Scale Model Kit Thread
Images are sometimes not shown due to bandwidth/network limitations. Refreshing the page usually helps.
You are currently reading a thread in /toy/ - Toys
You are currently reading a thread in /toy/ - Toys
This thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resin) models kits.
-Post photos of your builds in progress and your finished builds
-Have your builds critiqued or critique others
-Discuss tips and techniques
-Ask for advice or give advice to others
Some helpful guides to get started:
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20%28Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step%29.pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com/
Previous Thread >>5663152
>>5703339
This is brush painted, isn't it?
Really nice job, I wish mine looked like this.
>>5703339
I want to post my kit but I'm too shy, it's not even that bad but I don't think it's up to standard
>>5703418
Then why mention it? Not so shy, huh?
>>5703418
If u post it I will buy you a 4chan gold account
>>5703339
I must say that I'm surprised by the choice of picture.
>>5703379
Yes it's brush painted but I'm steadily messing it up as I go. The pagoda has really been a handful and I've had to modify some parts for them to fit but at least it'll be done soon.
>>5703581
>that tower
what ship is that?
>>5703584
IJN Yamashiro by Fujimi
>>5703581
we usually chose something from the previous thread, its a case of finding something that isn't a terrible photo and is framed well.
ship was it this time
So my current paint situation is 99% isopropyl alcohol and Tamiya acrylics. Im also brush painting. How do I not fuck up my next model? Pic related is next attempt after first model.
>>5703761
don't use tamiya paints if you're hand brushing.
It dries up too fast, which will make all your work look ilke shit.
>>5703765
this. use humbrol enamels and white spirit.
>>5703761
If you want to brush paint, Enamels tend to be better (when thinned properly). You can still get acrylics to work, but you need to find some acrylic retarder that works with Tamiya paints. I think tamiya makes their own version. Anyway, you mix a tiny bit of retarder with 99% isopropyl and you should be able to brush paint very well with it. I don't know the correct retarder/iso ratio, since i've only ever used vallejo acrylics (which are waterbased).
>>5704003
http://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Finishes-Retarder-Acrylic-Version/dp/B00F61CSTY
Here's the stuff you want
>model looks perfectly fine with my own eyes
>take picture with camera
>all of a sudden all the glossy shit and other imperfections come out and now the model looks like trash
![655034abcc[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/1k46Ull.jpg "655034abcc[1].jpg")
>>5703418
I'm not afraid to post this horrific train wreck (SiP), you shouldn't be afraid to post yours. You're anonymous; what are we going to do, track you down, open your front door and call you a faggot to your face?
>>5704308
Maybe
>>5704236
I think youre using too much flash.
try turning flash off and lighting it naturally, or from some other light source.
harsh lighting makes anything look shit.
>>5704236
>>5704444
This. Without flash and good, natural lights (multiple light sources work best) it will look way better. pic is /tg/-related but still helpful
why does tamiya acrylic have such large flakes?
Not sure if I want to re-coat it or just run with it
![9b4251f45c[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/b0D79tO.jpg "9b4251f45c[1].jpg")
>>5704308
Tried a different location. Tracks/wheels are still unfinished, and the ATGM/Gun need to be washed completely and redone.
I promised results and here they are. These are the paints and thinners I've used. While the AK paint is good for big surfaces, it is no good for detail painting as it gets runny VERY fast, even if unthinned.
>>5704822
These are the results of the AK paint with and without their own thinner, sprayed with 0.2 and 0.4 needle at various psi settings from 10 to 40 psi. As you can see, I've not managed to spray it right.
>>5704826
The Ammo of Mig paint was a real surprise. It's finely pigmented and sprays very good using AKs thinner. I ordered several paints from them, to test this further.
What's really interesting: the Revell thinner actually made the Model Airs sprayable! The tip dry was reduced to a minimum and they sprayed on smoothly and precisely. I used a mix of 3/1 and 3/2 paint/thinner. Psi settings are marked with pencil.
Brush painting is so fucking hard compared to airbrushing. Do I have to thin them to get a smooth finish?
>>5704914
>Do I have to thin them
ALWAYS thin your paints anon.
>>5704832
>the Revell thinner actually made the Model Airs sprayable
Isn't Model Air supposed to be sprayable out of the bottle?
>>5704826
>>5704822
>>5704832
Glad to see that finally found a solution for your problem with the vallejo (although a curious one). I just bought a takom chieftain mk10, for dat fine ass berlin brigade scheme, and the paint refs are ammo so ill give them a try also.
>>5703765
>>5704003
>>5704916
All my “old” models are brush painted with tamiya acrylics straight from the bottle and never had problems. I’ll post one to show I’m not talking out of my ass
>>5704924
It’s a bit "blotchy" in some details but this is without primer, no varnish, no filters, no wash, absolutely nothing. Just tamiya acrylics and one brush, also only water for the calc.
I think it looks quite good without the fucking hassle of the airbrush, but as always, it’s a matter of personal preferences
Just bought this, along with a $140 Pontos advanced Photo etch, resin / deck and turned brass set.
Going to start working on it as soon as I finish my Shimakaze, which should be in the next few days. I waited and just bought some XF-75 instead of mixing the wrong color, I'll post some pictures later. Not going to weather it too much either, just some rust streaking on the sides and a very thin dark black/grey wash over the hull.
>>5704826
>>5704832
Are you the Sturmtiger guy? That looks like the piece of the hull you cut out from it.
Anyways, I don't really like to use Vallejo's stuff, it's great for hand painting, probably the best stuff for that, but in terms of airbrushing I just cannot get it to come out the way I want it.
