Last thread stuck at 290 for over an hour.
>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here
>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart
>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
https://mega.co.nz#F!Wl5DAbCb!TYxZG4CgX_x-NJu7JBwbZQ
>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA
>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw [Embed]
>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU [Embed]
>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo [Embed]
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/
>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg
>Stripping Paint
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...
>Ventilate, motherfucker
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf
>I am the hammer! I am the point of His spear! I am the mail about His fist! I am the bane of His foes!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JjaYW5Cnr5k [Embed]
1st for WIP maymays
5 deathwatch all ready for washes. And 2 test marines to try out different Hh legions colours.
Still working on this, all the hard stuff is done though.
Decals, gems, and basing left to do, gonna try that new gem paint out and see if it's worth it.
Dis git just won my local area painting competition, go me.
Also better pics.
>>48009265
The irony is that people who put in the (expected) effort aren't the ones that are slothful.
>>48009345
i love that little maple leaf.
>>48009289
top left and middle top look like they have alright flesh, can't tell with bottom left. Anything particular with how you do it? Looks flat but clean, a good wash will really make it great I think.
Sadly the other minitures look eh. Looks like a lot of battle damage or just being sloppy with them, and the top right is meh. Really flat and unthinned. Your Alpha legion is way too metallic blue, really needs a clear coat or wash of green.
Crisp night lord face though, looks really cleanly rounded on the top.
>>48009345
Nice cunnversion boss
For the anon asking about Dettol, it works wonderfully even when mixed 1:1 with water. I've used it with plastic, metal, and resin and it's worked every time.
>>48009381
What?
>>48009522
that was me, cheers!
>>48009544
I would recommend letting them sit in soapy water for a bit after stripping, though. The Dettol can make them kind of ""sticky".
>>48009410
rakarth flesh, dwarf flesh, brown wash, rakarth highlight. The dwarf flesh is an ancient gw paint that just refused to dry out like the rest did.
The top right is going to be really battle damaged, but the bottom left is mangled from superglue and tying to remove his head. I think I might strip them both desu. And you're right about the alpha legion. Everything on the net said blue, green then blue again for washes, but looking at it, it should have been green, blue, green.
Duncan is pretty useful for beginners but he, or rather GW, still do things that bother me so I'm going to link a guy I know who does a good job of showing you what thinning, blending, etc. is suppose to look like.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwfL3sohcuBaxc4wAWOOdiA
The video quality could be better but I haven't found any other paint tutorials so far that show you exactly what its suppose to look like.
>>48009655
Thank you for the tip
>>48009655
https://www.youtube.com/user/SchnauzerFaceMinis
This guy is pretty good for aibrush users, shame he stopped posting videos.
Hey guys heres my first official attempt at a thousand sons aspiring sorcerer, curious what your opinions of it are and if there are any tips or tricks on how i can improve my painting skills, oh swammies of the brush
>>48009908
Put a piece of paper behind the model. Shine some light on it from the front, put baking paper over the lamp if you can.
Then take the photo again, we can give more useful tips the better the photo is.
considering getting back into painting minis, should i invest in pic related as a cheaper alternative to GW?
few things that made me think about giving it a shot was the size of the pots is much better value for money than GW, dropper bottles makes mixing so much more consistent and over all they seem simple like how GW paints used to be back in the day
While these things are swaying me i just want an opinion to see if this brand is complete horse shit or not before i hit the trigger. many thanks.
>>48009969
This. But for starters, learn how to properly thin your paints and work on getting a better base coat on everything. The staff and blue have a lot of blotchy spots and no clear coverage and its hurting your piece.
Other than that, take it slower and work on your brush control some more. There's some spots where the gold has bled out over into the wrong areas.
>>48010008
Never used that brand. How much is the bundle?
I got the Vallejo game colour set. That was 72 paints and probably my best purchase. You want to know you're serious though.
Thanks for the info so far gang, will do, also some of the blotchyness is a bit from the potato cam so next pic will be much clearer hopefully
>>48010058
i'm from Australia, going to set me back about $110usd to get posted over because it's still cheaper than buying on shore.
>>48010099
Me too. Go to bed you shitter.
$110 total? That's pretty good. My Vallejo box set me back about $300. This was about 8 years ago, I found a local seller.
>>48010088
Gorgeous, how'd you learn?
>>48010760
First I painted minaitures. After that, I started with really small alters. For example, expanding the leg of a memnite. The small size allowed me to, since the beginning, practise color matching until the result was absolutely perfect. Then I altered bigger cards.
High motivation is always needed.
I finished this guy recently. I'm quite happy with him.
I'm not sure how to progress now. I can work with basic washing, drybrushing, a little bit of highlight and layer, but I'm still doing easy stuff. Is there some game-changing technic I should look into?
>>48010834
>High motivation is always needed.
Just how high are we talking?
>>48010088
Again; that's a long ass dune
>>48010916
Looks really good m9
The skinks are pretty bright compared to the rest of the model so maybe consider giving some lighter highlights to the scales and carapace plates of the big thing
>>48010957
Enough to completely visualize how the end result will be and to really want to start painting it.
