Scale Model Kit Thread
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You are currently reading a thread in /toy/ - Toys
You are currently reading a thread in /toy/ - Toys
This thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resin) models kits.
-Post photos of your builds in progress and your finished builds
-Have your builds critiqued or critique others
-Discuss tips and techniques
-Ask for advice or give advice to others
Some helpful guides to get started:
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20%28Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step%29.pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com/
Previous Thread >>5703339
Using that shitty wash as a base paint was a fuckhuge mistake... It's dry but wet, it's weird, like a silicone coat. I'll let it dry for one day and hope it gets really solid to continue painting.
Also someone on the last threat was talking about decals and filters, here is the order in which I use them:
Primer
Acrylic paints
Decal
Coat of satin varnish (you can skip this step depending of the situation)
Filter
Chipping and scratches (paint and metal)
Oils (if you use them)
Washes
Pigments/mud
I used to do a final coat with Matt varnish but I've read that you shouldn't, which was what I tried with the kv 1 and the final result is much rich with the different textures and "reflections". And the decals represent things painted at the deposits/factories so they have to show the same wear as the rest of the thing, that's why they have to be put before the weathering
>>5733255
Oh man. Id start over with a flat brown coat
Has anyone ever done home casting? I have some 1/72 figures that I need more of for a diorama
>>5733356
I don't know about this thread, but I think the Customs thread might be able to help you, I think I've seen people discussing it over there.
Area 88 models are being brought back
http://www.amiami.com/top/detail/detail?gcode=TOY-SCL2-60381
>>5733341
Yeah, I've airbrushed this brown that came with the Berlin brigade paint kit and now looks like a good shade of mud to have as a base, tomorrow I'll work with the darker shades and the wet effect and probably finish it
>>5733612
Why did you buy the Berlin camo set? Are you planning to build a Chieftain?
>>5733618
Yes, I couldn't resist to buy it when in my hobby store they put the takom models for sale. From 70€ to 39€ the absolute madman. Also
>that camouflage pattern
I'll do it after I finish this kv1 and its base and the Ferdinand
>>5733612
Much better
I'm going to build a Hasegawa F-8E for my first kit. Is there anything I should know about it?
Also, are there alternatives to using an airbrush?
>>5733725
About the kit
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/103131-hasegawa-07225-vought-f-8e-crusader
Seems a good kit for a first if you find it cheap, but I think that for the first 5~ its better to buy the cheapest ones (Airfix, bargain bin, sales, etc), like for less than 30€ for model for example. So when you fuck up is not a great loss and you can keep practicing with them without fear or remorse.
For the airbrush alternative i used to hand paint all my models and for monochrome schemes tamiya spray cans, but now that I have a compressor and airbrush there's a lot of difference, mainly in the control of the paint because spray cans tend to make like round marks of accumulated paint if you use too much and stuff like that. But as you are starting I would worry more about learning to build the models right (fitting, sanding, glueing clear parts, PE, etc) first and then about the finishing. The pic is my tamiya uhu (quite expensive for what I did with it) that is painted with spray and hand brush, no weathering and with a lot of mistakes but not bad, I'll buy another one someday and do it with all I've learned
>>5733753
>but I think that for the first 5~ its better to buy the cheapest ones (Airfix, bargain bin, sales, etc)
you can order cheap hasegawa(15$ for a 1/72) from ebay with free shipping.
what do hasegawa markings on their boxes mean? there are colored strips(red green blue purple) and codes like C9, D9.
>>5733725
Modern tricycle undercarriage jets might need some weight in the nose to ensure the front wheel stays on the ground. It's usually no more than 20g but it's something to keep in mind.
>>5733753
How easy to handle are the Tamiya spray cans? I've only brush painted before but it seems like a spray can would be nice for applying a basic coat. Also, do you need some special ventilation when using them or could you just spread out some newspaper in the room and go nuts?
>>5734638
It's spray paint. You probably want to do it outside or in a garage at the very least.
do anyone of you guys tried those rivets decals? are they even worth buying?
Small update, had some fitting problems (now I know why they always start the base while their models are in assembly stages m) but now rests well on the holes, I'm not quite happy with the deep of the mud so I'll have to make the walls higher.
>>5734801
I've never seen it in rivets, but tamiya and dragon I think have zimmerit decals and they look okayish, and if you cared enough about that you could do it with paste or PE. So if they are similar to the tamiya one and not too expensive can't hurt to try
>>5734638
Just as >>5734639 said, use it in a well ventilated room or outside, I used to do it on my terrace, but anywhere with airflow and a prepared surface for the overspray is good enough. Be careful with the application, several mist like coats well dry are better than a sole blotchy one. But it can be carefully sanded if you make some mistakes.
>>5735002
And done, it ended up much darker than I wanted but it's still wet. Tomorrow I'll see and probably be done with it finally
>>5735571
Finished, now I'll try to make some puddles with gloss varnish or glue and be done with it
>>5736805
that looks fucking cool anon
>>5736805
desu, I think the base is too big. I mean, its just mud, it's a very well made mud none the less but there's too much of it and its just make the diorama dull.
Adding puddles is a good idea and will bring it more to life but I still think you can cut down on the base, maybe cut it down to the dimensions of the tank.
On a different note, this is my 1st time using pigments and I cant get the order of actions right.
Right now the model is at gloss varnish and I'm applying washes and dry-brushing. Do I add the pigments now and then closing them off with Matt varnish or after the Matt varnish?
>>5736889
Why 4chan turn them to the side? Well whatever, some shitty pics so you get the general idea of how turned up
>>5736845
Thanks
>>5736848
Yeah the base is huge for what I had in mind, but this was the smallest frame they had and didn't feel like going on a quest to find the perfect one. If I find a smaller one perhaps I'll try to cut it down or add figures to live it up.
As for the pigments they are the last thing next to mud if you put some. I'll recommend you to only do one coat before the weathering so you don't dull and kill the different textures, but this is up to what you want to you model to look.
