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WIP Painting - Converting - Sculpting General
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You are doing a great job edition.

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
https://mega.co.nz/#F!OgpwzAKS!a5eVE6pOagTTOWEr5tEaEQ

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.co.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
>>
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Repostan'
Almost done with it. have started basing since taking the image.
>>
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>>46085788
Frequently requested
>>
>>46085865

This guide is stupid when you could just prime white, wash, then paint white.
>>
Anyone have ideas on turning a Forgefiend into an Onager for Dark Mechanicus?
>>
>>46085859

Why does he have plasma knees?
>>
>>46085859
What's the head from?
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>>46085881
shouldnt be too much work, if you can figure out some sorta shoulder mounts, it should be dead easy, hades autocannon as the gatling rocket launcher, havoc launcher as the daedalus missile, and a reaper autocannon as the twin icarus autocannon. for the other guns, forge world conversion beamer as the eradication beamer and a laser destroyer array or something as the neutron laser
shouldnt be too difficult, just string the guns together with greenstuff cables
>>
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What would be the most closest right arm bits to the left arm in the image? Like, an arm without a... rim? around its wrist.
>>
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Got a lot of the base coats on so far, the base red is way brighter than I though it would be
>>
>>46085993
just realized how pink that looks, its definitely red irl
>>
>>46085896
You don't have furnace-powered legs?
>>46085908
Forgeworld renegade enforcer.
>>
>>46086021
Of course it's FW, damnit anon
>>
>>46086076
Sorry. They're super cool, though.
>>
>>46085961
where what would of to for if of this go this more of and what when how why now if of?
>>
>>46085875

That's exactly what the guide says to do.
>>
>>46085961
Left arm is a mk IV one, check forgeworld or BaC
>>
>>46085875
that will look like shit unless you do 1000 coats of 99% water 1% paint
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>>46086421

The guide is primed black and tells you to work your way up with various off whites.
>>
>>46085993
>4.4MB

Kill yourself.
>>
Anyone have a good guide on painting ashy skin for Raven Guard?
>>
>>46086467

Google "from the warp raven guard skin" without quotes. I'd link it but 4chan thinks it's spam.
>>
Is AP Soft Tone for gold and flesh? What about reds?
>>
>>46086506
Thanks, just what I wanted!
>>
>>46086512

Soft Tone is same as Seraphim Sepia I believe. It's a light brown. You can use it for red but if you want a red wash just get GW or the red AP wash Red Tone Ink.
>>
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I love Ikit Claw's model (Arch Warlock now), but I had an island of blood warlord sitting around, so I converted him into my new arch warlock.

I don't have any green stuff on hand though, so just bits and super glue.
>>
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Hay /WIP/
What do you think of my guardsman? I'm posting him here because I have a question:
how do you guys think I should base him? I can't really decide what I should go for.

Also
>Things you can't really see in this picture
two tone highlights on the fatigues
one tone highlight on the lasgun
one tone highlight on the skin
>>
>>46086429
Not the arm with pistol. I was asking for the silver arm with power maul.
>>
>>46085961
>>46086911

What?
>>
>>46086911
I was answering for that arm. Look at 1c and 1d, it's clearly got the wrist guard of mk iv
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>>46086805
Vietnam cornfields
>>
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hey guys, nooby necron here. any tips for blending colours on lights/orbs?

trying to do it on my tomb blade and thought i was getting the hang of it but once the moot green dried it was much more stark than i first thought.
>>
>>46087415
Nope. I have that model, and that silver arm is clearly not a Mk IV. No wristguard. The right arm is indeed Mk IV though.
>>
slow thread tonight.
>>
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How would I go about making the armpit seam a little less noticable? Liquid green stuff? Sorry for shit pic.
>>
>>46088579

Liquid green stuff might not be thick enough. Try Vallejo plastic putty or solid green stuff.
>>
>>46088579
Sanding it down to a smooth surface, then slicing grooves into it to mimic the normal joint seam in power armor could work.
>>
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Hey anons i just went to my local store and got into the hobby and after the guy showed me the ropes i painted my first mini ever any thoughts tips recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
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>>46089149
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>>46089149
>>46089158
>>
>>46085865


I don't really understand the multiple layering.

I want to do tyranids like pic related (saw it in the 40k general and really liked it) and can't I just prime white, use purplish shade and then one layer of pallid wych flesh or screaming skull?

