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WIP - painting/converting/sculpting general
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MOTIVATE ME Edition

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
https://mega.co.nz#F!Wl5DAbCb!TYxZG4CgX_x-NJu7JBwbZQ

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
[YouTube] How to Magnetize a Tyranid Carnifex (embed)
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg (embed)

>Stripping Paint
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Ventilate, motherfucker
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Previous thread:
>>48163825
>>
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Since i cant find a good servitor model i decided to do one of my own, i will attach the chainsword once the greenstuff can has hardened enough to support the weight.

i just need to find a damn servo arm now. Halp
>>
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Asked last thread, but too far toward the end, does anyone know where this model is from?
>>
>>48183838
also, what base the servitors use? 25mm?
>>
>>48183879
Limited Edition Infinity model from Corvus Belli? Am guessing here.
>>
>>48183889
yes
>>
>>48183879
Limited edition Druze shock team.
>>
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AL tactical 1 of 60 to nail down the scheme.

Hopefully things will get cleaner as I go through them
>>
What brand of rattle can can I purchase that replicates the Privateer Press primer rattle cans and their priming quality?
>>
>>48184008
I like the blue. The only thing that really needs improvement are your lenses.
>>
>>48184008
I dig him.
The only nitpick I got is that he doesn't seem to be centered on his base, which irks the ol' autism something fierce.
>>
Anyone have the metallic-car-body Space Marine painting instructions lying around? It was blue-green, started from a silver base...
>>
>>48184166

Bruh
>>
>>48184166
if you know about it how do you not have it memorized it's so simple. literally memorized it without even trying after one read. is this why people don't use google? because their brain capacity is so low?
>>
>>48184106
Yeah I don't trust myself to do proper lens technique so its just white + red glaze.

I'll try to add a white dot to the corner and clean up the edges when I have a better detail brush.
>>
>>48183879
pants-pissers empowerment group?
>>
Is 'ardcoat any good? I got some with a lot of paints I bought, and am noticing my newly painted minis are flaking slightly where I handle them. If I repaint them then 'ardcoat, will it protect the paint?
>>
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>>48184199
>>
>>48184275

It's really thick but it does the job. Perhaps since your models are chipping so badly the thickness might be a benefit.

You should be varnishing your models regardless. I would've given them two light coats of a matte or satin spray varnish before brushing ardcoat straight from the pot on them. Seems a bit overkill. You can also buy spray gloss varnishes which will apply the gloss shell without going on as thickly as 'Ardcoat.
>>
I've been thinking about making a set of Grey Knight Terminators using Stormcast Eternals models with GK Ailettes and Bolters and FW Mk.III helms. My concern is that while they're the height of Terminators, they're visibly less bulky and look work better as true scale Power Armor Marines. Does anyone have any suggestions for maybe a bulky backpack or something that could differentiate them better as Terminators?
>>
>>48183879
If you buy the Infinity N3 Human Sphere rule books, they come with the Druze mini you are showing there.
>>
>>48184008
Just FYI, the kneepad seems to have written XIX, but Alpha Legion are the XX legion.

Sincerely, a Raven Fag.
>>
>>48184275
as the other said it does the job, but if you don't know it's a gloss varnish it will affect the way your model looks.All shiny and wet looking, you might want to hit it with a matt varnish too. Ardcoat only is usually used for gems and stuff that should be glossy.
>>
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>>48184367
Use terminator torsos
>>
>>48184517
Its straight from the AL transfer sheet. they made it so the XX look like they almost connect thanks to the font. I'll have to add a dot of paint.
>>
>>48184595
quiet nice desu
>>
>>48184595

Lower legs are a bit too thin. Or maybe I'm just too used to GW's retarded chunky marine aesthetic. The proportions make for a good cartoon style body where the guy has huge arms and shoulders and slim legs. I can see these being Wulfen if you added fur and wolf stuff.
>>
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>>48184527
>Ardcoat only is usually used for gems and stuff that should be glossy.

It also does a good job of laying down something thick to prevent waterslide transfers from getting rubbed off during play... but then you should go over it afterward with your matte finish to remove the shine.
>>
>>48184864

I agree. I still think they look cool, but they've got the superhero body going on a little bit. I don't think it's necessarily bad, but it looks weird to me.
>>
>>48184890
i phrased that badly, Ardcoat alone shoould be used only for that stuff, of course if you hit it with matte varnish you can throw it wherever you want
>>
>>48184919

I'm thinking of ways to make the legs beefier without too much work, because the results look good enough to be worth pursuing. Maybe adding brass rods to both sides of each leg, sort like pneumatic supports like regular terminator legs already have. Or maybe a green stuff tentacle maker to make a lot of ribbed power cables to add a bigger silhouette to the legs.
>>
>>48184595
They look like a bunch of fucking fairies
>>
>>48184595

I wonder how they'd look with Stormcast or other smaller arms. Or a smaller helmet.
>>
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>>48184972
Check out this dude's hammer.
>>
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>>48184595
>>48184957
>>
>>48185119

SLAVWING
>>
What paints do I use for my wargaming table, /wip/?
>>
>>48185193

Use the cheap hobby and craft store dollar tubes of acrylic. They're too shitty for miniatures but for large tables they're cheap and it's okay if they're thicker than you'd prefer.

