seriously. just go to the store and try them on.
Who's stoked for Psicobloc?
Hope it's more like it was the first year, not the speed climbing competition it was last year
>>711635
what was the previous format? i'd have a hard time getting excited about watching people speedclimb up plastic.
this is the climbing contest i'd be most interested in watching:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=np_VJrAkZt8
you think climbing's going to get added to the olympic slate? i think probably, but i'd love to see it focused more on being technically challenging, than jut who can dyno the fastest.
pic unrelated. just adding climbing content
>>711635
Low psyche tbh... I dont like route comps at the best if times, but seeing a group of pros basically do intervals at high speed, its basically training.
I did enjoy watching the nice normie lady try to interview the permabaked D.Woods/D.Graham combo...
>>711727
Hopefully no olympics. Esp as the IFSC tried to get a climbing triathlon where they had to do boulder, lead and speed, so no specialists could win. And who the fuck wants to watch people mash out the same Fr6c on a toprope all day.
>>711591
So we dont get to see the hilarious newb shoe requests?
Pic related. the level of newb is so high, its almost cute.
>>711591
I am fairly new to climbing and was wondering if you guys could recommend a shoe that is one step up from my current converse all-stars?
they have done me fine until now but I am having difficulty pushing past 8a+.
my friends say I need something more aggressive. would dr martens be better?
>>712069
do shoes really matter that much?
>aggressive shoes
what even
Anyone have personal experience with Central Rock Gyms?
There's a bunch in the Boston MA area I believe.
I'm kinda interested in the CT one.
>>712069
vibram five fingers look pretty sick, braj. i bet your toes could hella grip the rock in those. like a monkey n shit
to save this post from being a total waste, here's a pic of my dream climb
>>712080
Saw a guy wearing those at the wall the other day.... He could do nothing.
Was Psicobloc wank this year as usual? I was blazed and listening to DnB trying to watch it lasted 5 minutes, it was confusing and I dont know what happened....
Thoughts on shiver bivies?
How genuinely important are shoes? I bought the shittiest possible £20 shoes a while back to go climbing with my uni, and I'm now tring 6b+ indoors (I know) and wondering if it's worth getting a semi decent pair. Will having better shoes help me develop my technique, or am I just going to be polishing the same holds with more expensive rubber?
>>713263
If you're an okay climber, you will climb better in all shoes than a shit climber. Better shoes do let you get away with being less precise on smaller holds and let you feel the holds better. I wear La sportivas, a lot of their better shoes have their "P3" technology, which means that their most aggressive downturns work on slabs... thats pretty good.
The main reason I shell out for better shoes is the comfort... I wore Red Chilli Coronas for a few years, and the comfy difference between habaneros, coronas, then LaSpo Muiria VS then futuras was just incrementally more comfort each time... If youre climbing 5 times a week, I think it works out at like 30p per session for vastly comfier shoes which are better anyway...
>>713184
Was extra shit this year. Weather forced them to shut it down early and caused a ton of downtime. Terrible.
>>713328
kek
>>713263
eh depends on the level I guess, before you fork out can't you hire a pair from a gym and take them for a test drive? I climbed a pair of evolves to death(taped the noses when they wore through, taped the heal when it tore) then admitted defeat and forked out for dragons which hurt like fuck to wear but feel like sex on the rock,
if I use my outer knee to brace against a foothold on a route, does it still count?
>>713575
any body part is fair game
anyone else having fires threaten your plans? i'm supposed to go on a multiday backcountry climbing trip in kings canyon next month, but the rough fire is making a mess of things
>>713575
are you at a gym and is that foothold part of the route you're on? If its not then its not legal i guess, but who the fuck cares its just plastic
>>713633
>le ebic gym climbing is dumb maymay
>not appreciating it as an independent activity
fuck off
>>713732
back to reddit faggot
>>713880
This just goes to show how insecure the typical gym climber is, and is the exact reason why gym rats will continue to be the laughing stock of everyone else.
>>713732
would literally have to be an insecure fucking gumby to think that I was actually talking shit about gyms. Gyms are gyms, they speak for themselves.
And its not an "independent activity" when I spend all of my climbing days outside on decent granite, I have no choice but to see it as a poor substitute for the real thing.
And if you can't read an opinion like that without getting all huffy puffy then literally go to reddit. That place is filled with shitters that think all the mediocre shit they see on youtube is the center of the climbing universe and they would probably castrate themselves just to smell the unwiped ass of a popular climber.
>>713884
watch out! hardman comin' through!
Where do you guys from the UK buy all your climbing gear, or do you just buy it online?
I'm looking into buying a harness and some rope and carabinas......and a belay device......basically everything but shoes
>>714987
not a uk bro, but for anything you wear i suggest trying really hard to find them someplace you can try them on, even if you have to drive for an hour to get there. everybody i know who has bought a harness online has regretted it. ropes and pro and stuff like that are fine online.
pic related-contents of a package i got at the beginning of summer. guess what worked and what didn't.
Sup, I need some advise. About a month ago my I dislocated my shoulder training, and the medic recommended 3 months of rest for my arm, specially from sudden movements.
Can anyone tell me if those 3 months could affect my perfomance, and if there is any way to reduce that without the need to train on rock.
>>715083
last year i had to stop for a few months for impingement. i had a bit of a drop-off when i first went back (about 1 whole number, yds), but was right back where i left off within a month.
when you go back just return slowly, avoid weird stress on your shoulder for a while, and if it hurts stop.
>>715099
>when you go back just return slowly
^ This.
>>714987
Fuck Go Outdoors. Cotswolds are over priced, try going to smaller or local shops, most will pricematch everything anywhere....
Indoor walls will usually see you right...
like >>715061 said, only really wory about trying on the harness, and get something comfy af.
If youre only climbing inside, get the cheapest shittest 35m rope you can and just use it inside, then get longer ropes when you go outside... Belay device? The DMM Pivot is really really good, or jsut get a shit basic one for indoors, and buy another one when you go out...
>>715220
>or jsut get a shit basic one for indoors, and buy another one when you go out
my attitude on this is if you think you're ever going to lead multipitch just go ahead and buy a better belay device now for $30 instead of buying a shit one now for $20 and then later having to drop $30 snyways upgrading. dmm pivot, bd atc guide, petzl reverso are all slighly different versions of the same thing. i have an atc guide, but i'm not a real big fan of how it twists to the side when bringing up a second, so next one will probably be a petzl reverso (even though they're ugly as fuck, imo)
>>714987
I tend to buy from needle sports or V12 outdoor because they sell things I actually want at, quite often, good prices (and I get 20% off at V12).