I've heard good things about AK and MIGs paint too though, I just don't want to invest in switching to them because I have so much unused Tamiya paint.
>>5704457
What color is that? XF-16? What are you using as a base for the paint? Is it properly sanded?
You might have a bad jar of paint.
>>5703581
That's really not bad at all for brush painting anon. The weathering looks good as well. You should try getting some photo etch railings though, would really help add to the details.
>>5704919
It's supposed to be, yes. The reality is that the nozzle clogs up after a few seconds and you're having a bad time airbrushing the stuff. Gonna try Vallejo's flow improver too.
>>5704941
It actually is, I used it for testing the camo I wanted to put on it. The basecoat and shading is already on, expect some pics soon.
>>5704974
Looks really neat, did you hand paint the little "HL" on the rounds?
![[ROKUGA] GIRLS und PANZER der FILM (BDRip 1280x720 x264 FLAC).mkv_snapshot_01.21.03_[2016.05.30_19.33.07].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/DVSvJdE.jpg "[ROKUGA] GIRLS und PANZER der FILM (BDRip 1280x720 x264 FLAC).mkv_snapshot_01.21.03_[2016.05.30_19.33.07].jpg")
So what colour and camo pattern would you consider this to be?
Looks like a white-washed grey to me, but definitely lighter than german grey. Dunkelgrau?
>>5704989
1:1 light grey to flat white thinly sprayed over medium gray. Are you going to use Tamiya's kit to make that?
Gonna be lighting up a sub for the first time. Where can I buy led components in store?
>>5705056
>Gonna be lighting up a sub for the first time
What does this mean? Putting lights on a submarine model, like the red and green position lights?
Also leds are available in electronics stores (like sparkfun or the physical equiv.), buy them with some resistors (1k should do) and wire them yourself for a custom and easy solution if you are familiar with soldering and extremely basics electronics, or hack a toy/Christmas lights, but those run at 110/220V and perhaps need more work than doing it from scratch
>>5704986
Yeah, that's the only HL round, so I positioned it near the "window" to see it better.
>>5705093
Pegasus Nautilus. Doing lights on the inside. I checked radio shack but they had SINGLE leds for 3 bucks. Online theyre about 18 cents each
>>5704935
very cool, love 1:350 ships, look forward to watching it being built.
fucking photo etch tho, expensive man.
>>5705146
Yeah, but it's not just a photo etch set, it's a complete set of a lazer-etched wood deck, turned brass barrels for the main guns as well as the smaller AA guns, resin parts for the AA guns and other smaller details, and steel deck etched parts alongside 5 frets of photo etch. It will probably take me quite some time just to assemble the entire thing due to all of this.
I kinda regret the purchase now though, because I just found out Academy makes a premium version of the kit with their own photo etch, brass barrels, etc. It also includes a kit of the Submarine that sunk the Indianapolis as well... for cheaper. That said, the Pontos set is worth every penny for what you get.
>>5705143
I guess you wanna do something like this right? Looks awesome.
Perhaps not even LEDs are required and small lightbulbs do the job and those are cheap everywhere, if you are ready and set for leds perhaps on sparkfun or adafruit you will find everything electronic you need for cheap and quickly (faster than ordering from China and perhaps better quality control)
>>5705158
you probably want a case as well, other wise it will be a dust magnet. I will have to learn to build my own cases because it has to be cheaper than buying.
>>5705233
I have display cases for most of my smaller stuff, but yeah I might have to look into making one myself. I've done plenty of woodwork in the past and have the tools to make my own case if I want.
Anyways here's an update on the Shimakaze, most of the main paintwork is done, I'm going to do some light drybrushing, maybe a light grey filter to give it some fading and then a gloss coat for some decals followed by a wash.
>>5705437
Looks great, and man that PE work is something that if I tried to do it, it would look like small razor wire fence
>>5705738
Thanks, honestly photo etch isn't all that bad, it's just damn time consuming and fidgety.
It also helps to have a good set of tools to work it correctly (pic related). For example, the pliers in are excellent for holding the piece while I file off the nub. The pointed tweezers are very useful too. They both work equally well for bending. Luckily I inherited a lot of really high quality Lindstrom jewelry tools from my mom who doesn't use them anymore. My sprue cutters are also a pair of Lindstrom that are ~10 years old and still cut perfect to this day.
I also found it's really nifty to use scraping blades (you get get box of 100 for ~$5), as they don't dull quickly, are extremely useful for using as a guide to bending pieces, and are the perfect tool for cutting photo etch from the fret. I also always cut photo etch on top of a glass plate.
>>5705056
Ive seen people by the LED components and make the IR dazzlers on the T90A shine but I have absolutely no idea how I would go about doing it.
It'll probably be difficult/impossible, but can anyone identify this model?
>>5705806
Not that difficult anon.
Metal Earth Tiger I:
http://www.amazon.com/Metal-Earth-Tiger-1-Tank/dp/B00BERG8FY
>>5705814
Holy shit you're awesome.
'Sup m8s
So i'm about to get my first model warship, which also contains photoetch parts. I'm new to both model warships, and PE. Does anyone have some tips on how to secure PE parts to the hull? I currently own some tamiya plastic cement, but I don't think that'll work with photoetch.
>>5705864
Almost forgot, pic related, it's the ship
>>5705869
>>5705864
If it's not too late, I would suggest getting Dragon's Z-38, Z-39 or Z-31/32 kit instead. I've built the Z-38 myself and it is a really nice kit, I think probably better than Trumpeters in engineering and design. All of these kits are basically the same hull with some differences in armament, the superstructure, etc.
Also get an eduard photo etch upgrade set for it, I believe they sell one for the Z-39, but it works just as well for the Z-38.
