No WIP thread on /tg/?!? Emperor's Teeth! That's HERESY!!!
>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here
>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
https://mega.co.nz#F!Wl5DAbCb!TYxZG4CgX_x-NJu7JBwbZQ
>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA
>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw
>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU
>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/
>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg
>Stripping Paint
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...
>Ventilate, motherfucker
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf
>This planet is ours, witch!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_b-qBTul44
>Previous Thread:
>>47786296
I'm entertaining the idea to add some spawn to my Thousand Sons army. What would egyptian-styled Spawn look like? Perhaps fluff-wise they would be experiments by the Sorcerers of the warband in figuring out potential anti-rubric measures on human captives? The failures are completely obedient to the creators like beaten dogs.
>>47809565
Egyptian animals?
Scarab beetle? animal headed sorcerer with a few extra tentacles, imo, spawn doesn't always have to mean misshapen lump of flesh, just a mind broken mutant
>>47809629
>spawn doesn't always have to mean misshapen lump of flesh
Oh I know it doesn't, I'm tired and taking ideas. Always ask other creatives cause my view may be too narrow.
>$4.25 for a jar of citadel paint
wew it's been a while since I've bought this stuff
Complete 40k/modeling noob here, are cadian legs and torsos supposed to look more flush? Am i doing it right?
>>47809713
Sorry for any broken necks
>>47809713
Looks fine to me Australia-kun.
>>47809565
You could use tomb kings ushabti.
If you are looking for egyptian style in general Reaper has a line of egyptian undead, not sure if they got anything as big as a spawn though.
Wargods of aegyptus have a whole range of egyptian fantasy miniatures styled after various egyptian gods.
They don't have many big monster units either afaik, but the crocodile faction is based on 40mm unless I'm mistaken.
Giant scarabs or something could be neat as well.
Or maybe some of these Silver Tower cultist dudes. If they are to scale with all the other AoS guys they should tower over regularly sized 28mm minis.
>>47809565
>>47809757
Or get some huge flame elementals and combine them with blue horror parts to create a huge flaming spawn ball of horrors.
Or try to convert some skeksis.
You could convert Minotaurs with heads from Giant Eagles.
>>47809757
I already use an Ushabti with LotR Great Eagle wings as my DP and the Sorcerers that will be accompanied by the Spawn are WHF Tomb Guard models, so I'd like to do something different than skellies for them.
Animal beasts sound good honestly. Something that makes you think "Mindless rip and tear machine under complete control of a leader", a swarming mentality perhaps.
Could maybe take a page from The Mummy's handbook and have Spawn be a mass of scarabs moving as one like a hivemind?
>>47809836
Yeah those could work too. I'll hear more suggestions and look up some inspiration too and mull it over to come up with something cool. I'm on board with animal beasts or scarabs right now.
my Warhammer Quest Silver Tower custom Lord of Plagues guy, still a wip and more to do.
>>47809966
Looks good fampai.
But I need to know how you are doing the rules for him so I can also do my own Heroes?
>>47810086
bit of a cop out on this one, i'm just copying the rules from the white dwarf. The good people at the age of sigmar general, have all the heroes from the app created in card form in the paste bin.
A little something something I'm making for a one-off painting project (thinking the Crimson Shades)
Looking for input from anon on what to arm him with. Leaning pretty hard toward the power fist, since it used to be a sergeant staple that you don't really see anymore, due to challenges.
>>47809966
I can tell you're the same guy who does the weathered green chaos marine because you use the same technique
>>47809918
Pic of the dp?
>>47809713
Cadians are one of their older kits (from 2002) and aren't as flush. You will want to trim them for a really flush fit.
Newer kits like Scions will fit together great.
Also how can you stay calm enough to model with all the dangerous wildlife around?
>>47810272
You should totally do his other arm posed like he's pulling a pair of crimson shades from his face Horatio Caine style.
And you need to prepare a long list of cheesy one liners you can use to demoralize your opponents, while gaming.power fist and bolt pistol or chainsword and bolt pistol is a great combo, and if gaming isn't a concern imo the chainsword is even more iconic. Could just be me because I grew up on cheapo 3rd edition sarges with chainswords and boltpistols though.
>>47810577
Don't have a photo handy and the wings I need to refix onto his back due to a breakage but it's basically this model with dark blue/purple skin and golden armour.
I quite like its lithe appearance, I find it quite befitting the TS and Lords of Change generally look emaciated too, so it's cool to have a DP reflect that nature too.
Reposting warboss
Need to do some more extreme highlights and touch up some places
>>47809713
Focus on making the front flush, and don't worry about the sides and back. You can use the pouches and equipment to cover up the seam in the back and around the sides and no one will really notice.
>>47810633
Bolt pistol will look very dinky on a body that big. Maybe a fully fledged boltgun?
How difficult would it be to greenstuff regular Cadians to bolster my Kasrkin numbers?
>>47811098
you think? Boltpistols are huge.
I don't think it would off. Just more like the artwork.
opinions. first knight i've ever built/painted. this was my test one out of the renegade box. the other is going to be the crimson reaper paint scheme.
theyre both going with my blood angels/cult mech army.
>>47811650
i might paint over the battle damage i did on the shoulders. the more i look at it the more i dislike it
>>47811507
Difficult enough that if I were you I'd simply buy a squad or two for the $15 they're selling for on Ebay.
OR, if you insist on NIB, go for $20.
>>47811507
Would be easier to just buy some of these and add some breathing masks from FW to kitbash your own.