GoOutdoors has some stuff, but IMO they don't really cater to climbers. They have a lot of stuff that British climbers won't ever really buy.
Cotswold is generally better, but more expensive because they give out 10-20% to a lot of different organisations. The DMM starter pack they sell is good though. You get harness, belay device, crab and chalk bag for ~£60. You can probably find a cheaper set some where else, but DMM harnesses are good.
Other shops:
Banana Fingers
Outside
Bergfreunde (based in Germany, but cheap and free delivery over ~£60)
Rock+Run
Make sure your rope is actually long enough for the wall e.g. Kendal wall you need at least 50m
Hitting up Bishop for Labor Day weekend. Am I gonna bake?
>>715952
accuweather's saying mid-80s right now, so if that doesn't change it'll probably be real nice in the morning and evening. still to warm for elite bouldering, but perfect for a normie like me and ('im guessing) you.
am I allowed to talk about aid climbing here
>>716757
What's on your mind?
>>716757
sure. i plan on getting into it at some point myself, when i have the time to be on the wall multiple days and money to put together a clean rack. can't live 4 hours from here and never get up The Big Stone
Anyone ITT climb ice? Thoughts?
>>716183
Yeah no elite stuff. Still hoping on sending a couple of my projects while I'm there. Sounds like it's gonna be mainly early morning and night bouldering for me.
>>717064
yup, that's yosemite. everything in that pic that isn't tree or sky is granite.
how important are shoulders when climbing? hurt my shoulder from lifting, hurts when i do pullups/chinups a certain way, but i want to try bouldering or climbing
how do you find people to do non-bouldering with. like someone to belay with.
>tfw no friends
>>717216
you ask someone to belay you.
>>717216
Take a course on how to belay
See if your wall has some kind of adult climbing group that meets up during the week
If your wall has autobelays, try to spot another lonely fuck solely using them and ask if they want a belay
How long have you all been climbing?
>>717216
pretty important. especially in bouldering where you have to do a lot of weird, powerful movements. really on anything overhanging a lot of your weight's going to be going through your shoulders. but if you don't overdo it it might help you to learn to push with your legs, which is where you want most of your upward movement to be coming from anyways.
as for climbing friends, go to your local crag or gym and start talking to people. 100% guarantee you meet someone friendly the first day.
>>717484
3 1/2 years
Any other watchfags who boulder?
How do y'all deal with not wearing a watch while bouldering?
Annoy's me so much. Always looking at my naked wrist
>>717050
i did it briefly in a mountaineering course. fun as hell, a lot easier than rock. tick tick up the ice face
>>717050
my wife wants to go to ouray at some point. looks like a fun, low stress place to try it out. just have to be okay sharing your space with other people. can't be more crowded than a gym.
>>717911
wow. your life must be a fuckin nightmare.
>>717050
I've done a bit of scottish winter...
Natural pro and variable conditions? It's a right laugh... I find Ice pumpy as fuck. mainly because the axes make everything feel 10°steeper than it is... Its good though...
From what I've seen the american scene has a lot more pure ice, and a lot of punters top roping? Ammirite? Lol.
>>718154
>scottish winter
fuck that. you're extra loco.
climbing something as transient and friable as ice makes me irky: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TQByrChFhZQ
plus i hate being cold
>>718239
Lol, as if theres ever been ice like that in scotland.
Here is a blog of something far more hardcore than my experience of scottish winter, which is more along the lines of ledgeshuffling on ice, with very rare intersactions of steep ice....
http://gregboswell.co.uk/index.php/2015/03/01/one-of-your-five-a-day/
>>718325
i know, but at least he *thought* he had a solid chunk of ice to climb. the loonies up your way see a heavy frosty and think "yeah, that'll hold me"
>>718898
forgot link: http://www.rockandice.com/video-gallery/weekend-whipper-terrifying-mixed-climbing-fall
>>718898
Tbh though, the fall was well clean and down an icey gully, so its a lot of airmiles, but like, a HS on grit will fuck you up just as much if you come off (if not more!)
I did this route with a friend this year (vid not of us)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pYr1DVtWujM
he fell off, leaving an axe high, i went up, fell off, did it second try, with 3 axes on the crux... theres a permanent anchor at the end of the pitch, with 4G signal... sat down and had lunch watching TV on the phone, smoked one and walked out...
Based. Day. Out.
i went to a bouldering gym yesterday
how long do you climb for? I was tired after half an hour
at the gym, the holds have tape for routes. and some of the holds have two pieces of tape to indicate two limbs can touch it.
does this mean if i put two feet on a hold that is meant for one, that i am doing it wrong?
I tried 5 of the Beginner routes at the gym. the first two were fine. but for the rest i had problems at the top. felt like it was very hard to position my feet so i'd easily be able to push myself up over the ledge. is this normal? i could touch the top, but didn't know how to position myself to be able to climb over
i remember getting instructed on climbing at a camp when i was a kid. i remember being told to keep three limbs always on the wall, and only move one arm or foot at a time. does this apply to bouldering too? is it just a general rule, but there are often cases where you can't follow it?
>>719493
bouldering kicks the shit out of you, especially if you're new to climbing. but you'll find you can climb a lot longer as you get stronger and (more importantly) your technique improves, decreasing fatigue.
>two pieces of tape to indicate two limbs can touch it
this isn't something i've seen before. at my gym the start holds are marked with two pieces of tape, and holds that are used for two routes have two pieces of tape (of two different colors). but any hold on a route is open for any type of use, including matching (hands or feet). i suggest you talk to some of the setters at your gym and see what they have in mind.
my 3 body mechanic suggestions for new climbers are:
>straight elbows
>hips close to the wall
>princess toes
they're not strict rules, but just things to keep in mind to keep your weight distributed efficiently
>>712295
vibram five finger sole material isn't right for rock climbing.
>>719507
more importantly they don't spread your weight so you'd be trying to stand completely on just the outside edge of your big toe, there's no edge on the sole, and even if there was all that force would roll your toe anyways
how would i bring a qt3.14 grill with me rock climbing/bouldering at a gym. i'm a total noob at it, so i can't really teach her anything.
worried someone who knows what he's doing will teach her the ropes instead and i'll get passed over for a better guy ;_;
>>719556
If you showed up at my gym I'd teach you to belay and climb with you guys, and then proceed to climb several grades harder than you and steal your grill.
