[Boards: 3 / a / aco / adv / an / asp / b / biz / c / cgl / ck / cm / co / d / diy / e / fa / fit / g / gd / gif / h / hc / his / hm / hr / i / ic / int / jp / k / lgbt / lit / m / mlp / mu / n / news / o / out / p / po / pol / qa / r / r9k / s / s4s / sci / soc / sp / t / tg / toy / trash / trv / tv / u / v / vg / vp / vr / w / wg / wsg / wsr / x / y ] [Home]
4chanarchives logo
/QTDDTOT/ - Quentin Tries Dieting Despite The Outrageous Tacos
Images are sometimes not shown due to bandwidth/network limitations. Refreshing the page usually helps.

You are currently reading a thread in /diy/ - Do It yourself

Thread replies: 255
Thread images: 82
File: 20160122_205905.jpg (968 KB, 1224x1632) Image search: [Google]
20160122_205905.jpg
968 KB, 1224x1632
Old one is sliding to oblivion, time for a /QTDDTOT/ reroll.

I have just pulled the voice board out of an old Yamaha organ, it delivers A - G through various outputs simultaneously, I want to throw some frequency dividers at it, tack some time based effects on it and turn it into a drone box, but I am confused about the power. I have never seen labeling like this before. Pic related shows its inputs. They are labelled V and -12. The -12 pads goes to the negative side of the electrocap, assumedly serving as a decoupler. I can connect any old 12V supply to this, as long as I connect the negative side to -12, and the positive side to V, correct?
>>
>>934023
Have you searched for schematics of the thing? Positive ground electronics was a thing in the PNP transistor era in some cases.
>>
File: steckerleiste.jpg (18 KB, 500x500) Image search: [Google]
steckerleiste.jpg
18 KB, 500x500
I have a power strip with a switch similar to pic.
Recently it started having issues where the light in the switch would start flickering and correspondignly the plugged in appliances were only sporadically receiving electricity. This occurs both with and without appliances plugged in.
What could be the cause of this? Unfortunately I’m missing the right screw driver for safety screws so opening it up is not an option. I’m mainly asking out of curiosity since I don’t intend to fuck around with electricity, but I can’t figure out what might be the cause of such a seemingly simple mechanism (a mechanical switch to close a curcuit) to malfunction like this.
>>
>>934542

neon bulbs will do start flickering after a few years; just ignore it. the loads are almost certainly not ''sporadically receiving electricity''; there's a 99% chance that's just your imagination.
>>
File: Zowie.jpg (105 KB, 685x624) Image search: [Google]
Zowie.jpg
105 KB, 685x624
i'm going to buy a Zowie EC2 as a new mouse, but the LED color in the mousewheel is directly connected to the DPI you want :
Red: 400DPI, Pink: 800DPI, Blue: 1600DPI & Green: 3200DPI

thing is, i don't want the LED changing color with the DPI because i change it a lot and i don't want some shit colors on my mouse.

pic related, how would i go about choosing a single color and disabling the color changing ability ? do i just need to add a switch on the middle wire, so that when i change DPI but the switch is off, the LED doesn't change color ?

if so , what kind of switch should i use ?

never soldered before, but i have some knowledge about electronics, is there any soldering tools i should get for this, or will a regular soldering iron do the job ?
>>
>>934575

3 pins suggests you have 2 positives and a common ground. the two positives are probably red and blue. the ground is probably the center pin. but this is all speculation, it could be literally anything. you'd need to take voltage readings and look at the colors to say for sure.

the proper way to do this is, keep the common ground connected, and cut off the two color inputs. bring a 390-ohm resistor from the +5V and connect it to one of the color inputs so the thing is always red or always blue.

however a solderess virgin is likely to screw that up, and destroy the mouse, so a better plan is to determine what the color inputs are by measuring voltages, and cut off the pin that produces the unwanted color. that way you'd get, say, blue and dim blue.

wiring a switch into a mouse is not advised for aesthetic reasons.
>>
>>934583
by switch i meant some kind of screw switch , kept inside the mouse and taped to the PCB or something.

that might be stupid, but i have no idea how LED works so i'm a bit surprised there's only 2 wire and a ground instead of 3 (for Red , green and blue) since the LED can turn every 3 basic color.

let's say i find the color i want, couldn't i just wire the inputs needed to produce the color i want to the orange 5v usb cable ?

the plan was to make the LED bright orange, but since it's not in the listed color i wanted blue. however , since you can get all three colors with only 2 cable, couldn't i get every color i want ?
>>
>>934588

you can get more than 2 colors from a 2-color LED by doing 2 things, (1) by having both colors on, they mix to get a third color, red+blue=purple, and (2) by using PWM on one or both colors, you get intermediate colors by mixing, lets say 75% blue and 33% red.

it's also possible to include more than 2 colors using 3 wires by having lamps that are wired backwards, so you reverse the polarity to turn those on.

again, this is all speculation until measurements are made, or a part number can be identified. or the part could be pulled out of the mouse and wired in various combinations to a 9V battery with 2x 1K resistors to limit current.
>>
>>934595
you know , i just realised. wouldn't it be easier to just cut the LED off and just buy an orange LED , and wire it so that it's always on ?
>>
my toaster broke, the spring mechanism. but to open the whole thing, I have to remove the triangular (!) screws at the bottom...they didnt even have the right screwdriver at the store...and told me it is a safety precaution...
but just how can I open it then without breaking it??
>>
File: t20bw[1].jpg (54 KB, 600x490) Image search: [Google]
t20bw[1].jpg
54 KB, 600x490
>>935078
Its a plastic piece of shit. Probably cost $10 new. If so, you paid exactly $9.50 more than it was worth... cause the packaging it came in was probably worth about 50 cents.

Get an old Sunbeam radiant control toaster. I bought mine for $3 at a garage sale.

http://www.automaticbeyondbelief.org/

Or you can spend about the same amount of money with shipping on a special screwdriver off the internet. Since your image is a fucking postage stamp I can't tell what kind of screws are used in it but I'm guessing a triangle drive and not a tri-wing or something like that. They are on Amazon.
>>
>>935084
thank you, yes it is a piece of crap.
but I'm in Germany, not US, your suggestion is not available here so easily...do you know one that is available here?
>>
>>935086
kommt auf dein budget draufann. schon auf amazon was geschaut? die Dreieckschrauben sind auch keine Sicherheitsangelegnheit. Die Firma will einfach das du ihn wegwirfst und nen neuen kaufst ^^
>>
>>934542
if its as you say its more like the cord is broken or something

>>934023
what is going on on the right? red from -12 is connected to what?
>>
>>935091
ok so siehts aus...ich klick mich mal durch bestenlisten, danke
>>
>>935078
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Pcs-1-4-Hex-Shank-3mm-Tip-Magnetic-Triangle-ScreW6river-Bits-W6-/181784283300
>>
>>935130
hab nen 25€ Toaster von Amazon. der hält bis jetzt 5 oder 6 Jahre. Ich mein es isn Toaster da kann sowieso ned viel kaputt werdn haha
>>
>>935084
>Sunbeam toastermatic

GOAT toaster.
>>
I'm after a pc program that I can enter in the dimensions of parts for something I want to build but also allows me to scale up/down one specific part which in turn scales down all the rest of the parts too.

Hope that makes sense. I don't word very gud.
>>
>>935538
Cad programs will let you do that wont they?
>>
How do you store your NaOh and FeCl3 solutions or similar for etching pcbs?
I am always too afraid to actually start etching because i don't know what is considered safe as a container for them.
Also, it is allowed in my country to pour NaOh down the drain if the solution has a very small percentage of the alkali, would this be a bad idea anyways?
>>
>>935598
I've kept ferrichloride in an ordinary soda bottle for years. It gets ugly (rusty) after a while, but it doesn't seem to weaken mechanically.
I don't store sodium hydroxide as solution. I just mix a small batch before use and pour it down the drain with lots of water afterwards. It's the same stuff as normal drain opener, except that around 10 times weaker. Sodium hydroxide pellets are in a polyethene jar.

It might be worth mentioning that I etch PCBs only rarely.
>>
>>935604
Alright thank you, i would only etch rarely aswell. With what ratio do you approximately mix sodium hydroxide with water?
>>
>>935605
1% is the nominal strength, but I don't really bother weighting it.
I do it that way for convenience's sake, but there's no particular reason why you should copy my way - unless it happens to be convenient for you as well. Polyethene and glass bottles should be fine with dilute NaOH. Probably soda bottles (PET) as well.
>>
File: 71KpIE0Xm2L._SL1500_.jpg (67 KB, 1500x1500) Image search: [Google]
71KpIE0Xm2L._SL1500_.jpg
67 KB, 1500x1500
I have a DL380 G5, and I need to put a gpu in it. It doesn't have any aux power connectors, so I'm currently limited to putting in a gpu without any extra power connectors, or nigger rigging another psu on the outside.
What I think would be a more elegant solution is getting one of pic related and taking power from the drive bays, since I'm not using all 8 of them. I'm not sure how much power I can take from SATA connectors, but since it's designed to run 2.5" 15K drives 24/7, I'm sure it would be robust enough to handle running a gpu
>>
>>935677
I could also take power from the main connector
the drive cage has a power connector, pic related
how would I go about finding what pins are what? I've got a multimeter but I don't really know how to use it
>>
File: 0125160414.jpg (1 MB, 3000x1688) Image search: [Google]
0125160414.jpg
1 MB, 3000x1688
>>935679
forgot pic
>>
File: 3469308200_1313874731[1].jpg (121 KB, 1024x768) Image search: [Google]
3469308200_1313874731[1].jpg
121 KB, 1024x768
>>935677
The PSU is pretty-obviously a single-rail.

