More Jonny edition!
>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here
>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
https://mega.co.nz#F!Wl5DAbCb!TYxZG4CgX_x-NJu7JBwbZQ
>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA
>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw
>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU
>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/
>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg
>Stripping Paint
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...
>Ventilate, motherfucker
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf
Also, repost to get things moving.
Dracothian Chariot. Should I put a banner in the back of the combat platform? The two guys are already pretty tightly packed on there, adding more stuff might be too much. On the other hand, most chariots in the game have some sort of banner there...
>>47712699
Thank you. Your efforts are appreciated.
>>47712699
Red is pain.
But at least it isn't yellow.
>>47712800
am I the only person that finds red, white and yellow not only easy, but fun?
>>47712800
Yellow>white>red>anything else.
>free day so decide to clean up and prime some models
>go to paint
>my two main colors are basically out and lumpy
>have to go out for dinner in three hours so it isn't worth me driving thirty minutes each way to get more
>super busy weekend
So now I am stuck here doing the metalics that I prefer to do last.
I won't use a model unless it at least has some of my major colors on it.
>>47712800
>Red is pain.
It's not so bad if you prime white. You can get a really bright Second Edition red if you prime white.
>But at least it isn't yellow.
Wisdom.
>>47712830
Life is hard
>>47712830
>>have to go out for dinner in three hours so it isn't worth me driving thirty minutes each way to get more
Yes it is. 1 hour round trip leaves 2 hours of painting and dicking around in the store before dinner.
I'm a procrastinator myself so I can see when people are just making empty excuses.
>>47712826
Just got my first three fliers for 40k and primed them all white and then >>47712830.
They are going to have alternating colorsand I don't care how bad it may look.
>>47712859
>2 hours of painting and dicking around in the store before dinner.
>Trying to paint at my FLGS during le Magic Night
Since school is out these bastards are there at open and on Friday they are there in droves. My store is much bigger than any of the GWs I have been to and most other game stores but last weekend I went on Saturday when they don't have a Magic Event and there were at least twenty of them playing.
>Knight almost done.
>The god damn battle cannon just does not want to look right
>Repainted it three times but still not good enough.
Making a Slaaneshi knight is pain.
>>47712818
I'm actually with you on red. I just needed two coats of mephiston red to get a strong color on my blood angels.
WIP don't judge to bad.
Alright WIP, I have decided on Imperial Fists as my 30k loyalist legion. I'm capable of painting yellow to a fairly reasonable level and not pulling out my hair in the process but it takes a long time with my process: Grey Primer>medium brrown basecoat>thin yellow layers upon layers upon layers
Is there any way to speed this process up? Does priming white make that big of difference compared to grey? Is priming brown an effective option? Should I add an intermediate step between a brown basecoat and yellow layers? Any help is much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
>>47712877
Oh God are you the anon with the Purple and Yellow Ravenwing?
>>47713009
The most obvious faster way would be using lighter brown and grey. I think i once saw someone prime white>wash sepia>highlight yellow>edge yellow and it looked actually decent, but i can't guarantee. (Is airbrushing an option?)
>>47712938
Maybe avoid painting ultra realistic veins on its throbbing penis cannon....
>>47713009
The broad strokes of your painting plan seem alright, but I'd recommend putting a yellow brown as an intermediary between the brown basecoat and the yellow layers. You'd reduce the amount of layers necessary quite dramatically I think.
>>47713068
No I just happen to be painting the Ravenwing Fliers as Purple, Yellow and White because I want them to stand out against the Blackness of my Codex painted bikers.
>>47712836
On the matter, does anybody have some good bright reds,which don't have that orange tough of wild rider red,to advice?
>>47713009
Army painter do a nice yellow primer, that followed by a sepia wash gets you a decent yellow base to work off.
>>47713109
Unfortunately no. The closest I can do is coloured primer spray cans. How light of a brown do you recommend? Now I'm thinking: primer> medium brown > light brown> yellow
>>47713009
Prime it with Army Painter Bone colour then do the shadows with slighty thinned agrax eartshade / lamia medium then go all over the model with cassandra yellow and then edge highlight with dorn yellow
>>47713009
Yellow primer, paint ink/wash into all the convenient lines and crevices Space Marine armour has, then slap whatever yellow you're using onto the flat bits.
For Space Marines I would nearly always prime in the colour they're actually going to be.
First attempt at converting a Ravenwing bikebrarian. Im not thrilled with it. I went with the right caster arm over the sword to keep the librarius iconography on the shoulder, but that forward facing purity seal is bugging me. My green stuffing went a bit off as well.
Suggestions for improvement if i do a round two?
What paint on matte varnish do you guys use?
>>47713219
I see that no amount of rotation appears to keep this image from flipping. Sorry about your broken necks.
>>47713150
>On the matter, does anybody have some good bright reds,which don't have that orange tough of wild rider red,to advice?
Evil Sunz Scarlet is in between that darker Mephiston Red and Wild Rider Red (which really does look orange if you use it by itself). It's a layer paint, though, so the consistency is also different from Mephiston Red.
