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Scale Model Kit Thread
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This thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resin) models kits.
-Post photos of your builds in progress and your finished builds
-Have your builds critiqued or critique others
-Discuss tips and techniques
-Ask for advice or give advice to others

Some helpful guides to get started:
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20%28Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step%29.pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com/

Previous Thread >>5627289
>>
I heard Hornby, the Airfix guys, could completely tank in a month or so and are selling off their brand rights, Airfix included.
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>>5663178
Ok.
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>>5663178
>Airfix
Who cares?
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>>5663178
>Airfix
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>>5663178
I heard that too.
>>5663225
>>5663277
What's the issue? Modern Airfix kits are good for the price.
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saw this for only 8 quid on amazon and im wondering if I should get it, is it a good kit?

Also, would metal T-72 tracks in 1:35 work on this model too?
>>
>>5663359
For 8 quid it's worth it.

I built their Zlc-2000 and it was a lovely kit
>>
>>5663359
Get it for that price. Its an 1:35 tank for a lower price than most 1:72 kits.. why are you even asking.
>>
>>5663359
Get it. It doesn't use T-72 tracks.
>>
>>5663384
>>5663405
>>5663411
Cheers lads, appreciate it
>>
>>5663317
not them in my experience airfix is mediocre at best
>>
>>5663566
Their old stuff is shite but the more recent releases are okay.

At £6.00 for a 1/72 plane with fairly good detail and fit I'm not complaining.
>>
>>5663578
fair enough. That being said I've not used and airfix kit in about 12 years I switched to tamiya 1/35
>>
so I asked in the last thread but I'll ask again

I want to paint a scheme similar to this(where there is a soft change from one camo color to another), I doubt I'm good enough to free hand something like this so I was wonder how well does masking than softening the edges with an airbrush work versus having the mask held slightly above the kit than airbrushed over?
>>
>>5663566
modern Airfix are good kits which have great fitting

I would probably recommend the modern Airfix bf 109 to anyone who's looking to build their first kit
>>
>>5663566
>>5663317

There is nothing wrong with Airfix as a cheap beginners alternative to all the expensive AAA kits. No need for 12 year old boys to waste $60 kits.
Airfix (and Revell) serve perfectly well as entry gate to the hobby. Their kits aren't that bad, and good modellers can still get a decent result and at the same time they are simple enough for children too.
>>
>>5663831
Similar to what exactly?
How about you practice the stuff you are suggesting on a piece of paper or so? That will give you all the answers you need.
>>
>>5663831
>I doubt I'm good enough to free hand something like this so I was wonder how well does masking than softening the edges with an airbrush work versus having the mask held slightly above the kit than airbrushed over?
what the fuck are you asking?
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>>5663359
My friends been working on that exact kit right now. The bronco one is better but if you can get this for 8 pounds, then by all means go for it

>>5663831
If you have a good airbrush then soft edges are really easy. There are heaps of tutorials in books, magazines and online with different methodologies. This scheme was painted freehand and it was the guys second attempt at airbrushing
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>>5663277
they are very decent models for 7 dollar price tag.
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>>5663969
>>5663935
forgot image sorry
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>>5664267
Thats a pretty good kit your friend has done.
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>>5664982
If you have a 0.2mm needle or smaller, use it. To minimize overspray, work with low pressure (approx. 20 psi or lower, experiment a bit)
Thin your paint and try on something else than your model to freehand your camo.
It may be helpful to make a sketch how it should look like.
>>
How to produce realistic dust and dirt with pastels/pigments? I have a basic set of pastel chalks at my disposal, as well as a selection of brushes and thinners.
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>>5664982
i would just use sausages for that anon
>>
>>5665664
this post saved me a lot of work
>>
okay guys, sorry to bother you all with this, but I really like modelling and the small plastics ones and im having some trouble finding 1:144 WW2 models. Tanks, planes, trains, you name it.

I know that alot of detail is lost, and that ill probably be shouted at not doing models 1:72 and under but ive hit a stump and cant see to find any manufacturers doing that particular size anymore. Anyone got any leads?

On another note, whats a solid cheap 1:72 model plane manufacturer? Hearing subpar things about airflix, wanna get myself a 190 D-9. Economy is paramount sadly, so if someone could please point me in the right direction!
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>>5665652
Grind them on a piece of sand paper, then attach them with a little bit of X-20A or equivalent thinner for your paint coat. They wont have much of a 3D effect since theyre just chalk but it wont look too bad.

>>5665728
1:144 is a really difficult scale to find, especially for ww2 where the vehicles are so much smaller than modern equipment.

New Airfix is easily passable, I like way their kits come together. Other good 1/72 manufacturers are Tamiya, Academy and some of the new Trumpeter stuff. Academy has a D9 in 1:72. Avoid the Airfix D9 if you find one, it's pretty horrible.
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Just got this 1:72 F-15
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>>5663152
Hey guys do any of you know if you can buy replacement/spare tracks? I built tamiya tanks but never painted them and now I'm looking to paint them but I'd have to cut the rubber tracks.

Anyone know if there is a site that provides tracks/parts that are for sale?
>>
>>5668559
Why cut the rubber tracks you could repaint the tracks with flat black you know
>>
>>5668906
Just call Tamiya and ask for replacement tracks. They replace kit parts for free.