>>48011023
It's perspective. The nearer the dune is, the more visual space the same distance takes. Someone could debate it's still a little long, but not too much
>>48011023
>>48011081
Not nearly as long as this one.
>>48010245
fuck yeah, straya!
i used the google and found out that paint set is nearing the $400-500aud price range, a bit out of reach and to be honest i'd just buy GW paints from black cultist at that price, probably get 100 or so.
Guess i'm just looking for a cheaper alternative than gw that isn't completely shit.
is there a good way to get this speckled effect on something like a necron model? i get the feeling that flicking a brush at it will cause oval shaped splatter that i don't want and poking it with a brush tip won't have the same randomness.
>>48011472
tooth pick lightly touching it or get a fine detail (20/0) SPOTTER brush.
>>48010008
Check your local games stores for deals too, mine sells citadel paints at $4, and army painter and Vallejo for $3 per pot or dropper.
>>48011368
Lots of people seem to like army painter. Maybe get a bottle or two to try before committing to buying.
I went in blind with the Vallejo other than online recommendations, but they turned out to be awesome.
Ultimately you don't need that many paints anyway if you practice mixing. I didn't have that option being somewhat colour blind though.
>>48011686
>>48011700
I have no local games shop, so if i want paints i kind of have to buy them online and if i buy 1 pot and go "yeah these are good" i'm going to have to wait ages to get more due to postage times.
as well as that the price of that kit is much friendlier than buying them by the pot, by the time i get the base colours, inks and other stuff to mix i might as well have bought the $150aud kit.
if lots of people seem to like them then i might take a punt on them, worst case scenario i can just slowly buy GW if they turn out to be bad.
>>48009655
pretty good, but he/you should explain a bit mopre i think.
>>48011888
they can't turn out to be bad, all paints are ok,people just have preferences, you will get used to them, don't worry.(some anon told me their yellow isn't very bright so you might want to add a bright yellow to your order if you plan on using it
>>48011929
that seems like a solid idea, guess i can get that kit and any colours i don't like or feel aren't of good quality i can always replace with the odd GW pot here or there.
>>48011975
also where are you buying them from?
>>48011999
eBay, was gonna get it from an australian site but they don't have the kit and if i buy all the paints individually it'll cost a bit more.
>>48010088
>Llanura
Sorry about the European Championship, Spanish bro
Gonna be painting a white Sanguinary Guard soonaiming for something similar as in the picture, any suggestions for the wing color? I was thinking of Mephiston Red. Black/dark grey won't do
Newish to painting here, thought y'all would like some data I've collected.
Experimenting to see which primer I like the most. My coats weren't the best (I'm still getting used to proper technique), but the results are satisfactory for comparing.
From left to right:
1. Rust-Oleum American Accents 2X Ultra Cover Primer
2. Rust-Oleum American Accents 2X Ultra Cover Semi Gloss
3. Krylon Cover Maxx Flat Black
The Rust-Oleum Primer is a step up from what I used to use, but the black is still duller than I'd like and it's still too matte for my taste.
I love how the Semi Gloss turned out, but I'm worried about how it will sit once I paint over it.
Finally, the Krylon Flat seems to be what I like the most. It's nice and dark with no gloss or matte texture.
What do y'all use?
>>48013472
This is somewhat bewildering to me
>too matte
What do you think the purpose of a primer is?
It's an adhesive for your paint, you want a nice flat even and well... matte surface for you to paint over.
Why the hell would you want a gloss sheen of paint peeking at you from corners and folds in a dark robe catching the light?
So I tried greenstuff (50/50, some times 70% blue part) and the result is too rubbery for my taste. How's milliput? I heard is too brittle to do anything that has details, I also heard that combination of both is (50/50) is perfect.
>>48013260
>red wings
How about silver?
>>48013702
It's more like working with clay. If that's your thing. Better for gap filling.
>>48013702
Well gee, that's cuz your not mixing it right. How do you expect milliput to work if you won't use that properly either?
Generally you should be mixing 60/40 yellow to blue. The more blue, the more "rubbery." Go figure.
>>48013781
I'm trying to clone some stuff, for the helmets the greenstuff was ok, but the left arms (I only have 2 left arms with guns, enough right arms, but I want them with guns in both) greenstuff turned out to be shit, too rubbery and hard as fuck to remove the moldlines. I'm also going to clone a couple of torsos and a couple of bike frontals.
Deldars by the way.
>>48013812
>Read a couple "how to use greenstuff"
>They all say the more yellow the more sticky, soft and rubbery
>The more blue the more stiff, rapid curing, etc
Is this a ruse?
>>48013885
no thats right, when i used to work with green stuff i'd mix more blue for bulk and more yellow for detail.
>>48013885
Don't listen to the other guy
>>48013885
Depends what one means by rubbery. Sounds like you have a different interpretation as the people you are reading.
>>48013928
Don't listen to THIS guy. Especially ass hats that come in with no input. What did he back up? Nothing, just a shit post.
More blue, it is firmer. It also doesn't like to take on shapes either. More yellow, for more detail work, though it is softer when it cures.
More blue in the mix for your bulk work. More green for detail. You would have been better with 70% YELLOW with your bits, you went in the opposite (re: wrong) direction and got bad results.