If you're pouring sand and glue over your table, you can also mix the sand right into a large bucket of liquid paint and paint that on the table, skipping the whole glue step entirely.
>>
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>>48184595
Dunno, at that point it would just be a terminator with sigmarine legs. I was thinking something more like this but with an armet helm and some way to make him look a bit chunkier.
>>
>>48185575
>some way to make him look a bit chunkier.
definitely need to beef up the legs ot make this look like a space marine.
You could try making a stencil with paper first to get the shin armor right and the cut that out of plastic card and glue it to the legs.
>>
>>48185575
>at that point it would just be a terminator with sigmarine legs

That's just a Stormcast with a Storm Bolter. That's even worse than being a Terminator with Sigmarine legs if the goal was to make a Terminator.
>>
>>48186057
If the goal is to make a terminator, put the sig back on the shelf and use a terminator model instead.
>>
>>48184066
No spray can suggestions for someone in the US?
>>
>>48184275
Also are you using an actual primer on your models?

If resin are you washing them with soapy water?
>>
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>>48184367
I use Stormcasts for all my knightlings. I think they work really well. Pictures shitty but its just an example.
>>
>>48184008
Newfag here, any tips on how you did the leg studs? I'm trying to paint some beakie shoulders for my imperial fists and just painting them silver doesn't give the rounded edge detail, while painted yellow they don't stand out. Any advice?
>>
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Hey, WIP, what texture paint should I get to base my IG? I'm also going to use it to base my future 30k IW as well, so I'd want something that could match them both. Going to use chipped up sprue bits as rocks/pebble on the bases as well to add some detail.

Also, how do I apply texture paint once I have it?
>>
>>48186654
they came "primed" black since I got them secondhand, but I'm not sure if it was primer or spray paint. I spray paint prime my other things and I've never had issues as bad.

>>48184527
>>48184323
So pretty much I should just get a matte varnish if I don't want things glossy, no ardcoat needed? What's the recommended brand/type? Army painter as the other anon pictured?
>>
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>>48187117
Oh, and how do I prime both the models and their arms without having to glue the arms yet, as they'd get in the way of their chests?
>>
>>48187181
There's a good chance they used normal paint instead of primer then.

Unless I know what someone used I typically strip all my second hand stuff to be safe. That and no bastard ever seems to clean mould lines so I's have to scrape a lot of paint off anyway.
>>
>>48187194
Drill into the arm socket and stick them on a bit of wire.

You can then embed the wire in something like a cork tile or an egg carton to spray prime them.
This is also good as you can stick the wire into a cork or wood block to hold while painting the small peices.
>>
>>48187241
Oh, alright then, sounds easy enough!

I'm thinking maybe Stirland Mud for the bases. From the pics I've seen it looks pretty dark, so the sprue rocks would stand out nicely enough.

Also, what colors would I need to paint my Commissar? I just noticed I didn't buy any reds or gold/bronze paints, and I know that I'd also need bronze paints for Iron Warriors as well, which is good to know.
>>
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You guys think this would look good with brass helmets?
>>
>>48187364
For what it's worth, I don't think it can ever look good to begin with. So brass it as much as you want.
>>
>>48186932

Shit. I'm going to have to replace all of their helmets.

Any suggestions? I don't like how Bret helmets look on them. Maybe Empire Knights?
>>
>>48187364

I think they look fine I just dislike the punching daggers they use. Would be so much better with a shield or another axe.
>>
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WIP Battlefortress, giant skull on the front yay or nay?
>>
>>48187424
SKULL ALWAYS GOOD
>>
>>48187424
The answer is, as always, a Deffrolla
>>
>>48187424
Makes it proper orky
>>
>>48187424
The skull is awesome!

But I suggest (if possible) reducing the skull's size so the teeth just barely overlap the front. Then add a Deffrolla like anon above suggested so it looks like the deffrolla is the skulls bottom jaw! Nom, Nom, Nom!
>>
>>48187541
whynotboth-anon is right
>>
>>48187392
Empire knights got a nice variety of heads if I remember. Though it all depends on your taste, they are your dudes after all. I like to stick with the GK heads because I really like Grey Knights and I like to keep some 40k stuff on the models, but even the vanilla stormcast heads are pretty cool (if you dig the iron face thing). I used the Stormcast Paladins for my termies and they've got a large head selection, some of which are really cool.
>>
>>48187424
too bad the skull is so long that it's going to scrap the table and terrain as you move it
>>
>>48187424
Take the front spikes from the trukk at the bottom, take an Eldar Jetbike or two and have them skewered to the front. Teach those knife-eared pieces of shit a lesson or two.
>>
While not really modeling, I did just finish a custom box-tray replacement for Kingdom Death: Monster since the one it comes with doesn't fit both expansion content and sleeved cards.

I haven't sleeved everything, but hopefully the core game with Dungbeetle Knight, Flower Knight, Manhunter, and Gorm content all fits in it while sleeved.
>>
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Working on basing while I build up my skill.

The 28mm were a proof on concept I did a lil while ago, while the 32's in the back are more recent and the style I'll be going for with the rest of my guys.