>>5736805
Vallejo still water, got mine for a project yesterday, cant wait to use it.
On another note, I've started something to help me get organized. I'm gonna build a little storage box for all my paints, with room to spare. I've measured, and it should be able to hold around 28 aerosol cans and 135 Tamiya paints.
What matte varnish would you recommend? It needs to be airbrushable, at the moment, I'm using Vallejo, but I'm not convinced that it's entirely matte.
>>5736912
Are you the sunken ship anon? The still waters or something similar would look better than my little experiment with the varnish. Cool side project btw
>>5736924
I've only used vajello so I can't tell about other brands, I think ak has some "ultramatte" varnish. Why do you need something so matte? Metal has a satin look
>>5736930
Thanks! My figure painting is terrible but I wanna improve it someday. So it's a looong term project, unless I find someone that is willing to paint them for me
>>5736945
>Why do you need something so matte? Metal has a satin look
It's mainly in the case of figures for me, I don't like them looking shiny.
>>5736848
I agree. Too much mud.
>>5736964
Then it's AK's Ultramatte Varnish for you. Have it myself, adhesion can be a bit iffy at times but that stuff is about as matte as it will get.
AKs figure paints have an ultramatte finish too, afaik.
>>5736980
Thank you anon.
>>5736924
I really like Alclad's klear kotes.
They have something like 5+ different varieties, gloss, semi-gloss, matte, semi-matte, flat. I have the semi-matte, matte and flat and they both work wonderfully. They are enamel based however and you will want to wear proper ventilation when spraying. I've gotten much better results with them than any acrylic or spray can I've used in the past.
>>5736945
I'm not, I'm the z-43 anon, I'm gonna be building a diorama of it docked. Problem is there is a surprisingly small amount of military dock pictures online
>>5737179
Should also mention, had to get some more pieces due to a shortage of materials, but thisll be the last I post till I'm done with it cus this is a scale model thread and not a woodworking thread
Work on the Indianapolis continues. I'm really starting to get fed up with these Pontos instructions though.
There are so many errors, so many numbers are just completely flat-out wrong. Not to mention the fact that an entire fret of photo etch (containing a bunch of replacement hatches and other parts) is found no where on the instructions. I mean you can see the parts used in some of the photographs, but it doesn't tell you the number of the part of anything.
The photo etch is nice though, fits together well and is well engineered, but my god these instructions...
I started the Ferdinand and wew dragon, they can't get a fucking straight surface or what? Also every thing is a little piece with awkward feed points (I don't know how is called in English the part where the sprue "connects" with the pieces) and "exit" points (which also don't know how are they called but I think you'll will understand what I'm talking about), the kit is old but I've done older ones by tamiya and they where flawless. I hope the newer ones are better.
>>5737196
Cool, I remember that Andrea miniatures had a book about a beautiful diorama about a uboot in a pier, but any dock of that time would look almost the same. Also the facilities weren't that different (at pier level) from a civilian one I think, I might be wrong but any photo of a 40s German Dock will suffice. Later I'll search in a stash of pdfs if I can find something related to warships
>>5737266
That PE hell And your main problem are the instructions... Ain't that some twisted shit? Just endure brother and deliver a beautiful model like that shimakaze
![CAM01126[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/Jg4VPct.jpg "CAM01126[1].jpg")
How does my drybrushing attempt look? I used acrylics for both the basecoat and drybrush itself.
>>5737304
The book is Andrea Press "Das Boot" which represents Brest in 1942 at 1/32 (that thing must be huge), pic related. Also here is the pdf stash courtesy of our chinese comrades that contains almost any publication scale model related or for references known to man:
https://pan.baidu.com/share/home?uk=690674037#category/type=0
Look for the books called “Anatomy of the Ship [x]” as they have pictures of them docked, the schellboots one have some for sure
>>5737347
What is that, a chair?
>>5737667
It's a Mad Doctor's lab table. How'd I do?
>>5733109
Hey guys I was wondering if you could help me. I bought an airbrush and compressor a few months back but only set it up yesterday cause of timing issues. I bought tamiya mini paints and tamiya thinner. Following the advice of andyshobbyheadquarters I filled the pot of black paint with thinner to about an 8th of an inch from the bottle top and gave it a good shake. I set up the airbrush and added the paint but no paints coming through. I'm getting air but no paint. After looking around I saw the suggestion to run water through the airbrush instead, tried that but no luck.
tl;dr airbrush sprays air but doesnt spray paint, can you help? Pic related is the kit I bought
>>5737718
have you released that little pressure screw underneath the airbrush?
also are you using the trigger correctly?
its dual action so you have to press it down and pull it back
>>5737696
I would give it a lighter coat, similar to pic related, and do a wash to accentuate the crevices. If you want dark wood then do the wash and see if you are happy and then continue from there. Other option is weathered wood that is grayish/pale. Painting wood is an important and complex part of making models because can tell if the vehicle has been out there a long time or is a new replacement or more info about the theater, the same goes for diorama components.
>>5737758
yeah I've adjusted the screw in both directions but theres no difference and I've adjusted the knob on the compressor with no difference. I've pushed down and slowly pulled back on the trigger as far as it will go and held it thinking maybe the paint just takes a while to flow but nothing
>>5737763
okay, unscrew the back half off, loosen that grip thing that holds the needle in, then pull the needle back a bit whilst spraying.
>>5737770
I've tried that but I'll try it again. From what I gather the needle fits into the needle gap to plug the end, restricting the paints flow a bit like a cork in a bottle? So I may need to adjust it
![airbrush-mechanism[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/qxcGH74.jpg "airbrush-mechanism[1].jpg")
>>5737777
yea kinda, by loosing it a bit your giving the paint a bigger gap.
well heres a vid on taking it apart, different model but theyre all pretty much the same.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fRTmFioUTAk
if nothings working sounds like a blocked nozzle. so you want to take the needle out.
and the trigger, then take the tip off the front.
then inspect the remaining part, see if any water will flow trough it.
you want to put airbrush cleaner through it, that`ll dissolve any hardened paint that might be blocking it, then put it back together.
if u look at the diagram you see the airbrush releases the paint by you pulling the needle back and making the gap bigger.
