Customs General
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You are currently reading a thread in /toy/ - Toys
What's on the workbench, /toy/?
Post pics of projects finished or in- progress, share advice, ask for advice, and have fun!
Dumping some pic-tutorials.
Part 1 of 2
2 of 2
We need a new cover.
>all these japanese tips and tricks american-piggus can never replicate
shame
>>5309193
It'd help if those were translated.
I have no idea what material is used for the molds in the rubber clothes tutorial.
>>5310987
>can't fucking google let alone guess
you really suck you know that?
>>5310988
I can't even guess.
My country is fucking shit at hardware, so I have to get a precise brand and product and then guess a decent generic substitute.
>>5311362
theres all sorts of methods
Has anyone considered making joints out of metal wire?
Pardon my newfaggotry, but is it generally a good idea to paint over something that's been prepainted or does it usually end up a mess?
>>5311387
If you bend it too many times it'll break.
This is a WIP, but for now it's Omegamus Prime, "Annihilation is the right of all sentient beings."
gonna make a custom raider figure. gonna be my first 1/6 figure in a long time.
soon as I get this new place set up and the first check after I pay my debts
gonna get a 1/6 Suzuki katana for him I saw the other day.
here's the shopping list I'm working with
1/2
question about hands if any of y'all know
I'm planning on craft one, but how often are hands from other non wrist peg figures interchangeable?
like what are the odds I buy a hand set and they not fit?
also does anyone have any better reccomendations for male body's? the craft one figures look pretty cool, realistic and not overkilled in muscle. but I can't find anything on their flexibility.
QUESTION
My little sister is getting really into minecraft, and even drew her own minecraft character, so I made a skin of it in the game for her to play as and she loves it.
Would it be possible to print out the skin I made for her onto decal paper and then stick it onto pic related so I can give her a figure of her own minecraft character for Christmas?
I would imagine I'd have to take the figure apart, clean off the current paint with acetone and then apply the decals and reassemble, but I've never done anything like that before. Would I have to paint some kind of finish over the decals so they can be played with? I just wanted to see if you guys thought that was possible.
What do you think?
>>5312310
Don't use acetone. It'll melt the plastic. Use acetone-free nail polish remover with cotton balls to dab off the paint. After it's been stripped of the paint wash the parts off in warm water and and-soap,then dry off every piece before applying the decals.
>>5313107
thankyou
>>5309095
where can i get a cheap dremel for a couple of uses to drill in a ball socket joint thingamajiggy into plastic
i want to use heads of other figures for gi joe/cod megabloks
>>5313299
If it is just for plastic, you can use battery powered types like http://amzn.com/B003TU0XEQ
You will need to get diamond grinding bits of assorted shapes and a set of compatible collet sizes e.g. http://amzn.com/B0000302Z6
Absolutely not recommended if you intend to use the dremel for metal work in the future.
>>5313319
By the way, if it's just for drilling, do it manually by hand using a pin vise. Electronic means are overkill and hard to control
>>5313325
I can't read Moonspeak, but here's what the pics and some googling suggest:
The molds are made from Oyumaru or Instant Mold reusable mold-making gels. Basically you heat it with some boiling water or a microwave for just a bit and it gets soft enough to make a mold for whatever you are copying. When it cools it solidifies but won't adhere to the original and is just a flexible enough to pop out the original. The tutorials seem to use latex paint for painting on the negative impressions on the mold and then piecing the mold halves together while the latex paint is still liquid to dry as one piece.
I've seen Hobby Lobby carry a red reusable mold gel in a plastic container similar to Oyumaru, I'd just need the latex paint or maybe just thinned silicone sealant to try it out.
To the anon who got the wanhao di3, have you tried 3D printing joints? How did they turn out?
>>5314070
No, I'm still slowly tuning the machine, but I have some generic joints that I could try tomorrow and we'll see just how sub optimal they come out. How large were you thinking? I'm relatively sure it won't do figma size joints, at least not in its current state.
>>5314169
Can it do 6mm revoltech style joints? Or just any two part hinge joints, one with a male peg and the other with a female hole.
I'm still waiting for mine to get shipped. What mods have you done? From what I've gathered Z-axis alignment, Z-axis braces, motor dampers, and better bearings on the X-carriage are the essentials, possibly sawing part of the X-axis mounts to keep the belt from rubbing against it. Are there any others ones you know of?
>>5314169
Definitely interested in seeing this too. I've got a few different sizes of proprietary figma-like joints both en-route and in production from Shapeays. Hoping my batches work out in terms of clearances and friction.
>>5314178
Your list sounds about right to me at 4am. So far I've done z braces, and the thing to keep the band from rubbing on the motor, which it didn't really do on mine so maybe the newer models have this fixed? I still removed a bit of metal to help clearance and stay on the safe side. About to add a glass plate because I ordered before places started including them. Added adjustable feet for stability. Will eventually get the igus bearings and an all metal hot end but those aren't priority, and I want to put an enclosure around it to do ABS without problems but that's not priority either since most of what I'm doing will be molded and cast in another material so PLA is fine for that
I think the 6mm joints will be too small even when this thing is running optimum, but I could be wrong, some guy in the facebook group printed an amazing millennium falcon that is incredibly detailed for its like 50mm square size and I think the radar dish is about the size of the pegs on a revo joint
>>5314206
DESU I have a second printer that is a much nicer machine, under normal circumstances I would just prototype joints on that and make a mold. I will try to get something out on the Wanhao i3 just to see if I can, but if push comes to shove I might not be trying my damnedest because I have other options available to me.
>>5314213
Ugh I always forget T B H gets filtered into DESU
>>5314213
Figured I should track down a pic of include it. Once again this isn't mine, this was done by a guy on the Wanhao i3 facebook group. I cropped the pic to get his wife's face out, she probably doesn't want to be on /toy/.
Looks like the radar dish didn't print, my mistake, the the detail is astounding for an FDM machine. I believe he said he did this at a low speed and at 50 micron layers, so it probably took a while.
>>5314220
>>5314213
Do you think a 3 or 4mm peg is too small?
>>5314222
I do, yes, but I could be wrong. I will play around with printing some calibration strips I use for my other printer, we'll see how small I can make a peg.
This!
