Customs General
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You are currently reading a thread in /toy/ - Toys
You are currently reading a thread in /toy/ - Toys
Post your custom projects here. Mods, fixes, repaints, 3D printed stuff, or whatever else you're working on. Share tips, ask for help, offer advice, and have fun!
Here's some tips from the previous threads:
For sculpting: use 2-part epoxy putty like Aves apoxie, Magic Sculpt or fixit.
For tools: try a basic carving/sculpting set like the kind arts & crafts stores have.
Dental tools have also been said to work well.
Also, using a Dremel is recommended. Minimites (the small $20-25 ones) are fine for starting out, but the battery life is poor. Upgrade to a corded one only if you want to get deeper into customizing. They are useful for stuff outside of the hobby though, so it's a good investment regardless.
For paints: use acrylics. Paint in multiple, thin coats. Brands like Vallejo/P3/Citadel are recommended, because of pigment quality.
Use a sealer when finished to protect your work. There are matte varieties and sealers that give a glossy look. As with painting, use multiple thin coats.
A flex shaft attachment on a Dremel is a godsend and relatively inexpensive. The grinding shield is also pretty useful, but you can improvise one using a cut open soda bottle.
Gonna try asking here again:
I was thinking of buying a pose skeleton to make pic related a thing.
Can the head fit inside of oil slick's dome, and how big will it be compared to the original head?
>>5591489
>Please, don't be that guy. We don't need another Wii Fit Trainer/ Quiet tier custom here.
RUDE!
I'll have you know I had some friends over recently and they saw my Wii Fit trainer in my Smash Bros. display and loved it! They said it fit right in and couldn't even tell it was a custom when it was with all the others.
>>5624494
I don't know anything about Oil Slick, but the Pose Skeleton Big Person is 1cm wide, 1.5cm tall, and 1.5cm from the front teeth to the back of the skull
>>5624693
Thanks!
>>5624678
They were being polite.
How difficult would it be for a first time customizer to give this figure standard articulation?
Are there any clear visual tutorials on how to do that?
>>5624810
For the whole body, very difficult. Your best bet is to research various figures and model kits from which you can kitbash and cobble together analogous parts.
Hey guys, I'm about to start getting ready to paint. I have a can of Krylon plastic primer that I've tested on an old figure and it seems to scratch off very easily. Is this normal? Should I not even worry about primer and just wash/scrub the figure and paint with normal acrylics? I have some Testor's glossy stuff, but I'd rather it have a matte look, so I got impatient and ended up painting the head with some cheap bottles of satin acrylic paint from Target.
Is it important to go with the "name brand" stuff for models, or will any old acrylic paint work?
tl;dr: Primer, yes or no? Does cheap general store acrylic paint work? Many watery layers or a couple normal? Should I spray it with something to "finish" it and help protect it once done?
>>5624912
O it's one those soft vinyl figures?
I remember seeing several kamen rider customs where they
>Chop up a sofubi into individual components (belt, armor, helmet, etc)
> Attach these bits onto an articulated base figure.
The one I saw used the Super Articulated SM2 Spiderman as a base figure and was from some thai forum. Google only came up with this KR blade using a 1/6 doll but it's basically the same concept.
need more butchered bodies desu
Been doing repaints on 13" TMNT figures. Did four so far and just had 3 more commissioned.
>>5624938
The Krylon plastic spray lines take quite a while to cure. I've read on the back of some cans (like the Fusion stuff) that it can take up to one full week for it to become chip resistant, and problems can occur if you spray too much too fast. Maybe that's where you're running into trouble?
If you just want to up the level of paint adhesion, get a can of matte top coat and spray that. Wash the figure first, because there is bound to be mold release agent on it. For Hasbro stuff I even do a quick non-aggressive rub down of 91% isopropyl alcohol on a Q-tip over the figure after washing it. Alcohol is nice because it's not super harsh to paints in small doses and has a fast evaporation rate. And I don't know what it is with them, but Hasbro pumps out some of the greasiest toys I've ever seen and you just need to go the extra mile sometimes with them.
Cheap acrylic paint can work, but the places where it's going to possibly backfire will be reds, whites, and yellows. The reason why some brands cost more is the quality (and density) of pigments in the paint itself. Discount brand paints skimp out on pigments (or use shitty man-made synthetic ones) to keep costs down, which is really REALLY bad when you want to paint colors that can allow massive bleed-through from the colors below it, like red or white or yellow. Black, blue, purple, and green are usually not as harshly affected by this, so you shouldn't really fear getting cheaper brands for those.
In regards to how diluted you should make your paint, I always say place it somewhere between ketchup and milk, erring more towards milk. It needs to be thick enough that it can properly form linking bonds when it polymerizes, but thin enough that you don't see brush strokes if hand painting it. If you're painting red, white, or yellow on non-white/grey plastic, you'll drive yourself crazy with how bad the coverage will look, so you might want to prime those specific areas.
And yes apply a top coat when done.
>>5624960
Really helpful and dense reply, I appreciate it very much! I'll bet that's the problem with the primer I was using, as I only gave it a couple days before I started lightly picking at it to test out its durability.
>>5624955
Invest in bootlegs. They're self-butchering right out of the box.
>>5625025
I'm not that well versed in bootlegs, literally the only ones I know of are Datong and some NECA ones. Is there "generic" body bootlegs?
>>5625050
There are bootlegs of the original Figma Archetypes, that's as generic as you can get. Be forewarned, joints will be weaker than true Figma joints (sometimes they're decent, most of the time they're shit). Casting imperfections will be present in some way, some subtle, others a bit noticeable like mold flash in bits here and there. Holes for joints' pegs will not be perfectly aligned too.