>>5737795
ah right yeah got you. Cheers pal I'll see if that works
>>5737761
Would I be better waiting to just accumulate Enamels and Artist Oils or just do it with Acrylics? I'm able to the latter, but I don't know how well it'd show with a wash of all things.
>>5737838
With oils/enamel I’m personally more comfortable so I recommend those.
Pros: you don’t need to worry about the acrylics paints as they don’t affect them, easy to control and can be worked on forever as you can just wash them all away and start again and also dry up slower (2 days with oils to be sure).
Cons: you will need a good white spirits supply to act as a thinner/clean up agent, the smell and messiness to clean up afterwards, also you can “erase” previous enamel works if they are not protected/dried up.
With the acrylics you have to work fast and cannot recover mistakes easily (with either method better coat it with varnish to seal the base colors when you are happy with it and then, as you can always paint on top again) and they are trickier to control in washes. I personally only had bad experiences with them, also you will need a drying retarder if you don’t have one to ease things
>>5737763
Adjust your needle?
Almostdone. Need a little more weathering, some cleanup, and some decent pics
>>5738722
And lighted. Theres also a blinking red light on top.
>>5738730
Fucking captcha
>>5738722
That's really cool! Glad to see that you got the lights to work in the end. The only detail that I don't like that much is where the tentacles of the octopus connect to the body as there seems to be quite visible gaps. Although I must admit that I'm no expert on octopuses, maybe that's how they actually look.
>>5739242
Yea, youre right. Im debating on filling them/repainting. I guess if they're bad enough that someone else noticed them I better do it
anyone got tips for oil streaks? I got some burnt umber oils, made a little dribble, and used a qtip damp with mineral spirits. Doesnt look good.
>>5740221
1. Dampen the surface with mineral spirits
2. Apply small dot (s) of oil paint at starting point of streak
3. Let dry approx. 10 minutes
4. Get a rather soft brush (flat if possible), dampen with non-agressive thinner / mineral spirits and CAREFULLY brush over the oil paint in the desired direction.
Don't do fast brush wipes, it'll look bad.
Also small WIP update;
Applied camo stripes and painted some of the roadwheels green and red-brown. Green and brown dots are on, dark yellow dots will follow.
>>5740778
Why did that turn on its side ffs
Done with the assembly, except for the tracks that will take this whole afternoon. I hope to finish it today and paint it all tomorrow
>>5738740
Can you do a photo of it in the dark? Also i thought of something cool that didn't cross my mind when I told you about the LEDs and resistors, you can put a potentiometer (variable resistor) to dim the leds at pleasure. You can put it now as it doesn't affect the actual installation, if you are interested I can tell more on how to do it as is really easy
>>5740780
Looks really good, the case is custom or from the store? Also those fine ass tracks
What do you guys do with your boxes? Keep or toss?
>>5741031
Toss
>>5737304
Just found this pic online, is this what you were talking about?
>>5741181
I posted a pic and the book of the one I said, but yeah this one is similar
>>5740905
Is that the Ferdinand? Looks good my man.
Wat camo scheme are you planning on painting it?
>>5741235
Ah, I just saw it, thanks for pointing that out, looks like a good reference image
>>5741242
Yes, I'm going to do the kursk colors (dunkelgelb with some green spots). Any body can tell if the skull decal was for a Kursk unit or some references of a skull in a Ferdinand? I kinda wanna put it despite looking a bit "born to kill hurrr durr get some" and can't find anything online
>>5741296
No problem, with the one you found and some references you should be good
Anyone else go though bipolar cycles with models? Things go bad and you hate the hobby but after a few days, you come back to it strong and it repeats? Fuck bad fitting kits. Fuck clogged air brushes. Fuck dust.
>>5742033
Yeah. Each model I make, I end up hating it, then I grow to like it.
I often just get frustrated, and leave a model until I feel like working on it again.
>>5742033
Constantly. Ill make a model that looks great, and the next one wont. Its easy to get frustated
I tried stynylrez for the first time. I quite like it but I get a ton of tip dry. Does anyone add retarder or flow aid to it?
Mildly Scale model related.
I bought a Heng Long KV1, and a KV2 turret kit on the same day. The turret arrived but the tank is nowhere to be seen.
How long did it take for you guys to get so good at air brushing and model construction?
Been wanting to tackle a Polar Lights enterprise for a long time and while I could do the lights easy enough, I wouldn't know where to start on the paint job.
https://youtu.be/jfLze1zqsgQ?t=3m12s
>>5742548
I've never knew that other than tamiyas existed, I guess it was a matter of time for the chinese to copy it. Well if the box is big then something is fucked, if the box is small perhaps you ordered a replacement turret?
Also check this dudes rebuild of his kv1
https://www.rctankwarfare.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=7836&start=60
The absolute madman is quite fitting for him
>>5742706
After I got an airbrush, it only took me one model before I started getting good.
I work a slow desk job so I spend a lot of my work day researching new techniques and stuff
>>5742722
For Chinese knockoffs they are pretty decent.
The kv1 + kv2 turret cost me around 250. Compare to the Tamiya kv2 at around 1000 id rather get the kit and make it myself
>>5740905
That case is one from Trumpeter, about 15 Euros and absolutely worth it, although the ceiling is a bit low (no 2m antenna for me)
I had to go and do some stuff and couldn't do much this weekend, so the Ferdinand is just washed with water and soap and waiting the primer coat. This delays the schedule I had for him but whatever
>>5743294
They look quite good, in fact I'm thinking of buying their king tiger. It's one of my dream projects but that sweet tamiya 1/16 full equip doesn't come cheap (350€~), but these ones seem to be workable as a base. Also
> cost me 250, 1000
What currency is that in €/$, is it much?
