur-adjustment
Some front derailleurs also have a built-in trimming feature, which allows you to move your derailleur slightly without changing chainrings. This is beneficial to prevent the chain from rubbing on the front derailleur when you switch rear cogs.
>>967075
If your chain is rubbing in 48/18 then your front derailleur is probably not properly adjusted. Check rotational alignment, cable tension, high limit screw, and derailleur height.
>>967048
It belongs in a dumpster.
>>967006
With traffic, near the edge of the road, but not at the very edge. Leave a few feet to maneuver in case you have to avoid a cager, pothole, animal, etc.
>Are motorists just dicks to cyclists?
Yes.
>How do I minimize their autistic rage?
You literally can't. Just ignore them.
>>966905
An hero.
>>966789
In my *opinion*, it is best to do whatever feels natural.
>>966487
2-speed and 3-speed front derailleurs are designed differently with different size inner cage plates. It can probably work, but it will likely be less smooth than ideal. For more information, read http://sheldonbrown.com/front-derailers.html
>>966397
Brake hard then laugh at him when he crashes. Or swerve then immediately brake, forcing him to pass you before he even has time to react, then ride his wheel.
He helped you, though. Being drafted has the same effect as drafting, just at a much smaller level.
>>966374
>you're screwing it in at the wrong angle
>the threading on the bolt or the hole is dirty
>the threading on the bolt or the frame is stripped
Try greasing the threads on the bolt. Also try disconnecting the derailleur cable from the derailleur to make it easier to position when screwing it in. Take it slow, and if it is difficult, back the bolt all the way out and start over. Otherwise you will strip it.
>>966268
Rigid 90s mtb with semislicks. >>>/n/bbg
>>967048
$119 new
Crank and bottom bracket looks shot, stem looks dangerously corroded and same with bolts. Chain isn't rideable
Looks like it was found in a river then tossed into the garbage for landfill
>>967326
>bottom bracket looks shot
>bottom bracket isn't even visible
Post discarded.
>>967326
post bikes or gtfo
What's the best puncture resistant tyre? 700c/25. Would like to save as much cash as possible as I've gotta buy some winter gear, but yeah. Australia outback, so lots of catheads (thorns. big fucking thorns).
Speaking of winter gear. do i need to go cycle specific, or could i go for some base/thermal layers and any old waterproof jacket?
>>967359
Schwalbe marathon plus
>>967359
>Speaking of winter gear. do i need to go cycle specific, or could i go for some base/thermal layers and any old waterproof jacket?
Depends on which Australian winter you're riding in.
I used to do Melbourne in the pouring rain with some cycling/motorbiking overpants over lycra leggings and a high-vis long sleeved cycling jacket, also over lycra. Add a snowboarding neck/face/earwarmer (turtle fur) and some gloves.
Gloves were the problem in a long 25km commute, I'd wear snowboarding gloves when I started out but change to heavy mtb gloves after 10km, then to light gloves at about 20km. My fingers would be frozen stiff at 6:30am when I started out but they'd be sweating balls by the time I finished, had to keep changing gloves to try and keep them warm but not swimming in sweat.
I'd take off the turtle fur after a while too, same reason.
>>967359
>save as much cash as possible
My overpants, barrier jacket and most of my lycra came from Aldi. Even the lycra was actually motorbike under-armour stuff. Fantastic fitting gear, never had anything as comfy.
>>967360
Cheers, I'll have a look around. Ive probable got a few more weeks on my current tyres. They've just got a few holes that I'm worried about.
>>967361
nsw/vic border. Similar to melbourne weather. Mostly worried about the damp from fog and it's completely flat here, so can get rather windy.
I'm looking for some merino thermal base t-shirts. Had one for when I was working in a chiller all day. Very good and tend to repel st
Pants aren't an issue. I've got a pair of rain over pants for a motorbike. Should be fine for cycling - Ive never had chafe issues from riding.
Gloves are an issue. Small town so I have to buy online, but I've got weird hands. Fat as fuck fingers, wind hand but short fingers. A wind proof jacket and one of those tubes that you can wear around your neck or neck and over head should fill out my stuff.
Shit, I might be able to get all the clothes for under $300.
>>967362
I've never stepped into an Aldi before, but I might have to see where the closest one is if they're cheap.
>>967313
Don't think so senpai
>>967360
Wasn't aware they made those smaller than 32?
Are rim brakes a meme? Should I get disc brakes for road brakes? I'm confused as fuck...
>>967378
Do you go down hill a lot? Ride the brakes whilst going down hill?
>>967379
>Do you go down hill a lot?
75% around the city (commuting), 5% off road, 20% that may be considered as downhill hill road.
>Ride the brakes whilst going down hill?
Depends, if the speed is blow 40 mph then I just let slow down on its own, cornering on downhill = using brakes
>>967380
I *think* that disc brakes will not be absolutely worth it then.
>>967381
I'm a noob into the cycling and I'm on some 300$ road bike atm, but I'm looking forward to something more sophisticated and lighter in the future.
Pic related is related as comfy sport road bike, but it has rim brakes, do you think its possible to upgrade this type of bike to disc brakes later?
>>967384
Does it have the mounts for disc brakes?
>>967386
No idea
>>967387
Then probably not. It's probably not worth it anyway.
If you really wanted to and it doesnt have mounts, you could get a new fork and just have front discs.