But, compared to more detailed bootlegs the Archetype bootlegs are rather decent fodder. The legit Figma Archetypes are still around (re-released) but like all Figmas the production run will end at a certain point. The bootlegs are 50-75% the cost of the legit ones and are quite plentiful. Just be sure you buy from a seller (EBay) who has little or no history of items never arriving. Ignore bad feedback on quality or authenticity of products, you already know it's a bootleg.
Whew! Okay. Hope that all helps.
>>5625345
You can probably get balsa wood cheaper in comparison for the floor and just seal it with spray-on adhesive or spray-on sealer. Balsa is softer but you can rough it up easily to make worn floorboards and whatnot.
Can't wait to see pics of that Slasher bunny in the diorama. The bloody paint job is both hilarious and badass.
>>5625369
I think I went a bit overboard on the killer bunny look
>>5625415
Nah, that's the best part. Put a bunch of hacked up limbs of victims around the set and it'll be perfect.
I did this for a girl I love ...
She dressed as Minnie and I saw the picture on your page face ...
Yes, I'm pathetic ...
The label was made by a friend. head buy it on Ebay and the body is a doll Never After
>>5626035
The Box with custom label
>>5626035
It's not bad, but I can taste your autism. Please tell me you're dating and this isn't how you're going to confess to her, at least. It'd be a cute anniversary present or something.
>>5625415
I like it. I don't think it's overboard, more like he's just very dedicated to his craft.
>>5626071
Oh god you're right I bet he doesn't even know her personally...
3d printed this for a friends birthday, painted it today and am now waiting for it to dry
>>5627112
That's really cool :) pls take pics when the paint dries
>>5627112
beautiful, what size ball joint are those, 8mm?
>>5627112
I hope you sanded it before painting it.
![24042016678[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/PGuKwbu.jpg "24042016678[1].jpg")
>>5627112
neat
>>5627804
this
>>5627112
Yo! Can you share the file you used? There is a 3d printer on my campus and the first print is free, so I'd love to try it before finals are over
>>5628236
Print something off of Thingiverse or Myminifactory dude, don't ask people to give their stuff away for free.
>>5628418
>charging for the files to 3D print a copyrighted character.
Hello lawsuit!
>>5628426
>someone literally doesn't understand why an artist would give away their work for free
>jumps to the conclusion that the alternative is paying
Maybe the dude just doesn't want you to have them at all?
>>5628435
Well that's just petty.
So my "cut up a figure and add joints" project is pretty much done except for repainting. But does anyone know if Wave/Yellow Sub/etc. make those sprues of not-Figma joints in colors other than black, white, gray, and flesh tone? I've been looking around to no avail. Failing that, has anyone tried recasting the sprues in resin themselves? I figure that would be the easiest way to get the joints in the right colors (dark blue for this guy and dark red for another project), but I'm a bit worried about whether it would be too brittle to use for joints.
>>5628587
Try dyeing the white ones. Also it would look better if you embedded the joints rather than just placing them in between the anatomy.
>>5628602
The joints are already embedded, but it probably wouldn't hurt to make the indents a bit deeper for some of them (especially the shoulders and elbows).
>>5628453
Yes it's petty to not want to give things to people for free that you made as a gift for a friend.
Wheres a good site to purchase bags of spare joints at?
>>5628899
ebay.
>>5628899
HLJ has packaged joints too.
>>5624398
I am curious if anyone here has had experience or tips with somehow casting mirror image molds. I found a few theories and tips from model car enthusiasts, but no actual tutorials to back them up. I will try out the methods and report back on my findings as it will prolly be useful for other projects, but just asking before hand to see if anyone here has actual experience with that sort of thing.
The method is essentially using a liquid latex coating over the part to form a thin glove you can then turn inside out and make a mold using it. Again not sure on the full details, seems to be a trick not many have tried from what my searches pulled up.
question regarding doing customs by commission for someone- I still own the actual rights to the finished figure, yes? Same as if they commissioned a drawing from me? That would mean they couldn't sell it on eBay, or make castings/reproduce copies for sale, right?
>>5629764
There's a lot of dubious legality here. Technically, they can resell the figurine, so long as they don't attempt to sell it off as their own work.
The whole castings and reproductions thing is another thing. If you're using pieces that you yourself didn't make, there's nothing to stop them reproducing those specific pieces.
As for a figurine that is wholly custom made, then I'm not sure.
>>5627122
>>5627282
Yes I will upload it in a moment, I forgot I replied to this thread
>>5628236
6mm gray
>>5627804
because of time constraints (college/work) I wasn't able to sand it, but I am printing a new one tomorrow that I plan on spending some time on once the semester ends.
This is my first time doing something like this, and I am right now having trouble figuring out a material to use for the eyes and how to get them the right shape, is there any good small material that works best for a completely black eye? doesn't have to be shiny but it would be great if it could be
>>5628418
I was just asking if he'd mind sharing. It's not legal at all to sell the files or print them from an external site, so the only option I have besides asking if the person doesn't mind sharing is to make one myself, which I don't know how yet. I am learning, but it would have been nice to get the chance to print it now instead of waiting until next fall when i'd have access to a 3d printer again.
>>5629791
Thank you so much man! I was thinking of using the black plastic film inside those big googly eyes to use for eyes. They are easy to cut with an xacto knife, and you might be able to find a close size. Also, you could try looking up a hobby shop and checking out the black buttons they have. Occasionally they have those solid black buttons without the holes.
You all seem really good at customs. I can hope one day to get on some of your levels. I hope one day to make something like in the pic cuz I love shyguy. Well done all of you.