I'm not sure whether I should go for the lighter green I got on the 28's on the 32's or keep them how they are.

Opinions?
>>
>>48187392
I was planning on using HH helmets for mine, but I'm not sure how well they'd match the designs of the Eternals. Actual GK Terminator helms are probably next on the list.
>>
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Fukkin robots GO!
>>
>>48188406
I love it. Well executed.
>>
>>48188406
That one on the right sure looks like it's ready to do some fukkin
And drill that fucking barrel
>>
>>48184207
W&N, friend. Kolinsky sable size 000 for them details.
>>
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Made this guy yesterday using a rat ogre body and daemon prince bits I had lying around.

I don't play Chaos, but it will be a spare daemon prince I can lend out to anyone who rolls dark aposthesis.
>>
>>48188816
What I said in the other thread where you accidentlly posted this still applies. He either needs a loincloth or a dong between his legs
>>
>>48188828
Loincloth is pretty good itea.
Posted it in the other thread because it was suppose to be a stupid model.

The legs are tiny so he's half the height of a proper daemon prince and terribly out of proportion.
It's like his ascension went wrong, or you know. Leg day etc.
>>
>>48188905
Give him a MASSIVE dong to compensate. Who needs big legs when you have a cock the size of your arm?
>>
>>48188816
>he skipped leg day
>>
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Almost done with my 1st ten man squad of plaguebearers!

You mad Tau fags? I can summon reinforcements for free and you can't. OP?
>>
the hell is this?
>>
>>48189157
Plague on, my brother from another time
>>
>>48189187
is that a servo skull turret with a multi melta behind it
>>
>>48189209
from issue 29 of warhammer visions
>>
>>48189222
>that sawblade
cool shit
>>
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>>48189204
hey that model is really cool. who is he??

Well, i got the get started box, and i have 20 blood thursters... I want to venture into Age of Sigmar, any tips on what i should get next??
>>
>>48189187
Jokaero Weaponsmith, anon.

Space Orangutangs that are allied with the =][=.

They also have a tiny wrist-mounted Heavy Flamer/Lascannon/Something Else.
>>
>>48189187
That's a Jokaero.
http://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Jokaero

Think of them as super smart Orangutans.

Most of the digital weapons in use in the Imperium were built by this species.

They're also one of the very few alien species that mankind is on sort of friendly terms with.
>>
>>48189236
one way you can build a Putrid Blightking, which come in a squad of five and act as a kind of heavy infantry. i'm new to sigmar, and i've only played one game, but i like the models
>>
>>48189239
>Space Orangutangs that are allied with the =][=.
oh god I guess I need them now because I collect Inquisition
>>
>>48189241
>>48189239
In the grim darkness of the far future there's only hypocresy
>>
>>48189236
20 bloodTHIRSTERS? I REALLY hope you mean bloodLETTERS
Letters are the small ones with the dicklike heads, and thirsters are the bigguns
>>
>>48189385
the mutant is an abomination

but if it serves a purpose, we can make an exception

man now i want to make a ratling army with a single commisar to keep them in line
>>
>>48189427
hehe, i meant Blood LETTERS
>>
>>48189385
The Inquisition is nothing if not a highly hypocritical organisation, all branches of it. So that's not surprising.
>>
>>48189385
jokaero aren't sapient

They're basically used as beasts of (technological) burden.
>>
>>48189469
>Aren't sapient
>Build digital weapons
I'm getting mixed signals in here
>>
>>48189551
In many ways they're similar to Ork Mekboys.

They have an incredibly advanced instinctual grasp of technology.

The Jury is out on a lore standpoint whether or not they're sapient, but their incredible skill with technology of any kind is not in doubt.
>>
>>48189566
>>48189551
if you guys have ever read the scifi book 'the mote in gods eye' that has a race of small, chimpanzee-like sub-sentient monkeys that excel at modifying and customising weapons, even if they dont understand what they do, like adding a custom grip to a toothbrush
>>
>>48189578
I don't think I've read that (though I've read a fair bit of Nivens work), but I'll add it to my Amazon list for later reference.
>>
>>48189614
i downloaded a pack of the top 100 scifi audiobooks and i just power through em while I paint

i've read something like ten of the horus heresy books that way
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=veLfxJmIzyw&index=3&list=PLEaPE4sLDA7usUQ8psGAENPYZs3XjZgsi

Well, looks like I'm finally gonna paint World Eaters.
>>
>>48189617
>i've read


um
>>
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>>48184166
A wors of advice though. Apply thin glazes. And don't be surprised if the model doesn't look the same.
I tried this technique without much success I'm afraid.
>>
>>48189638
Oh WTF how come that vid never popped in my YT feed?

That would have helped me tons. Not the first time some of their vids don't pop. Thanks for posting that anon. Did he do other legions apart from UM and WB?
>>
>>48189638
>Horus Heresy Mark IV Space Marines box

How did I not hear about that?
>>
>>48189874
Sons of Horus: https://youtu.be/rAbkWeJK8As

Death Guard: https://youtu.be/kMLgofiXBEQ

Word Bearers: https://youtu.be/vPH6qFskBzw

World Eaters: https://youtu.be/veLfxJmIzyw

Oddly enough, they're set to hidden on their channel, you can't see them on there, which is probably why they were not available in your sub-box.
>>
>>48189928
New pre-orders announced today. As in, about 2 hours ago. ;)
>>
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Waiting for paints to arrive in the mail is killing me.

