This thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resin) models kits.
-Post photos of your builds in progress and your finished builds
-Have your builds critiqued or critique others
-Discuss tips and techniques
-Ask for advice or give advice to others
The World War II group build is going on now and ends on March 31.
Some helpful guides to get started:
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20%28Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step%29.pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com/
previous thread >>5321893
Inb4 arguments and retardation.
Repost. Any advice on building 1/350 ships? To me they seem very fragile.
>>5362084
Are those living women posing next to a tank that has ghosts?
Checked over in the other thread the other day, but figured I'd ask again here because I'm bored.
Any Star Trek fans here? Looking to grab one of the 1/350 Enterprises, but are they all pretty much direct reissues? Also, anyone know if there are plans to continue the Cadet series, or did Ships of the Line take over? Can't believe there are no Maquis, Bjoran, or Jem'hadar ships and only one Cardassian ship in 1/2500 to go with Deep Space 9.
>>5362096
I, for one, am glad that DC is doing their more obscure heroes as model kits.
>>5362100
Is that supposed to be a Stuart?
>>5362124
I know nothing about tanks, but it's a Stuart M3, according to Wikipedia. Brave and the Bold no doubt took some liberties, but I stumble on comic pages with blueprints from time to time, so I think the source material is pretty well researched.
>>5362084
Can someone please give a greentext guide on how to make pieces look weathered/damaged etc
Thanks :^)
>>5362245
The guide in the OP has all of that, together with pictures.
>>5362092
I've never built a ship, and rarely anyone in these threads building one (apart from you).
There was this one guy who thought decals were stickers and fudged the torpedo tubes...
Here are my recent projects. The Gnat needs some spare parts, but I can order them later. I need to do some remedial work to the wooden back-bed bit of the artillery tractor. (Scale modelling at night, not even once)
>>5363125
Think I'll include the little pilots. Saves me scratch-building seatbelts.
>>5363127
I loved the one-piece mouldings of the cab, lower hull and front bonnet bit.
>>5363125
How you finding the Mig dark wash?
Just ordered some for my tanks.
>>5363140
Haven't used it yet. I have nothing to use it on and no gloss varnish, apart from humbrol clear.
>>5363127
can anyone recommend a paint for the fluorescent orange? Would I be better off with an enamel?
>>5363164
yeah
Revell, yay or nay?
>>5363284
Bretty gud, what kit are you looking at?
>>5363284
Fuck them. They have evrything molded out in China instead of America.
>>5363336
Haha oh wow, americans.
>>5363284
Pretty nice. The first model kit that I built was their 1/72 F-4F Phantom II. A very nice kit but lacks intake trunks but has engine fans at the front.
>>5363336
So my Tamiya Panther D is finished. Also r8
>>5363643
Looks nice, apart from the decal film
>>5363643
Digging the ambush camouflage.
>>5363643
I will remove the number decals because they look like shit and replace them with painted numbers.
>>5363654
The cross decal on the side looks bad too.
>>5363654
>>5363662
By applying the decals correctly. Try using microsol or something.
>>5363663
>>5363663
Nice, really liking the chips and mud.
How did you make it?
>>5363666
>>5363671
What else can I use to thin Tamiya paints?
I lost my isopropyl alcohol bottle and I'm not gonna give gorillions of my schekels to the jews at the hobby shop for thinner.
>>5363827
Enamel or acrylic?
>>5363839
acrylic
>>5363827
If you use acrylic they should be water based, so give if it a try with water.
>>5363284
They're German, so bare in mind anything ww2 will be censored with all the swastikas removed
BMD-2 from Ace in 1/72 almost ready for painting. Don't ever bother to build this kit, it's shite. Just go for the S-Model BMDs, they are (almost) perfect.
Hey scale modelers, recently I bought this M41A3 RC in the 1/16 scale (heng long) its a lot of fun to drive around however, to my disappointment it didn't come with the accessory parts such as the machine gun, driver's view ports, tank commander and tools. I ordered them from someone on amazon, but the parts are all ten days late. I was looking for some input on how I should paint/customize this one. I've built a couple of 1/35 scale tanks, but my work looks like shit compared to most of what I see here..
>>5362084
I like that display, it kind of gave me feels though.
