This thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resin) models kits.
-Post photos of your builds in progress and your finished builds
-Have your builds critiqued or critique others
-Discuss tips and techniques
-Ask for advice or give advice to others
The World War II group build is going on now and ends on March 31.
Some helpful guides to get started:
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20%28Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step%29.pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com/
previous thread >>5511575
I'm not the guy that usually makes new threads, but saw the old was was dying so here you go.
Oh hey guys
is the cement used for my scale tanks applicable to 1/24 scale cars?
>>5550635
sure.
you should be careful if you are gluing transparent parts like windows
Done
>>5550791
Roughly 1/100.
Working on a Tamiya Fw-190F-8, no aftermarket or anything, straight out of box. Still a very solid kit despite it being over 20 years old.
>>5551083
Im down with that paintjob
Just finished an Eduard I-16. Will post pics when I get home (sorry in advance for the still shitty paint job).
I'm thinking about the airfix seafire FR.47as my next project. Anything to note about their kits in general?
>>5551146
Not that good in my experience, but not too bad.
>>5551120
Thanks, I still have to do the "mottling" or whatever it's called on the sides, then it should be done. Oh, and the markings which I'm probably going to make some stencils for the crosshairs and whatnot.
I also picked up a Tamiya bf-109 on sale as well which I'm gonna do once the 190 is finished, only I got some aftermarket for the cockpit (eduard zoom set and some resin gun barrels). Got both kits for only $30.
Once I get these two kits though I got a 1/350 Hasegawa Shimakaze in the mail. Love these Tamiya kits because they can be completely finished in a few days easily.
>>5551151
>>5551146
Newer airfix kits are great for their price, but be wary because some of their kits are very, VERY old tooling from the 1960s and 70s. However, most of their recent-tooled kits (post~2010 or so) are excellent, cheap kits. For example, their bf-109 is a really great kit, probably one of the better 1/48 options. They also just came out with a Defiant which is supposed to be a really great kit as well for its price.
In my experience though, with airfix in general be expecting to clean up a lot of injection mold lines, even in newer kits.
The kit you mentioned though is from the 1990s though, so it's a bit more recent than that, but like I said, it's based on older airfix sprues, reboxed with a few new parts.
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/100302-airfix-a06103-supermarine-seafire-fr-46-fr-47
>>5551083
did you freehand the wave paint job on it or did you mask it?
>>5551295
free-hand, using a small nozzle, low pressure and a thinned paint. It was all done using tamiya acrylics by the way.
>>5550674
Looks great!
Only thing that sticks out in my opinion is the AT-AT's feet not being submerged in snow.
Since my tank's front plate will have one or two non-penetrating hits on it, I made some heavy chipping on the inside where I want the hit to be later.
>>5553066
How do you achieve 'battle damage'?
Because I figure that all the ricochets and machine gun hits must of left some mark, if only chipped paint.
>>5553066
Are you the sturmtiger guy? Man you've been working on that for a long time, looks good though.
Only suggestion would be to do some dark brown dry-brushing on some of the interior white surfaces to make them look a little grimy / more worn.
>>5553106
More than one year as of now. Thanks for the compliment!
As soon as I'm finished with the interior chipping, I'll move on to washing, then fading and last but not least dust and dirt.
After that it's time to move to the exterior.
>>5553072
My guess is, if you want to achieve something like pic related, you could use a soldering iron at low temp and / or Milliput and a Dremel. Gonna try that on a piece of plastic to see if it works tho.
>>5553145
another way is to heat up a screwdriver or something like that with a lighter, a lot less intense than a soldering iron.
This paint scheme is killing me but I want to finish it for the group build
>>5553168
Academy hetzer guy?
Don't you get masks for the model?
>>5553168
It looks amazing. What colors do you use? Tamiya?
>>5553175
Academy. You do and I used them but when it's time to apply them it's a pain in the ass because they don't go on a flat surface but on one that has raised detail, handles and such. It's not as easy as it seems. Next time I'll buy the early version so that I wouldn't have to deal with this shit.
>>5553217
AMMO from mig
>>5553262
Haven't used them all that much and they clean out of the airbrush well but in my experience they're not very durable.
>>5553288
As in they chip easily?
Vallejo paints are quite similar. I'll never forget when I almost ruined a BA-64 by scrubbing enamel wash off with a cotton bud.
>>5553322
Sort of. They're kinda inconsistent. I was thinning them down with distilled water so maybe that has something to do with it.
I seal my models with future before a wash to be safe.
>>5553322
One of my 38cm grenades got ruined trying to apply a filter.
I noticed my Mineral Spirits by Schmincke are a lot less aggressive than Revell's Enamel thinner tho.
>>5553341
future does not seem to be available in the UK.
I used a coat of satin like Mig said, but in future I will use a gloss coat.
>>5553347
I used Humbrol enamel thinners. My lesson is too use a lot less and a nicer quality brush so bristles don't fuck my shit up.
I wonder if Mig's own thinners are better for weathering or just plain old enamel thinner in a fancy bottle.
>>5553347
Tell me more about this filter. I recently purchased AK (or mig, can't remember) Nato camo filter and it would be my first time using them.
how was the grenade ruined?
