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You are currently reading a thread in /n/ - Transportation
You are currently reading a thread in /n/ - Transportation
Old thread is on auto suigintou
I cleaned my chain and did an inspection and the inner plate on one link is slightly bent. Can I bend it back and ride on it safely? pic related but not as serious as that
Just buy a new chain
>>926316
I have a joke for you.
What's the similarity between your chain and suigintou?
They're both JANKU
I wouldn't chance it desu yo. Metal fatigue a bitch.
reposting from the old thread
if I buy a new groupset (tiagra 4703) could I still use the old 4603 triple front chainring without fucking everything up?
I figured front shifting would be a lot less dependent on having everything perfect (if there even are any spacing changes, but its my first time so I wanted to ask here first
Probably a really common question, but I've done some googling and they make it seem pretty complicated, hoping it boils down to just turning one of the barrel adjustors.
Just moved my bike out of storage (was under the stairs during the winter, needed to install some new coat hangers there so I had to move it and it's coming up to spring so I might as well do it now, since it'll only be a couple of weeks before hopefully I start riding again)
Anyway, the cables were the one thing I wasn't sure of when storing it. I washed and lubed everything, and it all seems really nice (no rust or patina), except for the dust on the black surfaces that's visible. However, there is some chain rub, pretty much whenever I'm on my big ring up front and pretty much the entire small half of the back cassette.
What do I do to remedy this? I don't want to fuck anything up before asking, and I'd just take it down the LBS but they fuck you (charged me £17 for what I could only imagine took 5 minutes for my last adjustment, so hoping to avoid that)
I fiddled around with it last summer, before I initially took it down the LBS, and I think I understand the basics of it, I just got annoyed with having to lift up the back wheel every single time to see if I'd done it right, I guess I should invest in a stand or something. I don't want to end up screwing something out too far, if that's possible.
>>926376
You could, but you're not doing the most worthwhile of upgrades. Story on that?
>>926382
Wire housing sets a bit over time. Screw the barrel adjusters on the shifters out (CCW as if you were looking in to the shifter, through the cable) a quarter of a turn at a time until it stops rubbing in front, and shifts well in the back.
>>926411
I just really hate how the new cranks look, dunno why
>>926382
So, just to clarify, your chain is rubbing on your front derailleur in certain gears on the back?
I'd love to help, but I'm not entirely sure what you're asking.
>>926376
It should be fine. I don't think chainring width should matter unless you're going up 2 or more speeds, if much at all.
I have a question I've been wondering myself.
Is it really that common for people to not service their own bikes? I mean, I can understand not wanting to true or rebuild your own wheels, but do most people seriously take their bike to the shop for something as simple as a BB replacement?
>>926415
I've done it all myself so far, for better or worse (hello rounded spoke nipples)
I've also opted to paint a few friends bikes so I could take apart and rebuild more bikes, fuck around with cantilever brakes, just to know more
>>926415
Yes.
When I'm on my big cog and any outbound gear on the rear cassette, my chain rubs again my front derailleur.
I assume >>926412 is right, I did do a bit of unscrewing before I stopped and came and posted because I didn't want to get to the point where I had screwed them all the way out (if that's possible).
>>926419
Yeah just test that out and if push comes to shove just adjust your front DR a bit.
>>926414
That's not what I'm asking. I'm asking what point you see in upgrading a 10spd Tiagra to ... another 10spd Tiagra. The only difference is slightly more cable pull (which is nice) and hidden cables (also nice), but it not much of an upgrade.
If you're going to spend money, why not get at least 105? Or something completely different, like SRAM Rival22.
>>926419
It's possible, but unlikely. If it happens, screw it back in all the way, shift to the lowest gear in front, loosen the wire from the derailleur, pull it taut (finger force) and fasten the screw again. Begrin unscrewing the barrel adjuster again untill it's good.
>>926316
pop that bad link out and put in a master link
>>926415
Never mind replacing the BB, most people take their bike to the shop to repair flats.
I have a 1991 letour road bike that I've left outside for about 9 months with no protection that also has a broken derailer. Is there any chance I can sell it for any value or should I just dump it?
>>926486
Any idea how much I should sell it for?
>>926500
I would rank alfine 8 just below rohloff. Cheap as dirt and can take much nastier torque than officially advertised.
>>926428
oh, I'm upgrading from the stock RSX groupset because I want to blow some tax money on the cheapest groupo I can find that has aero cable routing for the brifters, but the one thing that would leave a sour taste in my mouth would be the crank.
>>926419
my FD doesn't have a barrel adjust, so I'd just loosen the high limit a 1/4 turn at a time and check it until the cage isn't scraping anymore if that were happening to me.
the barrel on my RD can unscrew all the way CCW, but if so, I just screw it back on, it's not ruined or anything. I count how many turns until it bottoms out, then back it off to halfway and start with re-tensioning my cable and resetting my limits so I have room either way on the fine adjustment with the barrel.
if your cables are around a year or two old, they still are stretching so maybe cable adjustment could be the culprit>>926429
>>926442
But its the inner plate, meaning I'll have to break two links...
>>926500
that bottom one is the Sturmey Archer 3, right?
does it matter if it has the coaster brake or not?
>>926524
The irony is Sheldy himself said old Sturmey coasters were absolute shit and were dangerous to ride.
>>926525
I mean, I'm not interested in running a coaster even if it worked well, I'm just making sure the non-coaster version is as legit as the pic.
I assume he just used a random pic that happens to be coaster, just double-checking
>>926525
>Sheldy himself said old Sturmey coasters were absolute shit and were dangerous to ride.
sawse?
>>926417
Then either you didn't set up your chain length properly or you lost some range.
>>926316
KMC a shit
>>926531
But my chain happens to be sram pc1130
>tfw the drivetrain noise that's been driving me crazy for the past month just went away as suddenly and inexplicably as it appeared
Goddamn magical bicycles
>>926500
has anybody here used a igh on a track bike ?
>>926525
I think he meant the "new" (post 60s) old ones
>>926525
>>926529
nwm found it
> They ran the brake through the gear train. This means that when you're in high gear, when you would be most likely to be going fast...the brake is at its weakest!
>Even worse, if your shifter is mis-adjusted and you accidentally shift into the "neutral" position between 2nd and 3rd gear, the brake will not work at all!
>This flaw was so dangerous that Consumer Reports magazine rated the TCW "unacceptable."
>>926533
Oh,SRAM chains have served me well it terms of wear compared to shitemano chains,which are supposedly made by KMC
>>926541
>shitemano chains,which are supposedly made by KMC
Meme needs to end. Only some chains are made by KMC. There's also nothing wrong with Shimano chains except that they need to be pinned together.