Any tips for painting Space Marine bikes? Bought a box today.
>>47713182
Im lacking the edge highlight right know because i didnt manage to get my hands onto it but you should end up with these
>>47713261
I thought evil sunz was red too,i saw a tutorial where someone used it and it really looked orange.
>>47713009
http://www.mengelminiatures.com/2015/11/tutorial-heresy-era-imperial-fists.html
I was planning to follow this when I do my Fists.
>>47713150
Army painter do a bright as shit pure red.
Okay so just now getting into this hobby here.
How do I decide what color primer to use? I only have black glossy primer.
>>47713326
I meant orange obviously.
>>47713316
Imo, spray priming the sprue then painting the model in component sections prior to assembling fully was really efficient for bikes
>>47713373
How are the mold lines on the pieces? Easy enough to remove while on the sprue?
I'd check but I'm on the subway right now and it's crowded.
>>47713342
Depends on what color your model is. Grey is a good all around primer. You should use flat primers not glossy.
>>47713219
Looks fine to me. That looks like the Dark Vengeance librarian by the looks of it so its already shitty monopose.
Mine was my first "conversion" but I didn't put enough care into it and this he doesn't have an arm on the handlebars.
Since then I have converted the Blood Raven and White Scar from Overkill into my other two Biker Librarians in the conclave.
>>47713230
Army Painter. Vallejo's is too smooth to the touch.
>>47713390
Thrones models themselves? They are grey.
>>47713421
>>47713390
The models themselves*
Sorry, I'm on my phone.
>>47713421
What colour primer you use can depend on what colour you are going to paint the model.
If it's going to be mostly white or yellow overall then black primer with be a total pain, for instance.
>>47713421
It depends on what color you want to paint the models. Darker colors should use black primer to save time but honestly anything can be painted on any black, grey, or white primer. Just depends on how much time you want to save.
>>47713451
Is there some way of deciding which one to use? Do I just use the color that is the closest to what they will be overall?
>>47713471
You can buy a colored primer from Army Painter if it's that difficult for you to decide.
Black primer for armies that will be black or dark [color] like Dark Angels in dark green.
Grey or white for armies that are yellow, red, white, or grey or will be a light army like 2nd edition bright blue Ultramarines or bright green Salamanders.
>>47712994
nice. but one critisism.
FLIP THE PICTURE UPRIGHT.
>>47713518
Different anon, but I do have a question about those.
Which would you (not just you, but everyone) say is "lazier", using those, or airbrushing your basecoat on? My LGS is divided on this for ??? reasons.
>>47713547
Army Painter is lazier than airbrushing because with airbrushing you have to set up your airbrush area/booth and you also have to clean the airbrush and change colors eventually which is a pain in the ass.
Airbrushing in general is lazier than normal painting, but if it's just for priming or basecoating, shaking a rattle can for a minute then spraying is much lazier than getting your airbrush ready.
>>47713518
>primer from Army Painter
Not that anon, but I've had nothing but trouble with these. Why should I go with Army Painter when I could use Krylon, save money, and have to use one extra layer of paint?
>>47713419
Thanks, I have some Vallejo stuff and I wasn't too happy with the test results.
I used to have some excellent stuff, but the label came off the glass bottle years ago and I cannot remember what the fuck it was called.
>>47713547
who cares. work smart for YOU. fuck what others do if it's not what you prefer after trying the options yourself and forming... I know it's a foreign concept here... your own opinion
>>47713584
Because Krylon doesn't have as many colors nor does it have matching paint bottles.
If you don't know how to use AP you're just a moron. Try watching their youtube tutorial or reading the directions on the can. It doesn't spray like other brands but it's also not difficult. It's also more resilient to accidentally drenching the models in paint or spraying in bad weather compared to other brands. I consider AP the retard sorter spray. If you fuck up with AP, you're a retard or you did something wrong.
Spray lightly from a very close distance.
>>47713598
Hence the
>??? reasons
People at my shop like to argue about the DUMBEST shit.
>>47713573
See, I actually want an airbrush so I can use it just for priming and basecoating (the parts of painting I hate doing).
>>47713339
Thank you, doea anybody have experience with army painters' paints? Also is their demonic yellow bright as well?
>>47713619
>See, I actually want an airbrush so I can use it just for priming and basecoating (the parts of painting I hate doing).
Go look up a youtube video on how to change colors or clean an airbrush.
You will probably change your mind about getting one just for basecoating. A more convenient solution would be to buy a single action or bottom-fed spray gun like the crappy one GW used to sell.
>>47713642
Ah, I didn't know those exist actually.
I'll have to check those out instead then.
Hi, first time using green stuff...how much it takes to dry? literally 4 days passed an it still behaves like soft rubber.
>>47713387
Hm. You can probably get them off fine, I recently used the ravenwing elite bikers box so that's not gonna be an accurate measurement. I don't remember having issues with my regular Biker box
Anyone else painting the Silver Tower stuff? Posting my progress from this evening since there aren't many images in the thread so far.
>>47713749
I'm guessing you didn't have equal parts. Is it pure green or does it have yellowish or blue tint?
