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This thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resi
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This thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resin) models kits.
-Post photos of your builds in progress and your finished builds
-Have your builds critiqued or critique others
-Discuss tips and techniques
-Ask for advice or give advice to others

Some helpful guides to get started:
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20%28Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step%29.pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com/

Previous Thread >>5605455
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>>5626867
ololo
The wheels and grills for this one are atrocious
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>>5627326
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What difference does a metal tank barrel make when it comes ti modelling?

Considering orderingone for a T72 in 1:72 but if it makes no difference whatsoever, I wont bother with it.
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>>5627373
It just looks better compared to a 2-piece plastic barrel.
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Asking again since I got no answer last thread:

Is Flat Green okay for a one-tone BMP-2 scheme?
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>>5627375
Will the usual revell contacta glue make the metal stick to the plastic model?
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>>5627380
No, you will need super glue for metal. Plastic glue works only on plastic.
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>>5627373
Metal aftermarket barrels are usually good for tank models that have two piece barrels that are split down the middle that you have to glue together, these often leave a disgustingly visible line that goes all the way down the barrel that you have to sand out.
Note this image in the previous thread where the barrel wasn't sanded, you can see the line where the two pieces were joined. >>5625275 That could just be a mold line though.
1/72 barrels should be small enough for them always to be one piece, 'should' at least.
I don't think they're necessary unless you're an experience modeller and want to make an outstanding model.
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>>5627388
>I don't think they're necessary unless you're an experience modeller and want to make an outstanding model.

like 99% of all aftermarket products.
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>>5627326
the sprocket wheel is bad but usable. The headlight cages can be replaced by wire anyway.

the roadwheels are ok, they are slightly too small, and the rubber rim is slightly too wide.

But the revell T-72M1:

- incorrect pattern on roadwheels (indent is square-jointed)
- left front stowage box the wrong way around
- turret shape completely wrong (might pass for a T-72M)
- 125 mm barrel too thin
- Main gunsight is goddamn solid

>>5627373
If you are thinking of getting the RB model one, it is generally good, but doesn't feature the thermal shroud "zip-up" lines

The OKB grigorov one is also good, but if you want a thermal shroud you have to manually attach the PE parts, which is a serious pain in the ass.

The best aftermarket 1:72 125mm barrel was made by zedval but its super rare (out of production)
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>>5627379
Nobody knows what flat green you are talking about nor the exact scheme you're going for. Just because it's infront of you doesn't mean we magically know what advice to give to you
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>>5627373
In some kits the barrel is one piece but like the others have said to avoid that untimely seam.
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Tamiya tank i just finished. the tracks got stuck to the nail, so they kinda fell apart, but I managed to fix them a lil bit
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As posted in the previous thread, my M103 before and after.
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>>5628584
>not on the edge of the toilet
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What thinner is used in these substances? They smell the same and stynylrez is removed the same way by the other two.
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>>5628584
>black label
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>>5628929
I goof by buying it, yes but I really wanted an M103. Its my favorite tank and I don't really like the 1/72nd scale.
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>>5628929
Yeah, it's inaccurate as fuck but I think at his skill level it's not too much of an issue and if he doesn't mind then all the power too him.
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>>5628932
>>5628969
>supporting Dragon after 2012
There are much better alternatives for a beginner modeller.
Do you like the M103 that much? First time I heard about it was when Dragon released it.
Also Dragon released a 1/72 one and it's even worse. Modern Dragon 1/72 kits are shit.
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Just finished this, thoughts?
It's been a while since I last used an airbrush
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>>5629044
Good work, merchant
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>>5629044
did you use olive drab for that?
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>>5629136
Base coat is olive drab, the lighter patches are pic related in a 2:1 ratio.
That dark patch on the upper glacis is hull red
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Got a big step ahead with my little sdkfz and painted the camo pattern.

I bought a starter set for german armor from vallejo but all of their browns looked really odd so i mixed them all together.

next step will be some cleanups and then another coat of varnish before the chipping.
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>>5629217
Might be the image quality, but your coats look pretty thick. Did you use masking for the patterns?
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>>5629221
its brush painted, that might explain the thickness.

I used a masking tape but it didn't worked out as i wanted with all those edges.
I have a build and primed sdfkz 251 waiting though, hopefully i can improve the result on that one with what i learned and found out on the 250.
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Does anyone have any recommendations for simulating mud?
I've tried using PVA glue mixed with talc powder and brown paint in this, but it ends up looking a lot glossier when it dries
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>>5629258
texture paint.
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>>5629258
weathering mag has a whole issue on mud.

use real mud. as in dry mud, sifted to dust.
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I'd like to get into traditional plastic modelling (did some gunpla already). I'm mostly interested in planes and jets. I would like to start with a phantom II., but I'm not sure which are decent while still being fairly cheap and beginner friendly.