And did you receive the hull in the end?
Also will you do them swappable or go with kv2.
What scheme do you have in mind? Decals in 1/16 are almost nonexistent but you can always do some with illustrator and special paper, in case you want some slogans that always look nice or perhaps hand painted
>>5743299
I should get some of those, between the lack of space and the dust everything is coated with a "grey filter" of dust. Also the sturmtiger has a lot of detail, are you planning a reloading diorama or something like that?
>>5743453
Australian dollars. it probably ended up around 250-300 for both the full KV1 model, and the Torro KV2 turret.
It's Monday currently, I was supposed to have the KV1 by Thursday or Friday but I'm hoping it's just a little late.
Just going to make it a KV2. I much rather the KV2 to the KV1, it's just RC KV2s are so ludicrously expensive. The HL KV1 comes with BB gun, smoke generators and sounds.
I don't have anything in particular in mind for painting or decals. I'd just like to load it up with some oil drums and do some weathering. Whether I add any other stuff I guess just depends.
And with the Heng Long, you can make them entirely metal which I think the Tamiya ones are? I would just prefer to do that, so I can buy it piece by piece and not spend a lump sum on a metal tank.
Any improvements needed for this figure? 1/72 and tiny as fuck
Mostly details left now. I have zero motivation to assemble the airplanes though.
>>5743453
Yup, I have an engine repair crew and some field commanders.
It'll be an "after the battle" Diorama.
>>5743919
EEEEEEWWWWWWWW
>>5744370
what?! what was that? WHAT HAVE I MISSED?!
>>5744378
someone came on a tank
Primed and preshaded with black primer, my airbrush kinda went "oh I see, some fine lines you got there. It would be a shame if I were to go crazy..." But as is just to enrich the base color a bit I don't mind. The barrel is what worries me, despite the putty and sanding it's still crooked and looks a bit awkward, I'm thinking of buying an aftermarket one, but I rather not because those funds are for the next project.
More LED questions: Id like 8 flashing LEDs in a landing pad for a diorama. Is a flashing circuit simple? Is it small enough to be easily concealed?
>>5745050
Here's one with a 555 timer, not mine the schematic, but I've use it in some projects if the arduino wasn't available (it's even easier with arduino but for what you wanna do it would be absurd). Change the capacitator value and led resistance to obtain different blinking paces. There are other ways to obtain a blinking led but this is one relatively easy and cheap, you will need a breadboard to solder on also. And always check if everyting works before putting it inside, if you have a test breadboard use it to see the blinking and how many leds can you feed. Also try not to solder the 555 directly and buy it a socket so you don't burn it while soldering and be easily replaced
>>5744380
Was it a cute tank?
>>5745150
Panzer II
>>5745150
It was a panzer II, so yeah
>>5745206
The fact that he hadn't done any weathering or shading was much worse than the cum. It was just a sloppy job overall.
>>5745210
Well desu I don't own an airbrush so I couldn't do any shading. Also there are some battle scars. Pic related, non soiled tank
>>5745418
Obviously this was taken before I had the chance to apply the decals
>>5745418
Why did you cum on the tank? Are you some kind of sex offender?
Im gonna shoot yall
>>5745482
those damn nazis had it cumming to them
>>5745482
Same reason you'd cum on a girl I presume.
Is there any way i can make custom white lettering on transparent decals
Tamiya 1/48 Dingo.
>>5746627
>>5746627
>>5746628
Of course, I only notice that its covered with dust and hairs AFTER I take the photos.
>>5746630
Man I swear that I thought that was some next gen 3D printing!
>>5746657
Here it is compared to the Tamiya BA-64
>>5746658
Whats the next kit on your list? another 1/48 armored car from tamiya?
>>5746661
I want to buy their new Humber, but I have a lot to work on at the moment.
Pic related, it's the meng kit
>>5746664
I'm really happy with how the tracks turned out.
More progress on the Ontos.
Still needs a matt finish as this thing is way too glossy right now.
This is my 1st time painting figures and I have no idea how to make them look not like they have demon eyes and how to make proper shading.
i usually hang out on /tg/ so i have a dickton of models. Anyway here is a recent tank i did (Tiger II). Didnt even take me that long to paint. Tracks were a bit difficult but once i found out you can use painting tape to hold them in place it was ace.
I also have 3 cool 1/144 scale SU-24 hinds and 2 bolt action armies (ww2 wargame)
>>5747069
On 1/35? Fuck that.
Just drybrush black or dark brown over them. Dont paint the eye.
I have a bunch of pics, so I'll drip feed them I think
Finally finished the B-29, now it's on to the zerstorer diorama
>>5747230
Nice work, although you could clean up the vision ports a bit (there appears to be some flash)
>>5747202
If you have a small enough brush, a magnifying glass if needed and the patience of a maniac, it is possible.
I've done it myself, but there's still room for improvement. On some figures a dark accent would be better tho.
>>5746991
wtf is that driver so happy about when his job is murdering children? everyone has parents or is he just a typical american racist?
>>5747021
Is it brush painted? Looks nice. Show us your Hinds.
>>5748587
>he wouldn't be happy killing little Vietnamese shits
Heads up:
https://www.dersockelshop.de/sturmpanzer-iv-early-with-interior-1-35_tristar_tr35040.html?sPartner=sCampaign454
+ Code: tri35040
gives you 60% off for that kit. Shop is based in germany though, but maybe thats an interesting deal for some of you.
>>5749041
Already got that from an offer earlier, like 20 euros
Looks like a decent kit with mediocre instructions. Lotsa PE, clear parts and rubber for the road wheels plus a rifled slidemold barrel.
Good deal if you ask me.
>>5749041
>Model costs 13 euros
>15 euro shipping
Fuck this
>>5749108
You still save 3€ :3
It really sucks though.. if anything, the fucking EU should fix the shipping prices.