Whats the difference to this?
>>
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>>46089183
>>46085865


Forgot pic
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>>46089183
GW have an official 'painting tyranids' video where they do that scheme but with a red tone instead of purple. just watch that video and substitute reds for the appropriate purple shades, washes and layers.
>>
what do i do while my washes dry, /tg/?
>>
>>46089602
Jack off lol
>>
>>46089486


Didn't know HW even had a Youtube channel.
Thanks!
>>
>>46089789
no worries, Praise be to Saint Ducan, patron of thinners of paints and Spirallers of brushtips
>>
WIP nobz
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some progress on my deffkoptas.
Metal and rust is almost done (needs agrax washing and some runefang steel drybrush here and there).
Red is just started and need 1 more coat before moving to washing and highlights.
Blue is not even touched, same with checker panels.
Ork skin is saved for last thing to paint, along with details like cables etc.
>>
>>46090229
>blue orks
ABSOLUTE MADMAN
>>
>>46090229
Never understood the obsession with rust orks.
>>
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Wip IF deathwatch battle bro. Tell me for highlights, should I continue the thin grey lines like I did on the left collar or should I do the three white dots like on the right side?
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>>46090229
You didn't prime them?
>>
>>46087868 here.

just finished constructing my other 2 tomb blades. god they are fiddly when putting things like the shield vanes on. love the model though
>>
>>46087868
So first is cover it all in black. Then go from dark green to lightest green. How? Every layer should cover the previous colour except to a small line. That line should get thinner and thinner the further you go on. The lines should all be on the same side so the light should come from a point of the orb. Once done, two tiny white dots on the black layer.
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>>46090154
Gee Gubliz, how come yer mom lets ya 'ave TWO powah klawz?
>>
>>46090432
Why no larger new base?
>>
>>46090565
he woulda had a big choppa but i somehow lost the fucking arm that goes with the last big choppa i had
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>>46090565
I want to know how he lit that cigar.
>>
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Well I did it, and actually got some descent pictures of it as well. Tried my best to remove the shoddy background, and though I'm no expert in Photoshop, this came out pretty good I think (well, good enough for my taste that it).
The base was re-made a third time, as I still wasn't fully satisfied with the look.
All in all, a great experience to paint and I did the model justice.
>>
>>46090583

>and I HOPE I did the model justice*

Damn, that came out a tad more confident that Id hoped for!
>>
>>46090442
Do you even know what bare plastic looks like?
>>
>>46090583
looks really good, i like the action stance. the thing that puts me most off about knights is their hunchback hobble kind of pose.
i also really like the
decorations on the base
the little
building of sorts
>>
>>46089149
Not bad for your first go-round. The edge highlighting is a little overwhelming and messy, but it should look fine on the tabletop. Did you do pure white on pure black? I'd go with a light grey and try to make the lines thinner.

My best piece of advice is two words: wet palette. Make one and use it. It's super cheap, and nothing has improved my painting more.
>>
>>46090579
I like him anon, he looks like a happy Ork.
>>
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Sisters knight - lots of gold trim to go, then cables, skulls, so many cables and skulls...
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>>46086466
Fuck off Ethiopia
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>>46090583
how big is that thing? Is that a bunker on the bottom?
>>
>>46090701
Ruins of a church.
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>>46090701

No its bits and scrap from an old GW building set I carved up, put it in line as so to look as the outline of a broken building, long since destroyed.

>>46090636

I know, the kit itself is amazing! You can re-pose this thing just about however you like.
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>>46090674

Your white's nice and flat, but it's got that 'thin your paints' caked-on texture. How many layers did it take to get it opaque?
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>>46090755
>>46090761
oh okay didnt know. maybe add a steeple, like some european churches have. makes it more obvious.
I thought it was a bunker sorry
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>>46090826
ugh like 5 - i use crappy paint because i'm cheap, but the "antique white" i used was particularly terrible. I think I'll just mix my own with brown and white from now on.
>>
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>>46091068
I've had VERY good results with Vallejo paint, you can get their dead white for about $5 a bottle and they come in droppers so you don't need to worry about it thickening on you. Pic related; this is over a black primer after about 4 layers, slightly thinned with water.
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>>46091232
slick, I've really got to upgrade so I think I'll do that Anon.
>>
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>>46091255
If you've a bit of cash in pocket, you should probably spring for the Game Color 70-bottle set. It's about $220 on Amazon, but worth every penny.

