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You are currently reading a thread in /n/ - Transportation
You are currently reading a thread in /n/ - Transportation
Bike Questions General - /bqg/. Same OP as before edition.
Does this general have a pasta? I couldn't find any archieve with /n/.
Has anyone here owned a Diamond Back Topanga? I bought this one for 40€, in fairly good shape. As far as I know all the frame is chromoly except for the rear triangle.
I'll be putting on it some new Shimano cantis, Schwalbe Marathon tires and a road handlebar with new stem and brake levers. I will do some light touring on it (no panniers) during spring and summer, while keeping it as a commuter for the rest of the year.
It currently has a 3x7 groupset and basic, single-wall rims. If I go on any long tours I will probably build a new wheelset with Novatec hubs and ZTR rims, as well as upgrading the groupset to 3x9, probably with downtube indexed shifters. Does this sound as a good idea?
>Does this general have a pasta?
Nope, but you could take a shot at making some.
I guess I have a question, has anyone here ever refinished a carbon crankset? I may be getting some Red cranks that are scuffed up, I've had one suggestion that they can be cleaned up by sanding clean then respraying with clearcoat - does that sound like BS or has anyone here tried it?
Pic tangentially related, if this arm hadn't failed I wouldn't be looking to swap cranks around on my fleet.
>>937768
Yep, you're on the right track, that'd make a fine bike for light touring with a better wheelset. I wouldn't recommend going to dt shifters on that bike though, you'd have to rig up new cable stops to do it and odds are the geometry of that frame isn't going to make them easy to reach in any case.
What makes a "good" groupset? How does an ultra so better than say, a 105? Is it Mainly weight ?
>>937793
Trickledown incremental gains.
You really have to look at the specifics of each groupset and from each year. Some differences are weight, stiffness. Others are more noticeable. Like 11 speed cassettes and all that.
Typically 105 is a good baseline group. You get the most value for features and it is usually more than enough for a typical rider.
I bought a frame off craigslist with intentrions of converting it to a single speed. Do i need to order a new BB? The length on there is 68x118 mm (for a double) WHat length should i replace it with?
>>937768
Tbh dude I'd keep the stem as you'll want the height for touring and then get some drops or maybe on one mungo bars. Also bar ends are the way to go for that set up.
should I continue to sink money into my Centurion Dave Scott Ironman Expert?
Bought it in great condition for $220 and have sunk another ~$150 in new wheels, new bar tape, rear wheel truing, and lights.
Frame is in fine condition, no cracks, and have never crashed while I have owned it. No issues yet, but is it worth it to continue to upgrade it, i.e. change out the bottom bracket, new drivetrain, etc., or should I just save up for a new bike?
Thanks!
>pic related is not my bike btw
>>937834
I wanted to say no because of the faggy color, then i continued reading. If it ain't broke, why fix it? I run my components to the ground before replacing them.
is there a significant difference between a 105 and an ultegra set (except for the weight)?
>>937834
Hell yes. Those were amazing bikes. New wheels and BB would be the first things I would look into. I would keep the drivetrain as is until something breaks. After that I would throw modern STI levers on it and do a 10/11 speed setup.
You'll do as well on this bike as you would on any contemporary aluminum road setup. And it looks sexy to boot.
>>937860
In my opinion, no. I've rode 105 5800 and Ultegra 6800 and the actuation feels the same. At the same time, I've heard people with a bit more experience than I have tell me it IS different.
Don't know if there's a difference with the hydraulic disc versions.
>>937760
>I couldn't find any archieve with /n/.
http://www.archiveteam.org/index.php?title=4chan
fgts.jp
>>937839
>customer has a singlespeed with a chainring like that
>"I think you guiz need to lube my chain"
>mfw this has happened a dozen times already
Dutch people really are dumb as hell
Using corks as barplugs on a beater ots halal? If haraam: too ghetto or too hipster?
I get the feeling people used to find my bike prettier, but maybe it's the overall degeneration that led me to need to replace the plugs rather than the plugs themselves.
Not my pic.
>>937890
Too hipster. It's like twine. It's fake-retro. Oooh, it looks crude and stupid, so retrotastic. No one ever used twine. No one ever used twine to wrap their bars. Twine used in place of finishing tape is a modern invention because faggot retro hipsters don't know how to wrap bars with cloth tape. They've had real bar plugs since at least the 30's. Dedicated bar plugs have been around for about as long as taped bars, and before hooded brakes. If you want something higher quality, get expanding plugs. If you lost a cap and have nothing else to replace it with, yes, you can try stuffing a cork in there.
>>937890
IMHO corks as bar ends look like you stuffed trash into your bars, unless the visible end is wide and matches diameter of the wrap, or if they're trimmed to sit flush with the end of the bar.
>>937891
>if you lost a cap and have nothing else to replace it with, yes, you can try stuffing a cork in there.
Yes. The ones that come with the tape are too big. Will keep them then until a replacement falls on my lap.
>>937892
> or if they're trimmed to sit flush with the end of the bar.
Will try to hammer them in a bit more, can't really trim them since they're cheap composite cork. They do look like trash, much less clean than the pic, like actual trash from a dumpster.
>>937890
that wouldnt be /terrible/ if you could either pound those in to be flush or trim them to be flush
>>937864
Now i feel like an idiot for immediately dismissing that site because it's wiki.
>>937770
>Nope, but you could take a shot at making some.
I'm very new to cycling so all i can come up with is:
Bike Questions General - /bqg/
>General info
http://sheldonbrown.com/
>Mechanic guides
http://www.parktool.com/
https://www.youtube.com/user/parktoolcompany
>Building a frame
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCqQaFLkweCgviyj_E0VEy9Q
If you want help to buy a bicycle go to the /bbg/ - Bike Buying General
Help me improve this sketch
>>937890
You need to use champagne cork, not wine cork. It will have bulbous head th matches thickness of bar with tape.
