Those of you just joining us, please read this guide. Please read it before asking questions as there is a chance it has already been answered there.
For those unfamiliar, "Plamo" is a shortened form of "plastic model." If it's made of plastic, someone can probably help you here.
>"If you're new, you're gonna fuck up. Don't worry! If you're experienced, don't make the new people worry!"
***READ THE GUIDE***
IRC Channel
>Server
Rizon
>Channel
#gunpla
The guide:
https://docs.google.com/document/pub?id=1Tr8UyF2Xg5Ojqw0sxcO7oIG7IIsJPes3lMO5pHZKu5o
And a handy guide to other types of plamo:
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20(Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step).pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com
Some lineart: http://seesaawiki.jp/nuriesozai/lite/d/MenuBar1
http://gundma.imgur.com/
Paint Matcher: http://scalemodeldb.com/paint
Old thread: >>5351623
Group Build
So, to reiterate, for this group build
Primary: white
Secondary: purple or pink (or both, fuck it)
Trim: gold
Due date: February 1st.
Email: [email protected]
Don't forget about the lineart in the OP.
posted this a couple days ago but no replies
Do I need to strip and repaint the one on the left? Its a little darker than the right one.
Still gotta mask them and do the white and pink areas
>>5358729
I'd probably just darken the lighter part.
Noob here, can I get any stuff I'd need for hand-painting in a Wal-mart store? Like Krylon primer for example. Michaels & the like are a really far drive.
>>5358789
Don't mess with Krylon primer, too thick for gunpla. I do buy my brushes at Wal-Mart though, I seem to lose brushes like nothing. Just order everything else online.
>>5358789
Brushes at stores are kinda overpriced imo, $10 for a fine tip where im at. Be cheaper to order em online. As for the krylon thats for big projects, itll clean out any details on gunpla
>>5358799
>>5358808
Whose primer would you suggest? Most of the stuff I've read only seems to mention primer in the context of airbrushing, though brands are suggested, I'm worried that they may be specific to that tool & I wanna hand-brush.
Funny, several sites suggested Krylon... Even though the guide doesn't, I figured it must be a decent option, but I'd trust you guys the most. I'll avoid it.
>>5358823
Even with handpainting primer is helpful.
I'd get these two: http://www.thewarstore.com/product103457.html
http://www.thewarstore.com/product55757.html
The Graze kit just makes me want the RE100 Leo even more.
Please gib Bandai.
>>5358834
Thanks. First listing is a nice assortment of but I've got most of it covered already. As for the primer, is that just a brand suggestion or do you really think I should go for that dark green? After all, the guide suggests white/grey for the most part (which this site seems to have).
>>5358837
With how they're treating the Graze so far, I want a RE100 Jegan more. Imagine all the variants, even if most of them end up being P-Bandai.
>>5358840
Eh just an example. But yeah, The Army Painter is nice stuff.
>>5358843
Word, I figured. Lucky for me the white one is on sale at the moment! Thanks again, dude.
Additional thought- what if I want to paint a small part of a piece rather than the whole thing, like, I wish to keep the regular plastic's color but paint the edge. Would I not prime that part or could/should I spray a little into a bottle cap to dip into?
>>5358845
Rape the piece with masking tape, but yeah, skip priming IMO.
>>5358849
Alright then. You've been very helpful, much obliged. & it's nice to see my pic/kit as the OP image! Glad someone thought it was neat. I appreciate that you guys are pretty receptive to rookies.
>>5358823
Priming helps, especially with hand painting. You'll find the sleek plastic will tend to drip paint especially on curved surfaces. Krylon paint tends to go on heavy since the spray cans are designed for larger projects. You'd have to mist on several layers which is more time consuming than a mist layer then a medium layer.
There self leveling primers that can be hand painted but personally never tried them. By far the best spray can primer I've used is Tamiya Primer (Fine). Self leveling, goes on thin and very smooth finish that still gives enough bite for paint. Even accidentally sprayed it on heavy as shit on some pieces and didn't muddle details. Downside is it can be expensive since the cans are small and run up to double a can of Krylon.
>>5358799
>lose brushes
Invest in a nice set of red sable or kolinsky sable.
>>5358888
Quads for Kolinsky Sable master race.
So, is BTF thinking what I'm thinking?
eg selling a 1/24 Strike part by part?
1/24 chest + arms when?
>>5358899
Isn't it just a standard bust?
>>5358899
>safety nubs
>>5358912
Safety nubs are now built in design aspects of v-fins, it makes them more "dynamic"
>>5358906
The head/bust is a separate kit to the cockpit.
>>>5358431
Really? thanks a bunch dude
>>5358918
Most art doesn't depict safety nubs tho
>>5358963
I was making a joke
>>5358969
My bad. Hey, Merry Christmas
After months of very slow progress (thanks college) the fucker is finally done, or close enough, if anyone remembers here's the pencil lead shavings GM Ground Type
A lot of firsts, first MG, first fully top coated kit, first attempt at detail work past simple panel lining. Pretty happy with the result considering I'm still really at snapfag stage and the simple resources I used, plenty of mistakes were made but just as much was learned, here's hoping I can speed up the process or else I'll never get through my backlog.
Still have a the rest of the guns untouched but I'm just glad the main MS is done.