I was planning to make a custom bearded He-man, but couldn't get my hands on a decent priced Aquaman figure for the head. Then I found this online and now I can't resist anymore. I have to make this custom! I only have a Zodac body, so I'll customize that. Also that one has a hairy torso, which I think would go well with this fuzzy look. We'll see...
>>5309192
who is the girl in the bottom row?
>>5314583
That's the Etrian Oddysey IV Imperial Girl kit by Koyobukiya, apparently repainted in...Iron Man colors. This is what it looks like by default.
![SRfAl59[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/z1c7U58.jpg "SRfAl59[1].jpg")
>>5314583
>>5314593
lost legacy of the void kerrigan, kept the blue as it fits the raynor's raiders colors and the teal is a throwback to sc1/bw where hero units had teal accents.
base figure is heroes of the storm nova... which is just a blonde kerrigan, since blizzard is lazy as hell and kerrigan and nova are just recolors of each other in portraits
>>5314662
post not lost ack
>>5313319
>http://amzn.com/B003TU0XEQ
preferable if there was the actual piece for drill a balljoint included
sorry im so new at this
http://amzn.com/B0000302Z6
is it compatible?
whats a pin vise?
so i dont need a dremel to drill a ball socket? i can do it manually? that would be the cheaper option
sorry if i sounded like a retard just now
Duplicator i3 bro here, spent the day dealing with stupid sd card problems. I don't use the micro sd card that came with the printer as I hear they eventually get memory problems, well the stupid sandisk card I use had memory problems too. WHOOPS
>>5314206
Have you previously had joints made from shapeways?
>>5315630
Yeah, a few attempts at trying to make a figma-like 4mm wrist joint. Size constraints made it look oblong when assembled due to the tiniest piece that holds the female and male halves together needing extra mass to be acceptable. Pic related is the first prototype (failed) that lacked the tiny center piece so I held the pieces together with a snipped-out sprew corner. Barring the hackneyed look and barely being held in place, it at least proved otherwise decent in the other dimensions like the pegs. The second batch that were oblong needed modding and ultimately a by dab of glue to keep the tiny pin to hold the male and female halves tight, but otherwise they were surprisingly functional. I have a batch of 5mm ball joints on the edeonly ny way in the next month or so (opted for longer wait to save on the price of he entire order of parts) that will be in both WSF and white acrylic. Their slightly larger size should make assembly simpler by only requiring dusting out the tiny holes for the holding pin and the male-female connection. After a certain size and thickness WSF is pretty sturdy for what I'be done with it so far.
>>5315884
Pic related is WSF? It looks very messy even if it is nylon. I guess 3D printing joints just isn't there yet. I hope the acrylic is better, but acrylic seems like it would be weak for a friction joint.
Alright kids, what would be the best base for Mac Tonight? Preferably in the 1/12 scale.
The body is pretty simple, completely black jeans, boots, and jacket, though he was originally depicted wearing a black suit.
The head can easily be made using clay, as can the white hands.
I feel that the trickiest part will actually be the sunglasses, and making them look like decent actual sunglasses.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_hI0qMtdfng
>>5316032
Sure it's there, it's just not available on Shapeways. Their machines are mostly older models, for one, and they are tuned to turn parts out fast. WSF especially so. There are places you could get amazing joints made but it wouldn't be as inexpensive as shapeways.
Ideally what you want to do is get your joint prototyped well and pop a mold off of it, then cast up hundreds of joints for pennies on the dollar.
>>5316085
>Ideally what you want to do is get your joint prototyped well and pop a mold off of it, then cast up hundreds of joints for pennies on the dollar.
Who exactly would provide a service like this without requiring an expensive bulk purchase? Unless you mean resin casting, in which case I'm not sure resin is reasonable strong enough for long-term joints.
>>5316089
Yeah I'm saying do it yourself. Resin castings would be fine unless you want your kids to play with this stuff. Of course it depends on the resin. In the past I've used smooth on's TASK for joints without problem.
>>5316089
If you're really inventive you could probably build your own injection molding machine, there are actually instructions online. For years I've wanted to, but I'm not sure it's worth the effort for me personally.
>>5316108
Yes I pressure cast most things. To be honest I don't remember which task but if you've got a local reseller of smooth on products you could go check them out they usually have samples of every product. A pressure chamber isn't very expensive to set up, you can do it for about $150. If you don't want to get a vacuum chamber for degassing silicone molds just use smooth on's OOMOO series. It's kind of crappy compared to mold star but you don't have to degas it at least, just pressure cast the mold itself. Never pressure cast a mold that wasn't pressure treated when it was made, you'll fuck it up hard and your casts will come out with air bubbles.
>>5316105
Yeah, just buying a benchtop injection mold is about 4k, then you've got to make resin or aluminum molds on top of that. The Gingery home-made injection mold starts by assuming you've got a bench-press handy, so that's right out...
>>5315113
I'm pretty sure the round burr bit I use is the Dremel 191 (B0006N72XE). You can also find grinding burr bits (they'll usually specify "diamond") but I prefer a cutting bit because it's faster.
A pin vise is a handheld shaft taht you turn instead of a motor. You fit a bit into a collet, then hand turn it. They're common among modellers because a motor tool will burn through thin polystyrene sheets in nothing flat.
If you're not using polystyrene sheets or delicate work, I'd just as soon recommend getting a cheap Dremel knockoff and save some carpel-tunnel.
>>5316118
http://makezine.com/projects/make-41-tinkering-toys/diy-injection-molding/
Here's one that uses a guide available on amazon for a few bucks (12 usd maybe?) the project itself is relatively inexpensive for what it is. I think if someone wanted to start making their own quality hobby joints in the garage there would be a market for it. Yes there's still the matter of getting tooling done on the injection molds.
>>5316126
Yes I realize I'm insane for suggesting things like this, but if you're going to make a lot of fucking joints it will eventually pay for itself.
>>5316108
Then make a CAD file of what you want and have them CNC machined in POM. Much cheaper than injection molding, as it's not more mass production, it's much more effective than 3D printing will be for probably 20+ years, and obviously much easier than making your own injection moulds.
CNC machines themselves are also very expensive, but hiring people isn't nearly as expensive.
>>5316152
I don't know where you get your CNC machining done but everything I can find is more expensive than a hand full of joints are worth.