>>926504
It really just depends on the amount I'd rust on the frame and if everything else works mechanically.
If there is minimal rust and everything else works, ask for $125 and accept down to $75 depending on the market.
>>926544
>Only some chains are made by KMC
So,are the other ones made by shimano themselves?
>>926548
Yes. You can tell by where they are made
>>926547
He said it's broken and left out in the elements
I wouldn't expect more than $50
>>926477
'91 LeTour is a perfectly cromulent bike, just gotta clean it up & fix it up before you sell it. See: http://www.pedalroom.com/bike/1985-schwinn-letour-14307
>cadence/training question.
im used to pedal at 60-65 at heavy gears, as im getting more serious about riding im trying to rise my cadence to 80-85.
is it normal that this process can be hard as hell? i just did a 20km fast ride and im actually going a bit slower than i used to do...
any tips on how to raise the cadence? or is it just a normal adaptation process?, ive been trying to raise it for 2 weeks now.. changed long rides for more frequent short ones as i cant hold up high cadence so much (maybe i should go down 2 cogs instead of one).
thanks , and sorry for my crappy english. :D
pic unrelated (if interested see file title)
>>926566
im interested in this
>>926566
You should be going on the high end of natural cadence. Use your normal gear, and just go one gear easier until you get used t o it.
Anyone have tips on getting dried blood and grease out of a Jersey? Took a bad spill after blowing a rear on a downhill during a friendly race, had a nasty cut on my knuckle and arm and had to replace my rear tire in record time, so my brand new jersey looks like someone was murdered in it.
>>926601
Buy Rapha next time.
>>926601
Whatever you do use cold water to try and getting it out. Never hot water!
>>926636
Why would he be mad about "ruining" a $200 jersey?
http://pages.rapha.cc/en_US/service-en_us/repair-service
What portable bike pump is gud?
I normally fill my tires to 55psi
>>926643
topeak turbo morph for frame pump
lezyne pressure drive for mini pump
>>926645
You'd want the Alloy Drive, not pressure for whatever tyres (35 mm? 40 mm?) anon is pumping to 3.8 bar.
>>926521
Barrel adjusters and limit screws do different things. You can't just adjust one in place of the other.
>>926664
In this case you can
>>926668
No. If your cable isn't pulling on the DR, opening the limiter doesn't do anything at all. If the housing has set you need to add wire tension back. The limiter screw doesn't do that.
Does anyone make a reasonably priced steel frame MTN bike or am I going to have to seek out something from the 90's?
I've got a 2009 Scott Aspect without disc brakes and I always keep the fork locked out even on trails. I've always liked the look of rigid steel frames, and the plastic shifters and hard to fine-tune derailleurs are annoying to adjust on my bike. Right brake lever is wobbly. Just feels like a clunky bike.
I've thought a fixie would be fun to try, something simple for around town and down bike trails. I just like durability of mountain bikes though so maybe a singlespeed? I'd build one if parts and a steel frame weren't so expensive alone.
>>926686
It will probably make more sense to find something from the 90's: you can get a brand new basic CrMo frame for $100 from Nashbar or other places online, but it won't be any better than a 90's frame. If you don't mind doing your own maintenance, odds are pretty good you'll be able to find a decent quality, complete bike in the $50-200 range.
>>926671
he said the FD cage was scraping the chain when he was in the big ring/small cog. obvs the cable is pulling, so he has tension. he needs to set the limit.
>>926331
If that's a new chain and you managed to borq it that badly already (and it's that fucking filthy) then there's either something seriously wrong with your bike, seriously wrong with YOU, or both.
Replace the chain and fix whatever fucked it up.
>>926535
>letting a drivetrain noise go unfixed for a month
>>926688
Not him, but actually, since he specified the cage rub is in the higher gears in back, it's likely the tension is slightly too low, and the chain is rubbing on the outer part of the cage. If it were a limit screw problem the chain would rub on the inner part of the cage when he was in lower gears in back.
>>926716
Big ring chain rub problems are tension, because tension is what dictates the position when pulled up into the big ring. The upper limit screw just limits overshift and prevents the chain from being thrown over to the pedal side. Chain rub in only the small ring is usually limit, because there will usually be no tension in the small ring, unless your tension is very high, which will also cause problems in the big ring.
>>926725
>>926716
And this is why I haven't done it myself, even you lot who probably bike far more than I do (only did for a few months last summer after getting my bike) don't seem to know what you're talking about (or at least one of you doesn't).
As far as I know, the limit screws on the FD prevent the derailleur from travelling outside of specific bounds, throwing your chain off towards the pedal or bracket.
I'm assuming the derailleurs have some kind of a spring in them that pulls them to the easiest gearing position, and the act of shifting on your levers 'ratchets' a certain length of cable each time, pulling it taught and acting against the spring to shift your gears up (which would explain why it's easier to shift down than it is to go up, you're releasing tension and the spring is working for you).
So I'm assuming it's a case of adding more tension to the cable when my FD is in the large cog position, so that the FD is pulled far enough out on the elbow joint to clear the chain. I've got no idea if the limit screws need to be periodically reset or what force is acting on them (unless it's just the spring wearing out and you compensating for that with limit adjustments?)
I'm not mechanically minded at all as you can probably tell, and the fact that I don't have a stand to lift the back wheel up just adds awkwardness to any attempts of me adjusting it myself (can't just spin the wheel while adjusting the barrel because I need to manually lift the wheel up each time and would need a third or fourth arm)
>>926728
hang it with a rope or a strap or the saddle or anything from a hook or a tree or anything.
Are there any floor pumps that can do both high volume and high pressure, or do I have to get two if I need good performance with both?
>>926731
I have seen specific pumps for fat bikes, but generally a floor pump doesn't need to make compromises like a hand pump does.
>>926728
I wouldn't say that one of them doesn't know what they're talking about.
I'd just say it can be difficult to diagnose a bike over the internet without seeing it.
I'm sure if either had the bike in front of them they could fix it in a jiffy.
>>926731
Floor pump is tall enough that even if it pumps high pressure it still pumps a decent volume
>>926728
You've figured it out just right. Just because you can find one guy on the Internet without a clue (on 4chan, of all places - shock, horror!) doesn't mean you shouldn't get scared off the mechanical bits.
>>926728
As for makeshift stands... If you have a chin-up bar you can just hang the nose of the saddle on it. Works well enough as long as you aren't taking the wheels of or otherwise upsetting the balance.