>>5749109
Germany should fix it's shipping prices. It's outrageously expensive to ship from Germany
>>5749114
>from Germany
Its fucking expensive IN Germany as well. If you want a tracking number you have to pay 7€. Usually ordering from a "free shipping" seller from china/japan is cheaper than ordering from a german store like the one above if you can't get over the 50€ pricetag for free shipping.
>>5749119
DHL and FedEx charge out the ass
Just got a Hasegawa 1/72 starfighter as my first model. Are there any good silver paints (preferably acrylic) for handbrushing, or should I go with one of the alternate colour schemes?
Hand-brushing a bare metal finish will only ever lead to disaster. I suggest you at least pick up a rattle can silver spray, such as Tamiya AS-12 Bare Metal Silver.
I'm going to build the Aoshima R32 Skyline soon and I realised unlike the previous kit I built from them it does not come with window masking sheets for the black borders. Any ideas on what I could use so that the painting will be neat? Thanks!
Doing fiber optics for the first time. Cant take a pic eith it lit up just yet but it looks amazing
>>5749947
Tape over window, use a brand new xacto to cut the tape. Use lots of future before, during and after
>>5749885
The Ammo of Mig acrylic metal paints might be alright for touch-ups, they look realistic on small surfaces at least.
>>5748752
Sorry took a bit to respond. Yes the Tiger is brush painted with vallejo tan and then vallejo olive for the stripes. I mucked about with Sepia shade, Black Shade, and BasicRust (train series - 73001). Didnt even take that long!
Attached a picture of the hinds. Let me tell you this was a fucking NIGHTMARE. My spray can basecoat was chemically fucked and the red wouldnt stick and kept pooling. Anyway, i painted each with a slightly different black pattern and just generally had some fun. You can also see some of my ww2 british infantry i painted.
Also you guys should consider dropping by in /tg/ >>>/tg/catalog which has tons of model pics and discussions!
>>5749885
Vallejo silver or gunmetal and get yourself a blackwash as well. You will be AMAZED at how good it looks with almost no effort. Protip: Paint the model black before applying metals.
>We heard you like cutters so we lined the whole damn ship with them
Finally got all the lifeboats and cutters in place but 80% of them will probably fall off by themselves.
>>5748025
That thing is pretty huge. Where are you going to keep it? Hang it from the ceiling?
>>5750010
Is that an A-Wing cockpit?
>>5751135
It sure is an A-wing cockpit. Doing a hangar dio with lighted ships
>>5749903
>Hand-brushing a bare metal finish will only ever lead to disaster.
http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235000047-tamiya-148-republic-p-47d-thunderbolt-bubbletop-brush-painted-nmf/?
Done with the pattern. I dislike it a lot and also looks grayish and not green. In insight I should done it with a brush and give it a harder edge and lesser blobby appearance and smaller scale. Well whatever, what I wanna do is the summer weathering that is something I've never done
>>5748025
Did you do that sweet a-bomb?
>>5746991
>those eyes
Not even the dead can know peace. Also some rain marks and Dust would look quite sweet in my opinion
>>5750010
What model is that? Something from Star Wars?
>>5750549
They look good for the scale. I wanted to do some wargaming but all my friends that used to play Warhammer fantasy soon realized the money sink that it was and left for dead all the buying and painting related games (pre age of sigmar fuckery luckily for them). And in my area nobody plays anything or sometimes Warhammer 40k but nothing else so I'm out luck... Or perhaps not because "static" scale modeling is more chill and rewarding
>>5751135
It's got around a 27 inch wingspan if I remember, we stuck it on our upstairs pinball machine.
>>5751320
Little boy is prepped and ready, im gonna try to do fat man next, my only issue is the lack of color pictures of it. If my sources were correct, it had a sort of washed yellow color with bright red sealant around the seams
>tfw 93% humidity
Feels like everything takes ages to dry.
Now that has dried the spots look greener, weird
>>5751542
I always imagined them black or a very dark color, but the Fat man is like you said but with a black paint over the red primer (as seen on the vid) but the little boy is on b/n and just looks black or olive drab.
https://youtu.be/pXD_fzrcE20
>accidentally bought white primer instead of black
>have to paint everything black before I can give it the color I want
>it starts looking more and more like a THIN YOUR PAINTS-tier fuck-up
C-can I fix this? How do I make things with a white basecoat not look like shit
Still awaiting my RC KV1.
In the mean time, doing some thinking on what I want to do with it. The KV2 turret is actually the captured Panzer KV2 so it came with some extras like jerrycans and those little cylinder things that sit right at the back.
I'm thinking of using those parts to hold some stereotypical Russian things, like oil drums and useless rusty metal.
I might have to lose the BB shooting as well, unfortunately. It has the panzer cupola on it, which I'll need to take off to make it Russian. Though it's essentially the same tank, I never really liked the idea of captured tanks so I'd like to keep it as close to the original KV2 as possible.
>>5751995
Use an airbrush.
>>5751700
Little boy just painted a flat black, fat man is gonna take a bit more work cus I've run out of flat black paint, I've only got aerosol cans of it left
>>5751568
where do you live?
>>5753200
Netherlands. When I hang something out to dry, it's still wet the next day.
![adda674d3c[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/zukowY8.jpg "adda674d3c[1].jpg")
At this point I think the repair is beyond my ability, I'm unable to obtain any replacement parts for the model, but worst of all it's preventing me from properly fitting the deck to the chassis. (Don't worry, it's not glued on yet.) The only options I'm considering are just straight up cutting the entire piece off a-la the LoB in the corner, or just getting a new kit and butchering this one for spare parts.
>>5753950
Howd you do that?
>>5753972
I bought from Amazon.
>>5753950
Cut it off and pretend it's battle damage or repair the cut with plastic sheet.
>>5753950
Cut it off, scratchbuild new corner
Done with base paint. I think
>>5754257
If he can't repair a little cut like that, how do you expect him to scratchbuild anything?
[wip intensifies]
>>5755074
Pretty fucking nice
>>5755074
What scale?