The only thing it's missing is washes, and frankly, you should stick to citadel pots for those. My knight uses them (in his case, nuln oil).
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How do you get past a slump?

I haven't painted in almost a month, and I've lost the motivation - how do I get my mojo back? I've only got something like 8 models to paint but I just can't bring myself to do it!
>>
>>46091255

No use buying a $157 model, if your going to paint it with shit paint.
You would do well in investing in a few paints from Vallejo as >>46091232 mentioned, they have a great range.
>>
>>46091309
hello fellow slumper, I've been in a bit of a slump myself recently. In my case it turned out I just hated working on one particular model and as soon as I took a break from it and tried something completly different things suddenly felt ok again
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>>46091325
true dat - i have a bit of cash so i may purchase the game color intro set to get going
>>
>>46091309

Force yourself to start painting, one you get back in the rhythm moving on to the model after the first will be easier.
>>
>>46091232
I've personally had better results with VGC Ghost Grey than with VGC Dead White as a white color. It's almost as bright but applies evenly in 2 layers rather than 5+, with the added benefit of being able to edge highlight with Dead White afterwards.
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>>46091325
>No use buying a $157 model, if your going to paint it with shit paint.

This. I hadn't been painting for a month before my brother bought me my Knight kit.

I took one look at it and said, 'If I paint this NOW, I'm going to ruin it.' So I went ahead and painted an entire 1000-point army first (I play Guard, so it was something like 36-40 models).

THEN I took 2 months to paint the knight itself. You've already seen the result:
>>46091302
>>46091232
>>
>>46091396

I considered it early on, but the House Taranis paint scheme demands the whitest white possible. I think it turned out okay.

Of course, then I fucked up the transfer. Oh well.
>>
So, I posted this question in the last WIP thread, but, does anyone know of a place where you can buy miniature molds in 28mm for 40k/BFG stuff (ala HirshArts and Prince August)?

I've youtubed, Googled, gone onto casting forums, but, I haven't found anything so far.
>>
>>46091309
Sometimes painting something you don't HAVE to paint can help, like a nice HQ model you like instead of trooper after trooper.

Get your brushes and paints out, so if you want to do it you don't have to overcome that extra hurdle.
>>
>>46091902
>saleable molds for copyrighted minis
I'm gonna go out on a limb and say those don't exist, because that'd be illegal; it's deliberately reproducing copyrighted product with the intent to sell it.

You'll need to do that shit yourself.
>>
>>46092005
I'm not saying molds for 40k stuff explicitly but all of the various NOT!40k stuff out there - shit, they have molds of space-hulk flooring (including Nid infested stuff - shit looks cash) and tons of terrain stuff, but, I was hoping for at least some kind of generic ship-base or infantryman I could later modify.
>>
>>46092057

Ah, I see. Well, in that case, you're looking at dirt cheap stuff anyway...why do you want to cast it yourself?
>>
>>46092089
Well, if I could find something as a suitable superstructure for a BFG ship - that'd allow me to bypass the entire online market/ebay haggling required to build a suitable fleet, and if I could find some generic infantryman, it'd be easy to modify him to fit into countless games - not just 40k/TnT or whatever.
>>
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>>46092089
>why do you want to cast it yourself?

'cause geedubs never gives us enough combi-weapons!
>>
>>46092151
my nigga,

Casting in pewter though - risky. Price of tin is skyrocketing.
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>>46090583
That ruined bunker on the base looks pretty fucking neat.

No but seriously, great model.
>>
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>>46085859
hella rad
>>
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Combining these two kits again, and I'm amazed on how compatible they are together!

