TLR thread
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Anyone have any TLR experience? I'm thinking of buying a Yashica Mat EM, fairly cheap and easy to operate
>>2701029
how cheap?
>>2701030
Quick eBay search gives me refurbished ones for about 200 dollars. When I say cheap I mean relative to nice Rolleiflex cameras
MAT-124G
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You could get one of these for about $250
>>2701074
Yeah, have you considered going HOMO?
Only $250
>>2701076
Is that an offer?
>>2701080
sure come on over
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>>2701029
I got a mint yashica mat (without meter without battery without anything) on eBay for 70.
It works fine tho it must have not been shot for the last 20 years because that's how old the film in it was.
Its nice for shooting architecture or stuff like that.
In the only potraits I took so far I overcompensated the parallax.
If you think going into it (even for 250) is cheap then definitely try it OP
>>2701029
Yes, go for it they are a lot of fun to use, I suggest a Yashica Mat 124G I have it and its very sharp throughout but sharpest at f/8-f/16. I have gotten 40-50MP scans that hold up at a 100% (w/ Nikon 9000)
The Yashica Mat can be found in mint condition for $250 pretty easily, if not less than that. Mine Evan got hit by a wave this summer when I was in Maine and nothing got damaged I kept shooting with it and all rolls after that looked normal.
>>2701029
>gold lizard rollei
>mounted backwards on a plastic garbage pan/tilt tripod
7/10 made me wat
>>2701098
thought the same thing.
that tripod is shit OP
>>2701086
Do you use a handheld meter with that
This may sound odd, but if you're getting into this TLR business I recommend getting one without a light meter (not having to worry about batteries is strangely liberating) and then getting yourself a hand held light meter. At first it's very slow. Using a TLR will slow you down, and using a light meter slows you even more, but it will seriously develop your sense of lighting and composition.
Once you go through a few rolls, you'll be able to operate your camera quickly and with ease. You'll also have a pretty decent intuition about light and most of the time won't even need to meter it. The trouble of taking out your meter and getting a reading encourages this. It also helps that negative film is very forgiving with exposure.
It really simplifies the mechanics of taking a photograph while at the same time sharpening your skills.
>>2701113
most of the times yes, when im not sure about exposure. or just my phone with an app, wich works surprisingly well
about 10 year shooting with tlr snow, first lubitel166(pre lomo, 15$, fairly decent for the price!) Yaschimat a,c ,and 124G. I love them, no meter, only black and weight, street, architecture and portraits. Thy're sturdy and se\xy (just like myself).
>>2701147
Actually the reason I was looking at the Mat EM is because it's a selenium meter with no battery.. Do you have any recommendations on cameras/meters to use?
>>2701266
I shoot with a Minolta Autocord and I love it. I think it's a very under appreciated camera. I've heard really good things about the Yashica Mats too and was looking into getting one of those before settling on the Minolta. They're mostly all around the same price and I'm sure you'll get comparable results, I'd just read up on them and see which one looks like it would suit your needs and preferences. I have a thread up right now, the one with the cactus in the OP if you want to check out some pics taken with an Autocord.
As for meters, I got a Sekonic Studio Deluxe iii, which I also love. It's analog and selenium, so it fits nicely with the theme, but I payed more for it than I did for the camera. Looking back, I'd probably pick up an old Weston meter or something off ebay for cheap as I hear that most of them still work flawlessly. There was really no reason for me to get a brand new $200 Sekonic.
Non-metered cameras are generally cheaper and easier to find, and when you're forced to take separate readings it really makes you study light more closely. At least it did for me.
lemme ask here: when mf has a crop factor of 0.5 in respect to ff, that means also that a lens on mf is on stop brighter than a lens with same aperture ratio for ff, right? So a 2.8mf is as bright as a 2.0ff?
>>2701700
Go troll somewhere else retard.
>>2701718
Focal ratio, iso and shutter speed do not change, you just get a bigger negative.
>>2701723
ok ...
but, why are they all then saying that the TOTAL amount of light decreases on smaller films/sensors? what does that mean if not that the picture gets darker?
>>2701739
Larger photo sites can be more efficient but this is more about less noise at higher iso settings.
>>2701771
If they made a sensor twice as efficient then they'd have to call 200iso 100iso.
>International Organization for Standardization (ISO)
TLR
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Love my Flexaret, and agree with the other anon saying you should get one without a light meter.
The slowness is what makes it great to shoot with.
My first year with my Flexaret I just used the sunny 16 rule and almost never had any issues, pic related.
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>>2701981
Dats nice anon.
Yashica Mat124G is awesome. I highly recommend cleaning the taking lens. It is super easy and may really really increase the sharpness.
This is superia400
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q1ed
Also it is small, light and has a built in light meter. Perfect for travelling.
This is velvia100.
