Hey /toy/
Just before Christmas I purchased Super Dungeon Explore Forgotten King, fully intending to pain the miniatures.
Now I have the paints but the miniatures came pre-glued in to their bases which is a fuck nightmare for some of the characters that have capes and such.
I have tried heating the bases in boiling water to try and loosen the glue, but some of the models have very dainty ankles.
I have tried freezing the models to cause the glue to crack and fail, also no worky.
Any other advice from mini pros here?
[pictured is the model with tiny ankles]
plastic right?
get an extremely sharp/new razor blade and go to work
just make sure you are protected.
safety first!
razors are sharp as all hell and if the can cut through plastic
they will swim through flesh
>>5361566
also forgot to mention: use a blow dryer to soften up the plastic a bit
>>5361571
Thats some advice! I picked up some xacto blades extra for cleaning up mold lines. Time to get to work.
>>5361899
how did it go?
Just leave them attached and paint the bases last. Cover the bases with a dark color like black, or maybe use that powder stuff to make it look like sand, dirt, or grass.
>>5360069
This is a question for /tg/.
This might be the job for a very thin jeweler's saw.
>>5360069
/tg/, here to make a service call!
I am a miniatures painter by trade (such as it is), I also work on a load of SDE minis and have painted for way longer than I care to admit.
Don't try to get the figure apart or take it off the base. It's a losing concept in general. As difficult as it may seem you WILL be forced to work with the sculpting inevitably. Some people try to paint a simple figure in like 6 pieces and then reglue it and then repair the paint. Just don't.
What you are going to do is like the anon said: paint as you can and then clean up the base at the end. That's sop for all miniatures unless you are building a diorama maybe.
Remember that anything you really cannot reach, you almost definitely can't really see either. Even studio-painted 10/10 box art/promo pic minis obey this rule of thumb. Inside that Alchemist's cloak for instance, you really just want to get a nice deep green inside there and that's it. If pressed I have enough dexterity to freehand a pattern in there but fucking why would you? Just get some nice solid coverage. It will help, not hurt, the result.
Figure painting is like 10% anal-retentive aspie perfectionism, 45% choosing the right order of operations (what do work on first) and 45% correcting slipups as you do along.
Case in point, paint her "inside out"...do the hardest to reach stuff first, it doesn't matter if you fuck up the base or anything else because you're not going to have committed to anything else yet.
If you are afraid you'll have a nice finished fig then screw up and get the paint for the base onto the nice little boots or cloak you've done, relax....you probably will. You will just scrub it off quickly with a damp brush or your finger or at worst, touch it up.
If you wish to test this advice like a fool, you get modelling clippers or a serrated X-acto blade and cleanly clip them free, like you would to get model pieces off a sprue (dear lord not freeze or melt them).
<-WIP
>>5367356
how much would you charge to repaint a liquid snake play arts kai figure?
he looks like a fucking zombie right now
>>5367356
Thanks for the tips anon.
>>5367356
Not OP but I also received super dungeon explore for the holidays. I didn't get the forgotten king, but I believe the first.
All of my hero's came in multiple pieces and I can't wait to start painting them.
Is coming pre assembled only in that expansion?
>>5367526
After the first run of the original box everything for SDE is preassembled.
Glad to help guys.
For painting something like that Snake figure I would probably charge like $150 assuming you didn't want the entire thing redone, just the flesh and some other touchups.
