Scale Plastics
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You are currently reading a thread in /toy/ - Toys
You are currently reading a thread in /toy/ - Toys
This thread is dedicated to any and all scale plastic models.
-Discuss model kits
-Post your projects and/or finished builds
-Discuss and share tips and techniques
-Ask for help and/or advice
-Etc
Here's how I handle photo etch (PE) parts.
1. I soak the frets in a mix of vinegar and some table salt for 5-10 minutes. I immediately rinse off the frets with water and give them a quick dip in denatured alcohol and pat dry between paper towels. This cleans the brass and partially etches the brass so that paint and adhesives can stick better.
2. I use double-sided tape to stick the fret and the parts I want to cut to a cutting board. This prevents the parts from flying away when you cut them and gives the knife a bit of cushion for a cleaner cut. I use a curved blade to cut them so I don't have to worry about breaking the tip.
3. I use diamond files and sanding sticks to sand the attachment points smooth. I'll give the parts a quick dip in denatured alcohol to clean off any dirts/oils/sanding debris.
4. I'll bend the parts using a PE bending rig (like pictured) and a flat end blade. You can bend some PE parts by hand/tweezers, but it's rather hard if not impossible to bend some PE parts by hand. It's a wise investment to buy a bending tool if you plan to continue to use PE parts.
>>4539673
5. I use cyanoacrylate (CA) to attach PE parts to a model, but I have different types of CA for different purposes. (White PVA glue can also be used along with a few other adhesives, but I prefer CA.) I have a thick type which I use for filling gaps or creating weld seams. I have a medium type for general purpose. I have a thin type for using like thin liquid cement and flowing around the PE parts to make sure they are attached. I either use tweezers or a toothpick with a damp end to move PE parts.
a. I'll first use medium CA to attach most parts to a model. I'll apply it to a toothpick and then apply to the PE part or where it's getting attached.
b. If needed or for larger parts, I'll use thin CA to make sure they stay on. Thin CA runs everywhere and can be a pain to use. It is also applied differently than normal CA. It must be applied using a special forked tool, similar to a needle loop with the top cut off, or a wire. I pour some thin CA onto a plastic lid and then roll the tip of the wire into it. I'll carefully run the tip of the wire along the edge of the PE part and capillary action will draw it around the part. The CA will dry almost instantly so you don't want to screw this up.
c. I'll use thick CA for gaps or parts that I want to simulate welding on.
(You can use soldering to attach PE parts to each other and to weld bend joints together, but I haven't done this yet. You still would need to use CA to attach them to plastic.)
6. You'll want to prime PE parts before you use an acrylic on them because the acrylic will have a hard time sticking to bare metal. I prime everything with Tamiya primer anyways.
>>4539681
Also, I don't use Eduard's pre-printed PE. Vinegar might remove the printing. Denatured alcohol definitely will.
Lots of PE guides on the internet
https://www.google.com/search?q=photo+etch+guide
Here's some questions for the thread:
>Buy anything new recently?
>What's new on your wishlist?
>Finish anything recently?
>What are you working on now?
>Best quick tip/technique?
>Buy anything new recently?
Bronco 1/35 Triumph 3HW Cycles
>What's new on your wishlist?
HK Models 1/32 Do 335, Bronco 1/35 Pz.35(t), Grochi 1/35 M3A3
>Finish anything recently?
Nope.
>What are you working on now?
AFV Club 1/35 Churchill Mk.IV AVRE
Bronco 1/35 Triumph 3HW Cycles
>Best quick tip/technique?
These things are great for storing parts/assemblies and stripping paint. You can also use the lids for mixing paint and using putty and CA. A pack is pretty cheap and will last you for awhile.
>>4539673
>>4539681
>>4539696
Jesus that is pretty complex for an intermediate modeller like me.
So far I want to just perfect standard plastic on plastic modelling and fucking decals man those are confusing as hell, before I move on to photo-etched parts.
But I do want to eventually as photo etch are good for rails, radar, ladders and the like on warships.
Here's a random Rodney.
I just bought
-AMT Cardassian Galor class
-MONOGRAM Voyager 3 piece set
-STARCRAFTS Akira class resin kit
I'm starting a Star Trek 1/1400 collection revolving around my DS Enterprise D
>>4539944
I'm gonna dump some glorious fucking models of all types but mostly military dioramas from some scale model challenge from the Netherlands I think.