>>5629764
>>5629786
If it's a thing you own the copy right to you're golden, if it's a Spider-Man or whatever it's a bit more complicated. The law will stop someone from reproducing a figure design you own outright, wholly original work featuring no reused parts from other toys. If you made a Spider-Man or any copyrighted character well you shouldn't have been making a Spider-Man to sell in the first place as far as copyright law goes but if it's entirely original parts you still have some protection over the guy recasting it. Except, you know, you'd have to go to court and admit that you were violating copyright law yourself so you'd probably get laughed at and then Hasbro/Marvel might slap both of you with a cease and desist. If it's a figure that's copyrighted and uses parts from other toys you're pretty much SOL, report the guy anonymously and watch as nothing happens because nobody really cares.
You own the rights to what you make no matter what but proving that can be difficult and it gets more complicated if it's like a picture of Spider-Man because you don't own Spider-Man himself even if you own the picture you drew. Even if you sell that Spider-Man picture and Marvel takes you to court Marvel doesn't own it, they just have the ability to stop you from selling it. Make sense?
>>5629799
No one was suggesting that he sell them to you either, it's just stupid that you people always come on here and want 3d shit for free because you're too cheap to offer the guy a buck for his work.
Fixed the hilt of the blade and the sword edges. Still having trouble making the pauldrons and figuring out how to get the neck cloth to look wrinkled/crumpled.
>>5630204
Why did you jizz on his cape
>>5630214
I tried to make the white markings on te cape with some light strokes of white but it spread too much
>>5630254
In retrospect I probably should have just ironed or sewn some white cloth onto the blue
Can I get an opinion? Painting my Neuroi Witch Nendoroid custom. I used Miyafuji as a base, so I decided to make a little baseball cap style hat for her.
Anyway, I can't decide if the brim should be black (to match her face) and the hat itself should be gray (to match her hair) or vice versa. I'm leaning towards black brim since the concept is that if she became good, she'd still be self-conscious about being a Neuroi, so she'd try and use the hat to hide her face, if knowing my thought process helps you decide. (Ignoring the autism, of course)
I just noticed my Cobra werewolf in the OP image.
Feels good, man.
>>5630306
can we see your custom or no
>>5630204
Looks good man, I would redo the blue fabric though. What scale is this by the way?
>>5630333
I'll post something when it's done, but I only have a garbage cell phone camera and am self conscious so I didn't want to spam grainy, half finished pictures that people will tell me suck. And right now, the face plates are still drying so I'd only be able to post it disassembled anyway.
It's going to be pretty much the color scheme in that picture if that's why you're asking, though. The plane legs are going to be black instead of dark gray, and I think I'll darken the almost-white gray a bit, though.
>>5630351
nigga i rolled trips just post your custom
>>5630355
Ugh, alright. Here she is with a bit of primer. And don't say I didn't warn you about quality. Now give me your opinion on hat colors.
Her breasts turned out a bit bigger than I pictured, but I got them looking good and didn't want to risk ruining them. Her ears and tailfin won't be permanently attached and just use double sided tape for now, but I might add magnets later. She has bare legs and plane legs, along with a blank face and a smiling face. Originally, I was going to try and make her machinegun hands detachable, but I wussed out just made her straight arms normal and bent ones machinegun fingers. And before anyone complains about accuracy, I mixed and matched the Daibadi version, anime version, and what I liked.
>>5629764
>I still own the actual rights to the finished figure, yes
There's two different factors at play, which draw different answers.
First is intellectual rights. If it's your original character, you run the show on the rights. The ball is fully in your court regarding casting and any sort of merchandising. If you don't own the character, you have no rights in the first place unless you are officially recognized by the licensor. Once it's gone, it's gone and there's nothing you can do. Which leads us to the other factor...
Consumer rights. They have the right of resale and modification to any product they buy. And if they're an asshole, they can cast something that you don't have the rights to until the day they die and you will have zero standing. But if you do own the design and they're making casts of it, that's a no-no. And if they send them out to people via mail, they're subject to laws regarding defrauding the mail system, which honest to god is a real thing that is very closely watched and investigated.
>>5629799
Here you go, you just need 11 revoltech 6mm joints, and then you'll also have to cut the hip and neck joints just a tiny bit
http://www.mediafire.com/download/8e8jiyvzjtw3e20/Final_Complete_STL_1.085.stl
Finished up a battle damaged terminator, had a lot of spare parts.
>>5630628
Kinda stumped on what to do next.
>>5630377
Looking good so far.
>>5624957
That is pretty damn impressive.
>>5630348
It's and old toybiz 12 inch ringwraith I picked up. I don't think they made these to scale but comparing it to a few statues it's roughly 1/6
Does anyone have the edited OOT Link reference made by Lalam some time ago?
>>5629791
OH man that's cute.
I like how the print lines give it a brushed metal look.
Yo guys anyone got a idea on what to use for some chainmail for a 1/6 figure? I found a set being pieced out on Ebay for like 30$ a piece and thats way too much for me.
>>5630811
You could retool a small chain necklace like this
http://www.amazon.com/925-Sterling-Silver-8MM-Chain/dp/B017J1T7UG/ref=sr_1_2?s=apparel&ie=UTF8&qid=1461652173&sr=1-2&nodeID=7454881011
Or maybe get a fake chain from those grocery store egg machines for like 25 cents
>>5630811
Knitted wool isn't an awful substitute at that scale. But 20 bucks for 1/6 scale clothing is pretty normal, so you might want to bite the bullet.
Started on a hoverbike.. thing.
needs a lot of fine tuning and such but the general shape is kinda there.
also need a color schme.
Made an add on for cw Onslaught using movie Bonecrusher, missle pods from movie basic movie Brawl and a couple of CW Silverbollt guns.