You could try substituting the Scions' rifles for the hellguns.
If you want to convert stuff you'd have to add kneepads and armor on the arms with GS and add some armor plating on the hips with plastic card.
Depends really on how good you are with GS, but since you are asking I assume you don't have much experience sculpting?
The next best thing would probably be using 3rd party bodies entirely.
Pig Iron have a nice affordable range of stuff. They also have some armored system troopers that could do the trick. If you stick a GW head on them they should look close enough I figure.
>>47811684
Not even the other guy but in my corner of the world Kasrkin are a hot commodity.
They are pretty expensive usually.
>>47811650
Bully! you clearly took your time getting the separation between different paints, and that's the big factor on those large, pricey models. I've seen many a knight that was clearly painted in an hour, and on a $150 model that's simply sad.
Next, get to shading, highlighting, and using the transfers. My knight took me over two months to paint, three including to assemble with all the gluing and magnetizing. But it was worth it.
>>47811650
>Biting your nails
>Then painting them
Ew.
>>47811737
the nails are from spray priming.
>>47811729
i actually just painted this up during the day. i had it off so i spent probably 5 hours or so messing around with it. all I have are the renegade transfers, so i'm hoping to get my hands on the actual knight transfers, but it's not looking good.
![gallery_45765_5904_98461[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/ucLbXjb.jpg "gallery_45765_5904_98461[1].jpg")
>>47811712
OH! I completely misunderstood you, I thought you were going to get standard Cadian infantry to just have in your army, and were considering building them from SCRATCH out of greenstuff. Hence my response: >>47811684
Kasrkin have four big things that are different from standard Cadians, model-wise:
>armored upper leg/knee
>gauntlets
>backpacks (all soldiers have them, even sergeants)
>weapons (special weapons are the same but pistols and lasguns have a power cable leading to the backpack)
I can't imagine greenstuffing all that off a Cadian model for entire squads. My response is the same, except a squad of Kasrkin is $30.
![6358899960068147322127282582_635861833670816810507191518_6670-perfect-snow-1920x1080-nature-wallpaper[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/TrdTNSH.jpg "6358899960068147322127282582_635861833670816810507191518_6670-perfect-snow-1920x1080-nature-wallpaper[1].jpg")
Guys.
Snow.
How to? Where to?
Tutorials? Good alternatives?
Anything you got please, I don't want to buy the expensive GW snow if I can avoid it..
>>47811818
Maybe the photo's hiding the crimes, then. Either way a Knight is not a 5-hour job. It's not even a 5-day job if you REALLY want it to look pretty.
>>47811824
Flock the base, then paint the flock the lightest shade of grey you've got once the glue's dry. Don't wash. Highlight with an overbrush of white, applied at least twice. See if that works.
>>47811712
tfw I'm going to have like 70 unpainted Kasrkin once my next trade goes through
new Cadians when
>>47811820
they're like $45 per 10 from what I've seen
Yo wip I got some weathering powder for my tanks.
No idea how to use it.
Also can I use that Stirland mud GW technical for mud and stuff on tank treads?
I need some advice
>>47811929
I'm seeing metalcast Kasrkin on ebay for 5/$30 right now. Just google it.
Also, 70 of them? They use Scions rules now, so they're at Space Marine point levels. How could you even use that many models in a game?
>>47811098
>Maybe a fully fledged boltgun?
Unless your model has a rule like "Relentless", firing the bolt gun prevents him from charging and bringing that awesome power fist to bear. That being said, the power fist is a "Specialist" weapon, so pairing it with a bolt pistol will not grant you an additional attack, either. You *could* opt to give him another specialist weapon, such as a lightning claw, or just give him the bolt gun (it's free) anyway and make sure he's the lad who throws his unit's single grenade (frag or krak, take your pick) during the shooting phase if you want to follow up with an assault.
It's my first warhammers models, fellas. Just bought it a few mins ago
So far:
I've removed the plastic wrap from the box.
I'll keep you updated.
>>47811684
>>47811690
>>47811820
I've got a full 10 man squad already, So I'll just plan on making some extra special weapons guys and a unit sergeant and run two to three small five man units or something. Got some of the masks from the cadian command set, biggest hurdle I think will be the backpacks, but I got a ton of Cadian voxes I'm considering cutting up.
>>47812382
Holy shit.
40k's rules sound worse each time I hear people talking about the new stuff.
>>47809043
Hit me with all of your church pictures.
>>47812446
Thin your plastic wrap
![1466012480283[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/PH6Dr0T.jpg "1466012480283[1].jpg")
>>47812516
>10 good men
That's all you need to run 'Chenkov's Revenge'. Just give two of them meltas, make one a sergeant, one an officer, find a commissar somewhere, give him a mustache, use that Taurox model you were considering throwing out, and SEND IN THE NEXT WAVE!
Seriously, this formation is the only reason I still own my Taurox. That and I couldn't find anyone to buy it.
>>47812446
Follow the photo guide, fuck, what am I even looking at?
>>47812735
Oh my god.
I need to buy commisars right now.
>>47812050
Oh yeah, I'm talking 10 for $45, more or less the same as 5 for $30 I guess
And yeah it's become sort of an addiction. People sell them to me for cheap so I buy them. I'll probably never use them, I do want to start a small Vostroyan force but they're rarer than Kasrkins albeit cheaper.
Hey /wip/ I was hoping you guys might be able to help me out, I want to try and convert a mini to look like D.Va and her mech from overwatch. I have no idea what a good starting model would be for that though. I was thinking one of the TAGs from infinity at first but nothing looks close enough (mostly proportional human shapes).