>>5553391
that was a filter with oil colors (selfmade), the ammo of mig filter I bought was okay though and went on a lot nicer when I tested it. I heard it should be applied on matte surfaces tho
>>5553391
Filters are generally a much thinner wash, something like 95%+ thinner to 5% paint. You spread them over the entire model, or whatever section you are filtering with a large, soft brush. It basically provides some tonal variation to the main paint so that it's not just a single monotone color. It's usually applied before a gloss coat in my experience, as the texture of the paint helps absorb and hold onto the pigments better.
Here's a test I did using Tamiya acrylics on an older build to try and make a filter. I wouldn't recommend using acylics as a filter because they are hard to get off an enamel paint for some reason, while enamel filters are pretty easy to clean up with excess mineral spirits.
I'm not sure how thinned AK's filters are, but you should check to see before applying it to make sure it's not over-done. I've used pre-made MIG filters in the past and they are pretty thin. I mostly make my own now though just using enamel paints and mineral spirits. Alternatively I've made filters using Tamiya acrylics, but only if I'm using an enamel paint.
>>5553582
Is that the Tamiya Jagdpanzer IV? I seem to recall it from the past. How do you deal with vinyl tracks? I have a 1/35 Trumpeter LAV-A2 and it has vinyl tyres and they're shit because nothing sticks to them. Yes, I washed them before painting. I primed them with Alclad's primer and it just flakes off.
>>5553608
>How do you deal with vinyl tracks?
You buy better tracks from the aftermarket.
>>5553616
>paying 50 euros for a kit
>have to replace the tracks
Fuck Tamiya. I'm glad I have Friul tracks for a Panther D now I only need the kit.
>>5553647
I don't buy kits with rubber tracks. Tamiya 1/48 stuff has nice plastic tracks btw.
>>5553608
Yes, it's the JP IV, an excellent kit by the way. Newer Tamiya kits don't have Vinyl tracks, you can even glue them together with plastic cement, I don't know the specific material they're made out of, but they are just fine. They're pretty detailed as well honestly.
>>5553682
I'll add that I think the material they're made out of is the same material that Dragon's tracks that come with their (more recent) smart kits are made from.
That said, obviously aftermarket is an option for Tamiya kits, but that said let's dispel this fiction that Tamiya's tracks are awful.
>>5553742
I think I primed with mr surfacer and then painted with enamels.
>>5553390
>future does not seem to be available in the UK.
http://www.sainsburys.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/gb/groceries/pledge-multi-surface-wax-750ml?langId=44&storeId=10151&krypto=4VIQXFlECEseRhyoDV5vWMQAs9Vg4JkjMdBMActRU5GPOWMVxA0vHsGA%2Fo8Bx4J5BFCOUGNyDF1F0RBVy3tZ11iveZSHPhTG5ha7VtaWvrQDdNfe8HoRHv1WknzL8KZsJ9OGRpnNBGjJ500vdVjvhb1lBSA1SqUC1t7QsuXeHC4%3D&ddkey=http%3Agb%2Fgroceries%2Fpledge-multi-surface-wax-750ml
>>5554829
>That long-ass link
I don't live in the UK, but I think the alternative there is something called Klear.
>>5554874
>that yellowing
Accurate
>>5554881
I don't know about Klear, but pledge future doesn't yellow. I have models that are over 6 years old coated with future and they look just fine.
>>5554887
>pledge future doesn't yellow
Yes it does, in the bottle, slightly. I have a bottle of "Pledge with Future" that is slightly yellowed.
You probably just don't see a difference when it's been applied to a model.
>>5554874
It's now called Multi Surface Wax.
>>5555482
you posted that pic a few month ago already, what about it?
I'm new to aftermarket thing and I need a 1/35 105 l7 gun because I plan to make a Battlemaster out of takom's type 69. This is something I had been planing for a while and I really wish to start with it.
>>5556539
>Generals
my heart goes out to you fellow anon.
>>5556539
Upon retrospect, I should have asked where should I look for said metal barrels in the UK?
>>5556884
aren't there big online hobby shops in the uk?
Try sockelshop.de or modellbau-koenig.de if you don't mind to order in germany. their inventory is huge
>>5556906
I couldn't find any barrels in their stocks.
Thanks for the links!
Fuck anon, hold me ;_;
I was using my airbrush and wasn't paying attention and the compressor moved due to its vibrations over the edge of the table and broke into 2 parts ;_; fuck my life
>>5556970
http://www.dersockelshop.de/modellbausaetze/militaermodellbau/massstab-1-35/1-35-zuruest-sets/1-35-geschuetzrohre/
http://www.modellbau-koenig.de/Barrels_c52.htm
Did you even look?
>>5557192
I meant the UK stocks.
I already have dibs on the tiran barrel.
Oh look. Another shit post o rama where noone contributes new oc and everyone is a professional
>>5557189
you mean the pump broke from the tank?
irreparable?
sux man.
>>5557253
There are like less than 30 people people posting here and probably less than that actively building something. This isn't WIP general on /tg/, fuck off nigger.
Does anybody here know where to buy spare Iwata airbrush parts in Japan, by any chance? I'll be visiting Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto in a few days and I want to stock up on them without the shipping costs.