>>5624945
That might work. Give it a shot!
>>5624957
That's really well done!
>>5628587
I like it, it looks like the holes and cuts were done fairly cleanly.
>>5629791
That's a lovely custom, I'm sure your friend will appreciate it!
>>5630204
I would have almost chosen a rougher cloth for Artorias, like an old and worn sock, still it is recognizable as him.
>>5630628
>>5630630
Nice work as usual Joe!
>>5631486
Looking forward to seeing this one finished!
>>5631626
Looks neat, I almost can't tell what's been modified so it meshes well with the figure!
>>5630622
Thank you, man! Can't wait to get back to check it out.
Update. Added some details. Made fit of parts better
>>5632998
>>5633022
Who'd be a good base for Aya? Figma She?
>>5634044
>base
Any good way to make or services for custom waterslide decals? I want to make some for my Arwing toy.
>>5634044
Wait for the new archetype, it has better boobs.
>>5634044
I'd go with what 5634746 said, the new archetype has the perfect body for aya. At most you would have to make the armor pieces which shouldn't be too difficult with some putty. You might also want to look at the eye decals, hlj recently put some up for order
http://hlj.com/scripts/hljlist?GenreCode2=all&Word=eye+decals&x=0&y=0
>>5634588
If you have an inkjet printer, you can buy decal paper and make your own. You have to seal it when it comes out or the ink will run, though. A couple passes with... shit. I forget. Glosscote? That shit seals it on the cheap.
I was considering butchering some of those older 4" Ben 10 figures to make their articulation not suck. Any recommendations for parts to use? I'd love to recreate articulated versions of the original 10 aliens.
>>5630630
Neat. Beyond maybe some clothing tears above his robot knee, i think you're done.
>>5635589
normal commandwolf armor on blox fire phoenix legs
some chopping was done
Had a bunch of spare parts, decided to try and make a Colonial Marine.
>>5636457
Some kinda middle eastern smart gunner bro
Hello guys, one of figmas fell, the joint of the left shoulder broke, I can get a replacement but I don't have the tools to replace the broken joint. What tools do I need?
Thanks in advance.
>>5636728
One of my*
Stupid phone.
Boatpaint anon here. Having a hard time mixing the boat paint with the resin dye. I can see little dots of the resin dye; it doesn't seem to be mixing into the paint well if at all.
Normal acrylic works but it needs a decent ratio to get the color.
Please someone help me
>>5637506
Just get a new one. He's cheap, no?
>>5637514
Yeah but I want to repair him anon. I got my Amazon refund. But I don't wanna wait weeks for him.
Finally got around to using my old glass case. Making a fantasy garden.
>>5636758
She comes with a bunch of neat parts worth using and I found her for $5.
2 hand guns, 6 throwing knifes with holsters, sword staff thing. The body is... Actually fine, overall she's a good fodder figure.
>>5637506
His buttplug is removable, it contains a screw that holds his crotch area together. Pop that out and you can easily disassemble the lower half.
>>5637844
Those bodytypes are rad, are those custom dolls or something
>>5637566
Nice. I always look forward to seeing your work Fakimus. I've been wanting to try my hand at dioramas as well. This weekend I plan to give it a go. There were some nice fake plants I found at Ikea that could work as trees too.
mmm mediocre
>>5638474
That sounds like a great idea! It would probably look lovely with your custom girls! How's the Neptunia girls coming along?
>TFW I want the bangs from one custom Lily and the back hair from another but don't want to ruin two dolls for a single shitty custom.
They put the straight bangs and straight back hair with different figures on purpose, didn't they?
>>5638540
It's funny you should mention the Neptunia girls, I just started NG+ on Neptunia VII since the DLC characters are finally out. I think I'll try to make a Yellow Heart out of one of the Pochaco copies a made in the previous thread. I might go back and improve my Iris Heart while I'm at it.
Ideas on a really cheap female figma?
>>5624957
I cringed at the thumnail but came at the full image. Dang son. You are the MVP and now I need a full set of those.
>>5640337
Bootleg Archetype She. Ebay has them for $15-$20 shipped. Buy from sellers with little or no incidents of packages not showing up. Ignore neutral/negative feedback about 'fake' or 'bootleg' complaints, you already know that's what you are in for. Boil or hairdry heat the whole figure to CAREFULLY move all joints in case any are stuck. While the body parts are still soft from the heat pop off all joints and gently sand a tiny layer off the pegs' ends (there's a ring at the ends). Use fine-grit sandpaper to get it narrower BUT NOT FLUSH with the rest of the peg. This will reduce friction in peg holes and lessen the chance of tearing the joints when popping off parts or pivoting pegs without heating.
>>5639893
Cool! Can't wait to see it!
anyone happen to have the paperclip/glue info pic for repairing figure joints? i hamhanded a wrist.
>>5641199
http://mikatan.goodsmile.info/en/2011/03/25/diy-figure-repairs-part-1-broken-joints/
>>5638059
Reverse image search says they're some kinda limited edition BJD called a "Mini-Machina"
http://batchix.g36.net/?page_id=415
>>5625415
I think clean his eyes, it will make it look more crazy.
Hey /toy/
I'm working on a generic Figma-Nendoroid-CuPoche-style figure body in Solidworks. I know it's not THE BEST program for organic forms, but the project is my final project for a Solidworks course so yeah.
I don't have many current screenshots saved on this computer so I'll have to upload them another day but it's going along fairly well. Aside for some minor knitting issues on the head I'm down to jointing everything together.