Suggestions?
>>47812974
Use a model that blows up when it dies.
>>47812974
Take a rider and body from an Infinity mech then replace the head up with a piece shaped like that.
>>47812974
kitbash an imperal knight, a dreadknight, a a couple eldar jetbikes, and use bits from eldar tanks
>>47812382
It's a painting project. If he was going to even consider running that sergeant in a game he wouldn't be taking a power fist at all.
He's asking for something that looks iconic.
>>47812735
Make the Commissar a Lord Commissar, to properly represent Chenkov and his ability to inspire fear even into Commissars.
>>47812974
anyone else think her arms shouldn't be so exposed?
>>47813039
overwatch has a lot of amputee character that are missing arms or legs
Hana has all of her limbs still. She wants to fit in with the team, but doesn't want to remove healthy limbs. She figures leaving her arms exposed might get one (or both) blown off.
>>47813027
>Chenkov
>being the most senior Commissar in a theatre of operations
First, if the Lord Commissar in a theatre is commanding a frontline combat unit, something has gone wrong. Second, if it's Chenkov, something has gone VERY wrong.
>>47812771
It's a box.
since some faggot was losing his temper over me not posting in this thread.....
here's me starting to see if cheap shitty acrylics will actually do a half decent job at miniatures. First test is a shitty dollar store army man because I don't want to ruin something actually worth anything.
>>47812974
You could probably start with a Heavy Myrmidon fromWarmachineand build it up/cut it down from there.
Extremely similar body layout if you're down for more than just kitbasing.
>>47813099
Now I feel like painting some Scions as Spetsnaz or summat like that.
>>47813013
Cute. I actually scored a quad this evening Throwing my mech at an objective the opposing team was trying to cap.
>>47813022
My current predicament is that not much looks like the top. The legs would probably be easy if I cut and repositioned the Lizard squadron legs, I just shudder to think how much work it's gonna take with it being metal.
>>47813024
Would be too big in that case, Just trying to make something TAG or dreadnaught sized. cute pic though
>>47812974
>Suggestions?
Reminds me of some of the walkers Soda Pop miniatures made.
>>47813195
I'll keep this in mind, the feet would need to be trimmed back and swapped out, and again I'd need the ship for the top, but it's closer than I was.
>>47813026
>He's asking for something that looks iconic.
One need look no further than the work of John Blanche. Bolt gun and power fist it is!
>>47813375
Oh fuck, Good call.
This is actually pretty close IMO, would still need to make the dome and machine gun arms but It's already half-way there. Guess I need to start getting good with Plasticraft so I can do up the rest of this. Thanks for the help guys.
>>47813560
>ass in the air
Jesus, if you use this fix that pose. She's gonna break her spine.Or her hymen...
>>47813636
Yeah I know, I think I'll probably end up cutting that model in half, and laying it flat along the inside of the dome.
>>47806522
thread ended before i could post this
AKUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU
some updates on the scibor minis i've been working on
>>47814105
shot of the base
>>47809043
Does anyone else get triggered by people putting basing material on clear flying bases, or priming flying stems (and especially the big flyer jet stems) black?
I thought they were clear for a reason: so you keep it clear and it matches any terrain. But even GW bases it.
>>47813560
I was about to suggest this for >>47812974. Probably closest he's going to get without building from scratch.
>>47814156
I've actually started using Underground Lasers laser cut plastic tokens for bases. They're the same base size and thickness, but they're transparent, colored plastic with patterns laser engraved in them. Using them for scifi miniatures makes them look slick like you're observing a computer overlay of the situation, and using them for fantasy makes them look like they have a magic circle or aura at their feet.
Anyone know a good company to commission 3d prints from? I've got a model I need made for conversion purposes.
[Amazing chest ahead]
>>47814698
[Try washing?]
You guys have any special things where you put your minis while you let the paint dry or do you just sit it where you left it?
>>47814720
No, not with a handsculpt like that. You'll just end up revealing all the texturing, which will look wierd on tits. Either smooth it over, then shade it, or shade it manually.
Is acetone-containing nail polish remover good for metal minis? Otherwise it's going to take millennia stripping these clean with simple green.
>>47814767
That wasn't a handsculpt on the chest, unfortunately. The mini was this one, before I added the spider face. .
http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/spider/latest/77180
>>47814789
Acetone is fine on metal. just beware damaging your bases.
>>47812446
CSM Sucks, get a different army
>Tfw trying to stay centered on Alpha Legion
>Tfw everything else looks cool, so i'll just take one squad or model to get it out of my system
>Have more squads of other shit than AL army now
Fug
Getting close to finishing this Contemptor. I just need to finish the rust effects with some oil paint and turpentine, then figure out how I want the bare metal parts to look. I'd like to give them a greasy and oil-smeared look but can't decide how I should do it.
Hello guys, I want to start painting my army, but I don't own the tools, can you advice me a good deal to start?
Some kind of bundle or similar?
If cheap is better.
>>47815056
Paint is literally 4 bucks a pot, just get what you need for starting out. You probably won't need a ton of paints if you're just starting out, so even like 6 paints (which is enough for a basic color scheme) is just 24 dollars plus tax. Brushes can be found rather cheap for about ~7 a pack.
If you were looking for something that might appeal to a certain color scheme, then there might be something out there for the more uniform armies like Ultramarines and Leviathan
>>47811650
Working on a similar knight for my Blood Angels / Mech Cult.
