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WIP General
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WIP General

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
https://mega.co.nz/#F!OgpwzAKS!a5eVE6pOagTTOWEr5tEaEQ

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.co.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>Le happy dying space marine
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_ZgyNoHtjw
>>
I am thinking about buying a johnny and a sly marbo
>>
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>>47202100
To continue off from my last post in the last thread, I have put the wingpack into place, pressed into a GS square-"blob" over the back of the torso and then pressed in around it.
>>
going to buy a Winston & Newton series 7 brush.
anyone else have any experience with these brushes?
>>
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Arquebus
>>
>>47203669
you know the answer to that... and you know what you have gotten.
go USE it and then post back about how your experience went, and add pictures.
>>
>>47203689
>and you know what you will get.
>>
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>>47203689
>>
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Also guys i accidentally snapped that thing that goes in the hole

I have a suspicion that without it it won't fit on the base
>>
>>47203688
get some depth on that red and you're golden
>>
>>47203732
You're fine, clip off the rest and glue it to the base
>>
>>47203732
Cut the rest off and pin his feet to the base, Anon. That should work. You may also have to fill the gap with some greenstuff.
>>
>>47203773
I want to turn a Cryx Kraken into a Knight. The upper half matches well in terms of size but I need ideas for the legs/hips any ideas?
>>
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>>47203499
Everything was nice and greased up and will be left to cure before I remove the wingpack.
Hopefully it will create a nice cast of the pins and shape around the magnet on the pack and create a nice nest to hold it in place.

I also added a 60% to 40% blue to yellow GS mix into and around the arm wire clusters at their bases to help root them in place for further work on the arms.
>>
>>47203688
>>47203734
And might I recommend a *purple* wash for that.
>>
>>47203688
how did you make that base, it's fucking beautiful
>>
>>47203905
looks the the GW martian earth paint, maybe with a wash over it

it cracks when it dries, such that careful application is really pretty
>>
>>47203905

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vLsteSBHEcM&t=16m21s

>>47203927
Yep, Martian Ironearth. You need to apply a thick layer for it to look good and have bigger cracks.
But now i'm kinda worried it's gonna flake off when transporting

>>47203734
>>47203848

Fine, i'll try it. Thanks anon
>>
>>47204035
>But now i'm kinda worried it's gonna flake off when transporting
you can try sealing it with a matte varnish
>>
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Kek
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>>47204109
Needs a "Nightrider" red LED light moving left to right in that visor there.
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>>47197785
Bumping this
>>
>>47204109
had a harder laugh than it deserves

well done
>>
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>>47204270
To be honest, you can find tutorials on painting all over youtube depending on what you want to do. And I don't know for sure but 3d printing stuff often leaves various "unwanted details" on flat surfaced that if you apply a wash to will bring those up and make it look very bad. Obviously I don't know how good the quality is of 3d prints nowadays but mostly if all is fine then it's pretty much as painting anything else.
>>
>>47204109
Looks like an SD Gundam
>>
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repost:
has any of you painted pic related? I don't really know which colors to choose for the kimono
>>
>>47204270
Dr. Faust I think is his name has some nice videos about painting, depending on what type of robots your painting I would check out any of Duncan's videos from the GW channel that deals with mech (Tauren Battle Suits, Imperial Knights, etc.) Some Warmachine war jack tutorials might also help.
>>
>accidentally swallowed one of my magnets when fiddling around with my GK termie's arm

I've tried putting my fingers down the back of my throat, but I can't see the magnet in the toilet/in any of the bowls I've used

What do, lads?
>>
>>47204480
Put a stronger magnet up to your tummy and see if you can feel a "clamp"
>>
>>47204480

Take a piece of iron, or another rare earth magnet. Trace your GI tract. If it sticks (or if magnet, forcibly repels), you've found it. If not, then you have your answer.
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>>47204109
love it
that guy who had that fist bit from some oldhammer kit should combine it with this
>>
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>>47204473
when I painted him I went for a rather muted and earth scheme for the whole thing, it matches the rest of the resser stuff i've painted
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>>47204473
with some other non geedubs models I get put off because of the grey cgi type picture.
I have never seen the quality of the model
>>
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>>47204517
>>47204498

Won't that tear through my intestines or something?

I should probably just phone an ambulance. Thanks /wip/lads. Don't put magnetized bitz in your mouth.
>>
>>47204579
General rule for the new gen of Malifaux figures is equal quality to GW, lower level of detail. There are exceptions, but that's what I've found.
>>
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I've got two questions not necessarily related.

1.) Anyone here work with Reaper Bones figures, how are they? It's hard to really tell how detailed they are from the pictures on the site especially compared to the same figures that are available in metal.

