This thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resin) models kits.
-Post photos of your builds in progress and your finished builds
-Have your builds critiqued or critique others
-Discuss tips and techniques
-Ask for advice or give advice to others
Some helpful guides to get started:
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20%28Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step%29.pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com/
previous thread >>5576910
I'll bump with my mediocre models.
>>5605520
Obligatory:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m3p_VuPIS2c
What was the first model you ever put together?
How old were you?
Do you still have it?
Mine was a S.T.A.P. from The Phantom Menace when I was 9. The droid didn't last long before it fell apart. Still have the S.T.A.P. on its stand though. It's fucking awful but I like keeping it. I'll post some pictures later.
>>5605695
I remember putting together a bunch of these Jurassic Park models back when I was very young with my dad. We had velociraptors, the spitting one (Dylophosaurus?} and a bunch of others.
I can't remember if they came pre-painted or if my dad and I painted them ourselves.
In more modern times though, the first model I did when I got back into it was a shitty ass Monogram M48 I got at Michaels.
does anybody have experience with the Tamiya 1/700 Jun'yō? I was thinking about picking it up for my first ship somewhere down the line but I might pass if it's glaringly inaccurate or particularly difficult for a first ship
>>5605775
1/700 is definitely a good starting point, but I would recommend doing something smaller like destroyer or cruiser.
I've never built that kit in particular though, so I can't commend on its accuracy, but it's Tamiya so I usually trust their quality.
>>5605695
1/72 Revell F-4F Phantom II
>>5605695
an AT-ST when I was 10
I still have it, using it to test paint/airbrushes
>>5605695
It broke, so i put some cotton wool on the wing so it looked like it was being shot down.
8 or 9
No, i assume it got thrown away.
>>5605775
I haven't built that one but I've built tamiyas 1/700 Zuikaku. it was a basic tamiya kit, well detailed and trait to the point.
With that said I've built three carriers from Fujimi, HAsegawa, and Tamiya, I feel like the fujimi was the most detailed and presumably most accurate
![fujimi-038957-500x331[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/fCm3ihy.jpg "fujimi-038957-500x331[1].jpg")
Haven't built a model since I was 15.
Got pic related for Christmas and restarted building it today (been on hold since January when I lost my IRL MR2)
Got a Revell 1/48 Mosquito B Mk. IV about a third finished laying around somewhere.
After I finish these I want to get more car kits. Any recommendations on makers for the best kits? I made a bunch of those Bburago snap together kits but I want something more involved.
>>5605520
Dude...
>>5605695
Revell 1/72 Stug IV (matchbox re-release)
My dad had to help me with the multi part tracks
After that i build essentially every matchbox 1/76 and revell 1/72 tank that was available. many of them several times.
I think i was like 10-16 in those times. Then Internet hit and i focused on other things. Started building again a like 5 years ago when i was 25.
>>5605695
My first military model must of been the classic Airfix D-Day set. I used to play with the models so they aren't too intact, or painted.
I'd say my first serious (non-play) scale model was the Airfix Matilda.
>>5606540
I said they were mediocre. They're just from spare parts. I'll likely strip them and repaint.
Got my LED lightbulbs and now pictures are coming out much better, and require much less color correction.
>>5606725
The light box works excellent by the way, and it only cost me $80 to build total, including the LED light bulbs, clip-on lamps and the cardboard / tissue paper.
That said, I think I can find a better material than tissue paper to diffuse the light better, there still are some very soft and faint shadows here and there.
How often do you guys photo etched/metal parts? Got the Edelweiss and its light up radiator, but from all the pictures, the PE parts aren't much of an improvement to justify the price.
>>5606792
I don't like photoetch because it's too fiddly and time consuming
>>5605455
What is that?
>>5606792
I use it pretty often, it honestly is often incredibly over-priced for what you get though, most photo etch sets are half the price of the kit alone.
I'd say that one probably isn't worth the extra detail though, unless you want to do battle damaged side skirts or something like that.
>>5606821
>most photo etch sets are half the price of the kit alone.
Edelweiss has THREE photo etch sets, plus a lighting kit, metal shells you can buy, and a resin crew. That's 12600 yen worth of additions to a 5000 yen model. Get on that level, scrub.
>>5606833
It's that way for most things honestly. I've got a 1/32 Cyber Hobby bf-109E in the mail but I want to show off the engine, interior, etc. in full, so I spend nearly $60 for brass mg barrels, interior and exterior eduard photo etch, and a set of HGW seatbelts, only paid $35 for the kit itself. Should be worth it for all the enhanced details though.
I would have spent even more buying a resin pilot figure, but the only one I could find didn't look right for an early bf 109 pilot.
The T-72 is nearly completed.
Unfortunately I spilled the brush water all over the decals and I'm trying to make stencils for the numbers and symbols.
The T-64 kit was way better.
>>5606821
Hah! My wallet will never recover from all the money I put into add-on parts for the Sturmtiger. Must have been multiple times the price of the model itself now
>>5605775
Junyo isn't the newest Tamiya mold, but it's still a damn sight better than their oldest shit.