>>937908
add in RJ for mechanic guides
https://www.youtube.com/rjthebikeguy
>>937839
>ohshitniggerwhatareyoudoing.wav
>>937834
I've had a centurion, a bridgestone, a miyata, all roughly equal from that same bikeboom sweetspot of the mid 80s. I think the Centurion and the Miyata were both excellent bikes that could go toe to toe with my 531c and Columbus SL whips. The Bridgestone I wasn't crazy for, I still don't know why people are so eager to hop on the Rivendell dick.
You'd be insane to consider dumping a good condition Ironman Expert, continue using it until it dies(probably never.)
is this bike a good deal?
https://denver.craigslist.org/bik/5459771580.html
>>937929
There's nothing really special about that bike, but if just you want a cheap way to try out a fatbike and see if you'd actually want to spend time riding one it would be okay.
>>937929
Fatbikes are so expensive nowadays it mystifies me. So yes, it's probably worth it for now.
This probably belongs in bbg though.
>>937908
Dont matter man.
Learning about which 4chan board were archived was a mistery to me a few months ago too.
I assumed my stem was 26.0 but I think it's 25.4... Would a 26.0 bar be fucked?
>>937946
The bar would be okay, but you might damage the stem's clamp if you force in a bar that's too wide.
>>937946
While you probably could pry it open, the stem will stress and potentially crack, maybe causing catastrophic failure that will absolutely fuck your shit up. Terrible place to take a risk like that. If it was the other way around you could shim it with a beer can pretty safely. Lemond shimed some aerobars with a coke can for a TT in the giro one year.
>>937922
it went from relatively new to that in just 4 months of winter. I can't wash it because i dont have a garage and the outdoor hose is frozen. using buckets means cold hands. heck, i don't even bother changing a flat when im outside. touching metal rims when it's chilled to -20C means losing sensation in mere seconds. chain stays grimy until the hoses are warm enough to thaw
>>937834
It's a tange 1 frame that's top tier, they're awesome bikes. I think the 80s paintjobs are pretty badass too, more of a thuggish workhorse look than a sleek italian but that has its charm.
Shimano indexed DT shifting is excellent and pretty bombproof. I definately wouldn't look to modernise it/ upgrade it much. It doesn't really get much better. Learn to love riding the oldschool gear and get a second fully modern bike years down the line if you have money lying around.
The only upgrade i'd go for is a dual pivot front brake caliper. Of course change out the chain/ brake pads/ cassette/ freewheel if it needs it and regrease the bearings. Same goes for the BB, if it isn't smooth, try and repack it rather than replace if that's possible, it will be a quality item, plus that's cheaper.
I posted on the dead thread.
Hello,
I am newbie trying to get a bike for school. I am tire of taking the bus.
I am 6'2 and my budget is $200. What are the best bikes to get. I will be carry a backpack and a GYM bag. Also shouldn't the mods set up a sticky in this board.
My bike has a mount holes near the rear axle and another two further up.
I'm not sure if these would only be for mudguards or is there any reason I can't put a rack on my bike. It's aluminium frame road bike.
Found a pic. Not my bike but same frame. Same mount holes. Wonder if I can attach a rack to the mount hole that the mudguard is going in at the rear.
are there any perfomance and qualitydifference between headsets? on my cheap roadbike there is a generic FSA headset and i don't even fucking know what model, its just semi integrated. Anyway, i couldn't spot a difference when i used a roadbike with chris king headset, handling and perfomance just felt the same
>>937839
a chainring like that will give you shitty shifting performance and prematurely wear every chain you use on it.
>>937890
most shops have a big jar of bar plugs just sitting around, they'll give them out free.
>>938003
KING IS BLING
I
N
G
I
S
B
L
I
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G
>>937981
screencap'd.
I'll have to do all of these things someday in the future, my local mechanics are fucking useless.
Grazie
>>937834
As long as the Bike pleases you, why bother upgrading? Upgrades are only needed if the current components doesn't suit you
>>937995
Post in the BBG thread with your local craigslist and I'll run a search for you.
>>937999
Yeap, the two holes further up prove that the bike is designed with a rack in mind... Since its a road bike its unlikely it is reinforced for heavy touring loads (20kg+), If I were you I would only load it lightly.
>>938003
There's no difference when new. More expensive headsets supposedly have better bearings or cartridge designs that don't need overhauling as often, but I think that's bullshit. If you ride in wet conditions that put your headset bearings at greater risk for getting fucked, a front fender will help more than a blingy headset.
That said, the Cane Creek AngleSet is kinda neat because it allows you to change the effective head tube angle by a degree or so.
>>937940
Yeah, they come and go too much
>>937915
Bike Questions General - /bqg/
>General info
http://sheldonbrown.com/
>Mechanic guides
http://www.parktool.com/
https://www.youtube.com/user/parktoolcompany
https://www.youtube.com/rjthebikeguy
>Building a frame
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCqQaFLkweCgviyj_E0VEy9Q
If you want help to buy a bicycle go to the /bbg/ - Bike Buying General
Previous Thread: >>935120
How does catalog linking work?
>>937970
pour a bucket of hot water on it after every ride
>>937894
try removing them and giving them a light coating of soap to help with making them sit flush
>>937995
check the /bbg
How the fuck do I ensure proper chainline when converting an old 12 speed to a single speed? Ive replace the crank with a single and have no freakin clue where to start on the rear. My thoughts would be easiest to get a cog style rear wheel and run spacers with a single cog. Is this correcT? How about hub width and flip flop, vise single side thread.
>>938094
Don't touch the shifters. Now you have a single speed.
Is ebay, craiglist, etc. the only place to buy complete group/brake-sets that will fit in an old frame? I was looking to gift my poor bike integrated shifters and/or new teeth, but they're all expensive as balls (more than modern sets or a whole new steel bike).
>>938046
I really miss fun paintjobs on bikes. Now it's all black black black with white or neon fucking green or something.
>>938139
Spoken truly like somebody who has never ridden one.
Which one looks the best for a commuting spare saddle to you?
>>938033
Thanks m8
>>938303
Top
I'm not a fan of chunky saddles.
Bike shorts - how long do they last for you guys?
I got my first pair yesterday, didn't notice a tiny burr on one of the seat-fixing bolts and now they're ripped. Thankfully, the shop is replacing my shorts, and I guess I'll take a file to the bolt.