Can't finish my Sons of Horus test model without USMC Tank Crew.
>>
>>48189947
damn, me too
>>
>>48189935
kek
I see they managed to split up BaC into individual boxes and make it a lot more expensive. Scratch that. Jesus fuck. €125 for BaC vs €254
>>
>>48190011
Indeed they did. Getting a box at a discount website retailer gets you pretty close to the price ebay charges for separate sprues, but if you need the equivalent of what's in the box then just getting a box is certainly a better idea.
>>
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A fast painting experiment with an ent. First applied airbrush and then washes. The details, such as the liquen, was added afterwards and then washed.

Now I just want to highlight it, add something to the base and it will end being just a few hours of work. I hope that will help me to learn how to paint other figures faster.
>>
>>48189929
Anon, thanks, you did more than I expected.
>>
>>48190058
As I didn't say it clearly, the brown was achieved with glazes and washes.
>>
>>48184595
>Skipping the leg day
>>
>>48189929
>DG
>Weirdass grey beige colour and not some proper bone armor, while they say in the vid it's bone armour

FFS. I'll use only part of the vid then.
>>
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>>48189638
>mfw I just decided yesterday to buy BAC and start a small WE detachment in pre-heresy colors
>>
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>>48187424
Do this!
>>
I'm late to the party but

>>48178349

How about using the battle for calth's chaplain's mace head as a punch dagger type deal? It's cheap, readily available and it's actually a crozius head.
>>
>>48184008

Ultramarine/10, wrong color scheme. Or right, it is fluffy as they tried to kill Guilliman disguised as the emperor's finest
>>
Hey wip, a friend of mine gifted me a quite nice model, but badly painted, since im not an american i cant use that simple green you guys always talk about, so i made a mix of various cleaners, alchool and degreasers, now the thing is that it ate up a good portion of the primer too, i was wondering that if i reapply the primer over the old patches of primer would give me problems, should i man up and try to remove those patches?
>>
>>48189427

I don't even play daemons or chaos but I have like 15 bloodthirsters from bitboxes and stuff. Are they OP or something? Should I be making an army out of these for shits and giggles? Bunch of guys at the store really love wraithknights and they have nothing to fight fairly.
>>
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>>48190277
You got 15 Bloodthirsters from bits boxes? Impressive...
>>
>>48190277
Well that Goreguard formation is pretty fun, and it requires like 9 of the fuckers (1 named and 8 normal ones).

Special Rules:
All Bloodthirsters must have the Khorne Daemonkin Faction.
Chosen of Au’ggerath: All Bloodthirster models in this Formation within 18″ of Au’ggerath the Unbound have the Adamantium Will and Counter-Attack special rules, and gain an extra Attack.
Terror made Manifest: Enemy units that fail a Fear test caused by a model in this Formation suffer 1 wound for each point the test was failed by, with no saves of any kind allowed.
>>
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man, my phone made this look more like shit than it does in real life.

Still though, I tried something new. What do you think?
>>
>>48190317
Yeah that's what, 1500€ worth of plastic?
>>
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Nothing too exciting, trying to get back into things by picking up models from my bits boxes and painting up some small warbands for Song of Blades and Heroes/Frostgrave.
>>
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>>48190339

These two were pretty fucked up, horrific moldline down the front of the Mino and transfer fuckwittery on jis little friend, but they'll look alright from a foot away.
>>
>>48190277
There is a formation with 8 that you could use.
>>
So that upcoming AoS model with the lady riding the beetle, my plan is to make the beetle a necron thing, rip off the leaves on the lady and make her a tech priestess, and that other one with the bugs will be my c'tan shard of the endless swarm
>>
>>48190277
>15 Bloodthirsters
>from bitboxes and stuff

Those weren't bit boxes, m80. You were robbing stores.
>>
>>48190321
My only thought would be to darken up the mud a little (not a lot) so that the mini stands out just a bit more from the base. Love the goo on the base slowly oozing down the side. The whole thing definitely has the feel of Nurgle.
>>
>>48189849
Anon, that doesn't look like glazing. That looks more like Inks were used as washes. There's a big difference as the inks tend to let a lot more of the underlying metallic color reflect back up to the surface giving a much brighter overall effect.
>>
>>48190468
We don't know what he means by "Blood Thirsters" though. He could just mean he can make count as models with like dragon and orge bits, etc.
Otherwise, you'd need to have at least 8-10 full boxes of BTs to start plus whatever other bits.
I smell an internet fish story BS desu.
>>
>>48190497
A wash goes into the recesses a glaze goes over the entire surface evenly.
Those would be done with a glazing method.
>>
>>48187094
Its a pretty standard Lead Belcher base, nuln oil wash, and runefang steel highlight. I think the important thing is the wash to help make them distinct from the surrounding power armor. If you don't use a wash they are going to look flat.