>>5316105
DIY vac casting is easier and you can get pretty damn good results with it.
>>5316673
Well we're talking about injection molding a high impact thermoplastic.
>>5316112
Have you used TASK 21? It says it's used to replicate ABS qualities. Seems like it would be ideal for joints, or the flexible and wear resistant TASK 16
>>5316872
It's possible, I'm just really bad at remembering the numbers. I wish Smooth On used a different system, like Mountain Dew Code Red or whatever. Task Code Red? That I'd remember. IIRC there is a Task or similar product that's much too flexible, and that might be Task 16. I used to work at a shop that had all these things on hand, I don't have anything other than some smooth cast at the moment so I couldn't say for sure on any of this sorry.
>>5316879
Googled Task 16 yes I am correct, it will be way too flexible for your needs. It's the sort of thing you'd want to make plastic capes and clothing out of. Did some stunt knives out of it one time and they were very flaccid, lol.
>>5316881
Is TASK 16 completely soft or is it semi-rigid like polyethylene? I could see a semi-rigid resin being useful for making poly-cap like parts to construct joints.
Hey guys can anyone help me here i need to make a mold but i dont have any of those smooth-on stuff and they dont sell those at my country but i do have a silicone tube so will it work or do you have any other sugestions (cheap sugesstions)?
>>5316890
Task 16 might be too soft for polycap joints, like I said I made some stunt knives with it that had blades thicker than a polycap joint sprue that comes in like a gundam model or whatever and the blades just fell over, like Dali's Persistence of Memory melting clocks, just awful for anything under a certain thickness.
>>5316930
It should work, not as well but it should work. You mean silicone caulking right? It will take forever to cure for one and smell nasty forever but it works in a pinch. Try molding some test pieces and see if it works out for you.
What country are you in? I can try to find a supplier for silicone.
>>5316963
Yes i ment that kind of silicone and it does stink smells like viniger thanks
And im in israel and couldnt find casting silicone not at hardware stores and not even at craft stores but if youll find anything lemme know thanks
>>5316963
>Task 16 might be too soft for polycap joints, like I said I made some stunt knives with it that had blades thicker than a polycap joint sprue that comes in like a gundam model or whatever and the blades just fell over, like Dali's Persistence of Memory melting clocks, just awful for anything under a certain thickness.
Wow okay. That's very soft. I guess 21 sounds like the ideal stuff.
>>5316978
Well the first thing I found is that Smooth On has a single location in Israel, if nothing perhaps having a place in your country means shipping won't be terrible?
Israel
Cermat, Ltd.
Haruv Street
P.O. Box 287
Industrial Zone Or Akiva, 30652 Israel
Tel: +972-4-8571141
Fax: +972-4-8571139
Contact:
Itamar Israeli mobile: +972-52-2531864+972-52-2531864
Ben Israeli mobile: +972-52-3213114+972-52-3213114
>>5316990
Well shiping is a bit of a piccle i have almost no money and i dont have a job cause im stil in highschool and my parants wont buy me this kind of things so yeah...
But thanks for finding that place even that its in the north and iam in the most southren city so itll take four h for me to drive there or for a shipment
>>5317010
You need to be 18 or more to post here kiddo.
>>5309101
For anyone wondering, they're mixing silicone caulking with paint thinner.
I want to make some custom Combiner Wars Terrorcons, but I don't know what parts to use. Any pointers? I know that the "frame" of each limb bot will be a CW deluxe (probably the helicopter due to the lack of bulk), but other than that, I'm lost.
>>5316085
>Sure it's there, it's just not available on Shapeways. Their machines are mostly older models, for one, and they are tuned to turn parts out fast.
I was wondering about this. Are there any affordable SLS 3D printing companies that offer polystyrene material?
>>5317211
No. Not with good quality anyway. That's why kickstarters like Play With This Too's not-pretenders only ever prototyped a single figure. It probably cost them about 2 grand. Just a set of joints could run you $400. I know, I've priced this stuff. SLS machines aren't really capable of doing really strong materials either.
i want to try those big revoltech joint packs that people are selling in ebay (those 25, 50 ones)
are they any good?
i mainly want to order a pack of those so i can replace the shitty joints of this bootleg stormtrooper, i have already replaced some of them, but i don't have of the ones that are used for the shoulders, and the left elbow is using a spare figma joint. and in the case that those are good, i want to stockpile some of these joints for other ideas
i asked this in the revo general, but no one answered, i guess i asked at the wrong time since pics of new upcoming revoltechs were posted and people started focusing on those.
thanks in advance
>>5316646
I do it myself, I just know people have stuff machined and it's often the best case scenario money wise for smaller projects which you want to be sturdy. I mean, if you really want a two part resin set of joints, go ahead, but I wouldn't ever settle for something so obscenely weak. Or even most of the joints you can purchase, considering some of those are PS/ABS (kotobukiya ones) and the hobby base ones are a hybrid PP which is why they're so eh. POM is one of the best toy joint materials so I see no point in making something any less tough.
>>5317227
If you were to hypothetically offer milling services what would you be charging per unit (a set of 6mm hinge joints)?
>>5317227
I'm not sure "obscenely" is the word you wanted to use. Yes machining them would be stronger, but how rough are we really playing with our customs?
>>5317337
In my experience, most two part resins are about on par with generic ABS, in not weaker. And to put that into perspective, even Lego's really nice, custom synthesized ABS isn't as tough as a generic POM. So, yeah, obscene is the word I want to use.
The fact of the matter is that joints which aren't the proper material wear faster and don't work as well in general, fragility aside.
If you want to do it, that's fine, this is just how I am. I tend not to even accept joints made of ABS unless it's gunpla or lego.
>>5317331
Are you asking for a generic price range for people who offer genuine milling services, or asking if I'd be willing to make the stuff myself? Because if the former, no clue, I've never asked anyone. But if the latter, I tend not to do large quantity stuff, just fixes. It's pretty hard when you're doing a lot of hand carving/sanding, even with a dremel.
I don't mind making whole sets for single figures, like if someone worked in joint with me to articulate an amiibo, but I'd be doing different joints for a lot of them instead of the same one over and over again. To elaborate on why that might be a bad thing -- making them over and over again mostly by hand means they'll all be slightly inconsistent.