Are fatbikes any good for a 100km + trip? Suddenly all the fatbikes have gotten pretty cheap and I have been interedted in buying a bike for quite some time now.
>>938426
Not unless youll be riding through terrain. Rolling resistance is sky high. No point at all if there are roads.
>>938426
fatbikes are good for nothing. They will be gone in 2 years max.
>>938428
They're excellent on snow, mud and sand. Anything loose with a risk of sinking. Fun on hardpack. That said I agree and think 26+/27.5+ standards will largely replace them.
>>938426
They must be an ass to store. If you have a spot to keep it and have the money too, go ahead.
Any pedal+strap combos to recommend? My old set are nearly worn out.
Gloves : full finger vs fingerless?
>>938471
It's mostly preference.
If your hands will get real sweaty fingerless. Full finger for slight extra protection, I'll also mention that they avoid the awkward half finger tan line.
newbie questions here:
are chucks or sambas fine for platform pedal power transfer efficiency for the same reason they're generally efficient shoes for lifting?
if you were disinclined to spend hundreds of dollary-doos on cycling shoes are they going to be adequate?
>>938501
Nope, cycling shoes are different because their most important feature is having a stiff sole that isn't going to flex as you pedal (for efficiency, but also because pedaling hard with soft sole shoes that don't support your foot will quickly lead to foot pain). For casual riding the average walking shoe is fine (and in that case, the larger the pedal platform the better), but when you're looking to put as much force as possible into the cranks then you really do benefit from having a shoe with a stiff sole.
>>938377
I'll get at least 3 years, if not more out of a pair of shorts (I have multiple pairs I cycle through though), they last a very long time as long as you don't abuse them with machine washing/drying.
I've got a bike with a 31.8mm stem clamp, and I've got a 15-degree MTB bar on it. I'm thinking of switching to trekking bars, but most are 25.4mm.
Should I get a 31.8 for more or get a cheaper 25.4 and shim it?
I'm trying to get a less upright position and more hand positions.
>>938518
I'd go for the cheaper bar and a shim since the odds are pretty good you'll end up switching stems to match the new bar shape as well.
>>938523
Think I can get away with spacers or am I probably gonna need a new stem altogether?
>>938526
There are way too many factors involved - I'm certain you'll make some kind of change to your stem or its positioning, but I don't have any confidence in predicting exactly what will need to change without actually looking at your fit on the bike.
>>938516
>Nope
well then, i can get these shoes with a set of Shimano M520 pedals bundled for 180 dollary-doos from my LBS. bear in mind that i'm a novice mtber riding novice trails and commuting to work on the same bike on a trail with light pedestrian and zero automobile traffic.
worth or pass until i have more riding experience?
>>938533
Go for it: those pedals are great, and the price is okay since I assume the shoes account for most of that 180 price (everyone should buy at least their first pair of bike shoes from a brick and mortar shop, more expensive that way but then you're guaranteed to get shoes that fit properly).
>>938533
I hate my specialized shoes. They run very hot, almost no ventilation at all. My giro has lots of breathing holes and a ventilation window on the sole.
>>938537
>They run very hot, almost no ventilation at all.
i wear these 12-14 hours a day in a conference hotel kitchen, my friend. i'm quite used to it!
Anyone have any experience with a redline monocog?
>>938531
Alright, thanks man.
http://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_STOR20.cgi?Action=Details&ProdID=2961
150$ for a complete fat bike frame set it
>Once built the chain rubs the inside of the drive side dropout when on the smallest cog on a 8 speed cassette
whatcha think /n/ would you ride this as a SS?
>>938573
Hey /n/, as you can see, my chainring is badly worn.
It's a Shimano 105, 53 tooth chain ring from a bike I bought in 2007 with a 9 speed Shimano 105 drive train and a two-ring crankset.
Looking on Amazon, I see replacement chainrings that say "10 speed" and "type A", will one of these work as a replacement?
There's also one that says "Shimano 105 FC-5502 53t 9-speed B-Type Chainring", but there's no picture.
Wat do, /n/?
>>938580
A-type chainrings have ramps and pins placed to give ideal shifting with a 42t inner ring
B rings are for a 39 inner
'10-speed' etc. indicates the width of chain that the chainring is designed to work with, but it's less critical: you can generally run a chainring designed for +/- 1 'speed' from what your chain is designed for without ill effects.
>>938580
Jesus Christ, clean your shit, and just buy the Race Face chaining set for $18.
>>938587
You should not use first generation 10 speed chainrings if you can help it. They are narrowly spaced and touchy. Second generation spaced the chanrings out and used deeper ramped sections to bridge the extra width.
>>938580
Doesn't look particularly worn to me. The teeth are supposed to look like that. Put a new chain on, shift to the big ring and tug on the chain at '3 o'clock.' If you get a gap it's worn. Chainrings usualy lasts 4-6 cassettes or more if you dont use worn out chains.
>>938536
done did it. remembered to get appropriate tools to remove the platforms and install the new pedals, did a few practice step-ins and -outs like the shopbro showed me to get a feel for the coupling of the shoe and pedal and went a couple miles out to a marshy one-track with a steep uphill switchback at the end of the loop.
shit was still halfway flooded with 3-5" puddles and the switchback was far too steep and muddy for me to climb in my current level of conditioning but i got a good feel for the clipless stuff and didn't slam on my first ride, so that's nice. thanks for the encouragement, i'm really happy with my purchases.
>>938595
Those are worn
I bought a vintage bike off Craigslist, and the only thing I really have to replace is the hoods. They're sticky and torn to shit and are uncomfortable to ride on. Will any standard aero hood work or do I need something specific?
>>938604
Sadly, there's a different kind of hood for almost every kind of lever, and unless it's a Shimano lever (and sometimes even then) you'll probably have a hard time finding a replacement.
>>938607
Damn, I was afraid of that. I'll head to the shop tomorrow, maybe they can order some for me.
>>938598
>Those are worn
Yeah, they are.
The chain keeps skipping and falling off.