Finishing up this Tamiya Fw-190 I've been working on for about a week now. Currently weathering, then sealing my work with a flat coat of paint as I go. Basically just doing some fading / streaking on the wings.
Also, the shit underneath is is a Tamiya bf-109 I got alongside the Fw-190 for cheap, working on that while paint dries and whatnot.
Only thing I'll have left to do once done with the filters / streaking will be some light chipping using a silver pencil, and maybe some mud on the tires, as well as some black soot on the exhausts.
Might as well post a small update.
Got done washing the hull today, used Ammo's Brown wash for Dark yellow (on the white parts) and Dark Brown Wash for Green Vehicles (on the red primer)
Why is 1/48 a much less popular scale than 1/35 or 1/72?
>>5561138
For what? Armor? For aircraft 1/48 is the most popular for single engine aircraft, and 1/72 for twin engine+.
utter newfag here
what is a group build?
>>5561147
For armour yes.
But then aircraft seem to be far more popular in general.
>>5561204
when a number of people build a particular model, say a Sherman tank, or make a model from a particular period, like ww1.
Finished it completely. Canopy got kinda fucked up somehow, I think the masking tape kinda peeled off a very slight amount and my clear coat seeped in a little.
>>5561102
Looking really good, have you done any work on the exterior yet, or only the interior?
>>5561359
Also had to peel off some of the decals, which was a pain in the ass. The kit I bought was part of someone's old collection, open box and all and the decals were terrible. Replaced the swastika with an extra I had from another kit luckily.
>>5561206
Tamiya is literally the only one that produces vehicles that scale.
>>5561492
There's Hobbyboss, AFV Club and Bronco
>>5561497
There's more than that too, it's just Tamiya is basically the only manufacturer actively releasing a few new 1:48 armor kits each year.
>>5561359
Still looking damn nice, anon
I've only done paintwork on the interior, althought the exterior is nearly finished construction-wise. As soon as the interior is finished, progress should speed up a lot.
Starwars guy here
Just picked up a speederbike from 1983. Gonna do some sculpting for the first time. Wish me luck
>>5561888
why.jpeg, when there's a brand-spanking new Bandai one?
>>5561915
Because I got the amt one for 8 bucks. Gonna sculpt the figure like pic reated. Aluminum rod going through the foot into the base. Its going to be very difficult so I wouldnt want to spend 50ish on the bandai kit
Shit you guys, I have a problem. I touched some salt and water on to do a standard chipping effect. I then preshaded over it. When i pit the topcoat on though, this happened everywhere there was water. What the fuck how do i fix this?
Ok, i must have put water on it before it was completely cured. I rubbed most of the marks off, did a little sanding for scratches, etc.
Feedback time. Should I reprime and start over or leave it weathered like pic related?
>>5562162
The first pic was a mistake. Water on acrylic before it had cured caused that bubbly shit
I guess ill just reprime and start over
>>5562162
>>5562186
idk what that guy is talking about, it doesn't look that bad. Maybe a little bit too much in terms of scratches / weathering, but it doesn't look terrible.
Only suggestion is to use a little more metallic of a color for the chipping. Looks more like a light grey than a steel / metal look.
>>5562217
Yea, I used aluminum. I believe I rubbed through it and down to the primer tryinng to fix it.
Protip: dont be impatient and let bottom coats fully cure
>>5562250
Cleaned it up a little bit. Thanks for putting up with me
>>5553168
Airbrushing is mostly done just got to paint the gun shield. Brush paintingvthe details from now on.
>>5562258
Actually looks better now. Personally I would keep it as is.
>make lovely little 1/72 Dragon sherman tank
>browning gun is highly detailed
>break the handle when cutting it out of the grossly oversized sprue gates
;________;
>>5562946
I wish Dragon still made good 1/72 armor kits. Their new ones are crap.
>>5562946
this guy
Anyone know Dragon's spares policy? I'm not above lying.
Guys I want to make a scale model of a no man's sky ship like pic related.
Anyone know of any resources out there?
>>5563015
Can't you just glue it back together. Post a pic.
>>5563027
I can't at the moment, but no. It was too small for my sausage fingers and one half collapsed in on itself.
tl;dr it's fucked
>>5562762
Looking good anon
>>5563017
I don't know, maybe 3D printing if you know CAD, but otherwise probably no way to replicate it.
>>5563030
Use metallic wire to make handles, works pretty well.
I know what you mean though about their sprues, sometimes they pick the absolute worst place to have the injection point.
>>5563205
It's an odd shaped handle, but I could probably make a crude replacement.
It's just irritating how such nice kits are let down by idiotic sprue placement and thickness.
Heads up, the April issue of FineScale Modeler has an awesome article on doing oceans and wakes. This is 1/350 for reference. This guy named Chris Flodberg spent 2 years trying different techniques of how to make water look best.
>>5563017
the collectors edition literally comes with one
wait for that and either measure or just paint that
Fuck. I lost the needle adjustment knob for my airbrush
Also any tips to avoid tip dry with acrylics?