My question is: what size should the final, printed version be? I was thinking of a 4" overall height to go with CuPoche, but some of the features are down to fractions of a millimeter so I'm considering rescaling it up to 5 or 6" in height. Its proportions are 3-to-3.5-heads, if that helps. Cheers!
>>5626035
>>5626071
>>5626763
>I did this for a girl I love ...
>a girl
>a
Yeah, if it was his girlfriend/wife/whatever he would have said THE girl he loves.
>She dressed as Minnie and I saw the picture on your page face
page face as in Facebook? Jesus dude that's fucking creepy. Please do not give her the doll, she'll probably call the cops.
Took a slightly clearer picture of Israeli Colonial Marine bro. I think I'll call him Aldhdhib, the Arabic word for wolf.
>>5637760
I bought her for the exact same reason, that's a pretty good amount of accessories. Her motorcycle helmet is cool too.
>>5638067
They're Neca scale so you could probably make them work with 6 inch figures. Sadly they're way too small for Figmas.
>>5642883
He looks great.
You should paint 'Oy vey' on his smart gun :^)
>>5624398
Anyone 2 part casted a nendoroid head? I just got the idea for a ridiculous custom but want iput on the best way to cast it without damaging the head and hiding the seam.
Boat paint anon here. The paint is flexible so far, but its adherence is pretty poor. The surface is sticky and I can rub it off with my fingers, like weak rubber. You know the crap that breaks apart into black gunk, like cheap rubber feet.
Not sure how I can improve the adherence since there's no flexible primer to put on it. Surfaces have already been treated with a solvent and sanding (and cleaned).
Perhaps it was because I mixed it with normal hobby acrylic.
>>5638067
They scale relatively well, since she's tiny and they're small enough to fit her hands. Like she's about 6" tall, she shorter than most NECAs.
>>5642847
Fellow SolidWorker!
Yeah, organic shapes in SW are tricky. I've gotten much better with the Loft feature with all the times I've been having to use it on Papi/Loli.
As for your question:
Depends on the dimensions of the narrowest parts. Are you going to use Shapeways, or perhaps your school's printer (assuming they have one)? Shapeways' WSF needs free-standing rods and pieces at least 1mm thick, so figure out the thinnest extension/rod on your parts and use the scaling function on Shapeways to make that particular rod's dimension at least 1mm thick, 1,2mm to be safe.
Kinda hard to give you a definitive answer without some screenshots, though. So be sure to post some so we can all get a better idea.
>>5642874
Would love to know what ever happened with that, I've been googling "minnie mouse related murder" for about a week now.
>>5643281
It's easier with surfaces. Part of the reason I picked animu aesthetics for the project was to at least limit some of the detail. I am printing on printing everything in the strong and flexible plastic Safeway offers, with the polished option, to support the joint structure
While nothing free-standing is less than 1mm, some of the fillets are down to 1/10s of a mm. At the 4" scale the thinnest part is 1.2mm, and it's a while part do I probably should scale it all up.
The hands DO have free-standing fingers, but theyre each closer to 2-3mm. Pic related, the hand prior to completion and being parted out.
>>5643467
Gotcha. Fillets SHOULD be fine so long as the thickness of the overall edge or wall is above the minimum dimensional thickness.
You said you were going for a mix of Nendo, Cu-Poche, and Figma, right? I think a chibi-type figure with a head around 50% the whole height should be okay at 4" tall. Do a mock-up assembly with your figure's parts and you'll see what the 1:1 dimensioned scale size is, then adjust the scale on Shapeways as needed.
>>5643772
Then it should work. I may scale them up to be safe. The final is due in two weeks, and I should be done modeling by about Wednesday, I'm hoping to present the print as part of the final presentation.
The basic one is roughly 3 heads tall, so the joint components should be large enough to be durable-ish. It's more figma-esque in joint structure so right now the finished model, no custom hands, one faceplate will be... 46 parts. 9 are completely done, 18 are just mirrored limb parts, so that only leaves 10 joint parts to just scale, 6 limb parts to cut holes for said joints in, and the head parts to knit.
Uh, you do know Shaoeways takes around 2wks to print and ship stuff, right? You're cutting it close getting anything printed now, even if it's just a few things.
>>5643811
Oh, and are you making your own joints or using pre made stuff like Hobby Base or Revoltech?
>>5643921
I'm designing them, it's a requirement by the professor.I'm allowing for proper clearance between each part, to his specifications.
I'm being overly optimistic with shapeways. Worst comes to worst I'll print it at school but, as those machines are overworked beyond the capabilities of staff to maintain them, the quality is a little lower than I'd like. It's not a required part of the project to print but this school is infamous for a low grading curve, any time you have a professor who can be 'gamed' for a grade higher than a C you have to. The professor loves toys and anime, and he loves overkill, so I'm hoping to earn a B-to-A by overachieving lol
>>5642883
Looks neat, Joe.
Did up a room for my archer. Very symmetrical and almost eerie in the sparseness and arrangements of things
>>5644018
Which works with his mono eye, since all he does in here is stare creepily into the mirror.
>>5642883
Rambo in space.
I don't think im great at any of this custom stuff but I enjoy it. This is an alien queen skull I made from an old mcfarlane queen. Ill post a few more. Wouldn't mind hearing thoughts
>>5644809
I carved out the mouth so it was more skull like, the original mcfarlane is a solid head. Ill answer any questions I can as well
>>5644820
I also cut out the holes on the back, and added some damage/age to the rest at random spots, not sure how well you can see them
>>5644826
On the bottom I used hot glue to full and sculpt where there was a plain hole for the neck to attach, im pretty happy with how the texture of that turned out. It looks good with the paint job in my opinion
looks neat
>>5644329
Its his rubber hair piece actually, the head under it is Ezio from the short NECA Assassin's Creed line.
