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Gunpla/Plamo General
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For those unfamiliar, "Plamo" is a shortened form of "plastic model." If it's made of plastic, someone can probably help you here.

>"If you're new, you're gonna fuck up. Don't worry! If you're experienced, don't make the new people worry!"

***READ THE GUIDE***

IRC Channel
>Server
Rizon
>Channel
#gunpla

The guide:
https://docs.google.com/document/pub?id=1Tr8UyF2Xg5Ojqw0sxcO7oIG7IIsJPes3lMO5pHZKu5o

And a handy guide to other types of plamo:
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20(Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step).pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com
Some lineart: http://seesaawiki.jp/nuriesozai/lite/d/MenuBar1
http://gundma.imgur.com/

Paint Matcher: http://scalemodeldb.com/paint

Old thread: >>5713752
>>
Don't remember who suggested it, so I'm gonna take credit for this idea.
Neon yellow laser cut and engraved honeycomb base to replace the boring grey circle kotobukiya provide you with.
>>
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Finalizing my plans for the Grimgerde Zero.

It's a mashup of Zero from the Zero series and X1.

Should the top of the head be grey, red, or white?

Does anyone know of a good method of building the forehead gem? I've never tried using plaplates before.

Also, does anyone know how much Samuel Decal charges for custom decals? I'm planning on creating that Z decal on the X1 version's shoulder.
>>
>>5723907
>building Zaku f2
>shoulder connection to the body is incredibly flimsy
>only make it worse trying to fix it

God damn it, is this really from 2008?
>>
>>5723950

You might be able to find a gem that'll work premade if you look at those gems made for blinging up cell phones and stuff aimed at teenage girls.

For plaplate, I'd think you'd want to stack up triangles to the right height then cut/sand the bevels on the sides in.
>>
>>5723992
sup hamhands
>>
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>>5724230
Sup shitposter
>>
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>>5724189
Thanks for the input. I'll search around for that stuff.
>>
The first time Jim/GM builder here...

I'm trying to get into seem removal and I've been "painting" it on a closed seem but it seems (lol) to have not really made a difference...

This is after two coats, I've also scraped it with my Xcto knife and sanded it... Just looks "okay"
>>
>>5724359

doesn't look like you even welded them
>>
>>5724359
No, you don't 'paint' it onto the seam

You take it apart, apply the cement on the edges of where the parts connect, then put it together. Make sure you put a fuckton of cement, the more the better so you can ensure that it works well. If you use too much then you can just sand it down, but use too little and well, fuck. After assembling, squeeze the part tightly to make sure that the parts really melt together.
>>
>>5724252
S-sauce?
>>
>>5724446
Found it on /cm/
>>
>>5724458
Damn it, I don't want to admit I'm gay by going on that gay board.
>>
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>>5724465
You'll like the bulge thread. Enjoy yourself
>>
>>5723943
she looks impaled on that pin (like an insect, so it kinda fits)
>>
>>5721146
Yeah I thinned the blue for the airbrush and thinned the other colors just a little so they'd brush on easier.

>>5721370
Yeah, I painted his face in and redid the straps in the right color the other night. I'll drop a pic after I finish my omelet and hashbrowns. And maybe waffle.
>>
What do you guys panel line black with? This surprisingly hasn't come up in the 8 kits I've built.
>>
>>5725248
Some people like how silver looks.
>>
>>5725248
I would guess if you panel lined to get a realistic effect look, you just don't unless the plastic/you can't paint the part to be a lighter black/dark grey instead and use black from there.
>>
>>5725248
Tried white/silver/grey/pencil, all looked weird.

I think the best effect is to paint in a lighter shade of black so that you can panel line in pure black.
>>
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>>5725158
>>5721370
Decided to paint the pilot as Radd, because eh, why not.
>>
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I was lucky to get this Gundam, Rezel-A+B DENFENSOR, for $10 at savers a month or so ago. I've been painting miniatures for years and wanted to try a Gundam. Anyway I broke the collapsible abdomen part and had to improvise. I've also had to shave a joint part because it kept rubbing paint off when moved. Here is the first picture
>>
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>>5725324
Here is where I had to shave around a joint circle thing. This is a Master Grade, retails for over $100. Anyone ever had to fix shit to make it work? I've done it several times on miniatures, but these are so much bigger and mistakes are a bitch.
>>
>>5725327
Well, it's usually easier to make clearance on the armor than on the inner frame..
>>
>>5725324
Since I fucked this abdoment up I cannot properly transform it into the space craft. Here is the link to the model https://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Type-C-Defenser-Unicorn/dp/B00L4PKWGW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465540276&sr=8-3&keywords=Bandai+Hobby+ReZEL+Type-C+Defenser+A%2BB+Unit%2FGR+Master+Grade+1%2F100+Gundam+Unicorn+Action+Figure+by+Bandai+Hobby
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>>5725329
I wish, but the area around the circle was rubbing off paint to the plastic.
>>
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>>5725335
Different anon but you probably could have done some kind of coating on the parts paint was getting rubbed off on instead of whatever you did. Also, don't got by Amazon prices. Only P-Bandai MG's should be over 100$, you should buy from sites like HLJ or 1999, and if you would rather order domestically use Hobbywave, which actually has flat shipping.
>>
Just bit the bullet on my first MGs. Grabbed Ball, Char's Zaku 2.0, RX-78 2.0 and Thunderbolt on Pre-order. Did I do good?
>>
>>5725354
I used the same method of washing parts prior to working on them. I sanded and repainted the parts a couple of times before I shave a little off. Everything else is going smoothly and I don't care to transform the thing mostly due to it being a pain in the ass. I went through, assembled the entire gundam and then disassembled the whole thing to be painted.
>>
>>5725361
>Did I do good?
Only if you don't fuck them up while building.
>>
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>>5725364
I probably should have specified topcoat, but whatever
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>>5725379
Topcoat? Its the inner frame, I laid down primer, dried over night, then thin coat of paint, and dried a few hours. Once dried I tested the joint, the leg, by moving it like it's being posed. The result was a streak in the paint caused by rubbing. The part was too tight fitting, needed room to move. I'd hate paint it entirely, topcoat it, and have if scrape all the paint off when I pose it. Box 8 is what I altered.
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>>5725384
Wrong one shit! Here is the right page,
>>
>>5725327
You can't paint transforming suits they will always rub off.
either that or never transform them
>>
>>5725361
Aside from Thunderbolt which I don't care for anyway, I'd say you did well.