>>47713749
>literally 4 days passed an it still behaves like soft rubber.
Then you didn't mix it properly.
After about an hour of working time it'll start to get stiffer and less sticky. Then it takes a good 10 to 12 hours at least to cure fully, but after 24 hours it should be as hard as it can be.
The blue part is the hardener, if you mix more blue you get GS that cures faster, but is a bit less sticky, if you use more yellow you get more working time and more sticky putty, that also doesn't dry as hard.
Heat can accelerate the curing.
>>47713795
Pretty good skin job anon.
>>47713798
I have literally equal parts of yellow and blue, and the yellow is homogeneous. Maybe I used too much water to wet the surfaces and my hands?
>>47713876
>and the yellow is homogeneous
Fuck, meant the green.
>>47713829
And how hard should it be? I mean, is not sticky now, and even if I squish it it returns to its form, but is like I said, rubber
>>47713867
Cheers, still a fair bit of work to go but I'm usually pretty good with skin which is why I started with these guys.
>>47713936
I would just add a little touch of highlight, but that's just me loving extreme highlights. It's pretty realistic and nice already. Also did you prime them with gesso? Primer looks very matte.
>>47713319
what do u use to hold the minis on the corks ?
>>47713901
>And how hard should it be? I mean, is not sticky now, and even if I squish it it returns to its form, but is like I said, rubber
It will never cure to be rock hard, if that is what you are worried about.
It's always gonna be a bit soft. If it's not tacky and does hold it's shape it's probably cured. How hard it ends up depends on how much blue you mixed with the yellow.
If you'd prefer something that dries hard as a rock i'd recommend looking into milliput. It feels a lot more like clay (as opposed to chewing gum like GS), you can dilute it with water until you can use it as a wash and once it's dry you can cut, drill, sand or do whatever else you need to do with it.
I like to do bases with milliput and miniatures with GS for example.
>>47713987
looks like foot holes. nice.
>>47713966
I've only done one layer on the front left two so far, they'll be getting more of a highlight.
And it's Halford's grey primer, which is an auto primer if you're not from the UK. I've been using it since the 90s, it's still the best stuff unless you really need a different colour.
>>47714018
So I won't be able to use sandpaper on GS?
>>47714053
You can sand dried greenstuff.
>>47714042
thank you
>>47714053
Yeah you can.
Will generally work better if you planned ahead and used a little more blue in your mix though.
I'd recommend wet sanding with a really fine grit though. If you use something to rough you get kinda crumbly tearing stuff going on due to the rubbery nature of the material.
Sanding is totally fine with GS though.
There is another putty commonly called brown stuff that most sculptors prefer for hard edges and mechanical stuff since it dries harder and you can work with it in a similar fashion to what I described with the milliput.
For your general purpose sculpting on conversions and the like you're fine if you stick with GS though.
>>47713529
Yeah i didn't put any effort into this picture. I took it because a friend wanted to see my models. Only posted it here because it was what i had on hand.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUBtItceuec
Good to see St. Duncan isn't dead.
>>47714361
YES! YES! PRAISE DUNCAN!
i found a cool way to base this rackham nemesis clone. one of my gaming friends also has one so we challenged eachother to a paint off
>>47713245
definitely trying to crane my neck to get the best view of your blurry, run-of-the-mill, basecoated nonsense
>>47713342
just starting? Google: color theory and click the first link. read it. continue your work with a better understanding of the colours you're using and how they work together.
Grey is a good base for reds.
Brown is a good base for yellow.
Black for darker resulting models, white for brighter schemes, but remember that you can paint grey or brown over that black or white before continuing with the main colours over top.
Google zenith priming as well.
>>47714415
I don't think I've seen rackham in these threads before.
Cute idea. Please tell me you didn't glue the plastic before priming it.
>>47713598
you don't HAVE to engage the argument.
and you'd just be sharing my opinion. I imagine logic doesn't win these folks over anyway.
>>47713795
Yessssss. Keep us posted
Early shot of a salvage project.
Decided to practice my black highlights on it before I paint Overwatch.
Still mostly just blocking out colors though.
>>47713795
What's that recipe, Haven't painted the Acolytes yet for fear of painting (human) skin
>>47712818
You probably aren't trying to paint it over black in one coat
Newfag here. If I want to prime a model black (since most of the model will be dark,) but have some pale skin exposed, should I find a way to obstruct the exposed bits while priming and then somehow get white primer on that part? Or is going all black just fine?
>>47714990
just base those parts by hand after priming.
either go from brown or grey depending how pale you are going and paint the skin color on top of that.
that kind of masking only really makes sense when you are using an airbrush. With a spray can you don't have nearly enough control over what you are doing.
>>47714990
You should ideally leave the head unglued and paint it separately, priming it white or something.
Masking might be tough if there isn't a clean straight line to the head, but it's worth a shot. Personally I'd just prime black and not worry about it. Simply do an extra layer or two of brown, which goes on fairly easily over black, then your flesh paint will go on easily over brown.
>>47714962
No, I am not, because that is a poor way of doing it. Hence my alternative offerings.