That, or look up some aftermarket tracks using scalemates, or just search for them on a retail store like spruebrothers.
>>
Can anyone recommend any good scale model youtubers?
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Started my Vickers Medium, hope to finish it tomorrow and undercoat it
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>>5669663
Certainly not this guy.
He may have improved a bit over time, but his skills are... still lacking in certain areas.
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>>5669690
Looking good, man.

As you're starting your kit, my project is slowly coming to a close.
I Pastel-weathered the lower Hull the last few days. I figured that most of the dirt would be where the soldiers walk around.
Next up is the Superstructure, and then it gets loaded with seven rockets.
>>
>>5669663
paul budzik is a must.

international scale modeller, genesis models and florry models, all useful for reviews and new products.

you will find a lot of channels that document building whole kits from start to finish.

tehres so much out there that doesn't take that long to find if you bother to look.
>>
>>5669714
It's really hard to imagine that it's 1:72
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>>5669709
STFU QDC IS BAE
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>>5669663
https://www.youtube.com/user/MakingModelsAgain
This guy is BASED
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>>5669718
It's not. It's 1/35th
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>>5669719
>>
>>5669726
Please
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>>5669709
>>5669716
>>5669725
Thanks a lot guys
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>>5669734
I guess the joke flew over my head didn't it?
>>
>>5669663
https://www.youtube.com/user/MakingModelsAgain

Very good channel for beginners, also comfy as fuck to watch.
>>
>>5669893
Whoops, didn't see this one.
>>5669725
>>
>>5669663
dr faust painting clinic is cool but he's more /tg/
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>>5665728

Zvezda make a lot of 144th stuff as do A Model and Academy.

Airfix's 190 is actually pretty good but it's an A-8 not a D-9 so it might not be that much use to you. Still probably one of the cheaper options on the market.
>>
>>5670188
Im having some trouble tracking Zvezdas 144 line, at least here in Aus. Are you sure the rest of their models are of a good quality? I bought the 1:144 model LaGG-3 and it wasnt too good, it was a snap together one though.
>>
>>5670263

Well, they're designed for wargaming. Also, considering the size of a single engined fighter in 144th you're not going to see particularly complicated construction or high parts count. Also, injection plastic has its limitations.

If you're after higher detail and such then you're going to have to start looking at multimedia kits, but as you've already said you're on a budget so that's probably out of the question.
>>
>>5670985
Damn, well do you have any recommendations for cheap alternatives? Or am I just shit out of luck?
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>>5671033
Revell and Dragon meke some nice 1/144 planes but they're jets. Revell's F/A-18 is very good.
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>>5671104
I have a Dragon 1/144 Tiger, its a very nice little model. Their 1/144 tanks models are very old now though, I can only find them in the bargain bin section of my local hobbies store. How are Dragons models all round?
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>>5668906
I thought that but my hands are shaky so I was worried about brush control. Looks like I'll have to do that
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I did a test batch of transparent 2-part epoxy (meant for floors and such) mixed with acrylics for the water aspect of shipwreck diorama since its my first time working with it. Works nice, poured 4mm layer, curing time is 24 hours according to the package. Old Revell Panzer III M got the honor of being test subject.
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Also tested the "hair spray" technique for the first time. Didnt work so well because of too little hairspray and too little time. But im getting on fixing the matter.
>>
Scale Model Kits. LOL

Usually in movies, the kid with autism builds model kits.
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Would this be an accurate, cheap, but still passable model of a Beoing 767?
I just need a quick and dirty model of the planes that were used on 9-11.
>>
>>5671276
>>5671280
Wow dude, that water looks real nice.
Could you, by any chance, tell us exactly what kind of epoxy you used? (Maybe post a pic)
For the hairspray technique, be sure to apply at least three coats before painting it over.
>>
I've build the Vickers Medium Mk1 and undercoated it in brown, will be painting it bronze green this week some time.

Overall a well cast kit and and mostly easy build, unique in plastic - all big positives. The instructions forget a few parts and there's no interior of any sort meaning care has to be taken with open hatches if putting crew in, which I will be doing in the turret. The brass etch is entirely superfluous, there's no reason any of the parts needed to be brass etch other than perhaps the strange headlight guards. A common bugbear of modern kits I find to make them seem better value, they should have cast it all in plastic and included a metal gun barrel instead, as the kit could have done with one because the plastic gun isn't the neatest casting and needs care to make smooth.
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>>5671359
Where do you think we are?
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>>5671464
A pic helps
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>>5671507
Have you drilled out the cannon?
Because if you haven't, this is the time for it. Adds a lot of effect, even with the wrong bore size.
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>>5671463
Its Arsalin JETI-500 Epoxy Resin. Meant for laminating, boatwork, glueing wood, concrete surfacing etc. 1 liter can of the stuff itself and 0,5 liter bottle of hardener for 24 euros. I dont know the equivalent product in other countries. (It´s an finnish thing, you wouldnt understand)
http://www.arsalin.fi/kauppa/product_details.php?p=4

You mix 2 parts resin and 1 part hardener, mix it good and then you have 20 minutes to put it on its place. Takes a long time to cure so dont leave in dusty place. I heard it is possible to make the surface wavy by blowing at it with air after 6 hours of curing.
I got the tip to using this from here (Finnish modelling site) http://www.pienoismallit.net/galleria/malli_1936/
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>>5671520
It's already cast with a bore hole, just not apparent in the picture
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>>5671522
Thanks, man.
I'll look if I can get something like that here in Germany, could be very useful if I ever want to do something with water.
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Im having trouble finding British or American modern tank crew figures in 1:72.