But for real, just invite her to go do it. It's a kind of creative date and she'll think you're a cool guy for taking her to do it.
>>719556
protip: if you bring her there on a date, and she decides to bone some other dude just cause he can pull plastic harder than you, you're better off without her.
but for realsies, i wouldn't worry about that happening. if anything being useless together might help you, since you can't be a cocky asshole about how much more than her you know, and you won't get annoyed at her when she sucks at climbing, too. i've seen that happen more than once.
Crushing V3s but can't seem to get a grip on V4s, any idea how I can work on my footwork?
>>719601
Yeah.
>>719601
spend a week on v5s. you'll be real happy when you drop back to 4s.
and work on your core strength. keeping that tighter will help your feet stick immeasurably.
>>712080
all those chickenheads...
>>719640
shit yeah. 2500' of 5.7-5.9 with just one 5.11 roof move that you can pull on gear to bypass.
and you have to either take a seaplane or hike for a week through grizzly country to get there.
>>719497
noob question but for outdoor slab climbing do you push your hips away from the wall? that's what i've been told i think
>>719728
true. for slab you want your legs to be nearer vertical and keep your heels down. that will push your weight into the rock instead of down its face, and maximize your contact area.
>>719607
>he can't climb V4s
>recommends him to climb V5s instead
U wot m8
>>719769
>not working things specifically too hard
it's like you don't even want to improve
![2776783710_38e624e88a_o_d[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/eduYqUG.jpg "2776783710_38e624e88a_o_d[1].jpg")
Could you make it up the face of Stone Mountain?
It is smooth granite with almost no features to grab on to.
>>719772
>no features
>mfw
if it were open to climbing, yeah i could make it up that.
>>712080
I tried mine out for funsies, and they're amazing for smearing, but the complete lack of an edge or any support makes them basically worthless. Might be ok on slabby sandstone? Maybe?
>>719497
At our gym we write an S for start on a single piece of tape, any subsequent tapes are to indicate the number of limbs that must start on that hold. So two blue and a red would mean for the blue route you need to start with two limbs on that hold, such as 2 hands, whereas on the red route only 1 hand would need to start there, but you can always start with more than the requisite limbs if they aren't needed to fulfill other start positions.
>>719497
thanks
what would i do if i can't progress? like say i get stuck on v1 routes
i have no friends to do real climbing with. i just go to the gym by myself. how can i get some friends who can invite me outdoors? ;_;
>>719818
you'll progress past v1. you'll hit a wall eventually though. that's part of getting better. start making friends at your gym.
>>719819
>start making friends at your gym.
how do i make friends at the gym? i don't even have friends in real life
>>719824
talk to them. you have an automatic conversation piece with anyone who's working or climbed the same route as you.
>hey, i'm having a hard time with x move. what did you do/try/think?
almost every climber i know is super friendly. if you hit one of the few assholes just brush it off and talk to someone else.
>>719824
The climbing gym is one of the easiest places to start up a conversation. Either try a problem and ask someone for some tips if you're having trouble, or go up to a problem someone else is working on, ask if they'd mind if you tried it, and then work on it with them.
>>712069
Why would you wear docs while climbing?
You want boots get boots, you wanna climb get climbing shoes, 5.10 rogue is a good starter for beginner to intermediate
>>719859
...
Any decent competitors for the beast maker finger boards?
Anyone use moon?
today was my second day at the bouldering gym
seems like i get to the topmost hold and don't know where to go sometimes. i don't know what to do to be able to get on top of the wall. feels like i'd have to move both my feet up to a higher hold, but it's hard
>tfw saw a dad with his 7-year old kids doing harder routes than me
>>721028
sorry, no help here. i've looked at fingerboards a few times, but never pulled the trigger. i keep meaning to find a place in my house to set up a towel to do pull-ups on (pic related). looks like it'd blast grip strength, in addition to all the regular pull-up benefits.
>>721053
>second day
nice. keep it up. and when you get stuck on something and you see someone else working the same problem you should ask themt what they'd do. you'll probably get better advice from someone who can see the situation than from us trying to diagnose it over our keyboards
>7-year old kids
>dat strength-to-weight ratio
and yeah, they're fucked on the wingspan aspect, but think how giant crimps are to their little fingers
>>721059
thanks, i'll try to ask someone how i can do the problem better
>>721028
Nobody knows about other finger boards because nobody has ever used one. The only things anyone has ever used for finger exercises are as follows:
Beastmaker 1000
Beastmaker 2000
Campusboard (Big side)
Campus Board little side
Occasionally, when not targetting fingers, people have been known to do pullups on:
Rock rings
Rings
Pullup bar
balls
People have climbed up to Fr9b+ like this.
>>721084
Yeah I know. I have seen the new moon finger boards in a climbing gym near me and they look pretty decent which is why I ask.
I'll have a chat with the route setter or owner to see what they think of it.
>>721113
>inb4 "I dont really use it, do you have a beastmaker?"
Has anyone here ever done Glass Ocean in Big Cottonwood Canyon, Salt Lake City?
Spent an evening practicing pivoting. Is the point of rotation meant to be in the center below the toes, directly on the big toe, or do you 'roll' across your toes to change sides?
I spent most of the time pivoting on the point below my third toe, and now threes a decent amount of rubber missing below the toes on my shoes in a kind of 'U' shape. Is this normal?
>>723310
i'm unclear exactly what you were practicing. can you find a video clip that shows it?
>>723310
Q1. Yes.
Q2. Yes ish.
If you mean twisting your hips to estend the read of the arm closest to the wall, then think more about which foot placement best suits that move... it differs with each move, considering how youre moving into, and out of the position.
i've done several routes where the key to doing the crux is changing the angle of one foot!
>>723342
From what I got, he was practicing changing the direction of his feet by pivoting on a foothold. Never thought to practice this at all.
I usually pivot closer to my big toe. Most of the time it just depends on where my foot is standing.
>>724021
>Never thought to practice this at all
that's why i was perplexed. i coudln't think of a motion that could be described as "pivot" that's complicated enough to require practicing
How do you guys feel about approach shoes? Picked up a pair of 5.10 guide tennies yesterday, and broke em' in on a hike. Super comfy imo. Can't wait to take them to the crag tomorrow.