And for the record, I have painted red over black perfectly fine in 2 or 3 coats max with Mephiston Red and Mechrite Red.
But, the smart way to do it would be to lay down a base of medium to light grey over that black and then paint the red over that.
Or, if doing yellow, do a base of a warm brown over the black first.
Work smart, not hard/bad.
>>47715048
>>47715051
Alright cool. The heads came connected, so I don't really have that option, but I'll know if I ever end up with that opportunity to do that.
I suppose the same logic for painting separately applies when there's a part that would obstruct the model otherwise.
>>47714990
no, you would do a thin coat of the BASE to the colour you want to build up to.
So, like Bugmans Glow or Ratskin Flesh as the base and thinly build up to the end colour you desire.
Sometimes I use a medium grey mixed with a purple as the base of my more grim skins. I might do a grey/brown/green mix for the base on undead or very unhealthy skin. But very thin washes in key areas before the final highlights also really help to add depth. Like, a thin purple/red/both under the eyes, etc.
Painting up stuff for my Guildball team while I wait for my resin bases.
>>47715071
i am planning on doing yellow stuff and read about this brown basecoating a lot,but i never understood:
why brown and not white?
would zandri dust work as a yellowish brown?
i would like my yellow to be as bright as possible so i am asking to understand better
>>47715284
>why brown and not white?
simple answer is that you get a more even result by using successively brighter colors.
If you paint white over black you will get some splotchy areas.
In the end it doesn't matter if you paint 4 passes of white and then do yellow, or work your way up through a dark and medium brown to a tan to your yellow.
I really depends more on your painting style and what you can do with your paints.
If you got a chalky white with bad coverage using brown is just easier.
Does it matter to the final result? Yeah it can affect how it looks. Does it mean one way is inherently better than the other? No.
>>47714403
>YES! YES! PRAISE DUNCAN!
May He watch over us all.
Muh worn bronze
>>47715284
brown means if you go too thin or miss spots it'll look like a shadow, whereas white will just look wrong
>>47715317
ah right, i expressed myself poorly, i meant priming white vs brown over black primer. WOuld painting yellow be easier on a brown coat than on a white primer?
>>47715382
damn, that's a nice color.
I love how dark it looks, proper ancient tech
>>47712774
I don't believe you need a banner for it but why not check and see if it looks good?
>>47715382
Church/10
>>47715382
did you really put a church on that base?
>>47715372
>May He watch over us all.
maybe not the best idea. pic related.
>>47715388
If you prime white you simply circumvent the work of layering up to something you can use as base for yellow.
Yellow tends to be kind of transparent since the pigment in most yellow paints is not that strong.
Essentially the same thing applies, the question is just do you have more areas that are gonna be yellow than not on the finished model.
Painting black over white is easy, painting white over black is a pita.
>>47715382
wouldpurgehereticswith/10
>>47715427
>>47715440
I did it for church anon, although I'm fairly new to WIP generals so I might be missing a meme
>>47715423
thanks, was a fucking nightmare pushing warplock bronze, hashut copper and fulgrite copper through an airbrush though, the worn look was actually an accident that I just went with.
>>47715485
>>47715385
thank you both, i will be priming white as usual then, since i like the brightness it grants, hoping i will be able to make the yellow even
>>47715284
You go from darker to lighter, not darker to lighter then darker.
Anons, in your expert opinion, is Leadbelcher steel colored or silver colored?
I think my friend might be color blind despite being pretty damn good.
>>47715763
Steel.
![gw-99810101115[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/ARhOvqt.jpg "gw-99810101115[1].jpg")
Relatively new guy here.
How would I go about recreating the base of this model?
I know it most likely just sand glued onto a regular base and primed and uses has a layer of Skarsnik Green, but what paint is it based and drybrushed with?
Same guy as >>47715897
Do you guys think a using a base of Waaagh! Flesh for the base and Niblet Green drybrush would be good?
Should I stick with Skarsnik Green or should I use something like Warboss Green? A combination of the two?
Opinions please, I'm fumbling around in the dark here.
>>47716361
use a lellow. it will look greenish. and the very topps will be right.
>>47713795
Can you please give a run down on how you achieved that skin? It looks fantastic.
About to get my copy of silver tower, and want to achieve a similar quality
>>47716481
You mean for the drybrush, right?
So I something like Hexos Palesun instead of the Niblet Green?
With new rule changes, I'm highly motivated to make a primarchs wrath Bolter captain for my fists. Anyone have some good ranged captain inspiration laying about?
>>47715488
this is fantastic, but that jacket is amazing
>overcoated with black primer
>model is white and silver
This isn't going to end well, is it?
Currently trying to get the the cloak to turn out white, thinned out some valejo white and put a good layer on it, going to see how it drys and try and do it again where it came out poorly.
>>47716538
>>47717034
Do grey then white.
>>47715897
>How would I go about recreating the base of this model?
1). Glue fine basing sand to base
2). Paint Warboss Green
3). Drybrush tips of simulated grass with a mixture of Warboss Green and whatever yellow (Yriel or Flash Gitz are both good) you have handy
... and Bob's yer uncle!