Any and all suggestions are appreciated
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>>5629348
check 1:144 scale or 1:72 from airfix and revell. these are cheap and not overly complicated and you can see if you like the hobby or not without going all in.
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>>5629356
Thanks, mate.
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>>5629348
Might want to start off with a piston engine plane since those tend to be a lot simpler to construct (less parts) compared to jets
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>>5629370
Yeah that makes a lot of sense, thanks. Now I just need to find a shop that sells this stuff my side of the world
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>>5629383
Its called amazon.
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>>5629395
Nah Amazon is super shitty here in Denmark.
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>>5629453
can you order from germany? sockelshop.de has a pretty big selection.
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>>5629465
Pretty much any place within Europe is fine. Sockelshop.de seems nice from the quick lookover i gave it.
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>>5629473
They have a good bonus program and free shipping when ordering a certain sum.
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>>5629529
Oh thats cool. I'm gonna look into it. Thanks for the help, anon
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I have the materials and the capacity, should I add mud guys?
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>>5629694
I would add mud as the very last step after all other weathering
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>>5629703
I'm debating whether I should do it at all. I like the clean, out of the factory look and I feel mud would take away some of the subtlety I put into the wheels
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>>5629716
Then don't do much, or even no mud at all. Maybe a little bit of dust is enough. There is not necessarily mud if it was dry for a few weeks.
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>>5629716
Try to add some color variations. It's important with large surfaces or stripes with the same color that you don't let it become too "bland". Try fading it with some oils, maybe.
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>>5629815
I've yet to get to that stage, but I am planning to do so
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>>5629694
are those the straight up tamiya german tank colours; XF-60. 61, 64?
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So I went and bought pic related as a first model. I want to go with the regular two tone grey look but I have no idea of what paints to buy/thinning/glue/etc. I probably have the required knives and pliers but that's it really. Reading the .pdf in the op gave me some good knowledge of how this all works but I honestly am at a loss as to things to buy/where to buy them, in Canada.
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>>5629888
Just order from amazon?

https://www.amazon.ca/Xcelite-170M-General-Shearcutter-Diagonal/dp/B0002BBZIS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1461615879&sr=8-1&keywords=side+cutter

https://www.amazon.ca/SODIAL-Double-Sided-Boomerang-Curved/dp/B00OCGGXKE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1461615906&sr=8-2&keywords=nail+file

https://www.amazon.ca/Revell-25g-Contacta-Professional-Paste/dp/B00U8AR0V4/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1461615935&sr=8-5&keywords=revell+contacta

These items will enable you to build the kit without bigger problems.

I'm pretty sure someone in here can point you into the direction of the right paint for that plane.
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>>5629879
Yes but 58, not 61.

I heard that XF-60 was a little off but I'm going to correct it with filters after weathering since I found that oil paint streaks skew the colour and forces a filter anyway
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>>5629954
No one can argue about the "real" Dunkelgelb. Trying to find THE correct tone is straight up madness. so just do whatever looks good to you.
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I need a bit of advice here /toy/. I'm looking to build pic related, 1/1000 scale Endeavor Class, out of one of my 1/1000 1701 kits. The only place i have found a proper resin conversion kit is Federation Models but i know nothing about them. Has anyone ordered from them before and if so how was your experience. Also any tips would be great.
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>>5629888
whoa another Canada bro

which province man
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>>5631012
Ontario hbu?
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3D printing scale model revolution when
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>>5633175
Yesterday evening.
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>>5633175
when stereo lithography machines become affordable.
the first home machines are just starting to be released now.
but it will also take people to know the difference.
and get rid of their existing machines that were a waste of money.
and become good at 3d modelling.

till then people will just whine on forums about it.
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Don't know where to ask so I'll ask here. Does any one know the specific name of this small toy(model) airplane.>>5634918
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So, years back, I sold a Plymouth Prowler kit that belonged to my dad. No fucking idea it belonged to him, but whatever, I'm an ass. Anyway, for my dad's birthday this year, I'm getting him the same kit, except painted in his favourite shade of red, with "69" on the hood. Which would be a lot easier, if this fucking kit didn't suck so goddamn much

>Americans in charge of model kits
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>>5635005
theyre only expensive if youre trying to buy from outside America. mainly due to shipping.
if you were an American you could probably pick one up second hand for peanuts.