If you want a modern carrier mold, Aoshima's Hiryu/Soryu or Katsuragi/Amagi/Unryu are really detailed out of the box and come with tons of spare parts for Japanese ships. It'll take a bit longer to put together because it's got more parts, but it costs just about as much and you'll have better looking parts with modern molding for the AA guns etc. if you do the Junyo later.
>>5607453
Also, be aware that most 1/700 ships will look like toys without photoetch- it's just a symptom of the scale.
I'd love to get into this hobby, I specifically want to build American WWII tanks and ships and get soldiers to go with them so I can make a whole battlefield setup
Where should I start in terms of kits and paints/tools etc?
I know I'll need to practice on a dozen or so models first so that when I go about creating my masterpiece it doesn't look like complete rubbish
>>5607740
Try building some of the older tamiya models. They're dirt cheap and the quality is more than acceptable.
You should have a side cutter if possible. Also, sand paper or sanding sticks are invaluable. It's always a good idea to have a modeller's knife at hand.
You should have a small selection of brushes (flat, round, detail) in varying sizes.
Get some putty if you want.
In terms of paint, I' ve found that Vallejo's Model Color brushes on really nicely if thinned. You can't even see the brushmarks anymore.
In terms of thinner, you can just use distilled water. Alternatively, get the thinner of the paint brand you're using.
If it hasn't been emphasized yet: THIN YOUR PAINTS.
You might want to get a spray-on gloss clear coat for applying decals, and a satin or matte clear coat for a realistic finish.
So my AK xtreme metals came in the mail which I mentioned in the last thread.
I'm pretty happy with it. They aren't more durable than Alclad when sprayed over a gloss base(they miht be even less durable). But they hold on very well to bare plastic because it can go on much thicker. Because of this it doesn't show imperfections like a thin coat of Alclad will. Moreover it doesn't really loose it's luster like alclad does when it isn't sprayed over a black base.
Is it better than Alclad though? It's hard to say cause Alclad is still a very good product, and both paints can achieve great results. But AK xtreme metals are easier to use, I'd have to say if anyone here is attempting to paint their first all metal model AK xtreme is probably by a margin they way to go just because it's characteristics are so similar to many enamel paints.
>>5607463
This I've pretty much only build in 1/350 because of this. 1/700 is just way to scaled down for ships, but especially japanese Carriers which require a lot of detail underneath the runway
>>5605455
To anyone who could help a newbie out.
I really want to start building models but my hands are too shaky to be able to paint them properly. Does anyone know if there is a brand of models that do not need to be painted? Or am I suck with legos?
>>5607837
Get spray cans, like with an Airbrush it does not really matter if your hands are shaky. It's a bigger problem with brushes I guess.
Or: if you know someone that is into modelling, ask them to paint the model for you (if that isn't too much of a risk for you)
>>5607837
you could try gunpla of you wanted.
But yeah spray cans are they way to go, you can achieve some pretty good results if you start with that.
If you want pre painted models you're not really going to have the please of building them/
Ive never used micro mask before. I want to do some splatter effects with it. Can it be used over a coat of future?
>>5607837
Rest your forearm on a surface while you paint. Press down hard
Not sure if this is the right place to ask, but /tg/ sent me here
/toy/ how do i into model ship building?
Fairly decent sized models, not to game with but just to build and/or paint? anyone know of any suppliers (Preferably in the uk)
Pic releated, something like that.
>>5608107
Not sure anon. You can probably buy model ships online, maybe even wooden kits.
>>5608107
TFW I have to build a wooden victory kit for a relative.
you can get plastic kits of most ships, and you can get some wooden ones too, tho they tend to be more expensive and require some skill to put together.
>>5608107
Most places I get my stuff from in person in the UK are independent places.
Try Googling your town + model shops.
Online is obviously more convenient but having someone there to ask is invaluable when starting out.
I'd recommend starting out with other models before going into HMS Victory territory. Maybe planes then modern ships first.
Mate of mine and my brother both got an Airfix HMS Victory kit and it's a real pain to do if you're not used to plastic models and that was without either of them getting as far as the rigging.
On another note, how do I get the best gloss finish? Done three layers of thinned paint and it's still coming out matte. Should I do one or two un-thinned or just buy some clear gloss?
>>5607970
Yes, but honestly micro mask kinda sucks. Get a jar of Maskol or Mr. masking fluid instead. They dry faster than micro sol and are much easer to do chipping / splatter effects with because they peel off a whole lot easier.
Got this as a gift. It's very old and the person working on it quit along the way, so it's missing the decal sheet, but other than that it's got all the pieces intact and a few of them already assembled.
So, where could I find a replacement for the decals? If not, what color would you guys suggest? Any hints for glossy effects? How to clean the dust from almost a decade?
>>5608765
That kit is still in production. You could call Tamiya USA customer service. They run a good ship there and they might send you a free decal sheet.
>>5609008
I simply emailed Tamiya, didn't have to call them and they replaced parts from 3 kits for me without cost. Tamiya USA's customer service is really great.