>>47715388
It's easier on white. But you wont get the shade in the recess unless you go back and do it yourself.
Go look at a bunch of yellow minis. You can see the people that just do a flat yellow VS those that get some nice shading in there.
You can bandaid with washes though. Just depends how much you care.
If you want pure easy mode you just rattle can some yellow, wash it then basic edge highlight. Then do your other details. But like I said it can look funny if you don't go back and shade.
>>47717067
I'm the new guy, I currently only have black primer and I have to pull the trigger on an airbrush before I buy more.
Fourth mini from me is coming out tonight hopefully, first of a two part commission for my friend.
>>47714361
>10 dislikes already
Who the fuck are these faggots who subscribe to GW just to dislike the video?
So when I was newer I did my Terminators in yellow (a darker more golden yellow) on a grey primer and it wasn't that bad but now trying to do the same yellow on large flat surfaces of a white primer is actually hell.
I am thinning as instructed on youtube but these brushstrokes are real. My LGS owner even gave me a free Large Citadel Base Brush because I was going to try and do it with a much smaller one.
>think i have four of a weapon in my bits box
>only have three
damn it
>>47717351
Just slop on tons of yellow wash or glaze instead. If you fuck it up and it doesn't look smooth you can just paint yellow on top of that.
>>47717372
I have never used glazes the right way but it may worth a shot.
Hopefully I get a game this weekend so I have an excuse to run back to the shop.
I'm currently trying to figure out how to do leprosy on skin, does anyone have any advice or suggestions? I'm trying to make it for my zealot rabble but I'm not really good enough to greenstuff something like that.
So I was curious. Would it be a good idea to wash the model pieces right after all the mold line cleanings, cuttings, sawings, and general clean up work to wash off all the excess dust and shaving?
>>47717655
I'm a neat freak who always washes oil and dirt off my hands but I think it'd be a bad idea in general to get all that release agent on your tools, hands, other models, and work station. Just rinse them first thing you do, before even cleaning or cutting them off.
>>47717655
you can brush/blow the dust off fairly easily
it could be used to eliminate the oils from handling the parts during cleanup, but unless you have really greasy hands it seems like a wasted effort to me.
>>47717675
I did that, but should I bother washing them off after the cleaning and cutting and prepping (right before actually priming/gluing, ect) or will a stiff puff be enough to clear them off?
>>47717713
I just use a clean toothbrush and canned air or my breath to blow off shavings.
>>47713795
Are you the guy that posted on the 40k subreddit with your acolyte a while back? Your skin looks familiar and I love it.
>>47717351
It could be the brush. Do you have access to something higher quality to test?
Not the anon that asked the question, but fuck me I always forget to do give it a brief rinse after I've become obsessed with cleaning it up. Always get that fine grit that shows up just a little bit underneath the paint that's only noticeable to me.
>>47717151
You don't have to be subbed to react to something.
Either way it increases the video visibility. All interactions do.
>>47715897
That's a base painted green and then flock put on it. It was how people based in 2nd edition
>>47717780
>It could be the brush
But the brush is brand new. This is the first paint Ive used it for. It seems as good as the brushes I was buying from the Arts and Crafts Store.
I think it is the long flat areas of these fliers.
>>47717826
He's probably implying your brush isn't high quality. Maybe try thinning with acrylic medium or flow improver instead of water. Yellow is supposed to be a hard color to paint no matter what but I've never experienced the problems people tend to have. I just do a couple thin layers and it turns yellow.
>>47717627
If you have a pin vice (little hand drill) you can drill into the skin just a little in a few patches.
Then brush just a tiny amount of plastic glue to melt and soften the edges.
Works for corrosion on metal too.
Do it on sprue peices first till you get the hang of it though as it's obviously a destructive process.
>>47717846
I am thinning with Lahmian Medium from Citadel. The brush and paints (mostly everything I use for hobbying) is Citadel as well.
Are citadel brushes not good?The brushes I started with, only use a few of them still.
>>47717655
It's not a terrible idea. Just warm soapy water and a soft tooth brush will do the trick.
>>47717879
Anon, do yourself a favor and buy this.
https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B0009RRT9Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465614933&sr=8-1&keywords=master%27s+brush+cleaner
Also, Lahmian Medium doesn't necessarily thin paints, but it does make them flow better.
>>47717879
Citadel brushes aren't great but they're not bad. You shouldn't be having any problems so I don't know what's going wrong.
Citadel brushes are probably much better than generic art store brushes since GW started making all their brushes sable.
>>47717879
Silly question but you're not leaving them in the water are you?
>>47717826
It is a citadel brush so it's not going to be super great.
There are other things you can try like >>47717846 said.
What if the idea of painting minis appeals to me but I don't want to give GW my life savings?
>>47717932
Go on Ebay or scout for local yard sales. If you get lucky you'll hit a gold mine of some guys old minis in a yard sale for only five bucks.
>>47717894
I have a feeling I'm using this shit wrong because it has done nothing for my brushes.
>>47717932
Don't be a fucking retard and buy multiple boxes at once?