>>2702020
But you promised it would be sharp.
>>2702037
Sorry. :(
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Owned a Mamiya C220 and C330. Fantastic camera.
I would own a TLR again if it would shoot 35mm. My only options are the Blackbird Fly and fuckin holga bullshit.
I mean, there's the Contaflex too, but fuck that thing is ugly. And adapters for other TLR's, but nothing designed for 35mm.
>>2702111
>nothing designed for 35mm
Dunno about western stuff (which also had these) but all Flexarets had dedicated 35mm adaptors, film masks and ground glass masks and attachable viewfinders for that schniz.
I'm pretty sure every other major/long-lived tlr brand had something similar.
pic sauce&additional info:http://www.hmw-foto.at/flexaret/adapter.shtm
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>>2702273
I have an adapter like that for my Pentax 6x7. It works ok but rewinding the film on some cameras (like mine) can be a chore.
>>2701266
Selenium meters degrade with age. its a chemical degradation, you can't stop or reverse it. why they stopped making them and went to battery models in the 60's.
Otherwise we would still be using no-battery meters if we had the choice.
Seriously, no selenium meter has been made in the last probably 40 years, and they degrade within 25 or so. some will still respond to light even today, but are not at all accurate or usable. most, however, won't even wake up now under any light conditions.
use sunny 16 or get a handheld meter. no newb ever believes us about selenium not being magic, and always thinks theirs will be the one that somehow still works, so you will just have to try it yourself. in a year you will be fruitlessly giving this advice to another newb who will surely ignore you, too!
>>2703035
You're a butthole. Don't post lies anon.
>Selenium meters degrade with age. its a chemical degradation, you can't stop or reverse it.
Correct.
>why they stopped making them and went to battery models in the 60's.
Bullshit. They made them up till the 80ies when silicon cells became widespread, first of all. Secondly, "battery models" aka CdS photoresistive diodes were just a few (3-4?) orders of magnitude more sensitive to light changes than selenium cells would ever be and let you take readings in low light conditions where Se cells'd long stop indicating anything. Nothing to do with their longevity, just inferior tech.
>some will still respond to light even today, but are not at all accurate or usable.
Again, bullshit. The degradation lowers light sensitivity, sure, but in a proportional (logarythmic rather, as far as details go) manner. Meaning, if you compensate by the x stops it's degraded by, they still work fine.
Admittedly, working fine for a very narrow set of lighting conditions is still useless.
Everything else you said is true and an old CdS lightmeter (look for ones made for modern 1,5V batteries (3/4.5 etc), unless equipped with basic google skills, a soldering iron and the intelligence and patience of a piece of damp toast avoid the 1.35V mercury battery-powered older ones) will last you forever and work in all imaginable lighting conditions you'll ever be in. Hoping selenium meters on old old rolleis still working might leave you disappointed. Even if it's entirely possible (and is done on a professional financially-fuelled basis) to repair/rejuvenate them by replacing the old cell to have a working meter again.
Sidenote, built-in non-TTL (through the lens) camera meters are always shit because they give you an average reading of the entire scene unless you literally hold them a feet away from something. Which is incredibly bad as you'll learn. CdS meters have a narrow field of view, some are even spot meters.
>>2702111
I've totally seen a TLR that shot 35mm. Had lines on the focusing screen too. Only shot portrait. Think it was a yashica, maybe.
>>2703035
I actually have one that still works fine. There were, and may still be, places that could fix selenium meters, too. You still have the choice.
Selenium works like shit in low light. Later TTL meters could take a mercury battery and work for years, be much smaller, and more sensitive. That's the reason Selenium was ditched.
>>2702273
I think he meant 35mm tlrs, not 120 tlrs with 35mm adapters.
Anyone ever worked with one of these?
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>>2701029
to love-ru?
>>2704229
tony northrup did a video i think
>>2704231
shit girl desu
I have a Rolleicord III that I use sometimes. Does not deliver the same sharpness as the Kiev I used to own but it's cheap and just works. Should probably get it CLA or at least attempt to clean the lens a bit...
I've had some light meters that really behave sporadically, I'd get one without and shoot sunny 16. If you get with large latitude like for example Portra 400 or 160, it's hard to mess it up.
>>2701074
Nigga you can get these for fifty bucks on ebay. I love mine so far
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>>2706188
what?
are you a nanafag?
>>2706762
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/594707-REG/Lomography_580_Lubitel_166_35mm_Medium.html
>glass lens
>>2706781
Yami best grill your a fgt
>>2706847
>f4.5 taking lens
>1/125 max shutter speed
Wait, what, how can this be a downgrade of the original L166s. Literally how. It's like if Lomography sold stones they'd be somehow brittle and water-soluble while sporting the x20 price tag. Bloody hell.
>>2706762
Nigga fifty bucks is still five times too much.