Never built a model, trying to do this easy model because i own the car IRL, these things are pretty fun actually
>>5608107
If you're looking to buy a wood kit, it can be expensive and hard to do
>>5609528
Oh, just got the answer from them.
>$120,00 for a sheet
Jesus
>>5609691
maybe google image the skyline decal sheet, see if theres one in decent res, or vector it to blow it up in size then just get someone to print it off on decal paper, or do it yourself.
there are some services on ebay that do custom decals.
I bought a case for my 1:48 kv-2
its a 1:24 scale car case. it was the cheapest there was.
I couldn't find a 1:48 tank case, 1:72 was too small and 1:35 was too big.
im going to need to secure it in also, I fear just gluing the tracks down may not be enough.
>>5606817
Airfix Boulton-Paul Defiant in 1:72 scale
>>5609773
Fits almost perfectly. Perhaps you could turn the inside into a diorama? Straight snow or grass is a breeze to implement and would make it look great in my opinion. Chuck in a shrub, some infantry and tracks in the snow/mud and you got yourself a little KV-2 Biobox
>>5609897
I don't think I want to put that much effort into it for my first model. (getting back into it)
A good diorama takes a lot of skills to be developed. you need to have done a couple to be decent at it.
when this is done ill probably put it on ebay just to get some money back to buy something else.
but I totally agree you could fit a bit more in the case.
>>5609773
How much was it?
>>5606725
That's a really good looking P-51, the finish is nice and clean and everything on it just looks top notch. Well done dude.
>>5605695
My first model was a Revell 1/100 Snaptite F-15C Eagle, the one that came with the stickers for 318 FIS markings on the tail.
I was about seven or eight.
Still got it, although later in elementary school I repainted it to be green and gave it West German markings. Called it the F-15 Alder because I was a wehraboo kid.
>>5609964
it cost me £5.95 + £2.95 postage
its a triple 9 brand display case.
1:24th size
Internal size approx. 23cm long x 9.5cm wide x 8cm high
the 1:43 one was too small. being
14.5cm long x 7cm wide x 5.5cm high
the kv2 is atleast 6" long, you would ideally want an inch space on each size.
I don't know if theres anything more suited to 1:48 tanks out there.
but im on a budget
>>5605695
A scale 1:144 Airbus A319
Ive still got it. I was 11
>>5606970
Is that the revell 1:72 T72M1?
>>5609773
for securing it:
You could try drilling a hole in both the tank and the bottom of the box, and putting a screw thorugh. The question is if you want something like that to "screw" up the bottom of your tank.
>>5610506
Ayyyyy
Well guys, I masked a model with tape for the first time, then threw on some micromask for chipping, and also did the best canopy job Ive ever done.
Just got done throwing on a clearcoat. Ill do decals next, another clearcoat, and throw some oil in the panel lines. This is coming out really good
>>5610745
why black?
>>5611494
Its not
>>5610386
Modelcollect T-72A.
The wheels on the Revell one are bettter, but the plastic on this one is harder.
Currently working on the Hl230 P45 engine. Does anyone know how these were painted? I'm tempted to paint it satin black with white air filters.
>>5611592
I fondly remeber building the revell T72, that was a fantastic kit, So was the T90 and T90A.
Ive yet to try the T80s though, they are next on my list.
>>5611848
>Ive yet to try the T80s though, they are next on my list.
Don't.
Its reboxed matchbox shit from the 1980s.
Even their T-72M1 kit from 2006 has problems.
>>5611848
The T-80 kit is so bad.
Nothing really fits together well.
is wonderland models a good site to buy from or are the others with better prices?
should i just use amazon instead?
>>5611848
Forgot to add: it is not 1/72 ether, more like 1/76 which was Matchbox' forte
>>5611859
>>5611889
>>5611926
Well shit guys.
Are all their T80s like that? Even the T80BV, Ive got an urge to slap ERA blocks onto anything and everything.
>>5611951
The BV kit is the same, but with an extra sprue for the ERA, they don't even have mounting points for it.
If you got the urge and you want soviet stuff, the only option is Modelcollect for the moment.
I wish Zvezda released stuff more often, because the 72nd scale T-90 kit was beautiful.
>>5611975
Have you built the Revell T90/T90A kit? That was really good, how can the Zvezda one possibly be better?
>>5612032
I've got a T-90 from Revell and a T-90A from Zvezda.
The Zvezda kit has very crisp details with almost no moulding lines/ejector blobs.
The Revell kit is good, but not as good.
>>5612032
Forgot the downsides (d'oh):
Tracks should be chopped up and be made as link-and-length, because they will break the idler mount if you try to make them fit following the instructions. Here I didn't attach them thoroughly and there is a nasty gap on the bottom.
And there is the issue of sink marks on the searchlights.
>>5612037
I lost the instructions to my zvezda 1/72 T-90A.
Is there a place where I can find photos of them so I can finish my model?
>>5612049
To be fair though, Ive yet to make a model where the tracks and top notch. The revell 1:72 scale tanks are the only tanks I have experience in in that scale and its hit and miss. Their Tiger 1 tracks are absolute shite, but their PzIV Ausf H tracks are great. The T72/90/90A tracks are decent too.