2.) I'm looking for "Savage/Wild Elf" sculpts in a similar style to WHFB Wood Elf War Dancers. Anyone know of any other companies/sites that offer that?
>>
>>47204614
Depends on the strength of a magnet but it shouldn't it's not like your hopping into an MRI machine, just give your physician a call
>>
>>47204614
call your doctor

they can take an xray
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>>47204480
wait, HOW did this happen?
>>
Just waiting for ambalance now

>>47204771

I was trying to magnetize one of my Grey Knight terminators. I pushed the second magnet into the torso, then put a magnetized arm there to see how it fit.

the glue wasn't as dry as I thought it was, so the torso magnet slipped out, onto the arm. I don't have any nails so I had to bite between the magnets to separate them.
>>
>>47204882
>I don't have any nails so I had to bite between the magnets to separate them.
next time use a tool
>>
>>47204942
>next time use a tool
Something with a joke about him being a tool
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>>47204882
>calling an ambulance because you swallowed a magnet
what? why? either just drive/walk/whatever to the hospital or wait and shit it out
>>
>PLA plastic
Any chemical interaction I need to know?
>>
>>47204614
drink water and eat normally for a day or two, eat laxatives if you feel you need to before going to a doctor
>>
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So I'm collecting IG, Steel Legion specifically. I want to keep my models consistent and GW doesn't sell shit for Steel Legion anymore. Anyone have tips on how I can convert a standard commisar model to a proper Steel Legion version?
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Contemptor dread I painted yesterday.
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>>47205765
https://www.forgeworld.co.uk/en-GB/Death-Korps-of-Krieg-Commissar-Set
close enough
>>
What paints would I need to make a bone/skeleton look?

Feel like buying Nids and making them into spooky Skeleton Beasts.
>>
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Venerable Dreadnought I painted today.
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>>47205816
are you going to add any more colours? at the moment it all kind of just blends together
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>>47205821
Officers in the Steel Legion wear skull shaped masks though, including Commisars.
>>
>>47205821
Forgot pic
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>>47204109
Quick, get more Knight heads to use as the shoulder plates on the Dread.
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>>47205856
Might do the shoulders red with gold trim
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>>47204671
I just recieved a bunch of them because I forever suck at painting but I'm desperately trying to improve. Anyways, they definitely look better than the pictures give them credit for. That being said, they still don't look as great as the metal counterparts, the mold lines can be pretty nasty and of course a lot of them come bended and you have to put in a bit extra work to get those pieces back into place. For like $2 a pop, I think they're worth it, especially if you're looking to practice whether it's skills or figuring out a scheme.
>>
>>47205845
Painting is good, but something's odd to me. Maybe he's just too gray and you could change that by making his powerfist white-blue as well, but i'm probably wrong.
The legs are very static unfortunately.
>>
>>47205923
God damn that's a spoopy as fuck commissar.
>>
>>47204109

Build an Imperial Knight out of five Dreadnoughts combining. You can have one Dreadnought with a huge knight weapon on his left arm, then another with a right Knight arm.
>>
>>47206142
Forge world solid resin legs, so can't repose them unfortunately.

Good shout on the claws of the powerfist. Might give it a go.
>>
>>47206232
Welcome to the Steel Legion. Enjoy your stay at Armageddon and make sure you have your protective breathing devices and clothes if you ever go outside or your lungs will melt.
>>
>>47206285
I love Armageddon, a planet with a deadly atmosphere, with half it's surface covered on orkz and constantly under seige from said orks.

And it still supports a population of over 100 billion people.
>>
anyone know where I might get some palm tree kits? the GW kit has been out of production for years, and all my attempts to make some have turned out looking really bad.
>>
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>>47205856
>>47206010
Paint on my phone touchscreen mockup
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>>47206660
lol in those 40 minutes you could have actually painted the model
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>>47204614

Ipecac syrup makes you vomit until you dry heave, if you literally just swallowed this magnet in the last 2-3 hours it is an option. It is not recommended because well...
>>
>>47206500

JR Miniatures.
>>
>>47206487
>And it still supports a population of over 100 billion people.

That's sort of how hive cities/planets work.

You have to breach the hive to take it down.
>>
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>>47203833
after 5 hours, I carefully removed the wingpack to see how it looks.

Looks great! Those 2 paperclip nubs were perfect.
After it fully cures I will cut off the excess with a nice sharp blade.
>>
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>>47207357
And here he is with his other 2 WIP Daemon Princes of Tzeentch buddies.
>>
>>47207376
I like the theme you're going for, anon
I'd like to see birdman in more detail though
>>
>>47207376
The positioning of that Kris is really bad man, you really should reconsider.
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>>47203688
Wash them metallics anon.
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>>47203732
Your right your fucked
I guess Vulkan ISN'T going to live AMIRITE?
Hahaha yeah... just clip off the rest of it and glue straight to the base. Problem solved
>>
>>47203271
That OP pic is so good.

SCP 40k
>>
>>47205923
That skull mask and power fist are particularly awesome on your ALREADY awesome model
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>>47207376
noice
>>
>>47207595
Could you please elaborate? Because I do not agree with it being "very bad" and it might help if you share what might be "very good."
>>
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The squiggening has begun! At the moment it kinda looks like a sad wizard, but this is just the first foundation layer.
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>>47203338
>I am thinking about buying a johnny

Hoo boy! Several to be had this week. Depends on how much cash you feel like throwing around. See items:

141988875254 ($10.50 Auction)
361553960492 ($65.00 BIN)
131808457874 ($65.00 BIN, same seller)


>>47204530
>that guy who had that fist bit from some oldhammer kit should combine it with this

That's me. Noted.
>>
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>>47206253
>Build an Imperial Knight out of five Dreadnoughts combining. You can have one Dreadnought with a huge knight weapon on his left arm, then another with a right Knight arm.