The Zaku 2.0 in particular is the bar by which all other MGs should be measured.
>>
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>tried to diy a spray booth
>bought the wrong type of fan
>shelve project due to lack of time
>months later, buy the right fan and fix it up
>its fucking piss weak
>nevermind, I'll just test it out anyway
>pull out airbrush(its a chink one, but works well enough)
>a massive crack along the paint cup probably due to me knocking it off my work table that one time
>i-its ok, it still holds paint well enough
>spray a little lacquer thinner into the booth
>I can still smell it


aaaaaaaaaaaa
>>
>>5725428
>>
>>5725420

Awesome. I'm pretty stoked to start building. Are theMG GP-01 and 02 from Stardust any good? I've got mad nostalgia for that series.
>>
>>5725433
It wasn't too bad when I realised the spraybooth probably wouldnt work, but the chinkbrush getting rekt means that I'll have to shell out even more money for an actual one.

And here I thought I could finally start painting again
>>
>>5725444
just buy that collapsable one on amazon man
>>
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Are you sick of our Gunpla Expo SG updates yet?

New in town is BB Legend Superior Dragon. Its MSRP is same as an RG (53 singbucks) but it is already clearing at 35 sgd. The bling is real.

All exclusives including clear Barbatos, green petit bear guy, etc. are on sale today, onwards, abandoning that exclusives-of-the-week schedule they originally had.

If you're after the petit bear guy stickers, they still have the red design from last week
>>
>>5725510
>tfw missed $35 MG unicorn and proto zero due to work

T...tomorrow restock right?
>>
>>5725438
No, they're ok for the 90s but pretty terrible compared to more modern kits
>>
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>>5725510
Speaking of the Superior Dragon, looks like it's same size as the SDX.

I mean, the Command and Versal Knight BB's scale well with them, so I guess I shouldnt be surprised, I suppose?
>>
>>5725532
Hold the fuck up
35 dollar MG unicorn?
>tfw missing all these sweet deals while looking for work
>tfw will be missing even more due to work

Also where do I keep updated on this shit I don't have the patience to travel to town everyday.
>>
>>5725556
Look up the fb group GUNDAM (SINGAPORE), chances are if there's a sale someone would update.
>>
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I know "Open Camera" is a camera app that gets mentioned here occasionally and I wanted to ask if anyone else has had a problem with shots it takes coming out too dark. Like, noticably darker than they should be.

Also, I finished my Nu colors Dijeh.
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>>5725580
Your phone have HDR? Turn it on.
>>
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>>5725580
Here the same shot taken with the normal camera app.
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>>5725583
Pics are still noticably darker.
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although HLJ's summer sale has been quite boring so far, i should point out this cute as fuck resin tank kit for anyone with metal slug kits, very much the same style as the enemy tanks in the game. 1k yen.

>limit 1 per customer

so no army building unfortunately.
>>
>>5725605

forgot link

http://hlj.com/product/MTUDFT-001/Mil
>>
>>5725397
>You can't paint transforming suits they will always rub off.

you can actually. depends how autistic you get at the prep stage. basically prime, re-assemble then pose the crap out of the kit & transform it a lot. then work on the rubbed & scraped areas by either sanding for clearance, adding felt to one surface of sliding contacting surfaces or resorting to vinyl dye for stuff that will constantly scrape. If a lot of Japanese people can make a fully painted MG EX-S transform without paint scrub you can too. Just not without a lot of work. Far better to find out all the problem areas during the prep/priming stage than later.
>>
>>5725575
>scalping drama
>>
Ordered some Gunpla from Japan.

It's just below £15

They've gone and fucking set it above £15 or exacly £15 so now I have to pay import and customs tax...