>>5634918
this really isn't there thread for some diecast toy personal jet.
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>>5635005
isn't revell a german company?
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>>5635676
Revell Gmbh ( Revell germany so to say ) is. They split from Revell monogram in 2006.
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What is the most interesting/unique kit you have built, Anons?
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>>5636133
Probably a Revell Ferrari if we count unfinished kits.
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This thing is actually much bigger than I realised
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>>5636258
the Germans liked to think big, after all.
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>>5636761
and then something bad happened
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>>5637713
>not liking BASED Wiesel
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>>5637713
nah germany already had plenty of very cute and sex
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>>5638242
That thing, in comparison to other vehicles of its class, is also huge.
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>>5638489
Like what?
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>>5631270
Brush, I just never felt the need for an airbrush yet.
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>>5638722
Okay, then we're on the same level. For simple weathering I use a brush with very little paint (a darker one than the base color) that I apply on edges, openings and other surfaces that I want to make stand out a bit. You can also wipe some of the paint off with a napkin or similar to make it more smooth. For the hull you can use some reddish brown and make thin rust streaks with a toothpick. These should also be wiped to get a more blurry finish.
These techniques aren't very refined but I think they're better than nothing.

I started painting the deck for my Yamashiro but I can't decide if I should paint it in a lighter tan shade or not.
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>>5638749
Do you rely on the nub marks being covered or hidden or do you have a method of dealing with them?

A bit of weathering done
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unusual question here.

I'm a VFX artist for films and one project I'm working on requires large-ish, custom built, spaceship models. Scale isn't too important as long as the models are very detailed.

What I need are lots and lots of "model kits", you know the plastic ones with all the individual pieces you glue together, so that I can kitbash something together.

I have absolutely no idea where to find said model kits, I live in london but i'm guessing it would be cheaper to buy them online. As cheap as possible would be good because then I can buy a shitload.

First time posting on this board and I don't know the culture so apologies for any faux pas
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>>5638945
As a VFX artist, what kind of mediums are you comfortable working with?
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>>5638950
A few but i'm a fast learner, I've done some miniature stuff mostly in styrene but aside from that the vast majority of what I do is cg.
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>>5638957
Well I'd recommend looking at models as a detailing step rather than using them to form the basis of your model. Ply or balsa are far more flexible if you're creating a model of moderate size. From there you can modify the exterior as you please with model pieces and sheet styrene. A model with size can have an interior made or lights and electronic mechanical innards.

Out of curiosity, is it a ship with a hard science design or just s fantastical ship?
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>>5638971
Yes, the plan was to build a structure and then use the model kits for detailing, but if I can find pieces to use within the structure itself I may do that too.

The ship is i guess soft SF, it's all written to be strictly grounded in science but the ship does have FTL capabalities.

It's a cross between these two ships
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>>5638979
>>
>>5638979
>>5638981
you not approaching this with pre made blueprints from a 3d model?

I mean main body easy enough, panels plasticard pre cut using cutting service.
doodads just get them 3d printed.
why waste the time money effort on the off chance you might find something useable from a dozen model kits.
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>>5638945
3d model and print.
You should know 3d if you're vfx artist or there should be someone who does
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>>5638853
The ones on the deck will probably not be visible but if some remain I usually try to paint them afterwards.
That VK 3002 is looking good. You're going to do some more weathering though right?
>>
If vallejo paint thinner is isopropyl based why doesn't it smell like alcohol?

also, is it just my finger sweat or is badger primer such a weak shit that it comes off when handling the model even after a few hours since priming it?
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Hey /toy/, I mostly do tanks and I feel like I'm ready to move on to aircraft. Particularly Vietnam era. Any guides for this kind of thing?
Also what do you do with your old kits or messed up ones. In my move a few got beat up pretty bad and there's others I built that I just don't think look very good.
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>>5639687
that's because it's a water based acrylic
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>>5639717
I put them in The Box of Shame and forget about them.

I did throw away most of an italeri huey I fucked up when I was 14.
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>>5639717
>what do you do with your old kits or messed up ones
I use my crap tank models as test beds for learning new painting techniques, particularly with an airbrush so I'm sure I'm happy with the colour and consistency of the output and then for practicing the camouflage shapes and patterns I may be about to put on a good model.
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>>5640038
Not a bad idea, thanks
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Spetsnaz Vympel
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>>5640074
those need a wash and a highlight anon.

tho it's nice to see some figures here for once.
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>>5640074
What kit is that?
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>>5640140
I believe they are Spetsnaz Vympel by Zvezda
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>>5640090
havent done washing and higlighting before any tips
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my us marines
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my hummel
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my su 27d sukoi
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Is it possible to get rid of this black piece behind the seat or am I fucked?
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>>5640395
this a p-38 ? why is that there? just saw it off. nothings imporrible
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>>5640424
Started that build years ago with my uncle, and there was a conflict involving what variation to build (I wanted to build the Nightfighter, he wanted to just build the regular one). That black piece is for the Nightfighter version, which requires that section of the cockpit to be modified (it isn't here). I hope I can saw it off without much of a problem.
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Sorta new to model kits (recently picked it up again, did it a lot as a kid). What is the benefit of these metal supplement parts as opposed to the plastic parts?
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>>5640211
ew, I recommend consulting /tg/ about those
>>5640214
looks okay-ish
>>5640215
nice work dude
>>5640531
photo-etch parts can be more in scale & detailed and metal gun barrels are better in shape and in other ways
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>>5640531
They are much thinner and provide more of a scale representation of the piece since molding it in plastic would create an unrealistically thick part.