I'll form the head.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EMgsAD3D948
>>
Curious if anyone has an Archaon and if they could tell me how tall/long the tail is.
>>
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>When your big mek is going crazy and your doing mad conversion skills and getting amazing but then you run out of superglue and the stores are closed
>>
>>47204480
You might have to check your poo until you find it vut it should pass.

Whatever you do, do NOT swollow another one. If yoy get two in you they can pinch off your intestines and cause all sorts of nasty problems.
>>
How reliable are these guys selling their left over legs and whatnot on Ebay?

I need some Sternguard legs for a libby kitbash and I don't wanna buy a whole Sternie box.
>>
>>47209357
how does someone have leftover legs? unless they didn't build all the marines in a box, they're either bit sellers, which is fairly common, or possibly recasters, which is more of a resin thing
>>
>>47208221
Interested to see where this one goes.
>>
>>47209357

What could possibly be unreliable about them? It's their fucking business to be selling that shit. They take a box, break it apart, and sell the parts for more than the box cost.

If they have tons of random crap leftover (especially heads, arms, backpacks) you know they're legit. If it's plastic, you know their legit. If you look in their store and all they sell is GW stuff and occasionally entire GW boxes, you know they're legit.

If they're selling FW resin parts, don't buy from China, Hong Kong, or Russian Federation. Don't buy if they're selling identical stuff in huge batches of 5-10. Don't buy unless they are obviously parting out individual kits for profit (e.g. you want to buy a leg, and he is selling legs 1 by 1 and is also selling the other parts of that kit 1 by 1).

If someone has 100 legs and 0 other parts from that kit, he's a recaster. If someone has 10 legs with 5 sold, and 10 unsold heads, backpacks, arms, etc from that kit, he's legit. If he sells FW resin AND GW plastic, he's legit.

eggheadminiatures
thor[random numbers]
bitz galaxy
pbwill

All legit.
>>
>>47209390
Er, that's what I meant.

Sorry, tired and my mental translations from Spanish to English may not be 100% perfect.

Is there an easy way to make sure I'm avoiding recasters?
>>
>>47208221
That's ingenious. Where'd you get the idea?
>>
>>47209435
It's a conversion old as time anon.
>>
>>47209421
pretty easy, it's a bit hard to recast injection molded plastic, and whole websites are devoted to selling bits
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>>47209357
most ebay bits stores are fairly reliable

I've only been burned by one, which I'm a bit annoyed by since he was the only guy selling BaC heads individually.
>>
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My dio is getting sooo close
>>
Anyone have experience stripping finecast? I've been trying to use simple green on some recent ebay finds and after multiple 24 hour baths and scrubs I'm barely removing any paint.
>>
>>47207918
It's just really awkward. U understand that it's a Daemon Prince, of Big Tz no less, but it just doesn't have a good flow, I guess. Like the model seems very active and dynamic, save for the little bent backwards arm.

Might look better with an actual arm, perhaps.

I would just bend it back, have it brandished low, perhaps use glue to make ichor/blood/multicoloured chaos plasma coming off the the blade, with the hand still backwards like a Rakshasa.

Just my opinion, might turn out dynamite. The ones you already have look pretty dope.
>>
>>47210170
I use 99% isopropyl rubbing alcohol to strip forgeworld, which is probably the exact same stuff, takes half an hour to get most off
>>
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>>47207376
>bird
>>47207487
>I'd like to see birdman in more detail though

Have a look. I have stopped at this point in his painting in order to get the other 2 up to the same stage and continue all 3 together
>>
>lost will to paint months ago
>painting desk is a disaster of crap piled on it
>waited for drive to paint to return to me
>every time I think about it, I lose more

anyone else get ... painting depression? I don't know.
>>
>>47210718
Once in a while yeah. Best way to get around it is to paint something you haven't tried before. Try a new technique, or a model outside of what you usually paint (can even be a cheap reaper model, or some terrain).
>>
>>47210718

Yeah. Just ride it out. Play some video games or something. You will get bored of whatever you're passing time with eventually and go back to 40k.
>>
>>47210718
I just got off about a half year of "paint depression" I got out of it by finally getting off my ass and cleaning up room to make a space for the desk I had sitting around collecting dust, now that I finally have my workspace set up it became easy to get right back into it. I think, and I am no expert speaking, but the best way to ease back into it is find a reason to get back into it, either to finish a model, to work on something you havn't gotten to yet, or even just clean up the desk area, and use that excuse to transition into other work, and dont do it regularly, just do it, maybe once every few days or so, and hopefully it will hook back into you as you slowly immerse yourself back in to the hobby. Artists have moments where they lose the interest in painting, writers will put their pen downs for a while after hitting a block, it happens to all forms of creative/hobby work, if you once enjoyed painting, it will come back to you, it just takes time.
>>
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Update on these chumps
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>>47210881
Different person here. I did that before. Set up a paint station that's permanently out. But my problem is wanting to paint but being too lazy or hesitant to pick up a brush and buckle down. It ended up with a super dusty paint station that I really need to clean and wash sometime the next few days. Now I'm procrastinating on that part, even though it'd only take 10 minutes.