... I'm tempted to just refuse the parcel and then do a chargeback with Paypal..

I order because it's cheaper and it won't be if I got charged another £15 on top of this!
>>
>>5725717

what do you do with kits that cost more than 15pounds? wont gundam cost you twice as much locally anyway? i'm in nz and send a lot of stuff to my sister in the u.k, your importing laws suck balls. Yet its cheap as fuck for me to buy stuff from the u.k and import it here.
>>
>>5725740

I got horribly addicted to Smiths Bacon Fries. I found a place i could import boxes of 24. Damn you england and your stupidly good snacks.
>>
>>5725605
>>5725606
>Backordered
>2500yen
Too late

That said, there is still a bunch of 1/144 resin military kits on sale, if you're into that sort of thing.
>>
>>5725384
>>5725385
Just use some lacquer top coat. Testor's wet look clear cures like it's fucking plastic.
>>
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Finished my Altron
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My display
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>>5725835
>http://hlj.com/product/MTUDFT-001/Mil

damn, that went fast. There is another SD tank kit on sale but its a lot bigger. around 1/35th scale or bigger size so wouldnt fit with the slug kits. Looks like fun to paint though.

http://hlj.com/product/MENMVE-001/Mil
>>
>>5725874
That looks surprisingly good
>>
I ordered a couple of those 1/144 zoids kits fromn the HLJ sale. Sheild Liger Mk2 and Zaber.

I've heard they're pretty small but they look cool.
>>
So I want to build some other mecha kit other than Gundam. Does any1 have any good suggestions???
I'm currently eyeballing the the Shiranui type II bridges custom since it's on sale. Any good mech kits are appreciated, but try and keep it under 2000 yen.
>>
>>5726208
I would recommend the 1/144 FSS kits since I think their designs are great but the kits aren't the best (need cement and paint).
>>
>>5726208
anything Kotobukiya makes
>>
>>5726208
>>5726217
just noticed
>but try and keep it under 2000 yen
haha nvm
>>
>>5725397
Fuck me. I thought they were all able to be painted.
>>
>>5726245
They can be, but if it's a transforming one, you're gonna have to pick a mode and stick with it.
>>
>>5725627
Yeah, just these leg pieces are rubbing, but sanding them down has not negatively effected the parts that go over them (being the inner frame work). Still looks good to me.
>>
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Are there any 1/100 kits with the testament's head crest? Just checking before I have to start getting with plaplate
>>
>>5726335
That's custom. Get cutting! You might be able to shave down some other ones but I've never seen another kit with a v fin like that
>>
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What is the difference between a P3 and A2P3 filter? On guide in the OP I see a suggested A2P3 filter but wikipedia talks only of P3 filters.

And here http://www.rsgsafety.com/products/product/a2p3-filter I read
>A: Organic Gases and Vapors
>B: Inorganic Gases and Vapors
So should I buy a "B" filter for paint?
>>
>>5726208
>but try and keep it under 2000 yen.

Mechatro WeGo.
>>
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>>5726534
Specifically the ones from Hasegawa. The Sentinel ones are pre-built figures.
>>
I bought three pairs of these.
Guess how many individual hands I managed to break?

Too late, I broke 5 out of 6. I salvaged two pairs using fingers from other broken hands, but it was kind of ridiculous. When I cut them up to extract the fingers, I had to snip connections from inside the hands. They were attached pretty much like a piece would be to a sprue.
>>
>>5725438
They're good for their time, but at this point decades later their engineering is comparable to only modern high grades.
>>
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how
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>>5726564
Is this bait? Aren't these one of those fancy RG frame-like runners that have articulation built in? You can even see in that picture the manual specifically states where to cut and where not to, as its basically preassembled, breaking off the fingers is basically breaking the part

also thank fucking god we're back
>>
>>5726617
The problem was that the molding connections inside the ball-joints were to thick. Instead of snapping the connections inside, the finger would twist off the ball.
>>
>>5726629
That just means the QC is shit.
>>
Hey gang, looking to take my first dive into painting, been reading guides and checking paints but haven't found any info on something

I've got a junker transformer that I bummed for some parts and thought itd be fun to repaint it but none of the guides I've seen mention much about painting over already painted figures aside from giving them a good gentle scrub to remove any oils or chemicals

Is there any specifics needed to be taken besides that before painting a fig that already has some aps?
>>
>>5726662
Primer.
>>
>>5725717
You can either argue it with customs or decline the parcel and send it back, paypal will check the tracking though and might give you grief if they find out you declined it.
>>
Can someone repost purple Zeta C1? I'd like to show my friend
>>
>>5726766
You know the old thread is linked in the OP, right?
>>
>>5726796
I didnt even know it was in the old thread, my bad
>>
I've been seam welding the old Gouf HGUC as a first paint attempting model. What color would I prime it to paint it in desert colors like yellows and browns if it's blue? White should do the trick, right?
>>
>>5726972
I always found that black primer works really well for most colours
>>
>>5726986
I can check on runners to test, still going to wait for more responses if anyone has them since I'm in no rush to paint it.
>>
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Worst Seed MG kit.
>>
>>5726995
Black is a pain the ass to paint over, just get some grey primer like Mr. Surfacer then use a fine white primer to give a solid white base to paint over.
>>
>>5726986
Only for medium to darker colors. For more vibrant colors, especially white, red, and yellow, you will want to use a light grey or white primer as anything else bleeds through and darkens them.
>>
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>>5719624
and done.