>>48014003
Pick a rubber band, move it, see what happens, the opposite of rigid or stiff. Yellow gives you that, not blue.
Btw, I'm not even OP.
>>48014065
I don't care what you or I think. It's what that guy and the tut guys are talking about.
If you aren't the one who is asking, then just stay out of the conversation. The only reason for you here is to argue apparently.
>>48013637
Matte=/=flat
You seem to use them interchangeably.
The matte texture has more detail loss and has a less better outcome than something that has a flat texture.
>>48014093
>Several anons already pointed you're the only one understand rubbery as rigid
>Calls others shitposters
Kek
>>48014093
I'm >>48013702
By rubbery I meant soft and elastic, hard to sand and cut the moldlines, similar to gum. I left it to cure for days and still was like a rubberband.
>>48014134
HE said rubbery, I said maybe he got what he interprets as rubbery wrong.
Then I explain the effects of more and less blue and yellow and what he actually desires.
But yeah, shitposting.
Meanwhile...
you talk about elastic bands, argue irrelevant semantics, and provide such wonderful useful posts full of helpful content like "kek."
Good work anon.
>>48009289
Jelly of your AL. My attempts didn't go so well. Truth be told I was looking for a different effect but anyway. Good work on the NL's face as well.
>>48014169
and I quoted a wrong post, this was the one I meant >>48013885
well this thread became a clusterfuck from 0-to-10 real fast
Has anyone ever attempted to make a Black Dragons force?
I imagine most of it would be a vanilla Marines force with the colour scheme, and just the assault squads changed to have blades?
>Putting together figure, plan on assembling the arms later to more easily paint the torso
>Suddenly a giant gap in the right arm appears, forcing me to assemble the arms beforehand so I can fill it with putty
Please God, make it stop
>>48013885
Greenstuff is a ruse.
Use milliput, procreate or fimo with an electric lamp oven.
>>48009289
make sure to post when you're done with them!
been busy with other warhammer stuff (selling some of the shitton of stuff I don't need), but made this guy up last night. Crimson Fist captain I decided to give a second fist because it seemed fitting. was going to read up on various chapters later for ideas on how to make some stereotypical chapter resemblance
hi /wip/ i ahve googled around and the best i could find is Wayland games. Anybody has a good europe based online store to share?
>>48014796
Some BD are reported to be bigger than usual because of their bones growth, others have their geneseed completely going haywire, which results in them mutating and becoming more beasts than men, described as roughly BIG humanoids dragons/lizards.
So there are a few ideas here and there. Read Death of Antagonis if you want to learn more about them.
Has anyone here ever done any papercraft 40k vehicles? Specifically those really nice looking ones from the Russians. Any tips for making one?
>>48015172
i hve read some people who talked about making them and the only advice i learned is throw some vinylic glue to make the paper stronger and use thick paper
Any ideas how to make my second squad of guardians (grey) be distigushable from the ones in the front (yellow helms) paint scheme wise?
Theyre alatioc so blue has to be there.
Sorry for all the excess crap I just recycled a pic from the 40k general
How thin should my paint actually be? 1:1 paint to water? 2:1? 59:1!?
>>48015297
you could give them white faces instead of black, change the colour of their stones, but red works really well there,but i would personally change the trim of the weapon, the black part. Making it white or even yellow really works well in my opinion
>>48015383
it really depends on the thing you need to do in that moment, but generally when you put a thin enough paint on your canvas it retracts slightly, that's how i know i thinned enough, you are overdoing when paint starts moving of it's own volition though, you start going to glaze consistency there
>>48015471
Ah that's a good way to put it. Thank you!
>>48015384
I forgot to mention this but they have high elf heads, im filling in the dents with GS.
Should I try an all blue head?
>>48015172
Don't cheap out on paper and reinforce it all the same
>>48015527
>dents
do you mean the face holes or the round holes? If you are filling the round holes the team should stand out already,if you want to make it stand out even more, why not put a gem in every dent?
>>48015608
I guess I could do that, the dent is deep though. So would a blue helm work better with a big red gem in it? I kinda feel like it would
>>48015650
why would it? then you would end up with full blue models? why would you make them a blue slab? Also itjust came to my mind that blue's complementary is orange so you could make their stones orange.
>>48015779
what the fuck did i do to my post? sorry for grammar.
>>48009226
Hi guys, I'm getting started with making an Alpha Legion army, and I saw this posted up in a previous thread.
I'm kind of a complete newbie at painting, but I really can't stand playing with unpainted models. So I thought this method seemed simple enough.
Though I'm confused about a few things. When pic related says the initial mini is "layered up" to runefang steel, I assume it means to use a separate darker metal color as a basecoat, and then paint it with brighter metal colors until you get to runefang steel?
And for the layering of the washes do you do a complete, thin coat of it and wait for it to dry, then do the next layer or is there some mixing involved?
Sorry for the questions if they are common sense, I just don't want to screw up too badly and have to strip them or something.
>>48015779
Here's a better idea of what I mean, don't forget the skin tone as well
>>48011117
Stilgar, do we have wormsign?