This means that you can draw from any 12v source, provided the wiring can handle the current.

SATA connectors are rated to 1.5A per pin*, and three of the pins are 12V**, so a single drive connectore is rated to 1.5*3*12 = 54w.

PCIe power connectors require 75w (six-pin, two-conductor) or 150w (eight-pin, three-conductor)***.

This means a two SATA-power to PCIe/6 adaptor can draw 75% of the power the drive connector is rated for, and a three SATA-power to PCIe/8 adaptor can draw 92% of the power the drive connector is rated for.

I don't know if the backplane can actually provide a constant 4.5A to every sata power port; that's just what the SATA connector itself can do.

Obviously, the card won't draw power it doesn't need, so your actual calculation is (<card power> - 75w (from PCIe slot) )/number of wires.

Presumably you're not planning on putting a GTX Titan in it, but if you did, it would need to be connected to seven bays to run the wiring within spec.

* http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0675820000_CRIMP_HOUSINGS.xml&channel=Products&Lang=en-US
** https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serial_ATA#Power_connectors
*** https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PCI_Express#Power
>>
>>935695
>>935681
>>935679

These molex connectors are rated to 11A per pin, and apparently this motherboard provides two 12v pins**, so you're looking at being able to draw ~250w total from that connector.


* http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0455580003_PCB_HEADERS.xml
** http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showpost.php?s=11f7208e1256c855a66da15d2655d870&p=13292705&postcount=10
>>
>>935677
If your going to nigger rig it then take the extra power from an unused set of wires as this will reduce the current burden and possible overheating of wires.
>>
>>935702
Read the thread, please.

It's a 2U server, and its PSUs (there can be two of them) have no wires whatsoever.
>>
File: 68635027_L.jpg (19 KB, 660x660) Image search: [Google]
68635027_L.jpg
19 KB, 660x660
So I have one of these cheap ass bookshelf styles for my room since I am a broke ass college student. It was held together with adhesive and pegs. I lost the pegs, and thought I rigged it to be sturdy.

I was wrong.

So I figured I could rebuild it and fortify it up a lot better. I was thinking of nails, but I can't secure the middle shelf with nails.

Suggestions, /diy/? I was thinking a strong adhesive might do the trick, but I'm not sure what to look into.
>>
File: 20160125_150442.jpg (95 KB, 2152x1710) Image search: [Google]
20160125_150442.jpg
95 KB, 2152x1710
check hardware store for something like this, except they make ones that will work for your project, I'll post a picture in a moment showing how they would work...
>>
File: 1453747228091.jpg (33 KB, 660x660) Image search: [Google]
1453747228091.jpg
33 KB, 660x660
>>935877
i hope my picture here shows what I'm talking about. they fold towards each other to fit in a corner rather than the picture above that I posted. Same material, just different angles for different jobs. Expect to pay $2-3 bucks for a pack which will likely have either 2 or 4 brackets depending on the size you choose.
>>
>>935880
>>935877
>>935799
something like this would sturdy it up without having to rebuild it. If you have access to something that would cut metal, you could make similar brackets for free, you'd just have to be able to make holes for the screws (and of course find or purchase screws...which would be dirt cheap for your purpose
>>
>>935799
same guy who responded above again. Another method that would steal some of your storage space but would be cheaper would be to get pieces of wood to put in the corners to sturdy it up. You'd need 16 pieces for your application if you put a piece in every corner.

A last option could be to cut a thin piece of plywood or other thin wood and put behind your shelf (screwed into the rear of the shelves) With a backboard attached you provide strength and could also add something to allow you to hang these on the wall if you choose to do so. (picture hangers or something similar????
>>
File: 1453747228091.jpg (41 KB, 660x660) Image search: [Google]
1453747228091.jpg
41 KB, 660x660
>>935886
forgot pic. a scrap of 2x4 cut lengthwise would be cheap or free. it all depends on what you're using the shelves for. this last method would be cheaper but would definitely cut into your usable space. If it was mine and I wanted it sturdy and the most amount of usable space, I'd go with this>>935880 and the backboard idea (the combination would make it pretty darn sturdy imo.)
>>
>>935799
Just get new pegs/dowels.
>>
File: 1425953292103.jpg (257 KB, 720x1164) Image search: [Google]
1425953292103.jpg
257 KB, 720x1164
anyone have suggestions for ways to make stinky shoes smell good? I don't wear the kind in the picture and I'm kinda hoping it doesn't matter what kind of shoes they are but I'm mainly talking about tennis shoes. I buy a new pair, keep them out of the mud/water, only wear them for a few hours at a time and it never fails, within a couple of weeks, they smell like they've been submerged in a swamp. Smell is just horrid. I hear a lot of people saying that they wash their shoes in the washer, but I can't imagine that being helpful for more than a few minutes of clean smelling. Is there something I can put in my shoes when I'm not wearing them that will absorb moisture and odors?
>>
>>935893
Just stop sniffing them.
When they're on your feet no one should be able to smell them, unless you've got some terrible feet fungus.
>>
>>935896
i hope nobody else can smell them! I sometimes have to sit them outside when I take them off after working in them all day because I don't want my house smelling of mold
>>
Quick question for anyone who knows what they're doing in SketchUp.

Is there a way to quickly switch between an assembled state of my plans and an unassembled state, say with all parts laid out flat so I can easily see the dimensions of all the parts.
>>
>>935893
Baking soda
>>
>>935893
I've heard putting them in a freezer overnight helps kill off the bacteria that causes odour.

>>936050
Also this.
>>
>>936050
I tried that for a period several years ago. It was a nasty mess. Yes, I did remove the baking soda before I wore the shoes but inevitably some of the baking soda would still be in there and once my sweat hit it, it created a paste and my skin started to peel (yes I wear socks). I'm not sure exactly what reaction happened, but it was the end of that pair of shoes.

>>936052
I'll give this a try as I've tried everything else I can think of
>>
>>936221
Do it for at least overnight and put them in some sort of plastic bag or even better a jumbo ziplock bag so the smell doesn't contaminate for food/freezer.
>>
File: 0125162320b_HDR.jpg (2 MB, 2744x2792) Image search: [Google]
0125162320b_HDR.jpg
2 MB, 2744x2792
>>935702
>>935697
>>935695
I think this is going to work
>>
>>935893

baking soda is weak shit. by keeping the shoe drier it can delay the arrival of the fungus by a little bit, but once the colony is there, it does absolutely nothing. freezing is also completely useless coz the little beasties can survive it indefinitely.

you need strong medicine for this, and one such medicine is vinegar. dunk you shoes in 50/50 water/vinegar mix for a few minutes, then rinse for 10 minutes and leave to dry for 3 days. 99% of the odor will disappear. until a new colony grows 6 months later.
>>
>>935893
We're going to need a better picture, preferably a wider angle with more light.
>>
>>934575
I doubt that it's the case, but there are programmable RGB LEDs that would require only three pins for a single LED: power ground and data in. Normally they have 4 pins, the 4th bring data out. Just reiterating the fact that's already been pointed out: it could be anything.
>>
File: 71oaWxbqaPL._SL1500_.jpg (48 KB, 1500x1125) Image search: [Google]
71oaWxbqaPL._SL1500_.jpg
48 KB, 1500x1125
>>935880
Hey, I appreciate the input on it and I like the idea of it.

Do you think a bracket like this on the back might do the job as well if I give it some form of stability on the front? (Like putting a peg in between two boards on the front to keep it stable)

I might still just go with that idea since it is simple and a lot easier anyways, and probably more stable.
>>
>>935893
If the issue is bacteria and not fungal, which is most likely is, use heat.

A hot dryer will kill bacteria but it can be hard on shoes. If it is summer, a good way is to put them in a clear ziploc bag and place the bag in the back window of your car.

As for prevention, buy some talcum powder. Sprinkle it in your shoes every morning before you put them on. The talc will absorb some of your foot sweat and reduce stink. You can go a step further and buy a stinky shoe version which is a mix of cornstarch, baking soda, fragrance and some other stuff. They make the claims that it eliminates odor.

If you just want to mask some odor, stick a dryer sheet in them over night. They will stink again in a couple days when they wear off though.
>>
>>935893
I have retardedly sweaty feet. And kind of deal with the same issue. My solution has been to buy several pairs of the same shoe and alternate wearing em every other day. Also I change my socks and let my feet air out as soon as I get home.
>>
Where can i buy fireproof glass? Im makin a oven, and want to put a window in it, but have not found anything yet
>>
>>936411
>Do you think a bracket like this on the back might do the job as well if I give it some form of stability on the front? (Like putting a peg in between two boards on the front to keep it stable)
Same person you replied to here. I just thought of a risk of those brackets and that is if you're not careful when drilling, you may split your wood. I'd definitely drill pilot holes before inserting the screws. As for your idea to put pegs in, I'm not real sure where they'd go. Have you been to the store to look at brackets yet?
>>
>>936465
I do the same as soon as I get home, they come off to air out. A lot of people have said "wash your feet!" as a reply to this question in the past, and my response has always been "I DO!"