Now I can dump my leftover resin somewhere other that the trash.
>>
>>5727152
That's cool. Man, I wish I knew how to make resin copies of gunpla parts.
>>
>>5727152
Neat.
>>
I'm really bad at cutting styrene card. Trying to get straight edges is a nightmare.
>>
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>>5727356

Maybe invest in a ruler cutter?
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>>5727356
Lucky you, I'm bad at cutting straight anything
>>
>>5727361
Would those be strong or sharp enough to cut through styrene?
>>
>>5727045
>>5727052
Primer anon here. I have some cans of Rustoleum since it's locally available and there's not many hibby shops here.
I've never heard of using two types of primer before. But this is a generic primer, not one meant for the hobby. I don't know how well using it twice on one model would go, it's thicker than most hobby primers are.

>People with access to Mr products
Lucky bastards.
>>
>>5727402
Can't you just run an xacto blade along a ruler?
>>
>>5727402
If it's thin enough, yes. I'm not speaking from experience, but I have considered buying one of those cutters before.

>>5727431
My problem is with how uneven the edge can be when I snap the cut piece away from the sheet. I usually do some light sanding to even it out, but that can mess up my measurements if I take too much off.
>>
>>5727437
Maybe try a different blade when cutting the edge? Something to roll along the sheet like a carving blade might be a bit moe even?
>>
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I'm not sure if this is Max Factory's Gipsy Danger PlaMo or another Pacific Rim toy line.
>>
>>5727455
Its gypsy.
>>
>>5727462
Gipsy Danger isn't a gypsy, Anon.
>>
>>5727455
Gunpla noob here.

I don't suppose anyone makes model kits for the Pacific Rim mechs? I actually liked that movie.
>>
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How would you approach the scratchbuilding of the back parts of this tank from the Zaku the Ground War set? Thin copper wire or thin styrene rods? If I use copper wire, how should I glue the parts to the plastic?

My goal is to have a similar back part, but hollow, without the plastic between the supports (or whatever those things are called in a tank).
>>
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>>5727022
How is Duel Gundam's MG? I want it but the price is a bit off turning and I'm pretty bad when it comes to losing parts on my MG (2 of my Geara Doga's spikes are MIA).
>>
Does anyone have the Hanged Man and C03 Blue Magnolia plamo from Kotobukiya? How are they?
>>
>>5727514
That show was pretty fun.
>>
>>5727511
>If I use copper wire, how should I glue the parts to the plastic?
Clean it with dish washer soap, sand it, clean it again, apply a small amount of super glue
>>
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Well hello, whats this?

Hydra gundam? And its only $10?
>>
>>5727593
You either got lucky, or it's a KO.
>>
>>5727617
Its a us hobbyshop that gets their stock from official distributors. So lucky I guess. Picked up both the G-unit kits. Too bad the one that turns into a zgok wasn't there. Was really tempted to snag 1/100 hg altron as well
>>
>>5727514
Where is that gif from?
>>
>>5727641
Ping Pong it looks like.
>>
>>5727593

It's called Hydra Gundam because it's got 2 Gouf faces on the sides of its head, isn't it?
>>
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>>5727511
Normally this kind of thing is done with photo etch but since nobody will bother making it for a babby-tier bandai kit, I'd say go with styrene strips. They are much easier to work with and to paint.
>>
>>5727699
Multiple faces, yeah. It also turns into not!Zeong.
>>
>>5727712
>Normally this kind of thing is done with photo etch but since nobody will bother making it for a babby-tier bandai kit
Yeah, when I saw the piece I thought "too bad it is not a 'real' tank kit".
Anyway, it think I will try with styrene.
>>
>>5727715
>>5727712
On the 1/35 it is PE.
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>>5727726
1/35 ain't babby tier.
>>
>>5727714

That seems equal parts dumb and radical.
>>
>>5725874
How did you build the tail?
>>
>>5727766
Have you seen its Zeong head? It looks like it's screaming angrily at you, I love it.
>>
>>5727766
It gets even stupider/better when you find out that in-universe it is based directly off of the tallgeese. Not based off of in the way all ms in Wing technically are, but in a more direct sense.
>>
I screwed up. I was mixing colours for the first time for my first airbrushed kit. Been using Mr.Hobby acrylics, got the colours just right but like a moron I put Mr.Leveling thinner in instead of acrylic thinner. Can I get away with it, or do I have to make up a new batch?
>>
>>5727879
You could always try testing out how it goes on a runner or something.
>>
>>5727778
It's probably taken from the old 1/100 kit
>>
>>5727514
anybody?
>>
Do you scratchbuild the bases for your diorams or do you buy them?
>>
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>>5727514
MG Duel is excellent and totally worth the $44 it's going for on Amazon right now.
>>
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BEHOLD, A WEAPON TO SURPASS METAL GEAR
>>
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>>5727593
I actually found all the G-Unit kits at my local hobby town for 10 bucks a pop.
>>
>>5728053
Today is the day, trains learn to walk upright
>>
>>5727514
Duel is second best Seed MG kit after Strike RM.