It is also included for parts which are impossible to create in styrene like engine deck grills and straps.
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>>5640167
well anon you give the parts a wash

then you highlight

the WIP thread on /tg/ is probably more useful than me

I just did a wash and varying highlights on this soviet guy and I thought it looked pretty good
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>>5640631
>nice work dude
Its literally the worst of the three. The figures look better dude.
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>>5640638
>The figures look better dude.
They are crying out with despair for a wash, highlight, and decent lighting. And from my limited experience with planes the paint finish at least is okay.
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>>5630597
>Federation Models
They are good shop. I ordered BSG Viper in 1/72 and some Trek shuttles from them, shipping was really fast.
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>>5640645
The missiles are on the bottom of the wingtip rails for fuck sake.

You say the figures need washing, highlighting and better lighting? This thing needs proper painting to begin with on top of those things.
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>>5640655
>dat filename

true anon, but I wanted to give our friend some positive feedback too u_u
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Has one found a good way to clamp round fuselages together while gluing? I don't like rubber bands since I often find that the glue gets underneath and wicked around the fuselage. I find traditional clamps slip off the round surfaces. I'm gluing the underside in this pick which is why you can see a large seem on top.
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Is it important to put varnish or protective coat to acrylic basecoat before applying an enamel wash or filter?
>>
guys how do I paint faces in the 1/48th scale?
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>>5640762
incredibly.
If you paint in enamels, obviously the enamel filter will bring up the underlying coat.
Mostly though its so that the washes and filters can flow more easily across the surface.
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>>5640794
Not much different than in 1/35th scale I guess, with the exception of detail painting. On 35th scale, it's possible (!) to paint the eyes and such, that would be problematic with smaller figs. Don't let that stop you tho.
Start with a medium flesh tone, paint evenly.
Get two lighter tones, one for subtle highlights (cheeks, etc.) and one for not-so-subtle ones (e.g. the tip of the nose and the edges of the ears).
After that, you do the same thing with shadows.
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>>5640794
I used what >>5640909 said and got: >>5640635

apart from I used a wash over medium flesh and then highlighted up
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>>5640909
After applying your shading, you should get a medium flesh tone, thin it (approx. 1:5 color:thinner) and apply it evenly with a brush dampened in the stuff. It will make the borders of the highlights and shadows less obvious and you can also make last alterations to the color.
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>>5640633
Damn that looks satisfying
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>>5640909
>>5640917
I found this nice link today; I intend to try it on my Panzer crewman.
http://felduniform.blogspot.de/2015/03/figure-painting-step-by-step.html
Maybe it'll help more than the stuff I said. I too am still learning.
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>>5640655
>The missiles are on the bottom of the wingtip rails for fuck sake
That's where they're supposed to go on, dumbass
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>>5640655
Are you slow?
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>>5641016
>>5640988
Dame dame, my mistake friends.
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>>5640711
I don't think theres going to be one clamp that's best for the whole thing since the profile changes slightly.

the micro ratcheting clamp version of that black and orange one might work better.

you would probably want a little bit of protective foam not to scratch it.

cheap plastic ratcheting hose clamps may work for the nose.

just go to google images and see what you think looks best for the job.

you building that b-17 now?
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>>5641050
Ah, I didn't know that existed. I'll have to give them a shot.

Yup, I've been working on it for a long time and posted pics here several months ago but nothing since.
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post modeling related reaction images
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>>5641644
>How do I paint figures
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>>5642202
I didn't paint him lol, he's on the pictures for that revell UH-1 on amazon.
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>>5638945
i would build a simple carcass out of styrene or foamex and then add greebles and detail parts, these could be laser cut flat parts, pieces scavenged from other kits or just vaguley sci-fi looking everyday crap like heat sinks
you also could look at detail-up or option parts
http://hlj.com/product/BAN981588/Gun
http://hlj.com/product/EDU632043/Air
http://hlj.com/product/ADNANE-0122/Sci
https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10088517

or real science models
http://hlj.com/product/BAN977688/Rsc


this is an interesting step-by-step
http://www.modelminiatures.co.uk/harvester.htm
>>
Do any of you know where I could find any good Scalextric retailer in the Kent, England ?