>Expecting a hobby to be cheap
Why do poorfags do this?
>>47715440
>earning the dubious moniker 'Light Brigade'
I have a new goal.
WIP 1/2
>>47717932
Didn't you ask this in the last thread and get an answer?
Simply buy your favourite thing from any random company and paint it. It isn't hard.
>>47717932
the give your life savings to another company and paint those models. still gonna cost you a comparable number of $s.
>>47717962
they probably just complain about anything and everything
>>47717968
Oh noes spoopy ghost!
Try to get some more flesh tone in there so he isn't so washed out by the light sourcing.
>>47717932
there's lots of other companies that produce miniatures, if you want really cheap check out reaper bones
>>47717968
WIP 2/2
Just a few more details and the base to go
>>47717894
Is it really worth getting for such a small thing?I've been cleaning them with a dry shampoo or soapy dish water.
>>47717900
I am just a shitty painter I think.
I built most of my army using Already Assembled minis besides my first lot and some monopose shit. These three fliers are the first things I have had to put together myself in a while.
>>47717912
Some of the very first brushes I bought used with my very first 40k lot I did but they were the old wooden handle with colored tip on the end and have now been decommissioned.
>>47717962
It's not even an expensive hobby, I'm a poor fag and have thousands of models from over the years.
Hobbies get waaay more expensive than this.
>>47717962
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DoovPge1Rq4
>>47718022
Very. It'll last you a GOOD while.
>>47718022
>I've been cleaning them with a dry shampoo or soapy dish water.
Jesus christ no!
>>47718022
It is worth it. I'm not that guy but myself and thousands of other painters use this product. It's a couple bucks for one cake that lasts forever and comes in a neat self contained screw tub.
It not only cleans your brushes but helps keep them sharp and save old damaged brushes.
Don't use regular soap, that will ruin any brushes you have made of natural sable or hairs. The harsh oils from soap and dishwasher liquid will strip the natural oils and make your brushes stiff and brittle. Only use these detergents on acrylic plastic brushes. The brush cleaner is a gentle soap with a conditioner meant for brush hairs.
>>47714887
Got some more work done. What should I do with the ammo cartridges on the right arm?
>>47718090
stop wasting time asking and JUST DO IT
it's a magazine, just paint it how you think then judge it or ask here if you *honestly* have no clue.
>>47717961
>>47717978
>>47718008
Thanks
>>47717975
No, it's the first time I post here IIRC
>>47717962
I live on a third world shithole you shitlord
I'm not sure they're even sold here, probably not outside of the very largest cities. What to you may seem like a reasonably priced hobby would be a fucking money sink to me, and I'm not precisely poor by my country's standards
>>47718189
How the fuck am I supposed to know where you live, you fucking shitboot?
>>47718133
I wouldn't have asked if I had any idea what to do.
Black seems boring since the model is mostly black, any sort of metallic is going to look out of place.
I suppose I could go with more red but that doesn't seem right either.
FUCK ME FOR LOOKING FOR INPUT RIGHT
>>47718133
This nigga is right, just do it. We don't know what you mean when you're asking what to do with it, do you want to change it or are you just asking what to paint it?
>>47718229
I didn't expect you to, therefore why I called you a shitlord rather than calling you a fucking shitboot. It's a meme, friend.
>>47718189
What country?
If painting is your only interest there's probably a bunch of companies that make way nicer models for cheaper available to you.
If it's spain you'd be in luck.
>>47718189
ah shipping might kill most of the reaper cheapness then, depending which 3rd world shithole you might have locally produced stuff
My new bottle of Valejo Dead White has like, grit in it. What do I do about this?
>>47718241
That gold/brass looking colour you have on other spots.
Put a black line running down it if you want to break it up a bit.
>>47718309
Argentina actually. At least we coincide in language
Dear WIP fags, I find myself in need of your sage advice.
Allow me to give some context first though. You see, I DM a PF campaign for some close friends and for combat we use mini's. I've been collecting WH for years so my collection can provide everything except models for the PCs.
Those I buy, convert and paint specifically for the game after consulting with the player on the model and colours used.
A player recently rejoined us after a two year absence and his new PC is basically an Arthurian knight in shining armor, riding a dinosaur because he looked at one power metal album too many.
The model's based on a Dark Elf Dreadlord on Cold One, with the body and head from the Empire Greatswords and the arms and swords from the Empire Captain.
I'm reasonably pleased with it, but I'm having some trouble with the colour scheme.
The player picked "muted gold and Italian racing red" as the colours of his heraldry but didn't care about the colour of the dino.
I took a photo and Photoshopped it to work out some ideas (yellow substituting for gold) but I'm having trouble deciding which scheme for the dino to go with.
Second pic to follow
>>47718309
>If painting is your only interest there's probably a bunch of companies that make way nicer models for cheaper available to you.
Don't count on it if you're looking for 28mm non-historical. The only ones cheaper are different scale and/or genre.
For some reason the 28mm heroic/sci-fi/fantasy market is super expensive compared to the others. It's not just GW. PP, Infinity, AoW, RH, DA are all expensive.