>>5358837
Jegan, leo and GM II RE100's make my boner move.
>>5359005
Lovely work. Makes me want to pick up a GM myself.
What's a decently priced grey primer? I have some rustoleum grey but I feel like it's too thick for gunpla.
Also is it true you can't thin Tamiya acrylics with anything but Tamiya thinner?
>>5359005
that weathering is fucking great man, same with the paint. What'd you use to do that? You have an airbrush right?
Any Ausbros here?
I've been building GunPla for years now, but I've always bought them from my local anime/gunpla shop, but all of their prices are quite high (especially for Aus standards).
I know that I'm going to be paying out the ass for anything because of shipping, but what are some of the more affordable retailers out there that ship down here? I've noticed that Amazon has good free shipping deals on larger kits and their base prices are better than local.
>>5359047
I only ever get stuff from 1999, plamoya and gundamcentral.
Exchange rates are retarded that if you dont plan on getting something huge or a big order, you're better off going local, unless you dont mind waiting for three weeks to get your stuff.
What state/city?
>>5359042
>paint
>airbrush
I guess I was pretty vague on what my process was, but somehow I'm having a hard time believing I actually fooled someone into thinking I airbrushed. If so maybe its the pictures.
Either way, no airbrush or paint whatsoever, other than top coat. I welded the very few seams, then panel lined with markers, applied stickers and decals. Top coated it so the weathering would stick, used crushed up and shaved pencil lead and my thumb to weather, then top coated again to seal it in. Heck for the little grey squares on the lower leg I used the stickers, since its a flat surface it'll stick and I get an even, perfectly fit color instead of messing with and fucking up paint. It also really helps that the kit is virtually color accurate OOB with the grey squares being the only missing color.
It was basically an experiment to see how far I could get in making the kit look good without major painting, so I feel pretty accomplished.
>>5359047
I buy almost exclusively from HLJ, shipping isn't that expensive, buying a kit at my local store is about the same as ordering a kit with EMS shipping.
Spiffy silver panel lines for anon, I like them, now I've got a reason to fix up my Dark Hound from my noob days. I'm sure they'd look even better with better quality paints but I make do with what I've got.
Not the dude who said he'd do it last thread, I'll come clean and say when you first asked about it I went straight to doing it, then just never put in the effort to take a pic and post, sorry for the wait
If you are airbrushing 1/144 scale gunpla, what's the best method?
A) pre shade then colour
B) colour then airbrush lighter colour leaving recesses dark
Which would be easiest and best looking for such a small scale?
>>5358307 #
It's not Revell, can we get this misconception out the way for good?
It's dragon models that raised a stink because of their new star wars line.
>>5359049
Brisbane, QLD.
I think I'd rather wait the extra time than pay the extra. Bulk buying as opposed to driving into the city and back each time.
>>5359056
Unfortunately, the higher the price of the kit, the more it's marked up. I just did a quick search of some sites for comparison.
Example: PG 1/60 Banshee Norn (in AUD w/o shipping)
HLJ: $200 (normally $250)
1999: $210 (normally $250)
Local store: $330
Even on something small and basic like the MG Gyan
HLJ: $33
1999: $35
Local: $66
I get that they need to make a profit and I love supporting the smaller stores, but sometimes it feels like it would be better to just get them online.
>>5359053
You're very self-doubting. It's a very nice piece, and although I'm no expert either I definitely thought it had been airbrushed. I've only hand-painted or used spray cans myself, though.
That accomplishment you feel is well-deserved, I'd say.
>>5359077
Which store in Brisbane do you go to?
>>5359079
Zombster in Toowong.
I love the store and the people in it are amazing, they have a great range too. I don't want to seem like I'm bashing their store, it's just that their gunpla prices seem a bit high.
>>5359078
Thanks, I'm glad to hear comments like that after the work I put into making it look good
>>5359084
Try Hobbyrama at Stafford, their range has been getting a fair bit bigger and they sell paints (including alclad) for pretty cheap. Zombster has a much bigger range but I've found some older kits at hobbyrama before.
>>5359095
Not him, but I like Hobbyrama, but because it's on the complete other side of the river, the drive + toll means it's almost always cheaper for me to order shit online. Sometimes I really want something ASAP though, so I use them.
It's funny how ordering something from another state or another country could end up being cheaper than buying something on the other side of your own town though.
Just bought one of the Bandai Boba Fett 1/12 kits.
Looks hype as fuck and can't wait to weather him. Anyone build any of the Bandai 1/12 kits yet?
>>5359061
What did you use for panel lining? Enamel silver paint?
>>5359077
Yeesh, QLD is pretty expensive. Got an MG Gyan for around 55 and the PG Banshee is averaging 300 here in Metro Melbourne.
Thing with SAL is once it reaches a certain size/weight, you'd be better off going EMS, and you'd save a fair bit in shipping than if you order single items separately and SAL them one by one.
>>5358912
That's just how the Strike is
>>5359047
S.A builder here, shintokyo in adelaide is my go to for hg kits, with $20AUD being the norm. I rarely get MG kits as they cost $57-100
>>5359061
Damn, it looks great, thanks homie
>>5359199
Some art of Strike has it, some don't. Then Santa, now this; I don't even know what to trust anymore
Sometimes I feel that the only color I can handpaint nicely is enamel gun metal.