Perfect for gear adjustment.
>>926728
>>926771
>chin-up bar
I'm just using an old leather belt which works well. The only issue is the front wheel pivoting as I turn the cranks but I've fixed that by letting the tyre rest inside an old car tyre and the rubber on rubber keeps the front wheel from pivoting. Another way of fixing that is to use some rope or something to tie the front wheel to the down tube.
>>926376
the new group won't index for triple on the front shifter. what's wrong with compact boi?
>>926796
Of course it will index for triple you knob. That's what the 3 in 4703 stands for.
>>926500
Fixed that for you.
>>926803
Out of curiosity, what makes Alfine shit?
(And surely broken spokes have nothing to do with that particular hub, but rather poorly machinebuilt wheels without butting of their spokes, popular on the types of bike those hubs end up on.)
>>926804
Alfine 11 can't handle excessive torque (so no gear below about 24 inches) and leak fluid (though not as much as Rolhoffs). Alfine 8 are great though (Very reliable. Can handle very high torque compared to all IGH except Rohloffs. Some people even use them on MTBs. Also excellent seals). They are in no way shit.
>>926728
Forget about the limit screw. You understand the spring force/ratchet mechanism perferctly. The limit screws basicaly just ensures you don't shift the chain completely off the chainset. It should not normaly be used to trim chain rub, except on the smallest ring. Chain rub on the other ring(s) should be trimmed out by way of cable tension.
You set the position of the derailleur cage within the interval set by the limiter screws by adjuster the cable tension. Usualy by unscrewing the barrel adjuster on you shifter or down tube wire stop.
You shouldn't have to screw the barrel adjuster in ever after installation, because there is no way the cable could get more tensioned over time. The exeption, of course, being if you screwed it to far out yourself. ;)
The housing sets a bit and gets ever so slightly shorter over time and with use, and you'll have to unscrew the barrel adjusters to get that tension back. This is sometimes (wrongly) attributed to the cable stretching, but that's impossible, and it is only ever the housing setting. The effect is the same. How much it sets is determined by the quality of the housing and the care with which it was installed. If the ends were cut cleanly (straight angle and no fray) you can end up with an installation that is nearly impossible to adjust right, and need adjustment all the time.
People sometimes wrongly attribute this to the drivetrain being of poor quality, when it's the housing or installation thereof that is at fault.
You already demonstrated a better understanding of shifters and their mechanism in that post than most cyclists possess. There is no way you won't get this shit down to perfection with a bit of practice, and nothing is unfixable.
>>926816
*if the ends were _not_ cut cleanly you can end up with an installation that is nearly impossible to adjust right
Sorry about that.
Hi OP
You don't need a new chain
You can just replace the fucked up link with a quick link/powerlink OR possibly even just remove the link entirely and have a shorter chain.
>>926819
No. You can not replace an inner plate link with a quick link. Those are outer plate.
OP should just replace his bike
>>926813
are they significantly better than nexus 8 hubs?
>>926835
this is exactly what I did when my LBS told me I needed to apply some kind of "loobrication" to my chain, I told them to fuck right off and bought the newest model off the shelf.
>>926316
At what point do you replace a rim? My rims have formed a lip, probably 1.5mm. Do i ride it until it explodes? It's a pretty old rim and has no wear indicator....or it could be worn away already?
>>926865
Your rim probably didnt have 1½mm of excess material or anything close to it. All wear indicators I've seen are closer to ½mm.
I say you're overdue.
>>926867
Wakatta senpai
My front derailleur throws the chain off when I shift up to the big cog. Already turned the limiter screw in as far as it will go. What do I need to do?
Also I want to put a 36 tooth big cog cassette on. Just wondering if I need anything besides a new derailleur and cables and the cassette? Also is there much difference in quality with the cables because lifeline cables are many times less than shimano. As I understand there are many different 9 speed mountain bike rear derailleurs that will work with 10 speed road shifters. Would some perform better than others or what? If not then I won't be getting the most expensive one.
Oh I guess I'll need a new chain right.
>>926908
Are you sure you got the right limit screw? Usually you can't even shift in to the outer chainring with the limit maxed out.
>>926909
Yeah I think so. Turning it in helped but I only got about an eighth or a quarter turn before it was fully in. Went on a short ride and it worked perfectly but later it started throwing it off again and it is getting progressively worse.
>>926855
Well at least your LBS is honest.
>>926690
that picture is not his
>>926911
Something is very wrong. Pictures help.
It shouldn't even shift with the limiter all the way in.
>buy chain tool
>remove old chain no problem
>try to shorten new chain, tool breaks
>go get a new tool
>try to shorten new chain, tool breaks
what the hell?
>>926813
All the opinions online about alfine 11 being weak is from people who's never ridden IGH before and mashed it during gear shifts. Some were about alfine 8 being weak and then projecting on alfine 11 also being weak. I've yet to see someone who's ridden both the 8 and the 11 voice their opinion.
I myself am thinking of running alfine 11 just for the simple fact that oil changes won't cost me a hundred bucks at the lbs like when I had my nexus 8 overhauled.
Also I've changed my stock shifter for an aftermarket jtek bar end and it was night and day. I suspect shitty shifters that doesn't shift precisely will grind the gears to death.
>>926970
buy some park tools instead of that china shit.
My front derailer isn't shifting the chain to the largest cog, how do you fix that?
>>926970
Learn to use your chain tool.
>>927015
Make sure the cage is in line with the rings; that the DR and shifter are compatible; that the limiter isn't screwed in too far; that the cable has adequate tension; that the bottom bracket has the right axle length for your chainset; that you aren't trying to shift a touring/MTB chainset with road DR/shifter or vice versa. And lots more.
>>927008
>All the opinions online about alfine 11 being weak is from people who's never ridden IGH
source?jk m8 I'm sure that you just pulled that out your arse.
>projecting on alfine 11 also being weak.
have you even seen the internals of a alfine 11 compared to a rohloff?
>for the simple fact that oil changes won't cost me a hundred bucks at the lbs like when I had my nexus 8 overhauled.
The jewLBS sure wont overcharge you good goy :^)
>>927031
I think anons point about the oil is that the Alfine11 runs on oil that you could concievably flush and change yourself, while the Alfine8 and all the Nexuses are packed with fat that is a whole different ball game, and means taking the hub a part.
The upside of the fat is you don't have to do it as often because the fat stays in place and maintains lubrication much better than oil, but once it has to be serviced, it'll cost.
>>927033
You can put ATB oil into an alfine 8 instead of grease. People have been doing that for years now and it runs fine.