>>967388
I see, well thanks for the input- I will leave the bike for further consideration though for foreseeable future
>>967389
How coe you want carbon brakes anyway?
>>967390
disc brakes rather.
>>967384
Memes aside
Disc brakes are intended for its own course of use, like MTB type of bikes, the use on road bike is quite odd to say at least unless you plan to use your bike on heavy rain weather or in the winter then disc brakes may come to some degree of value there, but don't be discouraged by rim brakes either, they are easy to work with (maintenance) and have very high performance nonetheless.
Here is the overview and comparison in RAW:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxmzlGeKPRY
Recumbent steering really is different.
First few minutes of riding I forgot how to steer and fell in grass.
It's really strange compared to a normal upright.
I think I also need to adjust the boom because I think my knees are locking.
Should I do that myself or go to a bike shop and let them help me?
It doesn't have a derailleur but an internal gear hub so I have a feeling the chain may be too short if I start adjusting the boom.
>>967363
>I've never stepped into an Aldi before, but I might have to see where the closest one is if they're cheap.
They're the cheapest big supermarket but for stuff like cycling gear, they only have it now and then. Basically when they can get it cheap from a supplier, they slap on of their non-food brand labels on it and sell it. So it can be pretty random what and when they have stuff.
>>967378
>Are rim brakes a meme? Should I get disc brakes for road brakes? I'm confused as fuck...
Disc brakes on road bikes are a meme but they aren't shit, just not really necessary. Hydraulic disc brakes are pretty sweet.
If you down hill a lot then sure, they're good for that.
>>967384
>do you think its possible to upgrade this type of bike to disc brakes later?
No, I don't *think* it's possible.
Disc brakes require special mounts on the fork and chain stays, on the non-drive side which we can't see in that pic. From what we *can* see, it looks like there aren't mounts on the front fork.
>>967445
>thing that only crazy people do
Only death wish people or suicidal enough are riding on their bikes in the rain or when the road is wet
>>967384
You could eventually replace the fork with a disc version, then put a BB7 road disc (or TRP Spyre road, if it exists?) on the thing. It's a big expensive project that you don't need to do.
Get a roadish bike that can take fenders, racks, etc. like a steel kona rove ST
disc, 1x, fat tires..... yeah man
>>967462
>fenders
Say whaa
>racks
pic related
How many cables do I get from this if I order quantity: 1?
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Road-bike-MTB-Bike-Fixed-Gear-Bicycle-Brake-Line-Shift-Shifter-Gear-Brake-Cable-Sets-Core/32362389862.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.1.BEGepa&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_10,searchweb201602_5_10017_507_401,searchweb201603_3&btsid=8cfc5563-c5c8-4cb6-8301-8e10ad85c9f4
>>967486
One, you have to message the guy to specify which one
>>967490
Alright, thanks. The pictures are misleading.
>>967492
That's the Chinese for yah
I just got back into riding after being out for two years due to a herniated disc. I want to build a new bike to celebrate. I already have a Team Miyata frameset that I want to use. I just need components. I'm thinking full Ultegra 6800. It's only an extra $90 to get Dura Ace shift levers instead of Ultegra. Is it worth it or will I not notice any difference?
Also, wheels. I don't race or anything so I don't need super light or aero wheels. My other bike has Mavic CXP33's on Ultegra hubs so I was gonna go with those again or Open Pro's. Any other suggestions? I don't like wheels with loud logos/graphics all over them.
>>967498
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DSDP_IpXQls
>>967511
So, same as it was a few years ago. Ultegra it is then.
How do i pace myself better?? Especially up hills.
Went for first group ride today. Was in the front when we started a climb. And was completely dropped 5 min later. Im sure my skills are up to par its just that i suck a pacing myself any tips?
>>967498
jesus, did somebody take a blowtorch to that top tube?
>>967537
I had it replaced.
>>967511
Thanks for absolutely no useful information whatsoever, hipster cap guy.
>>967498
>cxp33
>open pro
Both are severely outdated and basicaly flint lock pistols compared to modern road racing rims. Modern rims are much wider for reasons of both cornering stability and aerodynamics. I'll suggest H+Son Archetype or Pacenti SL23. Both are very aero while still being low profile, resembling the HED C2 cross ection but at a much lower price point.
The Velocity A23 is a very soft rim alternative that will take out a lot of road buzz, but not as aero as the other two. It does however come in an offset version that is great if you'll be building on moderns, low flange 11spd hubs.
I'd recommend it if you don't care about the aerodynamics but only ride comfort.
I would not in a million years kit an old steel frame in 6800 over 105 5800. The latter is just as good, costing hundreds less and only a few grams heavier. Saving <100g on the group when the steel frame is a full kilo (or more) heavier than a standard alu-with-carbon-fork frame doesn't make much sense to me.
I'd personaly prefer Campagnolo for their retro style or at least SRAM for a bit less of the rocket ship Shimano bling, but if you're not comfortable with eithers shifter mechanism I guess there's not much of an option.
Modern Shimano will never look as good on a retro bike as pic related though.
>>967538
ah, i see
going to have the frame re-painted?
or strip to bare chromoly and clearcoat over?
>>967498
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QdPefZ27Ne4
Is cutting down your handlebars to width a thing, like cutting down your steerer tube?
>>967469
I've never seen such a shit article posted here before. The guy is a fucking moron and cannot write.
Also, what relevance does it fucking have to any of these posts?
Did bacon rider write that? Is he still alive?