Why not buy revo 6mm hinge joints? Those are POM and sometimes PA (pretty sure it's around 95% of the time POM). If it's about a specific color, I really just work in raw (milky white) and black, so I wouldn't be able to help there either... though I have grey copolymer POM, it's really soft and probably really easy to rip though so I haven't used it on anything yet.
>>5317035
I am 18 i did preeschool twice cause i didnt know hebrew
>>5316963
>>5316978
>silicone caulk
I tried casting with silicone caulk a few months back using this guide. http://matrixarmory.blogspot.sg/2012/01/mold-making-cheap-and-easy.html
They used it for large props but the general idea applies to smaller objects too. The trick is to apply the caulk in thin layers, letting it cure after 1~2 hours, then reapply the next layer.
Results are generally good for this 1-piece mold. It captured all the details on the mold-side but there's issues with air-bubbles in both the mold and the cast. Would like to experiment again when I find the time.
>>5317703
Thanks tho i did it difrently but because of the way i did it it taks a huge amont of time to cur on the sides but maybe ill try it again like this
>>5317720
If you do try it, I recommend massaging the first layer intensely to reduce the air bubbles. I ended up around 4 small air bubbles resulting in 4 small nubs I have to shave off every time I made the cast. Still trying to think of some way around that.
Also..your hands will smell of vinegar for the rest of the day..
>>5317614
>Are you asking for a generic price range for people who offer genuine milling services, or asking if I'd be willing to make the stuff myself?
Just trying to get a gauge of what it would cost to hire a small business or private person. The revo hinge joints are just an example. I'm interesting in more complicated joints for mechs.
>>5317226
i see, thanks anon. i was worried that those could have been as shitty as the joints that came with the bootleg trooper. i'm gonna get a lot of 70s pieces.
>>5317781
I don't know sorry. I'd just go hop around machining forums and see what you get.
Minor tweak. Replaced axe and blunderbuss with a scythe and pistol as well as a shield.
>>5317911
Well thanks. Milling POM sounds like it could be very good idea for holding up some heavy weaponry.
Hey i need help on a custom im making
I am making a deadpool custom and i am gonna make the kattanas from scrach and i am not very good at molding plus i am out of clay used the last of it for the head so.... any ideas?
>>5318364
you're supposed to already know how to do most of the work. we only critique eachother here. Sorry.
>>5318364
He who shall not be named makes blades out of bobby pins cut down and sanded to shape, it works well.
>>5318364
>...plus i am out of clay
Would it be difficult for you to get more clay?
Anyway, I would recommend making the blade out of something that has some flexibility. For example, use a strip of plastic from a model kit runner or cut off a strip from an old giftcard. Then sculpt a handle over one end and give the other end a point.
>>5311387
>>5311650
you can but if you dont want them breaking you need a center wire and make wire round like in pic
but you are probable better with revoltech joints or make some metal ones with screws or even some stop-motion style joints
>https://castlegardener.wordpress.com/2008/06/29/beginners-guide-to-ball-and-socket-armatures/
also does anyone have the original link from the page of the dude that made jason and the argonauts stop-motions he had the best tutorials i have seen
>>5316068
Maybe Figuarts Camera Man
>>5320000
I was thinking the same thing but then I saw that Sailor Moon guy's clothing. Hard choice.
So I have a Figma Ika Musume I'm converting into her swimsuit version (her dress came off and refused to go back on after surgery to fix a ridiculously loose torso joint). I've more or less finished the sculpting, and now I just need to apply paint. The only bits tha need painting are her thighs (I added some putty to her backside to make it a bit more presentable, as she hadn't been given normal Figma-grade ass tech, I assume because she wears a long dress) and her body. It SHOULD be easy to do (mixing up a matching skintone for her thighs notwithstanding) but there is still some soft plastic on her torso, namely the upper half of her dress (which once the blue trim is painted over should resemble her swimsuit) and her "panties"/swimsuit lower half. Will the soft plastic parts be OK with paint on them? I'm going to be using GW Skull White spray paint for the torso for the record.
>>5316068
Figma Roger Smith? Might be a bit expensive for a donor body though, seeing as he's an exclusive and all.
>>5323800
If I get Roger Smith it won't be for custom use, the proportions are weird on him anyway. Good idea though. I wish I could find a figure with a leather jacket or something along those lines.
>>5316068
Pretty please post it if you end up making this.
>>5312291
what site?
>>5324633
How butthurt can someone be that a complete stranger doesn't approve of his hobby?
Where could I buy a trench coat to put on a 3.5 inch figurine?
>>5325085
This guy possibly.
I'm not sure if he got a reissue for the Winter Soldier line, though.
>>5325115
>>5325085
It actually has a Reissue in the Avengers AoU 3.75 two packs
>>5324677
will do, probably early next year if anything, got to recover from holiday purchases, but I am drawing up plans.
Duplicator i3 guy here not much success printing figma style joints, not going to bother taking a picture. My machine still has a little bit of reverb that's causing the pegs to come out wobbly.
So I have a racnoss empress that I have been trying to get rid of for awhile. After unsuccessfully trying to sell it I'm thinking about using it to make a custom monster-girl figure.
Wondering if anyone could flick some ideas my way to get the ball rolling. Need to find some inspiration for this.
The base spider body should work just fine, but I'm wondering what I should use for the human torso. Anyone have recommendations for nude/semi-nude female figures that might make a good candidate?
>>5326462
I should add the anon that was working on a spidergirl himself is what gave me the idea in the first place.
>>5326462
Queen's Blade Revoltechs perhaps? They're modular and more or less totally castoffable.
>>5326494
Not a bad Idea, looking at them I can see a few that would work. I take it the armor bits removable? I was thinking maybe going wit sculpting more organic carapace look rather than a "man made" armor.
That or a maid outfit as the idea a spidergirl that climbs to dust high places is entertaining.
>>5326531
Yes, depending on the figure. They can all be stripped down to be functionally nude but some of the armour/clothing bits are sculpted on, usually on the limbs.
Melona can be made totally nude, aside from her shoes (which won't be a problem for you anyway).
cat broke my neca Friday the 13th Jason lives figure.
gonna build a little coffin and a scale set up of the scene where he gets revived.
maybe make a Tommy Jarvis figure
but what to do with the accessories?
gonna get the zica 8 inch female figure and make a horror babe like in pic related.