>that dust caught in the paint
At least it's simple to redo.
>>5359074
How far down are you on Revell's cock?
>>5359039
Sorry for the late reply. Tamiya acrillics can be thinned using isopropanol as well however I've had my best results with the proprietary thinner. If you can pick up the big 250ml bottle it will last months.
Merry Christmas to myself, just got this sucker in the mail. Only ever have done a couple Bandai kits. Only now do I realize this thing needs extensive use of plastic cement (virtually none of the parts in the head unit stick together from friction alone) and painting is not an option; it's a requirement for this kit (no orange parts, they all come in white).
Plastic is also much cheaper than bandai kits, I almost broke a ball joint off a peg trying to yank it out of a socket (visible stress marks now surround the peg holding the ball).
I'm going to have to be way more careful with these parts. But is there a way to fix the stress mark to strengthen the peg again? I'm afraid that the next time I try anything with it, the peg will snap right off. Could i just shoot a heat gun at it and slowly heat it up and push down on it a bit?
>>5359354
u thin acrylics with water
>>5359353
>Statement Revell and Bandai
We are massively confronted with the accusation that Revell invited Disney as licensor of the Star Wars license to prohibit Bandai selling Star Wars licensed products outside of Japan. This claim is plain wrong because we haven’t and won’t at no time take influence to the business matters of other manufacturers!
The truth is rather that each licensee, whether Revell or Bandai, is only be entitled to sell its licensed products under its own license contract and the countries agreed upon. These license contracts are concluded solely between the licensor Disney and the various licensees. We as Revell GmbH therefore aren’t allowed to sell our Star Wars products in Japan. On the other hand it is not possible for Bandai to sell its Star Wars products in the US and Europe, if these regions are not part of the contract.
Apart from that, we are convinced that a license like Star Wars lives from the wide variety of products and thus inspires young and old. Therefore we see the model kits of the company Bandai not as competition but as a supplement on the market for Star Wars model kits.
From Revell's Facebook. If anyone clamped down on this it was Disney themselves. If anyone pressured them it was probably dragon models who had new upcoming stuff.
>>5359391
RIDF pls go
>>5359379
Tamiya acrylics are alcohol based. You can also thin them with lacquer. Water, while it does thin them, results in a weaker bond and doesn't level as nicely as the paint isn't formulated for it.
>>5359067
Bump
>kshatriya ordered
>psycho gundam ordered
>invasion of jaburo ordered
2016 get hype
>>5359395
Keep on hating then faggot. IDGAF if you misplace your hate or not, I just thought you'd like some knowledge instead of Disney dick riding, but you seem just like the right princess for the job. Keep swallowing.
>>5359396
Vallejo acryllics, on the other hand, coagulate on contact with alcohol, so by god don't ever thin them with it.
Both legs and waist wired now, still running test patterns, but with a button to switch between colours.
https://youtu.be/hDwAFq4D5H4
Alright new and plebeian scum here, I need help, /toy/. I jumped the gun with purchasing this https://www.hlj.com/product/KBYKP-382/Sci except from a different site. Only afterwards did someone show me this Hobby Link Japan place, and only then did I see these details:
>To properly complete a level 3 kit, you should have at least a basic set of modeling supplies, including plastic nippers, a hobby knife, files and/or sandpaper, plastic cement, instant (cyanoacrylate) cement (for resin, soft-vinyl or metal parts), painting supplies including brushes, paint, thinner and masking tape, tweezers and possibly decal softener for applying decals to difficult areas.
>This item requries the use of cement (glue) to complete.
For injection-plastic kits, use the weld-type clear cement specifically designed for use on styrene plastic. For some smaller parts, you may wish to use instant type (cyanoacrylate) glue.
For resin, white metal, soft vinyl and photo-etched materials, the use of instant type cement is strongly recommended.
>Painting Required - This model kit or accessory must be painted in order to achieve a realistic appearance.
And I cannot cancel the order from AmiAmi so it looks like I'm going into this thing headfirst. The only things I've ever gotten like this were some High-Grade gunplas, and I never did any of the painting stuff on those, was a lot younger and I was fine with the basic coloring. I'm assuming the assembly, at least, will be kind of like those, but I'm not sure.
Thing is, I don't know the costs of any of this stuff, and I have no skill with painting as far as I know, especially given my shaky hands. There's a hobby store near me, but I wanna know which of these things listed I actually need, what to avoid, and how to be cost-effective. And lastly, has anyone gotten this, or the red Oni-hime model before her? Since someone who has might know more specifics.
I'm willing to give this my best shot and learn things if necessary.
>>5359039
You can thin Tamiya Acrylics with Iso Alcohol or Hobby grade lacquer thinner. It's a slightly weird paint that somewhat changes depending on the type of thinner you use. Alcohol makes it behave more like an acrylic while lacquer gives it a much faster curing time and a harder finish.
From personal experience Iso Alcohol can screw with how it bites to where it will not adhere. Masking tape rips it right out. If you're starting out and can afford it I highly recommend getting the Tamiya brand thinner as it'll work as advertised and you won't have to mess with custom batches of thinner just to make paint work. I recommend this if you're a beginner and with any paint really.
>>5359587
I can't wait to see how that looks all done and with the armor on it.