>>938587
>B rings are for a 39 inner
OK, that's what I've got, thanks.
>>938590
>just buy the Race Face chaining set for $18.
Thanks, I get both rings for cheap. Just ordered them.
>>938595
>The teeth are supposed to look like that.
>>938612
>The chain keeps skipping and falling off.
Worn chainrings cause chain suck with new chains. Front skipping is not a standard symptom. And definitely not chain drop.
I think the root cause is more likely the horrible condition your chain is in. Stiff links can cause chain slip and drops.
>>938614
>wat is shift ramp and teeth profile
![shimano+v.+sram[1].png](https://i.imgur.com/dyeI0X1.png "shimano+v.+sram[1].png")
>SRAM announces 12 speed group
>top end cassette is MSRP*
>USD: $420
>Euro: €458
ITS OVER SRAM IS FINISHED AND BANKRUPT
FRIENDS DONT LET FRIENDS BUY SRAM
SRAM BTFO
>>938622
> Front skipping is not a standard symptom. And definitely not chain drop.
Yes it is. Chain such is a symptom of shark toothing (hooking of teeth)
With advice this shitty, let me guess, you work at a bike shop.
>>938638
>implying it won't be Fred's grail
>>938641
>you work at a bike shop.
he,I work at a bike shop and I agree with you:(
you big bully!
>>938638
I seriously hate it when bike sites say XD driver is the future and shit, when it basically required red level hollow dome cassettes, that are even bigger and more expensive.
What is this silver piece of metal on the end of my fork?
>>938649
How is this hub locked?
Wasn't the cork supposed to be outside of the fork?
>>938649
Maybe some kind of lawyerlips predescessor?
Looks neat anyway
>>938656
Yep. See http://www.sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html#secondary
I got rekt
my derailleur is bent. as it is in picture, it's touching the spokes. How fucked am I? Is this repairable?
>>938704
Yes and Maybe. Part of the problem will be that the derailer hanger is bent, that can definitely be straightened. The second problem is that your derailer's cage is twisted, and that's trickier, fixing that will require grasping it in two places with big crescent wrenches and trying to bend it back into shape - this doesn't always work but it's worth a try before you buy a new derailer.
>>938704
Not to be the harbinger of bad news, but this happened to me once and the whole rear derailleur had to be replaced, including the derailleur hanger. The plates were bent, the 2 pivots where mangled and the upper limit screw got literally riveted into the derailleur. Not a pretty sight.
If only the plates holding the small cogs are bent, do as >>938707 said and try straightening them. If anything else is bent, just replace the thing.
Does anyone have a Pizza rack and like it?
>>938715
>pizza rack
I want to believe.
>>938655
>How is this hub locked?
Must be a skewer in there too, otherwise the fork ends could just flex apart and eject the hub.
I'm hoping it's just taken off to get a better pic.
>>938683
>Brilando's patent, however, expired in 2006!
Time to make money, guys!
Has anyone ever used these?
I feel like this might be an easier solution than to the dirt drop meme, but I've heard nothing about them.
>>938817
>>938817
>I feel like this might be an easier solution than to the dirt drop meme.
So you think by being even more of a meme you'll catch less shit? Yes it would be more simple to use those ends as you wouldn't have to switch out your cables and potentially shifters but at the same time its not really a viable alternative to drops by any means.
My bike has started displaying a strained rattling sound on the rear wheel when in the lower gears and pedaling hard. The spoke protector broke, I removed that and adjusted the chain guard. The noise is still there. What could it be?
>>938881
B-screw too far out or limiter too far in, or both.
>>938882
thanks. too tired to do this today. should have asked earlier but i'll give it a go tomorrow after work.
If the only part of your body getting sore after the 10-15 miles mark is the arms, is that because you stayed still for too long or is it an issue of needing pic related? Stem is already one of those facing upwards. Citybikefag btw.
Is someone able to identify this Fuji model and size ? I am trying to buy this for $100, but I want to know what model it is.
>>938939
Model, no. Size by eyeball about 56-58.
Isn't this the one anon flagged as stolen and why the hell would you want to support bike thiefs?
>>938906
Could be many other things too. Is the reach too long? is the handlebar too wide or not right curve (wrist angle not straight)? Is your saddle adjusted right front to back?
I used to think my handlebars were too low for comfort some years back. I thought I'd get a riser bar and it would fix things. (luckily I didn't) Last year I was riding the same bike with the stem flipped and slammed with no discomfort and now I'm on a roadbike with even lower bars and still no discomfort.
tl;dr: you shouldn't need to raise it if the fit is right
Are newer bikes really that much better than old bikes or am I doing it wrong?
I have an old street bike form the 1980's and I'm getting passed up effortlessly by people on super-skinny streamlined bikes. I'm watching their legs as they pedal, they aren't pedaling that much harder than I am, but I'm being left in the dust. They're going twice as fast as me.
In the front, I have the bike chain set on the middle sprocket and on the back I have it set on the smallest sprocket. I feel plenty of resistance while I'm pedaling. I'm fairly in shape, skinny guy able to long distance jog, so it isn't a matter of me being a fatso. I want to go faster.
>>938959
So wait, were you riding with the stem facing inwards? The saddle angle is leveled, the height is guesstimated with the sitting-on-saddle-with-tips-touching-the-floor. Handlebar is classically horizontal. The wrist angle is kinda like when you rest your hand on the mouse.
>>938983
There's a lot of shit that comes into play. Gearing, rider conditioning (you may be a long distance jogger, but that doesn't translate into being able to gofast on a bike), rolling resistance, geometry, fit, frame stiffness, etc.
But generally, yeah, a new road bike is going to be better than its 80s equivalent. Given the same rider, a 2016 CAAD12 105 is going to be a good deal faster than a 1986 Centurion Dave Scott Ironman Expert.
When it comes to MTB, the improvements are far bigger, because they don't have the UCI holding them back.
>>938983
There's too many factors in play to say much without more info: your fit on the bike, your strength (cycling and running are very different activities), your aerodynamic profile, and finally the bike itself - its quality, state of repair, tire choice, etc. - any of those things being sub-optimal can really increase the amount of resistance you feel when you ride.