As for the multiple pairs of same shoe, I find that difficult as styles change and I can't buy more than one pair without knowing if they'll truly be comfortable first. I guess the multiple pairs wouldn't have to be the same...just wear a pair one day, then the next day leave them to air out while wearing second pair. What's odd is I only wear these shoes to work, so it's not like I'm wearing them seven days a week! Anytime I'm not working I'm wearing different shoes/flipflops/boots. It's a frustrating problem, I tell ya!


>>936419
good idea with the heat! Makes sense that any sweat that's present would dry up (like in the back of a hot car), I'll definitely try this!

I think I will try the talc powder idea as well as multiple pairs of shoes. If I can find something that I like enough, and are cheap enough, I'll buy at least two...maybe three pairs and alternate.

Are there certain socks that are better for such a problem? IIRC it's best to avoid cotton, but I could be completely wrong.
>>
File: 1437999054566.jpg (26 KB, 640x427) Image search: [Google]
1437999054566.jpg
26 KB, 640x427
>>936511
I took a brief look at some of the brackets when I went out, but came back because I wasn't quite sure what would do it. Hell, I don't even know if my roommate has a drill or anything, so I might need to pick something up in order to do so. I was looking at those brackets because then I could attach them onto the back of the shelf and it wouldn't stick out. Not that the appearance is really ALL that important, but it was a suggestion.

So the original method of placing a corner bracket in the middle is probably a safer bet in terms of not splitting the wood? (lel it isn't even wood it's like particle board)

I appreciate the help anon. Most of my /diy/ tinkering is usually more with electronic hardware, I've always been kind of hopeless when it came to things like this.
>>
>>936520
if you do drill it just go slow so you can stop if it does start splitting. I'm not a pro at anything but I've had plenty of experience rigging things up -haha- being poor forces you to look at alternative ways to do things for sure!
>>
>>936517
>>936465
I always suspected you could make a "shoe airer" out of an aquarium pump whose tube you fed all the way down the shoe into the toe.

But I never needed one, so that was as far as it went.
>>
File: ss700-hin[1].jpg (143 KB, 369x369) Image search: [Google]
ss700-hin[1].jpg
143 KB, 369x369
>>936574
>>936517
>>936465

Well, shit, Japan to the rescue.


>Shoe deodorizing, disinfecting and drying in one can.
>Intense deodorizing effects by Photocatalyst by ultraviolet light irradiation
>Elimination elimination of germs and bacteria, the internal fan heater
>Comfortable in your shoes in the 3 effects of moisture removal.
>>
>>936504
What kind of oven? Temp range. Open flames?

Have you considered taking the glass out of a junk oven?

Borosilicate glass is probably what you want. They make labware out of it.

>>936517
The heat is actually killing the bacteria, not drying up the sweat.

Cotton socks will wick away moisture. Synthetic socks will keep it on your feet.

Can you air your feet out during the day? I wear boots and my feet get nasty. At my old job I would take my boots off during my lunch since I worked alone. 30 min was enough to dry the feet out usually. Otherwise just change your socks half way through work.
>>
>>936612
my mistake about the heat:)

So cotton is what I want, I had that backwards. I bet my current socks are synthetic. All I know is that after a very short time of working, I can feet the coldness in my shoes (from my feet being wet with sweat, I know that seems odd, but I guess it's how sweating works elsewhere---get hot, produce sweat, air hits liquid, cools you off. So my feet are often cold but wet. When I was doing the backing soda, this sensation was multiplied several times. My feet would be freezing but if I took my shoe off and put my socked foot on the floor, there would be a wet foot print left behind. Crazy! I may start going to the restroom, drying my feet with a towel and changing socks as I used to do in the past
>>
File: 1.0x0.jpg (67 KB, 450x358) Image search: [Google]
1.0x0.jpg
67 KB, 450x358
Does anyone know of any solar garden lights that don't die after a week in the garden?

Or know of a way to get them to at least last longer.
>>
File: image.jpg (31 KB, 443x332) Image search: [Google]
image.jpg
31 KB, 443x332
>>936612
This kind of oven, i tought about using a spare part from a stove, but i actually want to make them and sell this
>>
>>936764
unfortunately no, every set I've ever bought the majority of them die in a short time. I usually just buy extras to replace the dead ones. Have you ever priced the batteries? (assuming it's the batteries that have failed and not the solar panel)
>>
>>936764
Dig up your garden and lay proper mains powered lights. Or at least SELV.
Can set them on a timer or photocell/pir.

If you wanted to DIY it you could convert the existing ones you have to wired
>>
>>936786
Unless that oven is going over 1000f any glass is fireproof. I think the glass in a regular oven is tempered but not Boro. A scrapyard might give or sell oven windows to you. You are just going to have to clean them. And you can't cut them. In mass quantity I would find out if you need boro or reg glass. A normal glass shop could probably order them for you bc shipping is a killer.
>>
>>936786
is that oven made out of wood?
>>
>>936913
your right regular wood will combust long before glass will melt. also wood can combust at long term low temps
>>
>>936911
So i just use double glass for insulation? Needs to be cool at touch,

>>936913 no, the inside is stainless, is a very common thing here, is called ataud, coffin would be the translation, you put a goat or pog inside, make a fire in the top and 5 hours later you eat the animal
>>
>>935893
>fill bucket with water
>fully submerge shoes
>drop in those survival water purifier tablets corellating to the volume of water
>leave for a few hours or overnight, dry

I guarantee you this shit works like a charm. hikers, bikers etc do this and its very effective. Chlorine kills bacteria that produce odor.
>>
Is there anything useful I can pull out of a non working window a/c unit
>>
> Is there anything useful I can pull out of a non working window a/c unit

- freon. you'll never get a better high from sniffing anything else.
- copper for scrap, worth $75 minimum
- a fan that will work for 20 years, as opposed to your Walmart fans that die after 2 seasons.
- relays for building sexy robot maids
- a compressor which you can use for all kinds of projects, or making cool vacuums you can put in a bottle and show your friends
- thermostats. you can never have enough
- a thermistor made of rare earth elements which you can ebay for big cash
- a fucking motor capacitor. charge it up and discharge on your friends necks for hours of fun.
- a cool window case. put an acrylic sheet on the front and your cat will love to sit in it and watch the birds.
>>
>>937256
Thanks bud. My cat died so no cool window cat box thing. But much appreciated.
>>
>>936893
Might be worth taking some apart one day and working out what fails.

>>936900
This place actually had mains powered lights before. They got torn to shreds though because the owners don't look after their shit, the whole place needs to be fixed. Renting so putting in something permanent myself isn't an option.
>>
>>937324
>Might be worth taking some apart one day and working out what fails.
yes!! they're obviously cheaply made since the stores can sell them for $2-3 each. If someone could figure out what the cheap part(s) are, replace them with higher quality, we'd all be better off
>>
File: _DSF3593.jpg (275 KB, 1000x667) Image search: [Google]
_DSF3593.jpg
275 KB, 1000x667
Hi /diy/.

I've bought a spare film back for my medium format camera and I planned to expland the 35mm frame width to be panoramic (like a Hassleblad xpan).
I started taking the back apart and found out the maximum area I can cut it 24x56 instead of 24x65.

However I also found out that although the covers on both sides were plastic, the frame appears to be metal. I was planning to use a craft knife/sandpaper to do this but it seems I'll probably need some sort of file.
What tool should I use to do this and will I be able to pick it up at a local DIY store? It needs to be small enough to fit in a 24/36mm space.

Sorry for the poor picture.
>>
File: wrist_strap.jpg (24 KB, 387x280) Image search: [Google]
wrist_strap.jpg
24 KB, 387x280
Does anyone have any good recommendations for an anti-static wristband? I've never bought one before so I don't know what to look for.
>>
>>937256
>copper for scrap, worth $75 minimum

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

For real though an average window unit will net you MAYBE $20 and that's all the metal. You can get $60 a good day for a large central air unit.
>>
>>937566
Cheap and cheerful with an even more cheerful name http://www.amazon.co.uk/chinkyboo-Anti-Static-Adjustable-Grounding-Dispatch/dp/B004XBBYSY

Seriously a wrist strap is just a resistive path (about 1 mega-ohm) between you and the item being touched.
>>
>>937577
Thanks, they don't deliver to the US though so I'll find an alternative.
>>
>>937585
http://www.amazon.com/Anti-Static-Wrist-Strap-Grounding-Adjustable/dp/B002O6U65W
>>
>>936764
I have heard that a major issue with the lifespan of them is the cheap ones have plastic covers for solar cells. which fog slightly with uv exposure. So a headlight cleaning kit will revive them for another 3-6 months.
Really, only 4 parts to break: solar panel, lightbulb, battery, or wiring. Oh, they also tend to have shitty batteries.
Look for whatever brand has a glass top, these tend to be built better, and you should only need to replace batteries/bulbs every few years.
>>
I replaced my water heater's outlet connector. Not seeing/hearing any leaks. I'm getting hot water from the faucets, and pressure looks good.