Assault shroud hip/crotch armour is kind of a pain, but easily fixed with some glue/cement.
>>
>>5728065
I get the feeling that the others were there but got bought up already. I'll hit up the other store tomorrow and see if they got them in too.
>>
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>cant find my grey paint

*sigh*

Finally started the GN Archer, but then cant find grey paint for the details.

Fucking cancelled! Never gonna build this thing! NEVER!.

>>5728065
I keep hearing they got a reprint not too long ago but can never find then anywhere. I saw the Griepe at my local hobby store ages ago, but no thanks. Only want the Aesculapius and Hydra.

I had the whole set except the Geminass 02 when I was in elementary school, all bootlegs (Ben Di), and Griepe was my least favourite.
>>
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>>5728283
>he doesn't like griepe
>>
>>5728338
The only thing the Griepe is good for is making Irish wine.

Seriously though, after the glory of the Aescy, Hydra and LO Booster, the Griepe felt ehhh.

Maybe if I build it now, I'd get more out of it (lol, Gerwalk mode) but I'd only bother if I can get the whole set.
>>
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Finished my Buster Gundam, my first attempt at painting every sticker that wasn't a camera or eyes and other small details. I think it turned out pretty good, besides the rifle scope where some paint dripped into the seam and I need to clean it up.
>>
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>>5727778
The back is just taken from the old HG 1/100 kit. It was like 15 bucks, and there's no way I was going to scratch build it. All I did was drill in a new peg for it to attach to the MG backpack. And also super glue that peg in, because that pack is heavy.

My only real problems with the stinger are that it doesn't have that many points of articulation, and that it cannot tilt back, it can only bend forward.

On a side note, the HG 1/100 Altron came with the Shenlong beam glaive, but without the effects part. I'm thinking of making the beam out of green translucent clay and giving it to my MG Shenlong.
>>
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>>5728369
HG Griepe's main problem is that the unlike the lineart the waist hangs out of the top partinstead of collapsing into the top part in MA mode which just looks awkward.
>>
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>>5728477
A sticker sheet to surpass G Reco AND GBF
>>
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>>5728478
nah that shit is nothing
>>
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>>5728486
>>5728477
You're smalltime
>>
>>5728497
Holy shit, what kit is that?
>>
>>5728513
pbandai dryon III
>>
>>5728516
pic?
>>
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>>5728551
>>
>>5728569
Why does this exist?

Literally, what is it's purpose?
>>
>>5728618
Do you not know about the frequent occurrence of black/gold repaints of super robot toys? Going back decades?
>>
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Started work on the Griepe, think I might use the vent stickers since I'm fairly certain the other ones will gunk up like those two, and I might lightly sand the white off the v fin and the back considering its a lot thicker than I would like.
>>
>>5728689
Thinning the paints you're using should also help.
>>
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>>5728704
I did finally get some thinner, I think I just put on too much, considering these look just fine.
>>
>>5728711
Don't think too much paint thinner makes the pain too that chunky, maybe it wasn't mixed enough? Regardless, some masking tape might also help you out; it'll give you crisper lines.
>>
>>5728713
I meant put too much paint on, and I had actually forgot about my masking tape, thanks for reminding me.
>>
Do Kotobukiya kits still have shitty polycaps that tear at the leg joints and shit?

Also, when are toy and model manufacturers going to realize that nylon constrained inside of hard plastic is the best way to create a tight, durable joint?
>>
>>5727455
source
>>
>>5727482
>I don't suppose anyone makes model kits for the Pacific Rim mechs?
not yet
>>
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>>5728477
>>5728486
>>5728497
I'LL NOW SHOW YOU MY TRUE POWER
>>
>>5728774
N-NANI??
>>
>>5728774
Valvrave sticker sheet is not fair at all.

I could post the Nobunaga the Fool sticker sheet, but it's just overkill.
>>
>>5727482
To clarify on >>5728767

Megahouse has shown off prototypes for Gipsy and Cherno, but no release date. And Gipsy's was first shown off over a year ago.
>>
>>5728794
>Megahouse

I mean Max Factory.
>>
>>5728788

do it faggot
>>
>>5728774
S...SO FAST?!
>>
>>5728788
i didn't even know obunaga had kits
>>
>>5728809
Just one of the main robot. And it has a fuckton of stickers.
People complained about VVV kits, but those are nothing compared to The Fool.
>>
>>5725361
Why do you ask did I do good? Like why do you need others validation? You are weak one anon
>>
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Lift the Neo Zeong
Hold it there
Last one standing wins......