>>724196
my cousin has a pair. he loves them. he's a guide and wears them as his every day shoe, backpacking, and climbing up to about 5.7 . i'm jelly as a donut
>>724021
Yes, this is what I meant. I was practicing my footwork/movement technique in general, and I've noticed that I tend to move about on the hold as I change direction (though not due to there not being enough space between my toe and the wall) and end up in a less-than-perfect foot placement, so I was wondering if there was a different way I should be doing it.
Can you change from edging with one side of the shoe to edging with the other just by pivoting without the actual position of the foot on the hold changing (i.e. standing on the little toe edge, then pivoting so that the big toe edge is used, and vice versa), or does the point of contact remain the same (big toe/below big toe etc.) and the direction of the shoe just change?
>>724196
Got myself a pair, went to the local fair when it was in town and won $100 climbing the wall. Paid for themselves.
I'm pretty sure I damaged my A2 and maybe A1 pulley in my ring and middle finger for my left hand from doing a pocket climb a few weeks back. It doesn't hurt when I'm not climbing unless I squeeze as hard as I can.
They don't hurt when climbing that much either, unless I'm crimping on overhangs, which I've been trying to avoid until it heals more. I'm currently projecting this V6 which I'm extremely close to getting and plan to take a break after I send to let my fingers heal.
How long do they typically take to heal? I've read anywhere from 2-10 weeks. I've been massaging/using a heating pad everyday and it's helping. I've been taping them when i climb of course too.
And yeah, I know I should see a doctor and I've been thinking about it a lot lately just to see how bad it really is.
>>724428
I damaged my A2 pulley two years ago and it took forever to feel good. At least 10 weeks for me. Definitely take it easy while climbing.
>>724432
Did you cut out climbing during that healing time or did you just do easy things with big jugs? I'd rather not cut it out completely until it's healed but if I have to then I guess I don't have any other choice
>>724428
So if it doesnt hurt whilst climbing its probably a pull rather than a tear, taking time off wont help... If i were you I'd do a few weeks of stamina work, learn a couple of circuits/routes and work out the beta so that you dont make the finger worse, then try to throw double laps etc on them.... if youre trageted and concentrate you should be able to double up likeFr7a ish after a few weeks which will be amazing for your stamina/overall clibing, and the hardest move will be like, V3/4...
>>724428
My advice: rest it until it no longer hurts, and then rest it some more. I'd want to be absolutely sure it's all healed up. It's better than injuring it more and not being able to climb for even longer.
>>724428
>>724592
But do remember that doing absolutely nothing will weaken your hands overall, so only 100% rest if your fingers are so so fucked that doing literally anything will damage them further!
If its just pulled and not physically torn at all, you can still do lots of easy moves, but make them easy and do loads to keep the strength there in all your other fingers, whilst not worsening the other!
Shaman's are in the mail now. Only tried them on in store once, saw them online for only a hundred today, impulse bought.
I'm not going to be disappointed on the wall or in the boulder fields will I?
>>724643
>bouldering
no
>on the wall
depends on how tall the wall is. single sport pitch? no. long trad? probably. (not because of their ability, but your feet will be sad).
i've been working on stretching out a new pair of mythos. 43 is the right length, but my fat german-irish feet are pretty snug in that italian leather
>>724437
i took two weeks off, got back on and felt pain. Stopped for another two weeks, got back on again and took it very slow and very easy
>went bouldering yesterday
>today wrists and fingers hurt
>at risk for osteoarthritis
i-is climbing not for me? or does everyone's wrists and fingers get sore the day after?
>>725149
Initially yes, youre using them in ways you dont normally. If you keep the load you do the same, the pain should eventually subside. You use the wrists more than youd think just keeping the finger tendons in place... should be okay.
Couple weeks ago someone in my gym forgot to hook in one of the TWO auto belays my place has, and broke his leg after he fell 20+ feet.
He was pretty peeved no one told him he wasn't hooked in and I'm worried my gym will need to go through a lawsuit, who the fuck gets mad at other people for their own mistakes.
>>725703
what does your liability waiver say?
I work at a Rec Center setting routes and teaching classes, I'm pretty sure if that happens they'd be dealing with the city seeing as they run the rec. centers.
If something happened there I'd feel bad but not if they tried to sue, tell them it's their fault for not following directions.
At the day it's all up to the climber and belayer unless you get clocked with a rock, on wait.. where's your fucking helmet?
>>725703
That really sucks for him, but it was definitely all his fault. If he tries to sue the place he can go fuck himself.
>>725703
My wall literally had "Going to court and repeating how it was all covered in the waiver" timetabled in and scheduled for senior instructors... Nobody ever won, and if they did, its covered by insurance
Can someone recommend a body weight routine for climbing? I asked /fit/ and google showed nothing that seemed legit. I don't have access to a gym or weights, just some monkey bars.
>>725960
One of the best body weight routines to help your climbing is climbing.
>>725986
I realize this but I don't access to climbing gym or gear/friends/money for out door. I want a routine to condition myself so when I go back in October I can hopefully start where I left off.
No. Not a full one.
Pullups, pushups, lockoffs and core will help, just do shit that feels hard, repeat until its easy.
Focus on doing pullups and pushups both explosively and slowly, preferably work up to 1 arming (may require weights for the pullups)
How good are you? In reality if youre fairly new to the sport theres no point doing strength training. If possible lose some weight though.
>>725960
http://www.startbodyweight.com/2014/01/basic-routine-infographic-poster.html
>>725960
Other than climbing more, check out the bodyweight thread on /asp/
Anyone else get a little sad when you see people who have been climbing for years who are still climbing shit grades? Like, 10 years into climbing career, climbing VS/HVS (5.8-10a)....
I just think like, man, if youre peaking now, youre literally going to be doing nothing by the time you're 40....
>inb4 snob, its all about having fun
I'm not saying its not fun at low grades, im saying theres just more fun to be had if you can do more routes!
>>727364
Try asking them why they climb the grades and routes they do. Probably has nothing to do with peaking. Not everyone is a size queen.
>>727364
>caring how hard other people pull
it IS all about having fun. and some people have fun sticking with things they can cruise.
and just because someone tops out at 5.8 early doesn't mean that by 40 (which isn't that old) they'll have experienced a precipitous dropoff. they'll probably stay steady there for a long time. true there's a narrow window for peak *potential*, but just because you voluntarily plateau below that doesn't mean you'll drop off suddenly with age.