On the subject if you're already investing in toy entry-level TLRs why ship soviet era trash when you've so much cold war era trash of your own for literally nothing, I'll never understand that. Pic obviously related.
>>2706908
I'm the anal kind of autistic gearfag who researches stuff way beyond the point of practical application.
There are conflicting reports on the matter on the internet, the light degradation school and the moisture/oxidation/general-age-related-degradation school, with the prior being used more by unscientific end users and the latter by ones supplying credible science behind the process. Both parties have examples and proof for their claims but I reckon meters/metered cameras kept in light-tight good conditions usually include said conditions being in a dry, clean place without extreme temperature variation, cue the oxidation school. (the surface conducting transparent layer oxidises, letting less current pass through, lowering the output sensitivity, plus selenium itself undergoes changes vis. moisture)
Without a proper case study (noone will do it since it has little to no value for the current state of previously ill-kept devices) it's a hit and miss lottery game and kudos for your hippie battery-free daylight meter tripfag person.
FYI blue-filtered (cutting IR spectrum) silicon cells are a near-immortal superior replacement that, having surfaced in the 80ies, almost obsolete when created, were redundant in the advent of digital meters and popularity of CdS stuff. Shame they didnt find a niche and we have to fuss over selenium ones.
>>2706944
>it's a hit and miss lottery game
I figured this would be the take home message. But the background was interesting, so thanks for the writeup.
>kudos for your hippie battery-free daylight meter tripfag person.
I haven't even used it since inheriting it :3
Excuse the noob questions but can anyone explain to me why these cameras are popular and what kind of pictures they'll take? Are they worth getting in to?
>>2706955
they are elder god tier.
>>2706957
For what reasons?
>>2706955
They are often cheap, but most importantly they're fun and easy to use.
The slowness of using them makes you more deliberate than if you would snap away with a SLR.
Results can differ from okay to great, depending on make and model.
It's absolutely worth getting into.
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Same camera, Meopta Flexaret
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>>2706961
People like them for handheld walk-about medium format since they're usually 35-50mm equiv focal lengths, no mirror slap, trendy square format, sometimes cheap, and for how they look
awesome pics
>>2707172
nice
>>2711101
FUN
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N
Also panoramic/small DoF
Does anyone else feel like MF produces images that arent even that much better than 35mm or digital crop? Maybe I just havent really nailed the concept yet a lot of my MF shots look the same as if they were shot on 35mm, except the scans are 4700x4700 as opposed to 3500x 2000 or something like that.
Maybe I'm just pixel peeping too much? I havent printed any medium format shots yet either...
for the record im shooting on a 500cm and getting my shit scanned as .tiff files at a nearby lab
Oh hey, what's up.
(Look at this beauty I saw in a tiny shop in Osaka)
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>>2711394
Ur such a fag. Get high res scans of both 120 and 35 and then come back and tell us there isn't a difference. While you're at it, why don't you make an actual print and then see if you can tell the difference. For a low budget fix you can actually look at the fucking negatives....
>>2711426
If I get let's a 8000x8000 scan of MF will it look like shit from compression if I print a 12" x 12"?
What if I printed a 12 x 12 from a 4500x4500 scan, would both 12 x 12 look the same?
How big can you actually print a 6x6 image?
>>2711394
>Does anyone else feel like MF produces images that arent even that much better than 35mm or digital crop
>for the record im shooting on a 500cm and getting my shit scanned as .tiff files at a nearby lab
retard
>>2711480
what do I do then shitposter
>>2711700
scan the fucking negatives yourself. labs are ass. you should know it.
>>2711715
But scanners are le expensive
How are my scans going to be better than lab scans? I would love my own scanner but I dont know what scanners are good, and I wont do DSLR scans
>>2711721
labs just paste presets and oversharpen and kill highlights. dont even bother there.
got mine for free. its a v500. decent for medium format. a friend who considers myself better than him lend me his scanner forever. do the same.
>>2711726
V500/550 looks pretty decent but is it not as good compared to the V850?
I wouldnt want to lose tonal range or overall quality because I wanted to go cheaper
Do you just scan as .tiffs and do all your work in lightroom/photoshop or do you use the tools on the scanner?
>>2711747
havent compared to the better models. some say theyre pretty similar, but more advanced are faster.
yeah, i tiff at 1600dpi. with silverfast, then photoshop for color correcting. youll learn heaps in the process.
how about you show what are these shots that look marginally better than 35mm? im curious
>>2701029
I won a 124g on eBay last spring for ~ $125.
It's been fun so far. Found some zinc-air batteries to get the meter to run, but prior to that I used Sunny 16 or my iPhone to meter. Even used it with some continuous studio light for artsy b&w noodz. Makes me want to find an inexpensive 645N
Tmax 400 here.