The reason why I would avoid trumpeter is because their photo etch is dogshit. It's too soft, their railings often aren't even pre-designed for the kit, and are just a fret of railings you have to cut to length and bend yourself.
That said, if you already bought the Trump Zerstroyer, get an eduard photo etch set for the railings at least, as it will definitely be an improvement over whatever Trumpeter has in the box. (I just looked up the kit and I am right, the photo etch is NOT pre-designed for the kit, it's the same shit soft railings you have to cut to length yourself).
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/156212-eduard-53065-german-z-43-1944
pic related.
>>5705890
Also if you do get the Dragon kit, here's an link to an album I made of the build. I used an eduard photo etch which replaced a lot of the kits own photo etch, as well as added the rails and a lot of other small details.
http://imgur.com/a/lGy8N#0
Simply put, the Dragon kit is definitely better than the Trump kit, for the same price basically. The superstructure details are molded with slide molds, unlike Trumpeter's kit, meaning you don't have to glue four pieces together to make four walls of the bridge and whatnot.
>>5705898
Not sure if I can afford the Eduard PE right now, but i've put it in my wishlist. Thanks anyways though anon
>>5705864
>>5705869
Also I forgot to answer your question in the first place... there are several ways to attach photo etch. Probably the most common is super glue, or any kind of cyanoacrylate. I prefer to use a gel super glue myself, as it is so much easier to work with than regular thin super glue.
Other alternatives are slower-drying water-based glues, there is a guy that makes his own acrylic-based glue (Gator's Grip) which I've used a few times, but it dries a little too slow for my liking, but it is good for certain applications where dry-time isn't a concern.
If this is your first time, I would advise using gel superglue. Get a piece of spare plastic, and place a dab of gel on it. I use toothpicks to apply the glue to my photo etch often, or just dab the piece into the glue itself with some tweezers (being careful to not let the glue touch your fingers or the tweezers or it will glue to them instead). The toothpick method is the most common though and it works really well. Also refer to the post I made earlier for some good tools to have for working with photo etch. That little clamp thing is very useful, but kinda expensive and not really necessary for everything.
>>5705929
I think i've got some gel superglue laying around somewhere. I'll give it a shot, will update eventually, just trying to finish my 1/48 B29 (Monogram)
>>5705773
Jealous of that build and work space, I look forward to seeing it finished. I want to try using more photo etched parts but right now I lack the tools and skills. The few parts that were on my 1/350 Yukikaze were challenging enough so I doubt I'd be able to do it on my 1/700 ships.
>>5704947
I primed in black, Sorry for the potato quality. It was only supposed to be an update shot for my own consumption.
Yeah, the base coat went on smooth as a baby's ass. I've always found Tamiya acrylics being too flaky. I burnished a few areas to no avail. Might just drop the project for now
>>5706682
Carry on with it, there is no fuck-up one couldnt fix
>>5706682
Do you use Tamiya lacquer thinner to thin their acrylics?
Just finished my tamiya cromwell. Should I stick with traditional green camo or do something original? I also have a tamiya jagdpanzer IV and early tiger I I havnt painted yet but will do some sort of camo on them as well.
>>5706766
did you even paint it?
Hey, is there a place where you can browse tank models in 3D or something? or at least from different views, specially from top-down?
>>5706942
World of Tanks, heheh
Also AK interactive have something called "Revolver" on their App/Website. There, you can view some models like you said.
>>5706955
This. I use War Thunder, also allows you to view tanks you don't own, although i havent played WoT in ages,
For modern stuff I use Wargame RD, but the models have less detail.
>>5706964
The newest Update of WoT also allows you to view the tanks you don't have, It's real nice.
>>5706879
Not yet. I don't currently have the money to buy the paints specific for these tanks as now I am saving up for university and that means a tight budget. However, I am making a list for when I'm done saving up.
>>5706705
Thanks, I think it's looking alot better
>>5706729
Yes I did, the only thing I can think of is perhaps I was spraying too little to create a wet surface, but I honestly doubt it. I was moving lots of material when I did the coat
>>5707225
Much better
>>5707225
What kit is that? 1/48 Eduard Mirage III?
>>5707225
That doesn't look that bad anon. Try some Alclad paints next time though, they have so many shades and it looks a lot more realistic.
You could also try thinning down the Tamiya to about ~20-30% paint to thinner and build it up a lot slower, similar to how Alclad sprays (though Alclad is <10% paint to thinner I think).
Do you guys also have one or multiple models you just feel unhappy about?
Sometimes when that feeling gets too strong I just buy the kit again and try it to do better.
>>5707345
Yes. Tried to make the 1/72 Revell Eurofighter and still don't have one completed.
Sorry if this is not the right thread, but could anyone tell me how the Aoshima Initial D models are (looking into the volume 37 A86)? Are they hard to build?
I'm fairly inexperienced, having only built gunpla thus far.
>>5705056
http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20160601161739&SearchText=small+led
http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20160601161841&SearchText=side+glow+fiber+optic
>>5707867
You lack reading comprehension.
>>5708078
aliexpress is a store...
>led components
not to mention, he has expression problems unless he actually needs THE SHIT THAT LEDs ARE MADE OUT OF. like translucent resins, semiconductors, etc...
>>5708232
>Where can I buy led components in store?
The term "in store" generally refers to the ability to walk into a physical building.
For example, when ordering online from a big box retailer, you're often given the option of having it shipped to your house, or picking it up "in store."
>>5708283
>The term "in store" generally refers to the ability to walk into a physical building.
Why the fuck would you want to do that if you can simply order the stuff for less money in china?