I actually want to buy in a "physical" shop, not at online shop.

Thanks mates !
>>
>>5642202
Nah, he's just on coke.
>>
Are there remote controlled plane generals on /toy/ or another board?
>>
>>5642944
I was just wondering the same thing actually.
>>
I kind of want to get into model making. I remember my dad use to make models when I was a kid, lots of cool tanks, cars, planes.

Should I just buy a model and tools at hobby lobby? Revell kits are good to go?
>>
>>5643147
Most of the revell kits you find at hobby lobby are ancient tooling and have horrible fitment issues. You're much better off with a cheap Tamiya kit. They are great and are about the same price as Revell trash.

As far as tools and paint, hobby lobby is solid but look for a local hobby shop for a better selection.
>>
>>5643147
Yeah, a Tamiya kit is best, like their cheap panzer ii ausf f/g.
Tamiya are easy to assemble and look cool.
If you have any questions about painting or construction, just ask us.
>>
>>5643147
Tamiya > Revell, but if your store has no Tamiya stuff you can go with Revell too. Get a side cutter, a nail file and plastic glue and you are good to go.
>>
>>5643147
btw the best glue is Tamiya Extra Thin

if you can't find it buy it online, because it's almost impossible to fuck up with it
>>
>>5643250
>>5643260
>>5643263
>>5643271

Thx

Another question.

What should I do if I don't have an air compressor? Is there an alternative that doesn't look like shit?
>>
>>5643343
its called skill with brush painting.

For your first models you probably could get away with using spray cans.
>>
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Can anybody give some general tips for brush painting?

Are there any youtube videos on how to brush paint models adaquitley so they don't look like junk?

I just painted my first model, the dragon panther II, with paint and I think it turned out fine.
>>
>>5643526
I don't have much of any advice if you plan on doing camo patterns by hand but I watched this guys videos recently may be of some use -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1W0w6ftzVXs - painting
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=daz3XrOgp2I - weathering
Most weathering is done by hand anyway, also washes are your friend.
>>
working on a shitty revell 1/32 spitfire mk1a. I'll probably have to attept to hunt down some separate guage decals since the provided ones are such shit. The individual pieces are high quality though, so it's got that, i guess.
>>
>>5643343
Brush painting can look really good if you do it right. Just remember to thin your paints. I find the Vallejo model air series of paints is pretty forgiving while brushing.
>>
>>5643691
All Vallejo paints are pretty forgiving. When thinned, their model color range is all one could ask for, really.
>>
>>5642248
Just use google m8.
>>
>>5642248
May i ask you why?
>>
>>5643356
>>5643691
acrylic model paint vs enamel?

apparently acrylic is the way to go now? I remember my dad using enamel almost exclusively.
>>
>>5644342
both have their uses actually but back in the day enamel was the only option available with no widespread acrylic paint fron dozens of brands.

Acrylic drys extremely fast.. which can be a great thing, but it can be annoying as well, depending on what you want to achieve.

Enemal smells really bad though.. i remember when i was a kid (like 20 years ago actually) that i got nose bleeding all the time when i used plastic glue and enemal paints alot.. not that this stopped me.. but yeah, it should be said that that stuff smells.

Since acrylics can be thinned and washed off the brush with simple water i recommend these for starter purposes.
>>
>>5644342
enamels are better for brush painting.
no reason not to get a cheap say veda-180 airbrush and a few cans of propellant.
>>
>>5644390
> a few cans of propellant.

And there you are within the price reach of a cheap compressor already. Granted, that isn't perfect, but propellant cans aren't either. The compressor will last "forever" though.
>>
>>5644603
Even the shittiest chinese compressor is better than cans.
>>
how do I get into airbrushing for less than $200? i'm tired of using spray cans
>>
>>5644659
Similar situation here.

Whats a good compressor for under 100 pounds ish.

Or do I have to spend more than 100 quid?
>>
>>5644659
>>5644674

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Voilamart-1-6-HP-Airbrush-Kompressor-Set-Tank-3-Pistole-Airbrushpistole-Lackier-/391427600182?hash=item5b22e72f36:g:8gIAAOSwWBJXBHMV

Good value for the amount of money. Obviously not a "top notch" airbrush, but for as long as you don't want to do finest details you will be fine. Priming, Camo etc can be done with that set easily.
>>
>>5644701
Is there any difference between a tire inflator compressor and a compressor I can use for model kits? Ive already got a tire inflator in the garage.
>>
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>>5644749