>>927043
You'd still have to open the hub up
While as Alfine 11 has an oil port
Is there any advantage of a hub gear in comparison to a chain gear, other than that it's way more robust and shielded?
Like what exactly is the difference in driving and shifting? From what I could read about it, most of the bikes that are sold come with a 8-speed and it's appearently enough for everything, while I sit here with my 24-gear bike.
>>927058
Shifting is much smoother and instantaneous. You can also shift while stationary with most hub gears. If you don't mind a limited selection, they're great but can get pretty expensive.
>>927058
1. IGH's are weatherproof and simple, at the expense of weight and a little bit of efficiency.
2. There's not any inherent difference in the way one uses the gearing on a bike with an IGH vs. one with a derailer, that really depends on the specifics of each system (range of gearing available, relative difference between each available ratio). The answer to your general question is to read this page:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gear-theory.html
>>927075
>>927070
thanks, definetly looking into it before summer and eventually changing it on my bike.
I've noticed myself skipping gears sometimes, simply because the ratios are really bad. Also, the 3-speed shifter on my left makes no sense anyway, since on every of these you will have gears that appear in the next set aswell (if you get what I mean by that).
>>927058
A 24-gear bike is not three times more than an 8-speed, because there is a lot of overlap to keep the need for front-shifts down. You usualy have six or seven usable gears per chainring, with the middle chainring being overlapped by the inner and outer almost completely.
An 8-speed IGH would offer you roughly the same gear range, but perhaps a couple fewer gears within that range. An 11-speed would offer you the same range or greater, and the same number of gears once the redundant gear combinations are subtracted from the the "24"-speed.
People are moving away from talking about total number of gears for this reason. Your bike is an 8-speed triple, and only a salesman would say 24-speed these days.
The advantage of an IGH over a double/tripple is lesser/different maintainence, better Q-factor, encasing chain guards, simplified shifting and so on and forth. The main disadvantages being cost, weight, efficiency and removing the wheel gets complicated.Choose your poison.
A 1x setup offers most of the advantages of both for many users.
>>927058
It is better shielded, thus requires a lot less maintenance, but is not more robust. IGH can handle lower torque than derailleur systems. Therefore you are limited on the lowest possible gear. Going lower could damage the hub. For example, for alfine, shimano only offers a stock chainring/sprocket combination of 39/23 which gives a lowest possible gear of 24 gear inches. That's not low enough for loaded touring for example. You can use non shimano parts to reach a lower gear but you might damage the hub (a real possibility for the alfine 11 ; the 8 is much more sturdy). Fortunately high ends IGH like Rohloffs can handle more torque and are even intended for loaded touring.
Other problems are a slightly higher weight than a derailleur system, also concentrated on the rear wheel. The selection of drop bar shifters is also dismal. And low-end IGHs have a slightly lower efficiency than derailleur systems.
Of course there are also advantages to IGHs. You can shift when stopped, which is very useful for commuters (and most IGHs are on commuter bikes). You can use single speed chains, which are sturdier than multispeed chains, and the perfect chainline means they will last forever to boot. Your chainring and rear cog will also last much longer than chainrings and cassettes intended for derailleur system. It's impossible for the chain to drop. You can also do away completely with chains and use belts (=zero maintenance). And due to wider flanges the wheel is stronger than with a normal hub.
>>927080
Gear overlaps exists but there are gears that are better for chain alignment reasons than others so some overlaps won't make sense.
Another advantage of IGH is in the winter your cassette will have snow buildup between the cogs and make the chain skip.
can you test ride a bike with uncut steerer and no spacers/top cap before you commit to cutting it?
>>927089
Just put a stack of spacers and cap it to test ride
>>927081
yeah haha, I remember this back then when we kids all got our first bigger bikes (26") and you were boss with a 24-speed (gears = muh topspeed). Nowadays you're cool if you drive hoverboards or E-bikes. On my campus you see those everyday.
Anyone has long-term first hand experience? I read a bit about it and looked into changing it myself as soon I have money. Would love to know how the transmission performs in everyday life.
>>927088
A disadvantage of IGH in the winter is if conditions are so poor ice cake cassettes are a problem the IGHs don't work very well either. The IGH riders up here (Sweden) report the lubrication bath getting thick enough to make gear changes difficult, or even impossible when the temperature drops below -15°C or so.
>>927089
>mfw i used to have one of those frames but it got stolen and discontinued
>>927093
IIRC there are different oils you can replace with that work fine in the cold.
>>927089
I told my shop to leave mine long until i got fit and they gave me this many.
>>927091
Yeah, but my steerer is as long as in the pic, I have a handful of spacers, but not enough to stack them up to the top. Don't wanna buy more spacers or cut it twice either.
>>927098
Sorry but you'll have to do one or the other to test ride it.
What is this axle model?
It appeared out of nowhere.
>>927089
Completely uncut would be silly, but you usualy cut it a few centimeters too high, stack up a chimney of spacers and ride for a while, making adjustments as you go. When you've found the setting you want you punch the star nut down below that mark and make a lower cut. Always leave at least a 5mm spacer on top. You dont want the steerer to end inside the stem clamp for safety reasons.
>>927099
Okay, looks like I'm gonna stock up on spacers then.
>>927100
That's a tiger saw dildo adapter and not a bike part.
>>927102
or you could just quit being a faggot and pic related.
>>927105
That's not possible. I only use dragon dildos.
>>927108
Yeah, I intend to, but wanna try out different heights first just to be sure.
So I sorted my front derailleur out, gave my wheel a spin and went up and down in my back gears and noticed my rear derailleur needs adjusting as well.
Thought it would have been a case of simply doing the same and pulling the wire more taught, but it seems I have the opposite issue somehow. Need to move the derailleur arm outboard a fraction (away from the wheel), but it seems like my barrel adjuster is already cranked as far clockwise as it will go, and the opposite direction just moves it inboard. And it seems the same is true with the barrel adjuster on the right brake housing, it's as far clockwise as it will go.
Am I missing something or am I probably going to have to try and adjust my rear derailleur from scratch
Going to give it a fiddle tomorrow as I have the day off (only spent 5 minutes on it this morning before I left for work). I've got plenty time before it gets warm enough for my to cycle (too jewish to invest in any warm gear, so I'll just wait a few weeks before Spring hits)
On a semi related note (related to judaism), I want to upgrade to power straps (or the stocked equivalent in Wiggle), but the stock bike pedals don't support them, so I'm going to need to upgrade my pedals as well. I don't suppose there are any mountain bike pedals that have a flat side, and a cleated side, that would also support Restraps (I believe they're called), for when I potentially, eventually, upgrade to clips?