>>48190244
I can see why you'd say that, as it's a very rich turquoise. I used the FW paint scheme they used on the Alpha Legion BaC task force. Its Stegadon scale green base and a Sotek Green layer with a temple guard blue highlight.
>>
>>48190485
good idea! thanks anon!
>>
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First time pinning and gluing Malifaux figures.

Holy fuck. So tiny.
>>
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Since I can't paint white for shit.

Suggestion for a lighter tone? Grey and red?

I might go for purple, green and gold, since I know I can paint that.
>>
>>48190656
Yeah I'm in the same situation right now, opened up the som'er teeth box and panicked at the amount of parts that goes into one gremlin.
>>
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>>48190689
Right?
Doing the upper right sprue from the Tooth and Claw box.

I love the sculpt, but the scale and mold lines/sprue stubs is making it a pain.
>>
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>>48189249
They are sick models. welcome to the hobby
>>
>>48190321
Looks disgusting in a good way, 9/10 would be scared about getting tetanus when touching
>>
>>48190277

Ah shit, I'm a retard. I meant bloodcrushers. Or whatever those bloodletters on mounts are.
>>
>>48190821
Those are bloodcrushers yeah. Quite different from the Greater Daemons.

You might want to try Chaos Daemons "Murderhorde" formation then, assuming you have enough.

Requirements: Skulltaker or 1 Herald of Khorne, 8 units chosen in any combination from the following list: Bloodletters of Khorne, Flesh Hounds of Khorne, Bloodcrushers of Khorne
Restrictions: None.
Special Rules: Escalating Bloodlust: Units from a Murderhorde add 1 to their Attacks in close combat whilst they are within 6″ of any other unit from their Formation.
Harbinger of Khorne: If the Herald of Khorne from this Formation is a Lesser Locus of Abjuration, Greater Locus of Fury or an Exalted Locus of Wrath, the special rules associated with that locus affect all units from this Formation within 12″ of him. If such a unit is also affected by another locus, they will receive both benefits.
Source: Warzone: Fenris
>>
>>48190878

Christ, reading this I am so glad I stopped playing 40k when fifth edition came out.
>>
>>48190909
You're not alone, I stopped with 5th as well, but I looked up some formations to help answer the question he asked.
>>
>>48190497
They use the GW Glazes, rather than a glazing technique.
>>
>>48190339

w2c that bigger Ringwraith?
>>
>>48190468
>>48190579

Yeah, I meant bloodcrushers. I do have three old metal bloodthirsters though, but who the fuck can transport those without breaking them.
>>
>>48190969
>bloodthirsters
pinning, "enhanced greenstuff" and lots of bubblewrap.

The enhanced greenstuff is the fun part, you can use superglue to accelerate the setting of greenstuff (it sets almost instantly).
The end result is much harder than normal greenstuff. It won't let go, not without some serious force being applied.
I once needed to use a proper chisel to remove the wings of a Winged Horror glued on with that stuff when a mate asked me pin them properly.
>>
What size and kind of wires do I need to pin things with?

And how do I prime a Leman Russ?
>>
>>48191035
And how do I paint the tracks on one as well?
>>
>>48190666
Did you prime these black and then try to paint it white?

Green, purple, and gold SoB just sounds like a bad idea. If you were dead set on using green and purple I'd replace the gold with silver.

I would suggest the more traditional red/black/white/gold, though doing them in any combination you want in terms of which color you want the base armor to be. You could also replace the red with purple and I think you would have a good scheme.
>>
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>>48190587
That's incorrect. Pic related. To achieve the same effect with glazes would take ten times the amount of time and effort it took to do it with a few simple washes. Glazes do NOT typically pool in recesses areas.
>>
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After an absence from the hobby of well over ten years I decided to pick up a Citadel Base Paint Set and a box of Empire State Troops. Half of the paints have formed into balls of gunk and the other half seem to have seperated, is this normal for Citadel paints now or did I just get a shit batch? I remember the quality being higher than this.
Forgive the potato quality but how am I doing so far? turns out I don't remember much about painting minis.
>>
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>>48191057
For some reason white primer reacts oddly with the dream forge plastic. It only turn grainy on that plastic. Everything else very smooth.

Vallejo white primer by the way.

I want to avoid black armour since well I have BT so I'm tired of painting black.

Had a retribution of scyrah army purple, green and gold, worked rather good. Theory colour wise it works.

Basically anything but black as the main colour. White has been a bitch.
>>
>>48191179
The paint definitely shouldn't be dried out, though separated paint is usually fixable with a little shaking.

As for the quality being lower than before, that's somewhat true. Their washes and technicals are pretty great, the metallic paints are pretty awesome as well in terms of coverage and look.

On the painting: the colours look pretty good, by the looks of it you did the base coats and then washed them?
Not bad for a first attempt at all after a 10 year hiatus. The face could use some clean-up, but the rest looks quite neat.
>>
>>48191236
You could try a coat of grey primer (the vallejo canned one is pretty good), a nice neutral coat that shouldn't mess with the colours going on top too much.
>>
>>48191253
Should I try to strip the paint. Since the other 15 only have black primer?