>>48015172
It will take you hours to build and do not use regular printer paper. Get nicer, more firm, expensive paper or the it will be too flimsy
>>48015835
1 thing is if you don'twant to screw up read a guide or two and google the names of the technques you want to employ, this will give you a general idea of how eerything works. By only asking here youget only some informations and you will end up fucking up and having to come back with basic questions everytime. in this case the techniques would be layering an glazing. Always let the coat of glaze dry before doing the subsequent and yes basically layering means painting the whole are acolour say leadbelcher, and then painting over it in the raised areas with a brighter colour, say runefang steel.Also for the layering let everything dry before going over it. There are a couple techniques which play with wet paint, but as a general rule, if you don't know what you are doing let everything dry
>>48015892
>>48015779
I feel like ill just make the helmets yellow like normal with a yellow kneepad and if it looks bad ill repaint it, as well as the gem on the head.
Whats the best colour gem on a yellow surface?
>>48014796
>Black Dragons
>I imagine most of it would be a vanilla Marines force with the colour scheme, and just the assault squads changed to have blades?
That's about what you would see on the battlefield, I imagine. If the blades/horns ever got to be too much ("Brother-Sergeant! My helm no longer fits properly!"), they'd probably grind them down a la Hellboy.
>>48015989
The best colour is the one you like the most. Complementary colour would be purple, Also if you really like the blue helms just go with them, nothing too bad, it's just that i personally hate monochromatic models.
>>48016048
I think I'll paint 3 guys, and make each guy have a black, yellow, and blue helmet and compare and choose. Feels like the safest bet
>>48015892
Now with actual quality
I painted some Kingdom Death - thoughts?
>>48016080
is that 5th edition rulebook?
>>48016080
Based
>>48016124
Yes
>>48016118
it looks pretty good, maybe needs wash and highlight on the hair and the non metallic metal needs some touch ups, but i can't help you since i suck at it too(actually more than you, that's pretty good already)
>>48016118
I don't like the skintone, it just looks odd and blends in too much with the skirt
>>48016163
not him, but looks like perfectly normal tanned flesh to me, why do you say it's odd?
I'm thinking the green needs a wash and a touch up...it looks too flat. Thoughts?
>>48016203
it looks really yellow and doesn't look like a natural skin tone to me
>>48016215
with marines, i usually see people making line washes , as in applying the wash precisely to the parts that need it,like where the raised part of the helm meets the lower parts. Also definitely needs highlighting and watchout for the washes. You stained the secoond around the rivets and the fourth on the backpack
>>48016248
it might not be too realistic, but it's a farily normal fantasy tone, or at least i am "used" to it.
>>48016215
also is that a traitor's heavy bolter?
>>48016293
>but it's a farily normal fantasy ton
I disagree with you, but there's no point arguing about this, lets just agree to disagree
>>48016327
No idea, I got the model off ebay.
Camera is bust so I can't really Show you what I'm working on, but I hope you'll appreciate it. A couple of my good friends are getting married. One a Templars player and the other a Sisters player. I'm painting a Sister Superior and an Emperors Champion to be decked out as a battle ready bride and groom. A small sentiment to go with the Actual gift.
I see what you mean about highlights, but the green I'm using is so bright already...I guess I can mix it with white?
>>48016401
you can always highlight green by mixing base colour with yellow if you want a brighter effect, otherwise i think moot green highlights should work, but i a not sure.
>>48016118
More Kingdom Death. Better lighting on this pic. More thoughts appreciated.
>>48016444
a part form some imperfections in paint, that mould line on the foot and the hole on the arm whcih should have been filled, pretty good
>>48016444
I like the skintone on this one
>>48016215
You're lacking contrast. You either need deeper shadows, or brighter highlights.
>>48016444
Last Kingdom Death for tonight. Slowly working my way through the base game. Anyone else working on these?
>>48016633
Pretty good too, i love how that yellow cape came out, but i feel like the main body is a bit bland, nothing really pops
>>48015172
There are two ways of going about this, you can either print onto thick, nice paper and reinforce the structure as you go along, or you can print onto a lesser paper, glue onto thicker card using a spray-adhesive, then cut out the designs and fold them as necessary.
It will take time, but if you really put time into it and make sure that the effort is professional, you can achieve some really good affects and vehicles at a very small cost when it comes to money.
I'm hoping to papercraft some terrain for 40k and fantasy gaming myself.
Just got the body for my heavily converted helbrute still working on arms any critiques ?
>>48016824
backview
>>48016444
My dick likes it.
So I tried my hand at using greenstuff tonight. First time ever. Just wanted to gap-fill some models which didn't get quite flush.
Problem was, I realized after I started that my greenstuff on hand was almost two years old, and I'm not sure if it's gone bad or if I'm just shit at using this stuff. It just would not stick to the model, for one. No matter what I did it strongly preferred to stick to my tools over the model. I tried adding water, but that only made it worse; the water got underneath the poorly-attached greenstuff and then it started sliding around a ton. Just trying to push the shit into a joint gap was an exercise in frustration because half the time it would pop out when I retrieved the tool or worse when I tried smoothing the surface it'd pop out.
Should I buy a fresh batch of greenstuff, or do I just need to git gud?
>>48016327
>also is that a traitor's heavy bolter?
Nope. It's a Deathwatch Frag Cannon!