>>5563304
>that wave coloration near the hull
that really looks great
>>5550264
Not a modeler, but I'd thought I'd comment on OP's pic reminding me of this scratch built model dio of the Edmund Fitzgerald wreckage. It's at the Madison Wisconson Maritime Museum if you want to check it out yourself.
Post more shipwreck models if you got'em. I got a Thanatos obsession for shipwrecks.
>>5563368
I purchased a 1:350 revel Bismarck somebody had built poorly for that sole purpose. paid I think £7 for it.
Is Arpeggio of Blue Steel worth getting into so I have an excuse to buy cool boats?
>>5563414
you can like boats without some animu bullshit just fyi
I say this as someone who likes gunpla too
>>5563414
I really like ships, they're pretty damn fun to build honestly, pretty tedious, but still really fun.
Pic related, I have this currently in the mail, along with some photo etch upgrade parts as well as a Linoleum deck thing.
They just look incredible once finished with painting and weathering, so many small details and whatnot.
>>5563368
Pretty cool anon, reminded me of this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9vST6hVRj2A
Also, I don't know where the anon that posted that image in the last thread is, wish he would post an update on his shipwreck WIP, looks pretty awesome.
On the topic of ship kits: Has anyone had any experience with Fujimi's kits? A lot of their IJN offerings have a really appealing price tag, so I'm kinda tempted to buy a few, but I haven't really been able to dig up much about the build quality of their more recent kits.
Are they any good, or should I just stick to Tamiya and Hasegawa?
>>5563660
Never build them, as they're very hard to come by outside of Japan, but I have heard good things about them. They're supposedly on-par with the likes of Tamiya and Hasegawa in terms of quality.
>>5563660
Fujimi's kits really vary. In general I would say that they are worse than the newer offerings by Hasegawa/Tamiya/Aoshima (any of the newly-tooled waterline series after about 2000) but they are superior in the places where H/T/A are still issuing the old 1970s kits (particularly older destroyers like the Wakatake). So on a ship to ship basis, it goes like this:
Fujimi Kongo > Hasegawa Kongo
Fujimi Nagato <<< Aoshima Nagato (it's a brand new retool (2013) with tons of sprues)
Fujimi Yamato =< Tamiya Yamato
You'll have to do some research on when the kits were released, because like H/T/A, Fujimi is also still issuing kits from the 1970s/80s from before they left the waterline series partnership.
The one thing I can say is that they do offer some ships that nobody else does, like the Battlecruiser version of the Amagi or the Ryujo pre-modernization. Unless you want to go resin (pro-tip: don't go resin), the fujimi version is your only option.
I did a tiny u-boat. Hobby Boss 1/350 Type VIIC. Had to freehand the camo because the masking tape was damaging the paint layers. I'm working on a Type IXC now.
>>5563874
Lesson learned: never try to use a cell-phone camera to do close-up shots
Does /toy/ ever overhaul their older models?
I had this M4A1 that got damaged in my move to VA, with some spare parts from other kits I was able to mostly repair it. (The hull MG, tracks and headlights are what were mostly damaged) and I also added a .30 cal for the roof, the 1919 is period accurate but I'm not sure if the mount is. It came from a vietnam era gunboat kit. Tracks are on order, any idea how I can mount the M2 .50 on the turret rear? I have several extra .50's but no mount. I also went outside and gathered some twigs to see what they looked like. What else should be done?
>>5563893
Here's another pic.
>>5562258
Some advice: What kind of paint did you use for the base metal color? For the salt weathering method, you want to do a base coat of enamel or laquer with the top coat as acrylic.
This way the bottom coat wont rub off with the top coat, ruining the effect.
>>5550264
who makes a good F-15E kit?
>>5563871
>>5563874
>>5563878
>>5563893
Nice. Better than mine. I fucked up the camo.
How did you find the build? It was frustrating at times for me because the parts were really small.
>>5564081
Did you mean to respond to me, the M4A1 guy? I like your submarine though.
>>5564085
No. I was posting on my phone.
>>5564070
What scale? Eduard has a few decent 1:48 kits, based on an older Academy kit but with Eduard aftermarket stuff and some additional sprues.
There's a lot more 1:72 kits of the F-15E though, don't know much about it in that scale though. Eduard kit is probably the BEST F-15 you could build OOB since they come with so much aftermarket already.
link related, review of the eduard kit, looks pretty fantastic to me desu, probably a bit expensive though.
http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234939848-fighting-eagle-limited-edition-148-eduard/
>>5564081
Thanks! The build was pretty frustrating- I actually broke the little strut that connects the rudder cage to the keel, so i had to fashion a replacement by cutting up one of the rails that the Photoetch replaces. It's also really annoying that hobbyboss decided to put the hull split right through the torpedo tube door. had to use a lot of putty to get it to look right.
>>5564044
Thats a good idea. Thanks
Have any of you guys ever built a ship kit from Bluejacket?
>>5564420
no I haven't. but most of these wooden boat building kits tend to be the same principle.
what boat you thinking of getting?
I have a few wooden boat kits to put together.
titanic, Bismarck, victory.
there is a vid in that site.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V7Rtle5CGpk#t=112
its a pricey route for a model boat.
guys, how much have you spent on supplies for your airbrush(paints, masking tape, varnish)?