He'll probably be a Chaos lord of Nurgle in Power-armor.
And yes, I will add greenstuff in the gaps, maybe make armor on the legs as well.
>>
>>46085859
What's your technique for the cloak? I have the distinct feeling that I'm fucking up painting my BA termie captain's cloak.
>>
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I sorta want to run a Dread Mob list, but I dislike the fat, pregnant lady look of Gor/Morkanauts.
Any tips or cool pictures of them being converted into more imposing and less fatty appearances, or at least made to look a bit more dynamic than the standard poses they got?
>>
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Made some good headway on this beast, still need to add a few details and base em. Debating on whether or not to add a glow effect to the eyes/armor, or keep as is with the wings providing enough of that look. Any good ideas for a base? I'll be doing all my khorne at once and while the classic volcanic bases would look good, I'm open to suggestions.
>>
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>>46092803
And the back
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>>46092764
Grab a mega dread for the same cost and feel better about both the model and rules.
>>
>>46092855
Meh, I hate working with resin, and I don't really find the mega dread to look any better than the gorkanauts.
>>
>>46092764
Best suggestion/conversion i've seen is replacing the legs with treads
>>
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>>46092924
But then it isn't stompy.
I want to keep it stompy. It is the big dumb looking belly that bothers me.
I have been thinking about maybe converting it into some sort of giant maw like thing akin to the one in this thing.
>>
>>46092832
I will never not hate the tail on that model.
Still, he's looking good.
>>
>>46092993
That would actually look cool as hell if you did it right
>>
>>46093020
I'm thinking of making the maw out of plasticard or some shit.
Then ad something to extend the legs a bit so that it doesn't look like it is squatting for a shit, like the standard gorkanaut models look.
>>
Any tips for thinning metallic paints?

My go-to thinning solution (a 10/90 mix of acrylic flow enhancer/water) just separates the paint.

What's your solution wipers?
>>
>>46093204
acrylic medium (Lahmian Medium also works).
and keep mixing. The flake is very light, so it'll separate rather easily.

Most forms of thinning tend to separate the flake from the carrier, so usually you just need to work quickly in my experience.

I often use Tamiya X-20 thinner, where the separation effect is even worse, but you can get some really cool shiny metallic layers with it, though you won't have more than a handful of minutes to use the paint once you add it.
>>
>>46093306

Ty anon, I'll try and find some medium
>>
>>46090674
GW should have put two loose missile tip into the sprues so people who get triggered by every single knight missing the same two missiles from the launcher can ease their autism.
>>
>>46094017
It kinda makes sense that if they're all only missing two, it would be the same two (I mean, lol the Imperium and standardisation), if they're the sensible ones to fire first.

But now that I know that it is pretty triggering desu.
>>
>>46088579
Clean yer moldlines on that flamer and his left arm
>>
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starting on this bitch. it's really annoying to paint the finecast models... is purple too dark for the forest spirit creature at her feet?
>>
Need some input.

I decided that since I'm really bad at putting on transfers, I was going to use some color to indicate the kind of Marine a model is.

For example, my Tactical marines have a bright red kneepad (brighter than their dark red armor), assault marines have a green and so on.

But I've run into a problem. For Marines that have legs without knee-pads, what should I do? Change their pauldron trim?

Paint one of their pauldrons the squad color?
Also, it's too late now as the heads are already sealed in with plastic cement, but if my terminators are a dark red, what color should I have made their helmets?
>>
If you were a complete baller, how would you incorporate purple into a necron army?
I really like the vallejo lichen purple or whatever its called, but I'm not sure how to do my army up with it and keep it classy looking, and still like robots made for ass kicking. I think I want to keep their glowing bits green as well for maximum overdose. Ideas? Specifically for the vehicles
>>
>>46094594
purple is the colour of royalty, and it was a very expansive and hard to get colour.
Unless you want them to look like pimps you can only add very very little purple.
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>>46094691
>very expensive and hard to get colour
>on space robots
>>
>>46094017
Tell me about it. I filled it on 2 of my Knights with Greenstuff missile heads.
>>
>>46094544
>bad at putting on transfers
What?
Why don't you get better at that instead of fiddling around with halfassed ideas? It's literally not much more than
>cut it out
>dip in water for a second
>put on paper towel to let it soak
>apply water to the area with brush
>slide transfer over
>siphon/dry off excess water
>let dry
>apply matte coat over it

Some people like to put on a gloss coat first but it's really optional.
>>
>>46094845
Shaky hands leads to fucking up cuttting the transfer properly.
And for matte coat... what do you mean? Like 'Ardcoat?
>>
>>46094882
I use Lahmian medium for it to 'matte down' the shinyness of the decals.

And try a surgical knife for cutting em out. Put down the tip where the cut is supposed to start and lightly roll the curved blade along a straight line.
That is if you're not a Michael J Fox level ambulatory miniature earthquake.
>>
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>>46085788
>>
>>46094960
Alright anon, thanks.