Do they even exist in this scale or am I going to have to buy a 1:35 Chally/Abrums instead?
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>>5671675
Something like that does exist.
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>>5671760
noice, thanks mate.
>>
I'm thinking about getting into scale modeling. Anyone know what paint sets and kit I could get as a cheap start?
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>>5672012
I started with a Revell 1/25 Kenworth W900 and a few testors paint bottles. A good way to cover a lot of ground for cheap is by using an aerosol can.
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>>5672042
I'd be more interested in plane modeling. Would there be any good ones?
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>>5672129
Read the OP buddy, says the P-51 is a solid start. Id throw the 109 in that mix too since its a pretty simple airframe to handle.
>>
>>5672129
>>5672196
I'd highly recommend the 1/48 Airfix BF 109, it's simple well detailed and has a great fit.

Another would be Tamiyas 1/48 Raiden or A6m zero, it's super cheap and like all Tamiya kits well engineered, also they have very simple paint schemes in comparison to the more advance bf 109 standards
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>>5671280
I wanna see it finished, sunken ships/subs dioramas are based. It's a generic wreck or a real one?
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>>5672129
I had a good experience with a 1/72 Tamiya Zero, but just make sure you don't go revell or academy, I haven't had a good experience with either.
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>you don't need 45 meters they said
>shipping will cost too much they said
>it's better to pay the jew for 2 meters at a time they said
This, my niggers, is what 135m of elastic rigging looks like. #set4lyfe
>>
>>5673638
It's a generic wreck made from Trumpeter 1/700 Liberty ship, I'm making it as a gift for my wife who has a weird obsession with shipwrecks.
>>5673981
Meinneger.jpg
I also ordered Uschi's rigging couple of weeks ago, together with a new pin vise set and some of those Mr. Paint inks. Gotta say im satisfied with the stuff I got, highly recommended
>>
>>5673981
>>5674271
How're Uschi's rigging wires? Are there major differences between thicknesses? Would the medium one be good for 1/48 and 1/72 rigging?
>>
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just finished this 1/700 yamato
quite a nice kit to build
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>>5677198
Looks nice, do you have any more pictures? What kit is it and what did you use for rigging? EZ line?
I'm making some slow progress on my 1/700 Yamashiro but I didn't realize until now that it's the 1938 version and not the 1944 (I missed the "昭和13" on the box when I was at the store). I guess I'll have to order a 1944 Fuso when I'm done with this one.
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>>5677240
its the tamiya waterline series.. a flawless piece of kit imo

i always used stretched sprue for rigging its a lot more comfortable for me and saves money!
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>>5667971
nice, how much?
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http://muphlon.com/pichost/Wed.18.05.2016-22.15.11_P1150617.JPG
http://muphlon.com/pichost/Wed.18.05.2016-22.15.42_P1150618.JPG
http://muphlon.com/pichost/Wed.18.05.2016-22.03.26_P1150611.JPG
http://muphlon.com/pichost/Wed.18.05.2016-22.04.58_P1150612.JPG
http://muphlon.com/pichost/Wed.11.05.2016-03.03.27_P1150594.JPG
http://muphlon.com/pichost/Wed.11.05.2016-03.00.52_P1150590.JPG
http://muphlon.com/pichost/Wed.11.05.2016-03.14.01_P1150604.JPG
http://muphlon.com/pichost/Wed.11.05.2016-03.06.32_P1150596.JPG
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>>5678266
btw, those decals were so thick that only lacquer thinner could make them flush with the surface.
>>
>>5677198
>>5677244
Looks excellent anon, would look really nice if you got a small photo etch kit for it though, for the rails and whatnot. Rails alone would make it look so much better. Never understood why manufacturers always opt to not include them with the kit itself.

You should also try to deepen the color of the deck, it seems very monotonous and could use some tonal variation as well as a dark brown wash if it has panel lines.
>>
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Vickers Medium nearly ready for the tracks to be fitted. In wondering if it should be glossy, what's authentic? The Bovington Mk2 is glossy, but most museums don't have vehicles in authentic colours. Black and white photos seem ambiguous as to whether they are glossy or not.
>>
>>5680282
Don't.
While a gloss effect is fine on real tanks, it'll look terrible on models this small. Settle for a satin coat instead, as that doesn't look too dull when comparing it to a matte coat.
>>
so I just put the first coat of paint on this model and idk what I'm doing wrong. is it supposed to look like this? using tamiya acrylic thinned with water.
>>
>>5680441
Did you handbrush it?
And try to thin tamiya paints with a proper acrylic thinner.
>>
>>5680495
yes I handbrushed it. i have no thinner only water
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>>5680441
You need to prime it first. Also your paint is too thin
>>
Not sure if anyone cares but Bandai is releasing their A-wing fighter in 1/72 at the end of May.