>>5564690
too much
I've accumulated a lot, it's worth not being a cheapskate and buying the best paints/varnish/glue
>>5564690
a lot. but over a long period of time. I look for special offers, usually pay about half price for everything.
sometimes buying paints in bulk offers works out cheaper then buying them all individually.
buying multiple things from the same seller can save on shipping.
sometimes you have to buy and try things to find out what you like and don't like also,
having and using the right combination of tools. what works for one person wont work for another.
it isn't like the old days of just get some paints and a brush.
I wish more companies made 1:1 scale models. I would love a Ghost from Destiny
>>5564758
make it yourself, it has a farily simple shape.
>>5564690
way to much to buy everything at once.
but i'm a very slow builder anyway so still have some pots of tamiya paint i bought when i was 15. That was more than 10 years ago.
divided through all the years i probably spend less than 100/year. (excluding the actual kits ofc, that is a different story)
>>5564758
actually took a few seconds to find them all over the internet. etsy, shapeways, etc.
So I'm painting my Hetzer and I though of something. What do you prefer painting or building your models? I have so many started kits because I find painting frustrating. I prefer putting things together and scratchbuilding because having painting so few kits I can't get the hang of painting because I do it so often. What about you? Maybe you like weathering the most?
>>5565021
clearly the building and converting for me. while i enjoy painting a squad of soldiers once in a while i hate to paint vehicles.
>>5565021
I like building more, until I actually start painting with the airbrush and realize it's a lot of fun and very satisfying. The problem is painting can sometimes take so damn long that it's kinda off-putting, especially for complex camouflage schemes that you have to putty and whatnot.
>>5565092
I love airbrushing. I hate to clean it after each color though
>>5565106
Speaking of that, I found a really easy way to clean between colors. If you're using Tamiya acrylics, windex works really well. Just spray a little bit into the airbrush, and using a stiff paintbrush, swirl around inside the paint cup to remove all the paint, and then just airbrush it out. Very fast and simple way to clean it.
For other colors I use a lacquer thinner via pipette and the same paintbrush.
I barely ever completely disassemble my airbrush either, maybe once per every 2-3 weeks as the lacquer thinner + old paintbrush clears up everything really well.
>>5565124
the active ingredient in windex is the ammonia, so be sure to get the one with ammonia in it (or just straight ammonia)
>>5562762
Almost done with painting
>>5564169
That's actually the F-15E. Sorry to be nitpicky.
>>5565249
*F-15C
>>5565249
>>5565250
Eduard also makes an F-15E, but they're very similar kits.
Finally finished. First in many many months, hopefully not the last.
>>5553072
>>5553145
>>5553151
>>5565288
these are from a tank museum in the uk
theyre targets for tanks
>>5565291
>>5565296
yeah different types
like i said theyre like targets for AP shells
>>5565298
>>5565299
>>5565302
>>5565303
tiger 131's damage
>>5565273
Looks great, very clean and sleek
>>5565306
>>5565298
yes but there are many kinds of "AP" shell. Just off the top of my heat you got:
HESH
HEAT
APDS
APFSDS
APCR
and most of them will have different looking penetration points depending on the type of penetration effect. It depends on the time period and the subject you're modeling. I'm not entirely sure, but I think the ones shot at an angle are HEAT with a ballistic cap but I'm not sure about the ones shot at a perpendicular angle
>>5565310
ww1 mk 1 tank damage from a flack 88
>>5565312
IIRC they were "different" types of shells at different distances and angles
>>5565318
detail shot of some "waffle" plating
>>5565331
Hey /toy/ does anyone here have experience with 1/35 scale model RC? I want to make something amphibious, was thinking either an LAV-25 or a LTV from WW2. I know little of doing the electronics from scratch though. Any advice?
>>5565124
You're best off pouring it out of the cup. There'll be dried paint in that swill and all it will do is clog your nozzle.
>>5565134
But beware, ammonia will strip cheap Chinese airbrush's chrome finish back to the copper.
>>5550674
General ideas
>cover feet a bit
>cover left turret a bit
>maybe add smoke to crashed
>lot of empty spafe in middle, maybe add trenches and some rebel figures?
I'll be getting picrelated next week, anyone familiar with this kit?
>>5565432
My airbrush isn't the most high-end (Badger), but it has stripped some of the chrome plating on the inside of the cup, but it looks more like brass than copper. Doesn't affect the performance of the airbrush though.
>>5565432
Pretty sure even eclipses use brass.
The problem with Chinese airbrushes isn't the construction material, it's the tolerances. The standard just isn't as good and your chances of getting a terrible one are very high, though there's a tiny chance you can get an excellent one.
That and o-rings, but that's more of a design issue. Even some brandname brushes like the Neo uses o-rings IIRC, but solvent resistant teflon o-rings. In fact, I'm pretty sure Neos are actually Chinese rebrands that have a higher standard for tolerances.
>>5565937
my based badger krome uses no o-rings at all, and it is perfection. The nozzle doesn't screw on, it just sits in the hole that leads to the paint cup. As I said above though, I think ammonia or strong lacquer thinner has eaten away at the chrome on the inside, but it still works just fine after over 3 years of use.