>>48016215
Weird, all your guys seem shorter than the normal marines. Did you chop them up or something?
>>48017142
Get a fresh batch of Greenstuff, its usually best to make sure that you keep the two halves of that epoxy seperate when storing it and only using a little of each at a time.
When it comes to the git gud aspect of this you should have started with a tool that has a small amount of water on it, you need to lubricate the tool so that it doesn't stick to it, but not so much that it starts to water down the greenstuff itself.
>>48017206
Wow, good catch.
The ebay was originally for a deathwatch kill team.
>>48016824
>>48016850
Really good conversion. You started off with a Contemptor?
>>48017208
It's an optical illusion. They look like the new Sternguard, who are much bulkier than normal marines. If you put a Sternguard pauldron on one of the older marines it will look humongous. Like bigger than the torso.
>>48016444
>More Kingdom Death. Better lighting on this pic. More thoughts appreciated.
Wait... Candy and Cola are in Kingdom Death, too? That's an odd crossover ...
Well, they're also in Super Dungeon Explore... maybe that's not so weird after all!
>>48017296
I recall KD making survivor versions of other company's pinups.
Does this need anything?
>>48017453
>No writing on the parchment
Just wiggle a black brush on it at the very least. Better yet try to write something in latin.
>>48017453
storm bolter casing needs to be painted. probably black red or purple
>>48017509
>Just wiggle a black brush on it at the very least. Better yet try to write something in latin.
Even better, >>48017453, get out your Sakura micron pens and make tiny scribblings. At this scale, we shouldn't be able to make them out anyway.
>>48017277
Actually started of with a regular helbrute
>>48016327
One in the middle looks like a scout HB and one on the right looks like a traitor one
Are Reaper Bones the worst minis ever? Every single one I've painted has been an unmitigated goddamn disaster. This whole "durr they're minis you don't have to prime" idea is godawful.
>>48017964
>One in the middle looks like a scout HB and one on the right looks like a traitor one
You're right!
It's obviously *not* the frag cannon, as I thought. It's also not the one from the Sternguard set, either; that one has a big Crux Terminatus on the side. The plastic devastator sets (and the metal 3rd edition one as well) are all belt-fed, so it's not any of those. The markings perfectly match the newer plastic scout heavy bolter (pic related).
The one on the right *is* the plastic Chaos Space Marine heavy bolter, but it's been converted. The normal model has a belt of bolts hanging down below it, but it's been replaced by a loyalist ammo bin.
So I'm trying to paint these guys to sort of resemble the two on the left. Look good so far or have I fucked up? Red looks thick, but it was thinned considerably.
>>48018218
isn't their whole appeal that they're cheap? I guess you get what you pay for
>>48018218
honestly it sounds like you just suck
bones are probably the easiest plastic models I've ever worked with
getting dark colors to actually look dark can be a bit of a pain in the ass since they're all white so
'priming' them involves painting them with black a couple times (instead of just spraying them), but otherwise I have no complaints
pic is a painted bones (not mine)
the minis are fine, anon, it's you that has the problem
>>48014914
What model from where? For what?
>>48018218
I don't see why they would come out especially bad. You CAN prime them you know, it is what I do. As >>48018540
said, the problem probably lies with yourself.
New to using green stuff
What advice do you guys have for closing gaps?
I've made his right arm have more angled for a more dynamic pose and I'm using liquid green stuff to fill the gap.
>>48019360
You need solid green stuff for a gap that big, not liquid green stuff. Come on, people.
>>48019360
Liquid green stuff will work, but you need to do it in layers for a big gap. Fill it best you can, smooth it off. You'll see a space left over when it dries. Fill that space with the next layer and smooth it. Keep working on it until you're done.
>>48014914
Is that from the malifaux rpg kit? Is it any good?
>>48019477
>New to using green stuff
Was that not a good enough implication for my inexperience, fucko?
>>48019624
Perfect. I appreciate it and will be working with this method. Thank you.
>>48009528
>fatguys
>diligent modelers
>do all the preliminary work
Hard workers<>fat guys = irony. Geddit now?
>>48020051
>fucko
Lol the cringe
>>48016248
I know a few Italians with skin similar to that tone.
A model will always have skin that looks different to natural though. The scale messes with shadows.
>>48019749
Looks like diamond eyes (i think that's her name) from the starter set for the core skirmish game.
And yes malifaux is great.
They suck at chopping up their plastic kits though.
>>48018540
Yo that shield is pretty fucking sick.
Well, started to paint two knights specifically for my Dark Mechanicum War Convocation instead of using my current household ones. The ectoplasma cannons make for nice heads.
>>48016265
I found that it's easier to just wash the whole marine and then layer over the armor plates.
>>48016401
As a guy that also has a green SM army - don't mix white into your greens for highlights. Use moot green or look through the vallejo line for an even brighter one.
I usually do 2 step edge highlights for common groundpounders and 3 step + zenithal highlights with glazes for characters.
Also, drill your barrels.
>>48010008
They're kind of thin but other than that they're good
I just finished a couple of works that I had on the side and I would like to share them with you guys. I have more details on both if you want.
this is a papercraft grot tank.
and this is a veteran Space Marine I had lying around and decided to experiment a bit on.