But, I do hear a clacking noise at the faucet when I turn on the hot water. It's what I imagine small pebbles banging around a metal pipe would sound like. Sediment from the pipes/water heater? How bad would it be to just leave it and put up with the noise?
>>
I want to start growing food, especially potatoes and/or sweet potatoes, but live in a miniscule apartment in urban Chicago and will be moving out come June. Is there anything I can do now or should I just wait?
>>
>>939063
Rinse in rubbing alcohol to remove germs, rinse in water to remove rubbing alcohol.
>>
>>939063
The tablets you get for sterilising baby bottles.

Use as directed.
>>
>>939081
>>939078
20 minute boil on a stove will do it as well.
>>
>>938995
You can plant potatoes in 5 gallon buckets.

>>939063
Get a second set to use for food safe applications... Heat, bleach, alcohol, and a bunch of other shit will kill germs.
>>
Anyone ever bought steel and raw metal from amazon? I need some tube to make a go kart but its expensive as fuck at Lowes/home depot (like at least $100 just for enough for the frame) because lolalaska, but on amazon its comparitvely cheap as fuck. In particular I'm looking at this:

Unpolished (Mill) 1008-1010 Steel Square Tube, 2" Height, 0.83" Wall Thickness, 8' Length: $42.51

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TPHJYS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Yay or nay?
>>
What sort of price would I be looking at for an entry level table saw? Any recommendations on make/model?
>>
Hey guys, got a question about speaker input wiring. While I'm putting everything together, just let me know the thread's still alive.
>>
>>940905
bonjour
>>
>>940905
Thread has been up for about 2 weeks man. I think you're good. Things move relatively slowly here on /diy/
>>
>>935538
Also look into OpenSCAD. If you have any background in programming, you can easily create objects that can be scaled and generated according to variables.
>>
>>935598
Get a pyrex cassarole dish for the etching, and use pyrex lab bottles if you're storing.
Plain glass snapple bottles or whatever works just fine as well.
Borosilicate glass is non-reactive to all but the most exotic substances.

Yes, you can pour NaOH down the drain, run the faucet for ~30 seconds afterword. Dilute it with some vinegar if you're really worried, but, as another anon has said, it's the same chemical used in drain cleaner, and at a lower concentration than commercial formulations, so it'll be fine to pour it right down the drain.
>>
File: jacked up.jpg (202 KB, 1052x600) Image search: [Google]
jacked up.jpg
202 KB, 1052x600
>>940917
>>940941

Sorry for the wait guys, something came up. Anyways, I recently ordered some sound equipment. I made sure I double-checked the inputs and outputs on everything before ordering it and was under the impression that I would be able to run a cable from the amp to each speaker. The ports on the amp are speakon and I was expecting the speakers to take 1/4" mono (not TRS) plugs, instead the speakers only have those shitty spring-clip connectors. My question is, which way would be the best way to fix this?

As I see it, my choices are tearing the 1/4" ends off of the cables I have and plugging the bare wires into the spring-clips, possibly crimping on pins to reduce corrosion and ensure a more stable connection.

OR

Replace the spring-clips in the speakers with 1/4" plugs.

Extra info: This is a non-permanent setup that will be put up, torn down, and packed away numerous times a month. The amp's peak is 3000 watts and the speaker impedance is 8 ohms. Can provide pics and more info as needed.

>Tl;dr: Picture
>>
>>941061
Don't use TRS plugs for connecting a stereo to the speakers or anything else higher power than headphones. The two terminals of the plug will be shorted together as you insert it into the socket and they both come into contact with the its shield. This can damage your stereo. It was designed for 8Ω speakers, not 0.01Ω pieces of wire.
>>
>>941067

I was reading a bunch of stuff against TRS, am I correct in assuming I can remove the TRS from the cable and just use the bare wires in the spring clips? It seems logical from an electrical standpoint but I'm no expert.
>>
>>935893
Chucks? Just toss'em and get another pair.
Unless something's changed, they're not meant to last forever.

I used to go through two or three pairs a year, now I buy more comfortable shoes and still go through two or three pairs a year.
>>
File: 16-14 GA PIN TERMINAL.gif (52 KB, 600x526) Image search: [Google]
16-14 GA PIN TERMINAL.gif
52 KB, 600x526
>>934023

if you have some skills, you can do that. i would crimp one of these pin crimp terminals on the end of the wire since you're gonna be connecting and disconnecting all the time. it's a lot more long-lasting than tinning the wires. and bring along some extra crimp terminals in case the wire breaks. they come in diff sizes: red / blue / yellow in increasing size.
>>
Thinking about hanging my 60in tv cheaply by using some french cleats. Attaching a piece of wood with machine screws to the back of the tv, so the weight is distributed evenly across the other cleat and hanging it. The tv weights about 80lbs. The cleats are rated for about 200ls. Would this work? I'm trying to find the depth of the holes for the back so i'm not putting any excess force into any necessary components. Thoughts?
>>
>>941185
>Thoughts?

sounds like a fine plan except if you have kids, esp teens, or TV buddies who like to drink.
the screws typically go about 8mm into the back of the TV. you can stick a toothpick in the holes to measure depth.
>>
If I wanted to make some decent audio cables for myself, what kind of difficulty am I looking at? Is there a good place for parts?

For specifics, I'm wanting to make cables that go from right-angle 3.5mm TRS to dual RCA. The purpose is to go from my PC Sound Card to my A/V receiver. I can do without Right-angle TRS if the straight connectors are small enough to not crowd each other.

I purchased some cables for this very purpose, but when I crank the receiver, there is noticeable hum. They're supposedly shielded so I don't know where this hum might be coming from. Doesn't happen with some other cables.
>>
File: adapters.jpg (342 KB, 1000x881) Image search: [Google]
adapters.jpg
342 KB, 1000x881
>>941394

a thrift store might have the adapter you need, or the constituent parts to make your own by splicing cables. splicing is much easier for a noob than having to solder to connectors; you can do it with just a knife and some electrical tape.
>>
>>934588
Since you mentioned the led is RGB (since it can produce red, blue, and green) but seemingly has only three terminals, some advanced shit like reversed polarity is going on. If you are sure about orange led, poke around the mouse to find some points where the voltage is constant regardless of chosen dpi. Then find your Orange led, appropriate resistor so you don't fry the thing and wire it in place. Not sure if removing old Led can seriously break something, if you wanna be extra sure just leave it there, only tape it with some black tape so it doesn't show.
>>
>>941427
I'm not exactly a noob. I've soldered before, most recently to swap out good and bad switches on a mouse.

I'm looking for something a little less "janky" than a bunch of adapters strung together. I could do that no problem without asking 4chan...
>>
File: stuff.png (67 KB, 1319x720) Image search: [Google]
stuff.png
67 KB, 1319x720
I'm gonna make like an arduino-powered hardware PC disabler.

The idea is to have the microcontroller+RTC have different modes of operation, for example turn on at 8:00 every day, soft-turnoff at 9:00, then disables the power switch for the rest of the day.

The RTC is working fine, i am using an adafruit library that seems simplest for me and works best but I haven't figured the toggle switch and how to debounce it correctly, also power-good sensing is screwed up.
>>
>>941281
There is already a brace on the back for a legitimate wall mount, so i probably won't need to makeshift a wooden brace. The next problem is the bottom won't be secure. Which also wouldn't be a problem since people won't be bumping into it or anything
>>
>>941451
Look up the optimal cable type for the signal type you're sending, then use that. Decent tier cable is cheap enough by the meter to make what you need if you are serious about a clean signal.

FWIW I made a bunch of patch leads for my home studio using phantom mic cable (reads; shield and two signal cables). My only regret is cheaping out on the TRS jacks. They are crunchy as hell but the signal is otherwise noise free. Even if you don't exploit balanced signalling the cable quality is such that the shield actually does it's job and keeps stray signal out. Just make sure you tie the spare conductor to sleeve if you don't use it.
>>
What is the name of the type of nut that has slots cut in the top.
Like the Castle nuts, but the slots are what you actually drive them with.

I have a tool that has 2 pegs, they move back and forth to fit those nuts to drive them. I broke it and want to replace it, but can't find anything because I'm drawing a blank
>>
>>941463
Why d'ya need to debounce it?

The motherboard already does, so just convey the signal faithfully.
>>
>>941463
add a small ceramic capacitor between the switch terminals (hardware debouncing)
tie one side of switch to ground
and tie one to pin 2 (so u can use interrupts)
enable internal pullup resistor using
pinMode(2,INPUT);digitalWrite(2,HIGH);
attachInterrupt(0,FALLING,yourfunctionhere);

source i do it all the time works fine low part count
>>
since crickets chirp at different rates based on temperature can i make an oven controlled oscillator out of a cricket?
>>
I have an old 1986s small TV (Salora 14L10 type L104) that I want to use, but the only input on the back is a 7 pin large type DIN connector (pic related).