>>5565273
More pics? I thought you were doing the Australian version.
>>5565937
The NEO uses rubber o-rings. They're shit. They're also not easy to replace being so small and Iwata charges a premium. The H&S ultra uses HPS or teflon or something instead and they're only $5 for 3 to replace I believe.
And my Cheap Chinese brushes are definitely copper. You're right about the NEO's heritage though and the general problem with Chinese made brushes. I bought an Iwata HPCS knock-off and the nozzle isn't centrested in the crown-cap AND that crown cap's aperture is too big for the nozzle in the first place. Ergo, it sprays like shit and needs to be returned.
>>5566170
HPCH*
>>5565623
Thanks man. I had sculpted some trenches/footprints but the snow effect covered it. Might add some 1/144 figs
>>5565949
I hate my Chrome, it always sputters
Thinking about getting pic related, as it's relatively hard to get in Germany and MBK got it in stock again. Is this kit any good?
>>5566612
>as it's relatively hard to get in Germany and MBK got it in stock again
I would rather order it in japan. MBK is pretty expensive in my experience
>>5566624
47,50 Euros, it's okay but not excellent
>>5566624
You have to pay VAT and other taxes in EU if you order from outside the EU if the total value of the package including shipping is more than 23 Euros. Then prices are roughly the same as in EU if you order from China or Japan.
>>5566612
Not trying to hate, but the Maus just looks like such a boring kit. It's just a box of armor with nothing special to it other than being one of the heaviest AFVs of all time.
>>5567046
True, not only boring to build, but also very boring to paint i imagine.
I have no idea about the actual kit quality though
>>5564590
I wanted to build a T-2 tanker for my grandfather, he's getting really old now and gets more nostalgic about it
The ship he was on was the Saranac
It's tough to find kits of it, and the bluejacket one seems less expensive than like the battleships etc.
>>5567062
To me, the fascination is what you make of that big steel brick. Sure, the tank itself looks boring, but hey.
>>5567046
I have to agree with that one in particular.
there seems to have been quite a few large tank designs.
I saw this pic, don't know if its real.
>>5567075
400 dollars seems okay for what it is I think.
>>5567144
>>5567144
That isn't real. It was a "Tiger I" made out of I think a T-55 or some shit for some shitty Russian movie.
>>5567191
still looks better than the fucking maus
Working on Tamiya bf-109 E-4/E-7. Used eduard zoom set for the interior, and some resin guns for the exterior. Still a pretty decent kit even though there are much better 109s available today.
>>5567197
>>5567213
A little heavy on the preshading there methinks
>>5567541
Yeah, I did lay it on a little thick, but it's almost all going to be covered up, I don't leave much of it peaking through.
pic related, still working on this will take a while longer just to finish up this color.
>>5567670
A mix between pre shading and black basing?
>>5567691
Sort of. I don't like that black basing technique for every color, I think it works really well for grey and other modern aircraft colors, but for WWII colorful camouflages, I prefer to have a grey base with black / dark grey pre-shading. I just really don't like using a black base when I'm going to be using dark green and greyish colors for the camouflage.
>>5567670
Looks really good
>>5568226
Thanks, almost done with the paintwork now, just need to do the mottling effect on the sides, then I will probably make some stencils for the iron crosses on the wings.
I hope the RLM colors came out alright though, instructions said to use Tamiya AS-3 and AS-4 for the colors, and I had no idea what RLM colors they corresponded to until I looked it up, and it's apparently RLM 74 and RLM 75. Used enamel RLM 75 and 74 as a reference and mixed my own colors using Tamiya acrylics.
I regret gluing the cockpit on before painting though, as there is a little hole that the antenna sits in (I didn't glue it in yet) and I think when I was painting some fumes got into that hole and fogged up some of the inside of the cockpit. I used Tamiya cement too... so I have no idea how I'm going to pry it off to wipe down the inside with a cotton swab.
Should I keep trying to make this the tank from Fury? Or should I repaint the barrel?
>>5569666
nice trips
the tank is okay, I think the concept is neat, so don't repaint the barrel.
>>5569755
Thanks, I was just worried it would be faddish to make a model like how it was from a movie.
>>5569757
It was a good movie, so why not?
>>5569758
I enjoyed it a lot too, I guess one of the reasons I want to try my hand at it is because there is a lot going on with the tank, so I can practice new things. Tamiya's new M4A3E8 kit was really fun to build too.
>>5569666
was the tank from fury that black? I assumed most are just the standard Olive Drab.
>>5567213
man the bf-109 is such a based fighter.
It's beyond me why Tamiya makes like 5 versions of the fw-190, A6M, and P-51 each but can't fucking make an F or G version of the 109!
>>5569835
Its more of the fluorescent lighting and how my phone picks it up. In fury though it was a very very dark green with black stripes, I think I got the colors alright.
How does the hairspray technique look with Tamiya colours?
What are the best acrylic colours to use that technique on?
>>5569760
>>5569758
[spoilers/] It was good until the end scene where they had to hold the road for no reason. Like I get they needed to for the greater good, but they knew(even though with story magic) they would be blow the fuck out anyways, and them being there wouldn't make a difference. It was march 1945 it's not like them being there would make any different outcome on the war.
but on top that half way through the battle the german SS officer somehow finds time and thinks it's appropriate to give a pep talk to his troops.