Alright, so I live in ontario around the GTA area and I was looking into wanting someone to coach me to become a better climber
stats:
>climbing for ~1 year
>indoor v4s which I think are about outdoor v3
>5.10 a/b indoors
>5.9~ outdoors
I want to in general increase my skills in general climbing and have someone to spot my weaknesses and help me focus on how to overcome them.
>>727557
>5.10 a/b indoors
Just keep climbing
Labor Day Weekend Bishop trip is almost here. What problems should I try?
>>727557
are those 5.9 and 5.10's on top rope or sport?
you're right about bouldering 4v's in the gym being v3's outdoors, and you might not even be able to do some v3's outdoors till. that's where I'm at anyways, I have always thought bouldering outdoors was way harder.
>>727647
>bouldering trial membership ran out
>don't know if i want to continue doing this
>need to buy shoes and chalk if i want to continue (or pay $8 per day to rent it)
how much do shoes and chalk cost? any good brands?
>>727872
>how much do shoes and chalk cost?
rei.com
amazon.com
craigslist.org
google.com
>>727872
>don't ask about shoes edition
what do you think of climbing as an olympic sport?
I hope it doesn't become one...
Right now climbing is something you most likely do without a club. You just go climb in a hall or outside and you learn by looking at others, everything at your pace. It's so comfortable.
But if it's an olympic sports there will be clubs and if you want to start climbing you'll most likely end up going to a weekly event where you do training and all that stuff. either you try hard then or you get annoyed and bored...
>>728416
Yeah pretty much this. Theres so many areas of the sport which wouldn't work competitively, so the people in those fields wouldn't enter!
Competition hard grit. Open up a new grit quarry and see who can onsight a new version of Parthion Shot. That would be worth watching....
Climbing is a sport where the "world records" are done all over the place all the time... Steck "deserved" a gold for annapurna, as did seb grieve for everything he did... Ondra earned it for his 9b+s... who gives a shit who can yard on made up plastic which may or may not suit them...
Hey I'm currently climbing mon-wed-fri, would it be too hard on my body to go the gym in the mornings?
Also any recommended gym routines? Otherwise I'll probably just got with SS
>>728611
No.
Try to spend the time working on antagonists, and training your body to try harder, so increasing deadlift without gaining muscle mass, just be relearning how to try.
It could reduce your injury risk. Make sure you put in some protein and sugars immediately after, and stay hydrated in your climbing sessions.
If I want to tie another knot to prevent my waterknot from slipping on webbing, what would you recommend?
>>728626
Awesome thanks, I'll try to come up with a routine that works antagonists then
>>728416
it won't affect how i climb, but the ioc oughtn't expect me to watch it. watching other people speed climb plastic is boring as shit.
>>728611
>ss
>bulkan while climban
compounds are great, and strength gainz are great, but 5x5 is less than ideal for climbing improvement
>>728734
if your water knot's correct it won't slip. but for piece of mind you can throw an overhand on the tails.
pic unrelated, except climbing porn since no one's posted any good pics in about 100 posts
Back from Bishop now. Was pretty hot like predicted, but still managed to send some projects. Anyone else get out and do cool stuff over the long weekend?
>>729687
>Central Pillar of Frenzy
>East Buttress of The Captain
>Snake Hike
Would recommend the East Buttress, A lot of exposure with some wild run outs on the easy stuff, and committing airy moves on some 5.9 pitches. For those looking to rap down on the ledges descent, use rap station D, its the safest to find in the dark. Pic stolen from MP, but this is one of the more run out sections of the climb.
>>715083
I tore and detached all of the tendons in my ankle last November and I can just about get back to climbing. Going later this evening. I dread to think how it's going to go...
>>729687
I was on a 4 day rally that passes through the alps down the Stelvio pass with my father, he was an avid climber before he became ill and I'm starting to climb regularly now. It hurt driving through Switzerland at times.
I'm going back next summer.
>>730164
Looks pretty blank...
ok /cg/, I want to get into climbing and more specifically outdoors mountain climbing like Alpinism. I was thinking of starting by going to a rock-wall and practicing climbing there and try to talk to some people about what I should do if I want to start climbing mtns.
I live in NJ btw
>climb all week indoors excited with all the new boulder problems
>go from doing crimpy problems that started to cause bad tension in my fingers to slopery problems that starts to wear my fingerpads down
>fingerpads are sore and open
>go order a couple of spicy burritos
>fingers feel nuclear
I guess its time to tape up
>>731432
Yes, go to the wall and offer to belay or just do anything that the good people are doing... Be their bitch and they will like you.
>>731551
> friend trying Rainbow Rocket for a few hours
> destroyed his fingertips getting really close
> get pizzas in font then back to the tent,
> smoke one
> baked friend needs pizza, but the oil is making him cry
Hey /asp/
I just heard yesterday from a friend that he worked on his foot placement by putting long quickdraws on his climbing shoes and tried to avoid touching the wall with the quickdraws while climbing. Do you think it coud improve foot placement or not?
>>711591
Death to all gym climbers
>>731610
Thats sort of silly because those quickdraws will hit if you do toehooks or heelhooks.
>>731610
I dont really get it, you mean the slings? thats a dreadful idea because it means you are training being slow not accurate! We can all be accurate if we're slow enough!
Try not looking at your feet while theyre moving... Look at the hold theye going to, look away, make the move.
>get some climbing shoes last December with real rubber
>they over stretch to the point that I can't place my toe on small holds without slipping
Is there anything I can do or am I forced to buy new ones?
reminder that the easiest way to get better is to lose weight by running or eating better
Any recommendations on crash pads?
Anyone to stay away from?
>>731845
Buy new shoes. Nothing you can do about expanded rubber, until we discover reversible plastics.
Where'd the best place to go to start outdoor bouldering for the first time? I'm in Michigan, so good outdoor climbing is usually a day's worth of driving. I've been climbing for just under a year in a gym. I've done some trad climbing and sport climbing, and I love ice climbing, but I spent the vast majority of my time bouldering. In a gym, I can climb V6s and V7s, so my technique is pretty solid for now, but I'm not used to real rock, so I need someone good to start that isn't roped climbing. Any suggestions?
>>732695
I've heard BD are crap.