>>927112
this is why I am glad I only use quill stems
I don't have an aversion to threadless but this seems like a huge inconvenience. I'm always playing with my stem height / bike fit
>>927116
Your reach is probably wrong, and you're making constant adjustments to height to try and compensate but can never find the sweet spot because the reach is off.
>>927115
Shift to the highest gear, unscrew the barrel adjuster a few turns, release the cable from the derailleur and fasten it again. Now you can adjust both ways.
You should only ever have to tighten the rear cable, technicaly, but the wheel will sit ever so slightly different in the dropout every time you fasten the QR. This means particularly disc brakes might need slight adjustment.
Your derailleur hanger could also have gotten ever so slightly bent, but within the range where you can still trim it out to working order by adjusting the cable tension. In this case too, its good to not have had the barrel adjusters screwed all the way in when first set up.
You don't want straps. You want clipless or flat pedals. Not cages and straps. There's a reason straps and compatible pedals are hard to find outside hipsterville.
There are double sided pedals with both a platform and a cleat side, but no straps.
>>927122
I think it's probably a case of the wheel being reseated (or improperly reseated, haven't been out on a ride since the end of autumn and took the rear wheel off to clean it after my last ride). I'll check it tomorrow.
It's been under the stairs mainly but has been shuffled around, hopefully no one has smashed the RD against a wall or anything.
>>927122
I disagree, I've been happy using straps on my commuter for years and many to come. They take a bit to get used to but they fill a good niche between flats and clipless. Hate flats on the road and I don't want to be wearing clipless shoes 24/7 so.
>>927118
Generally I make adjustments based on the nature and length of the ride. I use my touring bike for racier rides in winter to avoid mucking up my racing bike - generally calls for a more aggressive geometry.
Although I've thought about experimenting with a shorter stem.
>>927089
No. You must install spacers and a top cap.
>>927089
>uncircumcised steerer tube
GROSS!
I bought this for ~ 10 bucks on ebay.
I built my girlfriend a 1x9 commuter and the chain drops from time to time.
this should stop it.
is there some kind of adapter to clamp it on the seattube like a normal front deraileur ?
>>927094
But they still make that frame, just not that colorway
>>927125
Why not use proper flats with pins?
Is there a way to adjust the crown race/headset upwards so there's room to put a rack support brace between the fork and brake caliper bolt?
I know some headsets have different stack heights, but I don't know how much that could possibly affect where the crown race sits. Is this somehow due to the forks age? I assume it's period to my dad's old Univega Sportour which I think is early 80's. I could get a longer brake bolt but I don't know how much it would affect braking/pad position on the rim. There's also the possibility of getting someone to machine a brake pivot bolt with the tang built in. I could also get a new/used fork that had more space between the front caliper bolt and crown race.
Anyone ever run into something like this? Also it's for a Soma Mini Front Rack, so I'm hoping to avoid the more expensive options of fixing this.
>tl;dr how fucked am I?
>locked my bike up for a year after riding it for a few months
>gonna go ride later
>shit, have no chain lube
I have a can of "motomaster white grease", would that do fine? Or am I gonna fuck my bike up? Shit's in a rattle can.
>>927176
How is grease in a rattle can??
>>927176
Butter or cooking oil will be able to bring you from home to bike shop nicely
>>927172
i thought the whole point of 1x was no more chain drops
>>927181
IT JUST IS
>>927173
I own real flats with pins, I don't like to use them on the road because they offer no retention.
>>927195
Yes, and that's a chain guide, which most 1x drivetrains are already equipped with
I went to replace my saddle on my old MTB and it doesn't have like a nice rail seat clamp, it's like some beach cruiser springy shit.
How the fuck do I put a normal seat on this thing? Seat clamps are weird
my wheels are going out of true more than i'd like, and I suspect it's due to the fact that pavement is maximum shit in my town. If I went from 25s to 28s, would that help mitigate this problem?
>>927240
Go a few more sizes up and then it could help
>>927240
It could help, but your wheels probably aren't tensioned properly, or theyr'e shite, or a combination of the two.
>>927226
Does your old saddle have flat rails like what's pictured here? If so, to use a standard saddle (with round rails) you'll need a new saddle clamp - good news is they're extremely inexpensive ($5 tops). Google "standard seat clamp"
>>927244
damn, guess that means I've gotta take it into a shop. I'm learning this whole mechanic thing, but wheel-adjustment is still beyond me.
>>927247
Huh, yeah they are like pic related but with like round tubes. Thanks man
>>927252
Well what kind of wheels do you have? No sense paying to have shitty wheels retensioned.
>>927254
honestly not that great (Alex R500 rims on Scott hubs--32spoke, came with the bike when I bought it used). I just worry about making things worse if I try to do it myself and having to pay a shop even more $
>>927255
Well the thing is, if a wheel spends its entire life tensioned improperly, it will always want to stay in that shape, meaning properly tensioning it will make it out of true inherently. If it's bad enough, you've got a wheel that will never stay true no matter what you do.
Best thing might be to buy a new wheelset. When you do, consider retensioning it. Wheel-building machines are great at making wheels true, but not necessarily at achieving even spoke tension. That's why hand-built wheels are much stronger. If you retension a machine built wheel before its warped, you can make it stronger and increase its longevity.
>>927257
Yeah, and if the bike had been a lot nicer to start with, that'd be way less of a big deal. Seems like nice wheelsets start at like $400 and go up from there, which is more than I paid for this whole bike.
>>927259
That's not really relevant because if you end up buying a nicer bike, you can move the new wheelset over to it.
>>927262
you're totally right, I hadn't even thought of that. I'll start doing wheelset research tomorrow. Any recommendations?
>>927264
Depends what you want to do with it and what your price range is!
Also, speeds?
>>927262
Unless you go from rim to disc, or qr to thru etc.
It's a dangerous time we live in,,,
>>927265
Commuting mostly, plus grocery getting, so I'm more interested in strong than in light. Budget probably around $3-400 for a set.
>>927271
Mavic A719's maybe
>>927279
It's possible you snapped the piece of the derailleur that is meant to contact the outer limit screw off. I've done it before. See if anything in there looks like it snapped
>>927210
>implying riding on a flat surface is more demanding then DH/free ride/trail riding
>pic related, I have mad grip with Teva Links and those Chromag Contacts
>>927289
Does the bike have ISCG mounts? If not then see if it's compatible with a bb mount or seat tube mount. Some chain/bash guards can only be used with the specific mount they were designed for.