I for one am fucking stoked.
>>
>>5680441
You need to think Tamiya paints with isopropyl alcohol not water. You can also thin Tamiya paints with their lacquer thinner. Makes the paint lay down very smooth but lacquer thinner is very toxic.
>>
>>5680512
>i have no thinner only water
you bought the wrong product, Tamiya acrylics are not even adequate for hand brushing. If you want something to hand brush go for vallejo acrylics or tamiya enamels (you'll need to buy the appropriate thinners)

Sorry son, you made a mistake
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>>5680282
>them rivets
>>
is there a way to "thicken" acrylic paints? I bought one from a hobby store and it came way too this, almost like water. I already tried to see if there was any clumped on the bottom of the can, and there wasnt
>>
>>5682348
what brand?
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>>5682348
do you live in a 3rd world country where it is normal to water down things for moar profit
>>
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Do you ever go to modelling shows? Went to one today and got some good deals on stuff. Picked up a 1/35 Bushmaster IMV for 10€ because the price was marked wrong and the guy still sold it.
Also here's Hitler riding a raptor
>>
>>5682362
Model master
>>
>>5682972
If America is third world then yeah
>>
>>5684702
Mode master is straight fucking garbage
>>
>>5684939
Model Master acrylic is fucking awful, I agree. Tamiya and Vallejo is far superior to that garbage. However I still like their enamel line and I've used it for a long time without any issues.
>>
Completed a BMP-2 recently and for my first model, I like how it looks. I'll probably go back to it when I pick up more skill in painting and assembly.

I've got my eyes set on another vehicle though, also at 1:35. Not sure whether to go with a NATO vehicle such as the Abrams/Bradley or a T-72/64, however.
>>
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>>5685423
The pic didnt come through mate, Im really curious to see how its gone though.

Is it the trumpeter BMP-2, Ive been considering geting it for a while now.
>>
>>5684939
>>5684977
While we're on the subject of paint, what's the consensus on Humbrol enamels (for brush painting)? I use them because of old habit and I kind of like them but I've never tried any Vallejo stuff.
>>
>>5685602
For about 2 years, I only used humbrol enamels for brush painting until I bought an airbrush and I had absolutely no problems with them whatsoever. I usually had to shake and mix the paint with a toothpick extensively when I bought a new tin but other than that, they are fine.
>>
Any recommendations regarding cheap airbrushes and air compressors?
>>
>>5684706
Dont think like that about America think it as First World Capitalism at its finest
>>
>>5686416
Harbor freight
>>
>>5684939
Model Master enamels are great. Never had a problem with them, except the flat/gloss whites, but i haven't found a single paint brand where the white pigments aren't a chunky mess.

Model Master acrylics are the worst fucking garbage that has ever sat on shelves. Even the cheap 99 cent acrylic bottles from the paint aisle are better behaved than MM. I can't believe hobby lobby lets it take up half the shelf space for the model paints, especially when they already sell Vallejo in just as many colors.
>>
>>5684599
>Hitler riding a rapto
>>
>>5687188
check:
https://eurekamin.com.au/news.php?newsid=EklZEuEuFATWHHLjGs
>>
Doing my first model this is pretty fun
>tfw u will never find the one piece that flew across the room when you were sanding
>>
>>5687435
How does that even happen
>>
>>5684599

Yeah. I'm a member of an IPMS affiliated club. I've been to a couple of shows with them this year. Even picked up a couple of awards (1 Silver, 2 Bronze).

Our club show is coming up next month and though I'm looking forward to it I'm dreading it at the same time as it's a very long weekend when you're the host. They're always good places for deals though, but as I've been buying more than I can realistically build I'm going to have to stop myself (though I said that last time and still came away with a 1/32 Bf109e Balkan Peninsula special by eduard from the bring and buy. It was only 15quid though).
>>
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>>5687435
I know that feel man
>>
>>5688281
attach photo etch to upside down masking tape, taped to your workmat. thenwhen you cut into it, it wont fly off.

also holding it down with a piece of Perspex rod whilst you cut the edges will prevent bits from flying off also.

not that that will stop bits flying off tweezers.
pick up pencil or similar my halp handling.

just some thoughts.
>>
>>5688409
How didn't I already think of that?
Thanks for the tips.
>>
Anyone knows if there are model kit's that fit modern GI Joes?
>>
>>5687435
How much stuff did you buy for your first model if you have a bottle of Micro set?
>>
Whats the best 1:72 nayum huey? I know italeri have a few with different attachments on them but I dont know how good they are.
>>
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>Dragon's stupid fucking plastic tracks
>>
>>5689470
You want to know what shit tracks are? Try revells 1:72 Leo2A5/Leo2A6. fucking nightmare.

On the other hand, revells T90A 1:72 uses the same style of track and flexes perfectly.
>>
>>5684939
oh trust me, i know. problem is that the damn store only sells basic tamiya paints, which sucks ass. all the "historically accurate" paints they carry are model master so i'm forced into buying the off brand testors shit.
>>
>>5689507
thats because there are decades between these kits.
>>
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>>5689470
Try building tracks in this kit and tell me how bad Dragon tracks are, you shitter. I bet you're talking about Magic tracks
>>
>>5689217
>Whats the best 1:72 nayum huey?
Whats Google?
>>
>>5689514
What? Tamiya is best tier
>>
>>5689599
:(
>>
Thinking of getting a T-72 at 1:35. Should I go with the Tamiya T-72M1, or the Zvezda T-72B? Trumpeter's doesn't seem worth the price considering it costs more than the two former put together
>>
>>5689617
i know, that's why it sucks. i've tried talking the owner into getting more tamiya stock in, but he's sticking to his guns
>>
>>5689797
The tamiya t-72 is from 1992 and its the export version (m1) not the russian one (A or B1 for example) and the turret angles are a bit off. The zvezda one is "newer" with tooling made in 2003 or 04 but the general quality of zvezda is shit tier, personal opinion. So depends what you wanna do, the tamiya one will be more pleasant overall to build and you can make middle east colors (Irak, syria, ?) but the zvezda one will allow you to make ruskie ones. Or buy trumpeter or the delicious Meng T-72B3 if you care about "exactitude"
>>
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>>5681030
i thin my paints with this shit:

http://www.cybermodeler.com/tips/thinner.shtml
>>
>>5680531
how much?
>>
>Start kit
>Lose interest, partially build / painted
>Buy new kit
>Build it, start painting, lose interest again
>repeat until you have a large backlog of partially build / unfinished kits

I feel like I'm losing passion for this hobby every day. I love it... but it's so damn time consuming and requires so much work and patience to do properly. Haven't even touched any of my builds in over 2 months now and I just can't work up the courage to get back into it...
>>
>>5689470
Why do people hate Magic Tracks so much? Just take a piece of tape, lay it down long sticky side up and place the tracks 1 by 1, then use small drops of Tamiya extra thin. Let it sit for about 1 minute, then you can take it off the tape and bend it around the wheels on the model itself.
>>
>>5690157
>Haven't even touched any of my builds in over 2 months now and I just can't work up the courage to get back into it...
don't worry, browse 4chan for half a year, focus on your work(or some other shit).
>>
>>5690007
Zvezda T-72s are old Dragon reboxes
>>
>>5690160
It's because those types of faggots Dragon puts their Dragon Shit tracks instead of Magic tracks in their boxes now. And that's why I don't buy new Dragon kits.
>>
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Building a 1/72 Bradley from Dragon. It's a pretty nice but as expected a bit simplified in places due to it's scale. Nothing a drill and some plastic card can't fix.
>>
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While we're on the topic of simple kits, don't get any 1/32 aircraft kit from revell. For 1/32, you're much better off paying $100 for a Tamiya or Hasegawa kit.
Pic related, it's the shitfire in full glory.
Not pictured: the half of the cockpit that I had to shave off so it would fit together.
>>
>>5690229
I agree, they should include both types of tracks in their kits, it's very stupid. That said, their DS tracks aren't that bad, they're pretty decently detailed for the type of tracks they are. I haven't bought a newer Dragon kit in a long time though, I've heard that quality has dropped though.
>>
>>5690340
It depends on the age man. The newer Revell 1/32 kits such as their Fw-190 are great kits with tons of aftermarket enhancements available. Their Bf-109 kits are also great (though credit mostly goes to Hasegawa which the kit is based on).

Revell's decals and instructions are simply shit-tier though.

I agree about Hasegawa though, their most recent 1/32 kits are a masterful example of how to properly engineer kits. Take their N1K2-J kit for example, or their P-40.

Tamiya's stuff I love as well, I've built their Zero, P-51D and have their Spit in my backlog. Tamiya's 1/32 Spit is supposed to be one of the best ones on the market, and I think they have 3 variants (I bought the Mk. IX).

Eduard has a really nice Spit in 1/48 though, all their own tooling with some excellent details, probably much better than Revell's kit.


All that said, your spit looks nice, a little too clean, you could try dirtying it up a little bit with some oil paints and a wash though.
>>
Gaze upon my shit painting skills

>>5688599
Too much to be honest
Second model is in the mail
>>
>>5690590
honestly looks pretty good.
>>
>>5690229
The upcoming Jagdtiger with L/66 kit does actually still have Magic Tracks. If it doesn't include a metal gun barrel for its fuckhuge gun though, I am going to be so pissed. Are there even metal barrels for the 12,8 cm PaK L/66?
>>
>>5690007
>the tamiya one will be more pleasant overall to build and you can make middle east colors (Irak, syria, ?) but the zvezda one will allow you to make ruskie ones.

That information is outdated since Syria got tons of new tanks from russia during the war.
>>
>>5690581
The individual static treads seen on old dragon kits is pretty much a dead trend. Almost all recent tank kits only give you link-length, vinyl, and workable treads.
>>
>>5690779
trust me the brush strokes are really bad
>>
>>5690588
>Revell's decals are shit-tier
Nigger, are you retarded?
>>
>>5690590
I sure fucking those Tamiya bottles aren't acrylics
>>
>>5690912
I can see a number of X- bottles, but if hes brush painting enamels are the better choice.
>>
>>5690796
That's because they never tooled DS tracks for the King Tiger
>>
>>5690833
Then why is everyone doing it?
Takoms new T-55 and Chieftain to name a few have indie links.
I hate it when manufactureres like Tamiya ask high prices but put shitty vinyl tracks, no photo-etch and no metal gun barrels.
>>
>>5690588
I got a Mk IXc in the backlog with literally the whole set of eduard expansion kits. Flaps, Radio compartment, cockpit, engine, gun bays, the works
>>
>>5690340
>buyig revell ever

Thats your first mistake
>>
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>>5690590
You think that's bad?