>>47815056
the bundles from privateer press, army painter etc have good tools, but tend to overdo it for what you need to start out. they try to sell you the whole workshop so to speak.
things you need, barebones edition:
plastic glue/polycement (for your miniatures)
hobby knife + blades
sprue clippers
cheap synthetic brush pack (the five dollar cornerstore type that have a variety of sizes)
I'd also recommend a plastic painting palette for mixing your paints.
that's what I started with.
citadel paints are good for 40k models, but dont buy any citadel tools. they cost twice what the other companies do, and arent worth it.
>>47812974
See if there are some gundam stuff that could be kitbashed into something appropriate perhaps.
>>47813132
Well this is where it should be posted.
Use a metal mini and strip it after. What you're testing needs the finer details of a hobby grade mini.
The larger pigments of the crappy acrylic is what would be obsuring details, you wont see that if there aren't really that many fine details.
Proper science mode: get two identical minis and paint them both. One with model paint one with non model and see if there's a thickness difference.
>>47814156
I replace the clear bases with actual bases and match it to my army.
Uniformity is better. The clear bases look a bit crappy in my opinion.
>>47814720
Not bad. Her human part is way out of scale to the spider if you were trying to match the game. But it's fine for heroic scale I suppose.
>>47815409
I'm considering a second try, using these two minis for speed and cheapness.
http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/spider/latest/77395
http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/dryad/sku-down/77265
Humanoid part might be a bit out of scale, though...
>>47812535
Not new. But then again space marines never really want to charge into combat when they can instead rapid fire their boltguns.
Combi-bolter and melta-bomb is the best loadout.
>>47815428
Do you need her for a game peice or just funzies?
I'd try getting a giant spider then looking at mini ranges from a smaller scale so overall the model would fit into a smaler scale range so the spider looks appropriately large.
>>47814310
You could look up artists on shapeways and contact them. If not there, you could try tumblr and look for 3D artists that take commissions, if such a thing exists yet.
Yeah, tumblr, but you're just browsing for artists to make you stuff for money not subscribing to yet another strange flavor of social extremism.
>>47815464
Funzies/having her when there's a need. I just want a big spider chick to have sitting around if I need one.
The base came out good, though.
>>47809966
How did you do the rust on the axe?
did a bunch of cleanup on my inquisitor, though after taking the pictures I can see more stuff that was missed. Some of the mold lines are really hard to see with the naked eye, but I am 1000% certain they would show up after paint it applied. Also did some dremeling on her back to make it less blobby, but the photo I took of that didn't focus properly.
Spent an hour trying to fix her belt buckle before nearly ruining the model and giving up. I'll just smooth out where the buckle used to be or something then find a bit somewhere I guess.
How good is GW liquid greenstuff at its intended purpose? I've heard mixed reports...
Also unsure how to go about fixing her hair. GS never seems to stick in places like that and it always end up in a lumpy and not smooth finish for me unless I grind it down.
Followed the advice given I painted up the front 2 sons of medusa terminators a bit further. The grey wash on the white was an awesome suggestion! Anyone who can help me with some free hand tutorials for the legion symbol? I was thinking 1 guide for an easy skull and iam quite sure i can manage the halo around it.
Any other ideas where i can improve? I am thinking of painting some black terminator honors on some knees. A couple of black knee pads. Perhaps paint on terminator shoulder black and use a white legion symbol. I also have green stuff so i could try to sculpt some stuff but i utterly suck at it. So only the easiest of suggestions please! Perhaps some rivets?
I know the image sucks and i will see if i can make a lightbox.
previous image: >>47791080
>>47811650
it looks about 75% done. Overall it looks messy. I would highly recommend washing and highlighting. Right now everything looks very flat.Also add cool stuff to the model, like decals, symbols, etc.
>>47811824
Google - Warlordgames russian snow . there are tons of ww2 modelling guides for snow.
>>47813132
do you not see how thick that paint is?
>>47814999
it looks a bit over the top. Might i suggest touching up the head, knees, and some of the larger rust spots? I love the legion number
>>47811824
My snow technique is a mix of baking soda, white glue, and white craft paint, about 1-1-1, with a little water added.
Then flock with powder. Comes out looking alright, for slopping around.
>>47812576
nicememe.com
>>47815844
>baking soda
don't use baking soda! it'll turn yellow over time, melts sometimes and starts to look like pus.
>>47815936
That's what the white paint is for.
>>47815936
>it'll turn yellow
that's why the paint is in the mix, smart guy
if he's smart he's also varnishing
So I'm starting to paint my space hulk termies, and I want to know how to achieve the following...
How do you paint shadows like can be seen on this image? Like at the bottom edge of his pauldron?
I dont see any brush marks, or demarcation lines at all
>>47816021
airbrushing is a lovely art
They got an Airbrush
likely on low pressure fine output and filled the pot with Deeper red.
Easy. paint around the desired areas before doing an over coat on the non shadowed areas. with the lighter of the reds.
Do this Before painting in blacks whites browns and so on
Start off red.
>>47816077
Why do I find airbrushing lazy and cheap and brushwork more artisan?
>>47816093
Because you're anelf.
>>47816093
because the machine does half the work?
Airbrushing does however, Produce a MUCH smoother finish and keeps more detail.
the amount of cleaning that goes into airbrushes though. its not really lazy.
>>47816077
i understood about 20% of this.
I've primed my model, and base coated red. Now what.