If I just had the willpower to force myself to make the first motions, the rest will follow through easily. I can paint for 6+ hours in silence, but I can never seem to pick up a brush.
>>
>>47210921
I completely understand where you're coming from, I am surprised I even found the will to get off my ass and start cleaning, just like you said, the hard part is getting it started, but as soon as I actually stood up and started cleaning, it didn't take long to have everything cleaned up and set up. My advice is literally force yourself to get your desk cleaned, find something important that you do on your day to day, but not like, super necessary (like don't fuck up your job for this) and enforce a rule on yourself that you won't get to that important thing until you have cleaned your desk. Either your apathy will just swallow both tasks and you get nothing at all done, or you finally buckle down and get to work, and once you clean your desk I imagine you'll get right back to painting.

If you want some inspiration, I just finished (well not completely, I still have one or two things left to do, on them, but I have to wait for the artificial water to dry) a set of models I had put down nearly half a year ago, and it feels great, because now I can move on to my other models that I have been leaving in the dust.
>>
>>47211000
>Either your apathy will just swallow both tasks and you get nothing at all done

Great, now my army is unpainted AND I'm going to starve to death.
>>
Jesus Christ, I bought a pair of tapered-tip shears to cut sprues with

Oh my god it's so smooth!
>>
>>47211045
>So you say you found him nearly starved to death in his computer chair? What the hell was he doing, he had food all over the place?
>Before he passed out he mentioned something about "not eating till the dust is gone"
>What a nutter
>>
>>47210919

woah, very nice
>>
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>>47211085
>Before he passed out he mentioned something about "not eating till the dust is gone"

[rubric intensifies]
>>
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>>47207357
Added a rough layer of liquid green stuff over the wire to add some base and grip for when I add regular green stuff later.
>>
>>47211276
man that looks fucking nuts, in a good way
>>
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So I am working on ideas for Ork Nobs, and I have two particular ideas, but I don't think I want to put them in at the same project, or at least not exactly the way I am thinking of. So my two ideas are

>Retarded Ork Nob with two power klaw hands, possible idea that the klaws can be switched out for an assortment of other weaponry in the Nob's possession
or
>Ork Kamen Rider, complete with mask, scarf, and taking ideas from Riderman, has a artificial arm he can switch for other weapons. I bought the torso of the far right Blightking simply because the bug piece inspired me.
>>
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what are these? I could only identify the one with the banner. are they missing arms?
>>
question about primer, will any sort work? Could I just go down to a hardware store and just buy a non-gloss primer?
>>
>>47211473
pretty sure those are empire flagellants
>>
>>47211477
it'll work, a lot of people use auto primer, i personally have used krylon
>>
>>47211542
ahh yep thanks, saved me some money
>>
>>47211473
You need larger photos than that, especially for metal models where detail is lost in the reflections.
>>
>>47211646
best I could get from the ebay listing
>>
>>47204109
>>
>>47204369

Here's what the japs were selling back in 2010

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mPh5FrKFzI4
>>
What the hell can I do with empty sprues, I have so many of them
>>
>>47211976
throw them away. seriously i kept them for 7 years and only ever used like 1 full sprue in total. i just threw them all out. if i ever need a empty sprue, chances are i have bought a model anyway, so i would have an empty sprue again.
>>
>>47212073
Its a shame that GW doesn't offer like, a small payment if you mail your empty sprues back to them, it would be a great method of recycling their plastics
>>
>>47208372

Why do you feel the need to gay up an obvious transformers reference with gay rap music? You gays need to stop inserting gayness into everything you do.
>>
>>47210718

Clean up everything, pick a model you want to paint and work on that.
>>
>>47211473

Flagellants, they have a plastic kit now. The metal squad usually goes for around 12-15 euro around here though this set has multiple duplicates

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-NL/Empire-Flagellant-Warband
>>
So, /wip/, I'm considering picking up a small can of stain just to use instead of Earthshade for washing stuff.

Any suggested color for it? I'm planning minwax, unless I see something cheaper.
>>
>>47205923
Where the hell is that servo skull from? It looks really nice
>>
>>47212233

Why in the world would you do that? Just buy vallejo 60 ml bottles if it bothers you that much, don't go full woodstain.
>>
>>47212250
Because it's cheap and was recommended a long while back.
>>
>>47208832
You just saved my day. I just remembered that I have to buy superglue along with my codex and paints. Thanks, Anon.
>>
>>47212268

Agrax is dark so get one of the deeper stains. Personally I think Devlan, Seraphim (with a mix of Nuln/Agrax) and the lighter browns are more useful, but I don't know what you're using it for so maybe a dark brown is what you need.