By the way Vallejo white primer is impossible to remove on that plastic. Break fluid, Mr. Muscle, anti graffiti, acetone, detol. Anit graffiti did something after 6 months.
>>
>>48191236
That's understandable. I had painted nothing but Iron Hands before painting the Alpha Legion I am working on now.

Not that I don't love my IH but painting black for so long is definitely boring.
>>
>>48191301
It's not just that particular type of plastic. Vallejo White spray primer is seemingly nuke-proof.

As for stripping the black ones, not sure if that's needed.
If the coat is thin enough the black should be covered easily enough, it might be better, but I don't usually strip miniatures, so I can't really judge.
>>
>>48191301

Yeah, can't fix grainy. Just strip it and prime bone or grey
>>
>>48191301

As long as the remaining primer is smooth and fairly thin, you should be able to either respray them or use brush-on primer alright.
>>
>>48191358
So I should try white and pink again?

Just start with a base of grey. Or dip into airbrush?
>>
>>48191355
Actually the funny thing is. The white primer got removed very easily from resin, metal and GW plastic.
>>
>>48191373

Airbrush with vallejo ghost grey would be ideal, but the general rule for white armor is never start with white. You can't highlight white.
>>
>>48191236
Oh what about red armour, white clothing and orange highlights?
>>
>>48191457
Think I'll try, Purple and Green, with black base coat.
Grey primer, white and pink.
Grey primer, red and white.

If anything I'll get new paints and experience.
>>
>>48191504

For basecoating hard colors like white, grab a large drybrush so you can easily cover large surfaces in multiple thin layers in a short period of time. It's a speedpainting technique but it's great for brush priming and basecoating too.

With white it's near impossible to get thin coats that cover well in one go.
>>
>>48191131
I used GW glazes, following this technique, and I did not get the result in such a short time or as flawlessly. So you're saying anon actually used GW washes and not glazes?

Mmm i'll try again then.
>>
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Almost done with these guys. Need to do some highlighting with the green minerals, highlighting on their robes, and a few touchups here and there.
>>
>>48191592
What about red on black primer?
>>
Is there anything wrong with Citadel primer? Should I use P3 or Vallejo instead?
>>
>>48191794
The GW spray cans are not primer, they're simply spray paint.

The Vallejo and P3 are actual primers and "bite" into the material you spray it on and provide a better surface for your paints to adhere to. Same goes for the Armypainter primers I believe.

So from a priming standpoint those are better as a base than the GW version.
>>
>>48191770
Do a coat of brown first.
>>
>>48188786
how do you drill a slotted barrel?
>>
>>48191842
>>48191770

Depends on how bright you want it really. I use vallejo heavy brown for brighter reds and straight up Khorne red if I want it a little darker, followed by lighter areas of Mephiston red.

Edge highlights should be a bit of an orange tint like wild rider red or if you want it to be more visible, straight up trollslayer orange. Mix with a little medium so you can do easy transitions by starting off transparent and making it less transparent by going over the highest areas a few times.
>>
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Finished the first layer of highlights on my Tzaangor cultist's skin. Now on the the next highlight of Space Wolves Grey.
>>
>>48191179
Looks pretty nice
>>
>>48191241
the clothing has clearly had a base coat, wash, and multiple thin layers built up. Many of the deep shaded folds are completely flat on the model.
>>
>>48192017
nicely done then, my apologies for overlooking the work put in.
>>
>>48189249
Where are the cobblestone bases from?
>>
>>48191892
Since my local store no longer carry Vallejo and game store only carry citadel and I do not wish to wait 6 month for a bottle of paint (third world problems)

Citadel brown? And I wish a bright red
>>
>>48192075

Citadel only has mournfang brown iirc as a base paint which is pretty dark. Try doing a base of khorne red and then a mephiston red layer over that.

How bright are we talking here? Blood angels bright?
>>
>>48192108
Blood Raven red maybe not so bright not so dark
>>
Does anyone have a good recommendation for how to make snow bases? Preferably something I can just go buy, as I'm lazy.
>>
>>48192140

Ah yes, then khorne > ferrari red but GW doesn't make that color as far as I know.

#ff2800 a very orange red

Maybe you can simulate it by layering mephiston with a little fire dragon bright in a very thin layer on top of it?
>>
>>48192203
Knowing my lazy ass, might do brown, red, lighter red, orange high lights
>>
>>48190249
If you're in an imperial country you have access to dettol. The best stripping product.
>>
>>48190909
I'm getting back in after stopping in 5th. There's some fucking bullshit around now .
>>
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>>48190249
Remove the primer, wash with warm water and soap, rinse, dry, then re-prime.

>>48191131
I really wish people would be less anal about this, it's really not hard. He used the products that GW calls Glazes, Gulliman Blue and Waywatcher Green.
>>
>>48191035
A size that's appropriate for the model. I use a ser of steel guitar strings.
>>
>>48191351
Got a mate that has done nothing but black marine armies for the last 15 years.
>>
>>48192378
But GW going against naming conventions is what causes this confusion in the first place.
>>
>>48187424
No skull! It looks mean and predatory without it
>>
>>48187424

Put it up higher and have grots shoot guns through the eyes from the manhole
>>
>>48192378
What should they call paints made for glazing? Watered ass paints?
>>
>>48191664

I always love seeing more cultists, bravo on the alt technique, I pussied out and used the studio scheme
>>
>>48183816
Looking for some advice, I'm new to modeling and recently bought a Land Raider on ebay, model is nice and all, but it is really dusty.