I'll cover up the kneepads (luckily I only did a few) and get to applying transfers.
>>
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>>46095011
>>
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>>46090755
>>
>>46095011
>>46095124
I don't think people that don't know how to take photographs will have photoshop installed.
>>
>>46090583
Hey anon, could I have the list of paints used for your project? I've got an airbrush, and I'd like to try painting mine up like the same
>>
>>46092764
The answer to your question is obviously an abundance of crotchguns.
>>
I am thinking of getting an airbrush for painting the first 2-3 layers of the kingdom death monster: monsters before swapping to a real brush. I'm an experienced painter, but these things are just too big. Any suggestions on which set to get?

Thought about spending 150-200 Euro
>>
Anons of /WIP/, I need thine guidance:
I'm finally getting around to repainting my 30 or so Chaos Space Marines. I chose the classic Black Legion color scheme. That means black power armor. Tons of it. I'm trying to figure out a good way of painting it without (or minimal) edge highlighting.
This is what I came up with so far:
- black primer
- dark gray on the whole model, but from the top only (like zenithal highlighting, but more generously)
- lighter gray more scaresly, as the final highlight
- black wash in the recesses
Everything, but the wash done with an airbrush.
Is it a good idea? What colors would you suggest?
tl;dr: wanna paint black power armor without/with little edge highlighting; rate my step-by-step and suggest colors plz
>>
>>46095346
That's why it's step 2 and 3, it comes after the stuff in the OP pic.
>>
>>46095648
Sounds like a plan.
I remember some marines that were painted grey and washed down with black. Looked pretty good.

I also remember seeing marines painted in a old school 60s comicbook highlight style. So with highlights painted on the armor plates rather than the edges. Works too.

As for the colors I'd look into Vallejo they should have what you need.

The thing is that the new plastic models from DV and the Raptors are littlered with tiny details all over. So maybe the effect of a soft gradient highlight might be lost on those models because their surface is broken up with all those tiny parts.

In any case you should paint a tester to see if it looks how you imagined it.

Once you've painted the mini you could also give the models a wash with blue or brown ink to tint the black and give it a little more visual interest. Grey tends to look a little flat usually. Or just use something with a tiny speck of blue in it for your middle highlights.

Post progress pics, I'm curious to see how it is gonna turn out.
>>
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>>46085961
What can you most the least?
>>
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I did a fit with green-stuff, so - keep the cloak? yay or nay?
>>
>>46089190
Is this a meme now? Seen it in like 4 threads.
needs more church
>>
>>46095940
Thanks Anon. I sure will make a test model first. The only problem is the color selection - I suck at picking colors without looking at them in action. Oh, and Vallejo is my go-to brand anyways
>>
>>46096078
I think it's just one anon who is too lazy to get off his ass and paint. So he posts pics of the paint job he wants to do, instead of just doing it.
>>
>>46094544
Blood angels color code squads by helmet color. Red is tactical, blue is devastator, yellow is assault and gold is veteran. Really simple stuff.
>>
>>46096070
I think it looks good!
>>
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>>46096500
>Blood angels color code squads by helmet color. Red is tactical, blue is devastator, yellow is assault and gold is veteran. Really simple stuff.

Yes! The helmet colour is the designator of function.

In addition, we paint squad markings on the right poleyn instead of the right pauldron - black poleyn with red blood drop for fourth Squad, for example - so >>46094544 may have been on to something...
>>
>>46096500
>>46096740
And now I realize I've been making knock-off Blood Angels.

Fuck.
>>
>>46089183
The difference is just paint it on a fucking gaunt or something and work it out for yourself.
>>
>>46096070
That looks pretty rad, I'd say keep it. Maybe try see it you can do something with it to stick a backpack on it, if he's going to be a marine.
>>
>>46095248

Every time this meme gets posted a bunch of psionic kittens gets sacrificed to the golden throne.

It is glorious.
>>
>>46096894


The OP of the pic here.

Yeah, I'm rather afraid to start painting. I don't want to fuck it up and spend waaay too much time planning it.
>>
>>46097165
it's pretty hard to fuck up a gaunt so bad that it can't be fielded. go for it, or some people will start shitposting in response to that trygon pic soon. Get some irl results out there to break up the chain of requests
>>
>>46097165
Just paint a hormagaunt dude. Seriously, you're going to be painting lots of gaunts, you might as well get one out the way now.