Just thin it down and apply it with a brush. The stuff is basically the same as Army Painter dip out of the can which is passable, but mostly 100% speed 0% appearance.
>>
>>47212268
>Cheap
Dude, if you so out of money that you can't spend 5 quids on a pot of Agrax, you have other stuff to worry about rather than the hobby.
>>
>>47205765
Commisars are not part of the regiment so they wouldn't be expected to match.
>>
>>47203688
ThAt's A bIG gUn.
>>
>>47212297

Hm... I've basically been using Agrax for fucking everything, just for depth.


>>47212330

It's amounts over time, anon. I can get eight fucking ounces of minwax for <$5, while Agrax is $4.25 for less than half an ounce.

I don't know what that says to you, anon, but... This is buying in volume.
>>
>>47205885
Take a look at the DKOK quartermaster.
>>
>>47212268

Alright, enjoy ruining your models to save a few coins I guess. Don't say we didn't warn you.
>>
>>47212409

Because they're very different products
>>
>>47210296
Finecast is absolutely not the same as the the forgeworld uses.

Have you never handled finecast?
>>
>>47211068
They're a must have honestly.

I ended up getting some finer ones recently. I do malifaux stuff so it's important not to put too much stress on some of the tiny peices when you cut them out.
>>
>>47211276
How does that stuff go?

Would you recommend it for seam filling along two part bodies for example?
>>
>>47211446
So anyone have any input into my decision?
>>
>>47211477
Many hardware store paints are fine.

What country you in anon?
>>
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Was trying wood grain, it didn't work out like I wanted it to. Septia wash has been recommended, glaze or will a varnish gloss seal make it look better
>>
>>47211976
Rubble, skeletons for scratch build tanks, wooden ceiling beams on terrain, flooring on bases. So many uses.
But honestly only keep 3-4 in a box unless you actually have plans for a large project.

I recently used some fine malifaux sprues to make tiny cubes for alphbet blocks on the dreamer's base.
>>
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>>47206783
Not at 1am in bed. I'm English.

Wanted to get feedback as that's the colour scheme I am using for my Wolf Guard too.
>>
>>47213115
Kamen rider my son.
>>
>>47213147
Take a very dark brown, almost black and very thinly edge just a couple of the darker lines.

Then a wash to bring it together a bit more.
>>
>>47213115
>>47213245

If you do Kamen Rider, you'll eventually have to make a Speed Freak version of Kamen Rider Drive - Car and all.
>>
>>47213147
detail lines seem a little thick and too wavy. Needs black board lines to follow the contour of the vehicle with the detail lines matching that contour for the most part with slight waviness. It would take a long time to paint all that though, in this way however...
>>
>>47203669
I have used the series 7 winsor & newtowns they are great brushes but you need to have your paints thickness like milky consistency If that makes sense
>>
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>>47213272
>>47213245
Very well then, I'll just have to shelf retard Ork for another time. This will be quite the conversion project though. I'll have to figure out a way to make a fittingly Orky helmet.

If it turns out good, I'll even re-make him whenever I get around to buying some bikers.
>>
>>47213274
Will a glaze or a wash soften it?
>>
>>47213461

They aren't magic solutions to make your lines thinner. You dun goofed, it looks like you were trying to paint a wall.

Get a smaller brush and follow tutorials. Look at a lot of examples. Try small pieces first until you like the look of it. You're trying to do a wood effect on a flat surface which is something 95% of us will never pull off because we aren't professional painters with enough time to learn such a high level technique.
>>
Has anyone ever had issue with the shipping times GW tends to have? Mine got delayed three times, once because someone forgot to push a button, twice because they used the wrong shipping service and a third time because they put a customer's name on it so they legally couldn't pick it up for a week
>>
>>47213461
glaze with dark brown 2-3 times, then maybe add a few highlight lines but thinner.
>>
anyone know how i can get the bloodbowl secret weapons/starplayers from games workshop ?

(Netherlands)
>>
>>47210919
Dude its fucking heretical how great these look, when i first saw this scheme posted i loved it.

This photo gas great whites nd the reds are sharp

9/10 would heresy to meet
>>
>>47210919
Wash the gold with a ink to make the detials pop out more tho, the gold just looks like a static layer rather than an inscription
>>
>>47211276
Should have found clear stuff to make the hands float instead, would have been baller
>>
>>47212383

For you
>>
>>47213592
games workshop ones are going to be nigh-impossible to get your hands on
a better bet is to find similar ones on comixininos
>>
Can I base miniatures on foamboard? Or is that a bad idea? It seems to be the cheapest way to make bases.
>>
>>47213709
i am so sad, i am dusting of my bloodbowl league suitcase and noticed the goblins miss all secret weapons (in the league i went for the 3 troll strat at the time, inducing ripper every game) i remember being this close to getting them.

i am gonna buy one set of secret weapons from third partys(anyone know the good ones?) and i was hoping i could get the star players as the actual GW star players.

also how high is the chance i can sell 2 old saurussus and 6 skinks
>>
>>47213735

I think you might be better off making your own in their image

http://www.ebay.nl/itm/BLOOD-BOWL-Orc-SECRET-WEAPON-FANATIC-GOBLIN-BALL-CHAIN-Turncoat-Bowl-2014-/172196003156?hash=item2817ae7d54:g:LQIAAOSwZG9WjlO5

http://www.ebay.nl/itm/CITADEL-BLOOD-BOWL-3rd-Ed-GOBLIN-STAR-PLAYER-SECRET-WEAPON-SCRAPPA-SOREHEAD-/172194840243?hash=item28179cbeb3:g:L~0AAOSwiYFXK14N
>>
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Any advice on how to make these a bit less flat looking? A light gray dry brush or something?