Seriously cool inspirational stuff
>>4539949
woops didn't mean to reply to you
Also if anyone has any other link to large photo galleries of quality pics from scale model events please post them I need this stuff, the creativity of humanity never ceases to amaze me.
This is the short of crazy stuff you do when you get bored of making your 100th static model and decide to spice it all up I guess
Imagine being the poor SOBs in there
My current project, need to touch up the phaser arrays some. Waiting on the decal sheet from JTGraphics.
Now this is train modelling I can get behind.
>>4539627
Never built a kit from that brand before, but I'm starting to get big into 1:32 aircraft.
Currently working on Tamiya's godly P-51D kit. This kit is I think the most advanced, well designed kit in existence, along with Tamiya's other 1:32 aircraft. No one even comes close to the level of detail, ease of building and engineering that is present in Tamiya's kits.
Even Zoukei-Mura, a newer Japanese company making great 1:32 kits is not even close to Tamiya's perfection.
I don't know what they use to make their plastic, but it is also superior to almost every other brand I've built. It's just soft enough to work with easily, but not too soft. It also just feels of higher quality than other manufacturers.
pic related is a recent hasegawa 1:32 Fw-190D-9 kit I built. It's an older kit, but it's still decent. Lacks rivetting on the wings, but it's not that big of a deal.
>>4540004
Fucking awesome.
This one is pretty damn cool.
>>4540102
>>4540106
woops, didn't meant to reply again, and really in answer to your question I don't fucking know, I'm just dumping cool pics
if only he built the full Baneblade..
>>4539745
>I have been recently getting back into the hobby, my family is aware and are probably buying kits for me for christmas
>I have a massive backlog already
>I'm working on a revell P-47, the mold is a bit dated and it has some fit issues but it's otherwise really nice
>Wishlist maybe revell's new 1-72 Ju-88
>not my work
>>4540208
Is that the Balls Out 1/72 revel P-47?
>>4540108
>I don't like weebs
>Posts on 4chan
HURR
>>4540352
>missing the point entirely
good job
>>4540102
I don't like gundam
>>4540030
10/10, made me feel nostalgic.
My dad brought that baseball cap back home when he returned from his service at the Golan Heights. It is the best baseball cap we have ever owned.
Good to know toy is full of Autists who shitpost in every thread.
>>4540402
I agree. Ids would greatly help keep them out.
>>4540404
That would not do anything to stop them from shitposting.
>Thread is nothing but spamming images of other peoples work
>Not a single picture of a posters actual build
This thread should be deleted and you should be banned from the Gunpla general too.
>>4540418
Yea sorry op. Better move on my ass to the /k/ board where us real men play with real toys.
>>4540423
>guns
>toys
![SpazKillFutureRaw-vi[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/SxU890V.jpg "SpazKillFutureRaw-vi[1].jpg")
>>4540402
I think its just the same guy.
but I do have to agree we need more talk and oc than just filling threads with pics of other peoples work.
>>4540102
it should be simple, one is for gunplay one is
not.
>>4539796
I just started collecting these, my rents bring them home from work.
also plastic spoons for testing paint on. pic related
>>4539973
using gloss, ever. you have a lot to learn young padawan.
If your working on something post pics, don't just say youre working on it.
>>4540418
>select a few dozen good quality pictures I found that aren't your standard fare models
>post them for inspiration and out of passion for human creativity
>keeps the thread bumped too
>can start discussion in thread
Fuck you mate, you don't dictate what we aren't and are allowed to post in plastic model threads.
So why don't you sit back, shut up and enjoy some human creativity you sod.
/dump
You can find the rest of the pics over here, I just posted the really good ones-
http://www.wargamer.com/Hosted/Panzer/smc2014/index.html
1. There is already a plamo general.
2. If you have to keep a general alive by dumping random pictures then it probably shouldn't exist.
>>4540732
>1. There is already a plamo general.
I really don't get what your saying? Are you making a reference to playmobile or something else?
>>4540732
I had so many pics I figured that I better dump them in this thread than the plamo one because that would lower the image count by a whole lot at the end of it all and the people in that general might not appreciate that.
But this thread has way less posts and isn't a general so I figured I would dump them here.
If you want me to dump them in the plamo general next time I come across a similar set then I will.