Anyone know what input this might expect? Googling suggests S-Video based on the number of pins but I don't know anything about these things so googling is useless.
>>
File: salora_14l10_15l30.gif (26 KB, 930x685) Image search: [Google]
salora_14l10_15l30.gif
26 KB, 930x685
>>942137

looks like it's RGB + Sync + Audio in
>>
>>941061
Spring clips work perfectly fine, just solder the ends of the wire to keep them from fraying. You could use banana plugs if you really don't like spring clips but that anon already said all that needs to be said about 1/4" and 3.5mm plugs
>>
File: 02938523.png (328 KB, 508x523) Image search: [Google]
02938523.png
328 KB, 508x523
Any idea where I could find these countersunk magnets with with opposite polarities, so that the countersunk bits would face away from eachother. basically every 2nd magnet would be the other way around.
>>
>>942187
Factory would do that if you need more than just a few of them. IIRC chinamen would be willing to do batches of 100 custom magnets or so.
Or just use ring magnets and suitably shaped pole pieces.
>>
File: 20160205_155829.jpg (2 MB, 3264x2448) Image search: [Google]
20160205_155829.jpg
2 MB, 3264x2448
my floor lamp fell over and broke. I know nothing about this sort of thing so I was curious if this was fixable? I priced new lamps similar to this one and they run about $50 so I thought I'd see if it was possible to fix this one instead. I know they make kits that you can use to make lamps, I wonder if they sell them for floor lamps as well (the only difference I assume is the length of the cord)
>>
>>942187
if you can build an electromagnet you can theoretically re-magnetize them in any orientation you want. I don't know how strong the field would have to be, though.
>>
>>942546
They sell replacement sockets at hardware stores. Is that all that's wrong with it?
>>
File: 20160205_155647.jpg (2 MB, 3264x2448) Image search: [Google]
20160205_155647.jpg
2 MB, 3264x2448
>>942568
as far as I can tell. I took multiple pictures that might show different things to you (I can't tell anything )
>>
sup /diy/ i had to slam on the brakes the other night to avoid hitting this guy who pulled out in front of me. After this my ((brake)) light came on and it's been a little harder to stop. Doesn't feel unsafe, but the pedal travel is a bit further. What could be the cause of this?
>>
>>942582
are you wearing latex gloves?
>>
>>942187
check the packaging. They may have two different sets depending on which pole they are countersunk.
>>
File: lamp socket.jpg (6 KB, 275x275) Image search: [Google]
lamp socket.jpg
6 KB, 275x275
>>942582

you wanna get one of these, but with a longer shaft for the turn-switch. just unhook the 2 wires from the old one and attach to the new one. youtube has videos showing which wire goes where (live goes to center terminal). or you try try to re-use your original switch shaft, they tend to be somewhat standard; female thread around 4/40 size.
>>
>>942611
ABS? You just wore down the brake pads noticeably from before you slammed on the brakes.

They're probably fine, if you're not getting the brake pedal vibrations that signal it's time for new pads, but if you're worried, go to a mechanic for an inspection.
>>
>>942679
maybe take a peek at the brake fluid reservoir and see if its at the correct levels or if the float is actually floating on top of the fluid. I had an issue earlier his winter where my dash brake light started coming on intermittently and then came on all the time but the brakes still worked fine. checked the reservoir and the floater had somehow gotten a little bit "sunk". i.e. it wasn't floating on top of the fluid... pulled the cap off (with floater attached) and re-set the cap and the light went off and hasn't come back on since. and the brakes continue to function as normal. so seems the floater was triggering a false low brake fluid level which triggers the brake light in the dash.
>>
>>942679
>brake pedal vibrations
often tells you the rotor is slightly out of round or slightly warped which is often caused by uneven or over torqued lug nuts. usually not a huge problem if just a slight vibration. more an annoyance than anything. I drove a car for years with slightly warped rotors never had a problem stopping the car. possibly the pads may wear down a bit faster but pads are cheap and easy peasy to change. rotors sometimes are cheap but a little more involved to swap out.
>>
>>942679
>time for new pads
when you hear a metal on metal scraping sound - of course when you hear this it is too late; you will need new rotors in addition to new pads.
>>
>>934543
this.
EVERY power strip I own has a flickering light after a year or more yet everything plugged in still continues to function as normal.
if the flickering is annoying - like the one in my bedroom was at night in the dark - you can put a piece of opaque (electrical) tape over it to block the light.
>>
>Just get new pegs/dowels.
this.
they sell various sizes at typical hardware shoppe. or buy a long dowel rod (wood) of the correct diameter and cut your pegs to length. both of these options are cheap cheap cheap.
>>
>>942679
>just wore down the brake pads noticeably from before you slammed on the brakes
really? from ONE braking instance the pad was worn down THAT much?! um. no.
try again.
>>
>>942728
must have been using those new chinese cardboard brake pads.
>>
File: Capture2.png (50 KB, 796x219) Image search: [Google]
Capture2.png
50 KB, 796x219
What's the best way to attach a small nut to a piece of steel? I tried JB Weld but the bond wasn't as strong as it needed to be. I accidentally cross threaded a screw and the nut twisted off with zero resistance. After that failed I tried soldering but I can't get my solder to wet to my stainless steel nuts. Should I get different nuts? Different solder? Flux? I solder small electronics quite often with no issues but I'm not very familiar with brazing (or even if that's the right term). The first thing I tried was roughing up the surface of the nut but it didn't help with the JB Weld or solder. Will small brass nuts be better?

I'm trying to make supports for an old modified keyboard. I'm using the steel plate (not stainless) without the PCB so I'm just trying to attach a nut to the PCB clips.

Please and thanks.

The innuendos are unintended.
>>
File: IMG_2436.jpg (6 KB, 150x144) Image search: [Google]
IMG_2436.jpg
6 KB, 150x144
>>942772
I'll give you the benefit of the doubt and assume this isn't b8

Weld it, preferably TIG but whatever you can get.
If not then drill a hole through the plate and the nut then tap a thread into it and use a bolt. I'm not a fan of glue so I can't really recommend any specific ones.
>>
>>942787
Why would it be b8?

I'm trying to avoid using glue since it didn't work the first time I tried.

I won't be able to weld because I don't know how nor do I have the equipment. This is a little side project and paying someone else to do it will cost more than I want to spend.

Also, there is no room to drill through the top of the plate, as I have other parts mounted to it and I do not have the equipment to safely drill through the side of a nut.

Thanks though
>>
>>942796
Sorry man, I can't help you if you don't have any tools to work with
>>
File: 145482006729324.jpg (42 KB, 188x141) Image search: [Google]
145482006729324.jpg
42 KB, 188x141
>>942816
>>
File: bracket.jpg (22 KB, 493x607) Image search: [Google]
bracket.jpg
22 KB, 493x607
>>942820

you'd need some very fine tools to drill and tap a typical nut. a better idea would be to reshape the bracket so you can drill and tap it, instead of using a nut. or, if you dont have a tap, you can use some cage nuts.
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQ6uyFdRvs0
Watched this and am simultaneously stoked as hell and somewhat overwhelmed. Any good resources on building and living off-the-grid innadesert?
>>
File: 1441445848300.png (535 KB, 550x873) Image search: [Google]
1441445848300.png
535 KB, 550x873
my shower has mold but it only sticks to the silicone , what should i do ? citric acid or remov the silycone?

ive tried countless cleaners , and brushing and steaming

any advice ?
>>
What are some good lights for a small short term live in cabin? In total about 7-800 sq foot. Im fine with spending some money on the lights, as long as they do not consume a lot of watts. So far I've been looking at some LED recessed dome lights.
>>
>>942755
lol Idk what kind they are, they were on the veh. when I bought it. the reservoir has 2 "compartments" on has a hole in it--that side is empty while the other side is nearly full so I assume it's where it needs to be. Light is still on on the dash GRR!
>>
>>942631
I am, but not because of this, I was wearing them for something else and remembered I needed to take pics of the lamp to post.
>unrelated
>>
Where's a good place to buy carbon fiber tubes? Searching brings up a slew of options. Are they a standard sort of thing now? I know Dragonplate but that shit's expensive and I don't need performance.
>>
I have an old RCA cabinet radio and turntable with a remote speaker, from the 60's that i took out of my grandmas house before she died as a favor to my mother.