I know I'm being finicky but the movie was so good and realistic up to that point, but than had to devolve itself to a michael bay movie.
>>5569844
well in any event your build it looks nice to say the least
>>5569847
That SS officer part was actually pretty out of place, I agree.
It drives me mad when people say the Tiger duel was overly unrealistic. From what I understand though they orchestrated the movie from a lot of anecdotal events, like when Audie Murhpy held of a battalion of germans with .50, still was very over the top. Although if I remember correctly they were worried about that SS group wiping out their support element of doctors and logistic people.
>>5569850
Thanks, anon.
>>5569847
>It was good until the end scene
Nah the characters were boring and I couldn't even remember most of their names.
If you call it an anti-war movie then there should be atleast a critical deception or settlement about the way the german POW were treated.
And why the hell did that german MG42 shoot at the allied tank column?
The movie also had a few historical mistakes such as the green tracer rounds that were used by the germans. In reality they were yellow.
The tiger tank was an early version that was used in north africa and not in 1945.
Why the fuck was that Tiger tank driving towards the shermans?
It had good cover and it would have been easy for him to take out those shermans from a distance.
German tanks rarely shot while driving. Wasting ammo was punishable.
Also a shell from a sherman tank would have destroyed the sides of the Tiger easily.
Shooting at its rear was unnecessary.
Why was the tiger tank without any infantry
support?
Now why the fuck did Waffen SS march during day time? The allies had air and ground superiority in 1945 and to top it off they even sang a song...
Why didn't they shoot the sherman tank with their Panzerfausts earlier? In the marching scene there were several german soldiers with Panzerfausts.
Later on they used them but they didn't do any damange.
The only scene that had some sort of depth was where the german soldier discovered Norm under the tank but he took no action.
>>5569881
that's because the tiger was 131 which is in the only surviving functioning Tiger, which was captured in tunisia. It has an interesting history if you're willing to look into it.
>>5569894
Hmm I didn't know that.
Atleast they didn't used that T34 Tiger tank like in Private Ryan
>>5569841
I don't know either, at least Zvezda makes a nice F-2 and F-4 in 1:48, and they're coming out with a new G-6 this year.
Airfix's bf-109 is ok too, especially considering the price.
Still, wonder why Tamiya never did a Gustav. I mean it practically is an entirely different aircraft, so maybe they just didn't want to do the tooling.
Sculpting a leg is hard.
>>5569898
I don't get it. I mean, sure, a Tiger is a Tiger and seeing the 131 in Fury was awesome, but i really don't get why they bother with these retarded looking conversions.
I mean, it wasn't important for the plot that it was a Tiger at the end of Saving Private Ryan. A Pz 3, or 4 would have been equally intimidating to a infantryman.
They even could have used a captured T-34 for that scene but no, it had to be a mighty "Tiger".
>>5570101
captured T-34?
would they have seen combat on the western front?
>>5569845
Only colors I've ever used it with is Tamiya, and I think Tamiya is probably one of the best paints for doing that method because it's not a water-based actylic, but alcohol-based and thus the water will only target the hairspray.
>>5570101
to be fair, the Tiger is a considerably larger tank, and much more recognizable so I see why they made one for SPR, even if it was inaccurate.
At least it's not as bad as this travesty (CoD World at War) showing tiger II and panzer IV ausf H tanks at Stalingrad, kek. Then there's shit like the PTRS being a sniper rifle, lol.
>>5570105
2nd SS Das Reich used T-34s during the Normandy campaign in 44.
>>5570115
Oh really? So there was Sherman on T34 combat?
>>5570115
Speaking of that, I made a captured T-34 quite some time ago.
>>5570105
It actually would have made sense to use the captured russian tanks elsewhere to prevent friendly-fire incidents.
>>5570111
this photo brings back memories and pain
>>5570111
Looks like they just used their "Berlin"-assets for that level. Those damaged nazi flags look odd too.
>>5570097
it really is. as long as your satisfied tho. you may get sharper edges with plasticard for things like those straps and stuff.
you can also smooth things with cellulose thinners. look that up.
>>5565996
I bought two versions, the Nip version because it was on sale and then the RAAF/Danish version because I thought it was halfway to being a decent kit
>trying to squeeze together tiny 1:72 or 1:35 hitches
The fucking last thing these fuckers want to do is attach to eachother. How do I get these together?
Mottling didn't turn out very good, I might try to fix it a little bit, but there's not much I can do.
>>5570386
Looks fine to me.
>>5570386
i like it
>>5570386
how do you achieve such progress in one day? Do you just sit down and not get up?
>>5569666
No. It was a shitty movie
>>5570447
I'd say I've probably spend about 7-8 hours working on this the past 2-3 days total, at least airbrushing and masking and whatnot. The mottling stuff only took about 25 minutes to do.
Honestly, I probably spend a good 1-2 hours just trying to find out the right colors for the camouflage, and then mixing / test spraying Tamiya paints until I got the colors I liked.
>>5570482
>not just buying a paint set
The issue I have with mixing paint is that touch-ups are almost impossible.