(I have an airbrush at my disposal)
>>47816093
Because you're a shitty elitist. It's all just ends to a means - a shitty painter won't stop being shitty just because he buys an airbrush.
>>47816021
im not sure this is an airbrush
>>47816093
stop being envious. When people go over board with an airbrush its obvious and looks shit, if this is indeed an airbrush, then this has taken true skill
>>47816093
It's not lazy and cheap but paintbrushing IS more artisanal. Same way bone needle tattoos are more artisanal than the typical parlor buzzer.
>>47816093
I bought an airbrush and I can't do even a quarter of what I've seen people do. It seems lazy cause you're just spraying paint on.
Just cause you have an airbrush doesn't mean you can do anything good with it. It all depends on the painter just like brush painting.
>>47816140
Pretty much the latter of what he said.
>>47816144
The base body is definitely airbrushed.
>>47810489
I don't own any CSM, would like to see any pictures though
>>47815506
Mig pigments Dark Rust, it's great stuff, I'm not finished with it yet either.
WIP, Do you
1. Keep the figure and the base separate and do the base then attach it
2. Attach base to figure then make your base
On a separate note what tools do you use, i was going to pick up this kit and an xacto knife kit.
Any simular or better tool kits for $35 or less?
http://www.gntools.co.uk/top-quality-tool-kit-ideal-for-airfix-models-and-warhammer40k-games-workshop-model-makers-set-8-255-p.asp
>>47816115
>>47816119
>>47816140
>>47816144
>>47816148
>>47816154
didnt mean it in the negative sense, but some of you sound real mad
>>47816130
ok
now
get darker red
put on to lower pressure. Go around the under edges. Not directly on the actual bits. just enough to create a fading effect. Do this. where you want shadows.
sorry for being unclear i'm currently on my fourth glass of wine.
i just buy a can of Tamiya TS9 and Base coat all of my vehicles.
I'm a Vehicle heavy Guard Player
Quelaag poster here. I'm trying to get a good looking molten lava look, to add to the base. I'm thinking some crackle paint could work. Does that sound like a good idea?
>>47816265
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uH5C6_TxPr8
>>47816021
It's just really smoothly blended.
Either done with wetblending or more likely glazing.
Working on a DreadClaw and a Kharybis Assault claw for my 30k Night Lords........fuck there is so much still left to do
>>47816093
Because a lot of airbrushing looks fucking shit.
I see endlessly poorly airbrushed models, they look wank.
I occasionally see amazing airbrush brush work, very detailed very nice, the guy who paints infinity models for their studio only uses airbrush and he's amazing.
>>47816200
but its not darker red, its black
>>47816021
>>47816144
Thin layers and patience. Intermediate shades as well, don't just jump up from dark shade to brightest.
>>47816562
Just lots of layers starting from black. This is how I do red:
>prime black
>base reddish-brown
>layer dark red
>then slightly brighter red
>black wash
>back to the previous red
>then a brighter one
>purple wash
>the brighter red again
>then the brightest red
>red wash
>brightest red on highlights
>orange-red extreme highlights
Probably excessive, but it gets a smooth result.
So /wip/ I need some assistance.
I'm prepared to do plenty of sculpting work but I need a suitable base model to work from to make a 40k version pic related.
Essentially I'm thinking of making a Dark Souls inspired 30k lost legion, and he is my Primarch. I need him to look as twisted and corrupted as he is in game.
>>47816697
i've based mephiston red, and its kind of a pinky red.
>>47815464
Alternatively you could go bigger with something like the Arachnarok.
>>47816803
I don't use citadel paints, but I get the same thing a bit from some of the reds I start from, I think it's an issue of saturation in the pigments. I find that a couple of red washes towards the end of the process really help to intensify the redness.
>>47815366
it's not really a scientific test.
Tonight I'll finish that guy up with a metal drybrush on the gun, skin highlights, and a drybrush on the uniform, and camo dots on the helmet.
Next mini I'll try is probably one of the better quality plastic army men I have that's a smaller scale. They're like, 1:48 scale or something, idk. Actually different by nationality.
>>47815707
it's thin, trust me. It's a shitty dollar store army man, there's not much detail to the sculpt to begin with.
I'll have more valid results with the next mini, whether it's something from GW, or just anything that's more detailed.
how do you paint metal thats been underwater for ages? like water-corroded armor and such?
And on the subject, how to paint bloated, drowned flesh? Mostly go with blues and mix then with fleshtones?
Any tips or guides on how to get good-looking eyes on space marines, for someone who can't get into such a small detail without making a mess?
>>47815164
>>47815190
I was thinking to buy the starter from Army painter, but I was not full convinced about it, and the big one is too huge for me.
Thanks both of you for the advice.
>>47817011
Paint them first. Then do the main colors.
That way you don't have to get your brush into recessed areas.
Work from the inside out.
>>47810680
Not the same Anon, but here is an example of one of mine similar to what he is talking aboot.
so I've slowly been working through a big batch of tacticals, I'm almost at the point where I need to base them
any suggestions on what to do? The original idea was to put them on resin bases with shattered sandstone floors, but I had to use those for something else. I'm not sure what color(s) would work well.
>>47817008
>how do you paint metal thats been underwater for ages? like water-corroded armor and such?
I'd recommend googling for shipwrecks and such.
They are usually covered with all kinds of things that usually grow on coral reefs.
Google scallywaggin and GMM studios for army based loosely on the same concept.
>And on the subject, how to paint bloated, drowned flesh? Mostly go with blues and mix then with fleshtones?