It has no real sentimental value for anyone in the family.

the electronics work. but the cabinet needs some tlc.


should i refinish it, and fix it up, maybe add a ( removable in the future) wine/ liquor cabinet to the top to make it more useful in my small apartment?


or craigs list/ ebay it and make room for a scratch build sideboard/ liquor cabinet?
>>
>>943349
I'd give it some TLC just for fun. If it's veneered then sell it, not much fun to work with.
>>
File: master-cylinder.png (16 KB, 605x500) Image search: [Google]
master-cylinder.png
16 KB, 605x500
>>943327
not an expert but I think both 'compartments' should be full. at least on cars I've owned that had two compartments within the master brake cylinder they were always both full. my current car has only one plastic reservoir [which is of course full].
the thing is if one is empty and air has gotten into the brake lines the whole system needs to be 'bled'. it can be DIY to bleed the brakes but it can also be tricky. if you don't have any clue best to have the mechanic do it. plus there may be a leak or other problem with your master cylinder and it may need to be changed out.
>>
File: 2690b.gif (36 KB, 363x246) Image search: [Google]
2690b.gif
36 KB, 363x246
>>943474
...cont.
point being that just pouring some more brake fluid into the empty side won't completely fix the problem. brakes are a hydraulic system and there can't be any air in the lines. air in the lines reduces the hydraulic pressure thus making the brake pedal feel 'soft' [also reducing your braking power to stop the car] or worst situation not work at all.
>>
I'm not sure if this is the right board to go to, but anyway I've been thinking of trying out woodcarving for a while but I'm not sure where to start. I found a few beginner guides in the library but I have no idea where to get the materials and tools. Any suggestions?
>>
>>943478
I do wood carving. Research which types of wood are best for carving and maybe ask around, if you can get wood for free, you'll save money! As for tools, everything I've done has been with power tools, they save a lot of time compared to manual ones, plus manual type tools require a lot of work. I'd recommend an angle grinder with a blade similar to this one. It's not cheap to get into but once you start making things and selling them, it won't take long to recoup your initial costs. I also use a die grinder for more intricate details. (of course for that you'll need access to an air compressor).

I'm sure there are other options for wood carving, those are just what I'm familiar with that I know work well. I've found that other tools require so much physical effort and time, especially if your piece is larger.

I can't think of the name of the blade I've posted, but I know it's like $30-60 for just that. Good luck!
>>
>>943749
have you ever thought about what happens if that touches flesh?
>>
>>943765
yes I have. Someone in class had it go across her arm/chest. Her clothes slowed it down obviously, but it did quite a bit of damage. Looked quite painful

it cut through wood very easily so you can imagine what it would do to flesh
>>
>>943772
ow

i've seen the kind in magazines that are basically a chainsaw chain in a loop - haven't seen one of those knobbly ones before
>>
>>943773
I've never used the chainsaw ones. I like the one in the picture because you can use the edge like you would with the chainsaw type, and you can also use the side. It's a heavy duty sanding basically. It'll eat through it though if you need it to!
>>
>>943773
That's the lancelot.

Here's some implements of destruction for you, with various burrs like the one anon posted.
http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/Power-Carving-Tools/departments/692/
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/power-carvers-accessories.aspx
>>
>>943332
McMaster Carr.
>>
File: 20160210_200146.jpg (1 MB, 2448x3264) Image search: [Google]
20160210_200146.jpg
1 MB, 2448x3264
sup /qtddtot/

I am respraying a large hunk of pic related metal with rattle cans, and I keep getting these lines on my surfaces. This is the third layer, about an hour old so touch dry; Each layer has been cross hatched and lightly sanded between, what am I doing wrong here (apart from using rattle cans)?
>>
How much would it cost to get a custom pcb done for a soc type computer? I'd like to try and make some sort of diy smartphone
Where would I look to find out about this kind of stuff?
>>
>>944525
Start the spray before and don't end it until after you pass. Get one of those clip on spray gun things, makes it more consistent.

And for God's sake, don't spray it out in the open. Do it in a garage or something.

The only other thing I can think of is you're holding the can too close.
>>
>>944552
> Start the spray before and don't end it until after you pass.
Check.

> Get one of those clip on spray gun things, makes it more consistent.
I assume you mean some sort of clip on handle that lets you hold a tin like a spray gun? This is technology I am unfamiliar with.

> And for God's sake, don't spray it out in the open.
Check, was sprayed in a closed garage, just moved it out for the photo because the defect doesn't really show so well under fluorescent light.

> The only other thing I can think of is you're holding the can too close.
I usually shoot from about 20cm and don't normally see this. While the tin says 20-30cm it is the first time I've used this brand/type of paint so maybe it's a little more fiddly on distance. I still have to paint the last coat and other half of this chassis so I'll try going further out and see what happens, I just don't want to loose another can to a poor quality finish.

Cheers anon.
>>
first time posting on /diy/ and i felt i should post this question here than posting a new thread about it.

how much would it be to make my own computer desk? i know there isnt an EXACT number, but what im asking is a guesstimation of sorts. If i did build it it would be an L-shaped desk and i would be primarily be using it for gaming and general computer use. L(long)xL(stub)xWxH probably would be about give or take 54inx30inx24inx24-26in (only reason for the height is cause im a 6'5 giant and i beileve it would be abit more comfortable for a taller desk as well) my current desk is LxWxH is 4ftx2ftx28in and im hoping this extra amount of desk space will help out alot.

if anyone can help that would be great, any and all advice would be appreciated!
>>
>>944698
First, settle on a design. You can can get a sheet of MDF and about 10/12 feet of 2x4 if you're willing to screw into a wall (two legs that are around four feet, then screw the rest into the wall to support the backside). The price and difficulty of the build can skyrocket from there.

I'm not trying to be a dick, just saying we don't have enough information. Grab a picture from some place like ikea of the kind of desk you're looking for.
>>
>>944702
no i understand completely where your coming from, so you dont have to apologize.

this is roughly what i would want to build minus the drawers, i like the space on top but it wouldnt be the end of the world if i didnt have that, plus if i made my own desk i could always tag that on later
>>
>>944717
The next question for you is how pretty do you want it?
>>
>>944719
i would like it to be aesthetically pleasing no doubt
and that's also my biggest problem cause i know im not TOO great at /diy/ stuff but i like building my own things for the sense of accomplishment as well as the whole building process, so its really just a matter of am i willing to shell out X amount of money for a good looking desk or take the risk and build one from scratch and hope i dont fuck up somewhere in the process.
>>
diy noob here. I want to make a dresser/chest of drawers style thing out of this kitchen cupboard.
First, how can I best cover the glass? Put a layer of wood on top of the whole door? but maybe I could just make it milky.
The I want to paint it.
And then add legs. What should I pay attention to? What advice do you have, how would YOU do it?
>>
>>944749
oh and I also want to put other handles higher up
>>
>>944749
I'd build a small base (with legs) and set the cabinet on that to make it look more like it was supposed to be a piece of furniture that sits on the floor. can you not take the glass out and put 1/4" wood panels in its place?
layer of wood over the whole door is going to look crappy.
there is vinyl sticker material you can stick onto the glass to give that 'frosted' look. or try to lightly spray paint the glass to get frosted look. or there might even be a spray paint specifically for that.
then there's the actual way to frost glass - with an etching acid; but probably don't want to mess with that.
>>
File: 1455144772285.jpg (163 KB, 1124x925) Image search: [Google]
1455144772285.jpg
163 KB, 1124x925
>>944805
crude photoshop of what I'm talkin' about...

could actually be a pretty nice book case if done reasonably well.

could even build in some hidden compartments in the new base...
>>
>>944809
>>944805
wow thanks a lot
any good link on how to do this stuff, especially the base?
>>
>>942787
>>942816
>>942820
>>942883
So I ended up buying some brass nuts in the size I needed. A little bit of flux and the solder wet to it so easily. The end result was a much stronger bond than anything I could glue and significantly less fiddly than drilling and tapping a small nut. Also it allowed me to customize it a bit since I unfortunately put one of the screws in the wrong spot.
>>
>>944569
You sound like you know what you are doing for the most part. It is entirely possible that the paint itself is bad or that it is not adhering properly to the surface.

With the spray paint I usually use, it says to wait more than 15 minutes but less than an hour otherwise wait more than 24 hours for an additional coat. Maybe double check drying times?

But as always, it's better to do more light coats than one heavy coat.
>>
File: 9001hours.jpg (377 KB, 1560x1014) Image search: [Google]
9001hours.jpg
377 KB, 1560x1014
>>944926
Turns out the paint is just kind of thick and flows like shit, larger particles which seems to lead to the lines. Dusted a few coats on from 40 odd centimeters and it blended out, then applied all coats from the same distance on the top shell. Came out much better but it's has a real powdery finish. Perhaps shooting from too far and the paint was drying before hitting the surface. If it doesn't clean up after a rag down I might need to clear coat it or something to seal it. Meh. Still looks shit hot.

In unrelatedly related news, this encoder is from that same device. I have not seen an infrared sensor with two pickups before. They are labelled A and B. The encoder disk is also different to the slotted ones I am used to seeing. It seems to have small pyramids which presumably split the IR for each receiver. I should expect to see signals like pic related when it's running yes?
>>
>>944994
>thick paint
Squeegee. Seriously, it works pretty well, since you can't inject mineral spirits into a rattlecan.

One of the reasons I finally bit the bullet and got an inline filter for my air compressor and a spray gun. Makes painting so much easier, even if I lose the convenience of a rattlecan.
>>
How do I go about mounting this monitor above these others? Is some metal pipe and a plate with a hinge in it going to work?
>>
I have a winding alarm clock, and it has a speed adjustment lever marked Slow to Fast. Do I adjust it to "fast" going to make it faster, or do I select the opposite setting, like choose Fast if it is too fast?
>>
File: DIY_BINGO.jpg (147 KB, 600x600) Image search: [Google]
DIY_BINGO.jpg
147 KB, 600x600
>>945200
Anything is possible dude.
>>
File: pic.jpg (1 MB, 2000x1125) Image search: [Google]
pic.jpg
1 MB, 2000x1125
I'm assuming this is mold. what do I do?
>>
>>945417
Call an expert.
>>
>>945415
fuck off with this cancer.
>>
Pulled a work lamp out of storage and there's a bit of tarnish (rust?) on the springs and the light deflector, what's the easiest way to deal with it?
>>
>>943328
ur qt
>>
>>946120
you being serious or sarcastic?
>>
File: DSC_0239.jpg (3 MB, 3840x2160) Image search: [Google]
DSC_0239.jpg
3 MB, 3840x2160
Hey /Diy/ I found this thing in a parking lot near my house and I'm extremely confused as to what it is. It looks like a shock of some sort but it has 3 prongs on the one end and a connector of sorts on the thin end. Anyone know what it might be?
Pic related
>>
probably a stupid place to ask but

the paint on my laptop speaker grills is peeling
the laptop speaker grills are aluminium (probably).

buying new ones would cost like 50 bucks.