>>927271
you didn't say what your drivetrain is but if it's a modern 10/11sp from any of the big three i'd rec campy zonda wheels
>>927294
it's kind of interesting to train your legs to keep your feet on platforms during high cadence spins and then go back to clipless.
>>927270
i hope the industry settles on a standard for thru axles before qr dies because of litigation in murrica
Recommended bike tool with chain breaker?
>>927294
I just switched to flats, got a pair of 5.10 shoes with some super sticky rubber. I was suprised at how well they grip. Will clipless be the next MTB standard to die?
>>927297
>i hope the industry settles on a standard for thru axles before qr dies because of litigation in murrica
I hope people learn how to properly use QRs.
>>927294
DMR V8 pedals and 5-10 shoes. My feet don't move an inch, makes it hard to get proper positioning sometimes.
On the topic of drivetrain issues, keeping your cassette clean makes a difference, apparently. The funny ridges and nuts on the side of each cog are there for the chain to catch on and help push it to the next cog. If dirt is in the way, it stops the chain catching properly.
There are a bunch of little things you can do to make your gears change better:
>Check wheel is seated properly in frame
>Clean cassettes, clean chain, clean cables, clean derailleur
>Check cassette and chain aren't worn out - if so, replace.
>Adjust cable tension (barrel and/or derailleur adjuster) - tighter to help change to bigger gears, looses to help change to smaller gears.
Then there are slightly bigger "workshop" tasks:
>Check limit screws (high, low, and "B")
>Full index of gears - involves unfastening cable from derailleur, turning barrel adjuster to give you full range of adjustment (ie. from fully in, give it four/five complete revolutions so it's "half-way in"), and reattaching cable so it's taut again. Then change through gears, adjusting cable tension with the barrel adjuster until it all changes smoothly.
And if that hasn't fixed it, you'll have big "take to the bike shop unless you know what you're doing" problems:
>Check derailleur cage or derailleur hanger isn't bent - can be unbent, but this is tricky without damaging even further
>Check wheels or cassette aren't bent - if you've bent your wheel such that it affects gear changing, it's probably fucked and needs replacing
>Replace cables and cable housing - cheap but effective remedy. Cables can get very gunked up or have hidden kinks, cable housing can be improperly fitted the first time around.
>>926557
howwwwwwwww
>>927100
thomson bb
it's so shit don't even bother
https://www.google.nl/search?q=thomson+axle&biw=1304&bih=713&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiDl5DPh5PLAhUFCBoKHUKeAkMQ_AUIBigB
>>927271
Do you guys think CXP-22s would be enough for this guy?
They're heavy as fuck, but strong and cheap.
>>927334
>DMR BRO
Bought a pair of DMR Magnesium + TI V12 pedals almost 10 years ago. Were total bling at the time but been on my trials bike, fixed gear roadie, hardtal and dualie.
One of my imortal purchases.
>>927352
>TI V12 pedals
wellgo manufactures those pedals. not relevant if yours are old but new buyers can save $ buy buying the wellgo branded ones. Also post your stable.
>>927348
Yes, but in that price range I think Velocity A23 is a better alternative.
If I were anon I'd buy a set of Shimano R501 or RS11.
Here's how my bike looks after this winter. As soon as I put pressure on the chain while pedaling, I get a regular clicking sound several times per revolution. The chain frequently skips. The chain in pic got that way after I pedaled backwards swiftly.
If you're gonna call me a fag for not taking care of my bike properly I guess you're right, but this is my first winter living close to the sea and as a non-enthusiast using it as a work bike I was unaware it would be this bad.
Could I fix this myself with a towel and some grease or should I have it serviced?
Thanks
>>927367
I'd say you can take care of most of it yourself.
Replace the chain, but clean off your gears before putting the new one on.
I can't see the derailleur that well since I'm on mobile, but consider cleaning that too if it's as bad as your gears.
Also make sure everything is properly lubed when you're done.
>>927367
Remove chain
Soak in mineral spirits
Clean drivetrain with mineral spirits + toothbrush
Install chain
Wipe with clean rags
Lube
Wipe with clean rags
Grease and towels have no place near a drivetrain, use clean rags and bicycle lube
>>927195
In fact 1x with no chainguide or narrow wide chainring will experience nore chaindrops, because frent derailleur acts as somewhat of a chain guide.
>>927379
Don't bother with the mineral spirits and just toss the chain. They are cheap, and that one is gone. You don't need to go overboard with cleaning the gears. Mild detergent and a brush, and just get the worst off.
>>927294
But I never made that implication.
Grip /= retention
Also, lots of DH/FR riders use clipless not flats.
>>927172
No, just mount it to the ISCG tabs.
>>927195
Yeah, because you can run a fixed chainguide.
>>927270
The rim-QR market isn't going away any time soon, so don't worry about that. The only one that's in danger of becoming obsolete soon in the road market is the 15 mm front, 142 mm rear.
>>927333
>Will clipless be the next MTB standard to die?
No, don't be retarded.
Got a noise coming from my back wheel while coasting (haven't been out on a ride on it this year yet, was just making sure everything was in order for when I do)
Seems to be a clicking that isn't the usual noise from the freewheeling ratches. Read it could be a few things, from needing more lube in the rear hub to broken spokes.
Could it be the spokes that are causing it if my rear wheel has no weight? For some reason that has me the most worried, but I'm hoping that it can't be the spokes since I'm lifting the back wheel into the air and there isn't any force on the wheel (other than centrifugal from the spinning, I guess).
I also think I might have just put the wheel back on incorrectly, but it's the middle of the night where I am so I can't mess around with it at the moment. Tomorrow I might take the whole back wheel off and give it a spin to see if it is definitely is the rear hub like it sounds.
Any ideas? Again, thinking I might have just put it back wrong because I can't remember hearing anything the last time I gave the wheel a spin.
I did notice there is some fluctuation on both the spinning tire, and the plastic spoke protector thing around the gears (haven't taken it off, don't really see the reason to). Could that be an indication that it's just not put on correctly? It's not massive, but is visible.
I just want to peddle to the beach and back without all this anxiety over if I'm going to have to pay to have something fixed.
>>927379
Paint thinner doesn't actually thin paint. Wel it does, paint that hasnt actually cured. It means exactly that, adding paint thinner to liquid paint instead of water. But I'd say your chain is toast. A $14 kmc chain is worth it.
![trkaci-biciklo-eddy-merckx-slika-63075916[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/o9YMUas.jpg "trkaci-biciklo-eddy-merckx-slika-63075916[1].jpg")
How much would you pay for this merckx that has seen better days?