>>5364835
some weathering wouldn't go amiss.
>>5365603
Put the black series robe on the shf you dingus
>>5365647
I thought it looked a bit too toy like desu
>>5364835
>>5365603
I agree, the one pictured wasn't mine though, this one is actually mine- missing the accessory parts as I had mentioned earlier.
>Dragon AH-6J little bird is $80+ on ebay
anyone know where to find this kit for a reasonable price or is this going to be a hunt
>>5365851
wrong thread?
...this is like the second time this week
http://www.scalemodelguide.com/painting-weathering/painting-guide/painting-sequence/
Would you say this is the correct order for all the different painting and weathering tasks?
>>5365871
Yeah. I mean others may have a different way of doing things, but this is a good guide.
>>5365871
i'm putting decals before washes and filters. rest seems right to me
>>5365995
Joke's on you, I'm gonna stop being a cancerous tripfag now
>>5363284
Revell's entire lineup consists of:
Their own old stuff
Rebox of very old kits from various old companies like Monogram, Otaki, etc
Rebox of slightly newer kits from slightly newer companies like Dragon or Zvezda
and their new kits
Their new kits is comparable to Hasegawa. Their 1/72 subs are great, the 1/350 Bismarck class are fine, and so are their new-ish Typhoons and Rafales are excellent kits.
tl;dr; read reviews of any Revell product you want to buy first.
>>5363654
Ever try dry transfers like Archer's?
>>5363665
It's tamiya decals. No amount of future/microsol/solvaset will make it look good, especially if the decal is placed on a non-flat surface
I really like Tamiya's 1/48 WW2 ground vehicle lineup.
Anyone else keep all their boxes from completed kits?
>>5366109
Used to, until I realized I was collecting garbage. As soon as the kit is done the box gets thrown out.
>>5366109
when i was a kid, i used to cut out and collect those 1/700 waterline series box arts.
I wish I could find those paintings online, and print them out.
So... Does anyone have the Strike Witches plane kits? Are they actually good, accurate kits, or are they just gimicky? Overpriced compared to a non-SW branded kit?
Also, very annoyed that the sticker sheet doesn't seem to have a 501st emblem. Assuming it doesn't, does anyone have a favorite brand of clear decal sheet paper so I could print my own?
>>5366032
No not yet
>>5366464
>Are they actually good
yes
>accurate kits
accurate enough
>just gimicky?
yes
>Overpriced compared to a non-SW branded kit?
yes.
They're just re-boxes of old Hasegawa kits. They're good kits, but simplistic compared to today's standard. You could find them cheap on Ebay, but if you really want those SW decals, then you're stuck with them.
>>5363284
from my knowledge Revell Germany(the ones with the blue boarders) are great kits, I have a 1/48 bf 109 it has a great amount of detail although it can be tricky getting parts to hold together, but it peices have no gaps or pieces that don't line up.
however there kits without the blue boarder are really shitty, they're kits from like the 50's which huge gaps (like 3mm unfixable gaps).
>>5366464
literally why?
just buy a Hasegawa or Tamiya A6m
>>5362100
It's General Stuart, in a Stuart.
>>5366464
>buying waifu models
Anyone built the Hasegawa eggplanes here? I considered buying them once.
>>5367190
The eggplanes are good for a fun quick build between bigger jobs or if you want something you can make and paint in less than a day. Made the f-16 recently and had fun .
Meng have just started releasing similar caricature type models too.
>>5364835
http://www.imex-model.com/product/TAG120804/Accessory-Kit---M41-Walker-Bulldog.html?cid=90
>>5367307
>http://www.imex-model.com/product/TAG120804/Accessory-Kit---M41-Walker-Bulldog.html?cid=90
Thanks for the link, anon. I ordered some from amazon uk a while ago, still no word on it from them if I still don't hear anything next week well after the holidays I'll order from imex.
So I'm working on my tiny U-boat and I've encountered a "problem". I thinned Italeri acrylic paint with Vallejo thinner and after spraying left it to dry for 24 hours. When I took the model today it was still not fully dried. It has never happened before. How long do you guys leave paint to dry before you work on your models further? I think the problem is Vallejo's thinner because when I thinned my paint with water they dried faster.