Ive built a few trumpeter kits in 1:35, all the tracks were plastic and had to be made individually, turned out shit, but could have been me.
The next time I get a tracked vehicle in 1:35, Ill see if I can order rubber or metal tracks separately.
>>5612067
There is a database for the Revell instructions, but I don't know if there is one for Zvezda ones.
http://www.hobbycult.com/product_info.php?cPath=53_71&products_id=46683&osCsid=8caabeb7403a89aef4fb42472d88a3c0
>>5612071
The revell panzer IV was my first tank where I managed to make the tracks fit perfectly.
I am not a fan of rubber tracks and I don't feel like wasting 20-ish euros on metal tracks.
>>5612091
I always see 1:35 models as a bigger investment because they use much more paint, glue space and usually cost a good 15 quid more. Im not too bothered spashing out on some fancy metal tracks, and considering most of my tonks are 1:72, its not a big deal.
>>5612091
thanks alot, now i can start building it.
What is some good Henschel Hs 129 model kit that is still produced?
>>5611806
Probably a dark steel color weathered with some black and rust pigments would work. I think the fans and whatnot were a dark red anti-oxidant color though, I'm not certain.
>>5612132
I've built one, a Hasegawa 1:48 a few years ago. Decent kit overall, but the cockpit is extremely bare, not that you can see much of it once built anyways.
>>5612367
If I remember I did the camouflage with Maskol... worst idea ever though, it was a pain in the ass to remove.
>>5608131
i love when anons say TFW and then proceed to post no fucking face
Anyone familiar with ding-hao? I want to build a vehicle with an open top, the type 64 looks pretty cute.
Also whats a good way to realistically paint olive drab? I see some people's vehicles with some sort of shading on the edges I don't know how to replicate.
>>5612624
I have actually never heard of Dung Hao before. Can't speak for their quality.
Anyways, that model looks like it has some post shading, otherwise known as "color modulation."
It's basically if they took the olive drab base color and put a few drops of white paint, then airbrushed it over the edges and center of some panels. It shouldn't be glaringly obvious that you did this either, make sure not to over-do it and be very subtle.
Doing the same for drybrushing would highlight some of the edges. Take the olive drab color, add a very small amount of white, and then using an old, stuff brush dip it in the paint. Then wipe off as much paint as possible with a paper towel as you can, until it doesn't streak anymore, then just dry brush over the raised details.
I've found that Enamels dry brush best due to the properties of enamel paints, mainly that they dry slower. You could then drybrush a darker burnt umber color in some spots to stimulate heavier wear and chipping.
>>5612644
They actually seem to have some pretty neat looking kits, of models that haven't been done before.
>>5612658
Stuart with a pak mounted on it... very strange.
I read up on the company and apparently they are owned by AFV Club, so I expect their models to be pretty decent and well molded, though expect to clean up flash and whatnot.
>>5612671
Clean up flash?
>>5612673
I've built a few AFV club kits in the past, and sometimes the molds have a bit of flash from the injection molding process on them, basically little flat, thin pieces of plastic around the edges you have to trim off, but it's not a big deal really.
>>5612679
Oh that, yeah I gotcha. I was just thinking today though, how world of tanks and Italeri started releasing world of tanks brand models.
They're releasing fairly common tanks, like the M4, Tiger and T55. But why not release some of the neat prototypes that world of tanks has. Naturally this would be expensive to make but it would still be pretty cool.
>>5612682
I second this. I'd love to build a JgPz E100 or the Rhm.B. Waffenträger.
So what are you guys working on?
Currently halfway through weathering pic related
>>5612950
One of the tracks is on the wrong way round :P
>>5612950
Still working on the Sturmtiger.
The interior is basically finished now, after finishing the engine I'm going to add dust and dirt and then the Rockets.
Would anyone be nice enough to tell me which mud mixtures/ colors to use? I am new to the dirt department as well as interior weathering.
>>5612950
Still working on the Hetzer. Still have to complete all the small bits.
>>5612620
That's because its
TFW THAT FEEL WHEN
not
MFW MY FACE WHEN
>>5612950
tamiya t55 enigma. Turning it into some take-it-ez kinda crew's camping wagon in east europe.
Been on and off building it for about a year soon because modelling is not my primary hobby
>>5613148
I need to soon start shitting out money, which I don't have, for pigments.
![weathering-set-[3]-375-p[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/xPqJRPp.jpg "weathering-set-[3]-375-p[1].jpg")
>>5613149
I recently some pigments.
alclad now do some and theyre the cheapest
I got 3 + the fixer for £10
now you don't even have to use the fixer, watered down pva works fine.
then revel do a little set of 6, that gets you some more, and that's only £8 pic related.
you can also mix them together to fill gaps.
>>5613173
Thanks, might get that kit!
That is dirt cheap.