>>5563596
>Also, I don't know where the anon that posted that image in the last thread is, wish he would post an update on his shipwreck WIP, looks pretty awesome.
B-Baka Anon! Making me blush like that!
I havent really made that much progress. I was for a long time in a phase where I didnt know what to do or add next, so today I just decided "fuck it" and primed the base and ship, and then added first coats of paint. Ship is painted with a mix of Tamiya flat black, hull red and red brown, next I´ll probably do the salt technique thing for adding lighter flakes of rust color, then hairspray technique for not-so-rusted parts.
Base needs some sand for the beach and foliage, I might add some smaller rocks in front of cliffs still and for then add color to the cliffside following this article http://fichtenfoo.net/blog/creating-moss-and-lichen/
Starting with the oil dot technique today. I use burnt Umber, raw Umber and a bit of beige oil paint. Paint spots on surface moistened with thinner, let dry for a few minutes...
>>5572077
...blend carefully using a flat brush, and you get a nice, subtle dirt/ discolor effect.
>making model
>all is going well
>placing on tiny handles
>one pings out of tweezers into oblivion
I guess make a new one out of stretched sprue
Finished up the decals this morning, did a wash a little while after that.
>>5572077
>>5572081
Looking good.
>>5572012
What are you planning on using for the water? How submerged is the ship going to be? Also, is that a Liberty ship?, that's kinda what it looks like. Looking good regardless.
>>5572277
Your work is awesome, it's great to see decent modelling in this thread.
>>5572277
>What are you planning on using for the water?
Got some industrial grade Epoxy that they use to coat concrete floors, I will add it in about 3-5 layers and use acrylics to color it to my liking
>How submerged is the ship going to be? Also, is that a Liberty ship?, that's kinda what it looks like. Looking good regardless.
Not completely submerged ofcourse, waterline will be about 2-4mm lower than the edges of the base because I want the beach there too.
And yes, its a heavily modified Trumpeter 1:700 Liberty Ship. Already built one in 1:350 so I wanted one that looks a little bit different. It´s my first time doing anything like this so I hope I wont fuck it up too badly.
>>5572012
I thought you were replicating the ss American star wreck for a minute.
I'm currently making a 1/35 Cromwell from Tamiya.
Anyone have any cool ideas on how I should do it up?
>>5572438
Rub some shit on it and stuff
How does one get better at weathering? I swear to god I am the most incompetent person when it comes to weathering, both aircraft and vehicles. I have no idea what I'm doing and I don't really know where to turn to improve my skills.
I mean I understand the principles and whatnot, but in terms of techniques and leaning how to weather an aircraft or vehicle appropriately is where I have trouble.
I've been reading through this digital aircraft weathering tutorial I bought on google books, but it's so fucking worthless. They show what they did to weather the airplanes, but now HOW, and any explanations offered is just a sentence or two or text, nothing in depth.
>>5572520
meant "not how" not "now how" by the way...
this is the book I purchased, it's not terrible, and some of the builds they show are beautiful, but in terms of explanation it's absolutely trash.
It's also bullshit that I can't download a .pdf of it, I only paid $12 for it, but you can only view it using an internet browser through the google play store.
JUST. Can't believe I screwed this up
Somehow, fumes from airbrushing got inside the cockpit, I think through the open wheel bay, and left this fog. Since the cockpit was cemented shut, I had to pry it open with a hobby knife, which resulted in part of it shattering.
Now it doesn't even fit correctly back on and there's a gap on the other side that I somehow have to fix. Lesson learned, never going to rush things by gluing the canopy on before airbrushing again.
>>5572626
Still looks good
>>5572639
',:(
>>5572626
I always just glue with elmers glue. Its pretty easy to remove and theres no chance of fogging
>>5572693
wasn't the glue that fogged it up though, I thought the cockpit was secure and completely air tight, but Tamiya's landing gear, where you plug in the struts, opens up into the inside of the model, and there is a small ~2mm wide gap that air can get into the cockpit on each side. Thus, when I was clear-coating, the mist / fumes somehow got up into the cockpit and coated nearly the whole thing in white cloudy stuff. Had no choice but to take off the canopy to somehow remove it and fucked it up in the process.
>>5572676
Thanks, just looked those up and they are on kickass torrents for anyone interested.
https://kat.cr/usearch/weathering%20magazine/
>payed 10 dollas for these
>came back home
>smelled them
>????
>profit? no, it turns out i just payed 10 dollars for 2 oz. of 70% vinegar acid and some detergent(printer head cleaning liquid).
>>5572715
>>5572701
That was you that asked that?! I thought it was some noob. hum.
I think its 50% having the products and 50% observation of the real thing.
most idiot proof method ive seen are florry washes. you just rub it on then rub it off. and it gathers in places and generally creates a dirty look.
for aeroplanes a lot of the weathering is just back streaking dirt because it gets blown back in flight.
and where the pilot walks on the wing to get in.
its not something that can really be explained in one post.
I think just get a cheap practice model rather than learning on expensive Tamiya models.
practise all the techniques on it.
>>5572732
yeah, it's me, I am definitely shit at weathering, which is why I said fuck it and left the bf-109 clean.