It's gonna be sick.
>>5359606
It's a newer Koto kit which means it'll be a snap friendly kit but given experience you may need glue for a piece here and there, maybe.
My advice? Build it first. Decent pair of cutters, an x acto knife and either files or sandpaper/sanding sticks to remove nubs. Nub removal is important and an important skill for the novice to the experta; we all have to eliminate the evidence of nubs.
If there are pieces that must be glued on, then buy some super glue. Sticky two/poster tac can be used to temporarily keep a piece in place of you have some.
Koto likes to sometimes pre paint pieces but most times not. You may not need to paint or may only need to paint a color here and there. Build it first then compare it to the artwork and buy what you need.
There may be water slide decals so you may need a setter.
Hlj gives that warning for every kit while in reality Bandai and Koto have made strides in making their kits as accurate out of the box as possible given the price or making finishing as easy as possible. Build it first then buy what you need. Buying shit you think you'll need will likely end up with you having stuff you don't need and lacking something you Will need.
>find out my local hobby store has closed
Fucking crisis.
>>5359634
Thanks a ton for the advice! I'll worry about the extra tools later, then.
As for cutters, I have something like this due to having an assembly line job. Are these the sort you were thinking of? Also, I can definitely sand the nubs, I'm sure my local hardware store would have stuff for that.
Lastly, I figured the basic colors would at least be there, like gunplas, but on things like this are the eyes usually painted? I can see myself having a hard time there, possibly the lips too.
>>5359682
From the couple of kits I've done for Koto, the eye are either painted on or they come water slide decals. In this case they come painted on, lucky you.
http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10343505n2/40/2/1
I use Hobby Search to look at runners before Dalong does a review. Speaking of here's a look at the Red Oni-hime
http://dalong.net/review/kotobukiya/fso6/fso6_p.htm
As for cutters, I recommend some hobby ones because of how thick those are and runners most of the time don't have the clearance of space to get a clean cut. If you are on a budget and have a Harbor Freight nearby, they sell $3 Flush Cutters that are a nice intro tool. Recommend upgrading to something like Xuron 410s or similar if you're planning to build several kits but for a single kit, those Harbor freight flush cutters are good enough.
Has anyone here built a Bandai Resistance X-Wing?
How does it look with panel lining + Decals and Topcoat?
I'm asking because I would like to purchase and put one of these together. However, as you can see in this pic, the color separation for the model is pretty terrible, and without decals/color it looks pretty ass. I can handpaint some bits and pieces, but I doubt I'd be able to get a nice overall look, or a matching blue to work if I attempted to hand paint it all.
As such, if I do acquire one of these it would probably be mostly "colored" with the available decals.
Does anyone know if Barnes and Noble has gunpla on clearance from Christmas?
>>5359693
Oh cool, so there's three different eye parts. Explains why she was looking different ways in the pics.
I don't have a Harbor Freight, just a Hobby Lobby nearby. I'll see if I can find those flush cutters there or somewhere else. Again, thanks a lot.
>>5359100
Holy hell, I'm really tempted to get one of these and make a Vile custom now.
>>5359714
Mine didn't, you should check your local one though.
>>5359712
how the fuck does half a turbine rotate?
>>5359714
Not when I went today, but they were only just setting up the clearance stuff. I'm going to check back in a week.
>>5359730
>space
>turbines
>>5359734
>desert
>space
Any other Star Trek fans here? Are there any other Cadet series packs planned, or did Ships of the Line take over for 1/2500 scale? I can't believe there's no Jem'hadar ship at that scale to go with the Deep Space Nine model.
Also, any real differences between the different 1/350 Enterprises, or are they all pretty much direct re-issues?
>>5359785
I wish I was good enough for Western models at this point. I've been a snap faggot for the past few years and I've had a massive 1/350 Enterprise NX-01 in my closet for years that I got as a gift before I started building models.
I have a buddy that just bought an airbrush, but the whole part fitting thing is terrifying to me since I've never tried it. I bought a smaller Enterprise C model to practice on first, but I've been sticking to Gundams and haven't bitten the bullet yet.
>>5359814
>buying western models ever.
>buying western ANYTHING ever.
lol its like you want to pay more for low quality shit.
>>5359816
Please, Shitposter-sama. I'd love for you to point me to all the eastern companies that make Star Trek stuff,
>>5359823
http://www.bandai.co.jp/catalog/item/4543112161925000.html
>>5359047
I usually by direct from HLJ if the shipping isn't through the roof or there's a site called MindFenix where I've been buying my kits from lately which has good prices and free shipping through out Aus located in syd
What is your "accept no substitute" product?
The one (or more) you would never be able to keep going without if you ran out or it was lost.
Totally pic related for me, I use it for tamiya paints too and it's just magic sauce
Gelgoog Revive when?
>>5359845
>Not in scale with anything
>Costs as much as the 1/350 enterprise without shipping because of a shitty lighting gimmick
>NCC-1701 registration number despite baving NCC-1701A nacelles
Perfect, thanks, that's a big help!
Should I add a little pink to the light grey? I may just be imagining it but I'm pretty sure I see a slight hue.
>>5359853
>We will never get a Revive Gelgoog
>"Here, take all the Unicorn model kits you want, choke down on that horn!"