>>47718355
Second pic, this dino is green instead of brown.
>>47718355
>>47718368
brown
but feathered would be the absolute best
>>47717968
Blueberry, my absolute favorite flavour of librarian.
>>47715897
Does that bolter have a telescopic stock?
>>47718034
>Hobbies get waaay more expensive than this.
If I took all the GW merchandise in my collection and sold it on eBay for good prices, I could probably buy one of these purebred show dogs...
... but no way could I afford *two*!
>>47718414
Yes because the old model it's based on had one. They had wire stocks too I think.
Stocks that the marine never uses...
>>47718343
Of course it was gonna be the argenmierda gaucho the one complaining about the price,
Suck it up and spend that money or just don't get in the hobby, but just don't try to do everything cheap and mediocre,Even if you're accustomed to it.This hobby has an entry price point, and it ain't dirt cheap.
Waiting on bases to come in for My Orcs and Goblins for AoS. Gonna have to rebase everything. Don't know what color I want to go with for my Army though. When I was originally painting it I had Blue feathers as a theme on the goblins, but now that I'm adding orcs and Night goblins into the army I think i may want to branch out into something else. I just don't wanna do pink or yellow for a bit. Any suggestions that would go nicely with that orky green?
>>47718343
Well check out infinity by corvis beli.
Reaper are a general option.
Being south America makes it a bit harder.
There's plenty about, we have some companies in the OP see if you can find some local suppliers.
Also there is always tons of facebook groups for second hand stuff.
>>47718424
Upkeep on a high maintenance animal is going to be considerably worse than that of some wargaming miniatures, though.
>>47715261
Where did you get those little leaves
>>47718483
I think he was agreeing with me.
So that would reenforce the point.
>>47715261
>>47718506
Ooh I am also keen to know.
>>47718396
Feathered would be best, but my GS skills aren't up to that challenge. Or any challenge beyond gap-filling and covering "oh shit my file slipped" marks.
Also, GW called them Cold Ones. I guess a nice down blanket was lost during the design.
>>47718431
>Yes because the old model it's based on had one. They had wire stocks too I think.
The old "Strike Force sprues (pic related) came with six shoulder pauldrons, three backpacks, three combat knives, and three Phobos-pattern bolters with stocks. Yes, most of the time, you ended up cutting the stock off.
>>47718483
>Upkeep on a high maintenance animal is going to be considerably worse than that of some wargaming miniatures, though.
Indeed! Purina Pro Plan is *not* cheap!
>>47718559
>>47718506
Basecrafts maybe? A couple companies all make fallen autumn leaves in 28mm.
>>47718506
>>47718559
http://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/inicio/310-miniature-leaf-punch-punches.html
>>47718622
Oh lovely. Thanks kind anon.
>>47713795
very clean, nicely done
Requesting aid
How do I make it look like this cloak was dragged through blood at the hem?
This is nothing but a base coat atm, over a really bad primer job.
So heres the progress on my Masked Rider Ork. All the weapons laying about him have been magnetized for his arm (first time using magnets too!), so he can swap out weapons, next stage is to work on the scarf so that it fits and looks nice around his fat Orky neck
>>47718704
Maybe take your blood paint and water it down a lot and kind of soak the end of the cape in the paint? If it's dragging through and just soaking in the blood it shouldn't be really dark
>>47718704
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1TRBq7GVnJM
He does a technique where he drags the brush along the blade. That might help.
>>47718712
Nice, the combination of that zoggin' 'uge gun and the slugga made me chuckle
>>47718782
Yeah, I didn't want to bog him down with a lot of weapon options, so it was either the deffgun, or a buzzsaw, and then I remembered, he's a zoggin' Ork, and having a fuck off big gun for an arm is pretty much priority.
Seeing plasticard and green stuff conversions before they're primered or painted is like seeing a hot woman before they put on their makeup.
>>47718813
I'd say it's more like seeing a clock without its case.
Update on test model. Did the base colour (still needs a few touch ups) to test the colour scheme I was thinking of. Tested out some of base stuff (hence why base stuff is worked on long before the miniature itself is 100% done.
For whatever reason, when one or two rocks touched the glue they turned black.
>>47718813
I love seeing them, because they allow me to really see the inner workings of particularly complicated conversions, so I can see how the creator used the plasticard and plastic tubing. And seeing modeling work with greenstuff is neat to see too.
>>47718858
The thumbnail makes it look like he's completely naked except for a banana hammock and his hat.
>>47718341
I'll give it a shot. Good looking out.
>tfw enjoying building my METAL BAWKS more than my actual marines
is this a sign i should have gone with mech-guard?
>>47718940
No. You've just been taken over by the spirit of the boxserker.
>>47718962
Next stop: building METAL BAWKS from inside a metal box while wearing boxing gloves.
For the true box aficionado
>>47718962
sorry i meant a rhino
not those silly things
>>47718241
fuck you for posting procrastination shitposts, yes. there are such thing as stupid questions.
>>47718483
you say 'though' yet you are just agreeing
>>47718999
Your words anger the boxserker.