>any difference

My dad has a compressor in his garage as well, and that thing is huge and loud compared to my airbrush compressor. If yours is around the size like pic related, its probably 5 times as big as an airbrush compressor too.
>>
>>5644758
Is it possible to use such a big compressor?
>>
>>5644769
I don't see a reason why not.. if you can fit the airbrush tube onto it somehow.. i doubt the fittings are the right size, but maybe there are adapters for it.
>>
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Pics of a friend's Jagdpanzer IV, he fucked up tremendously when building the poor thing
(he managed to glue the mantlet way too high, don't even get me started on the amount of glue he used).
I thought it was sad to let it sit there w/o a proper coat of paint, so I whipped up a quick Hinterhaltmuster.
Gonna test some techniques on this thing.
I'll keep you updated. Any suggestions?

>>5644769
Sure!
If you can stand the noise. Just find a way to connect it to your airbrush. The good thing is that the tank is huge.
>>
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>>5644795
>>
>>5644795
Yea mine is a dual tank that I use for my air tools. Should last forever before turning on again.
>>
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>>5644659
Paasche H
>>
>>5644769
just make sure you have a regulator and a moisture trap.
>>
>>5644749
>tire inflator compressor
you mean one of these shitty 12v deals without the tank?

If it has a tank that's fine, you just need a pressure regulator so you can dial in your pressure.

without a tank, just sticking a compressor directly the regulator that you defiantly need.
I don't think that set up is really recommended due to the fluctuations in airflow and how the compressor has to constantly run and it being loud as fuck.

That said, the nail art mini compressors would probably be the way to go if you wanted cheapest of cheap. you would still want a regulator with moisture trap.

but since I haven't used that I cant say how well that would work. and I doubt anyone here has either.
>>
>>5644871
having owned one of these, other than having the paasche name its not that amazing.
even the cheap Chinese veda 180 has more functionality and range in needles and shit.
>>
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Finished my Nausicaa gunship
>>
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>>5643566
Try painting your own gauges Just use an acrylic paint like vallejo with some retarder and an extremely fine brush.
>>
>>5644889
I don't know what this is, but looks cool anon. Maybe just a little too much post-shading, but that's just my preference. Still looks great
>>
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>>5644894
It's from the Ghibli movie, Nausicaa of the valley of the wind. A Bandai kit.
>>
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>>5644899
Really simple kit. I think there were only like 3 sprues total, maybe 4.


I'll probably take some higher quality pictures later with a non-phone camera.
>>
>>5644906
>>5644889
>>5644899
Looks like a pterodactyl
>>
>>5644796
>1/2x^3
>x written as a multiplication sign and not variable x

are you a highschooler?
Seriously though at least he glued the wheels in proper registration. Judging by the size of the note book, it's 1/72?
>>
>>5645364
Actually, our multiplication sign is just a dot. (German school system, heck yea)

It's 1/72, correct.
He may have glued them on right, but he sure doesn't know about sand paper. Had to remove all the nubs with a knife.
>>
>>5644749
i tried to do the same thing, but ended up buying a hobby compressor on ebay(aliexpress was more expensive) for a 100 bucks(includes shipping). a hobby compressor is much quieter than a regular one, plus you won't find an appropriate tank for less than 50 bucks, plus you'll need a pressure regulator and maybe a pressure sensor. you're better off with a purpose built compressor.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Portable-Tankless-Airbrush-Compressor-1-5HP-/331639639012?hash=item4d37434be4
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Twin-Piston-Airbrush-Compressor-1-3-HP-/271789350804?hash=item3f47e85f94
>>
>>5646374
how quiet are they?
>>
Is it just me or does Dragon plastic (the more soft, darker grey and rubbery variety) not stick well with polycement?
>>
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alright autist. This is my first tank/model(not including the fuckup model I tested first)

I primered it black, and now I am brush painting the base coat with acrylic. I'm using thin coats.
>>
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what am i doing wrong with this stynylrez? i sanded, degreased the surface, wiped with a clean napkin and it still fucking won't stick.
>>
>>5649345
Gotta let it cure bro
>>
>>5649345
nice clean keyboard.
>>
>>5649378
how long? florry models guy used masking tape less than an hour after applying.

i'm gonna break this fucking heli in a hysteric seizure if this is gonna continue to happen.
>>
>>5649447
do you de-tack your masking tape on your hand, thats usually the cure to that problem. you should be able to pull it off without any resistance.
>>
>>5649345
Use Alclad primer, nerd
>>
>>5649457
i used tamiya with lacquer thinner, i switched to polymer specifically so i won't stink up the apartment.
>>
>>5649378
it's bad adhesion due to either incorrect spraying, dirty surface or shitty plastic.
>>
>>5649921
THe same thing happened to me after spraying it from too far.
>>
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>>5649231
Alright. My first real model. All brushed walmart acrylic over black primer

what do you guys think?
>>
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>>5650378
>>
>>5650378
>>5650384
not bad. try to thin the pain and apply in in several layers next time.

melatonine.
>>
>>5650421
>ate] [Auto] No new posts
I think I'm going to avoid black primer when it comes to painting something that has a light color.