>>5708283
It's kinda weird to ask about physical stores (without even giving any information about where you live) on an imageboard like this one where there are people from all over the world.
>>5707242
Hobbyboss IIICJ
>>5707262
Yeah, it might be the thinner to paint ratio, but i doubt it. I usually thin around 2-1 (33%) solvent to paint anyway. Funny you should mention alclad, I went and overcoated it with a few different shades to achieve this new effect.
>>5707810
They're based on Aoshima's car kits and whilst I cant exactly tell you what the AE86 is like, I do have a S15 Silvia in the backlog.
Taking a glance at it (the initial D one), for a car kit I'd say it's intermediate, since you're going to have to fill some gaps (probably, I'm just using my eyes). It's harder than any of the graded Bandai gunpla and I should remind you to expect to plan more than you would for gunpla. Having to paint a kit, especially a car kit where the finish will be crucial, adds a whole new dimension to modelling which might easily come bite you in the ass. That said, it's not a particularly complex or difficult kit.
Working on weathering the Shimakaze right now. Did a very light wash over some raised details on the hull, but I'm trying to leave it sort of clean so it's not over-done. I'm going to do rust streaking and some light grey filtering over the sides of the hull and superstructure. Then I have to do the rigging.
Also this came in the mail... can't wait to start it, though it is a nightmare of photo etch and resin. Even the little tiny Bofors guns have resin bases not 5mm wide that you have to add photo etch to. Also have to drill out microscopic holes for the brass gun barrels somehow...
I've been trying to "save" (more like finishing a half painted model) this kv I had lying around for years along with a dragon Ferdinand, they will be the test beds for muddy mess and testing some ak washes and mig paints I've bought. Then the chieftain will be next and I hope all the testing will amount to some good results ...
>>5709646
Maybe it's the photo or I imagine the ship too small, but aren't those streaks too thick? Excellent work btw
>>5709650
My body and soul are ready to see this build
How is Hasagawa's 1/72 draken? I pre-ordered the espada team variant recently.
>>5709732
According to scalemates its a quite old kit but have been repackaged with new decals over the years (ace combat ver. being one), that doesn’t mean it’s bad but seems to have problems in the intake/engine union, nothing that sanding and putty can’t solve, but also has a ton of aftermarket, the cockpit it’s all decal so eduards PE would be a nice addition (ref PE72023). Here’s a review of the hasegawa RF-35 that is the only version of the draken with new parts (64 vs 65 or something like that):
http://www.britmodeller(.)com/forums/index.php?/topic/234933818-saab-rf-35-recon-draken-hasegawa-172/
>>5709793
I didn't know of the intake/engine union issues, but I do have enough sanding material and putty so that shouldn't be a problem. I'll look into the aftermarket cockpit parts though. haven't really worked with them but I can always learn. Thanks.
![DSC_2700[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/SfOpi1U.jpg "DSC_2700[1].jpg")
>>5709716
The streaks are a work in progress, I apply the enamel fluid, let it dry for a few minutes, then I blur the streaking into the hull itself. I will do the same with a light grey tone on parts of the hull to add some fading.
It's kinda hard to see due to the gloss coat glare, but it will pop out more once I place a matte layer over it.
>>5709716
Trumpeter KV-1 with appliqué armour
>>5709911
Much better
>>5709911
It is still WIP, right?
Or is there a reason for the lower line of "windows" (sorry, i have no clue about ships, but i assume these holes are windows) not having streaks?
>>5710767
They do have them, it's just harder to see due to the glare from the gloss coat.
They are windows however, most WWII naval vessels had plenty of windows, that's where the crew quarters were located on the destroyer.
I glossed my Zero. Pics later, maybe, but I'm having camera problems.
This has been one of those slow builds, especially the undercarriage, and the fact I brush painted it with the paints airfix provided.
Any suggestions on how to weather a plane? I might do some chipping around the cowling but I assume a Pearl Harbor plane would be clean...
Have a pic of the Sturmtiger in its Basecoat.
Also bump.
By far the shittiest decal application of my life. I'm thinking of peeling some areas and hand paint them, coat everything in varnish
>>5710644
Exactly, the kit is good but some fittings are shoddy and the tracks quite bad. But overall I remember it quite enjoyable to build and cheap.
>>5711089
Im not an expert in airplanes but in general, unless abandoned or in a really shitty situation, are quite well maintained and clean, compared to afvs. Some chipping on the acces to the cockpit and depending of the "area" (island, carrier, mainland based) and year of operation will dictate the type of wear (sun, salt and grime, dust, or pristine)
For general weathering this vid gives a good finish, not too heavy nor too complex to pull of
www.scalemodelguide(.)com/part2pwvg/
>>5711501
Hand paint it.
![Paint4[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/wARmlS6.jpg "Paint4[1].jpg")
i bought two of those shits yesterday for 20 sents each. how do i revive them? i put some vallejo airbrush thinner and isoprop.
![85-5626-lg[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/fIM5Wvq.jpg "85-5626-lg[1].jpg")
>>5712845
btw, what can you say about the 1/48 A-6E™ Navy Attack Bomber Product ID: 85-5626
should i get it or wait for a wasegawa?
Do you paint the parts first, or build the model first and then paint it?
>>5712873
Paint the bits that are hard to reach first, then make the rest of the model and paint it later
>>5712853
No, steer away from that kit unless you are fine with 1980's molds and raised details.
Hasegawa will never release an Intruder because Kinetic is already producing the best Intruder in 48th scale. They are obviously more expensive than Revells, but totally worth it.
>>5711501
Did you put future underneath without covering the whole turret? That'll give you a bad time when overcoating the whole thing with a dull cote.