>>5367957
I have never had problems with vallejo paints drying (really fast) so I really think its the Italeri paints being the main reason and not the thinner. Are you sure it wasnt drying retarder instead of thinner?
So I went and got the Friul tracks for the SU-100. They arrived today and I finished assembling the other side. Now im wondering if I should add one more pair of links more for more sagging, since it seems there are some spare track parts.
I´ll get better pictures when im sober, ill do the other side with one more pair just for comparison pictures with more sagging.
Who here has models like pic related (http://www(DOT)amazon(DOT)co.uk/Miniart-Scale-Gladiator-Plastic-Model/dp/B00CA5AO2M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1451520011&sr=8-3&keywords=scale+historical+models)
I only do planes, tanks etc but I'd like to go for something like this
Would you recommend it as a hobby, and if so what type of paints should I get?
>>5367957
>How long do you guys leave paint to dry before you work on your models further
10 minutes to half an hour, but I spray lacquer
>>5367980
The paint looks really good and those metal tracks fitting perfectly. Also is the paint finished or do plan to add some more different tones of paint.?
>>5368499
If you wanna build a 1/16 Miniart figure be prepared for a lot of filling, sanding and some sculpting and scratch building. The figures are cheap but they require a lot of skill to be build.
>>5367980
>tfw I have Friul Panther D tracks
>don't have a model to put them on
How are you going to paint the tracks? Paint or some kind of burnishing fluid?
>>5369503
That sounds like a good excuse to buy a spanking new Panther kit...
>>5367980
looking at real one, no sag so its correct.
extras may be for the front,
see
http://www.armchairgeneral.com/rkkaww2/galleries/SP_guns/SU_100/interiors/SU_100_06pz-over.jpg
My Trumpeter Komintern (WIP). This was my first go at single link tracks.
Please give advice/rate.
>>5369625
Tracks are not attached to the vehicle, btw.
>>5369626
>>5368646
>Also is the paint finished or do plan to add some more different tones of paint.?
Some little fixes here and there and chipping to corners and places with wear and tear. And ofcourse little details like tools and roadwheels.
>>5369503
>How are you going to paint the tracks? Paint or some kind of burnishing fluid?
Dont know yet, most likely will just paint it with earthy tones and run sandpaper over it for some metallic shine.
>>5369544
I agree with you, I just finished other side, this time with one extra link added and it looked not good at all. I´ll just go with no sagging, the weight of tracks really does make it nice, so much better than vinyl tracks.
>>5369521
I bought them because I thought I was going to buy Dragon's premium Panther D. But it got sold at my LHS. Now it's between Tamiya and Zvezda. I'll probably buy the Zvezda one because the Tamiya one is too expensive.
Finished the bottom of my 3000GT VR4 today, the kit is hood down only, so the engine is incomplete and molded into the body; it was a ton of masking
>>5369917
Looking good, and nice to see another car builder in the thread.
Just finished this Revell M3 DTM, sorry for the bad lighting, it's late and dark outside. Will get better pics when I have the chance.
Been working on this TAS 44M by hobbyboss.
Nice kit, but the photo etch and bogies proved irritating.
>>5373952
>>5373954
Can anyone recommend good brushes for painting small intricate details?
>>5373958
Buy a Sable brush, in a small size. Citadel brushes are what I use, as they are affordable and do the job.
>>5374042
I'm going to start with primer, then a coat of Model Air Russian Green 4B0. I'll paint the wheels black-grey, and the tracks separately with dark silver. I'll paint the bits in the cab. Then it'll be a gloss coat, decals and a pin wash to the whole thing, then an overall wash to the lower half.
Other than that, I'll improvise and play it by ear.
>>5373392
How's the kit. I like how those racing cars look but how's the fit and such? Also what paints do you use? Acrylics or lacquers?
This was hard. This is some of the only photo-etch I've done, so any advice? I know the SuperGlue is a mess.
>>5373392
that looks nice, I bet the decalling was intense
>>5373958
I really like my flex-i-file brushes, I only have a couple because they are pretty expensive
>>5374127
How do you clean up blobs of glue like that before painting?
Or is it okay to just prime over them?
>>5374247
>How do you clean up blobs of glue like that
No idea anon [spoiler];_;[spoiler]
I'll just use some sandpaper and maybe buy one of those fibreglass pencil-brush things you clean up PCBs with.