>>5613044
just dont use black ;)
>>5607826
At Home Depot, there's a set with cutters (Xuron clones) and some really nice needle-nose pliers for about 13 dollars. You can get really good files at a beauty supplier or Christmas Tree Shop for about a dollar each. Get an X-acto knife and plenty of blades. Don't use dull blades. A surgical scalpel also works really well. Get some decent tweezers (meritline.com often has nice ones for real cheap.) Get a pair of small scissors. I also recommend a small metal ruler or straightedge or triangles. You'll use those a lot.
My first model (in 1986) was a Snap-Tite 1/72 F-4E. First glued model was a 1/12 1967 Corvette. I almost bought the 'Vette again at a show a couple weeks ago, but my nostalgia wasn't worth 70 dollars.
>>5613082
Tfw someone doesn't know what tfw means
>>5613288
learn to meme faggot.
http://knowyourmeme.com/memes/tfw-no-gf
>>5613288
Are you retarded or something?
>>5612950
I always thought that Tamiya hull red was for ships, but now I know it's red oxide.
>>5613336
Only part-time.
Added some wiring to the engine.
>>5613341
you reminded me that i need to get some paper panzers.
Really glad how the log turned out.
Can't figure out the lighting tho.
Anyone have nice schemes to make the tank not boring?
>>5613984
>>5613989
>>5613993
>>5613997
>>5613984
Giving it a wash and using some chipping and weathering techniques will help.
>>5614126
Can a wash be made from the tamyia paints, because this is the only colour-related thing I have and I'm unable to get anything next month or two due to my financial situation.
>>5614236
A wash is essentially just watered down paint. there are plenty of guides.
http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/tools_techniques_and_reference_materials/f/18/p/92338/903085.aspx
>>5613949
It was one of the competing designs which ultimately became the panther. It wasnt accepted because it was feared it couldn't be distinguished from T34s and friendly fire was going to be rampant.
Porsche designs got shafted alot during the war because they tried to innovate too much or too little.
I think I got the consistency of the paint just right with this one. Happy with the way it turned out but got another 5 more coats to not fuck up on.
>>5612950
Cyber Hobby bf-109E I got off [spoiler]Reddit[/spoiler]. I got a HGW seatbelt set, Eduard photo etch, Aber brass MG barrels and a photo etch instrument panel that I'm still waiting on.
>>5613080
Looks great anon, really nice paint job on that, and I love the subtle weathering.
>>5613044
Slow progress, but its looking good man.
>>5613148
interesting, what color are you going to paint it? I like all the scratch built stuff you added on.
>>5613341
I recognize that tank vaguely, what kit is that? Looks like a Puma turret on some mini panther tank chassis?
>>5614963
It's the Vk3002, paper prototype which lost to the Henschel panther design
>>5612950
still my Nakajima Gekko
pics in the next few days
>>5614963
That's one hell of a clean workspace.
Man, sometimes I sure want a room just for modelling
I'm looking to buy selves for my model paints
any suggestions?
>>5615300
/diy/ it with plywood or something
So I did panel lines and some oil washes for the first time. Its amazing the things oil can do.
Just got done hitting it with a clear flat so I guess Im done.
>>5614963
are you diving into another messershmitt?
>>5615533
I didn't plan on it, but I got a good deal on the kit from someone selling it on Reddit. It's a really nice kit though, probably the best bf 109 I've seen in 1/32, even better than Eduard's kit aside from surface detail, which Eduard wins because it has full rivet detail.
>>5615280
I pretty much do at this point, but not just modelling, gaming, tv, etc.
>>5615300
Shelves? pic related, I built the ones in >>5614963
myself from pine wood I got at lowes. Cost about $150 total to make two of them. You can either DIY, or you can buy custom made shelves that are a lot more expensive. There's also cheaper alternatives though, such as a nail polish rack (just search that on amazon, there's plenty of them).
http://www.amazon.com/Home--Acrylic-Counter-Display-Bottles/dp/B00GBCPM6I/
Though I'm not sure what the width of each shelf is, so you might want to find out and make sure you can fir larger paint jars like Tamiya on them first.
Almost done with this pain in the ass tank. The Magach 6B Gal Batash looks so nice though, gonna remove the outside guns and begin priming once my paints come in the mail
>>5606833
Didn't it also have the metal barrel add-on?
I'm putting off building my Edelweiiss because of the ridiculous paint scheme. Glad to see someone else actually has one, such a fantastic sci-fi? tank.
>>5616107
Not gonna add the anti-slip? How's the kit? Is it good. These Israeli M60s look interesting.
>>5605655
>>5617375
>>5617375
this has to be a joke
or a kid made this
Why don't they just sell paints pre-thinned?
>>5617430
>vallejo air
>>5617430
sometimes you need a variation in how thin you want it.
Many paints - Tamiya acrylic for example can use more than one type of solvents; such as alcohol base solvents which are easy to use and touch dry faster versus Lacquer solvents that give a harder and smoother finish
>>5617430
They do.
>>5614963
>>>5613148 (You)
>interesting, what color are you going to paint it? I like all the scratch built stuff you added on.