I am also thinking about painting up a Imperial Fists epic 40k army. Do you think painting yellow like this would work on the small scale?

http://www.mengelminiatures.com/2015/11/tutorial-heresy-era-imperial-fists.html
>>
>>47213973

It's camo, it's not supposed to be reflective and visible from a distance
>>
>>47213973
epic looks so fucking good.
>>
>>47213979
True. Just wondering if some of the detail would look better with a dry brush.
>>
>>47214009

I think it would ruin them, but you could add battle damage or muddy up the tracks to make them a bit fancier
>>
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Some progress on my Death Guard.

>>47213973
They look a bit too fresh outta the factorium for me, like the other anon said, some weathering would work great. I'm not so sure about the yellow however. The guide is fine, but it's very dependend on highlights and those don't work very well on 6mm models as far as i can say.
>>
>>47213721
Steel bases with soft rubber pads. If you can't set your minis on a 70 degree incline, your bases are shit.
>>
>>47214042
>>47214025

Ok cheers for the advice. Little bit of mud. Was thinking of adding a few little bits so they don't all look the same. Camo netting and such
>>
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Blocking complete, I'll just settle with the wood print, looks good enough.
>>
>>47214135

Wood print?
>>
>>47214142
Yeah, that's what the brown streaks are supposed to be.

Looks neat, I really don't want to start over
>>
>>47214151

Have you ever seen wood?
>>
>>47214165
my first time free handing it at 28mm scale.

What's the point of the hobby if you don't take risks? personal growth, and a unique look, I got a bunch of scaffolds to paint too, figured I'd start somewhere.

Better than blue/wash/blue and some nail oil on bolt metal finish.
>>
>>47209435
As >>47209465 says, it's the logical conclusion to use a dinosaur for a squiggoth, since that's basically what they are. And I was lucky to find one in just the right size (from Papo) in a toy store nearby. I wanted to break up the very recognizable Stegosaurus profile, so I turned the head upside down and started cutting things off. It would be a waste to not use the cut-off parts though, so I re-positioned them. When the basic jaw shape is in place, I can start the real work of building up muscles and skin.
>>
>>47214151
I like it.
>>
>>47214244
I can't wait to see the end result.
>>
>>47214240

>risks

Or you could follow a tutorial/clean up/put effort into it

What's the point of the hobby if you don't even try?
>>
>>47204109
>"Daddy-Knight, will I ever be as big as you?"
>>
>>47214267
I did watch the videos D-bag, most were about using a wooden rocker tool as a stamp. I even took the advice of other videos and used a etching tool to give recesses for the wash. It didn't work the first time, but it will look better the second time I'm sure.

Spending a few moments on YouTube doesn't make you fucking Rembrandt.
>>
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>>47204671
Reaper bones figs are... OK. The detail is softer, and they vary a lot. Some are almost as good as metal, some are melty shit. Moldlines are an absolute bitch because the material doesn't really scrape, so you have to carefully slice them off.

Having painted a fair few of them, I like the material for big monster type figures for cost reasons and because they don't seem to suffer as much from the less-crisp detail. Pics related - bones figs painted by me.
>>
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>>47214317
>>
>>47214285

What the fuck are you even talking about? What does that have to do with model painting on a flat surface? You have paints and a brush, you don't need stamps or rocket tools. This isn't canvas painting.
>>
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>>47214324
>>
>>47214317
>>47214324

These are pretty nice. Is that a light aimed at the demon or did you do OSL?
>>
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>>47214339
Roachataur's torso is bones.

I forgot to mention: having painted a couple, I have little to no interest in purchasing or painting any more human-sized bones figs, and I wouldn't recommend them.
>>
>>47214341
Thanks. That's just light. I haven't had the balls to attempt OSL yet. I have a plastic frostgrave torchbearer waiting on my desk for a day when I feel adventurous (and not dog-tired from wagecucking).
>>
>>47214356

What a handsome turkish warrior
>>
>>47214165
Lay off faggot, it isn't the best--needs some blending--but hell, if that doesn't look like wood to you: maybe try inhaling less paint thinner fumes and look again.
>>
>>47214421

I'm sitting at a wooden desk and it looks nothing like the work of a mentally challenged 4 year old
>>
>>47214421
>>47214508
Will you two stop making out so loudly, it's really distracting.
>>
>>47214542