>>927431
$65
>>927431
>Paint thinner
about tree fiddy
>>927431
$500 tops if I was buying it to fix and flip, a little more if I was planning to keep it.
>>927431
>
tre fidie
>>927431
>campagnolo shifters
>shimano everything else
Not even tree
>>927347
Thanks, anon.
>>927297
How so? I'm a spinner but have never ridden clipless
>>927333
Those flats seem pretty thick, reason for not going with a thinner platform?
Remember heels down for the rough and tumble, also Brian Lopes book is the shit for improving bike handling/mtb skills
>>927334
>>927352
I love how flat pedals have that special bond with mtbers, you may go through many frames and other parts but flats are that trusty friend that you never think about getting rid of. Sure it may not be on your high end rig but it's either on another steed or in a box waiting for the next build.
I have a pair of Answer pedals that I'll never get rid of. They have been ridden so much the pins are starting to round. They have been on my ss mtb, ss road bike and my dad's 80's Univega Sportour.
The Chromags are now on the Univega and the Answers back on the ss road bike.
>>927367
>towel and some grease
I assume your new to the whole diy/fixing/mechanical thing, because a towel and grease would just exacerbate things. But
Take off the chain/chainring/cassette/jockey wheels and degrease and soak/scrub that shit with some simple green and/or baking soda and a stiff brush. If it's still rusty as shit try something stronger. The chainring/cassette/jockey wheels should clean up pretty easy, the chain might been fucked beyond saving but it could be salvageable. Then clean the rest of your bike. Might want to invest in some better pedals then those, try plastic bmx pedals if on a budget. They'll be more comfortable and better preforming then those.
Also post rest of bike, because if your drivetrain is that bad...
Also post cleaning results.
>>927383
But for flats grip is retention (foot placement/angle also factors in)
>>927410
Alot more gravel/adventure bikes are going that routefreehub?.
>>927429
Post photo or give more detail in components, freewheel or freehub. If it was broken spokes you'd be able to tell because the spoke would be hanging from one end.
>>926566
Get a track bike
>>927511
Grip is the substitute for retention, you can still lift your foot off the pedal.
>>927511
>Alot more gravel/adventure bikes are going that routefreehub?.
Please re-phrase that.
My cassette wobbles, what is the problem?
>>927562
Okay thanks
It's a very slight wobble, I'd say about 0.5mm.
>>927552
Essentially all cassettes and freewheels appear to 'wobble' a tiny bit when you spin them because the bearings inside always have a very, very slight amount of lateral play. Now it is possible that you could have damaged your hub and that's causing the wobble, but highly unlikely and is generally obvious when it happens, so unless the wobble is causing shifting problems it's nothing to worry about.
>>927540
Sorry mobile fucked up and somehow pasted freehub to the end of that
>>926911
this probably isn't it but put some locktite on that limit screw anyway.
could be that the positioning of the derailleur where it clamps to the seat tube is off kilter, just a guess.
Shod I get a mirror for my bike
>>927590
Weekend warriors and such might deride you for it, but really, if you're riding for utility (or recreation) there's little reason not to.
>>927590
do you have problems swiveling your head
>>927590
Mirrors have blind spots.
I used to get around on a hardtail with offroad tires but was only on road.
Buying my own first bike I expect to ride on road almost exclusively and want something between a road bike and all-rounder (with drop bar for a change).
The problem I see with road bikes is that 28 tires or smaller are limiting where I can go. I imagine that I can't take a quick detour or am not flexible if I were to be out for a day and ride with friends. I would probably get fenders sooner or later and while a rack isn't necessary it would be nice to have the option.
I am looking into cyclocross bikes but they seem to be expensive.
Are there suitable alternatives?
(under 1300 EUR, available in germany)
>>927693
CX/adventure/gravel/touring bikes are more expensive than standard road, but not 1300€ expensive. You can get pretty much anything you want (exept titanium) for that kind of money.
>>927693
A Fuji touring would be a good choice. The steel frame and wide tyre clearance are great for gravel road detours. You'll have a rack and fenders come with the bike too. Or a Kaffenback 2 would give you nice offroad capabilities. If you wanted to spend up to your budget you could build something yourself from a nicer steel frame, maybe a surly straggler/Croix de fer/all city Mr pink. Basically any steel frame road bike with decent tyre clearance can go anywhere a cyclocross/adventure bike can, without making you look like a radavist/ten speed heroes poser.
So I was planning on buying a new set of wheels for my Peugeot UO-8, but then I came across a Specialized Hardrock on CL for $35 in good condition.
Should I buy the HR and make a sick dirt-drop meme bike with slicks, or should I keep setting back for that wheelset?
nb4both
>>927754
It's $35, why wouldn't the answer be both?
what do I put in my water bottle that isn't water
>>927759
bcuz very poor
>>927769
Piss
Is it better to take the lane or let cagers dangerously over take you if there's no bike lane and it's a country road? I'm new to road riding.
>>927777
You should never invite an overtake if it's dangerous to overtake. Curves, meeting traffic or hill crests. Other than that you should do what you can to let people pass you. That does not include facilitating shared lane overtakes. Those are always dangerous.
On the other hand, if there is an idiot out on the roads who gets the idea that he should pass you in the most dangerous way possible just to punish you for intruding on his road, there is very little you can do to stop him. Even riding on the shoulder will not stop one of these douches from douching.
>>927777
Depends on the area, generally I'd say keep right.
It's not like taking the lane in town where you'll keep up with overtaking traffic anyways, let them go unless it's clearly unsafe. Like if there's a sharp turn/juncture with poor visibility or it's narrow with steady oncoming traffic.
>>927777
>Would you be comfortable with a motor vehicle passing you without leaving your lane?
y: ride towards road edge (with appropriate safety margin of course)
n: primary position
Everywhere I look online says bike weight makes fuck all difference even on hills yet when I have my rear rack, heavy U lock and bits and bobs in my rack bag hills are considerably more difficult than without.
Am I just imagining it or what? The extra weight is probably about 5kg or so but it definitely feels like I have toi put more effort in on hills.
>>927798
Of course it's harder you're lugging an extra 5kg up that Hill.
Also who the fuck said bike weight doesn't affect Hill climbs? Like do you have a lack of understanding of basic physics?
>>927800
>Everywhere I look online says bike weight makes fuck all difference even on hills
I didn't say no difference, but there seems to be a lot of people on forums arguing about it saying that weight doesn't make much of a difference.
http://www.outsideonline.com/1959681/will-lighter-bike-make-me-faster
Then again it could be that they're talking about bikes that are 0.5mg lighter rather than 5kg.