>>938983
>>938991
What about the freewheel? How many speeds?
Seeing as you said "middle" I am assuming triple for the crankset, and no matter how big of a middle it is, it's not meant for speeding. Middle is for traffic commuting, the whole stop-and-go shit doesn't work well on the biggest cog.
>>938990
He said "twice", hyperbole aside either he's in denial about his shape or he's facing some race bike he's mistaking for whatever.
I ride a beater steel citybike I overhauled and fit back to front, replacing the triple with a 48-38-28 and slick 1.40 tires down from 1.95, and despite the cheap shit I ride you'd have to average over 31 mph to go double my speed, as 16ish is a no-brainer. The only limit I have is the top speed, I am positive you could give this thing to the best racer on earth and he wouldn't be able to push this setup above 19mph, because it's still a crappy heavy steel 6 speed 14-28.
>>938454
Bumping, still looking for some pedals.
>>938707
>fixing that will require grasping it in two places with big crescent wrenches and trying to bend it back into shape - this doesn't always work but it's worth a try before you buy a new derailer.
I have an old 105 RD whose plate I bent. I disassembled it and beat it out flat with a hammer from the back side. put it back together and it shifted like it never happened.
I thought I was fucked but it was totally cool. pretty sure getting the spring back in and tensioned was a pain, tho.
>>938983
what you wrote indicates that you don't fully understand gearing. I'd say that's your chief cu;prit
>>939016
MKS Sylvan, 'road' version if you're going to ride with a toe cage + strap, 'touring' version if you're going to ride with strap only.
>>939040
>get the road version
>posts the tour version
Should I really be worried about pant legs getting caught in a fixed gear chain?
>>939058
Yes.
>>939058
Almost all my sweatpants have at least a rip from getting caught in my chainring. On the flipside, my jeans are spotless, probably because I like a skinny-ish fit,
>>939058
I noticed my pants never get caught when my chain is on the outer ring but ripped all my jeans when the outer chainring is exposed. So no, I wouldn't worry about it.
Hello guys,
Do you have any preferred/recommended paint brands, I want to paint my bike in black.
I just got the front fork on my bike replaced with a new one by a local bike shop and I have discovered that my old fork still has this in the steer tube. What is it? Should it be in my new fork?
>>939132
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_st-z.html#starnut
Worry not, all should be fine.
>>939133
Cool, thanks
>>939132
They cost less than $1, and come with new headsets. Removing them is often a destructive process.
I wish to cc tour with my carbon and frame/seat packs. It has di2 and hydraulic discs. How stupid of an idea is this?
>>939151
For a shorter tour in a first world country, why the hell not? Charges last for ages. If shit breaks outside of cities, it might take a while to get parts ordered, but that's often the case anyway and shit doesn't really break of its own accord anyway.
You wouldn't want to load a carbon road bike that much, but if you're not carrying cooking or camping gear that shouldn't be too hard. A bikepacking-esque setup with a large seatbag, frame bag and handlebar roll should suit you well.
I see 2 problems- 1, the gearing won't really be low enough, not so bad if you're a strong rider and try for an ultralight ethos.
2- You're going to stick out as a rich cunt, so other travelers will be wary of you, you won't invoke the hospitality which is a big charming part of travelling and you'll be a big target for theft.
Pic is Durianriders touring setup
where can i get replacement hoods for Dura Ace 7400 brifters? or what's available these days that would fit because i'm not paying $60 for 2 pieces of rubber from ebay
>>939040
Can confirm these are quality pedals for the price, especially the touring version.
can I run a 135mm mtb hub in a alu road bike ?
>>939267
I wouldn't risk it
>>939058
i always wound the excess fabric around my lower leg and pulled my sock tight up over it to prevent the loose fabric from catching.
>>939046
>not reading the second half of his sentence
have anyone hear of this brand Aleoca? how is it's quality?
>>939267
Nope, aluminum cannot be coldset
has anybody ever used a a2z disc conversion on a road bike ?
Question for the couple of moustache bar users floating around: How the fuck do you set these things up?
It feels really counter intuitive coming from drops, I've read a few times that the tips of the hoods should be ~12cm apart which seems ridiculously far in on the bar to me.
>>939615
Tip of lever should be just in line with the outer end of the bar.
park tool asc or copper anti-seize on spoke threads.
yes or no?
Do spokes need a locking compound?
Will the spoke tension decrease due to vibrations when using anti seize compound?
>>939619
That's how you set up drops yes, that's what I tried initially. But clearly that's not in agreement with 12cm hood to hood.
>>939621
Absolutely not copper. Galvanic corrosion. Any type of grease will do. I use hub ballbearing grease. White, stringy stuff. Probably lithium grease.
>>939621
Threadlocker
>>939629
I mean it seems wrong to me as well but that's literally what Bridgestone recommended...
>>939627
>making wheel truing harder than it already is
shigity-diggity-doo. I hope for your sake this is a troll.
>>939634
I mean.. it's just a recommendation so tailor it to fit your needs.
Looking at this page:
http://web.stanford.edu/~dru/moustache.html
> I currently have them set up a bit further than 13cm apart and quite a bit lower than horizontal, and this works great for me.
Just try different setups until it feels right.
Found this thing in our bike shed, would it be worth it to build it up from the frame?
I'm a total noob to bike assembly so I dont really have any idea what I would need and how much it would cost. Help me out here.
>>939761
it would cost about the same as a brand new bike, but more hassle because of specific parts you will need for that era.. think of it like building an antique muscle car
>>939761
I'm thinking not given the condition, what's missing, and the quality of some of the bits still there - if it was a high end frame out of decent tubing maybe but i doubt that.
those brake calipers are nice from a nerd standpoint though - altenbergers i think, a very early sidepull.
You're in the UK I'm guessing ? buy an old 70's Dawes galaxy or something for cheap, make sure it's all there and rust free, then re-build that - you'll end up with a much better bike for way less cash.
Using WD-40 on a chain is fine
Is there a way to separate and remove the individual sprockets from a freewheel like pic related?