Any good way to dust him off before I take it to battle? Would a damp cloth be okay or would that or Pledge ruin the paint job?

How do you keep you guy on display dust free?
>>
>>48192832
a damp cloth is fine, just be careful not to snap off any spikes or antenna's on the model.

As for what I use, damp cloth most of the time, gentle puffs with a can of compressed air (or airbrush) for small nooks and crannies, just be careful with that.
>>
>>48192832
Damp cloth would be fine for large surface areas and a toothbrush to get dust out of cracks and crevices.

I have no clue what pledge would do to acrylic paint, if anything
>>
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>>48192832
>Pledge

Depending on the exact product, it could literally varnish the model- Pledge with Future Shine has been used by modellers for a number of purposes for years.
>>
>>48184490
only if you had it pre ordered. Now its too late I guess
>>
>>48193036
>>48192986
>>48192962
Thanks! Time to start dusting!
>>
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>>48191933
>Now on the the next highlight of Space Wolves Grey.
And it begins. This one was a tad shaky, but I will rein that in.
>>
>>48190689
>>48190717
The amount of bits doesn't scare me, but how is the fit? Does it require significant mold line cleaning? Are the seam lines well hidden?
>>
>>48190011
But don't you want more near-monopose Contemptors?
>>
>>48190011
So why is the HH tactical squad 39€ while the regular one is 35€?
>>
>>48193174
About at many mould lines as other kits.
They are fucking terrible at cutting up models though. Gap filling everywhere, even on some faces for fuck sake.
>>
>>48193071
You can also use it to provide a smooth base for decals, or polishing clear plastic to a glassy sheen. I love that shit so fucking much.
>>
>>48193340
Because fads and people have demonstrated they will pay it.
>>
>>48193164
Shit, are those gorkamorka shootas? Man I've not seen those in ages. Nice work as usual man.

>>48193174
I've only put together one so far (big dumb lenny), everything fit together well and the mouldlines were pretty large, but so large that in places I actually peeled them off. I'd rather have that than loads of tiny lines everywhere.
>>
>>48190011
>Jesus fuck. €125 for BaC vs €254
It makes the BaC more tempting and people are more likely to buy it even though they wouldn't want/need some of the models in it. It's like with chinashit, you buy a lot more than you want/need since "the deal is too good to pass up"
>>
>>48193424
This.

>hm those HH tactical marines are nice
>but the BaC box involves to much shit i don't need
>I'll pass

>Finally, HH tac squad on sale for itself
>it costs more than the regular one
>fuck it, i'll save a ton of money if i get BaC
>>
>>48193454
Joke's on them, I'll sell the rest of the shit on eBay
>~$15 for captain and apostle
>~$28 for contemptor
>~$30 for termies
>playing $87 for Mk IV
Well shit.
>>
>>48190011
Have you seen how much they charge for the two characters? I mean it's just two plastic models.
That had me go 'nope, fuck you gw'.

Seriously.
>>
>>48193676
All of their character models (which are mostly single pose plastics anyway these days) are around that price. its just a joke.
>>
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Quick question /tg/, does it look like I'm thinning my paints enough, too much, or just right?
>>
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>massive, massive backlog
>actually paint a couple of models
>instantly buy a couple dozen more
>>
>>48191179
> Don't remember much
Anon what you do remember makes you better than well of 60% of the guys posting here. Nice model work so far
>>
>>48193045
Not really. I bought my N3HS off ebay from some store somewhere and they sent the model- didn't even say the model was coming with. You buy it from a store, odds are good you will get the model
>>
>>48193715
Looks fine to me. But 3 coats for the BASE coat seems a little much to me.
>>
>>48193717
Sooo, you're me?

Nice, I'm not alone
>>
>>48192962

>be careful

Just run it under a tap and let it dry, why bother with all this difficult stuff
>>
>>48193715
Why prime with black and then have to do 3 coats of green? Try priming in neutral gray. Do a dark wash over the gray to darken the recessed areas and then put your green on. It shouldn't take 3 coats of a dark staining pigment like the one used in D.A. green to cover your mini. That said, your brush control is good and you're not globbing on thick paint to the point it obscures your details.
>>
>>48193795
Thanks, I was thinking that too. I'm a slow painter anyway but three base coats will take forever. Perhaps I'll try two slightly thicker coats next time.

The paint is Vallejo Game Color, dark green.
>>
>>48193715

You are thinning them enough, but you could be using a large drybrush to apply your wet paint faster.
>>
>>48193717

>massive, massive backlog
>buy a couple dozen Start Collectings and other sets I don't need or will get to in the next decade

Rainy day models, in case the economy goes south and I can't afford them any more.
>>
>>48193404
Thanks man!
They are from the old 1991 (or 1994?) Space Marine Weapon Sprue with Power Sword, Axe, Fist, Plasma Pistol, Bolt Pistol, Hand Flamer, Auto Pistol and Las Pistol.
>>
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>>48192378
>I really wish people would be less anal about this, it's really not hard. He used the products that GW calls Glazes, Gulliman Blue and Waywatcher Green

Hmmm, I can follow GW's incorrect use of terminology like a clueless fucktard, or I can point out the correct terminology. I'll go with option # 2 thanks.