>>5624957
Sweet
>>5645429
Its pandoras box from god of war, it came with a special edition of the game but I found mine on ebay. Its a pretty sweet base
Would this be more of a DIY than a custom? Shitty tetsuo chair. Basically done since idk anything about using clay
>>5643073
That's disappointing to hear. How long did you let it cure for?
>>5624945
Old toy magazines actively encouraged it
>>5646664
2 or 3 days the first time I inspected it. I expected it to be dry to touch after a day. But now it's been 5 days and it's still sticky and rubbing off on other pieces.
I'm thinking the normal acrylic (vallejo) made it weaker. I'm going to buy dry pigments and try again. I'm looking at Gamblin's artist color dry pigments. Pigments are crazy expensive and Gamblin's the most affordable that I can find.
>>5646709
I might just try the white again alone and see if it's any better. If it's not I'll just try a different, solvent-based, paint.
Anyone know what sort of pigments will work with a solvent based paint?
is safe to use a bootleg as base for a custom?
>>5647075
no, they are prone to explode if used as customs.
>>5647075
Be advised that the bootlegs have atrocious paint applications, use lead paint, will likely have molding imperfections, and joints are highly prone to breaking.
But, depending on your project's base bootleg it may not be too bad. The old archetype's that are being bootlegged are decent fodder but more complex designed figures (such as a bootleg MGS2 Snake or even Bride Saber) have more noticeable problems (particularly the joints snapping right out of the box). Always boil and gently disassemble a bootleg Figma. Other bootlegs of different companies I have no experiences with, but similar lines like Figuarts and Revoltech bootlegs are generally also bad in the ways I mentioned.
It's hearsay, but supposedly bootleg Marvel Legends are sturdier than legit Hasbro ones.
>>5647075
I can confirm that Bootleg NECA toys from experience aren't too bad. They're hit and miss on quality control, but almost all the Terminator 2 ones can pass for the real deal.
Solidworks anon here, I got the head to knit so I got the faceplate system done. I will be adding the part to attach the neck joint to the head next.
>>5647546
Heres the body assembly so far. Until the legs are set into place the hips done have anything to really 'stick' to so they're floating lol
>>5646732
I know that oil paints work well with bestine/rubber cement, and I've found that Testors enamels are great for coloring urethane resin, so it might be worth a shot too.
>>5647553
The most up to date assembly. Facellate system is complete, working on finishing the limbs now.
>https://twitter.com/torippy1992/status/727865350230970369
>https://twitter.com/torippy1992/status/727867822395662336
>https://twitter.com/torippy1992/status/727867801797431305
>>5647546
>>5647546
>>5647553
>>5648103
Nice! Might be too late, but don't make any ball joints smaller than 7mm if you're going by the Figma design. The tiny piece for locking it together is structurally too weak with a peg diameter of <2mm. Ball-socket style joints in WSF as small as Figma wrist sizes DO work though. Pic related is a recent print I finally got delivered. Fits just fine with new-style Figma wrists (approx. 4.90mm assembled). The trick with ball joints is accounting for the roughly .15mm of clearance/tolerance needed for pegs and whatnot. At least for me that seems to be it.
>>5648861
Other side.
>>5648864
I think the smallest joint has a 2mm peg diameter at the 4" size so I definitely should scale it up.
You have any pics of the figures you're working on?
>>5648861
I think it helps that my figure is proportionally 'chunkier' than Figma, so the smallest joint is still twice the size of a figma wrist joint. I just want to be safe in terms of durability lol
>>5648880
2mm is the bare-minimum thickness needed for pegs, so as long as the center peg in the figma-style ball joint is that thick you should be fine.
At the moment I'm trying to get parts finalized, especially joints themselves. The ball-socket joints I recently got are a success for wrists and very narrow ankles, so for future designs such as 1/12 animals like dogs or even something like an anatomically-correct velociraptor these will be perfect.
Half of what I ordered recently got canceled for the sprues being too narrow for printing in WSF, which is fucking weird because they're all 1mm in diameter. In any case, I still got refunded and I'll just have to make a separate order again with modified designs. It sucks because I had a big print of 6 pairs of bare feet (4 figma-compatible with varying designs, two pairs Shinki-compatible with different designs) along with a set of 4 paws for a 1/12 dog/wolf design I'd like to try down the road, as well as another print of connectable ball-sockets to make an articulated tail/tentacle.
In the words of Evil the Cat: "Another minor setback."
>>5649260
Jeez. Im just finishing up the upper thigh joint, added a snap-on joint to conntect the lowest torso joints with the upper legs. Now I'm onto knees and elbows, the arms will be last.
Looks like Im prinring through Fictiv. They're local with a 24hr minimum turnaround time so it should be fine. The proffessor is freaking out over the model, it's going well.
Hey, guys. Got a question.
I need to make a vacuum chamber for resin casting, but it's just a handful of small parts so I don't want to drop a lot of dosh on this. I've got an old manual bike pump that I can convert into a vacuum, but I don't know if that will be strong enough to pull the bubbles out of the resin while it cures.
Would it work if the chamber is really small?
>>5649499
It's meant to be a worn service road with some of the plants encroaching in on it.
>>5637506
>>5637837
Hey guys, he's been saved
>>5649817
>>5649385
Um. You might want to do a bit more research. You want to pressure cast your resin. Degassing is mostly for silicone and when you do it for more viscous plastics and stuff you do it BEFORE you pour them in the mold, and then pressure cast to push out any bubbles created by pouring the material into the mold. You want to cast resin around 45-60 psi, I try to stay around 60 just to be safe but it can be done lower.