>>5326531
Yes. There are a few parts that are molded on but should be a good base body. Try not to use Cattleya as she has been done to death.
IF you want to go the maid route try figma's Arashiyama Hotori. Not sure if the skirt would be use able but the upper body should work.
>>5326560
Use them for a "Actual Cannibal Shia LaBeouf" figure.
>>5326560
update.
both my neca Jason figures are broken.
my friends kid and or his cat are prime suspects.
no bite marks on figure.
Jason's nose is scuffed from obvious dropping.
mask is missing.
it's only been 2 days.
fuck this sucks so hard y'all.
I guess I'm going to harvest them for accessories and make some post apacolyptic shit maybe?
the good Jason's leg socket on his pelvis is broken inside.
obvious a kid picked it up. and jerked the leg wrong and it snapped in his hand.
idk. I'm sad and I'm bummed out now.
fuck I hate children.
and I hate cats that act wild.
>>5309101
Can someone translate the moonspeak?
>>5317010
>ost no money and i don
>>jew not having money... I guess it is money to spare.
>>5326635
Wait so what exactly happened? Got pics of the damage? Maybe we could think of something.
>>5317957
looks like it walked straight out of bloodborne
>>5326462
>>5326494
>>5326598
Thinking that Airi figure should work well. Seems like both the nude and clothed body will work well. Not sure if there is a way to fit the skirt part over the middle part between the human body and the spider body. Would be a really nice plus if I could. Anyone happen to own that figure tell me anything I should watch out for?
Seems like the spiderbody need quite a bit of smoothing out. Think if I put some epoxy sculpt or something with a damn good sanding will help get rid of a lot of the wrinkly bits on the spider body along with making more "Shell" parts out of some of the upper portions. Not much of a fan of how "fleshy" it looks, but seems like a simple problem to fix.
The hair either needs a bunch of work or maybe complete replacement with something. Wanted to do some sort of short haircut. Might try to take a mold from my figma dorothy and maybe add some bits and bobs.
Think I'm going to go with a black/purple scheme, seems like good spidery colors to me. If it works out would like to possibly take the additional fave and maybe make a "Monster form" head with mandibles or something but that would something to try if the main figure turns out.
What do you think? Feels like a good start to me.
>>5326396
Recently got my latest prototype goodies from Shapeways the other day. First off, I dun' fucked up on the custom 5mm ball-joints with the pegs not having thick enough connection points with the male/female ball hinges. Had to add a dab of super glue to reinforce them after two white-acrylic and one WSF broke. An easy fix to the CAD designs.
Had a few other larger proprietary joints made in WSF too. The larger ones were sturdier, though I've decided to stick with acrylic for all the joints here on out. I'll likely sell separate joint packs labeled for the specific archetype(s) they can be used for, like the standard Hobby Base packs but specialized. No pictures right this second, but will update with them tomorrow or so.
Quick question: what's the best way to deal with the residue that Shapeways's acrylic prints seem to have on them? Would a gentle rinse in soap+water be advised? My only concern is that it made joints too stiff from the sticky-resistance of the parts moving against each other.
>>5327117
Something to consider with you project:
Rachnera's 'human legs' (pedipalps of a spider) could be made by repurposing the mantis-like arms on the spider figure. According to Okayado, the human-like legs on Arachne are for leg-locking during sex pretty much. Just something to think about.
>>5327137
Soap and water will do the trick, yes.
>>5327162
>According to Okayado, the human-like legs on Arachne are for leg-locking during sex pretty much
<---This is how I always imagined it.
>We will never experience the violent loving of a sexy spider waifu while suspended helplessly in the air
Feels bad man.
1/2
>>5327603
2/2
>>5325085
or the pursuit of cobra Cobra commander (pictured, Kinda)
>>5325085
If you're looking for a brown one you could use Gambit from the Marvel Universe line.
>>5327137
So here's a few pics of my client's commission project I got from Shapeways. Sorry they're all potato-cam.
>>5327957
Assembled 1/2.
>>5327960
Assembled 2/2. Sorry for the blurriness.
I have a specific custom in mind that I want to have commissioned but I have no idea where to begin to make it happen, how do I find someone reputable?
>>5328050
I've won over 8 rewards for my master customming. I can make anything you want, for a price.
>>5328059
I'm Commander Shepard and this is my favorite custommizer on the Citadel
>>5327957
>>5327960
>>5327962
That's one small step for you commission, one giant leap for customs
you are making the dream possible papi-anon bless you and godspeed
>>5327957
they look so good, did you smooth'em or something??? or is it like they came out?
>>5328513
WSF has the option of getting 'polished' for like 50¢ extra or something, but really the excess powder can be brushed off with a normal toothbrush super-easy. What you saw was how it came out in the 'polished' option (minus the nooks and crannies the polishing process can't get). Getting it in color however makes the dust in the tight spots solidify from the dye, needing either sandpaper or some minor whittling/drilling to clear it out.
Thanks for the support, anons! Waiting to hear back from my client on his opinion. In the meantime I have Papi's shins, bird heels, talons and necessary joints in production right now with a second set of shins for building the loli/shota base figure side-by-side in production too. Next to design for the loli/shota are the feet and thighs. Might do the feet with toes for the archetype (like the Polynian's Clover and Shamrock) and just have other foot designs separate. And yes, the feet will have toe-articulation like newer Figmas have.
So I"m super new, at customizing (the I want to make my own figures, and have no idea what to do new), and I really want to make Papyrus, and Sans from Undertale, because I love those character, and want to make articulated figures.
>>5329129
Pose Skeletons with new heads and sculpted clothes could work. The biggest challenge would be getting the two to have the tall/skinny and short/stubby proportions, though. Maybe use one of the "child type" skellys for sans and a normal one for papyrus?
New to customizing, whats a good paint to use for the flesh tone of a standard figma?
>>5329129
no idea how you're gonna do sans
but papyrus seems easy enough with pose skellies
Anybody know of a good 6" male figure that is primarily blue, has modern drop down hips, and is inexpensive ($20-30)? I'm just looking to salvage blue hips for a different figure.