>>5374247
I believe there are special solutions for superglue removal.
Been doing gunpla/tabletop stuff for a bit and wanted to dip my feet into other scale models. Really interested in finding preferably a ship or a submarine, any recommendations for one that's maybe beginner/intermediate. Haven't worked with anything this small.
>>5374050
The main body is made up of 10 separate parts, including the bodyshell, the engine cowling (which is removable) and 8 pieces which line the chassis plate (4 on each side). It's a pretty tight fit once the cockpit tub is installed and required a little filing in order to bring it all together.
>>5374237
Decals weren't too bad, the biggest difficulty was that I've never built a Revell kit before this one , and I wasn't used to how thin they were. All decals were applied with a combination of Micro Set and Micro Sol.
>>5374353
Modern subs are pretty straight forward as a beginner model. It's basically a tube and a sail. Color schemes are usually all black or black/grey with anti-fouling red. I'm a plane guy so I don't have any recommendations.
Progress on the b-17f and p-38 has been slow. I finished the decals on Big Beautiful Doll. The large ones didn't come out well. I probably should have used a setting solution.
>>5375369
Looks good to me. I was thinking of picking up some microsol/set
>>5373959
>>5374042
>>5374240
Thanks guys.
>>5374247
>>5374336
If I recall... Someone once told me acetone. However I haven't bought any and tried it out myself yet.
>>5376117
Nail polish removal does the trick.
>>5376117
Don't even fucking think about it. Acetone will melt PS into a sludgy mess.
It's an absurdly powerful solvent.
>>5376147
Do you think Tamiya extra thin would work? I reckon it's mostly acetone
>>5376147
PS? Is that photo-etch or the actual plastic?
>>5376157
Polystyrene.
Photo-etch is PE.
gloss coated the U-boat
>>5376442
your water line where its grey changes to light grey is not correctly positioned. it goes up higher, usually straight through the middle of the anchor and meets the tiger stripes.
>>5376442
What did you use for the gloss coat?
>>5375995
Thanks but I'll point out some of the defects. The wing tip decals didn't really conform to the sharp edge. The insignia has some aluminum showing through since I had to cut it to get it to lay flat. I touched it up today. The big cowl decals have some wrinkles in them. Let me know if you get good results with the solutions. I've never tried them myself but it seems pretty straight forward and others get good results.
why is this thread dead? Does everyone got exams or something?
I used to swear by Tamiya kits, but the more and more cheap Airfix kits I buy (1/72 scale at least), the more and more I prefer the Airfix.
Much thicker parts, a much nicer colour to work with when painting if you don't want to prime every single part, thicker parts have less warping and so the fit is much nicer, without having to spend as much time with filler or sanding.
Am I just a pleb?
>>5381530
Any good ways to fix fuck-ups like these, where chipping has gone horribly wrong? Dont really want to repaint with airbrush again.
Is there too much chipping and scratch effects. Im not gonna make more but should i remove some of it?
Not really sure about the color effects for dented track fenders either.
>>5381805
hum hum, the fenders don't look right I terms of how they are damaged.
My impression is theyre usually damaged from the bottom edge up.
the turrent, if it bothers you, just make that bit off, that's not too difficult.
>>5381219
if you think the threads are dead, post your own OC, anon.
>>5381795
Paint with a regular brush. Real tanks don't have perfect even paint jobs. Most have spotty paint jobs through out the years.
>>5381219
I'm too lazy to take pics of what I'm currently building because of its size.
Plus I don't really want to risk moving it around too much since I've bumped it too much already while working on it.
Photoetch finally came for my kv-2.
Also picked up an airbrush for my xmas present to myself.
>>5381848
tamiya kits being better than airfix isn't an opinion. It's a quantifiable fact.
So I finished my Zvezda Tiger and now I gonna post pics
>>5382071
>>5382078
>>5382067
>fact
Please man, each brand has pros and cons. If this is shitposting, stop.
>>5382084
>>5382090
>>5382098
Also rate
>>5382103
>>5382086
>each brand has pros and cons
And Airfix just has more cons than pros compared to Tamiya.
>>5382103
do you really want us to rate?