>>967681
The only time it's a thing is when you buy a MTB with insanely wide flat bars. It can sometimes be worth taking as much as an inch off both sides.
Otherwise, no.
>>966245
So, if I'm having to put my cantilever brakes up to the tighest peg, with the cable tight as I can pull it, and putting the brakepads close to the rim to get a good mechanical advantage, does it mean it's time for a new set of brakes? I've been fiddling with it for a while now, and I'm wondering if the spring is starting to give out on it. Finally got them in a comfortable position, but I'm wondering if I'm just going about this wrong or something else.
>>967535
Do you use a heart rate monitor? That's the cheapest way. Beyond that, a power meter.
I had a crank creak. I removed my bottom bracket, cleaned it and put it back together. The cups were loose.
Anyway, I adjusted the front derailleur so I can get back on the top ring at the front (I assume I had not aligned it perfectly and was too far “out”). BUT when on smallest at the back and changing to smallest on the front the chain won’t sit on the bottom front ring. It just slides between the two front chain rings and slides about unseated. If I am on middle or top range at the back the chain will go down onto the front bottom fine.
Should I take it all apart and start again? realigning the BB? I know this is a yes. What best to look for when doing this?
hey /n/, first time here
Is there any gear that is highly recommended for longer distance cycling (+50km)? I was thinking of getting a pair of baggy shorts / 3/4s, is it worth getting a pair designed for cycling or is it overpriced crap?
>>967730
I wear baggies and padding under that. Buy something better, your body will thank you later.
can overshifting be completly avoided? i am probably just stupid because sometimes i just crosschain too much, means i am on the second chainring shift down and then frontshift up which sometimes causes overshifting
Do fenders really help keep road grit off your drivechain?
i am not good at the whole derailleur thing.
bought a project bike on kijiji. neat little road bike but with 28mms instead of 23. as a result i'm having derailleur issues in part because I have no idea what the previous owner did here or what the problem is. shifting is imprecise; one click either won't move it at all or move it two at a time. i tried replacing the cables and adjusting the limit screws, but I can't seem to figure it out.
tl;dr: using wider tires in a given frame, how to unfuck derailleur?
>>967799
Tyres shouldn't have anything to do with it.
Is it not moving in one direction and skipping in the other? Have you tried the barrel adjuster?
>>967800
sorry, english is not my first language - I tried the barrel adjuster and it seemed to make no diference. and i mean not the tires, but the rims/wheels are wider too than stock too - does that make a difference? could it be the wheel dish?
>>967730
>ey /n/, first time here
>Is there any gear that is highly recommended for longer distance cycling (+50km)? I was thinking of getting a pair of baggy shorts / 3/4s, is it worth getting a pair designed for cycling or is it overpriced crap?
On long distance rides (100 miles +) for me...
> micro wool t-shirt, sucks up all the sweat
> micro wool socks
> ex officio box briefs (similar to above)
> visor... it's cool I swear
> polarized sunnies
spare t-shirt / underwear / etc recommended
I do long rides fine in cut-off jeans, but they've got nylon in them so they're flexy. I've tried bike shorts and hated them. My saddle is an selle anatomica so it's kinda like a leather hammock, results may vary but the one is fine in "normal" clothing for century rides
A lot of the time I wish I had a compass, because I refused to get a smart phone, and you'll definitely get lost with scribbled directions that say "turn on Road St in 10 miles" lol. Smart phone fixed that. Getting lost was fun sometimes, forces you to get off the bike and talk to the locals
Pounding sugary food like gatorade, cliff bars, and fruit will get you incredibly far on a bike. A year of no exercise and you can do 100 miles if you have enough sugar coming in
I recommend drop bars and flat/pinned pedals so you can shift your hands and feet around to give some muscle groups a rest periodically
Get a good front light, even for a long day ride, getting caught after sundown lost is a bad move
colorful shirt and bike highly recommended for safety. I spray painted my rear rack fluorescent yellow
weed for safe stretches
I'd strongly recommend a frame bag instead of panniers if you are not going overnight touring. efficiency loss with panniers is ~8% according to a recent post on cyclingabout, it adds up on a 10 hour ride
>>967801
>but the rims/wheels are wider too than stock too - does that make a difference? could it be the wheel dish?
it shouldn't be, unless they put MTB wheels on a road bike
make sure the chain, cassette, derailleur are clean. Old cassettes and chains will cause shifting problems (cassette teeth get worn down, chain stretches)
Make sure the cassette and shifter have the same number of gears (no 9 speed cassette on 8 speed derailleur)
a picture would help
>>967806
Aha.
they're mountain bike wheels. Mystery solved. Would replacing them with correct size road bike wheels solve the issue? Can I continue to use the hubs, tires, and cassettes? I'm running a 700x28mm continental touring plus tire.
>>967804
>I do long rides fine in cut-off jeans
opinion disregarded
>>967730
Aero Tech Designs SM010. You're welcome.
>>967778
Adjust your derailleurs.
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/front-derailleur-adjustment
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-adjustment
>>967794
A little, but they're meme-tier.
>>967799
See the links above
>>967801
Wheels make no difference
>>967808
No, wheels make no difference. Unless you switched cassettes too, in which case you should switch back to your old cassette.
>>967718
You shouldn't be cross-chaining. Even a perfectly adjusted drivetrain will generally have issues when crosschaining. When in your biggest chainring, avoid your biggest and second biggest rear cogs. When in your smallest chainring, avoid your smallest and second smallest cogs. Crosschaining causes premature drivetrain wear.