Bodies floating in water usually are bloated because of the gases building inside, the skin may be flayed, because it's been softened andsoaked with water and overall they tend to be mostly colorless. Soft tissues like noses, lips, eyes and ears are the first to go if they spent a lot of time in water since fish tend to nibble on them.
Again having a look at reference material would be helpful I guess, but I could understand if you don't want to google for corpses.
The blue-black thing is something that is usually more indicative of freeze damage.
You might turn blue if you are in the progress of suffocating because the blood is deprived of oxygen, so blue lips and the like would be appropriate for somebody still alive or in the process of dying.
If a body is dead the plasma seperates from the blood and circulation ceases.
So if a body is lying around it's gonna have what looks like big bruises on the parts where the blood collected. That probably wouldn't happen with floaters since they move more, not entirely sure though.
Since the rest of the body is bloodless it's gonna be pretty pale.
(White) Skin is basically translucent, what gives people the pinkish color is the blood. Without it you'd basically be white as chalk.
>>47816475
But there's also so much garbage brush painted stuff. Spend any time on here and you'll see bucket loads.
>>47817153
That is a fucking great badrukk conversion. If it's yours well done!
>>47817008
Corroded metal?
Let it dry, scrape it back, polish and paint.
Or use some of dat electrolosis if you have the cash
>>47817153
good stuff! Thanks anon!
>>47817090
you got a spot on the exhaust cooler of the backpack.
>>47817008
In citadel colors, ryza red for rust, nihilahk oxide for blue oxidation, and typhus corrosion for grime.
Those can go a long way by themselves, but if you want coral growth and barnacles you'll need greenstuff and more color
>>47817738
I got that fixed a while ago with a few layers of clear red.
>>47814999
Good luck.
http://allegro.pl/tactical-nr-214-1-edycja-i6247161243.html
is there a Johnny? I always have a prob to recognize him.
>>47818025
>http://allegro.pl/tactical-nr-214-1-edycja-i6247161243.html
doesn't look like it to me.
>>47814156
Because they scratch ridiculously easy
I tried my hand at mold making yesterday. I needed to replace a missing piece of a model.
So I used instant mold to copy the 2 sides of the part and then used Pam oven spray for a release agent, then filled the mold with green stuff.
My question is, is green stuff supposed to have the consistency of rubber when cured?
>>47812542
>Hit me with all of your church pictures.
Here is St. Giles Cathedral, Edinburgh, Scotland. When I was there in 2002, there was a nice GW store just down the Royal Mile.
>>47817857
good :)
>>47816021
>How do you paint shadows like can be seen on this image? Like at the bottom edge of his pauldron?
This not my style, but...
Undercoat Chaos Black
Base coat Mephiston Red
Wash with Nuln Oil
Work upwards (Evil Sunz Scarlet --> Wild Rider Red --> Troll Slayer Orange) from there
I personally prefer the brighter red the Blood Angels had in Second Edition, so I start with a white undercoat, base coat with Evil Sunz Scarlet, and wash with Devlan Mud or Seraphim Sepia.
>>47818025
>is there a Johnny? I always have a prob to recognize him.
No. That lot is plastic RTB-01 beekees, a plastic 2nd Edition rokkit chukka, and a few 2nd Edition "Strike Force" backpacks. There aren't any metal Space Marines in it at all.
>>47817844
I dyslexia read the filename as shuriken cannon.
>>47818205
Yes, it stays rubbery. The yellow/blue ratio can be adjusted to get different results.
More blue = faster cure, harder result
More yellow = slower cure, softer result
Kill me. I don't want to do Lamenters anymore after this captain is done. Legs base coats are done and are ready for highlighting.
>>47818605
Head detail. Annoyingly the spray went a little grainy on one side, luckily it's the side that will be facing away from him. Need to highlight lenses and silvers.
>>47818605
Nice legs choice!
>>47818615
And the source of my anguish. Need to tidy it up and solidify the colours but Jesus fucking Christ I don't want to paint 20+ of these.
>>47818621
Thanks, need to paint the teardrops as blue gemstones still but need to decide on what colours I want to use. I think this mini will be a one off.
>>47818632
>And the source of my anguish. Need to tidy it up and solidify the colours but Jesus fucking Christ I don't want to paint 20+ of these.
>>47818647
>I think this mini will be a one off.
How about a Deathwatch Kill Team with a Lamenter in it? Then you only need to do the one.
>>47818025
>is there a Johnny?
Well, this just showed up on eBay in the UK today.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/371658559167
Master of ordnance because i have a plastic fetish
>>47818768
Thanks mate.
>>47812446
Death to the false Emperor, welcome brother!
How do you plan to paint them?
>>47814999
Looks nice and dirty, keep up the good work!
>>47818230
Hey! That's the street I live on!
>>47818982
he's a big guy
>>47819568
Forzyu
>>47816706
Why not a dark eldar kabalite warrior?
>>47819896
Not him, but might be a bit small for a primarch.
>>47819557
brb sending pizzas :)
>>47820772
That's a bit healthy for the Scottish, isn't it?
>>47820892
Well, pizza IS an American vegetable.
>>47819896
>>47820453
I'm >>47816706 and unfortunately a Kabalite is a tad too small.
I've seen space marine pictures online and whatnot, and always felt they looked big. Actually sitting down to work with this raptor (I posted the box picture yesterday) though. My god these things are tiny. Beyond tiny.
>>47809690
It's more than that now isn't it? The metallics are like $5 or more.