>>48013711
Not Op, but silver on white is too monotone. Red on white is great because of the colour contrast.
Built my first mawloc to try tunnel swarm formation.
here is my take on fluffy base
>>48021901
well yes you can of course, but make sure to cover the wash or it will look stained
New prewash and some additional cleaning Noise Marine.
>>48023558
Nice use of plaster.
>>48023558
THICC
I'm in the process of making cultists out of Flagellants, this one in particular some kind of sorcerer. I want to find something that could be painted as lightning bolts jumping out of his finger tips, otherwise he just looks like he's halfway through doing The Robot.
>>48023584
You could use thin metal wire. As an alternative, you could skip the lightning and paint his hands as though he was gathering energy and they were focussing light
Does anyone have the old blue eldar codex and the craftworlds expansion?
>>48024143
2nd edition
>http://docslide.us/documents/eldar-codex-2nd-edpdf.html
4th edition (in russian)
>http://wh40klib.ru/codex/Old-School_Codex/Eldar_4-th_ed_Rus.pdf
>Moving into new house for second year of uni in a couple of months
>Used to play shit tonne of 40k when I was in early teens but got too expensive
>Bought a squad of guardsmen last year + £60 worth of paint
>Only painted up a few of them
>Know if I take them with me to uni I'll spend a bunch of money on 40k
>Want a relaxing hobby to do in the evening that won't ruin my wallet but all the tools, paints and models I already own
>>48024181
Hey, thanks for sharing. I think the one I'm looking for is the one from 3rd edition and the supplement about eldar craftworlds, it portrayed an avatar of khaine on the cover.
>>48024222
Cant post link because spam filter google eldar 3rd edition codex pdf and click the first result from vk.com
How can I make my bases pop a bit more whilst keeping them simple? At the moment I'm Scorched Brown, add a little white and drybrush, then add patches of static grass. Some reeds or lichen I guess.
>>48018218
No, but I was in a similar boat to you.
Frustrated by them to the point I couldn't finish what I'd started. You have to get your prep right with them, then they are actually really fun to paint.
http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/48669-bones-the-first-coat-is-the-difference/
I finished a Bronzeheart Minotaur a couple of threads back after initially struggling, once I got a solid layer on it was as fun to paint as anything I've done. I've bought some Vallejo brush-on primer which should be turning up today, which should make it even easier.
>>48015006
I like this guy. He looks prettyangry
>>48024351
>How can I make my bases pop a bit more whilst keeping them simple?
you can get tufts with meadow flowers from various manufacturers and in different colors.
Not harder to apply than any other kind of flock, but add a nice touch of color to the bases that really set them apart from the standard sand and grass look imo.
>>48015006
>Crimson Fist
You realize his plastron is emblazoned with a winged blood drop, don't you? That's the old Blood Angels Devastator Squad Sergeant from Second Edition days.
>>48015006
>>48024515
I guess that's fair. I took one of your captains so I could make a Blood Angel out of him.
>>48024191
Play a smaller game like Infinity or Malifaux, or maybe just paint garage kits and scale models.
>>48011368
Fuck cultist, go with combat company
>>48023921
Lightning is hard to paint. I might just trash it, alter his hands and use some of the fire brands to make it look like fire is shooting from his palms.
>>48024547
I've never really understood the hate for this model.
I miss that codex, these days Marines get all sort of wankery that they shouldn't have.
>>48024704
>I've never really understood the hate for this model.
It's bad.
The legs are super thin, the power fist doesn't even look like any of the other variations and even breaks a few rules of the established aesthetic.
And I don't think they captured him as a character well either.
Even when the model came out it looked bad.
You need to see it next to some other minis to realize and appreciate how off it really looks, I think.Cortez was my favorite character aside from Sergeant Lysander during 3rd, so I was pretty disappointed.
>>48024704
>I've never really understood the hate for this model.
>>48024767
>It's bad.
You think *you* have problems?
At least this particular Lemartes was modeled so you could believe he's charging uphill in a hurricane.
>>48024834
You know that's the funny thing. I dislike Cortez, but while the pose of Lemartes was kind of unlucky, the proportions of the model and the weapons all looked right and true to the rest of the model range.
I never had a big problem with him.
If you'd file off the purity seals on his legs he'd look fine even on a flat base imo.
Cortez just looks off, no matter how you base him.
>>48025312
>If you'd file off the purity seals on his legs he'd look fine even on a flat base im
Here's a conversion I spotted years ago that attempts to address that.
>>48025312
>Cortez just looks off, no matter how you base him.
I've also seen some conversions that attempt to correct this as well. Most involve moving around the power fist.
>>48025364
that image triggers me
>>48018540
No, the material is pretty shit. You can get good results, but the material is still shit and takes some getting used to.
Also, mould lines and bends are a paint in the ass with this material.
So, yeah, it can be done, but your opinion... sucks.
>>48024695
looks pretty limited ;)
Well, this showed up on eBay this morning. Kinda pricey, though.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331894576826
>>48022330
Khaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaan!!!!