>>5382134
Not for me at least. Airfix cost less, are readily available and accommodate for my lower skill level.
Believe it or not Tamiya kits aren't actually that amazing
>>5382098
I'd rub the pigment off of the ejector pin marks on the track links.
>>5382140
>lower skill level
Well there you go. You're right. Airfix is best for you.
>>5382140
Learn to read. Nobody ever said tamiya are amazing. What was said is that Tamiya is better than Airfix, which is true.
Hell, even ancient monogram models are better than Airfix.
>>5381851
I'm currently having exams and the I can't work on anything.
>>5381910
>H&S Infinity
So I'm brushing on vallejo's white primer on my 1/72 scale tank and the coverage of a single coat is really weak, you can still see loads of original plastic color through. It takes good 3-4 coats to completely cover it up. The little details are even more of a pain to cover.
Will it ruin my final paintjob if some sections have less primer than others?
>>5382489
Vallejo primer (and really any other water based "primer") is crap. They shouldn't be labelled primers. Yes, it will affect your final paint job.
>>5381810
>>5381857
While you wrote those, i just went and airbrushed the barrel again. I like it this way.
I finally found a head and a left arm for commander figure from my spare parts box, also, found PPS-43 and made sling for it. Still need to fix seams between commanders body and hands.
>>5382257
>even ancient monogram models are better than Airfix
Wew, lad. Don't get over the board.
>>5382503
Huh
How badly?
>Britcucks defending Airfix this hard
Why don't you stay on Britmodeler/Intscalemodeler?
Can you even buy xacto knives over there?
>>5382600
Airfix makes some pretty decent models now but their panel lines are trenches. But Airfix's models are extremely cheap and quite buildable.
>>5382592
Fair enough, can it is for the next model.
>>5382503
>Vallejo primer is crap
In other breaking news, water is wet.
>>5376442
I want a U boat too, but my backlog is too darn big.
>>5383073
Can Vallejo primer even be called a primer? It's more of a spray on condom. It doesn't stick to the surface and just lays on a rubber coat.
>>5383850
>Can Vallejo primer even be called a primer?
No?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_-v7-Wp6no
>>5384825
Not him but I discovered this guys channel a while back, love his vids.
Also noticed that he uses a larger airbrush for priming.
His choice of brush is expensive tho.
iwata RG2.
>>5384883
>RG2
is overkill for everything except maybe 1/350 ship hulls.
HP TH is all you really need.
>>5382134
I see Airfix (as well as the old 1/76 matchbox kits re-released by revell) mostly as kits for children. And they fulfill that purpose well.
What is the best primer, in your opinions?
I have been using Halfords automotive primer which works fine, but I'm running out and it'd cost less for me to order something online than to drive up to the nearest store.
I mean I assume Vallejo is a no-no...
>>5390532
I just use Krylon. Cheap, available everywhere, on works well enough.
My current build, 1/48 B-1B, with Eduard PE, Barracuda upgrade parts, and lots and lots of filling gaps and sanding.
>>5390532
Mr. Surfacer and Mr. Finishing Surfacer thinned with Mr. Leveling thinner only.
>>5390551
There's a shy Hobby Boss F-14B hiding behind onee-chan.
>>5390532
I used Vallejo, shake well, add a few drops of retarder to the empty cup before you put the primer in and add a little distilled water or vallejo thinner.
Do not add Isopropyl alcohol, it will turn the primer to mush and clog your airbrush right up.
>>5390552
Is that smelly and is the thinner toxic? At the moment the people I live with aren't too happy with me spraying chemicals indoors and I lack a spray booth. (One of them has asthma)
What are the best matches for RLM Luftwaffe colours?
I'm tempted by the Model Air sets, but do they sell them separately? I mean they give you so many colours in the sets, where I only need a few to paint my plane.
>>5390532
Does it smell? Id have to order some online and im trying to get away from smelly stuff.
>>5390876
It does smell... Like paint. If you spray it outside the smell of paint shouldn't be a problem.
>>5390870
There are some smaller sets around.
>>5390883
I have a lot of primers already that stink my room out, there are times like now when its raining 24/7 and outside isn't an option.
>>5390728
yes I wouldn't. same applies to Tamiya, and alclads primer microfiller.