>>967708
Have you tried putting the pins in the middle holes and then tightening the adjustment screws all the way?
If that doesn't work then there's nothing wrong with using the tightest holes for the pins. No need to replace the brakes yet as long as they're working well the way you have them adjusted.
>>967498
SRAM>Shimano
>>967434
>recumbent
>>>/toy/
>>967378
Disc brakes are generally better, but they are not allowed in some races.
Can you make profit off customizing a bicycle? Like these cheap rusted frames on craigslist and just going from there?
>>967820
Depends how much your time is worth.
>>967828
im a lonely loser i got alot of time
>>967820
the only way to make that kind of thing work is by scouting garage/estate sales for bikes that are in reasonably decent condition, do a quick clean and lube, and then flip them, and it's still really a fucking marginal way to make money
>>967809
>but they've got nylon in them
>>967808
>they're mountain bike wheels.
> I'm running a 700x28mm continental touring plus tire.
You MIGHT be running mtb wheels but if your tires are 28c they probably aren't.
Look at the hubs and tell us the make / model
If they are 135mm MTB hubs on 29er rims on a road bike then the chain stay spread could but fucking up your shifting
Also the make/model of the bike. If it is touring or cyclocross the rear is probably 135mm so there is no issue
But this is probably not the problem
>>967838
>im a lonely loser i got alot of time
Without intensive knowledge of the classic/vintage market, you'll be lucky to break even on bike sales imho
How do I make money from biking? I made cheapbicyclelights.com to sell affiliate products, but I know there is a better way, or a better niche to fill. Any recommendations?
>>967886
You don't- you spend it.
Alternately you could charge Freds $30 to change a tube.
Currently I've got a Armbit 2 R that I use to track my runs and rides. It works well enough, even if alittle annoying when on the bike. But I think it's time to update.
Is there a gps cycle computer that can also connect to a phone and/or ipod and control the music? Just a pause and next feature would be enough.
>>967886
brainstorm ideas for bike accessories and kikestart the dumbest one
>>967622
I'm open to try other brands for the groupset. I've just always had Shimano on my bikes. Athena or Force both look like good options in the same price range. I agree that the current shimano offerings look pretty bad especially in the crankset area.
Originally I was thinking I would buy a pre-built wheelset but I remembered that there's a class taught near me on wheelbuilding that I've always wanted to take. If I do that then I can go with any wheel parts so I'll look into your suggestions.
>>967628
It's been clearcoated.
>>967551
Yeah, I had it built up with modern stuff a few years ago then I got a Miyata 1400 frame in basically new condition which I switched everything over to. This one has just been sitting with an old Shimano 600 group and worn-out wolber wheels on it.
>>967730
Real cycling shorts are only like $25 on Nashbar.
I was looking for another saddle and tried to measure my sitbones. It came out like 11cm. At the moment I'm using a 128mm Saddle but I think it isnt that comfortable. Now someone from /n/ told me to take a look in saddles like romin, toupe and so on... The romin looks nice and comfy and I've read that you should choose a saddle like sitbones measured for racing... But the romin saddle starts at 143mm .... Thats a lot wider... Does that make any difference?
And... Do I have to go into a shop and let my seat bones measured and try some different saddles and so one or is online buying one saddle I like is ok?
>>967813
>Veganrider
>Recumbents should go to /toy/
Fuck off
what oil? using the simple crap currently, but need something that would stand up to rain and not be too sticky
I live in the netherlands and would appreciate leads on where to order
>>967869
late 80s raleigh delta road bike
alex DM18 rims
continental touring plus tires
>>967971
it says the rims are 29er or 700C. i know very little about mtb specifications
So I run a gusset external lower cup headset on a 44mm headtube in order to run tapered forks.
I need to replace the bearing.
but I really don't get which one to get.
the support told me it needs to be 45x45 IS52
and sent me this as an example
http://www.bicyclehero.com/gb/cane-creek-headset-bearing-52mm-45x45-black-oxide.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwp-S6BRDj4Z7z2IWUhG8SJAAbqbF3nC3YU1t79POGlWI-0QoBS_0rhv-s3g9GqiG8Ut0_aBoCmmPw_wcB
I have a 5€ coupon for ebay and would like to order there.
will this one work ?
http://www.ebay.de/itm/231683276708?euid=00550d1c8b6e455a9d854b82dd2684e7&bu=43613674309&cp=1&sojTags=bu=bu
Does chain oil deteriorate with time?
If i lube up my chain and then leave the bike in storage for a few months or a year or however long, will i have to lube the chain again when i get it out of storage?
>>967983
is there anywhere to get these plastic parts? or similar? can only find in sets
>>967804
Thanks that's really helpful. I'll probably get a couple of small panniers anyway. I'll be cycle touring so there's no way I'll fit all my shit in just a frame bag.
>>966245
What is the current best multi tool on the market /bqg/
>>968275
Crank brothers M17/M19 are pretty good. I'm also always impressed with the quality of Lezyne stuff.
>>968275
>>968277
>Crank brothers
Cute... but nothing spectacular.
There is a combo that surpass everything in term of use, durability, and multi purpose tool for daily use, not only for bikes in general.