Propably gonna be in pro ukraine fighters colors(flat green) and maybe some white parade trim here and there. Where I chip maybe have khaki show through. Not much of an idea yet. And thanks, means a lot
>>5617430
Thinners usually mess with the paint, thinners are volatile and evaporate easily as well. The paint that comes in your bottle is specifically formulated to last a long time, adding thinner would screw up the formula.
Some thinners, such as mineral spirits for example, react chemically with oils and enamel paints over time, causing them to turn into a solid gel (I've seen this happen to enamels that may have just been exposed to a tiny amount of mineral spirits through a paintbrush).
Also, the amount of thinning of your paint really depends on what type of airbrushing you're doing. Sometimes you want a really thin paint for transparency and weathering. Sometimes you want just a normal consistency for a solid color.
>>5617453
>implying
Vallejo Air still needs to be thinned by about 20%. It's completely pointless.
>>5617783
>Thinners usually mess with the paint, thinners are volatile and evaporate easily as well.
Acrylic paint and acrylic thinners are a thing though.
>>5617796
I sprayed it straight outta the bottle and it was so good
>>5617796
I use those paints mainly and that's not completely true. Certain colours don't spray well though. (without thinning)
Not too sure on this scheme
>>5617925
Looks great
>>5617934
(No it doesnt)
>>5617925
>anything but Dunkelgrau
>>5617925
It's a project tank, so no one will give an actual fuck which scheme you use. Although if I may suggest something, paint spots on it like the ambush camo scheme.
>>5617968
If it comes to german camo, broad stipes across the whole vehicle is my favorite pattern.
So yeah, this looks great in my opinion.
>>5618049
This is the only right way to paint it. My opinion is fact. Your opinion is shit.
>>5618110
Nope:3
>>5618133
NO. Only Dunkelgrau
>>5612950
Just finished my Fujimi 1/700 Atago so next in line is a Yamashiro. Gotta build a whole fleet.
>>5618049
Cheers man.
I think my problem with it is that the bands are too large, but it's growing on me. The wheels haven't been touched up yet
Also please excuse my grainy and unsized phone pictures.
>>5618252
It'll look great with the right weathering.
I wonder if a filter would improve the look.
If it seems too monotone for you, it's worth a shot to alter the tone of the colors with oil paints.
>>5618162
Looks great, post more pics.
>>5618583
Thanks. One of the things I have to learn is how to do some proper rigging though.
>>5619151
You also need to learn how to lighting
>>5619151
There's stuff called E-Z line which I've used with good results. I've also heard someone recommend using fly-fishing wire, like extremely fine fly fishing wire.
Stretched sprue works too, but it's incredibly fragile.
>>5619184
But then all the shitty details will be too obvious.
>>5619192
I've used spruce that I heated and streched on my ships but like you said it's really fragile and hard to get as thin as I'd like. I don't know how to connect spruces to each other either since regular glue just melts them in two.
>>5619307
Try out the EZ line, you can get it on ebay. It stretches and won't break, it's pretty damn awesome honestly, though get a black or grey colored line though, as its difficult to paint since it stretches.
![a.mig-8016[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/u8N7zi7.jpg "a.mig-8016[1].jpg")
>>5619192
>>5619335
not him but I have some stuff to rig. EZ line is quite expensive. ive been looking at other stuff.
in my emails today I got something about AMMO doing rigging, black stretchy in 3 sizes.
and paintable I think it says.
things I have to do are a lot bigger tho, and need black and natural.
>>5619730
I just noticed it says uschii on the package so its probably just that.
http://www.uschivdr.com/products-in-detail/rigging/
>>5619730
>>5619736
>AMMO
>2m for 4.50 yuros
>2.25 yuro/m
>Uschii
>45m for 10.50 yuros
>0.24 yuro/m
>>5619808
While this is true, you will never need the whole 45m and shipping costs are a thing to consider too.
Ordering some stuff from Ammo to spread the cost between a few products is possible. With Uschi its a bit more difficult to fill the shopping basket (at least for me).
>>5619814
>implying other stuff from Ammo is not similarly overpriced
>>5619829
Their regular paint is priced just fine. 2,30€ for a bottle, compared to 2,75€ of Vallejo model color/model color air for example. Both are 17ml. (Probably both are available on ebay for a little less but these are the prices in a regular german online store)
And keep in mind that Ammo paint bottles already have little steel balls inside, so you don't have to buy these extra like with Vallejo.
So yeah, i don't think Ammo is overly expensive.
>>5619808
ez line is 100 foot
cheapest price is £12 + 1.50 postage
15.23 Euro
>>5619867
so that's what. 30m for 15 + euros.
who jew now
Are Uschi rigging wires black? Has anyone here used them? Are they better than EZ line?
My defiant is now joined by another 1/72 RAF airplane, albeit in IAF markings
Airfix Spitfire Mk.IXc, Israel, 1948
>>5620438
Leftover decals from a 1/72 Avia S.199 that I kit based out of an old KP kit and Airfix's Bf-109G-6 (awfully inaccurate kit), the tail stripes were painted by hand because I'm a poor college student living on campus and I had to choose between starving and a decal sheet for Israeli/Egyptian Spitfires
>>5620457
Thanks! Yeah, those were S.199s, basically Bf-109G-10s with a Junkers Jumo instead of a DB.601. I kitbashed this one out of KP and Airfix kits.