Getting back into painting, but most of my metallics have dried up and there's only so much I can do with just Boltgun Metal. Should I:
1) Stick with Citadel since I'm used to it
2) Grab Liquid Gold since I've heard it's great quality despite some limited color range
3) Grab Scale 75 metallics since they have a larger range than Liquid but still sound p good
4) Other brand altogether.
>>48013472
I have found that the maxx and 2xx primers actually remove quite a bit of detail on some models. If you are in a no LGS area or don't want to buy the expensive primers, the $0.98 flat black or flat white basic spray paint from Walmart can do very well. the hotter the ambient temps, the lighter and more sprays necessary. On Monday it was 108 degrees here, but I did about 7 very light coats of white in about 45 minutes,
>>48023558
I like the colour's your using but...
>thin your paints
use a white primer (they call it white scar now?) and do thin coats over top, you will need to play around with how much water you use. secondly, if your trying to transition from something like purple to yellow or even a bright orange lay down a layer of gray and then white. this will allow the brighter colour to pop out, just layering yellow on purple will get a much darker brown looking colour but by transitioning with a bright base you block the purple from effecting the yellow
>>48025944
>I have found that the maxx and 2xx primers actually remove quite a bit of detail on some models.
Yeah, I was getting "thin yer paints!" comments on this lad. I know the old metal captain doesn't have as much detail as the new resin Centos, but my paints *are* thinned. I damned my own creation by undercoating him with the Rust-Oleum 2x Ultra Cover.
Never again!
>>48026166
People are retards. I don't think that paint looks particularly thick.
ten thunder brother
did anyone here paint this mini already? I had a fuckton of problems doing the lion on the robe and it came out awful
Working on this farseer for my freakshow. Thoughts on the black under robe contrasted with the starry overcoat?
>>48026547
here's what he's going to be with
>>48026520
Have you thought about glazing the robe or the skin? The highlights look a little harsh. You may just want to put a few more coats on the lion until the consistency is good.
>>48026567
I don't have a blue glaze sadly
will do it on the skin for now, thanks
>>48026605
You can see if you can just use some glaze medium and blue paint. Everything else is looking sharp so far.
Nearly finished...
Better pic of exarch, love how he came out so far
>>48021992
looking good! If you didn't say it was papercraft I would have never noticed.
>>48022009
Damn niqqa das gud.
>>48026131
Excellent advice. To be honest I was struggling with the yellow (I swear I've been trying to thin it appropriately) but if I just give it a while/light undercoat I should need to gob it on there to make the color uniform.
Relearning things I thought I knew.
I'm working on some horus Heresy marines, and I'm still putting stuff together right now. I'm looking for a kind of Northern Raider theme for my Sons of Horus, and am considering using Warriors of Chaos and Chaos Space Marine bits for them. Would anyone have any good inspiration pics available?
>>48026755
What are you doing on those base? Is that textured paint with basing slate chunks?
>>48027072
Cuban beach sand and bits of gravel and rocks from a park
>>48026547
Works with the overall tone of the model, in my opinion. I really like it.
I remember seeing a tutorial for this kind of starry-clothes technique, lately: do you happen to have a copy?
>>48023584
That's a great kit for conversions, I used it as a base for my priests
>>48016401
Are those Sons of Medusa? The white helmets look like it but that green might be Salamanders
>>48027162
Haven't seen that - what I do is:
1:1 mix Incubi Darkness / Black
Pure Incubi darkness in random blotches
1:1 Incubi / whatever green I find laying around
Then just mix whatever I have at this point with greens, blues, purples, whatever I feel like.
Then white for stars
So just Kitbashed and did an Admech uh something Champion the Blade i had broke off but i got my first paint on him
repostin from last thread
I'm planning on making a dice box. It will be dual use so I can just leave the dice in it at the end of the day and carry it out. So there will be an acrylic top that slides off and attaches to the bottom.
The whole thing otherwise will be made of wood with a foam and felt lined interior. i want to also burn the Aquila logo into one of the sides like some kind of shipping crate brand.
Though I'd like to add in the old school art in some way. originally I was thinking of finding an old box and having the acrylic top just have the face of the box glued and sealed to it, but i'm not too sure about that
>pic related except with a sliding top as well
>>48021992
I see you there porygon.
Looks nice. Good paper crafting.
>>48027613
>I was thinking of finding an old box and having the acrylic top just have the face of the box glued and sealed to it
If yer box is big enough, and you can find it ...
>>48025893
Citadel metallics are reasonably nice if you don't care about the price.
Vallejo has some nice stuff.
>>48027690
Even if i cant I can always get the art printed out. using a real box just adds to it
Oh shit nigga what am I doing.
>>48026326
>>48026166
Yeah seems alright. It was perhaps the red on the chest though. Also yellow highlights made by mixing white can have an odd effect of making paint look thick.
>>48009522
how does dettol affect glue I'd imagine it wouldn't affect plastic glue, but what about super glue?
>>48027806
I think it can make it easier to remove. I just stripped about 200 models, it was still a bit of work to get all the glue off but they came apart without too much bother.
Chucking stuff in the freezer shifts it nicely.