Only primer that doesn't smell of anything at all, was the badger stynylrez but its more a game of luck if you can get that to work for you.
>>5382109
looks pretty dang good, be more careful with the road wheel paint.
Buy Ammo by Mig primer. It's the best and acrylic. Comes in different colors.
>>5391089
is it any different than Vallejo tho?
do you have a bottle? where is it made?
I just got one of these for Christmas.
I've never built a model tank before, aside from a small Metal Slug.
I have an Exacto knife set, Tamiya cement glue, and some sanding sticks.
My question is what else should I need/ how should I go about painting this?
>>5391702
Buy a pair of sprue cutters and some tweezers.
There's a loads of online guides on painting and weathering, check out the one in the OP.
>>5391702
Yeah, check the guides. Also, take it slowly.
>>5392070
Shoulda looked at the OP first. I'm dumb. Thanks.
Did the miniature prop making studio's of the 60's-90's ever release books on their techniques? Looking to create very high quality props/terrain but don't know where to start.
>>5392263
check out therpf.com
afaik it's the biggest prop making community over interwebz
>>5384825
Holy fuck that looks like exactly what I need. I bought an Iwata eclipse but I just can't get a consistent layer of paint over my plane/ tank models and always end up with 10+ layers in the end which doesn't look neat. Are there any good models which don't cost a fortune?
Doing a wash atm. Thread's gotten slow lately.
What kind of filter do you prefer? I think my single mask's filter is long gone and I'm looking to buy another. I just spray water and acrylic though IIRC both can cause issues long term.
Figure and SMG are painted and mostly finished. Did some washes and streaking. Now im just trying to figure out what is the next step to take.
>>5392379
Gloss and decals perhaps?
Also I'll be building this
>>5392383
I dont think i´ll be doing any decals this time. Gloss coat with a hint of orange to tie shades together might be in place.
>>5392395
One thing: Would the inside doors of the hatch be white? Or would they be the colour of the exterior?
>>5392401
I think most of the hatch doors were left same as interior, but as it comes to modelling soviet ww2 armor im pretty sure there were exceptions in this case too.
>>5392408
I mean logically, if I was a tank crewman, I'd want the hatches the same colour as the outside of the tank, so if an enemy plane came it wouldn't have something to 'zero in' on. It'd also break up the camouflage if my tank was stationary. However on your model the white of the hatch does break up the drab of the exterior. If that was my model I'd be tempted to put a simple red star marking on the side, but I'm sure no markings at all is accurate for a Soviet tank.
Really nice work though, anon.
>>5392411
I agree with your logic on camoflage, but I saw many pictures with white hatches and I thought it looks pretty neat, just like the white air identification markings on late war soviet tanks.
It actually is really weird how in some cases soviets just didnt use any unit markings at all, while on the other hand they were painted with all kinds of huge ass slogans together with unit markings.
In other news.
One of my favorite local hobbyshops is closing its doors and they´re holding sale because of that, I ordered some Tamiya paints and decided to try AK Interactive products, since they seem to have a steady following. Got me some Earth Effects and Streaking Grime enamel washes, and also Track Rust-pigment. They seem pretty good products, especially like streaking grime and track rust, while earth effects was a bit of a let down. Also, these are easily replaceable with homemade products of your own if you have thinner and enamel paints, and pastel colors to make pigment dust.
Pic related, Track Rust test
>>5392408
No, the inside of hatches were the same color as the exterior.
I airbrushed a layer of diluted Tamiya clear orange on top of the model, made the colors more warmer. Next comes mudding up the undercarriages i guess.
>>5392563
Thank you anon, now I feel stupid and upset. How will you make up for this?
Now i need to figure out how to fix this predicament.
>>5392588
Anon, leave it as it is. It looks neat and there's no point bothering about paint job accuracy when the kit is most likely underdetailed and dimensionally inaccurate.
>>5390899
>airbrushable
yes
>good
among the best
>>5392707
Sadly it's not on Ebay or Amazon for a decent price, at least not here in Britland...
>>5392712
you could check
http://www.modellbau-koenig.de/Sprache/en/Englisch.htm
Not sure about the shipping rates to GB, but when i order from GB to GER its usually not that expensive.
MBK sells all kinds of paint to good prices.
>>5392712
Emodels.co.uk?