>>5753950
Battle damage. Scratch it, and paint it as if it was burnt or something.
>>5753950
Syrian T-72s look worse.
>>5753950
2/2
So I fucked up and got some thin cement seeped out between my finger and a painted+gloss-coated surface leaving a very shallow fingerprint mark.
Can Tamiya polishing compound fix that?
Camo is about finished, now I'm moving on to fixing fuckups and detail painting.
How does one paint a shell impact (currently painted in migs chipping color)?
Almost done.
>>5755990
Looks sweet. Interested to see how it looks with the lights turned on.
Prowess on the Ferdinand is slow and not even pic worthy, but tomorrow I think I'll have it ready for the weathering process
>>5755461
Your main problem from what I can se from the photos is that the damage in the piece has destroyed part of the toolbox, not just fender (which would be easier to fix). So if you cut it down or repair the toolbox atleast is a matter of how good you are with putty and plasticard. On the bright side is not the right side with the fuel tanks, as some damage like yours there would only be for a destroyed/burned one. Also era blocks don't blow away half a fender, they leave a superficial mark on the paint or blow away the plastic sideskirt (which tend to fall off themselves quite often). If I were you I would chop it off and try to simulate a bit of the destroyed fender in a mine/IED related damage perhaps
>>5755633
Looks really good. It depends on the type of projectile:
HE would leave a "splash" of chipped paint and slight burns, maybe cracked armor
AP non penetration curls the metal of the armor, so depending of the "age" of the hit it would look shinny steel with a slight burned halo of the energy transfer into heat. Older ones like rusted scratches. But overall little damage outside the deformation
HEAT leave a clean little hole and a burned "star" pattern around the impact area, depending of the warhead the star will look bigger or more compact
HESH is like the HE but with a totaly clean round flat impact peeling the paint looking shinny steel/black
Pic related of different types of shells on a tiger, shame is on black and white. Also the look I've described is based on my research of modern ammo (only color pics I can find easily of this subject ) and other people models
Also here's a quick source, as each impact is unique you can paint it however you like as is your model
They are sometimes useful
https://m.reddit.com/r/DestroyedTanks
How do you cut/shape clear plastic canopies?
>>5756320
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLReisIoXKg
>>5756334
No, I just want to separate a single canopy into two pieces without cracking/fucking it up.
>>5756147
Thanks for those useful tips anon, I'll look into it today and we'll see.
Just opened the zerstorer
>472 pcs
may God have mercy on me
i'm going to sell these on ebay soon but i'm kinda lazy and creating tons of auctions is annoying. If you want one of the kits it saves me creating an auction. I won't ask crazy prices, but the stuff has to go since i'm moving i kinda need to reduce my stash. I'm from Germany, so keep shipping cost in mind.
The Fujimi Yamashiro is finally 100% done (I think). The microscopic decals for the reconnaissance airplanes just kept falling of, as expected, so in the end I just painted them on.
>>5757302
The whole fleet.
>>5757305
No not really. They aren't fixed so I just wanted to try posing them in different positions.
When it comes to ERA-equipped tanks, do you paint the tank itself before applying the ERA, or is it just as fine to paint after such?
>>5757278
Give us some prices
>>5757445
I was thinking 15EUR+shipping each, but if you would take more than one we certainly will find a good price.
Send me a message if you are interested in something
>>5756929
Buck up. I'm currently building a Trumpy T-72BA that has around 1400 parts. 400 of those are track parts alone.
>>5757799
I intend to. The most I've ever done was 130 pcs on the 1/72 dragon Apollo 10 module
>>5757472
The price seems good. How much would the shipping to Lithuania be? I know it's a bitch to ship from Germany.
>>5758282
Up to 2kg costs 9€ from what i found on the DHL page.
>>5758481
Are there any other delivery services that charge like 5-7€?
>>5758600
I suppose i could send 1 kit (so its not to big/heavy) as "big letter" for like 5€ but that would be without the security a parcel has.
>>5757278
I've just had to get a shit tonnes of bike locks/ chains/shed locks/security hasps etc etc because of thieving dickheads so i don't have much cash to spare ATM or I'd have that ausf.h, hetzer and the 38t right now
>>5758613
Eh. I could spend 20€ at my LHS. I'm saving for Tamiya's sharp pointed sprue cutters.
I hope you can sell those kits.
Sorry for the trouble
>>5758974
Yeah I need to learn how to take proper photos as well as find a decent background. My current apartment is pretty small and filled with stuff so I don't have any clean surfaces to use for photo ops. I'm thinking about getting a Yamato for my next model and I'm definitely getting some photoetch for that one. I regret not using any for my previous ships but I was too much of a chicken to spend money on photoetched parts before I was used to 1/700 scale ships.
>>5758996
I hope you realize that you can get side cutters with that shape for a quarter of the price of the tamiya tool?
https://www.amazon.com/Eurotool-XTL-0048-Cutter-Pliers-Jewelry/dp/B002SZVE8M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1467060797&sr=8-2&keywords=fine+side+cutter
>>5759514
>amazon
weak
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Good-Quality-Durable-Wholesale-Price-Red-Diagonal-Beading-Cable-Wire-Side-Cutter-Cutting-Nippers-Pliers-Jewelry/32283804801.html
Still no sign of my HL KV1 so I requested a refund and eBay is giving me one.
Going to use the money to buy a KV1S and put the KV2 turret on it. I like the idea of a sort of prototypical faster KV2, but it was mostly an accident because I didn't realize it was a KV1S instead of the regular one. it doesn't bother me too much though
>>5759914
Shit, what a shame. But as long you get some tonk all is good
Finished this BMD-2 from Ace today. It's really tiny in 1/72 and not the easiest kit but worth the effort (like all older Ace kits)
So I've been sticking to tamiya kits for the most part and my only experience outside has been an italeri berma 3 and a dragon panther II ( Which had some of the worst tracks I've ever worked with). Can anybidy recommend me some non-tamiya 1:35 kits? I can work with any nation but I prefer PZ III OR PZ V along with some russian tanks. Thank you
Almost done. Wanna put it on a white background for pics but theres a fiber optic cable coming out the bottom and its making it difficult
I really need to get back to work on my Albatross.. and glue that MLG door on the Mustang.