>>48192605
That's the whole fuckin' point! Those are NOT paints made for *glazing*. They're washes - probably ink based rather than standard acrylics thinned medium. Glazing involves taking *standard acrylic* paints and mixing them with an acrylic medium. >>48191131
Pic pretty much spells it out.
>>
>>48194022

I'm not involved in this discussion but Christ, what a pedant.
>>
>>48193914
>>48193944
Thanks. I'll give the grey primer idea a go with my next batch.
>>
Back with coupons, most of them expire tonight or tomorrow though. These do have online codes on them.
>>
>>48193932
I happen to be familiar with VGC Dark Green and it covers very poorly. I usually have to do 3-4 coats on top of black to get it even, and 2-3 on top of white.
You might want to consider starting with a basecoat of VGC Heavy Green, it's amazing. Consistently goes on smoothly and evenly with 1-2 layers regardless of primer.
>>
>>48193045
Still in stock at Wayland Games....
>>
>>48191241
The seperated paint kind of mixes back after a lot of shaking but it begins to seperate after a while and the other is the consistancy of Blu-Tack, so I've been having to use the watery remnants surrounding it. I live in Spain so the heat may have done something to it. I don't know if anyone else living in hot/humid climates have noticed the same?
Yeah the face needs work, I think I'm going to leave it until I buy a smaller brush though. As for the rest I applied a base coat, painted in the darker areas, then did multiple washes of a thinned down version of the darker mix then lightly washed a really thin layer of the base coat and highlighted. the actual model is a bit lighter than the photo makes out.
>>48191976
Thanks.
>>48193727
Thanks, it's been a steep learning curve though. I remember the models being double the size than they are for some reason.
>>
>>48190128
I prefer the grey to the bone colour. Just has a better feel to it.
>>
>>48194233
>>>48191241 (You)
>The seperated paint kind of mixes back after a lot of shaking but it begins to seperate after a while and the other is the consistancy of Blu-Tack, so I've been having to use the watery remnants surrounding it. I live in Spain so the heat may have done something to it. I don't know if anyone else living in hot/humid climates have noticed the same?
>Yeah the face needs work, I think I'm going to leave it until I buy a smaller brush though. As for the rest I applied a base coat, painted in the darker areas, then did multiple washes of a thinned down version of the darker mix then lightly washed a really thin layer of the base coat and highlighted. the actual model is a bit lighter than the photo makes out.

If you're near the store show them a pot, it's quite likely you'll get a new one, paint shouldn't be gumming up when separating, so something's reacting with it.

Sounds like you've already got the basic and intermediate techniques down, keep practicing and your models will make you proud, that's nice work. :)

>>>48193727
>Thanks, it's been a steep learning curve though. I remember the models being double the size than they are for some reason.

Age does that, I too remember models seeming bigger when I started this hobby.

It doesn't help that I also paint Kingdom Death models sometimes, which are much more dainty in terms of scale.
>>
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Posting for feedback, my Orruk Megaboss.

Skin I think is all but done, haven't started on tongue or teeth save for the basecoat.
>>
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>>48193974
Ah okay, I've never been much into filthy imperial stuff and after searching it up they do look surprisingly similar after taking away the magazine.

Have you been casting them or do you just so happen to have a supply of ancient plastic accessory sprues?
>>
>>48194354
those would have been perfect!
I just had a crap ton of the sprues. I never collected Marines myself, but 3 of my friends did at the time and I bought/inherited their armies years ago when they stopped.
Since, I have sold those armies and sprues, but I clipped off all the auto and las pistols for my cultists. I have 10 more.
>>
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back on the saddle
>>
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>>48194566
>>
>>48194584
>Blue-Grey highlights for black
That never looks bad. Good work anon. All I can say is that another wash on the silver part as it looks kind of flat right now.
>>
>>48194584

Why is the black so pristine and the green so filthy and battle damaged?
>>
Is 85 degrees too hot for priming? Should I wait for dusk?
>>
>>48194566
is this some blackshield marine?
>>
>>48194773
not sure actually, is it humid? if not it should be fine
>>
>>48194773

Are you nuts? You'll die if you go outside in 85 degrees
>>
>>48194886

42% humidity. I ask because I just tried a test model and the primer scraped off after drying. Trying to identify the cause.

>>48195080

85 burger degrees.
>>
>>48195274

How many Kelvins or Rocks is that?
>>
>>48195274
What primer do you use?
>>
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Working on the DW:OK Cassius, I think I'm happy with this face, although less so with the photo- once I move I will work on a better light setup.
>>
>>48195298
12 bongs
>>
>>48195311

P3 white, though I have been having the same problem with citadel black and DAP 1698.

Could I be holding the can too far from the model? I have heard that primer can start to dry on the way to the model if it's hot enough.
>>
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>>48188406
What did you use for the shoulder pads?
Thread replies: 255
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