>>5392712
How retarded are you Brits?
Just buy it straight from the manufacturer or check ths manufacturer's website for distributors.
>>5392712
https://www.emodels.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=ak+paint
>>5392712
Are you wanting the set I posted specifically?
because yes its a newer product and a bit harder to get.
>>5392714
don't know if im reading that correctly, but if you go to the shipping page, and switch to uk, it says 16 euros shipping.
Just finished assembling my 8th 1/35 tank
Haven't even painted a single one due to lack of motivation, time and paints
I don't even know when I could start painting or if I could ever paint at all
8.90 + 2.91 if you select post by letter not courier.
http://www.model-making.eu/products/LUFTWAFFE-FIGHTER-COLOURS-1941-44.html
>>5392847
Painting is what takes most of time and effort.
>all this spoon feeding
>>5392857
I'll probably do it right after I graduate this year where I can finally have a break.
>>5392712
Check out this Polish shop. The shipping is only roughly 5 euros
http://exito.sklep.pl/
>>5392800
Manufacturer sits in spain and shipping from there is fucking expensive though.
>>5392898
Mostly Tamiya models: Merkava, m41, abrams, leo2a6, challenger 1
I also have some academy: m2 bradley, tiger 1, stug 3 and pz iv
The pz iv is the only one with primer
My dad experimented with the stug but fucked up the paint which ended glossy
>>5392913
Did he brush paint it?
>>5392913
> which ended glossy
Just apply some matte varnish and the problem is solved.
>>5392913
You want it to be glossy for when you do the wash. Just slap matte varnish on after.
>>5392921
>He used colors that were kinda bright
A wash can help here.
>>5392921
You can slap on a filter to change the hue and darken it a bit.
Here's something to bump the thread
Is there a best type of sanding stick? I've just been using one I got from walmart, not sure if there's a better alternative
>>5395494
I can only assume the wal mart brand ones are not made for models.
having a pointed fine file, a bendable/sponge sanding one will do you fine.
I know this thread is mostly for vehicles, but does anyone have any experience creating 1/12th scale accessories? I really like the Little Armory stuff, especially after I started painting and making them my own. Is there any sort of resource for something like that? I recently got the 1911 set and have no idea what to do with the straps included, since they don't stick to themselves but I don't want to glue them either.
Wasn't sure how to best represent the bakelite on the magazines for the standard AK, so I left them clean. Looks okay at a distance, has some of that bakelite sheen and I wanted it to distinguish it from the wooden parts.
Finished my winter Dragon T-34, here are some pics.
>>5396824
>>5396827
>>5396831
>>5396198
Aimpoint is on backwards
>>5396198
AN/PEQ2 is on backwards. 2/5, see me after school.
>>5396198
A wash could make the bakelite look better.
>>5397576
Mud can never be overdone during rasputitsa, comrade.
>>5396198
I don't see no rails on your AK?
How are you attaching all those attachments?
>inb4 plastic cement
>>5400076
I assume the front handguard is a modern polymer one with rails, but its hard to see.
the sights should have a rail though, or it should be russian ones with that distinct looking side mount.
>>5400121
Little Armory AKM kit has no rails anywhere out of the box.
If you're going to add optional accessories from other kits, you need to add the rails too. This isn't some gunpla is freedum shit where you slap random bits on and call it done.
>>5400301
>being that autistic
>>5400303
>do you know where you are
>>5400303
>be in /toy/, one of the most autistic boards
>complain about austism
Hey guys. My dad has pic related, Revell 7613, but lost track of the instructions in his shop. The site doesn't have the instructions and neither do the other places I checked. This is his first model and it looks exactly like his truck, so he's pretty set on following the manual.
Does anyone know where I can find the instructions online, or, as a long shot, actually have the instructions?
(Or failing that, would you say Revell 7225 looks close enough for him to follow as a guide?)
>>5401132
http://www.revell.com/support/instructions.html
You might find something there.
>>5401151
Already checked there, but thanks anyway.
>>5401132
ask there,
http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/
if anyone can scan, someone will have one.
>>5396198
You might want to move that foregrip forward just a little bit too, because there's not way anyone could remove that magazine.
whats the most detailed kit for 1/72 scale Pz.IV ausf. G?