>>939761
Rear wheel, tires, tubes, rear mech, front mech, handlebars, bar tape, brake levers, brakepads, cableset.
'Round where I live, I could get all the parts needed to rebuild that bike at my local co-op for around USD120. Laborwise it would probably take two days, three hours per day to install all of those parts.
So $120 plus six hours of your time(however much that's worth to you.) Could probably get a better quality bike in better condition for less money on craigslist.
Final note, that's a one piece crankset. It's going to be a bitch and a half to find new chainrings for that sucker.
So I measured my chain, 8 links : 8" and 2/8" or something like that. Drivetrain feels smooth af though. Casette looks alright but from what i've heard i probably need to change both chain and casette now :/
How often do I need to change chain in general? I commute and run perhaps 5k km per year.
>>939990
Yes, the top sprocket threads onto the freewheel and locks the others in place. To remove it you need a chainwhip plus something to hold the rest of the freewheel steady (freewheel vice, 2nd chainwhip, bolt the freewheel to a piece of wood, etc.)
>>940052
Read this (chain wear measurement is covered almost all the way at the end):
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html
I'm wondering whether to keep my chain lock or switch to u-lock.
Which board would know how large bolt cutters need to be to cut 7mm steel chain in a short time? i know thieves can cut cable locks with pocket-size handtools
how vulnerable are chain locks? I'm not talking about leaving the bike overnight outside with them. I mean, in broad daylight, in front of public buildings, will a 7mm steel chain, inside .. some kind of thick fabric thing.. be enough in normal circumstances? they gotta tear the fabric with something first...
Doesn't it happen to people with u-lock that they cant lock their bike at a certain location?
>>940065
The strength of lock you need really depends where you lock up. In my city there are neighborhoods (with almost no pedestrian traffic) where a simple cable lock is plenty, and even unlocked bikes will be left alone, in others, if you don't have a U-lock + cable then you'll get the bike, or at least a wheel, stolen if it sits for five minutes.
That said, for most theft prevention it's not the kind of lock so much as how the bike is locked: a tight-fitting U-lock plus cable through the wheels will discourage casual thieves. Dedicated thieves who come with proper tools don't care what kind of lock you have, they'll cut/grind through it regardless.
Do any of you carry first aid type materials when you're out on a long ride?
>>940115
For a long mountain bike ride yes. Otherwise nope.
>>940115
No. Anything lifesaving in those kits (tourniquets, pressure bandages) can be easily improvised with a piece of clothing. Do carry a phone though.
still gotta give it a clean. any tips on that? options are pressure washer, steam cleaner or just regular hose and elbow grease.
>>938882
nailed it. thanks again. since watching this video my gears are more responsive than ever. possible that the previous owner/manufacturer didn't even configure it right. 30 minutes watching a youtube video over and over again and it rides like a dream.
>>940141
Definitely not pressure, steam would do squat, regular hose works perfectly well. Just be sure to wash any grit of before you start wiping, sponging or brushing if you care about scratches.
>nailed it.
Glad to be of help.
Any minimalist half finger gloves to recommend?
Something like giro ltz gloves
are there any good guides on how to ride on the roads safely and effectively? American here.
Also, how do I change traffic lights? I tried putting a strong magnet on my bike but it did nothing, possibly because the bike is non-magnetic.
>>940142
> do squat
so it would work? sorry if i come off as pedantic but i've only ever heard this used in the phrasing
> wouldn't do squat
as in. wouldn't work out.
>>940165
>so it would work?
Autocorrect. It sacks.
Somehow after a year of usage the back wheels on my bikes disintegrate, and it has happened again.
There are a lot of bike shops in this town, but just to avoid unnecessary trips:
What measurements do they need?
I know it's a 28" wheel, there are 7 gears on it, no quick release or anything fancy. I can change most stuff myself, but I don't have the tools for changing the cogset (would probably need a new one anyways).
>>940184
There are no measurements in surrealism
>>940203
good one m8
anways, found some websites with info on what kind of measurements I need
>>940184
>Somehow after a year of usage the back wheels on my bikes disintegrate, and it has happened again.
>back wheels
you have more than one wheel on the rear of your bike?
>disintegrate
the tire? or the wheel?
your pic shows bent rims, not "disintegration"
you aren't making this easy on us with your poorly-worded post.
>but just to avoid unnecessary trips:
>What measurements do they need?
just take (what's left of) your old wheel in to show them. they're just going to ask you for it, anyhow.
>>940227
>you have more than one wheel on the rear of your bike?
No, but it happened multiple times, on different bikes
The [metal] wheel/rim starts to deform at some point, then spokes will eventually break, wheel wobbles... you know. I weigh about 110kg, I don't ride on and off sidewalks constantly, but I'm not riding super cautious either.
Sorry about the ambiguous language, I'm not a native English speaker. I will just take the wheel to some bike shop.
>>940231
It's probably too late now. Get a pair of 32 spoke hand built wheels by a good builder. Get them retensioned after a month or so whe the nipples are permanently seated. They'll stay true forever.
>>940231
if you really have a 28" wheel, I think the only market that still uses them is the Chinese Flying Pigeon? It seems likely that those wheels (or any machine-built spoked wheel, but I'd particularly distrust a cheap-ass FP wheel) are only tensioned to the minimum to be true (straight) to get them sold. once they're ridden under load, the uneven tension worsens, gradually pulling the whole system out of place until eventual failure. even under rough-ish riding, your weight ought to be fine on a well-built wheel.
It sounds like this is the problem to me. If I'm right, really all you have to do is get a replacement wheel but before you install it, get a mechanic that can competently true wheels to get it tensioned properly before you ride it.
sort of the same thing as >>940233
is saying, but my way you _should_ be able to use a stock wheel, which is cheaper than a custom build
What's wrong with my dick brakes?
Whenever I shoot a rock from my tires, it makes a "ching" sound. If I hit a bump, it makes the same sound and then it goes "ching ching ching" every revolution. I have to squeeze the brakes slightly and it goes silent, as it should. Do I just need to back off on the pads?
hey family, I'm looking to buy a bike for about $200, but I could go to 300 if it's a solid piece
I've never really ridden a bike for transportation before so I really have no clue what I'm looking for
can anyone give me a hand with this?
this bike seems decent for what I need (~5 miles daily) and it's reasonably cheap
6'2 200 lbs
>>940251
Possibly, and/or true your discs. Check centering.
