Hey /an/,
I'm thinking about adopting my first dog pretty soon, and I'd really like an adult dog that's out of it's puppy stage. There's a 7 year old lab and an 8 year old cattle dog mix that I'm interested in. However, everyone is telling me that it's more cost effective to get a younger (3-5 years) dog because all of the money for a senior dog will be spend on vet bills due to increased visits. Is there any truth in this?
old dogs are less healthy but young dogs get old later. it'd be cheapest to get one that's already dead.
>>2014102
Adopt a greyhound
eh, I'd personally go with the cattle dog mix if they didn't have known hip issues cause I adore them and older ones aren't so.. well, neurotic
but regardless I think adopting a slightly older dog is great, especially if you don't have a ton of experience in training. the medical costs can be more, but even in older pets it's not likely they're going to get a really expensive drawn out condition. people dont seem to get that most dogs act quite a bit like puppies until they're 3 or 4
>>2014106
for $250? I mean, it's nice that you only have to let it exercise for half an hour a week and that they don't smell like dogs. Its the cost all the collar that means they don't have to wear a muzzle in public?
>>2014106
I have a cat, and, well, you know how sighthounds are with small animals...
>>2014107
Thanks. The cattle dog mix is about 30 lbs, but I'm wondering if hip issues are associated with size along with breed. I'd make sure to ask for the health certificate of whatever dog I get.
>>2014110
hip issues are associated with cattle dogs (along with pretty much every other breed), and being fat can make it worse. that doesn't mean every one will have horrible hips, but it's just something to have in mind
>health certificate
if you're adopting from a shelter or rescue it doesn't exactly work like that all the time, but you should ask about his/her intake exam and if they found the dog had joint trouble
I guess technically, but you're going to have to pay vet bills eventually anyways, so the only thing you're losing out on is the adoption fee, which if you're adopting is probably not that much money anyways.
Personally I love older dogs and would encourage you to get the lab or cattledog anyways. Or get one and a younger dog.
>>2014106
Couldnt agree more
>>2014108
>it's nice that you only have to let it exercise for half an hour a week
Honestly, that image is exaggerating and they're not doing the dogs any favours by presenting that as the minimum. Greyhounds are pretty laidback and low energy, but like any dog, they're happiest if they get out every day for a stroll or two, they just don't need to be long walks or hard runs. It would be better to present it as a bonus (if something comes up, your greyhound won't eat your house if it occasionally has to miss a walk) rather than telling people they only need to walk it half an hour a week. But they are pretty nice dogs, they're a healthy breed, easygoing and don't tend to be 'difficult' to handle.
Personally, I really like older dogs, but they are certainly more likely to need medication or regular check-ups, which tends to be a small but ongoing cost. Picking up arthritis meds every couple of weeks or getting a check-up every 3/4 months for some condition wouldn't put me off adopting an old dog I clicked with, but it's worth considering all your options now.
Older dogs are the best. All the best parts of having a dog bro with none of the infuriating puppy bullshit.
One of my current dogs was adopted at six. She is a perfect little companion.
>>2014106
They don't need a muzzle in public. It's for racing. Since they've competitive when racing they might nip at the dogs they're running next to and bumping into.
>>2014102
Do they not think the younger dogs will grow to be older?
Yes, they may need more vet visits, but they may be just fine until it's time to croak, also.
>>2014278
I think they're telling me it's more cost-effective to get a younger one because I wouldn't be drowning in vet bills for a dog I'll only have for a while.
When I first started looking at dogs, I considered a greyhound that was good with cats, but I'm worried that one day the chasing instinct would kick in.
Pic semi-related. It's a sheepadoodle. I was thinking about getting one of these, but a mutt from a shelter or rescue is cheaper.
>>2014378
>it's more cost-effective to get a younger one because I wouldn't be drowning in vet bills for a dog I'll only have for a while.
That's not necessarily true. My dads shelter mix died of leukemia at 4. Shelter dogs have an unknown heritage; some will be healthy, some will not.
Are you just hoping to avoid future health care costs?
If that is so, I would suggest adopting an adult or older adult from a good breeder. Often breeders have older dogs for adoption, or they know a breeder that does. Older dogs are sold cheaper, yet dogs that are 5+ and healthy are likely to stay that way. Serious hereditary health problems usually show up between 3-5 years old. If a 5 year old lab has sound hips, it will probably have decent hips until the end (not counting general senior stiffness of course).
If you want to go as cheap as possible, I suggest a small adult dog from a shelter.
>>2014395
>Often breeders have older dogs for adoption
adoption implies that the money paid is a donation to cover the expense of the dog while in the care of the shelter or rescue and not for profit. they are selling dogs for purchase
>>2014516
If pet stores get to say their puppy mill stock is up for adoption, I think people who actually care about their animals should be able to say adopt, too.
>>2014378
Be very wary of designer dogs; breeders are out for a profit with them especially the poodle mixes. Make sure they do health tests needed for all breeds involved