How do I repaint them?

Peel off the paint, light sanding then spray?
What kind of paint?
>>
>>946227
It's 1/3 of a light saber. You need a JO crystal and an emitter.
>>
File: 1395416419752.jpg (138 KB, 590x365) Image search: [Google]
1395416419752.jpg
138 KB, 590x365
I need to buy a bipolar wall wart power supply for an amp I'm building but all I can find online are the schematics to DIY. I don't want to spend time on the power supply itself, is there an online place that sells them?
>>
File: 0214161703a.jpg (3 MB, 4160x2340) Image search: [Google]
0214161703a.jpg
3 MB, 4160x2340
I have here a pair of ATH AD700 that I bought over 4 years ago, and every time the cable moves even slightly I get crackling and loss of sound in my right speaker. This only started happening a few days ago.

I know the problem is not the jack, because I tested this on 2 different devices and get the same problem.
The left speaker has no problems when the wires move.
No amount of spinning, shaking, or tapping on the Right can makes the sound go out.

So all this tells me is that it must have to do with the speaker wires for the right speaker that are connected to the left speaker.
At first I thought that maybe the wires just needed resoldered because they were getting loose, but that didn't fix the problem.

So now I only have two ideas in mind. Maybe I need to cut the ends off the two right speaker wires, sand off the lacquer, and resolder them, or perhaps this is some sort of interference problem and I need to move the wires around?

Please help. I don't have the money to spend on new headphones.

Pic is my left speaker. The thin black jacket with the thin red and orange wires is what feeds the right speaker.
>>
>>946632
Nevermind. I figured out this dumb fucking problem. The answer was some damaged wire further down the cable from being in a tight knot for so long.
>>
File: hp_0957-2146.jpg (50 KB, 545x486) Image search: [Google]
hp_0957-2146.jpg
50 KB, 545x486
>>946560

a lot of HP's bubble-jet printers use these 3-wire transformers with ground, +16V and +32V. if you use the +16 as ground, then you get a bipolar +-16V supply. these can be found at the thrift store for about $3. given that they're switching power supplies, they may introduce noise. depends on the amp and what the signal levels are. an alternative is to use two separate wall-warts, and wire them in series.
>>
File: 1426305957337.png (177 KB, 640x299) Image search: [Google]
1426305957337.png
177 KB, 640x299
I have this Suunto heart rate belt in pic related which its elastic is damaged before the wetting areas, in that area the tissue is loose and has little stripes of elastic going out.

Any ideas of how to fix it and which tools I need to do it?
>>
>>947020
New elastic, a pair of scissors, thread, and a needle.
>>
>>947102

dont think it's that simple, coz there's almost certainly wiring going from one probe to the other, so you'd have to be extremely careful in disassembling it. also, it looks like the snaps that close the belt are actually electrical contacts that make the connection from probe to probe.
>>
would fired clay material function as a propane furnace to melt iron
>>
>>948158
You mean, like pottery clay? You'd have to make sore it's absolutely dry after firing, and you'd probably still have problems with exploding bricks.

Just get refractory bricks.
>>
File: 001d090939ea15496f300a.jpg (60 KB, 600x400) Image search: [Google]
001d090939ea15496f300a.jpg
60 KB, 600x400
I wanted to create on my own some custom window guards, kinda pic related but smaller, for a double window that is 160x120, but I don't know where to start with the metal, should I use steel? I'm not sure what I need for soldering the bars properly either, if I solder them wrongly maybe they can be broken with a crowbar or something like that, I want to prevent stuff like this. Any suggestions?
>>
>>948460
You arent going to be soldering iron bars together, they need welded.

Its only supposed to be a deterrent from random thieves, if someone actually wants in they will have a battery powered grinder and cut the bars out in 60 seconds.
>>
>>948464
oh well I wanted to keep the house safe for when I'm away long periods of time, maybe cobalt would be better than steel? though I don't know much about this metal and I bet it costs more, I wanted it to be as cheap as possible.
>>
File: barre-slide3.jpg (41 KB, 640x280) Image search: [Google]
barre-slide3.jpg
41 KB, 640x280
>>948460 (cont.)
I was looking at the prices for steel and it costs less than I thought, how much do you think I would need for a window like this? looks like it shouldn't need more than a hundredweight.
>>
>>948469
Cobalt would be horrendously expensive, and no more durable than steel.
There's really no way too keep a determined thief out of your house, especially if you're away foot long periods of time.

Put bars on the windows and a sturdy door, and you'll keep opportunistic thieves out, but you'll be inviting more determined thieves in, since if you've got a lot of security, you've got valuable stuff.
>>
>>948460
>>948460
move to a better neighbourhood.

but srsly, burgular bars dont do shit. the most they do is prevent casual home invasion or kids from smashing a window and stealing something small.

anyone looking to steal your TV can just pry up your roofing and cut a hole through your ceiling.
>>
File: screwdriver.png (277 KB, 1119x855) Image search: [Google]
screwdriver.png
277 KB, 1119x855
Is there a good mini screwdriver set with long attachable bits for electronics work?

I recently had my little screwdriver bit baaaarely be able to reach the screw in a hole in a bluetooth speaker i wanted to open.

So im in the market for a all-in-one screwdriver that has long thin bits. not regular screwdriver size like i have now. But then I decided i wanted it to be a ratchet set. Then it'd be nice if it had a light...the features piled on and im left with pic related.

nevermind the clear magnetizable bits, i need long bits but prefer them to be extendable and not alter the girth of the bit (hence the hole inside the bit in the picture!)

Is there anything like a swiss army knife of mini screwdrivers?
>>
What would be the best way to go about making a custom power supply for one of these boys? They take 4x D-size batteries, so if it's even remotely possible I think it'd be fun to get a way to use him without needing to buy those fucking lumps of annoyance all the time.

The remote takes AAAs, but I already have rechargeables in that size.
>>
>>936517
you could try socks like this

http://www armysurplusworld com/product.asp?ProductID=55503
>>
in what ways do you guys stay organized?
my roomie and i rent this place so nothing terribly permanent. i just cant keep this shit neatish. also just general house organization tips are appreciated
>>
File: WP_20160218_12_15_52_Pro.jpg (3 MB, 4208x2368) Image search: [Google]
WP_20160218_12_15_52_Pro.jpg
3 MB, 4208x2368
>>948600
sorry
>>
File: USB powerpack 2600mAh Sanyo.jpg (17 KB, 960x520) Image search: [Google]
USB powerpack 2600mAh Sanyo.jpg
17 KB, 960x520
>>948583

i'm guessing the thing will work fine down to 5V, in which case you could use any number of LiPo power packs which can do 5V in to charge, and 5V out to a USB jack.
>>
>>948600

silly question. you have a bunch of wood, so build a shelving unit like this.
>>
File: wall.jpg (9 KB, 572x540) Image search: [Google]
wall.jpg
9 KB, 572x540
what glue to use to stick paper to spackling paste?

i broke my wall so i used spackling paste to fill in and even out the drywall. now i want to paste some brown paper bag on it but i dont know what glue to use. i was thinking multi-purpose spray adhesive. yay or nay?

pic related
>>
>>948600
one of the most common things I've seen is people piling things (books, laundry, whatever) on chairs, loveseats, etc. Put that shit away. It doesn't take 10 minutes to fold a load of laundry. Get 2 people and cut the time in half. I've found that if I fold and put my laundry away as soon as I take it from the dryer, I'm good. If it gets piled somewhere, it'll stay there and more things will accumulate on it.

Another thing: everything needs to have "a place." Keep a filing cabinet full of folders for any bills you usually just leave lying around.

Little things like that can lead to more organization.
>>
How expensive would be making your bicycle electric powered?
>>
>>942187
i bought them off ebay think i paid 12 bucks or so for 50 or 100, i don't remember how many but it was way more than i needed, only problem is that they are very brittle i broke a couple screwing them to the piece i was working on and wound up using epoxy to stick them on
>>
>>934539

too bad it didnt catch on

the reverse polarity thing is DUMB
>>
File: trimmer.jpg (97 KB, 411x533) Image search: [Google]
trimmer.jpg
97 KB, 411x533
hello there,
I'm quite stumped looking for a precise trimmer pot around the lower ohm range (~5-20).