>>5649499
Thank you! Should be 'done' by Sunday, but I hope to do customs using that base starting this summer. Not sure if I'll just upload the whole thing to Shapeways for sale for minimal markup, or sell the file itself for people to tinker with for lime $5 or $10.
>>5648103
Update! Workin on the arms!
how do painting joints
So the figure on the left is a preview from McFarlene's upcoming Walking Dead 7 inch Line (Articualtion not added yet)
Would it look weird if I put his head on NECA's older Arnie figure on the right? His body would probably be too bulky for Norman Reedus right?
I wanted to make a custom of the character you play as in P.T.. I'd just have to do a head swap and paint that shirt white, maybe shave off some of Reedus' longer hairs in front of his face.
Idunno... Are they any other figures with that body I can use? 5" or 7"?
>>5652293
Nobody is going to know the answer to that until the figure comes out, what kind of answer do you expect?
>>5642883
The Arabic word for autism
>>5624957
Email?
Is it easy to swap legs on current NECA figures? I Havent done it before
Hello everyone. Richfag here who's always wanted a figma of Arcueid. Since the remake of Tsukihime was pretty much cancelled, is there anyone here who can make me a Figma Arcueid that looks like pic related (which is from Axe Factory)? I'd be willing to pay a high price and provide you with all the materials you needed so you wouldn't have to use any bootleg figma parts or anything.
Please do have samples of your work available when you email me. Generally, you can name you fee so long as it isn't ridiculous and you have two options if you choose to do this:
>Name your materials, I'll buy them and ship them to you, you make the figure using the parts you need and then send the rest back, you'll be paid your commission fee for the figure itself.
>I pay you a lump sum and you can buy the materials yourself.
Please drop your email address here and I'll get in touch with you.
>>5654517
Source Image.
Working on a personal challenge to salvage some of those terrible GL movie masters. Making a forest fae out of one of them.
>>5654517
So you give people instructions on what to do when they email you, then you just tell them to leave their email? If you want a commission done just leave your email.
>>5654517
>Since the remake of Tsukihime was pretty much cancelled
Nasu just fucking said last month it was still in development.
>>5655684
It has been in development since 2007. That was nearly eleven years ago. Nasu does not experience time like us anon.
>>5655677
>>5654517
>>5654521
Fair enough, my email is [email protected]
Got some Apple cleaning cloths off of eBay and I think I can manage one cape out of one cloth. Just working on the drape for now, but it looks like only need to cut off a third of it straight down one side, then stagger some cuts along the bottom and maybe glue a strap or get some red electrical tape for the red stripe.
>>5655814
Goddamnit.
>>5655643
That's so fucking cool man, I love it.
>>5655892
It actually looks much better when the fabric has been broken in, so I've got some work ahead of me rolling this around some marbles or something.
>>5655643
How did you get so talented? Will you be my custom figure sensei?
>>5651231
bump
And guess what's 'done'! With a week to spare too.
Tomorrow I plan on finishing some quick faceplates and a stand, then it's off to Fictiv unless I can get the school to fund printing it fancier.
In the future I might edit the wrist and ankle joints but for now I'm happy. I have a classmate offering to help refine, mold, and cast parts in exchange for a few copies of his own, which sounds like a good deal for a goofy 4-week school project.
If I can nab a copy of Solidworks this summer I'd love to build some customs on the base. Now that I know how easy it is to model articulated toys I wanna see how far I can go.
>>5655898
Thanks!
>>5656304
I honestly don't think I'm doing anything that requires a ton of talent. I'm just throwing parts together based on vague ideas in my head whenever I see a base that suits a concept I want to pull of. I'm not beholden to any source materials either, so accuracy and any fine details is entirely up to my own discretion.
Guys like Papi Anon and physical and 3D sculptors who build up from scratch actually are the real heroes since they provide bases for guys like me to Frankenstein together.
>>5656787
>>5656796
>>5656801
Looks great so far! Who you planning to turn the first one into?
>>5656921
Thank you! I.. actually have no idea, the actual base body model was my goal and now that it's done I'm pretty happy. I may make a Mephisto Pheles for a good friend, that character choice seems appropriate somehow.
On the topic of the rest of your comment physical modeling is commendable in its own right. Cobbling together parts from different sources CLEANLY is an art in itself.
>>5656801
It looks great man, and it is pretty easy to do digitally but you have yet to do any of the hard stuff. When you start printing these out you'll see what I mean, especially if you're doing it yourself. Stuff that you would have sworn worked perfectly is going to come out wonky and you're going to go through a few iterations of this, doubly so since you are using your own style joint system.
Hey guys, after playing farcry primal I decided I want to make a custom takkar-like action figure. Only thing is I've never actually made a custom. The only experience I when is when I painted and gave a wash to my marvel legends toxin..
Anyway, I want a base body that's well articulated to get him into crouching poses but idk what to use. I thought about using a Daniel Bryan head on another body but I don't know how I feel about mattels wrestling figures articulation. Any advice would be appreciated .
>>5657072
If I want to know how articulation on a body is I watch a lot of reviews on youtube and search for photos of the figure in a dumb pose, WWE stuff is probably articulated enough for what you need but I'm not familiar with every single body.
>>5657021
^This. Joints are what's delaying me mainly since I WANT my own figures to be a one-stop purchase instead of having people needing to get joints elsewhere like Revoltech and Hobby Base.
Still, SolidWorks-anon your model looks pretty great. Looks like a Cu-Poche with a comparatively more normal body and head proportions.