Topeak Ratchet Rocket Lite DX (pic related)
...and small chain tool that you can place inside ratchet case, its compatible with 11 speed chain:
Topeak Link 11 Folding Chain Tool
>>966245
What to do about a bad chainline? I want a budget solution, as it's a 6 bolt fixed cog installed on hub in place of a disc brake rotor. It's a temporary for-fun thing, so I'm not investing in new hubs or BB/crankset. Would a multi-speed chain be good enough solution, as it's made for diagonal chainlines? Are bottom bracket spacers considered a bad practice for fixing chainline (I mean there's possibly less contact area for BB/frame threads, and if I put the spacer on only drive side, it causes asymmetry in cranks' Q factor)?
Intentionally buying a bike frame undersized for you...
Pros:
- Lighter
- More responsive
- Stronger? Not sure, opinions seem to vary
What are the cons? My cross bike is a 54cm, and I'm thinking of building a dedicated road bike for racing (which I do on my cross bike right now but it's not as ideal), and thinking about getting a 51cm frame.
>>968275
if you're like me and want a very simple tool, the Park MT-1 is great
>>968320
If you have an external bearing BB, then yes a spacer on the crank spindle is the easiest answer (assuming it's the cog that's currently too far to the outside), for square taper you should be able to find an inexpensive wider spindle without any difficulty. If the cog needs to move outwards just add six tiny washers.
>>968468
Cons:
increased chances of toe overlap
needing an unusually long/tall stem
long stem can produce twitchy steering
on a very small frame your weight may end up being concentrated over the back of the bike
>>968476
I've got toeverlap on the cross bike already. Honestly I've never seen it as a problem. As for the stem, based on some calculations I'm doing I think I want a -17 stem anyway.
>>968476
>>968479
Toe overlap is a problem when you're going near walking speeds. I asked a question about ideal front-center to prevent toe-overlap on a frame-builder's forum one time, and got all sorts of snarky answers about how toe-overlap isn't a problem, and I should consider getting fit instead of buying a custom frame.
I told them this happens on 18-20% grade (measured, I went out there with a protractor and a level) climbs I have around here at 200w+ when I get tired and have to climb seated which results in a speed of 3-4mph. That shut them up really quick.
Turns out not even expert frame builders know any shit about toe overlap. Because they want to deny it's a problem so they can use standard 73 head angle lugs and compensating for toe-overlap by altering front end geometry is too much for them, and most of their customers are fat people (the kind they made fun of) that don't climb.
So it's not a problem if you don't climb the steep stuff. When you're tired and wobbling pushing over 200w and still only going 3-4mph, then yes, it's really annoying.
I'm 6'0 195 looking for a BMX bike to throw in the back of my truck and take to cities to bar crawl on. I'm on a budget so what would you guys recommend? I know about nothing when it comes to BMX bikes
>>968482
I do have some steep climbs here (sustained grades of 11+%) and I still don't feel like I've ever had a big problem with toe overlap.
>>968487
I don't think you understand what steep is. I literally gave you the % grade it's a problem.
>tfw giant fucking feet and toe overlap will always be a problem
What are some lightweight road bikes that can take full fenders? I commute all year round, but I still like to have fun on the same bike.
>>968501
>fenders
check this pleb out
>>968506
Fair Weather Fred
>>968506
Hell yeah you fuckin know it I want those full fenders.
Seriously, getting fenders on my bike was the best decision I ever made in terms of making my bike better.
>>968501
>commuting isn't fun unless it's on a 12 pound garbon weight weenie bike
maybe you should consider what you're going to do when there's an inch of snow on the ground and you don't have clearance to mount winter tires and your fenders aren't providing enough coverage for all the slush you're churning through
>>968501
You can use SKS Raceblade Long fenders with just about any bike, but if you want honest to fuck full fenders, something like a Soma Smoothie or Gunnar Roadie. Check with them for how much clearance you can get...I know that on a Rivendell Roadeo, you can go up to 32c with fenders, and those bikes are very samey.
>>968510
I've been looking at steel bikes like that, and their more mass produced counterparts like bikes from All City. Why aren't large manufacturers putting these features in their road lineups? It's a total bummer that the only way to get commute-ready features on a sporty bike is going for one of those trendy "adventure" style setups.
>>968509
I've done fine in winters on my current setup of a 25lb full aluminum bike w/ 32s and fenders
>>968514
Some do. Trek makes the 720, and Bianchi will probably never stop making the Volpe.
retard here
what are the best tubes for 26" mountain bike
>>968550
tubes are tubes.
if you want "the best" you upgrade to tubeless.
>>968551
do i need new wheels for that
>>968552
most bikes sold in the past couple years seem to come with tubeless ready rims. check your model online and see if it is compatible.
What can I do if every time I ride my bike for >30 minutes my dick goes numb? I feel like I'm riding in a pretty good position, my back's flat/arched to get the glutes involved, too, and it's not a cushioned saddle hardly at all.
Is there anything I can do about this, or is this simply a case of stand on the pedals when it happens and wait for it to go away?
>>967622
Now that I think of it, what's stopping me from using every piece of the Ultegra/105 x800 group except for the crankset since the rest of it looks just fine? Is the compatibility still there with the 11-speed groups? I know in the past I could easily use any 9 or 10-speed crankset from SRAM or Shimano on a Shimano 10-speed group.
>>968577
You need a different saddle that puts less pressure on your perineum. If you're not getting any other soreness, the likely place to start would be a saddle with similar shape to what you have now but either with a cutout, or one slightly wider under your sitbones.