>>940251
Have you checked that the rotors bolts are secure?
How close are the pads to the rotors?
Are the rotors true?
>>940248
>if you really have a 28" wheel, I think the only market that still uses them is the Chinese Flying Pigeon?
What do you mean? As in pre-assembled? 28" bikes are all over the place here in Germany. Found some 28" rims that seem to be sturdier from Googling around and reading forums, don't even cost that much more than the cheaper ones.
>>940292
28", aka 700c, 29" or 622mm is by far the most common wheel size.
The rims are close to irrelevant. A rim of sufficient quality costs pocket shrapnel. What matters is how well built the wheel is, how evenly tensioned it is, how well stress-relieved it is, how well seated the nipples are and how well supported the spoke elbows are.
All this is stuff that machines have a terrible problem with. That's why Clydes like you and me need handbuilt, proper wheels.
Mid range Shimano hub, double butted spokes and a sturdy, eyeletted rim shouldn't cost you much more than €100 to have built, but will be well worth it. Treat it as an investment.
>>940282
check catalog for /bbg/
our bike buy general
post height, inseam if known, and local craigslist. no good, new bikes are in your budget.
>w-what about my pic related?
that bike is tinfoil and duct-tape with a shiny coat of paint.
luckily, there are plenty of awesome used bikes in your budget.
>>940295
Alright man, thanks
>>940292
Rose will sort you out, lieber krautfag. Like I said, ride for a month, let someone competent tune them up, live happily ever after.
https://www.rosebikes.de/artikel/atb-hinterrad-28700-c-mavic-a-319shimano-deore-lx670/aid:716404
>>940303
True it. The *cling*cling*cling* is the bulge contacting the pads. You could increase the clearence if the discs are mechanical, but that will mean a brake that engages later in the stroke and you risk bottoming out against the bar or your fingers.
The disc should be true to within tenths of a mllimetre.
Coop guy is correct in that there's no actual danger in the rotors being slightly out of true, but the price is the risk of noise.
>>940304
Aight. Thanks bud
>>938817
I bought some of these. Really regret it. They don't work like drop bars at all and look like shit too.
>>937760
Can I clean my chain with washing up liquid and then rinse with water? or do I have to buy 'specialized citrus(TM) de-greaser'?
Also, whats the best way to keep oil and lubricants off disc brakes during cleaning? Is it fine to regularly use degreaser on the the discs and then wash off with water and dry?
>>940448
Don't use degreaser or anything else on the discs. Never try to routinely clean them. If you get oily stuff on them, use disc brake cleaner and/or heat.
>Also, whats the best way to keep oil and lubricants off disc brakes during cleaning?
Hose the bike down with as low pressure as possible. Never spray at an angle where dirt and grime might splash on the discs.
>Can I clean my chain with washing up liquid and then rinse with water?
Wouldn't recommend it. You'll never get all of the washup out again as it bonds to the oil residue, and you'll never get all of that off with just washup.
You can use any volatile petrolium product instead of a specialised degreaser. Pour it in a jar, add chain, shake vigorously. Make sure it all evaporates before you oil.
If you use a degreaser, make sure you rinsed all of it out of the chain before you oil. I rinse best I can, and then boil the last bit out.
>>940455
thanks, that helps a lot. I have a chain with the pin in it, i don't think I can completely take the chain out to clean it.
unless it's safe to push the assembly pin out and then reinsert it again??
>>940460
>unless it's safe to push the assembly pin out and then reinsert it again??
No, but you usualy get two or three pins with a chain, and a quicklink is 4€ and can be carried over to the next chain.
>>940461
Now I see why they are so popular. So if I get a quicklink, do I use the chain tool to pop one of the old links out, and connect the chain with a Quick Link? Or do I have to remove the one that has the inserted and snapped pin?
DRY L00B RECCOMENDATION PLEASE THANX
>>940479
>do I use the chain tool to pop one of the old links out, and connect the chain with a Quick Link?
Yes.
>>940482
Paraffin wax hot bath. Bonus points for graphite or PTFE powder doping.
>>940482
Squirt wax lube. Quiet and you only degrease chain once, it's sparkling clean always. My chain lasted for 5000km.
How do you adjust your bottom bracket? I was told by a veteran vendor "just tighten the left cone as hard as you can, lock the ring, then work on the right cone to get the axle moving just right without wobbling". Is that bullshit?
>>940548
On anything worth mending made in the last four decades, yes. Bottom brackets are nowadays sealed units and there is nothing you can adjust yourself. If there's play in the bearing you toss it and put a new one in.
>>940552
This kinda thing. I have the weird feeling it should be tight shut 3, adjust 1 and then lock, but I am not really sure.
>>940554
Ouch, french bottom bracket gang. You have my sympathies. If it wasn't I'd say get a cartridge BB.
This: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbadj.html
You always adjust the lockring side, with the lockring somewhat tightened. Like a cup and cone hub.
>>940554
>12 in one cup
>10 in the other
my keks
That's also completely wrong. 3 is the fixed cup, 1 is the adjustable cup, 2 is the lockring when you get it adjusted.
>>940554
The top right race is non-adjustable. You don't even have to touch this, it just goes in and stays there. The other race (1Tight) is the one you want to adjust. You might as well take it all the way out, and re-grease it while you're in there.
But basically, yeah. Take 1Tight and tighten it up until there's no up-down-side-side play in the spindle, and you should be pretty good from there.
>>940556
So yeah, ultimately it's open, check grease etc, then tighten fixed cup as hard as you can, then screw adjustable cup in until wobble goes away, and only then lock the ring, right? What is more recommendable to no play, harder to spin or a bit wobble? I am inclined to say the former.
>>940557
Ok, my huge mistake was assuming it was a two-sides adjustment, I missed the "FIXED" thing. No wonder it kept giving up as soon as I started pushing harder.