>>5657021
>>5657194
Oh I am ready. I have some experience making snap-together 3D print pieces at stupidly tiny scales (designed in RHINO of all things), I'm ready for the suffering. I'm planning on printing on a SLS-type machine instead of a FDM-type machine because in the past the tolerances have been more model-accurate, though I would like to try printing the parts on a higher-end FDM machine later to see if they've gotten better (also cuz cheaper lol)
>>5657218
The thing about doing it SLS is that your joints are probably just going to snap, I wouldn't say photo reactive resin was fragile but it's a bit too delicate for something like that.
>>5658094
Are you perhaps thinking of stereolithography? Cuz unless I'm remembering my materials and processes class incorrectly SLS uses a laser to sinter powdered material, while stereolithography uses photoreactive resins.
just finished this guy. all poseabe except legs.
http://imgur.com/a/XrLBp
>>5658268
all sculpted from scratch
>>5658268
That is badass. Is the design original or is it based on something?
>>5658274
fully original thanks!
>>5658249
ugh, yeah, sorry was confusing SLA and SLS
What's a good starting point to learn how to model articulated figures for 3D printing? Aside from the usual modeling programs, I'm hearing Tinkercad and Tinkerplay for... Well, laying out articulation for figures.
As well, are they usually submitted to services, like Shapeways, or do you guys usually own your own 3D printers?
>>5658750
I've been in courses for Rhino, Alias, and Solidworks and so far Solidworks in the best fit for jointed figures. The Smart Dimension function, its handling of solids vs surfaces, and its vague physics engine is indispensible, at least for jointing. If you want more sculpted forms you might want to learn Zbrush or Mudbox, but you can still import and export the files from Solidworks for the 'engineering' portions.
Easiest way to remove paint off of Marvel Legends figures?
>>5658918
Specifically wanting to remove the paint from his alt head so I can do a proper repaint.
>>5658922
Thanks friend.
>>5648861
>>5648864
[Excited client noises]
>>5658926
No, use NON-ACETONE nail-polish remover. Acetone melts plastic.
>>5658940
That makes it effective at removing paint. Just don't apply it in retarded amounts
>>5630770
I don't even have it right now. Once I can hook my harddrive up to a new machine I'll post it in one of the threads.
>>5656933
You might have a point. I just always put more weight in scratch building than kit bashing.
>>5658268
Looks really nice! Reminds me of an Indie comic book character done with fluid albeit rough lines.
Did up a base with the bloody remains of a victim from sculpted guts and spare parts.
>>5660114
With the figure.
>>5660118
And the last two bases I did up quickly for the other two. Less work on these ones. Just a slap of pumice gel, turf and paint.
>>5660114
Thanks fakimus. Keep making cool shit
>>5658934
>that body
oh lordy, im excited to see how the end result looks too.
>>5659207
Oh thanks man
I've been working with an unedited reference and realized halfway though distortion was a thing
Could I use acetone to remove the 'dirt' paint on the Black Series Scout Trooper?
Was thinking about applying it with a qtip, and just wiping it off. Those parts are cast in white plastic, right?
Will it work?
>>5660838
Yes, but you'll likely end up melting the plastic somewhat as well, leaving a streaked/marbled after effect as a result (best case scenario). I advise against it. Better bet is to just paint over it, since it's a plain white.
Working on faceplates. I think a screaming rageface and a drooly face would round out the set?
On a hilarious note Shapeways wants $170 to print the whole thing sans faceplates but Fictiv is faster AND just wants $60. for the whole thing, faces and all.
>>5660863
What material on shapeways and what on fictiv?
>>5630204
Looks like dark souls wolf knight armor. I'd go with a darker blue color
>>5660868
Strong and Flexible on Shapeways, PLA ON fictiv. I might spring the extra bucks for ABS so I can shave sanding time with a vapor bath.
>>5660872
Vapor bath? Those are two entirely different types of 3D printing.
Strong and flexible is done by SLS. Even with the same layer height it produces much higher resolution (better detail) than FDM, which is most likely what PLA ON is if it needs a vapor bath. FDM is a very imprecise method of printing and strong and flexible will probably end up looking better. Just how big is that thing anyway?
>>5660876
Given the scale, the vapor bath should smooth out the steps in the surface even cleaner than polished SLS without any of the warping associated with larger parts. I'm getting walked through the process by a classmate who has his own printer, only reason he's not printing the thing himself is because he's tied up printing his own finals.
The assembled figure is 5", but it's got 50 parts. My main goal in the short term is to have a prototype printed as part of my final presentation next week. After that I'll see what I wanna do with the model. Best case scenario I'll also clean up and pull molds of some of the parts, but mostly this is just for the presentation and to test the joints b
>>5660896
Someone on here or /diy/'s 3DPG might have a SLA or DLP printer that can print it for you in resin. Might be a little cheaper than shapeways if you can find someone generous.
>>5660863
Are you printing each part as individual pieces or are you printing the whole thing as one print connected by runners like a model kit?
>>5660905
AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA no, no one with an SLA or DLP printer will charge you anywhere near less than shapeways
>>5660905
>>5661323
Yeah, if I'm having anyone not associated with a school or business print it it's going to be the classmate cuz his listed price is $0.00 in exchange for personal use of the parts file. Part of this major is learning how to fix and refine models and prints so this will be good practice fixing an ABS model before I'm legit required to next semester.
>>5661250
Whichever comes out to less expensive in the short term. Fictiv's main charge is a $10 'labor' fee per file and they're seemingly not concerned about the parts being connected so its cheaper not to bother with them, but Shapeways has issues with it so I may set the parts into sprue trees in the future.
>>5661449
Yeah, sprues are necessary for doing multiple parts in Shapeways. Helps that SolidWorks can let you save an assembly as an entire STL file, just gotta have one file with spues to mate other parts with in the assembly.