>>968577
Post a drivetrain side picture of your bike
Is there any difference in frames between caliper and disk brakes? How much work can i expect for a switch to disk?
>>968609
some bikes sold with v-brakes had disc tabs on the dropouts, as higher-end models of that same bike would have disc brakes. If that's the case with your frame, it's pretty easy. If not, there are adapters like the A2Z DM-UNI.
You'll also need new wheels and a new fork, obviously. Getting a fork that supports thru axles is a plus.
>>968614
I'm looking to rebuild a 90s MTB, will probably need the adapter but was looking to change wheels, anyway. Not sure about the fork. Never been fond of front brakes anyway, might just leave the calipers on and have a Frankenbike.
Winter commuting in the pouring rain 100km/week. Oil the chain every night to keep it from rusting, wash off the grit every weekend. How long before the chain's fucked?
For that matter, I use water and dish soap in one of those pull-through chain cleaners. Is that bad?
>>968616
>never been fond of front brakes
>>968616
>Never been fond of front brakes anyway
If you want to die so badly your parents could've used Schwalbe professional condoms to prevent your existence anyway.
Your father was daft as he didn't wrap his shaft
>>968656
oh man i need those...would make peeing on a ride so much easier. when i'm done, i could just chuck the pee water balloon at a cager.
>>968656
Fuck of Frontflip Shill
>>968616
>Never been fond of front brakes anyway
You're not very good, are you.
>>968501
>lightweight road bikes that can take full fenders
Look at CX or hybrids, depending on whether you want drops or flat bars.
>>968468
It worked for Midosouji
>>968468
It's absolutely retarded to deliberately do this unless you want an extremely aggressive saddle to bar drop. It all round makes a worse riding bike.
>>968674
how long is that stem supposed to be ?
>>968468
It's really preference. Personally i find an undersized frame gets me into a more agressive position. Which is nice for racing, but bit uncomfortable.
>>968550
Just buy the slime rubes available everywhere and air them up higher than you normally do to help avoid pinch flats. Going tubeless is an option but you're going to need a compressor so you don't have to spend a ton of time pumping them up after you let the bike sit for a while
>>966245
Any good guides when it comes to setting cleats and shoes up?
My bike's squeaking, but only when it's ridden and being pedaled at a low, inconsistent rpm, while in a lower gear.
I've tried the chain, derailleur pulley and crank and it keeps happening.
>>968723
Lube all the moving parts of your rear derailer.
>>968695
250mm-300mm?
Sorry for the shit quality, but can anyone tell just from the picture how big the cage is? Would it take a 28t cassette?
>>968700
I think GCN has a video about cleats and shoes
I'm going to build my own road bike. Are there any good websites (UK, ideally) that sell high quality parts? I'm happy with new and NOS.
>>968735
A short cage derailleur can take a 28t cassette so whatever that one is, yes.
>>968738
wiggle.co.uk
chainreactioncycles.com
merlincycles.com
>>968476
Yeah, it is external BB and the cog's too far out, so I'll try the BB spacers then, thanks!
hey a/n/ons, is there a thing you can add to your brake cable that makes a canti lever work with a v-brake similar to how a jtek shiftmate works for shifters?
if not, OK, replace the lever. problem is this frankenbike only has one V so I don't need 2 levers, can I get them singly anywhere new or just co-op/ebay?
How much better are current Campagnolo components to ones 5–10 years old? I could either buy a new 10 speed Veloce groupset for ~£300 or old 9 speed stuff for half that and spend extra on wheels and other bits.
>>968791
I'd also like to know about this. Fuck cantilevers.
>>968792
9 speed is cheaper to maintain as long as parts are available, but I find I really do miss that extra 1-tooth shift.
>>968791
>>968799
You guys want one of these
http://www.jensonusa.com/Problem-Solvers-Travel-Agent
You can get them in the L bend that sits in the v-brake or an inline that interrupts the cable and goes on the frame somewhere
>>968821
I put the these on a cross bike I was building. Went from flat bar linear pull brakes to brifters. They work well.
>>968723
>but only when it's ridden
That's often a sign that frame flex is involved somehow. Check for some rubbing somewhere.
whats the deal with disc brakes on road bikes nowadays? are they really that superior?
>>968792
Newer Chorus and above is outstanding, and is an improvement over older stuff. There were some major changes in 2015, especially to front shifting. The hood shape is still the best in the biz.
Athena is good, except for the PowerTorque cups that require a special tool, and Quickshift (Athena + Chorus levers is the way to go here, if that matters to you as much as it would to me) being a thing that exists.
Dunno about Potenza aside from it being more Quickshift bullshit.
Chorus is more or less the best group that they sell, with Record and above being bling, as usual. I don't think I'd bother with 10sp Veloce if you can get 9sp Veloce('06 or older, as newer has the Escape shit)/Chorus/Record for the same price.
Can someone give me the idiot's run comparisons between 4xxx and Reynolds steel frames?
If a company does heat treating, would they normally brag about it on their specs page?
How does triple butting or double butting affect the strength and weight?
>>967886
Become a sponsored professional racer.
>>967944
Go to a shop. Ask one of the people there to help you pick out a saddle.
>>967955
You want wet lube if you ride in rain. As long as you wipe off your chain after applying the lube, it won't be too sticky. Apply lube, let sit for 10 minutes, then wipe it down. No lube should be left on outside of chain; the point of lube is to get into the internals of the chain links.