Mg strike freedom on the table.
>>
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>>5728922
Damn doing frontal raises with your kits, trully gunpla is freedom.
I wish I was there, I bet I could out lift all those DYELS and take home that strike freedumbs.
>>
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>order 1/144 knight of gold earlier today
>checked order then
>in stock
>check now
>backordered
Has this ever happened to any of you guys? What happened? Also arm.
>>
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First serious painted gunpla. Pretty pleased with the results. Still need to top coat. It there any special way I need to airbrush allclad matte on? Currently just future on top. Also do you guys future your beam sabers? Or just leave it alone.
>>
>>5729028
shit lighting so its hard to see what did. But it looks good, air brush?

I never detail my beam parts if that's what you're asking. I didn't like the effect of adding white to the base, beams look better OTB I think.
If you're asking if I pose my kits with their beam parts, yes, there's tons of dynamic poses you can do with beam sabers and stuff.
>>
Can someone with a MG Full Armor Unicorn tell me how long the fuel tanks are?
>>
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>>5729038
Looks good yo.
>>
>>5729038
Nya~
>>
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Sunday project, building my spoon library, flirting with cancer
>>
>>5728470

Isn't the EW Altron a P-Bandai or something? Those fuckers are expensive.
>>
>>5727901
Results are in, it's not looking good. The paint appears to go on ok, but then starts to recede noticeably, leaving gaps and thin areas.
>>
guys i have a question... im planning to build my first MG kit soon. i've noticed Bandai produced separate LED units for light effects on some of these kits. is there a way to check which MG kits are compatible with these LED units? so far i only know MG Jegan, Geara Doga, Exia and 00.
>>
>>5729285
It will usually have it on the box which kits are compatible.
>>
>>5729228
yeah, well I live in Japan, if I was smart I'd pre-order because from Bandai its reasonable. But P-Bandai isn't sold in stores, so if you miss out, 4 months later you're going to be raped by scalpers.

I was thinking to just buy the MG Shenlong and kitbatsh it with the HG Nataku, but the price wasn't that different than just buying the MG Altron, so I just did that. Also yeah, no S&H or customs add on. It must be 5 times worse over seas.
>>
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Hello, planning on getting a resin kit from E2046,

1/35 Madox (http://www.e2046.com/p/MADOX-01+Slave+Trooper/18205/)

Just wondering if there's anyone who makes tiny joints for PLAMO as I'd like to have this kit somewhat.. articulated?

I've got tiny Rare Earth Magnets in mind for swivel joints but won't work if I was to have different range of movements
>>
>>5729305
Both Kotobukiya and Bandai make joints. Look up the HGBF Ballden Arms for Bandai (it's for gunpla) and Poly Unit for Kotobukiya.
>>
>>5727879
>>5729258
Just did a test on actual pieces with the proper acylic mix. It may well be the case that my technique was the main concern. Having never air brushed colours before (just the undercoat), I had a tendency to blast it on. Trying this with the acrylic created the same results I had with the screwed up mix albeit with less thin areas and receding. I've already thrown the bad mixes so I'll never know, but it may have been possible to get away with using them with multiple very thin coats.

It's been a learning experience though, some good practice. I also found out just how little paint you actually need for good coverage (I was using a dark colour though). I can understand why some brushes come with those tiny cups, a little goes a long way.
>>
>>5729305
Avoid e2046 like the plague for anything mecha.
their QC is dreadful and their molds appear to be made of bubblegum
>>
>>5729480
There aren't a lot of options out there man, especially for older kits. Pretty sure hobbyfan isn't much better and their stock is barren
>>
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Gonna make paint the gusion to look like Smough, who should Ornstein be? Graze Carta with lance or Kimaris?
>>
>>5729480
>he can't fix resin
boo hoo
>>
>>5729305
Go and take a loot at WAVE catalog. They make a lot of resin kits and they have a line all for joints, polycaps and stuff like that to improve models.
You will have a wider range of choices than what you can get from Koto and Bandai alone.
>>
>>5729528
Kimaris Trooper Def.
>>
SO I wanna buy a nice MG kit but don't know which kits are any good. I'm currently eyeballing the Strike Noir but since it's an olden kit I don't know if it's any good.
Also my other option is the RX-78-2 ORIGIN version.
I'd like a new kit since the engineering is better the past years compared to older kits but all suggestions are appreciated.
>>
>>5729605
Some kits were ahead of its time in terms engineering for the year it was made in, The Dom is one of those kits i suggest you get it if you can find one.
>>
Can I spray future straight out of an airbrush or does it need to be thinned?
>>
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The first time GM builder here...

Started the Jesta, I've already messed up...