>>48027761
Givin' yoself reason to spend $15 more later:
http://www.tcpglobal.com/ABD-TFR-2000-B.html
Or you could get a kit with a gravity feed and pressure regulator:
http://www.tcpglobal.com/Airbrushing-Supplies/Master-Airbrush-Kits/desu I got the same kit you're looking at from Harbor Freight. It's pretty good, though you will need to get a pressure regulator to get 10-20 psi, otherwise that thing runs at like 50 psi.
>>48023584
You might try something my friend pulled off if you don't want to try greenstuff: use some gel superglue to build up scraggly/spikey shapes eminating from his hands. Looks good once it's all painted up.
>>48027806
I did a google on the DAKKA forums and found this
>Brown Dettol works really really well soak minis for ~24hours in a mix of dettol and water then brush the paint off with cheap toothbrushes from tescos. (10p for 2). Depending on how much paint you have to remove get a lot of toothbrushes, at least the space marines I've been stripping seem to coat the brushes in a sort of paint sludge pretty quickly, after a point you are just moving the sludge around rather than removing paint.
Tooth picks i've also found handy to get paint out of details if you dont have anything like dental picks or sculpting tools.
Also might be useful or annoying depending on what you are working on but dettol seems to eat super glue, which is amazing if you want to rework some of the models or change weapons but a possible annoyance if you are happy with the model other than the paint job. Pretty minor issue overall.
>>48027738
>Even if i cant I can always get the art printed out. using a real box just adds to it
Well, the original box would also have a giant black-and-yellow Second Edition 40K logo emblazoned across the top, like on this old Devastator Squad box. I guess you could always Photoshop that on to it, though.
>>48027904
didnt copy the whole thing because i'm stupid
>Also don't forget about your minis I kind of forgot about a tactical squad for about a month or so in a container, makes the plastic a bit soft but otherwise they are fine.
[edit]
Some shots of using detol
Before | After 24h | After another go to get some stubborn black out of details.
Notice the base being a bit grey after being forgotten for a month.
>>48027893
This; stay away from that Harbor Freight. Mine ran hot enough to keep me warm through the winter before I got fed up with the air pulsation and replaced it.
>>48027806
Also it softens green stuff. If you're super careful you can keep it but I found a lot of mine came off.
>>48027924
The old school Warhammer logo is the shit man. I don't know how others feel about it but I love the old 80s and early 90s box art the best. It has a specific charm to it.
>>48027893
Out of curiosity but is there any supplies that one would buy at harbor freight (not just air brush but anything) I need to go there to pick up some cheap shit like a propane torch and some new pliers
For Science of course.
>>48027761
Wasting your money on a crappy set.
>>48024515
fuck me holy fuck. I even googled it beforehand and thought I saw he was an Imperial Fist guy, because I thought the blood drop looked off. he was even painted blue and red when I got him. god damn it
>>48027964
>The old school Warhammer logo is the shit man.
Second Edition was my favourite version of the game, and the best logo.
>I don't know how others feel about it but I love the old 80s and early 90s box art the best. It has a specific charm to it.
A lot of the 40K art I can take or leave...
>>48028104
... it's the Epic/Space Marine art that was grand!
>>48028104
BUT ITS THE BATTLE TANK OF THE 41ST MILLENNIUM.
>>48028122
>those faces
HI THIS IS AHNALDEpic has my favorite box art so far
>>48028122
Don't see this one often...
>>48028384
I'll most likely be putting a Nid box on it since i play nids. But then again I could always put on something imperial related, especially since I'l working out making a brand to brand my name and the imperial eagle on it
How do i remove nubs without leaving hideous gashes? These warriors seem to be designed for anger.
>>48028016
They actually do make a pneumatic hose to airbrush adapter that's worth the buck, of you want to use a shop compressor with your brush; can't think of much other than that.
>>48028454
A good pair of flush sprue cutters then careful slicing with a hobby knife or filing/sanding it down. It's pretty easy if it's on something like a leg or arm but if it's nestled inbetween two bumps like a space marine backpack or arm, it's a pain.
>>48028258
>those faces
Guess what!
>>48028581
Those power cables are a serious hazard.
>>48028581
Isn't it beautiful.
>>48027761
Get a gravity fed airbrush.
Hey I need some bits identification help. I got pic related on eBay a long time ago under the name "forgeworld chaos space marine spikes", but can't find anything related to the existence of this thin anymore. Halp?
>>48028715
This thing even has a copyright from GW, which is crazy.
>>48028581
If you look at the Ork and Eldar ones, they're the old 40k models from that time too. Kinda hard to tell with the Eldar ones though.
>>48028715
When GW used to make their studio scenery, they used to resin-cast pieces that they wanted to re-use. The main example I've seen of this was stone-slabs for some dwarf stuff they made. That might be something like that, I certainly can't remember them ever releasing anything like what is pictured.
>>48028941
Did they ever sell them?
>>48029097
Not that I know of, but that rarely stops bits sneaking out on occasion.
>>48028901
So you're telling me there's a mini of funky dancin' pistol guardian out there?
Fuck. Yes.
some rust
For you guys who use spray primer:
What is your preferred method of spraying multiple figures at a time?
I've been sticky-taking figures by the bottom of their bases to a 2 foot flat stick and spraying them 5 at a time. I'm wanting to do more, like 10 at a time, but I can't group them close together without fucking up the control of how they receive spray paint.