>>5331559
this but cost around $30-50 if not probably a marvel legends nightcrawler (blueface black clothes)
be more especific what is the character you want to make
>>5326635
post pics.
>>5332608
>>5332631
No, neither of those will work. But thank you for the suggestions regardless. Like I mentioned in my other post, I'm looking specifically for drop down hips, and just that. Those options do not have that. I'm going to be doing a swap to add articulation to a VAH Luffy, so the only part needed are blue drop down hips that would be standard 1/12 male-sized or thereabouts. The rest of the parts donor figure I'd either toss or put in a bin somewhere, so I really don't want to spend an incredible amount if at all possible. I'm thinking maybe an SHF that wasn't very popular? Or something along those lines?
Hey guys, I've been thinking about making some custom figures for some time now. I just need some more information about process and materials.
I want to make some custom figures of the characters in the pic. I've seen tutorials about casting, molding, and sculpting, but I still don't know how to make the flexible pieces needed for the figures. Various pieces on both figures would need to be a flexible plastic material. Hair, sleeves, skirt, shorts. Do you guys have any links or tips that could be helpful? I'm thinking about buying bootlegs of the blank figma male and female figures to use as their bases.
>>5332842
Smooth-On makes various grades of rubber for the soft materials. Good luck trying to get paint to adhere and not crack when flexed, though.
>>5332845
Maybe rubber isn't the best option, for painting. Is there anyway to get the kind of flexible plastic you find on figuarts/figmas?
>>5332855
The image guides up top will get you sorta-kinda-not-really close. You'll need a lot of trial and error and even then there's no guarantees. The key aspects are: lacquer thinner, silicone sealant (aka silicone caulk), and plastic dyes. Mix it to the consistency of ketchup, then coat the inside of your mold in a thin layer, making sure to cover the entirety of it. Then set it for a few days in a ventilated area (lacquer thinner fucking stinks, if you didn't know) and remove it.
Or you could find a white rubber to cast with and add dyes to skip on the whole painting thing (or at least minimize it).
I've also heard that special effects make-up artists use liquid rubber in their acrylic paints to detail rubber prosthetics and the sort so that it's both long lasting, strong, and capable of flexing without cracking. Lord knows I've never tried it, though. There's plenty of special effects artist forums online that you could browse through the archives of, I'm sure.
Finally: Every once in a while someone comes on here wondering if Plasti-Dip is the answer to their problem, or Sugru, but the answer is no. That stuff is not meant for the types of requirements that articulated figures come with.
>>5312298
What site is that shopping list for?
For those who don't know, I'm an unconventional Transformers customiser. I love to make the weirdest shit possible.
So, here's one I made a while ago, Mother, Cybertronian Matron:
http://www.seibertron.com/energonpub/mother-cybertronian-matron--t101503.php
....
Sooooo..... The baby is coming soon! Picture related.
What I love the most about making something as fucked-up as this is to find ways to make everything work. Lots of drilling and shavings are required to make the thing TRANSFORMABLE and POSABLE. The only thing I really hate is having to wait 24 hours for the glue to set and dry before continuing working.
See y'all in a week or two for the final result!
>>5333447
Your previous custom looks like a lot of nonsense, it isn't cohesive in either form and I'm pretty sure you jack off to it.
>>5333468
found the redditor
>>5333469
You didn't need to drop your trip to post that.
>>5333469
>>5333479
I don't get it. WTF are you both talking about? BTW, never went to Raddit and never will.
>>5333468
By "cohesive", do you mean that it dosent go well together? Oh sure, I'll give you that. That's why for The Son, I'll try to make a vehicle that look like a "real" cybertronian tank, while the robot will look like a bloody demon out of your worst nightmares. Shit will be glorious.
>>5333533
please leave
>>5333447
You're a brain dead down syndrome retard that should have gotten swallowed.
We know about about your shit and how you literally don't understand how the Postal Service works.
>>5333558
Wow. After all this time, you still think that? Carry on. One day, you will finally leave your mom's basement and start experiencing real life.
>>5333563
Go back to Seibertron.
>>5333533
By "cohesive" I mean it doesn't have a solid design, there's no vision behind it other than whatever you fap to.
Are dioramas considered customs?
>>5333661
Yep. They're a bit rarer to see here than on /tg/ but I personally like them.
>>5333661
Yes, some guy posted pic related a few threads ago.
>>5333533
It looks like a pile of shit in both modes, that's what they mean by cohesive. It doesn't look like a robot and it doesn't look like a vehicle either.
>>5333447
>>5333533
>>5333563
I can appreciate the fact that customing transformers stuff is a challenge due to the whole transforming aspect, but you're results are not that great on either side, and have a lot of bad tacked-on things that detract more than add. (especially the dumb jewelry on the robot form)
Also you're attention whoring isn't really appreciated. You're welcome to stay on that forum if you just want more ass-pats.
>>5334405
The scale model kit thread and the WIP thread on /tg/ is a decent place to start. I learned to work with plaster from there.
>>5334460
Here's another neat video that has some pretty great ideas in it. Never thought of using magnates in the walls. Would be super helpful for some photo angles.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vf0zdUMMvWs
>>5309192
Replace that shitty Link, and that shitty Flash with something good, and we'll talk.
>>5335333
>shitty Link
You must be new here.
>>5335333
Provide some OC to fill those spaces, and we'll talk.
>>5317226
Do you have any experience with the Figma joints that are sold in packs like that on eBay? Trying to decide on a Figma pack or revo pack.
>>5336313
I've bought an 80 pack from a seller named cof7788 and went back for a 100 pack. They were legitimate quality figma joints both times, but there were some duds mixed in like the other guy said.
Sorry if this isn't the right place to ask, but if I were fixing the tears in a piece of pvc (like on a jacket or dress or something) what would I use?
>>5337221
I wouldn't really go with a glue, due to seepage issues and possible flaking on the outside surface. You'd make one problem into a compounded problem. If the tear is fine enough you might be able to get away with using electrician's tape on the backside of the tear, scotch tape might even be sufficient. Nuclear option is to get some Plastruct and melt it back together from the inside. Honestly though you're only going to get vague answers if you don't actually post pictures for us to get a full idea.
>>5337613
I completely over estimated how sturdy his jacket was when messing around with the arms. Both sides look like this now.