I did use layers, but the black primer was too present.
>>
>>5650421
I think he already has. You're only going to get so fine a coat when painting with non modeling craft paint.
>>
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>>5650444
I think the walmart paint is usable, but yes, you do need to add alot of coats. I think using black primer was a mistake. I should have gone with grey.
>>
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>>5650462
>>
>>5650462
>>5650469
>>5650384
>>5650378
Get a bit of distance with your camera, it's at its focus limit.
>>
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>>5650488
>>
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>>5650515
Learning how to shoot is an important aspect of sharing the modeling hobby since everything is so small and finely detailed
>>
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>>5650531
My phone probably doesn't have the best camera, also I suck at picture taking.

Ether way, this is the best I can probably get.

btw, that looks amazing.
>>
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>>5650378
>>5650384
>>5650462
>>5650469
>>5650515
>>5650560

>no decals
>>
>>5650442
Actually, you can use this to your advantage, as the black primer can help to create depth and shadows where it shines through. I guess the problem is with your acrylics tho.
>>
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I just stumbled upon this kind of camo. Should I try to pull it off? (Maybe for the Sturmtiger because why not)
>>
>>5650462
I have some artists acrylics, Tried painting them on a primed spoon.
I found it virtually impossible.
It was either too thick and showed brush strokes.
or too thin it didn't cover shit and was basically semi transparent.
And most importantly would have taken a hell of a lot of coats to do something that could be done with some tamiyas quicker I think.

Id just hate to brush paint acrylics.

you cant put them through an airbrush either because the heavy pigments fall to the bottom, been there tried that.

even the Vallejo game colour I found hard to brush paint.
>>
>>5650770
Good Luck Painting if i were to paint that i would cry the ammount of masking needed would fuck it up
>>
>>5651033
>>5650770
you wouldn't mask it u bleb. you would just brush paint the leaves with a small brush.
enamels would probably be better for that.
>>
>>5650560
This is very decent for brush work senpai.
>>
>>5651118
>>5651033
I guess I'd just AB the brown stripes with a mask and make a stencil for the leaves. Probably similar to the german disc camo.
>>
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>>5650560
Thanks dude, I'm impressed you managed that coat with brushed on acrylics
>>
>>5651246
yea that would work. the laves look built up in layers of green, then brown, then green again.
if you have a couple of single leaf stencils, and a fine tip nozzle, and just keep repositioning the leaf as you need to.
>>
>>5651247
>>5651156

Thx

I'm not near doing this, but should I varnish the model? Can I just spray Krylon polyurethane over Acrylic?
>>
>>5651506
Test it on the underside and let it cure a day, then decide.
>>
holy shit.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/USA-Fuwa-1-6-HP-Airbrush-Air-Brush-Compressor-Nail-Kit-For-Nails-Tattoo-Tanning/161877386986?_trksid=p2045573.c100507.m3226&_trkparms=aid%3D555014%26algo%3DPL.DEFAULT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150817211758%26meid%3Dcf66c9357161425f905b4a2e362ab13d%26pid%3D100507%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26

why didn't i see this comressor when i was shopping for one a month ago.
>>
>>5652097
why what did you buy?
>>
>>5652126
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Portable-Tankless-Airbrush-Compressor-1-5HP-/331639639012?hash=item4d37434be4
>>
>>5652097
this one doesn't have a water trap and it has strange fitting(1/4" ntp, i think).
>>
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>>5643147
>>5650560

Noob guy here.

My very first figure. what do you guys think?
140
>>
>>5652389
Bad, but could be worse. At least you didn't try to paint the eyes.
Just focus on getting the colours blocked in with thin layers of paint and you're halfway there.
>>
>>5652389
Check /tg/ for the WIP thread for miniature painting.

Long story short: give that soldier a wash with a dark color, brown or black and he will look 1000% better.

after the wash you can add highlights with the base color if you feel like it.
>>
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just got a newsletter.

mr hobby are now doing an airbrush, looks like a copy if the iwata hp-th.

0.5mm tip, 138.00 gbp.