I need tools, lol.
And a close up of the Albatross
Working on a Kuma-class right now.
>>5762507
Post pics of mustang
>>5762672
why even bother at that scale.
>>5763027
counterpoint: why not?
So I got the clear coat on and drybrushed the Zimmerit a bit.
My question is where the Balkenkreuz should go, either as shown (centered in the left half of the surface) or a bit further up (in the upper left corner next to the lifting hook).
What do you recommend?
>>5763269
looking at reference photos, it seems to go all over the place for different vehicles, and some don't even have it. I guess just do what you think looks right.
>>5763269
As >>5763295 said, the majority seemed to go around without them at least on the sides. I’ve only found one reliable photo with one on the side (pic related), but if you want to be sure its book reading time. Perhaps on the back of the casemate they had one always, but being a rare afv in the battlefield i guess in general it was up to the crew how to paint/mark them
>>5763295
>it seems to go all over the place for different vehicles
Crews painted it onto the vehicle themselves. If you aren't recreating a certain vehicle of a certain battle then you can do whatever you want with that cross.
>>5763269
That looks nice anon, nice to finally see it nearly finished.
>>5763027
>>5763240
What scale is that? Has to be smaller than 1:700 from the looks of it.
>>5762507
>>5762505
These look really nice.
>>5761553
Really nice work here anon, especially the faded red tones. Maybe tone down the pre-shading on the white just a little tiny bit though, then it's perfect.
>>5759112
That looks better. You should get some daylight light bulbs for better lighting though, at least 100W equivalents.
Prowess on the Ferdinand is slow but steady, and I have to admit that the tracks are the part which I spend more time and that looks better of the entire vehicle. Those decals were THICK and brittle, and they stand out from the surface. Once I repair the fucking barrel and repaint it, because the seam was unacceptable and is generally misshapen, I’ll do 4-5 coats of glossy and satin varnish hoping to make the difference of the surface and the decal stand out less. But I’m not quite sure about this as varnish tends to coat everything evenly so it could be worse…
>>5763592
If you did like I said in >>5763313 put a lot of micro sol/decal fix because decals on zimmerit are always a shitty combination. Also the dots are made freehand with the airbrush or with a mask? They look quite good
>>5762507
Looks really good, wood is always difficult to paint and the level of detail is remarkable. Have you thought of doing a gotha bomber with the “hexagonal” pattern? That would look awesome. Btw I also have that mustang in the same scheme in 1/72 hahaha
>>5764228
Also I’m planning the next model to do despite having the chieftain already, which I’ve bought like it would be the best model ever but now I don’t really feel like building it. And paint it however I feel like it. I made a quick list:
E-100. From trumpeter with workable tracks and a PE set. Make something like the box art
Su-122. Miniart, I’ve never done interiors and this kit looks really fine. The only one in the list I would do “seriously” and historically researched
Panther f. Dragon, expensive as fuck but I love the german afvs of the end of the war and “what if”. Ambush pattern with mismatched parts/salvaged
Type-95. Either the Dragon new ones which are relatively expensive or the old Fine molds one which is cheaper and wouldn’t mind to mess it up. I saw one done by Mig Jimenez in grey with navy SNLF markings and I would do something like that. I know they weren’t painted in grey and had the army patterns but I like it that way, also there is a picture of one in Sasebo in 1945 that looks painted in a light monochrome color, but I think that it was khaki or similar but leaves it open to speculation.
>>5764235
T-55 AM. From Takom, it’s not too expensive and I like the t-55s with upgrades. I would paint it in some invented pattern with the colors of the “british berlin brigade” or grays depending on how much paint I have around of one or another.
SKODA PA-II "Turtle". Takom, I want to do something straight from a Miyazaki movie, red and grey or bright green and blue in some wild scheme.
SA-15 "Gauntlet". From Panda Hobby, a brand I’ve never worked with but it looks really good. I’m not sure but I’m thinking of something Syrian or Ukrainian conflicts, even if they weren’t/aren’t deployed in those theatres.
T-90MS. From tiger model, another brand I don’t know but also looks really detailed and well engineered. The tank is pure russian sex despite being for designated poo forces.
JGSDF Type 60 SP 106mm Recoilless Gun Model B. Fine molds. I like it as it’s small and weird and the only vehicle with recoilless rifles apart from the Ontos. But finding this outside Japanese stores is impossible right now and the overall cost of shipping and customs might be too high. Tiger pattern like those planes of the NATO Tiger Meet or USA Vietnam afvs.
And the poll that I will post also in other forums and check it when I finish the ferdinand
https://www.strawpoll.me/10625919
Feel free to talk me out of the selected ones or pick up others.
>>5764113
Damn 1/700 is really tiny then, I've never built anything lower than 1/350 though I've been tempted to get some larger ships in 1/700 since they're so cheap.
>>5764228
Damn, that camouflage looks top notch anon, really nice work on that. I think I built the same kit a few years back, started painting but never finished, still, sitting on my shelf just waiting to be weathered or something. As you can tell, my airbrush job on it was fucking awful.
>>5764326
1/700 is half the scale of 1/350, so battleships and aircraft carriers are give or take 12" long, and light cruisers like the Kiso are 8-9". It's a really nice scale because you get to build things that nobody makes in 1/350, like the Pearl Harbor battleships that aren't the Arizona and other more obscure things like the Japanese seaplane carriers or merchant marine vessels.
The only downside is that a lot of the kits (at least from the Japanese manufactuers) are fairly old. The Kiso is a 1974 mold, although I think some of the smaller parts (AA guns, etc.) were remolded in the early 2000s.