This is great stuff: http://road.cc/content/review/12256-green-oil-chain-lube
I like Dumonde's products a lot as well.
>>967983
Yes, lube your chain if it's been sitting for a few years. Make sure to use bicycle-specific lubricant. Apply it to the chain, let it sit for 10 minutes, then wipe it off. After this the chain should be completely dry. The lube just has to sink into the internals of the links, the outside of the chain should be dry.
>>968485
Rigid 90s mtb with semislicks. >>>/n/bbg
Fuck BMX bikes.
>>968507
Yep, the guy who wants fenders is Fair Weather Fred. Scared of mud puddles. Anyone who isn't a faggot rides during storms and realizes that they will get rained on regardless, making fenders pointless. Fuck fenders.
>>968550
Brand doesn't really matter. Just get the right width and valve stem. I like SunLite tubes but it doesn't matter, that's just my preference.
>>968577
Cycling shorts. Aero Tech Designs SM010 are good and cheap.
>>968609
Don't put disc brakes on a frame/fork designed for rim brakes. Disc brake frames/forks have to be stronger to withstand the forces applied to them by braking with disc brakes. (Unless of course they already have disc brake calliper mounting tabs as the other anon said, in which case they are designed to be compatible with both.)
>>968632
>How long before the chain's fucked?
1000-3000 miles
>For that matter, I use water and dish soap in one of those pull-through chain cleaners. Is that bad?
Use degreaser.
>>968700
The instruction manual that comes with the pedals.
>>968936
Yes.
>>968821
anon delivers!
many thanks, dude.
>>968936
yes.
Good helmet around $50? Basically don't want anything garish.
Also, looking for decent pedels, Any recommendations for clipless with platforms on other side?
>>968978
Just go clipless or don't having both is a pain in the ass.
>>968982
I have clipless. I love them for my rides where riding is the only goal.
However, if I'm quickly ducking to the shops, a friends house, or riding somewhere because I don't feel like driving, it's a pain in the arse.
What about having both is a pain? Right now my pedals only clip in on one side so i need to fiddle with them a bit when first clipping in. Should be much the same as half and half pedals. Right?
>>968990
If you have one-sided pedals now I assume they're SPD-SL or something like that which are counter-weighted to keep fiddling to a minimum. If you're using regular SPD one-sided pedals which are super ghetto then you already know how annoying they are so if you're cool with that then go ahead and get the ones with platforms on one side.
I tried the Shimano A530 pedals for a while and they were too annoying to be worth it. SPD shoes aren't that bad to walk in.
>>968994
The pedals aren't too bad. Takes me all of 1 second maybe to get them orientated to clip in.
Might just buy a new bike. I like buying new things.
Or just change pedals before each ride. That's not a huge deal, although I would worry about the threading being damaged.
>>968936
Since they don't make hydraulic brakes for drop bars, is distaste for mechanical discs just a meme?
>>969011
They make hydros for drop bars. Shimano have 11speed shifter that are non series with hydro levers, I think SRAM now have hyrdraulic bits for etap as well, not sure about the rest.
>>968978
What kind of a bike/pedal are you looking to buy?
If you get a mountain bike pedal then you can walk places in those shoes no problem at all.
>>968945
>Yep, the guy who wants fenders is Fair Weather Fred. Scared of mud puddles
When you're riding to a job interview, fuck being covered in mud.
>>968978
>Any recommendations for clipless with platforms on other side?
SPDs have both on both sides. Exactly what a newbie wants.
>>968994
>SPD shoes aren't that bad to walk in
A lot of SPD shoes are very comfy to wear all day, the touring and CT40s especially.
This got no attention in BBG:
Parts list for a bike I'm planning to build up for next season. Anything I'm missing/wrong on or should the final weight be pretty accurate? Anywhere I could shave some grams without spending a pile of extra cash (and in fact, any savings I can eke out?)
>>969113
Isn't that a pretty heavy and mediocre frame to be putting the absolute top of the line shit on?
>>969114
oh it's some steal is reel thing
why not get the 28s though if the frame can take 'em?
>>969116
Rode 28s last year, on 25s this year. Don't really notice any difference and the 25s are lighter.
And yeah, I have a carbon CX bike. Want something different for the road bike.
>>969124
You're looking at a 2kg frame, do you seriously care about 20g on the tyres?
And don't give me the rotating mass meme pls
Can you restore brake levers to their former glory by polishing down the scratched surface? The way you'd do an old steel fork. Specifically, Gambagnolay :DD levers.
>>969113
People actually buy these electronic groups?
so yesterday I got an old Schwinn world(similar to pic) and I want to make it into a townie with 700C, any tips on what rear wheels could work, also there's no rear derailleur hanger so any help on what I could get would be nice
>>969127
If they're raw aluminum and not chrome-coated, yes. Buy five or so different grades of sandpaper (the last one being the finest you can find) and go from harshest to smoothest, then finish off with Brasso. Take your time with it.
>>969131
>four batteries
>genius
Huge pain in the ass.
>>969131
Oh, I can't ride right now. My bike needs to charge.
>>969151
Said no one ever
>>969151
S'why I'll buy a spare battery. Literally the worst possible case would be that you swap the FD battery to the RD and then just man up if it gets hilly.
>>969152
Remember that watch you threw away because you were too lazy to change the button cell? Yeah.