>>927779
>>927783
>>927785
Just got back from ride. The climb was a windy road with double lines (you're legally not allowed to cross them to overtake). Things is I was crawling up it while the cagers still wanted to to do max speed in their death cages. Some cunts fucking flew past me close. I tried to move to the edge on straights but otherwise stayed in the middle. But really I didn't know what to do I thought the cages might just overtake me even if I'm in the middle. Descent was fun no problem 65km/h with baggies on.
Guess I'll just have to deal with it if I want to leave suburbia and I do since it's boring there.
>>927834
This surprised me too but in some areas overtaking cyclists over double lines is legal, check your local laws.
I try to only take the lane at the crest of hills where the lanes are narrow and I must, the speed difference of a climbing cyclist and a car is dangerous. But yeah some motorists are suicidal and overtake anyways, I just hope I don't get hit by the wreckage when one finally gets unlucky.
>>927798
>>927801
Yep, you got it. Discussions about weight become arguments when people start talking shaving grams of weight off their bikes. If your bike + rider weight is 80kg and you add 5kg of cargo, that's a significant percentage change in the total amount of mass you're pushing up a hill, so yeah obviously that kind of load is going to make a real difference.
Discussions about mechanical brakes on road bikes leave me completely confused.
It seems clear that the Avid BB7 and TRP Spyre are (amongst) the best mech. brakes. But at the same time people say they are crap. Hydraulic brakes are out of my price range so they are not really an option.
How would you describe mechanical brakes compared to canti, v-brakes and hydraulics?
I only know flat bar with v-brakes from a '99 mountain bike and a current trekking bike.
>>927850
>road bike
I should be clearer, I mean cross if the term fits. Road geometry, drop bar, mainly for road and suitable for light terrain.
>>927850
Mechanical dick brakes (with the exception of the hy/rd) don't self-adjust. With the exception of spyre and hy/rd (which is a special case), they don't squeeze from both sides, so the power isn't as good
On the other hand they're easier to set up, cheaper to buy, cheaper to buy parts for, and aren't filled with toxic, environmentally harmful fluids that most (not all) dick brakes have. Also if you bang your mech caliper and something comes loose, you can fix it with a multitool. if you bang your hydro caliper and it bleeds its lifeblood all over the earth, the brake is fucked without specialized tools
Also if you believe the internet, literally every bike-related product ever made is dangerous overpriced memecrap that should never have been made/is obsolete/isn't necessary/is a solution to a problem that doesn't exist/is unreliable/is exactly the same as Brand X but twice the price/etc.
>>927850
Spyre is hands down better than BB7. BB7 was only good before the Spyre existed. Anything less than a BB7 is questionable if it's a real upgrade over good rim brakes with good pads on aluminum rims.
Are helmets recyclable? I'm replacing my 6yo one soon and I'd like to recycle if possible.
>>927917
nope
you could always be Super Quirky and use it as a planter or some shit
So I've got a Shimano 6400 groupset with a 53/39 crank that's destroying me on climbs. I'm thinking about putting a compact on until I get a little fitter but I don't know what's compatible. Would something like crankset in the picture work? It's a Stronglight Impact btw. Also my FD isn't a braze on so I think the difference in chainring height should be an issue. Cheers.
>>927853
>if you bang your hydro caliper and it bleeds its lifeblood all over the earth
…you get what you deserved for trying to use a brake constructed from papier maché. That shit never happens, don't be silly.
>>927958
Ever thought of getting a cassette with a wider range instead? I run a 53/39 crankset too and also had trouble climbing, until I got an 11-28 cassette, now I climb without any issues. I've found that with compact cranksets you hardly ever use the small chainring, which is kind of a waste.
In any case yeah, that'd be compatible, as long as it uses the same BB type as your current crankset.
Whats the most pro way to angle your skewers?
>>927982
can you retype that? it seems like you asked why spyres would be worse than rim brakes, which obviously doesn't make sense.
>>927998
Horizontally for aerodynamics.
>>927982
They are better than rim brakes on every level except weight and aero.
>>927999
Your response and >>928003 helped already.
It might be obvious to you and I want to make sure they are not crap.
My LBS confused me by advising against the cyclocross bike because of the TRP Spyres and says they had a lot of people complaining about mech. brakes. Since upgrading to hydr. is expensive compared to the bike price they almost talked me out of it buying that bike.
So yeah, my question is _if_ TRP Spyre brakes are worse than rim brakes (road/mountain bike).
>>928008
Some LBS have a cunty attitude about mechanical dick brakes because (a) they're not the most expensive thing possible so less $$ for them, and (b) they're relatively user-serviceable so that, again, means less $$$ for them
Every design has its pros and cons but it sounds like in your position spyres are the way to go
>>927998
Never horizontal. The should be tucked in behind the fork and under the chain stay so nothing can catch them accidentally. Freds mount them horizontally and trailing. People with style point and laugh.
The only exception is TT because placebo aerodynamics.
>>927998
In line with your fork blades and seat stays, respectively.
>>927980
Unfortunately it's a short cage derailleur. I don't know if I could get a 28t to shift. My largest cog is a 23t right now so I think my out of shape ass could find a use for the compact.
What the fuck am I supposed to do when my bike isn't triggering the red lights at intersections? Do I have to wait for someone to get behind me in the same lane? I've also heard to get off and lay your bike down onto the ground to trigger the sensor, but that sounds pretty retarded.
>>927998
It really depends on the skewers and bike. It depends on the dropout design, curvature of the fork, how curved the lever is, and is the lever is offset to the side.
>>928080
I just go to the corner and press the pedestrian button.
>>928080
Use a different route
Run it
Do a kobenhavn left
>>926316
havent used the bike in all winter, chain is rusty, should i replace or try to fix it somehow?
>>928080
as at every red light when cycling, treat it like a stop sign: stop (or do a rolling stop/cali stop) to determine if it is safe to cross. when no cars are coming, cross. no need to be slave to traffic law dogma.
if the intersection is really well-travelled to where there's never a break in cross-traffic, they do make heavy-assed magnets for motorcyclists that supposed to trigger the light, but they're heavy.
have you tried bunny hopping or getting off and jumping up and down?
>>928084
>kobenhavn left
the anglophone internet seems to use the term "Copenhagen Left"
all these years of doing them, never knew there was a word for it
>>928087
chains are cheap, just buy a new one
>>928080
Steel is real.
Also, some intersections use headlight sensors at night.