I used to laugh at the poorfags whining that their colors cost $3.75 or $4 but when the price is approaching twice as high as Vallejo there's really no reason to stick with Citadel.
>>47821235
>My god these things are tiny. Beyond tiny.
Guess what ...
>>47821364
What's do you do with that tiny guy?
>>47816312
Neat, but I'm actually looking to make a pool of lava, not a volcanic base....
>>47821393
Play Epic.
>>47821393
>What's do you do with that tiny guy?
The big guy is a regular 28mm plastic Space Marine for Warhammer 40,000.
The little guy is a 6mm plastic Space Marine for use with the Epic 40,000 roolz. These Epic scale Salamanders were painted by a lad who occasionally visits our WIP threads.
I'm working on a Daemon Prince for a small painting competition - thoughts so far? I think I should dull down the silver on the bracers, as it doesn't fit with the rest of the model.
>>47821835
The mouth is a little jarring, and the bracer's are pretty chalky. But I love what you've done with the skin.
I want to do an costume tech priest for Admech but i dont know how too, thinking of using tons of greenstuff but dont have any real beggining to think off.
Maybe you guys can help
>>47821962
Get yourself one of these for all of your cable-spawning needs
http://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/roll-maker/69-roll-maker-tube-wire-machine.html
>>47822001
Omg thank you that is amazing
>>47818632
All you need is a few ink pens and you'll be doing 20 of these in no time
>>47821835
You should really glaze down those transitions between the orange and the red some more
>>47821887
Yea, the mouth ended up being way bigger than I intended, but I'm not very experienced with GS... thanks for the remark about the skin though
>>47822284
You think so? They seemed to create nice focus points to me... guess I could try to touch them up a bit
>>47821255
Nah that's what I paid at my FLGS. I buy vallejo metallics so idk about that.
>>47810854
Enjoying the use of Forgebreaka. Positioning of the hands seems very natural, was there any sculpting involved?
Keep it up, anon.
Old wraithlord guy pls post progress picture
>>47824023
I need to highlight the blacks and I'm thinking of decals but yeah
>>47817090
How'd you do the red so well.
I've been painting my Thousands sons a flat red cause i don't want to muck up the metallic.
>>47824190
sweet, looking good
Finally got around to go on with my miniature number 27th.
>>47824918
And then I made some progress on diorama thingy.
>>47818230
>>47819557
SCOTBROS UNITE!!! Shortbread and heroin anyone? Also check out the wee cutie that works in the tourist shop just up from the GW store
I went for a wander up town the other day. Never hit the GW store though. Got enough stuff to crack on with.
>>47816093
> lazy and cheap
> not negative
Do you not speak english?
>>47825149
>SCOTBROS UNITE!!! Shortbread and heroin anyone?
It's funny... I took that picture of the High Kirk when I was in Edinburgh about 15 years ago, but I'm from 'cross the pond (US).
>Also check out the wee cutie that works in the tourist shop just up from the GW store
The girl who worked in the gift shop underneath St. Giles was really cute, and had a voice I could listen to all day. I imagine she's married and has kids by now.
I also bet, prior to Braveheart, that all the gift shops on the Royal Mile sold William Wallace figurines that looked like his statue at the castle (pic related). By the time I went, all the William Wallace figures I saw looked like Mel Gibson in a kilt.
I didn't take any pictures at GW Edinburgh - only GW Oxford Circus and GW Hammersmith. Or, if I did, I must have erased them. My camera's memory card didn't hold very many pictures, and without any way to download them, I had to sacrifice some to make room for uvva fingz.
>I went for a wander up town the other day. Never hit the GW store though. Got enough stuff to crack on with.
Is the "La Lanterna" restaurant still there? Oh! Quick Google search says yes it is! I love the way continentals come over and work as waitstaff while they attend university in the UK.
Did I not thin my paints enough? Every time I look away the green around his skull seems to disappear no matter how often I repaint it
>>47825695
>I didn't take any pictures at GW Edinburgh - only GW Oxford Circus and GW Hammersmith.
Now *here's* a project, WIP: the entire Ultramarines Chapter! It was on display at GW Hammersmith all those years ago. Imagine painting so many ladz!
>>47825736
>Did I not thin my paints enough? Every time I look away the green around his skull seems to disappear no matter how often I repaint it
Stop touching the model wiff yer grubby mittz while you paint it, anon! Stick him to something else you can hold onto, like an old medicine bottle lid (pic related) and I bet, as if by magic, you'll find that the paint will stop mysteriously disappearing.
>>47825805
So the acryllic can even come off just by touching it with your fingers?
>>47825829
Yes, when wet.
>>47825853
Makes sense. I was probably touching the still wet paint without realizing. Thanks anon
>>47825695
Ooh can I come live with you? Thanks! Imma pack my stuff now.
>The girl who worked in the gift shop underneath St. Giles was really cute, and had a voice I could listen to all day. I imagine she's married and has kids by now.
My friend and I were wandering about the town and we were checking whisky shops. After a while we decided to check out the tourist shop just up from the GW store and bah gawd, there she was, short, pale, long brown hair and big green eyes with a soft voice.
Also yeah the whole mel gibson in a kilt stuff is rather annoying at times.
>I love the way continentals come over and work as waitstaff while they attend university in the UK.
Oh yeah you should see the Polish hunk in the filling station behind Princes Street. 100% scrummy.
Dont have any recent pics but I'm making this into an ork mek gun. Maybe a kannon idk. Also got a trukk in the works along with boys to be painted and bolt action stuff
What's the easiest way to get into sculpting and molding with green stuff?