>>940560
firm to spin, no wobble. you don't want it to be super-hard, but def. no wobble is what you want.
What is the model of frame, btw, as long as it's not old british or a french bike, you should be able to jus throw a cartridge bb in there and never touch it again.
Can anyone recommend a good bike mirror?
>>940626
I run one of these sprintech mirrors. It does the job and hasn't had any issues so I guess it's ok.
There's a piece of shit Trek 820 with a crappy cable lock near my GF's place. I know it hasn't been used in forever, cobwebs, brakes popped off, tires etc. How much of a nigger would I be for stealing it and using it for parts and a commuter frame?
>>940648
If it's borderline deserted just take it and pretend it's usucapion. If you can make good use of it there's no reason not to.
>>939160
http://velonews.competitor.com/2014/12/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/tech-faq-mixing-shimano-road-mtb-derailleurs_356751
Apparently you can't use the road Di2 FD with any XTR parts but other combinations work.
>>940648
It's not yours. Period. Supernigger.
>>940648
I just sold my trek 820 not too long ago. That makes me sad...
I bought a Miyata 618GT for 80$ and I'm looking to upgrade it with up to 300$.
How much of a terrible idea is this?
>>940702
Great touring frame. What are you going to upgrade it with?
>>940706
Is it a sin not use it as a touring bike? I'm looking for new wheels, maybe convert it to a 14-speed so new derailleurs and perhaps chain, new brakes (calipers), new levers. I replaced the end bars indexed shifters with friction ones (don't kill me). In the future, I'll get indexed downtube shifters.
>>940702
Does it fit you? Do you like it, for the inexplicable but all important reasons that make us like stuff? Not a bad idea at all, if you like it, it's a nice bike.
Lets see some pics? What do you want to use it for?
>>940707
Wheels are consumable items and if you're not setting out on a long tour wait until a pothole or a crash consumes your current wheels. Upgrading for the sake of it is kind of silly, get the use out of what you have and then move on.
>>940708
I intend to use it as an everyday bike to commute in the city and for longer rides when I go through different type of terrains. It does fit me well I think. It's a 54cm frame I believe; it's right in my height bracket. I do like it, it rides smoothly and not awkwardly at all (as opposed to other older bike I tried).
I'll post pics tomorrow if the thread is still alive.
>>940709
This is what I did last summer and it went fine. However, I always wanted black wheels/rims and now that I have a job, I don't plan on holding back. If anything, I'll keep my current wheels as spare.
>>940709
>Wheels are consumable items
Topkek
Good one lad
>>940848
so are frames #carbon4lyfe
>>940848
Wheels have a much, much longer service life than most 'consumables', but unlike stems and seatposts, if you own a bike long enough you'll end up having to replace them:
1. Wheels can only be trued so many times before a rim is bent beyond tolerances for achieving even spoke tension.
2. Rim brake wheels need to be relaced with new rims after 30-50,000 miles of use as the brake track wears out.
3. As new designs come and go on the market, non-standard spoke/bearing/cone designs may make wheel repair more expensive than replacement, practically limiting a wheel's service life.
4. Wheels are prone to suffering damage that can destroy the wheel, but not harm the rest of the bike.
Help! I recently got a 2nd hand folding bike. Its a Doppelganger 202 Blackmax. The thing is I cant go uphill on this. The problem isnt my stamina or strength (Im fairly fit), but the chains are acting weird. They make this "tshuk, tshuk" sound when I pedal and the pedaling isnt smooth so I was forced to get off the bike and just walk the hill. When I got to my destination, the chains arent in their right position so I had to put them in. This happens a lot. What do? Is it still salvageable?
The thing looks like this. Its been 13 years since Ive biked. I know nothing.
Should I buy a pair of bar ends ?What are your guys's thoughts ?I want to experiment a little since I am getting into cycling again.(I have a mountain bike)
This is long cage, right?
>>940962
type "rear derailleur adjust" into youtube searchbar
What is the correct way to clean rim brake surface?
test
>>937839
tset
>>941008 #
test
>>940992
Nah, bar ends have gone out of fashion for a reason.
>>941001
Yes
>>941004
Step one: scour buildup off the rim with a rag or a scrubbing pad or sponge. If you spray some kind of liquid on the rim first that can speed up the process (water, soap, brake cleaner, bike wash, etc.) considerably.
Step two: if you used some kind of liquid on the rim to make cleanup faster, you'll need to make sure that's cleaned off (otherwise the brakes will squeal and not work as well) - a clean rag plus some alcohol sprayed on the rim (evaporates quickly) is ideal.
>>941017
>Nah, bar ends have gone out of fashion for a reason.
Why would that be ? I get if you are driving off-road but wouldnt they be more beneficial if I drove on the road ?
>>941029
They're really only useful for endurance riding, where varied hand positions are CRUCIAL to ride comfort.
Otherwise they're just dead weight on your bike that you actually have to pay for. I personally think they look kinda cool, but they're vestigial for most riders.
>>941033
Oh yeah,I get what you mean.But what about sprinting ?I also like the neutral position when I do stuff (hammer curls,neutral grip pullups).
I still think of buing a pair since they are like,12 bucks.
>>941034
12 bucks is nothing, just buy them if you feel like it.
If someone gives you shit, just lie and tell them that you went on a 600 mile tour on it last year, they'll shut up about it.
What kind of steam is that?
>>941060
meant to write stem
>>941060
Look Ergostem
>>941069
Thanks. It looks like a great idea and stupid one at the same time.
>>941060
Can someone explain Sannino frames to me?
They don't seem to have any kind pattern. Did the old man just made frames the way he deemed fit based on his knowledge?
>>941079
It's simply the nature of custom/specialist builders to want, and be requested to, build frames that defy convention.
>>941086
>i want a bicycle with good components but designed, with endless possibilities, to break and hurt me, while riding and when it breaks
Hey /n/iggers....
So I've got a saddle (Bontrager) that still looks good, and everything.
The padding is still squeezable, nothing's torn or missing.
But lately by butt gets sore on long rides (6+ hours).
Thoughts?