... Does it look bad?
>>
>>5729612
Depends. Some people have no problem shooting it unthinned through an airbrush. Others have "pebling" issues where it dries bumpy. For that I've seen people suggest adding a drop or two of iso alcohol or dish soap.
>>
>>5728283
Just buy it directly from bluefin's secret site
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFVLP

They have had lots of free shipping and other promo deals in the past. Got efreet re 1/100 for $30 free shipping recently
>>
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Thinking of making a Freedom custom color with a 1.0 Freedom but I'm having a hard time deciding on the scheme.
I'm thinking
White -> Light blue
Dark Blue -> Navy Blue
Blue = Light blue on body, wings?
Red = Gold or Yellow
Gray = chrome/silver/grey perhaps
Frame = Gold or gunmetal

The wings are hard to decide though, don't want the make the blue there light blue, perhaps gold/yellow?
>>
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>>5729642
Reminds me of katoki's version of the harrison f91.
>>
>>5729645
hmm, might be a good base to add whites from
>>
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>>5729642
>>
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>>5729645
And the yellow feet look like the original.
>>
Is the MG Freedom 2.0 that good? I've heard from people that it's really good.
>>
>>5729661
>Is the MG Freedom 2.0 that good?
>>5729661
>I've heard from people that it's really good.
>>
>>5729619
A drop of windex will help.

>>5729612
Don't thin it, it's already way more watery than you'd want for airbrushing. It's like water whereas you'd want milky consistency for airbrushing. Just turn down pressure and do a single wet coat.
>>
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got the inner frame of the Hi Nu complete
quite different from the Nu
this time I will start with the bottom armor and going up, leaving the head for last
>>
>>5729714
I fucking love fat Hi-nu. Keep posting progress
>>
>>5729723
oh trust me, it will be fucking fat with the HWS add on
>>
>>5729685
Your point being?
>>
>>5729766
You answered your own question, dipshit.
>>
Are there any non-Gundam plamo kits that match gunpla's level of engineering?
I just looked over a review of the origin and it is insane. More dynamic than any action figure of anything you could ever buy.
That's why I'm curious.
>>
>>5729784
In a word, no. Bandai went leaps and bounds beyond other manufacturers when it comes to the engineering side. And when you say non-Gundam plamo, do you mean other mecha or just any type of plamo kit?
For mecha, Wave and Kotobukiya have some decent engineering (for newer stuff) but it's nowhere near Bandai.
For traditional scale models, Tamiya kits have equal or better levels of detail, and a lot of engineering DOES go into new molds, but it's nothing like Bandai.
>>
>>5729813
Yeah I meant any kind of plastic model.
Thanks for the infodump.
>>
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>>5729813
To add to this, there was one Five Star Stories kit recently, by Volks, that looks to be really nicely engineered. It took them 5 years to produce it: the IMS LED Mirage V3. It's also sold out at retail and kinda pricey in secondary market. I think there was a limited version with a metal sword or something, maybe another anon can help me out here, I thought someone here got one.
>>
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>>5729642
Updated some things, tried some more white on the right side, but I'm worried the white and yellow/gold will feel too much Strike Freedom without the light/navy Blue
>>
>>5729942
woah

faggot from snapfit's thread here,
it actually looks good now
>>
>>5726564
this guy found a way to unstick the fingers without breaking
https://www.zhuatieba.com/video/XODkzMTUyNjk2

with one hand, you grab hold of the palm where the ball meet the finger;
with ur other hand, your grab the finger where the ball joint meet the palm. then push.
basically you apply force on the ball instead of the peg.

there is a guy on taobao who sell this hand pre-cut, so you don't have to break em.

but yea, quality of plastic is nothing compare to bandai
>>
Have any of you guys ever not been able to pay for an order on HLJ after you get the payment request? I'm assuming I could just send them an email about it and they would cancel the order. I've read that something can happen to your account if you don't pay within 3 days.
>>
>>5729951
thanks, shoulders, chest and midriff looks really good now, but I'm unsure about the wings, feet and limbs though. If I go with a yellow frame I probably can't have any yellow on the feet.

Really want the beam sabers to be navy though, gonna steal the yellow beam sabers from the Char's Gelgoog 2.0 and stick them on, think that will look damn good
>>
>>5729617
What am I supposed to be looking at
>>
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Finished the shoulder vents, the open with the top halves for the shoulder armor gimmick. They are on the back sides as well. I think they will look nice all blended in. I'm happy with how this guy is coming along so far.
>>
>>5730002
Ditch the yellow frame. It looks gaudy and overdone on the strike freedom and it looks the same on this. Maybe add some color o the legs, lie making the side parts of the lower leg blue.
>>
>>5730011
It's coming along great man. Do you live in the US? I have to say, if you finish this by fall you should consider at least entering it in the online entry for the GBWC. It costs nothing to enter online and all you have to do is fill out a form and submit a few pictures.
>>
>>5730021

Yeah I really should do that, do you know what the deadline is?
>>
>>5730033
It should be listed with the other rules and contest dates on the Bluefin site.
>>
Do I get an MG Zaku and RX-78-2 Gundam or HG?

I hear the HG Zaku II Origin and RX-78-2 Revive are great, what are the MG contrasts?
>>
>>5730040
Zaku II 2.0 (Get the F type one IMO for best generic zaku) and for MG Rx-78-2 there are a bunch. The 2.0 for the classic anime look (Pairs best with the zaku 2.0), OYW for the detailed version, 3.0 fr detail and modern look, and Origin for an alternate interpretation of it.
>>
Gonna paint my 1/100 graze once i get the two Graze Kai kits and give it the leg boosters and back sword rack since i prefer the back skirt thrusters over the backpack thrusters. What colors do you recommend for either a winterized version or a desert version?
>>
>>5730058
>winterized version
White, with gray accents.