>>5620538
Yeah, I watched a documentary about the early days of the IAF and all the pilots said how much they hated the S.199 because it was so hard to take off, and it just performed so shitty due to the engine.
>>5620446
If you had to choose between starving and a decal sheet, I'd take the decal sheet everytime
I bought some decal paper so I can print shit I need.
>>5621191
true, perhaps starving is the only way to get around freshman fifteen
Hasegawa F-16A that someone started and then broke. Donated to my local model club, I picked it up and fixed it to look presentable-ish. Still missing some bits and pieces but it's better than it was before.
>>5621360
That is exactly why I avoid Hasegawa 1:72
All done. Please love me.
>>5621670
I think it depends on the model. Revell's 1/72 F-16 is worlds better but Hasegawa's line of 1/72 IJA/IJN aircraft still holds up well and is attractively priced.
>>5621903
Too dark
Hi guys. I was thinking of picking up the modeling hobby myself, over the summer. Any tips for a beginner? Beginner supplies and tools? Maybe some model brands I could practice on.
Don't want to shell out on the top of the line kit on a hobby I haven't even tried yet.
I appreciate any advice. Thank you.
>>5621964
Maybe we should start here:
What kind of models do you want to build? Tanks? Cars? Planes? Ships? Something else entirely?
To get a basic kit together you need to get fine sanding paper, a small side cutter and plastic glue. Thats the very basic stuff.
>>5621975
My goal is to work on fancy sifi stuff. Space ships mostly. My main concern is If I should get an airbrush? or just start with brushes. At least for my first model. Then I'd buy a cheap airbrush kit if I want to pursue the hobby more. Does that Sound reasonable? Or do I have to spend out all at once?
>>5621988
You can start with brushes just fine. It won't be perfect (your first airbrush painted kit won't be perfect either) but it works.
>>5621988
just don't get a chinese brush
>>5621988
I bought a harbor freight airbrush for 80 bucks and its done me very well. If you see star wars stuff posted its probably me.
They should have used this turret.
>>5622120
Why?
Its weaker armored, smaller and couldn't carry the 7,5cm/L70 gun.
>>5622120
That turret looks like shit. Turret the Panther got is way better.
>>5622153
When will you not have shit taste?
>>5622068
I'll have to check that out.
I'll post when I finish my first model. Probably wont look as good as yours but I'll take my time with it and try to learn.
Just got my Edelweiss kit in the mail. Damn, some love went into making that kit. The instruction manual for it is even modeled after the chapter book in the game and the first page has a bunch of in-universe statistics for the tank. Very impressed, and I haven't even started assembling it.
>>5622153
Its not. See the muzzle brake. Its the L43 version.
>>5622161
Ok nigger
>But wait, that panzer 4 gun has a 2 chamber muzzle brake.
>I didn't know they put the l/70 on the panzer 4
>>5622156
Just because it isn't in panzer grey is no reason to be salty anon
>>5622161
Look at the length of that gun. Does it really look like the L43 gun to you?
>>5622173
L48 is a thing mate.
>>5622177
>But as the planned L/70 75 mm gun was much longer and heavier than the T-34's, mounting it in the Daimler-Benz turret was difficult. Plans to reduce the turret crew to two men to stem this problem were eventually dropped.
Directly from wikipedia. If the model uses the L70 barrel with L43 then the model is shit but that won't change the fact that this turret is inferior because it couldn't mount the L70 gun in reality.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panther_tank
>>5622182
I know that gun is the l/48, but saying that it can't be the l/70 because if the old style muzzle brake design was what I was pointing out.
Also, I searched for your quote and can't find it in the source you provided. The turret was designed around the specification of using the l/70, and all the pictures and mock ups from that time show that turret with that gun.
>>5622216
>The turret was designed around the specification of using the l/70,
It actually wasn't and this was the reason the MAN prototype was approved. Because it could use already existing turrets while the Daimler version required a new turret.
https://books.google.de/books?id=wKN2BQAAQBAJ&pg=PA38&lpg=PA38&dq=he+DB+turret+was+smaller+than+that+of+the+MAN+design+and+had+a+smaller+turret+ring,+which+was+the+result+of+the+narrower+hull+required+by+the+leaf+spring+suspension+which+lay+outside+of+hull.&source=bl&ots=aka82YF48v&sig=nJOJ0krtM_BAr0dN9pxJT-rPIqo&hl=de&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjFtq2h4aDMAhVLiCwKHZgaAnEQ6AEIHTAA#v=onepage&q=he%20DB%20turret%20was%20smaller%20than%20that%20of%20the%20MAN%20design%20and%20had%20a%20smaller%20turret%20ring%2C%20which%20was%20the%20result%20of%20the%20narrower%20hull%20required%20by%20the%20leaf%20spring%20suspension%20which%20lay%20outside%20of%20hull.&f=false
>>5622216
>and all the pictures and mock ups from that time show
Can you provide a link?
uh oh, its autists argue time.