>>731617
But I'm not good enough to climb outside yet :(
>>732997
Northeast CT is pretty shit for outdoor climbing, yet I've managed to find some gems in the rough.
Went to the local uni, talked to someone in the geology department, they pointed me to some state parks and undeveloped public land, some real fun "bouldering" to be had.
There's real fun to be had everywhere, you just have to get out there and explore.
>>733288
>not good enough to climb outside
>outside doesn't have 5.4
time to find a new excuse faggot
>>733460
What about those who live a ten hour drive away from good climbing. Or more? Are they supposed to give up their lives and move to a climbing area? Are they supposed to commute 20 hours roundtrip to climb? Unless I'm a pro and have time to climb fulltime, I'm going to a gym.
Is there a difference between using H taping vertically or horizontally? Pic shows what I mean by horizontal. I have used the vertical method and it's OK, as long as the tape stays taut.
>>733463
what does any of your whining have to do with whining about not being good enough?
also
>not being able to day trip to the greatest climbing destination in the world
sucks to be you, bruh
>>733749
I can't tell if you're trolling, of if you're just one of those egotistical climbers that make other climbers look bad.
>>733886
I try to go every other day. I mostly boulder, with a little bit of leading. There's no good bouldering near me outside, and without a gym, I would be climbing at all.
>>733460
This is what happens when the climbing community in your country puts trad climbing on a pedestal.
What the hell has happened to this thread?
>>733288
You must be shit if you cant climb outside. Climbing started outside. There is no "yet" the first climbers had never even dreamt of climbing inside when they started outside. Youre good enough. Get off the spectrum and go make some friends who go out. See: Shia.mov
>>733460 I think you were trying to say ^ that, fair cop.
>>733463 they have a better excuse than saying "I'm not good enough"
>>733651
Thats how I tape, or rip a length off, split it apart from the last cm, then wrap the 2 long tails round the joint i found also works.
Did you all have a good summer? Now its coming to a close? Mine was wank tbh due to low psyche for going outdoors... now warming up lapping 5.12a though so i guess not all is lost...
>>731617
Say that to my face, not online and see what happens.
I also play outside, but the gym is an every week thing.
>>734101
Ice climbing season approacheth.
>>711591
who /trad/ here?
I live sorta near the Gunks, decided to buy some gear cause it's a waste not to climb there.
Coming back after multiple fractures in left leg and dislocations in same leg.
Mostly bouldering may do some sport/trad but getting back into climbing shape for the next few months, I was in a cast for nearly 18 months.
Foot strength is my biggest fear, any advice on regaining my big toe lock off again.
>>736968
Was it a fall or car crash or something?
>>737188
Race bike accident. They cut the swing arm to get my leg out.
I lowsided, hit the gravel grabbed my boot twisted it into the tire and swingarm
>>737353
Jesus that sounds unpleasant.
>>737379
Its the Life of an adrenaline addict, if my life's not hanging by a thread my heart rate doesn't go up. I don't enjoy boring activities haha
Took my first shitty highball fall the other day. Some guy photographing the waterfall farther down the ravine thought he "saw me die" and came scrambling up screaming. Then 10 minutes later when I made another attempt he just looked at me like I was retarded.
>>737469
kek
>>734101
these threads are always shit. i just come here to laugh at the idiots that infest this place
>>734101
>Start summer climbing 6b+ in the gym
>Aim for reliably climbing 6c by the end
>Try hard
>No 6c
At least my footwork and shit is a lot better I guess.
>>737648
In the Gym? whats your weakness and how did you go about not training it so efficiently?
>>737648
Do some bouldering and eat more protein. Aim for really hard boulder problems and even if you don't send, just get really psyched up and push yourself. After you sharpen your technique a bit and put on more muscle, try 6c again. But if you're climbing at that level, you probably know all this already.
>broke my wrist doing judo
>no climbing for a month
Martial arts are a meme.
>>737964
Friend quit martial arts for climbing. He pointed out that while he was training he spent so long obsessing over risks in public that he never went out because he thought he'd get into fights.....
I live in rural england not assasins fucking creed
>>737683
I'm starting to think it's a mental thing more than anything else. Been doing the self coached climber drills etc. which have made my climbing lower grades noticeably more efficient.
>>737956
I can boulder about V2 reliably, couple of V3s. Think that's enough, or would it be worth focusing on the boulder like you suggested? (this is french 6c, not British or anything)
>>738043
Spend at least two days a week bouldering for as long as you can per day. (This is where extra protein helps). Aim high and climb until you can crush V4s and maybe a couple V5s. Your endurance is probably great, but if V3s are your limit, your technique could likely use some work.
I've seen people who climb 5.11 reliably, but utterly flop at V3s. And then there are people who one day I see boulder a bunch of V6s, and a few days later, lead a 5.13 with style. Bouldering might be the edge you need.
Anyone got secret beta on Bishop camping? I just got myself a flight down to LA and i'm going to hitchhike my way to Bishop, i just dont know how i'm getting water and food or a crashpad. Any warriors can give me some tips?
Anyone have wrist injury experience? While bouldering in the gym, I had my right hand on an overhanging pinch and then lost my feet. I kept my hands on, but there was a pop in my wrist, and now it hurts to squeeze holds like slopes and pinches. Jugs are mostly fine though. Pain is in the center of my wrist. Do you think I tore a ligament, or did I just crack my wrist in a bad way? Wouldn't a ligament tear hurt a fuck ton?
I'm going to rest and see a doctor of course, but I'm really worried it will affect my climbing long term.
>>739537
More likely a ligament tear, they tend to hurt less than fractures and are pretty common for climbers. Doctor, or physiotherapist, will help you work out what it is and then figure out a recovery plan. It will only affect you long term if you don't recover properly. Be prepared to not climb for a while, though. To cheer you up, here are some climbing shennanigans!
THIS IS SQUAMISH!!!
https://instagram.com/p/8B21cMifGk/
>>738785
Make friends with other climbers there and bum their crash pads. Most won't mind. Not sure about food, but you could probably fill a water bottle with Von's bathroom tap water.
Also, my buddy and I recently cleaned up a really nice campsite in the buttermilks. Before you get to the actual boulders, there's an outcrop of big rocks all alone to the left and a dirt road to get to them. Behind that is a super bomb campsite.