Next time make sure to have some micro sol and micro set (Or equivalent) to put over the decals once you've placed them under a fully cured layer of gloss varnish.
You could try adding some decal softener to see if you can get it to even out, but use Mr Marks series, they are stronger than Micro and may save you.
Any good tips or tutorials for digital camo?
>>5713034
Yeah, get narrow (3mm or whatever size you want) masking tape, paint your base color, put tape on, paint 2nd color,
If you like put more tape on, paint 3rd color.
Apply your tape in 90° angle.
Just about done here. Only thing left to do is add the rigging and its done.
>>5712873
paint the small parts separately then glue them when the major components are painted.
I hate rigging ships... such a pain in the ass.
On the plus side though, Hasegawa actually provides a detailed 2-page schematic of the rigging so you can actually do it properly... other model manufacturers should take note, because they often neglect to show it.
They even show the rigging from every angle too, making it easy to tell how to place it correctly.
>>5713331
Is that stretched sprue?
>>5713339
No, it's E-Z line, a stretchable very thin line. Works really well for rigging not only because it stretches, but it also resists breaking. I used to use stretched sprue (for aircraft), but it's just too fragile and if it's too thin and has too much tension it's prone to snapping.
There's other alternatives out there to stretched sprue though, I haven't tried any of them aside from EZ line.
It has arrived!
>>5713349
Why not use black EZ-line?
>>5713360
I'm going to paint it once its done. I don't have black wire.
>>5713355
>that bomb
>>5713134
Looks really good m8
72 window pane masks.
72.
7.2. Each. Two of these.
Holy fucking shit.
![IMG_20160603_082353[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/hB1eBVe.jpg "IMG_20160603_082353[1].jpg")
First model. Redone now and it's sloppy af but I'm happy with it. I'll know better for next time.
>>5713696
what is it for?
>>5713510
Dat Revell 1/48 B-29
have you guys have any experience with ak intractive OIF and OEF washes ,they dont seem like the normal dark washes
>>5713696
At least they're all pre-cut... imagine having to do it with an x-acto knife blade.
>>5714029
I have the OIF one, I've used it a few times. I think it's just a standard enamel based wash. I'm not sure what they use to thin it though, but it seems different from standard mineral (white) spirit.
Anyways almost done with the rigging now, I have to do the other side of the mast and the rear mast and I'm finished.
>>5714058
always love to see your work anon. Keep it up, you're an inspiration.
>>5713788
neat.
>>5714058
>No cute skirt with black thong.
>No happy turrets
You sure you built it correctly?
>>5714003
guy with the 1/48 B29 here, it takes some work to make it fit, but that bitch is sexy and massive.
>>5714058
That came out really nice, as expected. Although the upper deck parts look bit too clean to me. It's almost like there are some people who actually take care of the ship's maintenance, unlike on my Yukikaze.
>>5714782
Your Yuikikaze looks good anon. Yeah, it is a little too clean, your weathering looks really nice by the way.
>>5714285
I was baffled at what you were trying to say until I googled "Shimakaze" and the results were a bunch of anime girls. Funny though, I only bought the kit because I wanted to build a Japanese destroyer, and this one was very recently released.
Finished building the Bradley. It's a pretty good kit. Should get another one in the future and paint it in NATO colors.
Doing some oil washes, they are tedious as fuck but give nice and subtle color variations to the surfaces. Shame I fucked up with too much white, but the good thing of this technique is that everything can be easily fixed.
>>5714029
I bought these and the AK-062 (rust and grime or something like that) and I’ll try them after finishing with the oils, the composition of ak washes and mig ammo ones is not only the pigment and thinner (white spirit btw) but they also have stabilizers and other chemical shit. Other than that is as >>5714058 (excellent work with the shimakaze btw) said, just enamel washes, that you can reproduce with oils and white spirits, but they are ready to use and comfy.
>>5713028
The “shadow” behind the decals is a gloss varnish layer, then water and microsol. I thought would need to peel it off and hand paint it and went to bed quite mad at microsol for failing me in my darkest hour, but the little fucker had a surprise for me next morning, it wrapped up nicely around the bolts and only two little zones needed painting. Then covered in matt varnish with the rest of the turret and looks flawless
>>5713745
The sloppiness makes it look like some older soviet vehicles to me.
>>5714951
Like WW2 older?
Shrubbery!
>>5714959
Selfmade flocking made from sponge, using scissors and acrylic paints, need to make some trees too, using this guys build as an inspiration
http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=57462&start=20
>>5714956
Like this
>>5714964
Oh. Well that was the effect I was trying to achieve. Thanks!
>>5714888
Thanks. At first I was planning on keeping the upper structures a bit more clean but I felt like it lacked character. In the end I went a little over board.
It's kinda cute that you haven't heard of KanColle before. I actually looked for a Shimakaze kit first but the only one I could find was the Yukikaze so I settled for it.
>>5713745
Is this the same BMP that's been haunting the last couple of threads? It looks a lot better now.
>>5714922
What scale is it? 1/72? Looks like it has pretty nice details for such a small scale but then again I haven't built anything in 1/72 in ~15 years so I don't know about the quality of newer kits. Now get some paint on it.
>>5714959
Looks cool, what are you going to use it for?
>>5715008
>what are you going to use it for?
Its for a nice boat
>>5715011
https://youtu.be/JeimE8Wz6e4
>>5715011
Ah, it's for the nice boat. So you're going to cover the dark parts with "water"?
>>5715008
It's Dragon's 1/72 M3A2 Bradley. It's pretty good but it's designed to be built a certain way. For example I had to modify the plastic parts to have the TOW missile launcher in the stowed position.