>>5359848
Goes with out saying
I can't go back to twisting parts off runners
>>5359988
I'm going with my nippers as well.
>>5359924
It looks slightly purple, yeah. I think you should make the gray completely gray or all the parts will blend together
>>5360002
Yeah, thats what I was planning on doing. Current choice of grey colour looks like the two front pieces (which have been subsequently stripped since I fucked it up)
>>5359848
>accept no substitute
more like
>i put this sh*t on everything
amirite?
Mr.Leveling thinner is good but can just as easily be substituted by Gaia Brushmaster.
>>5359988
Man I remember just starting and using an X-acto knife instead of nippers. Dark days.
Is this a good set to get for handpainting? I've been using shit brand and it's going reasonably well. Can I use the airbrush thinner to the same effect as the regular one? http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009162PWU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1451171705&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=vallejo+paint+set&dpPl=1&dpID=51GP9kv8H%2BL&ref=plSrch
>>5360077
>http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009162PWU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1451171705&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=vallejo+paint+set&dpPl=1&dpID=51GP9kv8H%2BL&ref=plSrch
You might want to start with colors you actually need. "Sets" are rarely worth it.
Who makes the best Macross kits: Bandai, Wave or Hasegawa?
Also how much work does each company's kits require to look good?
>>5360171
Depends, do you want it to transform or not?
The recent bandai one is probably "the best" all around, although it can be a bit fragile at parts and the transformation causes the paint to scrape. I have one of the Hasegawa ones but it doesn't transform and the articulation is weak. It's got nice detail and a huge sheet of waterslides though.
>>5360183
Transformation is a non priority.
Do the Hasegawa kits need painting or do they look fine snapped and decaled up?
>>5360190
They require paint and glue. And seam welding.
Finally got mine. Hope to finish it before 31st of december
>>5360351
It looks really fucking retarded
>>5359680
Had the same shit happen to me. Only store in our area and they sold their supply to a different store. They had like 3 kits
Finally got home after Delta changed the flight times on me without telling the system actually letting me know. Got back to find that based Ottawanon delivered on the goods.
I still feel like shit since my gifts didn't get to you on time, if worst comes to worst shoot GG an email and tell him to give me your email or something so I can get you some sort of online gift card.
>>5360386
Tfw my local store always runs out of zabanya. tfw no MG zabanya and harute
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bandai-Gundam-Model-Kit-Lot-22-Mobile-Suit-Wing-8th-Ms-Team-1-144-High-Grade-/121845817058?hash=item1c5e939ee2:g:dGoAAOSwnipWWfUv
>tfw you bet on something and it barely has anything you want
s-someone please bet over me
>>5360480
What's your Max bid? Weird he's not using the shipping calculator.
>>5360504
its just the latest bid, like 10.49. mostly i just realized that my gift card that I got can't cover the payment and I don't have a whole lot of money right now.
>>5360508
Did he give you a shipping quote? If its not total rape (shouldn't be since he's not shipping the boxes) then I'll put in a bid for it.
>>5360543
you know, one thing i never stopped to realize with all that is where the hell am i going to put 22 kits
>>5360504
>Weird he's not using the shipping calculator.
Flat rate box? For something that size weight, that's probably the best bet.
>>5360002
>>5360013
I kept fucking up the light grey so I said fuck it and decided to do airframe aluminum I like the look of it and it'll help give the Zeta that jet feeling that the Zeta Plus series is meant to give. Not sure how I'm going to adjust the pink to counter this. Tamiya pink is quite a bright hot pink so I was going to mix it with red or something to darken it a bit.
I wonder what mixing the pink with a bit of the aluminium would turn out like, might try that tomorrow. Adding the masked parts to the wings will be quite an interesting experiment now.
>>5360580
Looks good so far. I'm no expert on paint, but i think mixing the pink with a bit of grey would do better than the red.
Thinking about getting my first model. Im confused on one thing though. i was at barnes and noble and they had some on display so i looked at their description said the pieces come painted. Do you guys paint them just for fun or do they not come painted?
>>5360623
Colored plastic and often a few stickers, people paint for a better finish, custom colors, painting missing colors and such. Painting isn't necessary but it is a pretty big part of the hobby.
2015, the year of obscure HGs.
>>5360648
Isnt the nero an rd fig?
>package was either supposed to arrive or let me make a claim
>check amazon
>"its still out, but there may have been an error"
>wont let me file anything unless i get it tomorrow or not
>no mail on sunday
Like wtf they havent replied to any emails. Is there a chance i got jimped??
>>5360386
Wooo! Merry Christmas! Don't worry anon I'm patient. Just knowing something is coming in the mail is a good feel.
Hey guys,
I'm in bit of a bind at the moment. Would anyone know how to get rid of adhesive residue (glue/tape) off matte finished plastic?
Been considering using rubbing alcohol via a qtip and letting it evaporite so it doesn't damage the paint, if possible. Might try Goo-gone though I hear it leaves oil behind.
Any assistance would be really appreciated, had a really shitty Christmas and I'd rather not ruin the only gift I received.
Thanks.
Anyone here built the Hi-Nu Vrabe along with Lev-A and Lev-D?
I'm wondering how well it supports itself with both weapon packs.
What should I build first, the HG Zeta or the MG 1.0 Char Zaku II?