>>739546
That's weird, though, since tears are usually caused by falling and bending your wrist too far, not from just holding onto something. I had a very similar injury months ago in my other wrist that happened while I was sleeping somehow. I didn't have insurance at the time so I let it heal on it's own. It actually started to get better once I picked something and something popped in my wrist. Now that I do have insurance, I had a doctor look at my former wrist injury and she said it was just carpal inflammation or something. I'm hoping that's the same with this new injury because it feels the same way, but that popping noise really has me concerned it's something worse.
Either way, I'm wearing a wrist brace. The wrist joints are fucking weird, man.
well, i'm out for a few months. confirmed for calcific tendonitis. shoulda taken a pic of my x-ray, but it looked pretty much like this, plus a second deposit more laterally.
maybe just practice my princess toes on slab for a while...
>>733081
got a BD taco pad it's, ok organic is nice too bouldering partner has 2 feels good 2
How useful is flexibility? I'm absurdly inflexible atm (literally a gap of a foot when I try and touch my toes) but was thinking of picking up pilates/yoga/etc. in order to change that. It isn't really hindering my climbing rn (indoor V3/4, 6a/b); will it in the future?
>>740884
Flexabilty isn't required on a lot of climbs, but it will help on almost every climb. Yoga will help, along with just general stretching before climbing.
>>739807
What/where/how?
My beighbour has a pair of gymnastic rings and he says I can use them to train anytime. Google results seem to mostly be advertising-esque, what's the best exercises and schedule for gymnastic rings to get better at climbing?
>>740884
hip flexibility is a lot more important than being able to bend over at the waist. if you can drop into a full atg squat with your feet flat on the ground you'll generally be okay.
>>741674
calcium deposits on one of the tendons in my right shoulder. from years of heavy abuse pushing hospital beds, climbing and lifting. have had pain for a year and a half, finally got it looked at.
I've been having wrist issues after I'm done climbing super crimpy routes. does anyone else have this issue and how do you deal with it? would it help to stretch out on a hangboard afterwords?
>>741840
What is the issue exactly? Pain? Loss of movement?
I have problems in my wrists, too. I recently heard a pop in my wrist while climbing, followed by pain and weakness. I thought I tore something, but a doctor told me I just stretched some tendons and have tendinitis in my extensor tendons, which sounds counter-intuitive. I had pain in the back center in my wrist, and couldn't bend my wrist too far up or down. I also couldn't pinch a hold to save my life. It actually healed up after a week, miraculously. My other wrist was similar, but it took months to heal.
>>741840
>>741897
when you climb more all the tendons need to get stronger. the fingers you just do accidentally, but high stress through the wrists is rarer. to isolate this ill do pullups on the campusboard offst (say hands on 1&3or4), pulling up to the top hand and rocking over the lowerhand, so youre pushing down on it.... prob best to keep your feet on for a while... do what you want though... my wall also has a couple of beastmakers one above the other, ill use that too but in big pockets...
>>741707
fuck knows... gimmie kraft had a whole chapter about them, so worth checking that out.... i just do a pullup, extent one arm out fully locking off with the other, hold for a few seconds, bring it back in, then repeat on the other side
i also do offset pullups as where the lower hand does a mantle while the higher hand covers the full range of motion...
>>741707
this, cept without the ice tools. Dat core strength tho.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AUTsFJ5q30E
>>741914
My tendons are already pretty strong. I can hang and do pull ups with only two fingers on each hand. Crimping is my strong suit. I know a climber who's a physical therapist and he thinks one of my carpal bones popped out of and back into place. That would explain the pop. Either way, my extensor tendons probably need some work.
>>711591
Lads
I used to be top 15 in the western division (west of Colorado) for sport climbing. I gained a lot of weight naturally and once I picked up weightlifting my climbing career was over. Now I compete in powerlifting, but occasionally I go climb some plastic with friends.
I get depressed whenever I climb now, because I remember how I used to shred 13cs and now I can barely do easy 11s. Anyway, I was wondering, to what extent can hang boarding keep me in climbing shape? I have a hangboard and I got a few routines from metolius, but I don't know to what extent it will help.
Tldr; how comparable is a hangboard to getting on rock? How can I incorporate movements?
>>737966
everyone and their mums are packing round 'ere
>>742482
>"top 15 sport climber"
>can't figure out fundamental application on own
know how i know you're lying?
>>738199
Cheers, sounds like good advice.
>>741914
Should I keep my hand that's sore on the lower or higher side?
>>742482
>top 15 sport
>Gained weight naturally
>comp powerlifting
>natty
>metolius
>"how comparable is a hangboard to getting on rock"
>How do I do movements
Holy hell thats a hell of a mess.
What's a good ratio of time per week to be climbing to avoid injury and improve quickly? Right now I have enough free time to climb daily but I feel this would wear me out fast and wouldn't be the most efficient way to improve. Would it be better to climb intensely for 2/3 days a week or less intensely 5/6/7 days a week?
>>742611
do all everything symmetrically.... just cause you cant feel it on the other side yet, doest mean you wont! if it works, keep at it for injury prevention... its like doing pushups to prevent elbow pain doing pullups (which i never do, but i know exactly why i should)
>>742421
presuming you're >>741897, makes sense... finally someone on 4chan with weak wrists ;)
>>741937
check how accurate his placements are too... mental level of control, my arms would spaz all over the place, placement would fall off, then whack my head on the floor, then axe to the face.
>>742482
you cant. I'm gym fit atm and climbing hard indoors (cant get out as much atm) and shit on rock. its depressing. believe the hype, gym rats are shit outdoors.
Okay, this is gonna be a really random/weird question, but what are the pants that some people climb in?
They dont look like regular jeans and look really comfortable to climb in, especially as it gets cooler.
>>742978
I often see prana jeans mentioned, is it those? In the UK, Moon trousers are popular.
>>742978
I wear E9s, theyre silly comfy and you get to look like a pretentious prick, which is what its all about really. Simonds jeans are meant to be good, my friend whos 6'5" says they fit and thats amazing.
If youre poor, H&Ms womens jeans are actually great to climb in
>>742978
Prana clothes are really comfortable and high quality and look awesome. Too bad they're expensive as hell usually. I also wear Patagonia or Columbia. REI brand stuff is nice, too. Any outdoor oriented cloths are ideal. But fuck, you can climb in anything. I see a lot of people wear Levi's jeans. Climb in literally anything you're comfortable with.