>>5715008
Accidentally hit the captcha button
It is the same BMP. I bought a multitude of new paint colors to use and experiment with, and I'm happy with the results. A mix of Humbrol and Testors paints were used
I repainted the tracks to a better color and applied a second coat of dark green. I learned several other pieces of advice (Several thin coats are better than one thick coat; how washes and drybrushes layer). I learned how to and applied the drybrush technique in the same day. A light green was used.
As time goes on I'll fix up the wheels more and apply a proper silver coat to the ATGM in place of the chunky flat white I have on it now, but several inherent problems (I fucked the tracks themselves up hard) mean I'm going to end up moving on.
At the moment, I'm working on a T-72B and will test out more techniques as I learn them. I'm expecting the tracks to work much better since they're magic tracks as opposed to the new dragon tracks, and I have found and bought a bottle of Tamiya extra thin glue (Which has been amazing so far)
Since I'm still very new to this however, I wouldn't mind some recommendations on models and equipment.
>>5715038
Post pics
![1ffc688897[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/GrdRW0K.jpg "1ffc688897[1].jpg")
>>5715040
The camera is better at making the imperfections come out, but it's too bright and fuzzy at times.
>>5715063
T-72 pics
![b7fdd0c22b[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/WyYCSIz.jpg "b7fdd0c22b[1].jpg")
>>5715077
Only the turret is done. (Unpainted, no ERA) The upper hull came in slightly twisted and I have no idea how to fix it.
I don't know how to fix the white stubs (Knife is too dull; sandpaper makes it worse).
>>5715020
You are correct. Thats a long ways to go though until that part
here is my shitty half ass'd weeb tank. didnt even follow the instructions or proper colors. never even heard of GUP. just wanted a weeb tank
>>5715122
It looks okay
OK, so that was my 1st time using a models made wash (Vallejo acrylic wash) and the result is fucking atrocious.
Maybe because I was putting my trust in this "For Models effect so noting can go wrong" that I was reckless as shit with it. But I've actually achieved better results using my own made wash from spirit and artists enamel paint.
so question is, how do I remove it? I tried rubbing it off with a q-tip but it doesn't really works and in some places its just goes though the varnish and remove the paint.
Model was a 1/17 T-72 testing subject that I had laying around so no harms really done, but I'd still like to salvage it.
And on an unrelated note so I wont be a bore that just cries for help, here's my WIP Ontos.
>>5715338
That's because Vallejo's washes are acrylic. You have to remove the excess immediately. They're basically thinned down acrylic paint. You can't leave them to dry.
>>5715338
I suppose that being Vallejo they are acrylic, so unles it was applied on top of a coat of varnish you "would" be out of luck as is like painting over it, if it's applied over the coat use acrylic thinner of its brand (time is extremely important here). Also a wash shouldn't be applied as a filter without being thinned (9p/1t) or too happily but being subtle (just saying based from my fuck ups and videos). Nice ontos, I thought it was the model with the wash at first and oh the horror the horror
>>5715445
Yeah, I know that.
I just couldn't find that sweet spot... cleaning too early and the entire wash was off, too late and the wash was stuck to the model holding for dear life.
so I acted as I did with the home-made wash, obviously wasn't such a good call.
100% finished. Can finally get started on the Indianapolis.
>>5715494
>>5715497
>>5715499
>>5715494
look a the op, try that shot, your lightings fine but your composition kinda sucks.
and turn your f-stop down so you don't get so much blur and get the whole thing in focus.
>>5715506
Thanks for the tips, honestly I know nothing about photography, but I inherited a DSLR. PI've mostly just been messing with the exposure times to catch more light for the lightbox, haven't really messed with the aperture, but I'll try a smaller setting and post the results.
>>5715499
Took a similar shot with some adjustments, do you guys think this looks a little better?
![aa64686435941697ee0731a427466373[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/LhxtcVN.jpg "aa64686435941697ee0731a427466373[1].jpg")
>>5715579
if you look at the top row, higher f stop lets you get more in focus. but your picture will get darker because of it.
but this is why you have lots of light and shoot in .RAW format so you can lighten it in photoshop afterwards..
but it will make it a bit noisy, which is why people spend lots on cameras for less noise in the bits they lightened.
so you got the find the right balance really.
I think your front and back are still blurred.
wider angle lens would help fit more in,
but if you really 'get into' photography and have special lenses for everything it gets expensive.
mobile phones are just as good these days and have quite wide lenses.
im not great myself by any means, its not an enviable task shooting long models like that.
maybe look at some other people shots, magazine shots etc see how they capture it.
model looks nice tho.
>>5715594
Thanks a lot for the explanation m8. I'll post a few more I've been taking that I think look a bit better. I've increased the exposure time quite a bit while lowering the aperture in increments.
I'm not going to take any more photos, but I'll try to keep adjusting the settings to make them better on future projects. This one I think is an improvement though, my exposure is really low, at 1.3, and my aperture at 20, the shutter speed is so slow that I had to turn on a countdown so that there was no shaking when taking the image. I use a tripod, but it's really shitty and tends to lower itself as you take pictures. Also missing two of its rubber pegs on the legs making it somewhat unstable.
I think this pic is slightly better but it's far from perfect obviously, still a lot of blur on the back edge.
>>5715611
This one also came out pretty good I think, not too much out of focus on the edges.
>>5715611
Is it just the picture or are the window panes on the bridge painted over?
>>5715824
They are not painted over, it's Micro Kristal Klear, a elmers-glue type liquid that you can use to make clear windows.
Granted, they are somewhat frosted over because they had been hit by the matte coat I sprayed on to touch up some super glue marks.