Here's my very first model. I'm still figuring out how to unfuck this thing, and have neglected to put on decals until I can.
>>
>>5691028
Shit-tier photography desu

I can barely see the model.
>>
>>5691033
Such is the life of the poorfag.
>>
>>5691036
if you took it outside under natural sunlight it'll look better i think
>>
>>5690588
>Revell's decals and instructions are simply shit-tier though.
I grew up only building revell models until I realised there were other brands so Im just used to it.
>>
>>5691058
I'll do so after work.
>>
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>>5690340
You don't really have to pay that much for a Hasegawa 1/32 because most if not all of their standard kits retail for only a little under $50 these days.

No idea about importer prices in different countries, however,
>>
>>5690940
Worse yet is Tamiya makes their own single length tracks for a lot of their new kits, but sell them extra from the kit itself to make more money.
>>
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>>5691314
I hate when they do that shit. Most recent example I believe is their 1/35 Panther D. For the price their asking all the extra shit should be in the box. They have done that shit in the past with basic PE sets for their kits.
>>
>>5691314
While we´re on the topic of Tmiya tracks, how are those rubber ones they do on their T-62A? Ive got one coming in the post and I want to know how much of a headache they will cause.
>>
>>5690932
Thank god they didn't.
>>
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i can't understand why do people praise stynylrez so much when I constantly have so much trouble with it? it doesn't stick well in some places after an alcohol wipe - that's my biggest problem. sometimes it gets out in the form of strings.

what do?
>>
>>5690988
>Revell kits are bad
>>
>>5692193
Use a real primer like Alclad.
>>
>>5692193
don't use awful* acrylic primers

*redundant
>>
>>5690912
They are, is that a issue I don't really know? Also painted the underside now, I still can't seem to get the painting down it almost seems like the paint pools in random places.
>>
>>5692701
Tamiya acrylics are notoriously bad for brush painting
>>
>>5692701
Small update, decided to fuck it and put some unthinned paint over the semi dry coat. Much nicer looking now will wait till it dries to see if it's thin your fucking paints tier.
>>
>>5692701
what are you thinning with?

You CAN thin Tamiya with water but the surface tension will cause it to pool like you described. I've also heard of people using some tiny amount of detergent to break surface tension in the water, but I know that makes the paint brittle and soft.

>>5690912
They are, the enamels are square bottles.
>>
>>5692193
>zvezda
Are you rage hind anon?

If everyone is telling you it is good but you cant get it to work, then stop using it and formulate an original opinion.
>>
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>>5692701
>those sinkholes
>>
>>5692968
99% isopropyl alcohol
urge to get a airbrush is growing desu
>>
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>>5691082
Well, here it is.

Suffice to say, it's a neat model, but I am not happy with my work on it at all. Most of the work was done with testors brush enamels, leaving it disgustingly glossy in some areas and too thick in others. The paint I used, a flat green, is too dark in my opinion.
The tracks themselves are FUBAR, between my impatience and lack of an extra thin glue, they were a continuous problem throughout the whole work.
I think it's still salvageable, though. For that reason I haven't put any decals on. I just need to learn a lot more about painting proper.
>>
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>>5693226
>>
>>5693226
Just buy another better kit. That BMP-2 is a shitty old Dragon kit.
>>
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>>5693226
>flat green
>>
>>5693357
Yeah, but the trumpeter kit is like $330 CAD and I don't have that kind of money
>>
>>5693568
>330 CAD
>252.06 U.S. dollars or 225.92 Euros
for a 1:35 trumpeter plastic scale model seems too much. Where the fuck do you live, the north pole or what?
>>
>>5693585
>seems too much
Welcome to the Canadian pricing model!
>>
>>5693568
>>5693590
>330CAD
fucking bullshit
>>
>>5693590
Poor souls... can you at least order online from US shops? in my "local" hobby shop the trumpeter bmp series are 30-something euros and thats a fair price, I could post the link if you want as they ship interantionally, but customs and shipping would rape you i guess
>>
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Is there any way to paint vinyl tracks with acrylics and not having the paint cracking down on me as I bend them to fit?

I read that using enamel might do it, since it sticks better. but since switching to acrylics I just don't see myself going back to that greasy, smelly, slow-drying headache that enamels are.

shitty pic related, the Ontos that I'm working on.
>>
>>5693568
Most trumpeter models are only around 30 quid where I am, how is your canadian money so shit?
>>
>>5693585
>for a 1:35 trumpeter plastic
but why...?

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=trumpeter+1%2F35+mbp&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xtrumpeter+1%2F35+bmp.TRS0&_nkw=trumpeter+1%2F35+bmp&_sacat=0

Even in Udisco(canadian retailer) it doesn't cost as much.
>>
>>5693605
>but customs and shipping would rape you i guess
no it won't if he orders from the us. i got a compressor kit and a few models into canada with paying very little for shipping and small import costs. a 50 model would cost about an additional 25 bucks to ship and tax.
>>
>>5693639
spray/airbrush some primer (vallejo, ammo mig, alclad are some of the best but require airbrushing. Tamiya for cans) and then paint with tamiya, vajello or ammo mig. Also weather it in-place with pigments because its quite tricky, atleast for me, to do it off the model with the vinyl ones
>>
>>5692548
>revell kits arent bad
>>
>>5693694
I primed Trumpeter's LAV-A2 tyres with Alclad and it easily flaked off.
>>
>>5693703
What's bad about Revell kits? Have you ever built their F-4F Phantom?
>>
>>5693837
>priming tires
For what purpose?
Also I've only used tamiya and vajello primers personally and always worked great everywhere, I listed alclad because it seems popular and okay atleast in the anglosphere but I can't vouch personally for it. A lot of reviewers use it so extremely bad can't be
>>
>>5692550
is it the same as tamiya's grey primer?