I dont use white too often so i am not sure this is normal or not.
I just went through 1 and a half can of tamiya ts-27 matt white over mr surfcaer 1200 gray.
Is it normal for the color still look this gray (off white)?
>>5764228
I put them on the superstructure for better effect. I used Set/Sol and the decals were very cooperative.
For the dots, I used a piece of plastic sheet into which I drilled a 1mm hole. I fixed some plastic tubes to it so that it has some distance to the surface and sprayed the dot with my airbrush.
>>5764469
white can take a few coats to cover.
secondly, in terms of paint and scale, white should actually be off white to be realistic.
>>5759879
pffff......
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171808377357?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
>>5764795
erh that could be overspray. its a term for when the paint particles dry and clump together before they've hit the surface so you don't get a smooth later instead it looks rough.
u did it with rattle cans. perhaps you held them too far away from it.
im not expert in this subject.
>>5764469
It looks like there's a lot of overspray causing that rough texture. How far away did you hold the rattlecan when spraying?
>>5765282
About 1 feet around away. Is that too far?
I am having a hard time with white.
I ended up getting both ts 26 and 27 last night hoping to get a chance to play around them, try to experiment .
>>5765701
IIRC 10 inches or so is the recommended distance, so you might want to try going a little closer, especially if it's hot where you're painting.
Also, was that regular white paint, or specifically white primer? Normal white paint is pretty much translucent, and requires multiple layers before it covers. White *primer*, like Tamiya's Extra Fine Surface Primer (IIRC that's the name) covers better, but you'll need the regular paint on top.
Everyone has a hard time with white paint unless the plastic is white to start with, and anyone who claims differently is bullshitting you.
>>5765736
It's ts27 Matt white over Mr. Surfacer 1200 grey.
I guess the white is just not enough to cover the grey. I will try to use a white primer next time. At the moment I should do something about the dustyness.
Not sure what I can do beside remove the thing of paint with thinner and do over. But it seems to be such a hassle to redo the stuff.
>>5765701
>About 1 feet around away. Is that too far?
too fucking far. the nozzle should be no more than 5 inches from the model.
[wip intensifies part deux: i'm not pleased with colors]
>>5766862
>i'm not pleased with colors
so what are you gonna do?
>>5766935
nothing to be honest
>>5766862
Are you using somekind of a flesh tone paint set or are you mixing colors yourself?
>>5766862
My only criticism is that from the image it looks like some of the lower eyelid is painted white and could do with a light touchup.
I have a tank that needs washing+decals and i want a matte finish
Do i need to apply a gloss varnish in order for the wash and decals to flow/adhere well? Or can i just use matte varnish?
>>5767282
Always use a gloss coat under the decals, or they'll look like crap due to microbubbles under the decal film. Also, a wash will smear on a flat coat, rather than flow, yes. So, gloss coat, decals, gloss coat, wash, flat coat. If you want to do it properly.
>>5767201
if you are talking about his right eye, it's just light reflex. truth is i mildly fucked up painting eyes and i need to redo them.
>>5767024
i used brown sand(vallejo model color) then cork brown(vmc again) leaving some of the previous in deepest recesses, then reikland fleshshade wash from games workshop on all skin parts, then cork brown again leaving areas where wash settled most and finally mixes of cork brown with iraqui sand(yep, you guessed right, vallejo) ending with pure iraqui sand.
i really need to improve this recipe to avoid fuck ups like with eyes. i think that removing wash from equation would do the thing.
>>5766862
You said the figure is 54mm in scale so that's about 1/35, right? That's pretty good.
Foliage is on its place, front end of the ship is attached too.
Rear end is still adjustable to better position if needed, I think the position is pretty good atm.
Deadline is first half of September, Theres small hope I can make it.
>>5767282
Gloss coat>decals>gloss coat to seal>washes/weathering
When youre done put a finishing matt coat over the whole thing
>>5767681
>>5767687
Thanks for the compliments, I can still totally fuck it up in the "adding water layers"-phase or "making waves with Vallejo water effects"-phase
>What's the deadline for?
Wife´s birthday, she is into ships and shipwrecks for some reason.
Im thinking about starting more ship models, between these three I already have in my stash:
>Plamax 1:350 Shimakaze with 1:20 Shimakaze figure from Kancolle.
>Trumpeter 1:700 Pittsburgh, looked like a nice kit.
>Dragon 1:700 Bismarck, wife already started this, but she gave up on it (too much for a beginner she says)
Here´s a Tirpitz in 1:700 I already managed to fuck up in painting phase.
>>5767770
>she is into ships and shipwrecks for some reason.
Well, that's one way to make sure the missus lets you keep buying stuff for your hobby...
>>5767770
Ships are great. I'm working on an Academy Indianapolis in 1/350 right now.
I'm planning on buying Tamiya's new Yamato in the near future, alongside a pontos upgrade set once I finish up the Indianapolis.
>>5767787
I really want some more 1:350 ships, but im running out of space, I already have Trumpeter 1:350 Liberty Ship and it´s already taking too much space in my small living room cabinet.
Thats why I bought the Shimakaze kit I mentioned in >>5767770 ,destroyers and such I can take in scale 1:350, but I can never imagine battleship or carrier in any scale bigger than 1:700 with show space I have atm.
I'm trying to get back into plastic crack after not doing any modeling for the past few years due to some hand tremor issues, any tips?
Going to start back in with a Tamiya sd.kfz 222
>>5767803
You need
>Sponge
Anything works, the one you use to wash your dirty neckbeard for example
>Acrylic colors of your liking
To color the sponge into tree colours.
>Scissors
To cut sponge into tiny mess
>Iron/copper/aluminium wire
To make happy little treetrunks.
>PA glue
To glue your selfmade flocking into selfmade treetrunks
For more information, check here and improvise from that
http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=57462&start=20
>>5736805
yous need to find some infantry on the same scale and bury them knee deep in that shit.
>>5767828
Thank you my good sir.