>>5360771
Zeta than the zaku
>>5360648
>Jegan
>Obscure at all
I'll give you the Nero though.
>>5360648
>F91 Jegan
I am going to Japan very soon, and my goal is to try get all the P-Bandai Jegans currently released. Alongside ECOAS Jegan too.
Debating on purchasing the Prototype Stark Jegan however.
>>5360799
P-Bandai F91 Jegan.
>>5360803
I knew as much, but it's still a Jegan which in general is too much of a fan favorite to be obscure, unless it's an MSV variant.
>building the revive guncannon
>putting shoulder pieces together
>finger slips on one piece
>piece flips off
>hear it smack the vent
o-okay, i didnt want to finish it anyway
>>5360648
yer zumwalt is gonna fall off that ledge nigga
>>5360718
your best bet is to use the same adhesive tape or whatever it was and hope that the residue will unstick from the plastic and transfer back to the tape
other than that you're looking at repainting as both alcohol and especially goo-gone will very likely strip the paint
>>5360826
If its a lacquer topcoat 90% isopropanol shouldn't strip it. You could also try water if it isn't an acrylic
Maybe be super careful with an xacto?
>>5360855
>If its a lacquer topcoat 90% isopropanol shouldn't strip it.
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
nigger you don't know how many times I wished that was true
So amazon finally got back to me.
They refunded me on it, said i can either keep it if it shows up or buy something and they'll waive it
>>5360826
I find odorless turpentine to be good for that kind of stuff, it's like weak enamel thinner but without as many nasty effects, I had some matte topcoat get into my colony kit and fog the clear plastic but that stuff on a q-tip got it super clear without fogging the glass like many thinners would have
it's fine on clears because I use it in oil washes frequently
>get HG Gunpla for Christmas
>want to get more into it and buy MG
>price tags are on par with Nendos and Figmas
o-ok
>>5360957
MG is meh
>>5360957
MGs are twice the size of nendos or figma.
>>5360957
MG is "getting more into it" like "getting into cooking" means making 2 boxes of mac and cheese instead of only 1
>>5360963
why would anyone make more than one
one box of kd is enough for a person
>>5360965
that's the point, building an MG is basically more of the same thing, it's not really getting more into the hobby
>>5360967
that's too much kd man don't do it trust me on this
>>5360957
Nigger MGs are the best worth for your money of those, they're so much better in every aspect than HGs and they're not even harder to make.
HGs are decent snacks, MGs are exquisite gourmet meals, you eat both with your mouth but one is clearly the better experience
>>5360968
it's already begun
>>5360972
lil bit of butter, milk, melt in some extra cheese and slice up chicken hot dogs man, baby, you got a stew going
>>5360969
MG has shit kit selection and is a shit scale, the ideal world would have only 1/144 scale and RE/60 & PG, and an expanded Mega Size range of 1/48
>>5360977
>RE/60
>More Megas
>>5360957
Nendos and Figmas are fucking overpriced.
Nendos far more so than figmas.
>>5360977
You've got it backwards. 1/144 is the shit scale and there should be more 1/100 whether MG or not.
>>5360977
Choke on polycaps, HGs are last resort compromise for when there's no MG available, otherwise MG or 1/100 is the way to go. 1/144 is too small for the kind of detail and painting potential that 1/100 allows without going to gigantic sizes, RGs and their problems just prove how limited 1/144 is. Anything past 1/100 is too much plastic and money for most to bother with, that includes bandai. Your "ideal world" is a world with even shittier kit selection for anyone who wants something bigger than an ant and even more designs never seeing the light outside of 1/144.
>>5360996
>Choke on polycaps
Anyone ever had a part fling into their mouths before?
I remembering trimming a nub and saw the exact moment a small piece came flying right into my eye.
>>5360648
Is the Strike E painted ?
What paint did you use for the blue of the torso ?
>>5360996
HGs are awesome to kitbash though.
>>5358837
>RE100 Kshiatriya
Muh dick
Could anyone tell me how the transforming element of the MG Unicorn works? Does it require reassembly or is it relatively simple to transfer between the two versions?
Hey folks, on my current build i tried placing gundam marker (the regular paint pen type) over Mr.Color surfacer, which is a lacquer, but when i go to cleanup the marker with isopropyl alcohol, it rubs off the surfacer as well, is there an alternative i can use to cleanup the marker without destroying the coat below it? thx lads
Okay guys i searching this GK of Ideon since one week now and i can't find any information.
any of you have an idea or a sellers ?
the kit was exposed at the wonder fest.
Guys I got my younger nephew who is creepy good with putting together sprüe kits by bandi, some SD gundam models for cheap on Amazon, and was wanting to know which Ikea shelf is preferable for him to display them in his room.
I'm going to get my oldest nephew the same kits and shelf since he lives out of state now, for his room and for his Pokémon stuff I want to get him.
Also what are food cheap put it together Pokémon kits, should I stuck to those bandai kits?
Thanks for any and all advice and merry Christmas to all of you and a happy new year with wishes of you getting your grails for cheap.
>>5361067
It's doable without disassembly, the only parts that absolutely NEED to be removed are the sides of the head, but only to turn around and reattach as part of the transformation.
Parts can fall off while transforming it, though.