I'm also not too keen on splitting apart the gunpla and plamo threads because then who the fuck wants to browse two threads for the same hobby essentially, but gunpla does tend to compose 90% of a plamo general.
Fuck it, next time I'll dump these in the gunpla/plamo general
>>4540732
Not OP, but seriously, if you're not just trolling, then please eat the largest dick in your vicinity.
While I haven't posted in this thread until now, I happen to love military models in general, I just don't have any on the go at the moment, but it really pleases me to see other anons on toy enjoy the subject, too.
OP's image dump is a thousand times more stimulating than most of the comments/posts made on this board anyway. Your post is evidence of that.
>>4540732
Stop trying to mini-mod and be a dick.
>>4540742
His concerns do have validity though, just sayan.
>>4540738
not my dump this thread... its someone else.
I actually support less dumping more oc.
>>4540747
Yeah don't worry I won't be dumping pics here anymore that I come across, I'll post them in the plamo general.
Except for this one, because I'm a rebel
>>4540742
It confuses me anon - I don't understand what he's telling us. If I know that THEN I can freely ignore him.
>>4540520
>narcing on his glosscoat
You're showing your scrub colors, anon. Reread his post; he's waiting on decals. you never set decals straight onto paint (unless you enjoy silvering for some reason).
>>4540757
I've barely begun modelling, I use these pics as inspiration and motivation, figured others would appreciate them as well.
>>4540758
>I use these pics as inspiration and motivation
I find them to be much better used as eye masturbation material.
>>4540757
I guess you've never weathered anything before or read any modeling guides, because you want to do it on a gloss coat.
Guys, the Gunpla general doesn't want a split, so make sure to dump the images in their general. All the images.
>>4540760
Well what's the difference really?
>>4540761
feel free to show me a guide that specifies laying down gloss.
I do read a lot.
even the hairspray techniques done over primer.
>>4540779
Here's one:
http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2003/01/stuff_eng_tech_afv_weathering.htm
Google search yields a bunch of other results as well. A gloss coat is needed for a wash to flow. It's due to the difference in the surface of a gloss coat vs a flat coat; the same reason you want to use a gloss coat for decalling.
http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=215194
![IMG_0003[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/DauvtK9.jpg "IMG_0003[1].jpg")
>>4540789
even in the thread you linked to, there are comments saying not to apply AK ie MIG products over gloss.
you don't need wash to flow as you simply put a wash where you want it. a wash is applied to the whole model and cleaned off where not needed.
In regards to decals, they can be added on a flat coat adding future under the spots where they need to go. this creates the gloss surface.
were just arguing over 2 ways to do the same thing. the result is the same. u have a weathered model with decals applied.
What cheap kits would you suggest to someone who is starting out?
I'm looking for some 1/72 WW2 props that cost at most 10~15 dollars and aren't that hard to build, preferably 109s, Long-nose 190s, Zeroes, Corsairs and Hellcats as these are some of my favorite planes.
Any recommendations?
>>4540829
You need to stop posting... you also need the gloss to clean the excess wash after you panel line. And I DARE you to try aztecing a model using Future as a setter. That's just asking for suffering.
>>4540942
Airfix are good for beginners, they do a 109E-3 starter kit on Amazon for $13 that comes with some paints, glue and a brush.
>>4541033
NO U.
aztecing is a mask to mask off 2 shades of paint.
>>4541043
Nice, I'm having a look at their Starter Kits and they also have a Zero, a Spitfire and a Fw190 A-8.
I think I'll buy the 109, the Zero and the Spitfire to start off, as I'm pretty sure I'll mess up at first but will gradually get better.
Thanks.
what happened to spitfire guy from the last thread?
>>4524744
>>4541033
Theres know point in arguing with him anon. His sole purpose is to shit up this thread with his superiority complex.
>>4540757
I think it looks fine, though the nacells and phaser arrays need to be done alittle better.
>>4541275
Ya, I done really do a lot of modeling. I'm trying to start a collection revolving around the 1/1400 DS Enterprise D. Some ships I can only get in that scale have to be model kits. And ya I'm a novice, but it doesn't matter the gloss makes the ship look better with the other store bought ships. It doesn't need to be weathered.
>>4540702
I love that plane, I built one myself a few months ago!
>>4541381
unfff that looks a fine paint job anon