Does a purpose-built scriber offer any advantage over, say, a carbide dentist's drill head?
What filling putty is everyone using? I'm have been using testors but I'm not very happy with it. It came separated in the tube, is hard to apply since it dries quickly but takes a long time to really harden. It also pulls out of seams a lot on me.
>>5716126
I'm using Tamiya's Basic grey putty. It shrinks when it dries.
Debating on getting this 1/72 Saturn V for my birthday. Should I? Does anyone have any experience with this kit? Pic related, the box
>>5716535
I have no experience with that kit, but I do know that Saturn V is massive. I don't know how large it would be in 1/72, but should still be quite a huge model.
>>5716583
Holy shit, I had to look it up because I knew Saturn V is fuckhueg, but HOLY SHIT. Look at the size of this fucking thing in 1/72...
Do it Anon, and please post updates as you build, I'd love to see someone tackle this thing.
>>5716585
God dammit, I forgot the image. That's a fucking Ikea Detolf for scale by the way... so it's at least 4ft. tall.
>>5716596
Also, I found a different variant on Spruebrothers, only $130 there for the one with Skylab.
http://store.spruebrothers.com/product_p/dmls11021-os.htm
I need to build this fucking thing myself one day, what an awesome display piece.
>>5716126
I'm using Revell's putty for coarse filling jobs (it's easy to get here) and Milliput for finer gaps, as it doesn't shrink and can be nicely manipulated with water.
Anyone know if there are any aftermarket decals for this particular aircraft?
>>5716725
The G.W.H. Kit No. L4810 – Northrop P-61B Black Widow ‘Last Shoot Down 1945’ has them on the kit
http://www.hyperscale.com/2013/reviews/kits/gwh4810reviewbf_1.htm
Other planes:
http://www.ultracast.ca/Aircraft%20Decals%20-%2048%20Scale%20-%20P-61.htm
I haven't found "the spook" on other decal sheets but may exist, if you wanna other profiles or something from the book just ask. Personal favorite of mine is "the virgin widow" if black or "moon happy" if green
>>5715087
Get some 400 grit
>>5715993
depends on the specific tool, but the difference is, a panel scribing tool will cut a square hole as apposed to a V shaped one.
but a lot are the same.
I purchased a dental set but found the tips not to be very fine or sharp, tho I could sand them, I don't need to when I have some other tools to do it.
>>5716725
racis
If this is what it takes to make the plane halves line up then by Joe I'm gonna make it fucking happen
>>5717041
Wew lad, talking about desperate measures. Also revell can go fuck themselves with that fitting quality straight from the 80s
>>5714922
Primed
>>5717041
Don't use a dremel, just use coarse grained sanding sticks so you can at least control the sanding. Also, sand in one direction, yes it's more time consuming, but you will get better results.
I remember building that kit when I was younger, I was so proud of it, and my mom decided to smash it to pieces one day because she got angry at me for some reason. Did the same thing to a B-17 I had.
Anyways... I wish someone would come out with a newer 1:48 superfortress...
>>5717071
Revell can go fuck themselves forever, I ain't buying one of their shits again unless absolutely necessary
>>5717437
just read some reviews beforehand and all is fine
>>5714964
>Fucking whitewalls
Those ruskies know how to ride in style
Started on the Indianapolis. 1 of 8 Oerlikon twin 20mm autocannons done... only took ~25 minutes to assemble one of them. The photo etch is really high quality though, it's tougher to bend than most others I've used, but it makes it more durable.
The downside is that these incredibly small pieces are very tough to bend into shape.
>>5717556
>took ~25 minutes to assemble one of them
That's some nightmare fuel right there. I don't think I would be able to carry on thinking about how long the rest of the kit would take.
>>5717647
Granted, ~10 minutes was cutting dozens of parts out of the photo etch frets, so the remaining 7 haven't taken nearly as long. Each turret has only 11 parts, but getting them bent into the right position is a pain because the whole thing is smaller than my pinky.
Also have to file down some of these small ass pieces with a metal file to remove the nubs adding a lot of time... working with photo etch can be a bitch.
>>5717665
>has "only" 11 parts
>the whole thing is smaller than my pinky
Please stop. You're giving me PTSD.
>>5717556
Fuckin sick
>>5717150
Do you have any rucksacks or ammo cans you can put on the turret bustle or the sides?
Ive been looking all over online for things like 1:72 armoured crews and small things like jerry cans, ammo cans, sleeping bags etc.
>>5718352
It already has ammo cans on the turret bustle. I just want to pump out this kit and be done with it. I didn't plan to do much with it.
>>5717556
How do you do it? Building ships is my nightmare
>>5717150
Sprayed the sand color
>>5719825
Done with oils, now to let it dry for two days and start with chipping and mud
>>5717556
>>5719829
Fuck me those things are tiny
>>5720145
is that a replaced wheel?
>>5720219
Long story short shit happened and this half finished kit and a dragon elephant sat for more than eight years under the stairs. This summer I've picked up doing scale models again and these two were going to be the warm up/test beds for new techniques. The kv1 was almost finished but had a lot of troubles: one track is plastic links the other is vinyl, the saw and the clear part of the front light are mia and some wheels were missing when I've started to repainted it (that's why some parts looks olive drab and others dark green) and when I found them I reeeeally didn't feel like painting them because I wanna do the muddiest tank ever (I never weathered my other kits) to see. Also the "Ben" has some misspainted zones, but that's me trying to be cool and give it an informal frontline look that looked cool when I did them but now I'm not sure. So whatever you see that seems off its not "scale model magazine cool" but lucky mistakes/test, except the turret in general that pleases me a lot and looks more or less how I planned
>>5720145
I think it looks nice. Especially for a "test bed".