>>5692971
>Are you rage hind anon?
uhm... maybe..? if collective experience has been so positive, then i must be doing something wrong. i'm trying to figure out the right way to use it. if the technique and conditions won't suite me, i'll drop it like an ugly baby.
>>
>>5693226
>looking up the trumpeter bmp
>actually enjoyable tracks
>that fucking model quality alone

Well then. Yeah, I'll probably look for it somewhere where it won't cost me a fortune. In the meantime, probably not much else I can do for this unfortunate victim. Probably will slap the decals on it and call it in.

Before replacing it though, I'm going to want to get some better paints. Local store has a wide variety of shit to choose from (on top of me now having an income), so I probably won't have trouble getting proper equipment. I just need to practice my poor painting skills.
>>
>>5694055
i sprayed stynylrez on glass and a day after it was very hard to scrub it off. that is weird since glass is super smooth and non porous and in theory stynylrez should adhere to it much worse than to plastic.
>>
>>5668559

google tracks for your kit, there are a large variety of aftermarket tracks out there that will look nice
>>
>>5694375
iirc, proper primer should bond to the plastic, which is what makes it a good base. Acrylics create weak bonds with plastics, which is why they're easy to scratch off, and why acrylic primers usually don't work that well. The way stynylrez bonds to glass and plastic is probably very different, especially as glass is amorphous while plastic is a polymer.
>>
>>5693963
So I could paint them. I don't like the look of vinyl tyres
>>
>>5689514

if you can't paint with model masters you are literally trash tier

its fine to have preferences but you're probably just being a weeb here
>>
>>5690237

dragons 1/72 armor and 1/144 tend to keep too much detail for the scale to me, for example the rivets on that kit are still basically 1/35 scale so it looks like some sort of 40k tank wip
>>
Who carries GuP 1/35 figs?
recently got
Tristar Pz. IV Ausf. D
Dragon Hetzer
Academy M3
>>
I see a lot of praise for alclad primer in here but I feel like that stuff is grainy as fuck. I mean it may be better for some types of steel etc. but it's not very smooth to me.
>>
>>5694637
http://hlj.com/scripts/hljlist?Word=Girls+und+panzer&DisplayMode=images&Dis=2&Sort=std&qid=J6NO2T8TM3VZGQ&set=1&q=1&Scale2=35

A little expensive for me
>>
>>5694643
Git good. Alclad is literally the best primer.
>>
can paint accumulate on the needle because it is scratched?
>>
I have stopped building models for ~5 years now, and when I left, the industry was trending downwards-kits getting more expensive, not about kids interested so the amount of model era ever decreased, however when I left everything was great, everything seemed to be booming. Where is the industry now? Is it doing better or worst?
>>
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Been working on a Hasegawa 1/350 Shimakaze. Really nice kit, and I had no idea that Hasegawa ship kits were this well engineered / molded.

I had to buy the photo etch separately, but the nice thing is Hasegawa integrates the photo etch instructions with the kit instructions very nicely. They also include injection molded parts that are meant to be used only with the photo etch parts, another nice touch.

Fit is absolutely perfect as well, the molds are crisp and perfect too. My only gripe is that some of the smaller details are very basic, such as the 20mm AA guns, but there's not much you can do at this scale with them. I just wish there were some aftermarket brass barrels for this kit.

I still don't understand why the photo etch is sold separately when it's essentially critical to making the model look decent though. I think they designed the kit so that it could be built without painting for beginners or something.
>>
>>5696305
How does your workspace look so neat even in the midst of construction
>>
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Hasegawa's photo etch is really easy to use too. It's not the most realistic photo etch, but it's much easier to attach to the model itself, especially these rails, because they have little tabs that you can glue onto the model instead of just tiny <.2mm thick photo etch strips.

>>5696205
I think it's getting better, there are a lot of new companies making really great kits these days, such as Takom, Meng, AFV Club, etc. So many new chinese and Taiwanese manufacturers doing a lot of interesting things.

It's still getting more expensive, but mostly because the kits themselves are better engineered and with far more parts than in the past, with things like workable tracks becoming common.

In terms of aircraft and ships the same things can be said, especially in larger scale aircraft where companies like Tamiya and Hasegawa are making incredible kits.

I think it's far easier to get into the hobby these days that it ever has been in the past due to the internet, youtube, etc. Also WWII games have definitely driven more people into the hobby, specifically games like WoT and others like it.
>>
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>>5696310
It's not as organized as it looks, but I try to keep things somewhat clean so I don't go crazy. Once I start painting though things start to pile up like crazy with tons of paint jars all over the place.
>>
>>5696315
Fine Molds makes aftermarket Nano-dread sets you can use for your AA guns. Hasegawa's Shimakaze is the first in a new generation of 1/350 ship kits, or perhaps the only one unless they plan to expand, totally different from the old ones.