I am interest.
>>
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i haven't raged in a very long time like i raged this time.
>>
>>5654038
If it's any consolation an old devlan mud wash helped to fuck up one of my 1/48 figures.
>>
>>5654038
what happened anon?
>>
>>5653109
I heard that the fan pattern is a bit of a gimmick because air from a side air feed can't be seperatly adjusted from the air pressure from which paint material is released
>>
>>5654038
>a hind d?!
>>
>>5655018
I, anon, its spelled b-hind d.
>>
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>>5654850
>what happened anon?

this:
>>5649447
>i'm gonna break this fucking heli in a hysteric seizure if this is gonna continue to happen.


do you know how frucstrating it is to reprimer the model (!) 3 times because the primer comes off just at the touch of a finger and then discover that it still doesn't adhere when it comes off with the fucking masking tape?!? AAA!!!!!!

god damn zvezda-pizda and their nylon-like plastics.
>>
>>5655085
>breaking your models


are you 15?
>>
>>5655092
Not him, but I burned a few of my older shittier tanks so save up space.

I liked looking at the smoke come out of the hatches. I dont do it to my good/decent models though.
>>
>>5655109
I never got that. At least use it to test airbrush techniques or something.
>>
>>5655111
I have a a small revell tiger and PzIV to test airbrushing out, and most of the models I burned (1:72 Abrams, Leo2A5) I bought again, rebuilt and built them properly the second time.
>>
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>Guy builds a $450 ship kit as his "second model"
>Doesn't paint it at all, doesn't even know how to properly cut off / sand nubs
>Doesn't even bother to paint the photo etch
>Placing decals directly over plastic

TRIGGER WARNING!

https://imgur.com/a/6sVv7#0mEOmHg

I don't understand why he would ruin such an expensive kit. I mean if you're willing to invest that much money in a kit, why wouldn't you invest in an airbrush / compressor that costs less than half that? Hell, you could get one of the best airbrushes on the market and a compressor for the same price and actually learn how to use it.
>>
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>>5655228
Also holy FUCK Captcha, how the fuck? For those that don't see it, that's a model of the fucking Yamato in there... when I'm posting someone's model of the Yamato. That shit is fucking crazy.
>>
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>>5655228
>So proud of this.

lol

reddit is shite modelling wise. No-one offers decent criticism and most of the models there suck arse.
>>
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>>5655228
couldn't even spend $20
also
>shit tube amp
>'battlestation' resplendent in LEDs
go figure
>>
>>5655236
The same can kinda be said for these threads though, aside from criticism though.

>>5655280
True, spray cans alone could have made it look much better, I just don't understand the logic of spending that much on a kit and just not painting it. It's one thing to practice on 1/700 kits or something, not on one of the most expensive kits on the market.
>>
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>>5655092
a shrink told me that my emotional intelligence is of 13 yold. i'm 31 btw.

and like i said: i haven't raged like this in a very long time.
>>
>>5655085
>zvezda-pizda
>>
>>5655311
nice stuka. My father made the very same kit, it's the tankbuster right?
>>
>>5655334
kanonen vogel, academy 12404
>>
>>5655393
I'm mistaken then
>>
>>5655393
I've got that kit on a shelf waiting to be built, how is it?
>>
>>5655228
You sure that the model is $450? 1/350 Tamiya yamatos go for 20 dollars on ebay.

I could be wrong, I never built ships.
>>
>>5655455
There are two Tamiya Yamatos, the old tool from the 1970s, and the new tool that came out a few years ago that is much better detail. He built the "premium" newer kit that costs that much.
>>
>>5655455
seems theres 2 versions, old mould new mould.
if he got the premium version of the new mould that could add up.
>>
>>5655459
Well, fuck me...
>>
>>5655455
http://hlj.com/product/TAM78025/Nav
$200 I assume OP is also accounting for the accessories or something.
http://hlj.com/product/FLM350071/Nav
>>
>>5655467
Damn that's actually pretty damn good, but then again HLJ always has some of the best prices on Japanese stuff. I take it back though, I thought it retailed for a lot more based on seeing it on ebay and spruebrothers.

Still, regardless, guy is a moron for not at least trying to paint the kit.
>>
>>5655454
let's just say that i used much more putty than anticipated. cockpit detail is good for the scale. very nice panel lines. center-lower part of the wing is slightly bent, need a bit of filing and filling.
>>
>>5655311
>PAY ATTENTION TO ME: The post
>>
>>5655585
>>PAY ATTENTION TO ME: The post
as much as any post here with a picture of the poster's work.
>>
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>>5655228
Jesus christ
>>
>>5655585
пpoвёл хyeм пo гyбaм.
>>
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1:144 scale Shiden kai N2K2-Ja
>>
>>5655855
that's cool and all but:
>moe ship faggotry
>prepainted
>was not built by you
>>
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Saw this today and immediately bought it. No idea it was being made in plastic but I can't wait to start it, the moulding looks great.
Thread replies: 255
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