>>5361107
>who is creepy
rude
>>5361075
Gundam Marker is oil based right? I usually smudge it of with my fingers although that will leave grease on your kit, perhaps then remove that with small amounts of dishwater on a q-tip? If it hasn't dried yet a dry q-tip could help.
![IMG_5904[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/WwKQy2D.jpg "IMG_5904[1].jpg")
Pic of the current led driver board
The FTDI board will be removed eventually and power supplied direct to the FCC header of the arduino.
>>5361129
>something something technobabble something
>>5361129
So if you put that in the Gundam, it will make it better? It looks like trash...
>>5361149
Not richigo but he'd probably put it in the stand/base, its a fucking breadboard and a couple chips what do you expect it to look like
>>5361153
bingo, It'll go in the PG unicorn base, hidden from view. Doesn't have to look pretty, just has to work.
>>5361153
>>5361157
>>5361172
I'll admit, that made me laugh.
>>5361149
it will be extremely gorgeous, for us to see.
Anyone got tips on airbrushing white gunpla? I've seen a great tutorial which uses a base of 1:1 black and grey Vallejo primer, then highlighted with grey. I'm wondering however if that would be too dark, especially on something like a Unicorn which is almost entirely white. The other option would be to prime grey then highlight with white. Thoughts?
>buy koto msg lance
>it's designed so that you can spin the pointy bit
>it can't spin on it's own because it has no motor obviously, you have to forcefully twist it
Why? What's even the point?
Found this image online, pretty useful. Someone may want to add it to the guide.
>>5361361
>implying i care about star wars
>>5361232
Add the motor yourself and report back
Is there a reason people use thinned Enamels over thinned Acrylic inks and the like for panel washes? Wondering whether it is worth the hassle of picking some enamels up (never used them before) but I have a bunch of Citadel washes.
>>5361536
>Is there a reason
Yes, there is a reason.
>>5361540
And what is that reason, if you don't mind? Also would satin varnish be fine to seal the model before panel washing or is gloss imperative?
>>5359366
cement the ball joint a little
>>5359848
Well, I can't keep going without any kits to build, can I?
>>5361125
I meant scary good.
>>5360996
>1/144 is too small for the kind of detail and painting potential
The fuck are you talking about, go and paint some Warhammer models or something and come and complain 1/444 is too small.
Do you guys paint your action bases?
>>13672386
>>13672882
So amazon has rose for 20$ and gundamplanet has devil for 20$. Rising is more rapey pricing. Best of luck.
>>5361659
mfw
>>5361536
From personal experience, acrylics can be a pain in the dick to get off if it dries any. Outside of the Tamiya line, there's nothing that acts like a solvent to quickly "melt" and quickly remove acrylics.
Enamel differ in any sort of enamel thinner, turpentine, etc will quickly act and you can wipe away the excess l. Well except fully cured enamel, shit is a pain to wipe off.
>>5361699
Thanks. Just found out about those panel line washes Tamiya do so I will probably be picking up some of them and some lighter fluid.
Do you guys think that the MG Thunderbolt line and the OVA will get us more HG's, and most importantly, the Dom?
>>5361224
You're gonna have a fun fucking time. The first method sounds for pre shadowing, while the seconf one is standard. Get the lightest shade of grey you can to reduce the amount of white coats you have to lay on.
Pain in the ass part is it takes a lot of coats to get a nice and even white layer. Finding the right paint to give you the white finish you like is like a glass slipper. Not to mention thinning white paint requires a different ratio than other paints in the same line. Mr Hobby GX White with self leveling thinner is my Cinderella. Before finding it I relied on on Tamiya spray cans.
Extra tip: laying down a silver layer after the primer helps reduce the amount of coats of white you'll need.
>>5361717
>Not the guntank or gouf
And maybe. I'm really looking forward to the mg FA gundam thunderbolt version. Especially if it includes a cast off with an rx-78 inside.
>>5361744
No, Chewbacca is the new sith lord.
Still kicking around on /m/ but I might as well post here too
Got a really nice kit for christmas and I don't want to just snap it and do panel lining on it, I'd like to make the colors look a little nicer. I've only painted model cars before, so I'm probably going to test painting a cheaper kit first.
Reading the guide for topcoating, will the colors of the base plastic look better by just topcoating them (no paint), or should I really think about practicing on the cheaper kit with a primer->paint->topcoat
Getting done with the Gourai...mostly just waiting on the paint I need to do the weapons with. Also need to decide what to do for the panties, since frankly I don't like the way the waterslides look for it. Gonna start top coating next weekend.
>>5361817
Yeah, just topcoating will make the basic plastic look better. Also for testing your painting, plastic spoons.
>>5361817
Topcoated paint looks better than topcoated plastic.
>>5361826
MAKE HER GO COMMANDO
>kit with pre-done gold metal parts
>some of the others parts have TINNNNY little details/borders done in this same goldmetal but it's not there
>worried about matching paint and getting all upset
>gold metal gundam marker I bought two years ago still has oomph in it
>paint on the sprue of gold
>essentially exact match
thank babby jesus
Speaking of FAGs, I'm planning out my Architect over here. How compatible are Bandai Gundam kits with Frame Arms? Just a little joint swapping, or is it a pretty extensive overhaul needed to get legs and arms to fit with each other?