Thing is it has to withstand around 500mA @ 1.25V (~600mW) so I've been looking for >0.75W ones - found one from vishay but now the datasheet got me confused (see pic related). Specifically their mentioning of "maximum working voltage" and "maximum wiper current". Do I have to meet both of them or can i exceed one if i back-off on the other one and vice versa? I'm thinking my 600mW are lower than the rated 750mW so I should be fine but wanted to check with you guys just to be safe. Thanks in advance.
>>
File: Am I retarded.png (8 KB, 884x515) Image search: [Google]
Am I retarded.png
8 KB, 884x515
Pic related for metalworking

Is this a thing, or am I retarded? Black being a spring steel and red being made of the same shit as anvils.
So the idea would be that you hit the top of it with your hammer and the two red pieces smash the work piece in the middle. You could use it to make a near perfect 90 degree strike on the piece regardless of how you hit the top.

If it is, does it have a name?
>>
I have an early 90s single wide mobile home with original windows. Is the cost of replacing all the windows worth the energy savings I might see? Will I notice a difference in my monthly bill by just replacing the windows?

Currently I have the single pane windows (1 panel on the exterior and 1 on the interior). I was thinking of upgrading to the double hung variety at around $100 each. It would cost me around $1500 to do the whole thing (if I do it all myself over the summer) Thoughts?
>>
The leather seats in my car are really stiff, so I want to find a way to make them softer. Will saddle soap work, or should I use something else?
>>
>>949163
I have no idea but
Are your walls atleast 2x4s and insulated? Is your siding a leaky son uva bitch? Are the windows themselves leaky sons uva bitch?. Would an investment of a caulk gun be a better temporary investment ? Also depends on your climate too. You might be searching for cents on savings when the possibility of the problem could be something else besides the windows. How hard are your winters and summers? But Im looking at it like hot ass summers and cold ass winters cause great plains.
>>
>>949171
I *think* my walls are 2x4s and there is definitely insulation in them. A couple windows leak, but I've caulked them up as a temporary fix. I have the metal siding and it seems to be in decent shape. And lastly, yes harsh summers and winters. It gets down to 0 in the winter and near 100 in the summer. YUCK!
>>
Whats the best way to pump up rain water into an elevated tank without having an electric pump? Something that does the job 'for free'. Its just to water my garden.
>>
>>934023
How much do you all pay for sheets of steel? What thickness, length, and width?
>>
>>949202
Look into hand powered bilge pumps
>>
>>948920
try searching spring fuller tool
>>
>>949207
im looking for something that can get the water from the downspout barrel up in an elevated tank on the other side of the garden, it doesent need to get the job done fast. it can be slow as fuck
>>
>>949227
yeah, hand powered bilge pump is exactly what you need. buzzwords are "backup bilge pump" or "black water pump"
>>
>>949227
http://www. instructables.com/id/Worlds-greenest-water-pump/
>>
>>949227
>>949232

http://high-lifter. com/about_hl/notram.htm
>>
>>949227
wind powered rope pump is the way to go
>>
>>949298
a hydraulic ram pump doesn't even need a wind mill, it basically works on the weight of the water in the line being pumped uphill .

here is a link to another

http://www. motherearthnews.com/diy/hydraulic-ram-pump-zmaz79mjzraw.aspx
>>
>>949313
Most people dont have streams going downhill on their property. Anon just wanted to pump water up from a barrel into another barrel thats higher.
>>
>>949316
i think it could work with the weight of the water between 2 barrels, one under the downspout and then maybe run a pipe from the bottom of the downspout barrel, pump in the middle and a pipe to the up to the top of the higher barrel
>>
>>949321
the on instructibles write up says he pumped water from a pond not a stream
>>
>>949163
Honestly, you'd be better off insulating the side skirts and maybe the undercarriage than the windows, if it isn't already. Has the trailer been moved a lot that you know of?

Also, just using one of those diy hair dryer window sealer kits works pretty well, it's what's I did for my trailer, along with insulating the side skirts. The only window I left openable was to my front porch, so I could tell Jehovah's Witnessess to fuck off without opening the door.
>>
File: tmp_24807-10-163388412.jpg (33 KB, 800x759) Image search: [Google]
tmp_24807-10-163388412.jpg
33 KB, 800x759
What is the most common cause of failure of a vitroceramic electric stove? I know a friend who has one and only one of the 4 stoves work, I wonder if it's an easy fix like changing SSRs or if it's fucked, like the resistances being damaged.
>>
>>937559
Probably a file is your best bet.
>>
>>949298
now that I think of it, rope pump wouldnt be the best idea, since they are usualy operated fast and everything would just leak down at low windspeeds, you would have need a contraption that would wind up a weight and once it was on top it latch off to start up the pump at full speed for short amount of thime (until the weight falls down) and then started all over again. but that would require some gears and thinking
>>
>>938871

the only time ive had that kind of sound on a system is when soldering and having a bit break off inside the pipe. providing the sound is from something clanging in the pipe and not a banging for the heater its self overheating then it should be fine to ignore.
>>
>>949493
Usually having a can of condensed milk exploding a pan into the ceiling, and then landing on the surface of the stove isn't good for it.
>>
>>949384
any diy directions for insulating the side skirt? A few years ago I got some 1/2 inch (I think) foam board and put under there on the inside of the skirting, but it didn't really do any good. Maybe I need something a little more formidable. Also, I'd need to be able to open the windows. Some days it gets hot enough inside that I have to open the windows or (use more energy) and turn on the AC
>>
File: 20160220_124243.jpg (94 KB, 1280x720) Image search: [Google]
20160220_124243.jpg
94 KB, 1280x720
>>934023
Replacing the subframe on my bike trying to take a shortcut and remove the least stuff possible. Long story short, gas tank tipped over by accident and stripped an electrical plug that went into it.

Has anyone ever dealt with putting these wires back into a plug? Can I just whiskey dick it back inside? Any tips?
>>
>>949526
Uhhhm, what?
>>
File: sanik.png (136 KB, 462x579) Image search: [Google]
sanik.png
136 KB, 462x579
>>935078
>these fucking weird screws or normal screws of uneasonable size or located in places you need some weird ass support to spin them so retards don't fry themselves
>every fucking time
Why we can't have nice, unsafe, metal things like in the 50s?
>>
>>936052
Freezing doesn't kill bacteria, it just freezes it. I freeze my yogurt starter cultures and they are happy and lively after unfreezing.
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TAswNJyZjvM

is this bullshit or legit?
>>
>>939614
fellow akfag here
>>949205
How much was the steel going to cost you?
>>
>>950100
>stronger than traditional
seems dubious
if you are a plasterer by trade and hate brick/blockwork then i guess its ideal, but i know which one i think is harder to get a good finish with.

i know they build tunnels by slotting together pcc sections then shotcreteing fibreglass cement paste shit everywhere and if you touch it it rips your skin to shreds so not exactly the same.
>>
Why do all tiling instructables start laying down the tiles from the fucking middle of the wall? Doesent it make sense to start at the bottom of a corner and work your way in to the instede corner?
>>
>>950801
if you start in the corner you can have a thin sliver at one side and a huge chunk at the other.
it draws the eye and looks clumsy
if you start slap bankg in the middle and either center the tile or a gap in the middle of the wall then you end up with the same amount of tile fraction at either edge and it looks nice.
>>
>>950824
Oooh i see, so that way you are left with two pieces that are are guaranteed to be more than half a tile wide.
>>
>>934023
>I can connect any old 12V supply to this, as long as I connect the negative side to -12, and the positive side to V, correct?
Incorrect. You would need a 24v power supply, then connect -12v to ground, and 12v to +24. You may need a center tapped power supply for neutral, in which case you'll have to find one.
>>
File: 20160221_092113.jpg (787 KB, 2273x1785) Image search: [Google]
20160221_092113.jpg
787 KB, 2273x1785
sup /diy/ how can I alter this baby gate to keep my large dog from being able to jump over it while still leaving room for my cat to be able to jump over?

the cat would only need a small area where he could get over it (think maybe twice the distance between the posts on the gate now)

Obvs I'd have to do something at the top that would keep the dog from having room to jump over. I'd make it so that the cat could go under the gate but I have another small dog who would be able to go under (2nd dog is about the size of the cat)
>>
I'm going to try a build a clock but I need a PCB. Only thing I've never used them before and was wondering how to go about this. I got a schematic so I could order it premade but how do I go about at home?
>>
>>948583
Those things where fuckin rad
Thread replies: 255
Thread images: 82

banner
banner
[Boards: 3 / a / aco / adv / an / asp / b / biz / c / cgl / ck / cm / co / d / diy / e / fa / fit / g / gd / gif / h / hc / his / hm / hr / i / ic / int / jp / k / lgbt / lit / m / mlp / mu / n / news / o / out / p / po / pol / qa / r / r9k / s / s4s / sci / soc / sp / t / tg / toy / trash / trv / tv / u / v / vg / vp / vr / w / wg / wsg / wsr / x / y] [Home]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.
If a post contains personal/copyrighted/illegal content you can contact me at [email protected] with that post and thread number and it will be removed as soon as possible.
DMCA Content Takedown via dmca.com
All images are hosted on imgur.com, send takedown notices to them.
This is a 4chan archive - all of the content originated from them. If you need IP information for a Poster - you need to contact them. This website shows only archived content.