>>47719144
...
i may need to buy some of these dumb boxes now
>>47719159
Your words please the boxserker.I'm actually just a big fan of terrain and fortifications in general, desu.
Mini 4
I may have been a bit ambitious for my skill level
>>47719337
And backside
>>47719350
Waaaay too much. Like the bottom 8th at most.
You also want to feather it rather than just use wash. It just looks like he fell in a vat of waist high cordial.
>>47719384
explain more what you mean when you say feather it
But I had to consider that my friend who I'm painting this for is basically a chuuni so his reaction is probably going to be "Dude, that's so much blood. That's metal as fuck"
I'll see about doing it better on the second try.
Which means I'm probably going to be keeping this particular cleric, since he chooses the better of the two.
>>47719415
what's a chuuni?
>>47719337
>>47719350
Nigga.....
NIGGA.
>>47719469
Japanese term for 8th Grader Syndrome
Someone who loves stupid, edgy shit.
>>47719483
?
>>47719337
Oh jesus, I just looked at his hand again, and saw the overpaint I did on the chain. That looks fucking terrible. And I don't think there's even anything I can do about the hand.
Learning experience I suppose, so it goes.
Good minis wouldn't be impressive if it didn't take time to get good, and this is at least good enough that I'll put it on a table.
>>47719337
>>47719350
Unless he's wading through a literal ocean of gore, his cape, it shouldn't be anywhere that high.
>>47719492
Thin....thin the paint.
Please.
>>47719728
Most of what you're seeing isn't unthinned paint, but the fact that I fucked up the primer so colossally badly. Sprayed too close and thought it was a good idea to get every nook and cranny. Went on so thick that the primer actually cracked during drying. Tried to scrub it off and put a fresh, thin coat on, but it didn't work so well
And then there were numerous spots where I just fucked up painting enough that I had to put too many layers on. I'm trying to adjust the colors of citadel paints with valejo paints, which are substantially thinner, and I'm struggling with consistency and runnyness.
Also putting white paint on black primer is hard, especially when the primer rubs off on my fingers even if it's dried for two days, and I keep accidentally getting black fingerprints on the white cape.
So... can you... stop using... ellipses...?
>>47719700
see >>47719415
Also, he could have fallen
I caved and bought an ultrasonic cleaner. I've got a handful of marines in a 1:1 simple green to water. After 8 more 3 minute cycles I will rinse one off and post a pic
>>47719896
>Ultrasonic cleaner
Explain.
>>47719977
it vibrates a fluid, sometimes water, usually a cleaning fluid, which shakes all the mess free, in this case simple green vibrating off the paint
>>47719977
>doesn't know what an ultrasonic cleaner is
Bro do you even vibrate rapidly?
>>47719977
a small 30 dollar device intended for cleaning jewelry and other stuff. It vibrates.
You put liquid and the things you are cleaning, then turn it on. This model shuts off automatically after 3 minutes. I want it to run for 30 minutes, so 10 cycles.
>>47719991
>a small device
>It vibrates
>You put liquid
>then turn it on
>>47719984
>>47719985
>>47719991
Learn something new every day.
GOD BLESS TECHNOLOGY
>>47720011
then what?
>>47720011
no vibrator I've ever owned has had a compartment that can fit a tactical squad
>>47720038
>I want it to run for 30 minutes
>>47720070
You put the tactical squad in your vagina/anus, Anonymous. Then you use the vibrator to ram them in like you're loading a musket.
>>47719896
Patiently awaiting. Just got my guys out of a 3 day dunk in simple green and there's STILL some paint on them here and there. I guess what I use for primer is really good.
>>47720084
nah
>>47720094
OH SO ALL OF A SUDDEN YOU'RE THE EXPERT AT ANAL MINIATURE ARTILLERY?!
>>47720088
it's weird
I had a model with 10+ layers of unthinned paint, with at least three of those layers being spraypaint on way too thick in undiluted simple green for two months and it only got down to the 6th layer or so.
but then a more recent model went in some rubbing alcohol for 5 minutes and scrubbed clean, white primer and all. I've never seen rubbing alcohol remove primer before.
Anyway, cycle 8 should be finishing up soon.
>>47720129
I diluted it with some water to "activate" the soap. And using an electric toothbrush, I managed to break a few pieces and end up with lots of very minor "eat away" on the models.
>>47720106
nah
>>47720129
Any progress on how it looks? Visible paint off?
>>47720129
oh em gee I cannot wait to hear all about cycle 9!
>>47720157
30 minutes and some scrubbing removed most of the paint. Not a super clean like I would like, but for that I will probably have to use super clean.
>>47720286
Hey, it takes a hell of a lot less time for better results than mine.
>>47717091
What are you talking about? Washes are shades
>tfw you put a tactical squad in a tub of simple green about 7-8 months ago and cant find it
I've moved house about 3 times since I put them in, so they're probably in a box somewhere, but I'm kinda scared of what I'll see even if I do find them ;_;
>finally finish putting my rhino together
>can see finger oils all over it
i knew i had oily skin but fucking christ
warm soapy water will clean that off yeah?
>>47718622
Holy shit this place is a goldmine.