I wouldn't want to ruin your /wip/ fueled masturbation session over some guy not being able to paint/handle criticism.
>>
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Anyone know what I can do to remove the sheen from the flat surfaces after I've applied a wash of agrax earthshade? This rusty panel looks fine from this angle
>>
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>>47214713
But under light I get this shimmer on the whole damn thing. Will a matte medium painted over the top remove this?
>>
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Looking for some feedback on this Creed I did. Only been doing this for just under two months and I feel I definitely could've done better, felt like a rushed job.
>>
>>47214734
He looks like he got stung by bees, or he's just really constipated.
>>
>>47214713
>>47214723
How did you get your rust like that? I have my own method at the moment, but I wanna know if yours is different.
>>
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>>47214750
The face is definitely what I feel I messed up the most, but in fairness I think Creed always is in need of a good shit. Also having such a good camera really does help for pointing out those minor details you don't see immediately with your eye.
>>
>>47214757
Black spray followed by Rhinox hide spray. Then a very heavy not quite dry-brush of ryza rust over everything (would have used troll-slayer orange but didn't have any). Basically got everything nice and orange with some brown showing through. Then a drybrush of ironbreaker and finally the wash which has glossed it too much for my liking.
>>
>>47214784
Try painting the medium onto an out-of-the-way part as a tester?
>>
>>47214806
Yeah might try it. I have a matte varnish that I used on the Castelax in the background of first pic but even that kind of has a shine to it. Hopefully the medium works differently
>>
>>47214783
I see a few mistakes, but mostly just a lack of control with the brush. Everything else, beyond the overall detail quality, seems fine for your current experience.

I can't say much though, since I've only ever painted Orks, who are wonderfully simple to work with in terms of skin n faces.
>>
>>47214734
Need to focus on neater brush work. It's particularly obvious on the cloak outline.

Also start from a darker colour and highlight up brighter. At the moment it looks muddy and indestinct.
>>
>>47214784
Once you seal it with matte varnish it will take the shine off.
>>
>>47214937
>>47214904
>brush control
Referring to highlighting and whatnot? I can definitely see that. I may come back to him once I've had more experience because he's a special piece in my army. So far I've really only painted the Dark Vengeance set and Cadians.
>>
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I just pulled all of this out of my attic after getting the urge to dip back into this miniature painting thing. Trouble is, I haven't done it in 10+ years and there's a lot of different paint sets for sale. Do I just grab the Citadel basic set and get cracking? Are there other (cheaper) paints that are worth looking at? Where do I get a spray primer that doesn't cost £10 a can?
>>
>>47215063
Citadel paints are good if you prefer certainty over price, since you know that x colour will look like y. Primer's usually pretty easy to come by at a local hobby store, I found mine for what would be the equivalent about 3 pounds or so and it'd be enough for about 80% of what's in that pic.
>>
>>47214981
It's by no means terrible for a newbie. Check out some tutorial stuff and try to replicate it.

It looks like you started from a white base? Some of your coverage is a bit spotty.
>>
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>>47215163
>white base
I actually didn't start with white, the model's white underneath but I primed it pretty thoroughly with black.

I feel a little bummed but it's all a learning experience, I felt like I was past that shitty stage and thought I did a lot better with my Crimson Slaughter but going back to it shows a lot of similar mistakes. Pic related.
>>
>>47215063
If you have the cash to drop I'd go the vallejo game colour set. Best purchase I ever made.

Otherwise pick your colours and grab the darker shades of those for your base coats. I still recommend vallejo for being chaper and better than citadel.

Many hardware store sprays work well for priming your minis. Look up a local forum and see what they use. Here in Aus for example you go for white knight squirts which is only about 8 dollarydoos which would be something like 3 pounds.
>>
>>47215063

The Cadian plastic sculpts are almost 15 years old by now and they look hideous. Giant bobble heads, silly shoulderpads and ridiculous monkey hands. It sucks that Victoria Miniatures guardsmen are 30mm because at least they're scaled properly. It's the one thing that stops me from starting an IG army, there is no way to make a nice looking force using only GW bits.

As for your questions, Coat D'arms produces what is basically the old citadel line and you can buy primer from Homebase or something, it doesn't need to be miniature painting specific. People in the US use Krylon, I'm not sure what's the best option in the UK as I brush prime with Vallejo Ghost Grey.
>>
>>47215212
You're well past the shitty stage. Should have seen my first 30 or so minis, kill it with fire territory.

Stick with it and you'll be doing pretty nice stuff in no time. Don't be afraid to strip stuff you don't like either. Although I always recommend keeping a few early guys so you can compair every 50 minis or so. It's a great ego boost.
>>
>>47214981
Not just highlighting, if you look close you can see splotches of paint in places it shouldn't be, I have that problem a lot since I too am still learning.
>>
>>47215263
That they are, but they're what I've got. Figure they should be good for teaching myself how to paint before I go mad and fling my life savings at FW stuff. I'm guessing that's the only place you can get nice looking guardsmen models these days?
>>
>>47205831
Look at Deathwing or Warhammer Fantasy color schemes.
>>
>>47215433
Yeah pretty much.

Unless you have the cash and time to track down the old metal guard armies.

I'm still sitting on my steel legion infantry force from years ago.
>>
>>47215453
Got a bunch of original metal Cadians from when I was proper young, though I'm not sure how I feel about them. They look just as ugly as the plastics to my eye, though that may be down to the horrible paintjob on them.