>>5337631
Uh... wow, yikes. I would say it ain't coming back, I thought you were talking like a small hairline tear on a figma skirt or something. It's hard for me to gain full context on what I'm seeing as I have no idea what the toy is, and whether that's like the front or the back, but I would say it isn't going to get much better.
>>5337641
It's the front of the Tretij Rebenok PAK. Is there really no hope?
>>5337651
>>5337651
I honestly think you'll fuck it up further if you try anything. I don't mean this as an insult, but if you had the ability to patch and fix it you wouldn't be here for advice. I would say just live with it and view it as a small flaw rather than go for a fix and make it a big flaw.
>>5337662
Okay... I was worried about that, but I'd rather not make it worse. Thanks for the advice anon.
>>5337692
No problem. I mean, it doesn't appear that there's any stark contrast with flesh colored plastic peeping through behind it, so realistically it will completely blend. Worst case scenario, if the damage does increase and begins expanding further over time, I would recommend just ebaying a black soft plastic toy part and affixing it behind the damage. Things like Mattel WWE rubber shirts and knee/elbow pads are ideal due to their pliability and cheap price.
>>5337728
I think that would be good if the tear gets worse. For now, do you think a bit of black electrical tape behind it would hide it a bit better? I can always just keep him in the sweater I bought for him too.
>>5337745
I would say don't aggravate it further. You'd need to pull and ply and stretch ever so slightly to fully seat the tape, and it might not be worth it at this point. Right now you have a clean tear, but you always run the risk of introducing off-color stress marks that would REALLY stand out.
>>5337752
Sweater it is. Thank you so much, anon. He's my favorite so I was pretty devastated but I feel better now.
Anyone else like to do simple kitbashes?
Are these also considered customs or do they have to involve extensive alteration of the original figure, I always wondered.
>>5337871
As in mere part swapping with slight mods for part compatibility? I don't see why not.
>>5333717
OH wow someone actually saved that! Made a lot of progress since then and its mostly done (just needs decorations).
>>5334460
>>5334477
OH those are cool, I might try stuff from these!
>>5337871
I feel like any painting, sculpting, cutting, or general altering of an original toy body (or bodies), or accessory, is pretty clear cut customizing. What sets a "custom" apart is the fact that it is no longer factory-identical, not the degree of work you put into making it so. Realistically though if you cram an arm from one figure into another without doing anything else you'll probably only get grief from a dickhead with nothing better to do with their lives. Everyone else will just ignore it because there's nothing to really talk about with it.
>>5337871
My favorite kitbash.
>>5337889
Yeah exactly, always making sure that you can reverse any kitbash to the figures original state, because I can't afford to damage one figure for the sake of a kitbash, which is why I like 1/6 and Hasbro figures the most for this, lots of accessories and lots of possibilities.
>>5337947
Fair enough
>>5337985
Looks good, heres another simple one of mine, my kitbashes usually involve adding more gear onto the figures, that's always fun.
So Papi's shins, heels, talons, and custom 5mm joints all came in today. I feel regarded for placing this order with the joints in WSF BEFORE I tried the 5mm joints out in acrylic. Even more determined to avoid WSF with joints than ever before.
That aside, pic related is the set up of Papi's legs from the knees-down, the thigh piece is a plastic-epoxy copy of the Revo-mini Rei figure I have (not pictured) that I'll use for whipping up the loli/shota/Papi thighs to be printed next order. Papi's body will be based on the dimensions of the Revo-Mini Asuka figure in the picture, so the end result will have Papi at about 5in. tall, better than the 6in. height that resulted from just trying to slap bird heels on a Miku copy.
In case anyone was curious, the figure on the left is the clear version of the NEW Figma female archetype. I had to put a book behind it to try and get it to not blend in with my wall.
>>5338572
'Retarded', not regarded. Fucking auto-correct.
>>5338572
Some more shots of the leg.
>>5338623
Yes, make sure the dimensions are right when you upload the file. Sometimes the scaling goes way off on the site. What type of figure are you doing? Are the joints going to be separate or part of the sculpt? Piece of advice, having all the parts (or as many as you can fit) on one file upload connected by sprews will save you money over making a bunch of smaller chunks of parts to be printed.
Also, if you want to save some minor change, get any plain WSF unpolished. Just use an old toothbrush to gently brush off any of the powder. That's really all the 'polished' service does in the end.
>>5338634
making an OC waifu-esque figure thats pretty much an articulated version of this marvel legends female grim reaper statue. I picked up my first ML figure for 10 bucks off amazon and I plan on sculpting the body a bit to fit my tastes and then make a dress for it. I plan on printing out hands and a skull, so i'm a bit worried about printing out the skull with a a big enough peg hole for the neck. Not going to use the shapeways site, though. The school i'm going to got a makerbot printer recently, so i'm going to try and print them out after I move back from the break. I'd want to go for a figuarts/figma style joint for the hands, but I may just end up going with the normal joint similar to how the hand is on the figure.
>>5338655
I see. Well, the standard Figma-style 6mm ball joints have pegs roughly 3mm in diameter, and the newer Figma wrists' joints have pegs roughly 2mm in diameter. Is the body going to be articulated as well? Never seen the ML Death figure in-person, so I don't have much else to say on the figure or its dimensions.
Current project is repainting Soundwave from the Arms Micron line as Soundblaster. Started it about two years ago, getting into customizing again. As such, I am going to change the color of some previously painted parts.
What is a good way to remove Tamiya acrylic paint from specific spots without damage to the model? Most guides I found deal with removing the factory applied paint or paint from the whole figure. I want to remove the the red and yellow from the figure.
>>5339793
Here are better pics of some specific parts. The parts that I replace the red or yellow parts with purple paint.
>>5338572
How tough are the joints?
>>5339795
Arm.
>>5339798
Leg piece.
>>5326560
>>5326635
if it's Retro Cloth Jason, you could make a small incision in it's chest so you could have him being stabbed by the fence post. Mask isn't needed if you want to replicate him in tne coffin.
>>5339688
I'm not using the ML death, it's just what inspired me to make my own figure. I'm using the ML Wasp as the base, and painting and sculpting her to suit my needs. Also 3d printing the skull and maybe the hands. I'm still trying to figure it out.