AFV Club has been around ages ago. Detail quality has indeed improved these days but not necessarily engineering. We still get new kits (often from the likes of Italeri, Trumpeter, and Hobby Boss) with many parts, photo-etch, and other multimedia crap but fit terribly and are badly researched.
>>
>>5696322
Is that a bootleg Ottlite on the left? The colors look all wrong on that side.
>>
>>5696372
How are the old companies such as Dragon, Tamiya, and Revell doing?
>>
>>5696507
Dragon peaked around 5 years ago. Since they exhausted the generic ww2 subjects, they tried to branch out and didn't do as well.

Tamiya is still pumping out top notch kits.

Revell hasn't changed, just like their moldings.
>>
>>5696193
paint accumulates on any needle, its called dry tip, you need to be regularly cleaning the tip with a cotton bud soaked in thinners.
>>
>>5696775
>Revell hasn't changed, just like their moldings.

Thats not true. Some of their new kits are very nice.
>>
>>5696193
>>5696193
Yes, but if you use acrylic it's normal to get an accumulation on the tip as it dries faster so keep an eye on it while working and clean it with a qtip with thinner or nail polisher
>>
What is this Revell bashing in this thread?
Revell makes some really nice kits.
>>
>>5697407
desu they vary a lot
>>
>>5697425
Sure, Revell reboxes a lot of kits but their own kits are pretty nice.
>>
>>5697428
The link and length tracks for their panthers suck


at the moment my favourite producer is meng
>>
>>5697425
Thats what the internet is for.. if you buy kits "blind" you have no right to complain in my eyes. you can find reviews for literally every single kit.
>>
>>5697442
15 year old me didn't know that
>>
>>5693840
Have you ever built anything else? Their kits are fucking awful
>>
>>5696507
I´d say revell are the best when it comes to 1:72 armoured vehicles and 1:24 cars, a lot of these models are fairly new and look good. Cant comment on the others.
>>
>>5697432
>meng
The prices are quite steep though. What does their T90A run for at the moment, 50 pounds? Im not sure Id spend that much money on a 1:35 armoured vehicle model.
>>
Can anyone recommend me a good military jet model, preferably in 1/72? I've built a few gundams, but have been wanting to try building an aircraft for a while now.
>>
>>5697736
what military jet do you want to build? that should be your first choice, and from there we can look for the best kit in 1/72
>>
>>5697646
Have you ever built anything? For the price Revell kits are pretty nice. I started to build Hasegawa's Starfighter and I wasn't impressed by it.
>>
>>5697785
My favourites are the F-14 and F-15, but stuff like the Starfighter, F-111, and F-22 are nice too. I'm looking for something on the cheaper side that I can experiment with and won't feel so bad about if I fuck it up. Thanks!
>>
>>5697862
Airfix mainly, italeri and revell if you find them cheap also
>>
>>5697851
>for the price theyre good

Compared to what?! Go to the store and you won't find any similar model (same scale/type) for cheaper.

10/10 bait I mad
>>
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Okay guys, I've got some trouble with painting. I am trying to use Vallejo Model Air red brown (also known as tank brown or something like that) and for the love of god I can't get it to work (H&S Evolution Silverline, 0.2 needle).
The stuff doesn't want to be sprayed, thinned or not. It clogs up the needle faster than you could look. Retarder does almost nothing. Doing camo is a pain. It's a shame because it's the nicest shade of red brown I've encountered. Any suggestions how to fix the Vallejos? How are AKs paints? Could one mix the Vallejo Rotbraun using Tamiya colors?
>>
>>5697862
Where are you looking to buy? The Hasegawa F-14 and F-15 in 1/72 have a list price of 1500yen online, which is roughly $14.

Take that price as a benchmark when you go shopping.
>>
>>5698027
I've had the same problem with vallejo, sprays like shit. Ironically brushes very well though.
>>
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>>5698115
'Don't talk to me or my son again'
>>
>>5698027
As I said before, acrylics tend to dry really fast and you should check the needle/air hole for clogs and build up. Also perhaps the needle is too small(?) for how much paint you need, anyway here's a vid of a fat dude that's really good https://youtu.be/rxC_8DLp7hs
>>
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>>5698027
>It clogs up the needle faster than you could look.
same here. it's good only for large areas. too bad i don't have all the tamiya colors that i need.
>>
>>5697862
>on the cheaper side
try academy models on ebay with free intl shipping.
>>
>>5698143
I might been using this technique wrongly, but you should paint a base color then apply the blutac worms and airbrush the areas you want in other color (the "stronger" one). Because from you image it doesn't make sense
>>
>>5698085
I live in Canada, so either local, Canadian Amazon/Ebay, or possibly some Japanese sites if it's cheaper for Hasegawa, Tamiya, etc.
>>
>>5698189
yeah, i figured that out a after.


>>5698201
where in canada?
>>
>>5698233
GTA, basically right between Hamilton and Toronto.
>>
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>>5663152
Just bought this for my Kenworth, is it worth it? ($47.00)
>>
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>>5698335
also i'm not sure if I should trust this.
8 bucks is a steal but i don't know about that description there.
>>
>>5698366
i wouldn't trust it either.
>>
>>5692972
Calm down. Those are likely for pylons for ordinance.
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