>>5718352
http://eshop.friendshipmodels.org.uk/
>>5720285
Not the guy youre replying to, but I think it looks good
>I paid $13.00 for this
Holy fuck, Jiminez is such a fucking cheap fuck. I should have known better though. I mean it's better than my over-scale thick white EZ-line, but there's hardly anything to work with here.
>>5721736
Forgot the image.
>>5721739
Where did you buy it? It's 4.50 Euros.
>>5721739
Buy a cheap black party wig...use that. Or get a girlfriend and use her hair.
>>5721806
>get a girlfriend
yeah... right...
>>5721739
What thickness EZ Line were you using because you can get a 100' spool for almost that money and it's only 0.05mm thicker.
http://www.modellingtools.co.uk/ez-line-fine-black-2233-p.asp
>>5703339
I'm really afraid to get into scale modeling of tanks/planes because I'm really bad at painting and gluing. Are there any decent quality scale model kits that don't require either of those? Am I a pleb for wanting that?
>>5721814
>EZ line
Wew
http://www.uschivdr.com/shopping-categories/shop-rigging-and-various/
>>5721754
>>5721836
ebay. Searched 1/350 ship rigging and bought the result. Should have looked around more obviously before I bought it. Three were apparently cheaper listings that I missed.
>>5721806
doesn't work well because it's not elastic.
>>5721912
This is the same brand that MIG uses, they just give you fucking nothing for more money.
Similar to how they sell "Pigment Fixer" which is just mineral spirits in a small jar for $10.
>>5721814
>http://www.modellingtools.co.uk/ez-line-fine-black-2233-p.asp
The thing I dislike about EZ line from my experience using it is that unless you pull it to a very high tension, it tends to show too thick. It's not round, it's actually a flat piece that only appears like a thin wire when stretched to its maximum.
I don't know what thickness I was using though, it is a little too thick for ship rigging though. It is white too meaning I have to paint it which is a pain in the ass.
>>5721973
>doesn't work well because it's not elastic.
Cheap wigs are made of Nylon...
Also, human hair stretches well enough for rigging. And at roughly 0.1mm dia. is pretty perfectly in scale.
Plugging away with HB's Ju-88 C-6. For a kit with about 30 parts there as more cleaning up required than I would have thought.
>>5721813
get a boyfriend
;P
>>5722126
Nice, what scheme will you use?
>>5713331
>tfw there are no rigging diagrams
>tfw pic related is the best I have to figure out where the bloody rigging goes on the bottom
but hey, at least it's actually white(ish)
yours looks 2thick4me senpai
>Get new model
>Upper hull is twisted and the front parts are bent out of shape
Is there anyway to fix this?
>>5723190
Get a replacement part ordered.
>>5723190
Pics?
>>5722647
Like this. With a heavily weathered winter distemper.
>>5722126
>about 30 parts
It's one of those begginer kits that cost like 8-10€?
>>5722126
I can't wait for the end of the month when I can buy this little cutie.
>>5724128
What kit?
>>5724150
Tamiya 1/48 British 7 Ton Armoured car Mk.IV
>>5724128
Looks as detailed as a 1/72 kit
>>5724199
It costs just as much too
>>5723737
Preshading on that looks GORGEOUS. I wish my preshading did
Progress on my Indianapolis is going really slow. These turrets are a chore to build, and I haven't had the time to build much.
The resin parts are are lot less high quality than the instructions make them look, they're not awful, and have good detail compared to injection molds, but the pieces are so tiny and fragile. Instructions aren't the best, even though they are full color and in many cases photographs, it's hard to make out specific connection points and details due to the small print size.
Then there's the fact that the smaller bofors brass barrels don't fucking fit into the tiny ass holes in the resin, and it's so thin that you cannot bore a larger hole to make them fit properly. I've resorted to cutting off the plug of the brass barrel and just gluing it directly onto the resin, which is sloppy and hard to align properly.
>>5724860
I always fucking forget to attach the damn image.
>>5724862
This is the stuff of nightmares.
Aoshima release 1/700 HMS Hermes late in june
>>5724862
I wonder what it'll feel like to smash those tiny bits flat
>theres even more PE parts
godspeed
>>5724848
Cheers. It's a little more high contrast 'in the plastic' but it'll settle down with some weathering and varnish. I've done the starboard wing now, had a bit of a boo-boo where some thinner splattered on the wing and took it back to primer, but most of that will be covered by the yellow wing tips so it's not the end of the world.
I was a bit disappointed in the AK paints during those two spraying sessions. The first time I used them they were fine but the RLM 65 just wouldn't play nice, or maybe I was just having a bad day.
Who makes the best 1/72 F-4?
>>5705806
That X-Wing is built backwards
>>5726049
What if needs to shoot on rear targets?
Little update, done with chipping (should done it before the oil washes I think lookin at it now) and the engine area. Tomorrow mud and done
>>5724862
Wew, that's operating on another level.
>>5723737
Nice preshading
>>5725856
Revell
>>5726176
>operating
>>5726096
Doesn't matter, everyone knows Imperial Stormtroopers and their space cadet aviator counterparts can't shoot worth a damn anyway
>>5726178
I dont believe it. Anything than what I can find at a Michaels for 7 bucks?
>>5725602
Aoshima's newest waterline kits have been slightly below to on par with Fujimi's latest kits. Their old kits (reissues from the 1970s and 80s) have terrible detail, but they've really upped their game since 2000 or so.
>>5726483
>I don't believe it
Then fuck you. Use google, you little shit