Currently trying to decide between using Tieren ground parts and some modeling support good weapons, or the Frame Arms Kagutsuchi-Otsu sniper with her.
>>5361862
You will need to mod limbs to fit the fag, no straight part swapping and it looking good. Mods are pretty simple though. And certain accessories can be stuck right on because they use 3mm holes and pegs.
Has anyone decanted Tamiya ultra fine surfacer/primer? Anything I should know before I do it?
What's the beast size drill bit for making 3mm holes that will snuggly fit polycaps? I have a 3mm drill bit but it drills holes a little too big.
>>5361723
I would adore an HG of that thing but I'd prolly buy an MG
>>5361877
Alright, thanks. Still a few months to decide. I like the Otsu, but I'm not sure if its rifle is TOO big. I'm thinking Tieren with the MSG rifle and shield to make sort of an armored sniper
Well guys, today is the big day I work on the main armour of the zeta plus, first I have to get the right pink/purple. I'm going to mix Tamiya pink and purple to try and get the right colour, I guess I'll post progress later if it succeeds.
So I'm thinking about what color scheme to go for with the group build. I think I'm going to use the barbatos as its cheap and has a figure that will lend itself to the colors. It's going to be a purple/pink secondary mix vs purple frame pink. Of course the posing will be JJBA Stand style bc I'm a giant weeb.
>>5361826
>>5362028
The other scheme is this which I have a feeling may turn out better but not 100%. The frame of the barbatos is so exposed it would be a shame not to take advantage of it
>>5362029
oh man
>>5361918
>Anything I should know before I do it
You should know that it is pointless.
Tamiya sells liquid primer, no decanting required.
>>5362126
Well I already have a can, and it's a strangely moist and warm winter. Also I can't find that stuff at my local hobbylobby.
>>5362126
Will this thin with Mr Color Leveling thinner?
>>5362048
>brown
>panties
An unfortunate choice of color in more ways than one. Don't do it to her, mang
Not the other barbatos anon but it reminded me that I had been thinking of barbatos as well. I want to hit it with glitter gloss somewhere too.
>>5358712
So I followed the guide, and got myself the xacto knife set, and the 00 gundam, but since it was the same amount due to shipping costs, I got the HG Barbatos for 2$ more than the original cost.
Does the HG Barbatos require rubber cement or is it snap together like the 00 gundam.
>>5362186
All gunplas do not need cement to build. You can used it to make seamlines disappear, but it isn't required to snap it together.
>>5362193
Thank you for the info, great to know actually.
>>5362141
>Decanting has its time and place and this isn't one. Unless you enjoy having unnecessary problems.
Why?
>>5362205
Fuck off.
>>5362186
Barbatos was my first Gunpla, had fun and managed to build it in one long sitting a few days ago.
All I used was an xacto knife and some patience
Enjoyed the experience more than expected, so I'm ordering a few more kits
Also picking up a flush cutter to speed up getting the parts off the runners and some really fine sandpaper to help clean up nubs where the knife is a bit awkward to get at
>>5362233
Fuck off.
>>5362197
Yeah, that's the nice hting about model kits. They can be simple snap together things that you finish in an hour or two like lego sets, or you can get really into it and spend weeks seam fusing, sanding, painting, planning, cleaning, kitbashing, and other gerunds.
Who should I build first Gundam X Maoh or Zedas?
I also just finished Hi-Nu Vrabe and I could assemble his little backpack bird instead.
>>5362207
SPATS
There any good hands i can get to replace the awful all gundam project hands?
>>5362295
GOD I HATE THOSE HANDS, remind me of shitty transformers. worst hands. but yes, bandai has option parts builders? kits or w/e with extra hands, and recently released dark grey versions for those who can't paint. though i honestly feel that anything they've made in that terrible off-white color hasn't been able to hold any paint on them but w/e.
the bandai builders parts hands should have different sizes for each scale due to smaller 1/144 and larger size ms in the same scale. not sure if they have them for 1/100 but i'm sure they will.
>>5361826
Your thighs are backwards.
>>5362312
Might explain why they kept popping out.
>>5362295
The jigen whatever kaku hands maybe? Open, fist and holding hands in 3 different sizes. (These are the largest one)
>>5362213
If you've never done this before you will make a mess and primer of all things is a bitch to clean up.
>>5362254
>not going commando
>>5362338
I've decanted paints before, I just want to know how well it sprays from the AB. Some acrylic primers like games workshop corax white didn't spray well at all after decanting and would rub off like dust despite getting a wet coat.
I don't want to spend a minimum of $30 to get some primer from some obscure online shop with stupidly expensive shipping.
Well, after finally getting around to the RG astray ever since I bought it upon release, I've realized that gunpla has finally left me by. I can't be bothered to build anymore.
It's been a fun ride, plamo general.
>>5362342
Can't seem to find any koto girls that doesn't cost as much as a large MG.
>>5362346
RIP anon, godspeed.
>>5362342
Damn, is that a custom, or is someone selling those, like with those other nude bodies I've seen someone making?
>>5362349
Like it has been said before, none of the FAG have had a second production run and they are in high demand, so if you missed out on the preorder or didn't immediately grab one on release you are stuck paying high mark up.
That and they already cost as much as a smaller MG to start.
>>5362358
>not knowing shinkis
Get out.