>go to bouldering gym
>everyone there is in groups of 2-3
>just go and climb by myself and go home
h-how do i make rock climbing friends? people that will show me how to do sport and trad climbing in the outdoors?
>>743155
^^This. Wear whatever you want. Climbers wear everything from nothing to Santa Claus costumes (Gotta love climbers' sense of humor). It's climbing, not fashion.
>>743274
Really? Climbing gyms, especially bouldering gyms, are one of the easiest places to meet people and start conversations with complete strangers. If you and another person are working the same problem and failing, make a comment on it. Talk about it. Give each other beta. Or if you see someone really skilled climb something you're struggling with, ask them for tips. As long as you're not a complete asshole or just make everyone uncomfortable, you'll meet people.
>>743155
I wear dickies in the colder months (too hot when it's >70F) and they are some of the best pants I've climbed in. I bought a thrift store version that's a little big in the waist, but a little short in the legs. They give me great range of motion and have EXCELLENT durability compared to a lot of the synthetic fabrics that "outdoor" clothes are made from. In the warmer months I'll wear shorts.
>>742978
I've Always liked synthetic fibers over natural. Arc'teryx softshells or Adidas terrex are sick. I don't find it difficult to spend a shit load of money on that stuff though.
>>743300
>are one of the easiest places to meet people and start conversations with complete strangers
i'm socially retarded tbh
how do i improve my grip strength? can't hold on to some of the holds
last time i went to the climbing gym, i ripped some skin off my finger. what is the best way for it to heal?
I wanna buy a chalk bag for bouldering. Is there ANY difference between the cheap and expensive ones exept the design?
>>744257
That's okay I am too! I just waited for people to talk to me. you become a regular and people start noticing you and talking to you.
>>744262
Organic chalk buckets are the only way to go.
>>744257
As the person who gave who the advice to talk to people, I am also socially retarded. The climbing gym has helped with that, though.
>>744258
Just keep climbing on harder stuff. Climbing is the best thing you can do to improve your grip strength. And improve your skin, too. My skin used to get tender really quickly and I couldn't grab anything, and when I ripped callouses off, it hurt like a bitch. Now my hands are almost leather. If I rip off a callous, there's just another one underneath it. For now, just tape the torn skin.
Whats an ideal weight for someone that's 6'0 (183cm)
>>745911
enough muscle to pull you up the wall. not so much weight to hold you back.
ondra's ~145, sharma's~185.
this is only class 3 but should i do mt russell or mt williamson this weekend? heard the talus in the chute on the west face of williamson might be slippery due to recent snow.
>>745911
The best font guide in press atm has this table at the back for his apporximation of grade v.s. BMI.
I dont 100% believe it, but the people who wrote that book are less injured than me and better at climbing than me.
>>746167
day trip, or overnight?
either way, and assuming you haven't done either, russell, IF it's past the whitney zone permit season or you're up for taking a shot at getting a walk-in.
>>746341
Jesus fuck, at 6' bmi=19 has to be <150lbs
>>746341
>>746492
21 here. fortunately i'm not too concerned about ever pulling .13s.
>>746492
>>746498
>>746341 here, Should have mentioned that they are font boulder grades not french route grades
think about the 6ft freak who can crack out font8A (V11) with low injury risk or V12/13 with a reasonable risk of tweaking something
thats fairly reasonable I'd say, given that most of the top boulderers (bar jan hojer) are about 5'3"
>>746699
>bouldering
then i'm even less concerned. given my preferences i'm more likely to someday pull a .13 than i am even a v6, much less a v11+.
>>711591
>don't ask about shoes edition
fuck, but i have a question.
Any recommendations for good self-rescue guides or books?
>>746820
yeah for sure, the ideal weight asked by >>745911 could basically be anything if youre reasonably fit, the only limitation to climbers weight is being too heavy for the finger tendons etc to do the moves, so if you wanna climb harder routes, just get fitter,, you shouldnt pop things until the boulder cruxes are harder than the BMI chart will let you
(if the BMI chart isnt total BS)
>>746882
If you can't answer it with google or by trying on shoes in person, ask away.
I want to start climbing. I have some La Sportvias and a chalk bag. Where should I start?
>>747010
Where do you live and what's your budget for climbing gear?
/out/ here.
I'm somewhat of an alpinist and i've done a couple of klettersteig trails but I want to 1up my my mountaineering and get into climbing. Problem is that there are 0 climbing gyms in my area. Can I get into climbing without "proper" training? I do have some basic knowledge of rope techniques.
>>746341
This seems a bit weird. I'd like to see the data/method they used to get this conclusion.
BMI doesn't tell you very much about a person really. I imagine as you push the grades up people reliably tend towards the same kind of body composition/body fat, but there are still a lot of other variables that go into describing how physically prepared somebody is for the stresses of bouldering a given grade. It might be a good initial line in the sand, but I don't believe the relationship is so strong and reliable that you can say with confidence that somebody is either at 'low risk' or at 'high risk' depending on one BMI point (5lb of muscle or fat),
>>739807 here. had second pt session today. hurts like a motherfucker. hopefully loosens up enough for some mellow valley slab next weekend. pic related
>>746882
too bad
>>747176
>gym
>proper training for climbing
you can learn to belay in a gym, but you will get nothing about placing pro and building anchors. best bet is to make a friend with someone who has the knowledge and gear.
>>747203
they're really more guidelines than actual rules
>>747261
>tfw when you proper fuck it on a sketchy slab with no gear
>>747688
eh, road rash<taking a grounder. but yeah, it still sucks for sure. not too worried about popping off what i'll be doing gonna keep it super easy i'm already hurt. at this point i just wanta get on *something*, i don't give a fuck what.
Has anyone here climbed at Tick Rock in Pacific Palisades, CA?
Heading out for a weekend camp at Mount Tinbeerwah, looking to do some climbing whilst out there. All geared and ready, but one thing is worrying me: a lot of the climbs in the guides for the area outline that one should belay up a second and top out rather than rap from the top. I prefer the latter and am more experienced with doing so.
Most of the climbs are between 45 - 50 metres. I don't have a 100 meter rope but have felt quite safe rapping with two 60m ropes double-fishermaned together.
If anyone has climbed the area, any idea as to what the go is?
Noob question, do you wear socks with climbing shoes?
>>747971
most people do not. i do. do whatever is comfortable for you (but expect a little friendly heat if you go with socks).