>>5339796
The WSF are sub to near Hobby Base sturdiness at larger sizes. These small 5mm joints are better in acrylic, but my first batch had a design flaw I failed to notice or consider. The next acrylic set I have in my cart ready for next time has the fixes made to the design. Aside from the flaw, the acrylic 5mm were decent, only issue besides the pegs snapping was the residue on the material keeping the joint rather tight.
The WSF version of my 5mm joints need the center 1mm hole in the male piece drilled out to clean out the dust, but the 1mm rod of the WSF center peg is flimsy while the acrylic is stiffer.
Hey, I saw this on facebook and I basically want to do the same thing.
I don't have any paint experience besides minimal gunpla stuff. I figured I could use black gundam markers for the marks on the clothes.
But what paint should I use for the blood and how should I paint it?
Any help is appreciated.
>>5333447
WORSE THAN JINS CUSTOMS
>>5340255
Have you considered just getting them cast in ABS simulant resin?
What'd be a good base for an articulated KANA figure?
>>5341838
Watch out last time someone suggested that an aspie came out of the woodwork to tell everyone that they should have their joints milled out of pom.
>>5340732
It looks like he used either super watered down red or a mix of red paint and red ink. But he definitely didn't just use straight paint.
>>5341838
The goal is to have my blank figures and their joints all a one-stop order on Shapeways. Next order I place will be the updated 5mm joints and some other goodies. No pics this second, but I'm about done with Papi's thighs in CAD. The thighs will attach to the hips like a Figma using a swiveling ball-and-socket joint.
>>5341976
cant wait to see that Papi loli torso and ass
godspeed and enjoy the holidays papi-anon
>>5341934
It doesn't have to be exactly the same I would prefer it sort of matte because I hate when i see a custom or something and it looks all glossy and gross
>>5342619
Anon are you an idiot or something, or do you just not watch/play much monstergirl material.
Also
>Monstergirl Island
Literally my fucking dream game holy shit, thanks for linking it I didn't know it exists, this oughta satisfy that itch since playing Monmusu Quest
>>5342619
His "original design", for comparison.
>>5342619
Are you being serious right now?
>>5342631
see
>>5342628
then see the one in
>>5327442
>>5327439
>>5342641
>>5342628
And I just played the demo - twice, and oh my god I am so glad you made that error and posted about it here because this game is incredible...
I'm gonna need to go sleep now and recover
Found my 2012 Raphael figure in a box.
Figured I'd make a custom out of it. What should I go for?
>>5342631
only the human part (legs torso head) looks like it, the spider parts actually look bad like she fatspider
his only proble is he probably hasn read enogh spider girls doujin or did it because that design is popular right now
>>5342631
Huh, that's actually pretty cool. I like that he used a thorny spider as inspiration.
As for it "ripping off" the design, spider-girls like that have been around for donkey's years, and the similarities end pretty much there. The pedipalp-legs are pretty similar I guess but didn't Croix base the idea on Rachnera from Monster Musume anyway? (IIRC Croix's custom is actually meant to be Rachnera.)
If I were making a spider-girl I'd probably base her spidery bits on either a Golden Orb-Weaver ('cause those things are fucking awesome) or a Tarantula ('cause let's be honest, a gigantic, busty, shy onee-chan with a spider body with thick, curvy legs and covered in silky red fur is adorable).
>The Stalk figure never
>>5327117 here.
So I guess I didn't realize how friggen big the spider body actually was compared to the human. The abdomen is the size of the figure and it doesn't even have the legs on!
Not sure if its too big/unusable or not. I also have a old shelob hanging around that can maybe be used instead as a base. Either way looks like I'm going to replacing most the joints on this thing. Either that or sculpring a body from scratch.
On the other hand marvel legends figures seem like they fit just fine on the body. It might be possible to use that instead and see about sculpting on a maid uniform or something. Thoughts?
>>5344385
why don't you try to make a revoltech base on the right spider just like the horse can turn in a centaur so you can go back from arachne and maid, aslo the grey spider is overall more sexy and better designed
to bad there are no revoltech gigant spiders in the kaiju/sci-fi collections
>>5344562
That's actually the plan, hopefully.
Thinking of putting the other spiders legs on the grey spiders body as I like the look more.
Also man I would buy the shit put of revol monster or hell ANY KIND of animal.
>>5326531
>That or a maid outfit as the idea a spidergirl that climbs to dust high places is entertaining.
I've been working on my Rachnera's clothes using her default outfit as reference. But now I'm seriously considering making an alternate body for spider-maid mode.
What'd be a good paint to make my Base Goku head the SSG version, also recommended airbrush?
>>5348185
>>Rachnera as a maid.
Arachne aren't really my favorite monstergirls, but goddamn if that pic doesn't get my motor running.
Update on Papi/loli:
Thighs and revamped shins have been ordered via Shapeways along with the reinforced acrylic joints. ETA looking to be early Jan. or so. Next comes dat harpy ass for designing. I know I said I'd shoot for Figma-like ball-and-socket hips, but ball-joint Y-hips might be the the sturdier and easier route due to the size constraints.
Thoughts?
>>5348219
1. Acrylic
2. Paasche or some other kit brush, something with a gravity feed and dual action trigger. Then a compressor that fits your lifestyle, either a good tank one if you live in a home or a "silent" mini one if you're in an apartment. Expect to pay upwards of $175 or more for the AB and compressor, depending on brands.
3. If you don't even know what type of paint to use, an airbrush is going to be beyond your level
>>5348336
if it stills keeps the posability and style go with it papi-anon
if you think it obstructs the poses just adapt the design
if the style is nice, its still ok if its different, figma is great but also revoltech and figuarts and if you have your own whe support you man , go for it just remember to keep it moe and kawaii
>>5348780
I'm mainly worried about the chance of paint lumping
>>5348219
Wait for the SHF?
>>5334477
>peaugh music
Goddamn royalty free music libraries...
>>5349820
But I have a spare Goku head so it'd save buying a whole new figure
Hey, anyone got tips on removing awakening gokus boots? Got crooked boots
>>5352428
heat it, pop it
I want to make a custom Kamina, I need some opinions. Who would be a good base figma for this guy? I'm using a racing Miku for Yoko, but I'm not sure what to use for Kamina.