Speaking of which, how do strip miniature? Found a guide that said to use acetone nail polish remover for metal, dettol for plastics. Is that about right?
>>
>>47215213
Remember to test anything that's not guaranteed for plastic minis on a sprue first, and actually give it time to see if it does eat the plastic.
>>
So here are my summer plans, I think I have ten random marines in the bitz box.
>10 tacs
>12 devs
>command squad
stuff on the right are just black templar upgrades
>>
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>>47215634
my dumb ass forgot the upload the picture, apologies.
>>
>>47203271
>Citadel Painting Guides
>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves
>Painting Videos only
>DIY Lightbox
>How to Moldlines
>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
>Le happy dying space marine

But how do I thin my paints?
>>
>>47209286
>whatever you do, do not swallow a second magnet

What have we come to?
>>
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Working on some raiders for This is Not a Test using Wargames Factory Woodland Indians and Survivors as a base.

Goggles and gas mask are Victoria miniatures, a little big for the WG stuff but I'm happy with how they are coming along.
>>
>>47209286
>Whatever you do, do NOT swallow another one.
you'd think we shouldn't have to tell people this,. but as he swallowed the first one, I just don't know.
>>
>>47215715
> Hey /wip/ I've been spraying in my room and I have a really bad headache...
> Hey /wip/, anyone else love the smell of superglue / plastic glue?
> Hey /wip/, I've been prepping a bunch of resin minis and I noticed there's a bunch of dust...
> Hey /wip/ I got some really cool old metal minis that I've been painting while eating my pizza...
> Hey /wip/, so I slipped with my hobby knife...


Only a matter of time before our first magnet casualty.
>>
>>47215793

I once glued my tongue to the roof of my mouth so you might want to add that to the list.
>>
>>47215793
>Hey /wip/, anyone else love the smell of superglue / plastic glue?

Ahh, yes, the intoxicating scent of your brain cells dying.
>>
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>>47215811
How did the glue even get a chance to dry?
>>
>>47204480
Let it pass. do NOT wear a belt; the metallic buckle might cause the magnet to stick to your intestinal walls. Doctors call that an ulcer. That requires surgery.

You WILL need to examine your stool for a while aftterwards. Unless you're super-constipated it'll take at most two days to pass it; if you miss it it will stick to the pipes in your toilet, or if your toilet is enamelware instead of porcelain, the bowl itself.

If you want to consult a doctor, don't get an X-Ray or MRI or whatever without telling your doctor EXACTLY what is wrong with you. Putting that block of neodymium in a strong magnetic field is a very bad idea.
>>
>>47215793
Wasn't there a guy who somehow glued a guardsman torso to his dick once?
>>
>>47215845
>somehow

Yeah I bet it was quite the "accident".
>>
>>47215816

It dried almost instantly, super glue can and has been used to seal wounds on battlefields for the very reason that it sets almost instantly when it comes into contact with flesh.
>>
>>47215881
But the inside of your mouth is wet. How did it dry in a place that is wet?
>>
>>47215816
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate#Medical|

Literally doesn't surprise me at all.
>>
>>47215901
>In general, cyanoacrylate is an acrylic resin that rapidly polymerises in the presence of water (specifically hydroxide ions), forming long, strong chains, joining the bonded surfaces together. Because the presence of moisture causes the glue to set, exposure to normal levels of humidity in the air causes a thin skin to start to form within seconds, which very greatly slows the reaction.
>>
>>47215793

I glue my models together in jg room, is this bad? Do I need to wear a respirator when using adhesives??
>>
>>47214588
There is a difference between handing out constructive criticism, and being oh-so-holy dick-wad passing out the insults like candy on Halloween.
>>
>>47215933

>jg
My
>>
>>47215493

I was more talking about the steel legion, Tallaran, Praetorians etc.

I've used methylated spirits to strip my plastics.
Metals will stand up to pretty much anything, just remember the bases will melt in some stuff if you leave them on.
>>
>>47203338
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
>>
>>47215947
An old housemate left a bunch of 2nd/3rd edition era stuff up there too. Pretty sure I saw at least one Valhallan. Are they now rare and treasured collector's items, or can you still buy them?
>>
>>47215816
It dried with a lack of air. That's why you need to make your parts fit nicely.
>>
>>47215970
If you get lucky you can pick up a force from someone who doesn't know what they have. Keep an eye on ebay and trade forums etc.

They are reasonably rare now though. Dudes like me snapped up like 200 of their preferred flavour and kept them.
>>
>>47213147
Honestly, it looks kinda cool even without looking woody

It's almost like tiger stripes or something
>>
>>47214267
>>47214508
jesus, you're a cunt
>>
>>47215793
>> Hey /wip/ I got some really cool old metal minis that I've been painting while eating my pizza...

on that note, when did GW stop using lead again?
>>
>>47216356
90s I think.
>>
>>47214135
Even if it doesn't look exactly how you wanted it to it does look really cool.
>>
>>47216356
1997

It makes me worried about some of my sisters to be entirely honest
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