Personally I like the Consolidated B-24 Liberator.
>>5622269
discussions about history are fun [spoiler]and serious business[/spoiler]
>>5622246
Show you backlogs, guys!
>>5621988
going on this, What brush brands do you guys recommend? I've heard the Tamiya ones are pretty good.
>>5622558
Admitting there is a problem is the first step to solving it, anon.
How's my panzer 4 look? Seems somewhat boring to me.
My M103. Its changed a little bit since this picture, unfortunately I dropped it and its M2 broke off as well as the antennae. Some one suggested that its too glossy and reflective of light, how do I fix this? I was thinking about stripping all the paint off (already repainted the tracks) and re painting it. Your thoughts, /toy/?
>>5623044
Are you sure its upside down? Its actually not glued but screwed in place as the model is actually remote controlled.
As far as the M103 goes it just looks weird, I don't think the lighting helps the picture but I'm going to at least give it a wash, and touch it up a bit as well as remove the number decals. I just cant tell if the paint is on too thick or not, but the vehicle has retained its cast texture and small details well.
>>5623063
Outdoor lighting can really ad a weird look to the pictures, plus I also think its the angle I'm taking the photos.
>>5622558
wow
This was starting to happen to me so I have a strict built one than buy one rule
>>5623034
Whats up with the idler wheel?
>>5623265
Its actually a 1/35 RC and the idler wheel is adjustable it might've just come loose or deliberately set it like that to adjust the track tension at the time. I can't remember.
>>5622558
How does that even happen? Dont you guys just buy one or 2 at a time, build them and then give yourself a break?
>>5623400
no.
>>5623400
I buy those that I like and also those that are not always readily available. As long as there's space inside the drawer under my bed, It's okay for me to buy more stuff.
My latest finished piece.
1/48 Hasegawa F-18. Scratchbuilt fold up wings, Eduard ordnance and resin tanks. Painted and weathered using AK/ammo products.
>>5623640
Those are some fuck huge remove before flight tags, are you sure theyre in scale?
>>5623716
Absolutely.
>>5623640
Really nice work anon. Post more pictures!
>>5622558
Here's my modest backlog. A lot of the kits I've already started working on / stopped even after doing some painting to work on something else. About 5 of the larger boxes (Zoukei Mura ones, the Zoids ones) are just empty boxes that I use to store older models in though.
>>5623400
>Working on a kit
>Need some bullshit supplies from local hobby shop
>Hobby shop got in a bunch of new kits, some of which I really want
>Buy the new kits, say I'll finish building the thing I'm working on then start on the new kits
>Progress goes really slow on the kit I'm working on, the new kits look great so I decide instead to put kit I was working on away and start on the new one
Rinse and repeat. That said my backlog isn't that extensive and I have been trying to go through some of my older kits and finish them.
>>5621903
>>5621931
needs snow
>>5623870
Why are all the Dragon Tiger kits so ridiculously expensive? The cheapest one of any of their kits I can find is at least $70 but it's not what I want, I want to do a mid or late Tiger with Zimmermit but those are going for the low starting price of $100 AUD inc. shipping. Same problem when looking for a good Panther A or G kit.
>pic unrelated
R8 my backlog
>>5624277
jesus my neck
Meng Pzh2000, Finemolds Porco Rosso kits, Hasegawa VF-11, Tamiya Cromwell
pretty decent stuff you've got there anon
>>5624277
Some of those kits are really old and shitty, but the Meng kit is really a nice one, you should build that.
>remember the Revell Mosquito 1/48 kit I got a few years ago
>go to work on it some more while I wait for paints to get here
>got to around step 12 going by what's missing from the sprue
>whatever progress I made has been lost
Bummed me out.
>>5623890
>AFV club centurion
Send help. This thing is nubby hell
>>5624584
Hah, funny that you mention it, that's one of the reasons I stopped working on it. AFV clubs molds are pretty shitty honestly, FAR from the worst, but some of the connection points on the sprue for tiny ass pieces are simply awful, and I always wind up having to clean up a lot of flash.
I think it has mostly to due with the quality of the plastic they use though. It just seems pretty cheap. They also focus way too much on having to stick on tiny ass little things that should be molded onto the plastic itself.
Began to prime my Magach 6B Gal Batash today, good progress so far.
>>5623931
>AUD
I feel you. Get the new rye field model. Might not be late war, but it's a superior tiger for less than 100
>>5624658
Where to buy 23ml bottles of Tamiya paint?
>>5624599
Their Valentines and Churchills are sooooo good though.
Like seriously those series are some Meng tier shit. I haven't built anything else from them though.
Alright, here we go, posting my shitty builds.
First, there's my collection of 1/700 ships, consisting of Barham, Warspite, Prince of Wales and Kongo.
1/2
Please no bully, but feedback is always welcome.
>>5625075
2/2
Anyone want to see my tanks or planes?
Please post shittier builds than mine, I want to feel better about myself.