>desert version
Light brown, darker accents.
>>
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FUCK
>>
>>5730060
how about visor color?
>>
>>5730074

KEIKS


also, what?
>>
>>5730074
>>5730136
I'm assuming the bent peg on the left section.
Did something happen to it, or was it a manufacturing error?
>>
>>5729784
Probably not. Though if you are talking about details there are other kits like the hmm zoids that have an incredible amount.

What's impressive how they can still keep the cost down.
>>
>>5730074
>Cut peg
>Put runner in
>Cement

Dummy.
>>
reposting:
I thought it was the thinner that damages bare plastic but a part I panel washed with enamel paint and lighter fluid was breaking apart. Anyone else experience this? Though I might've been using too much paint.
>>
So guys, I was thinking up another group build. This time with a small twist of a price pack. It'd be something from me, a stand, an HG GM Sniper K9, and perhaps a pot or two of paint or a set of paint jars.

Problems.
1. What do we do for the build (I'm largely out of ideas (I'll list mine below)).
2. How's judging going to go? Does it stay with me, do we do a council of builders, or do we do voting?
3. Shipping. Shipping to Asia, SEA, and Europe in general will probably get expensive. Are there a lot of people who'd be interested in those areas?

My only real idea is HG GM group build (which does go along nicely with the Sniper K9).
>>
>>5730462
I think a GM group build would be good. We could have a custom MSV thing, with compulsory back stories. We could also do a "Coldsteel Stop Showing Everyone My Deviantart Kevin' group build.
>>
>>5730462
Digging the idea of a GM build.
>>
>>5730470
1. Group builds with one base are good, but I feel I've seen that as the topic for most. I'd kinda like to see custom versions of whatever you want and if your execution is good (eg Wing Gundam > Wing Gundam Fenice, X > X Maoh) like build fighters without being too different.
2. I've lurked here for a couple years and I still don't know if there's regulars that are respected builders to be judges. If there are, that'd be great though. I'd only ask that creativity not being the sole or too huge of a criteria as a very well done weathered and painted build is still great.
3. Can't say on this.

This is just my two cents though. Thanks for trying to host a new group build though, GGuy. Even having a prize is mighty generous.
>>
>>5730505
There are a few builders here whos opinions I'd respect. They most stay anon but we could always work something about through IRC or otherwise.

Also one of the reasons I left that as "Build and HG GM" is because I considered telling people to do a custom, but on the same note I like well built normal builds just as much as I like custom stuff. More so, to be honest. I'm not really a fan of those clusterfucks that win the Asian GBWCs. They're technically well done and I can appreciate it, but man, it just seems...off.
>>
>>5730512
Oh cool, I just realized there's an IRC and I guess that's how the regulars talk.

And agreed. Like it's cool and impressive and all if you can add all those details and parts, and do them well, and make them look over the top cool, but there's a lot to be said about a good old-fashioned build that was treated like other military plamo to bring out the design and lore of a kit. Maybe it's just me actually thinking of kits like miniature versions of giant robots rather than robot toys.
>>
>>5730505
>I'd kinda like to see custom versions of whatever you want and if your execution is good (eg Wing Gundam > Wing Gundam Fenice, X > X Maoh) like build fighters without being too different.

I'd be up for this if only so people won't have to go out of their way to get another kit and can finally work on their backlogs. And by people I mainly mean me
>>
>>5730512
>>5730611
The problem with a straight build competition is that narrows down the choices. The ultimate deciding factor there would be "can you weld seams, paint and scribe panels to give it more detail". It's purely skill based, so those with more money or years in the hobby are sure to win.

Whereas with a custom and general GM build at the same time you're allowed to do a great straight build, but also allowed to do things like Plaplate and extra weaponry. It allows a skill gap to be somewhat less of a factor if you've got a really great idea.

You can do what you want, but that's my take on it.
>>
>>5730611
IRC has been around like...5 years I think? I literally can't remember how long at this point. I know it's been up since before I got my job about three years ago.

>>5730643
>>5730639
Yeah, that's where my biggest problem is coming from. Do we do this as pure straight build, or open customs? I feel like there's a middle ground somewhere in there. Maybe something like you can only use some percentage of another kit? Probably going to have to put that to a vote.

Also, if this ends up being popular enough to go forward, I would DEFINITELY need some verification of some sort. Probably just some time stamped WIP pics.
>>
>>5730658
Maybe a UC-only thing? Or general Federation suits build? With "just grunts" it gets very much up to personal interpretation, some people wouldn't consider, say, Jesta or Stark Jegan grunts because they're customized. But other would, and might attempt to do something similar. And while Ground Gundam is titled Gundam it's mainly a Ground GM, leading to more confusion and bickering.
>>
>>5730701
Yeah if I'm deciding it's going to be purely GM based, not a general grunt or Feddy type deal. I usually run with "if it's got GM in the title you're good." kind of deal.
>>
>>5730706
Why not just GM line in general to include suits like the Jegan and Heavygun?
Thread replies: 255
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