The electronic groups are really nice technology with clear benefits for racers. I just hope they don't push out conventional cable shifters in the long-term. I enjoy having nice bikes with nice components, but I don't want the extra hassle that comes with Charging Muh Bike.
>>969162
That's not a fair comparison. The electronic groupset battery is charged, not replaced, and it charges very fast, and lasts for very long. You can just plug it in when you're cleaning your bike, or lubing your chain, which you'll be doing more frequently than you'll need to recharge your groupo.
>>969162
I still wear a watch.
>>969162
"I have to charge my iphone? This is bullshit, into the trash."
>>969131
I just can't deal, man. It's fundamentally stupid to use electric motors on a bicycle. I ride my bike to get away from that type of shit.
>>969177
>One rechargeable for each of the derailleurs, and one button cell for each of the shifters.
Shit, I had no idea. Is this the case for Shimano Di2 too?
>>968978
Giro Revel
>>969184
Di2 is just one battery. Not sure about Campagnolo's EPS. I believe it may be 1 battery. Neither of those groups have the wireless functionality or customizeable shifting points that Sram does.
So there are tradeoffs.
Like I said, it's racer tech. And it's pretty hot racer tech at that. I admire the technology without having any desire whatsoever to have it on one of my own bikes.
>>969141
You can get claw adapters that allow you to put on regular derailleurs.
>>969177
Well not all of us want to live in the fucking woods and wipe our asses with tree bark.
>>969197
Complexity for the sake of complexity does not equal sophistication.
>>969199
Wearing a watch that requires a battery doesn't equal complexity for the sake of complexity either.
Is there somewhere available a kind of table of gear combinations and their orderings?
New to racebikes, I figured out 50/34 is my crankset, and I've got 10 sprockets of various teeth that go from most to least.
The bike shop told me that I can't use the outer gears together as it will strain my chain too much, so I want to avoid that. Generally I ride on the big chainring and the middle of the rear sprockets pretty comfortably, but when there's a lot of wind I need to get into a lighter gear and I worry if I stay on the same chainring I cross my chain too much, and if I shift to the small chaingring I feel like I can't get a good enough speed because the gear is too light or if I have to cross my chain too much the other way
>>969141
Nexus IGH
>>969114
>calling a ritchey frame 'mediocre'
>ever
>>969208
http://www.gear-calculator.com/
>>969214
Thank you. very useful. I will print it out and put it on my bike
>>968498
try a 650B conversion, friend
>>969215
You're over-thinking it. You likely just need closer gear spacing on your cassette if you're mostly riding flats and shifting to deal with wind.
>>969220
Maybe... I do the same route every day and I've got pretty bad knees. When I started riding I was kicking a fairly slow cadence of about 75 in a heavy gear for a week weeks, and now I want to make sure I kick about 90 as that's supposed to strain my knees less. I do the same avg speed but with higher cadence now than I used to and my knees feel less strained
this little diagram should help me get the hang of things even more I think
>>969223
What would you suggest as an alternative in that approximate price range that isn't chinese carbon? And Ritchey has been building frames since 1972.
>>969240
Get on craigslist or ebay and find a nice used Serotta, Colnago, Merckx, or any number of older, better and more interesting frames.
>>969240
>Ritchey has been putting their label on frames since 1972
If you're buying carbon, there is well over a 99% chance that it's Taiwanese. All of Ritchey's carbon most definitely is.
Not sure off the top of my head about alternative framesets. If I were building today I'd be building a Crux, but that doesn't really help you...
>>969240
You could get a Ridley frame http://www.competitivecyclist.com/ridley-road-bikes?p=attr_buildtype%3AFrames%5C%2FCustom%5C+Builds&nf=1
>>969199
>Complexity for the sake of complexity does not equal sophistication.
Electronic shifting is complexity for the sake of sophistication and batteries for the sake of the complexity.
It's fine not to like batteries on your bike but don't pretend it's unnecessarily complicated, it serves a purpose.
>>969216
I get overlap on my fugging 26" mtb and Miyata 615 so I've almost given up on ever attaining the carefree lifestyle of those without overlap. Maybe a 650B low trail Heinebike would work?
I lost a ball bearing in my headset, should i just leave it? or will problems come if i dont find it.
Pic related but not mine.
After a short 8 mile ride my bike was getting easier to pedal the problem is I had to pedal more often to go the same distance as before. Anyone know what the problem is?
>>969398
>After a short 8 mile ride my bike was getting easier to pedal the problem is I had to pedal more often to go the same distance as before. Anyone know what the problem is?
You shifted gear.
>>969211
I own a Nexus 8 and it feels very utilitarian. Makes wee rumbling noises as the gears mesh and unmesh, though that is less heard, and more felt through the frame as you're riding. I like it a hell of a lot, you should try getting one if you have the money to burn. Be warned, it feels like industrial equipment compared to a good chain and derailer set. I don't mind it, since I was building a utility bike anyhow!
I recently bought a gmc Denali and I was wondering if I'd be able to put quick releases on it. Is there anything that would keep me from doing that? What are some things I should take into account?
>>971054
>I recently bought a gmc Denali and I was wondering if I'd be able to put quick releases on it. Is there anything that would keep me from doing that? What are some things I should take into account?
If the axles bolt on, you can't change that. Unless you get a new set of wheels that have QR axles
It's unfortunate with these bikes because crackheads seem to have access to adjustable wrenches and steal them all the time
![324_1663826537[2].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/810M4oY.jpg "324 1663826537[2]")