>>47825964
Push it around with your fingers.Seriously what exactly are you looking for here? There are no shortcuts for practicing.
>>47825964
this
>>47825991
and dip your fingertips in water when using green stuff so it doesnt stick to your fingers
>>47825744
That's the one that was in WD in the 90's right? Shame I don't see the all-pewter Thunderhawks.
>>47825744
I wonder whats happened to all those horrible old monopose minis...
>>47825744
>entire chapter
>one maybe two predators
I don't think so senpai
>>47825991
>>47826017
I mean for making stuff for your figures what's easiest? Capes, guts for a nurglite, making shields or something? What type of object is easiest to sculpt for your minis
how do thin paint for retard???
>>47825744
>Imagine painting so many ladz!
each GW store did up a handful and shipped them off to the UK
>>47826132
put water in paint
>>47826124
Dude.
That's kind of a weird question. What is easy depends on how you use the material, i.e. how you work and by extension who you are.
If you have a specific use case you should just try to do that.
If you want to start sculpting a figure you start with an armature.
If you just want to get a feel for the putty in general maybe do some small conversions first?
Adding different haircuts or facial hair, or other small things would probably be a good idea.
Again, being specific with your questions would go a long way towards being able to give you a useful answer.
>>47826269
No hard and fast rules, just "put water in, add more if it isn't thin enough?"
I'm working with professional grade acrylic but that's probably a given considering where we are.
An 80% complete Triarch Stalker, very basic conversion using Spyder parts.
Not a fan of Necron Vehicles having Pilots so I did away.
Anyone have the how to paint white pic
>>47826489
Used the gribblies that came with the cargo containers to make a set of objective markers
>>47826447
This is a great conversion.
That out of all the things the joints seem like they've collected rust seems odd though.
Should be the other way around. The movement around the joints should these parts clean of rust.
>>47826520
Thanks m8.
So should I do a Pallid wych basecoat or ulthuan grey basecoat?
>>47826554
Oh no...
>>47826554
You're right in reality, but for "my guys" their overlord kicked the shit out of an Adeptus Mechanicus explorator fleet who woke them up and after doing so smashed open a bunch of status pods they had containing ancient tech which were contaminated by a xenoc sentient "cosmic" rust virus.. the Dynasty's scarabs work non stop to remove the rust which spreads as fast as it is removed.
That being said I shall now add runefang silver around the joints to indicate this, thanks!
>>47826563
desu I'm not that familiar with the new range of paints.
I think the wych flesh might have a bit more brown in it.
So if you are aiming for a warmer tone go with that.
>>47826563
The fuck? No, you base with a base first, Rakarth flesh.
>>47826703
You don't have to use a base paint first, they are just extra opaque to cover what was ubderneath
>>47826813
I know it's not the law but you are doing yourself a favour, as you'll get a better colour and will save you multiple multiple milk think layer paint layers instead.
>>47826703
whats the point of the screaming skull layer in the image on the right when it all is just covered up by pallid wych flesh....
>>47826703
Don't necessarily listen to autistic anon, basecoating with bases is easier,but not necessary(as long as you are painting over a similar colour, so no sotek green over black please)
>>47826849
It's just providing you with a lighter shade to work over than washed Rakarth Flesh. you won't need as many coats and it'll avoid blotchyness
>>47826849
The point is by following GW's painting tutorials they get you to buy lots of unnecessary paints for unnecessary steps.
Guys, do yourselves a big favour and stop following GW's painting "tutorials". Search real tutorials not made by people who only want to sell you as many paints as they can.
>>47826525
nice easy and clean. i really like it.
>>47823368
I just carefully drilled out the handle of the axe then cleaned it up a bit, then shimmied Forgebreaker down in there
>>47826984
Shaping up good.
>>47826901
Duncan wouldn't try and jew me like that.
>>47826901
There is something to be said for convenience.
Strictly speaking all you need is red, blue, yellow, white and black. The rest you can mix yourself.
For obvious reasons nobody works that way though.
A good rule of thumb is using a base, a shade and a highlight. If you paint in successive layers thin enough, aka glazing you don't even need more than that to get a nice smooth transition on every part of the model.
Thing is, these tutorials are aimed at people that are not even able to make a decision on what color to paint what. So assuming you're telling the most artistically challenged guy you can find how to do something step by step and in the easiest way possible then the GW tutorials do have their place.
Obviously they are a crutch, but if you follow them you'll get decent results.
There are arbitrary choices in there that don't seem to make a lot of sense like basing a white model black, but that's just because the dude writing the tutorial isn't gonna do exactly what you would do.
So pat yourself on the back for not needing these tutorials, for people that are looking for help it might be nice to have this in addition to the rest of the internet as you've pointed out though.
/wip/ I'm about 99.9% sure I got a recast from Ebay. . . Not mad about it, it was way cheaper than getting the models from FW, but I can see light through a few parts of the resin, they feel brittle, and I'm pretty sure I have a job on my hands fixing these guys back to glory.
> my question here is: do I use GS/Sculpty/modeling paste to thicken the resin, or should priming 'solve' this issue?
> Would Asterion Moloc look alright without a cape or should I do everything in my power to attempt to fix it?
>>47810272
Let's try that again.
>>47827225
Ok, little mad now. Got curious, held all the pieces up to the light. The entire edge of Asterions shield is transparent, and details are broken or missing (at least from FWs pic).
>>47827074
Why does GW have free tutorials on youtube?
To sell you paints.