And if you do fuck it up, it doesn't matter because after a few games you'll stop taking hormagaunts in your armies. Win win!
>>
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>>46095624
pls respond

I'm a cute Asian girl and you are bullying me
>>
>Knocked over my Agrax Earthshade
>It spilled into my keyboard
>led shit is going insane now
DUNCAN STOP TRYING TO POSSESS MY KEYBOARD
>>
>>46097452
MEMED
>>
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>>46097452
>DUNCAN STOP TRYING TO POSSESS MY KEYBOARD

His power is great, anon.
>>
>>46095624
>>46097384
Iwata Neo is a nice beginners brush, Badger most likely has some nice ones too. Though on the compressor front, I can't really offer much advice.

I have a modest oil compressor, which is quiet, but expensive, quite a bit outside your stated budget.
>>
>>46097452

>field keyboard as necron c'tan proxy

all good, mang
>>
>>46097300
>>46097316


Thanks, I'll start this weekend with a few termagants. I'll just try it out


Luckily I don't plan to use any hormas.
>>
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Thousand Sons Sorcerer (Lord).
>>
>>46097384
the whaaag had a rather extensive thread pinned in their WIP section a while ago.
old info should still be good though.
>>
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>>46097699
back
>>
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>>46097723
sponging up the green under layers of the dark green marble force weapons.
>>
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>>46097753
the sponge bits and greens setup. did two lite shades of black after the greens all dried.
>>
>>46085788
sup /tg/, Im going to be converting about 100 AoBR orks into mutant rabble for my 30k army with a simple headswap, and some weapon conversions.

What kind of heads should I use? Im torn between crypt ghouls, plague monks, and ogres.

thoughts?
>>
What does /wip/ listen to while painting?

I found this recently via a friend:
https://youtu.be/CPYJgjRV0XQ

I used to listen to the Les Miserables soundtrack but I always cry at Empty Chairs and Empty Tables.
>>
>>46086347
You ok anon?

>>46090583
It could work better if the ruined building was more discernible, like maybe a church spire or something like that
>>
>>46098072

Vidya gaem music, 8bit, especially shovel knight and remixes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IL_gP-73FeI&list=PLf8YxLhsAJTOOz1fgW-ZtOBrxZkh3xgtb&index=2
gets me hyped to paint some cheesy 90s cartoony minis.
>>
>>46098144
Base is a frame, never want it to over due the subject.

Less is more.
>>
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>>46098311
>>
>>46098072
mostly black metal, some jazz
>>
>>46098337
really nice looking paintjob! the pose is a little prance-y dance-y
>>
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What paints do you guys recommend for painting orkz ?

A friend of mine is starting up and asked me to help him with his shopping list of paints.
He has already bought primer.

Is pdf related a good start ?
>>
>>46098311
>>46098337

realy noice mate
>>
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>>46098406
idea sorta popped up after thinking of letho
>>
>>46098503
Green shade is useless, you won't notice the difference on a green base.

Evil Sunz is a layer paint, you'll want whatever the equivalent of Mephiston Red is now adays for a red base.

Buy Ulthuan Grey for all of your white, you never paint white to reflect white.

Heavy Sienna and its GW counterpart for brown base, Tallarn flesh equivalent for highlight.

Mordian Blue equivalent for blue base. Teclis Blue for highlight.

Gunmetal for guns.

Eshin Grey for black highlights.
>>
>>46098031
Crypt ghoul heads are tiny, so they're probably not a goer with ork bodies.
>>
>>46098503
Wash: Nuln oil. For everything. Especially silver metallics and every area that needs to get toned down.

Red: Get GW Mephiston red as base coat red. One layer is enough for most orky jobs, followed by evil sunz scarlet.

Green: I mostly use Game Color goblin green on a white coat, one slightly diluted layer is enough, cover the recesses, let the white coat do its job on the details to brighten up the green. Wash with agrax after, touch up with goblin green, or gobling green and khaki mix (especially grots).

Straps: Having a few different browns is always handy (to quickly do mud, leather, horns and stuff on the same model).
A medium/oak brown + bonewhite should be the minimum

Teeth: White? Don't do that. Use the brown+bonewhite combo + enough wash.
Never use white on standard shit on your models if you can avoid it, it should be kept for extreme highlights.

Metal: Solid choice. Having a copper, gold and tin tone is also handy to have variation without a tacky look.
I recommend having Game Color Brassy brass, tinny tin and hammered copper in storage, just in case. These handle like heaven, have awesome finishes with nuln or agrax, and have the perfect orky vibe to them imo.

Rust: Try this: Get a nice orangey brown and dilute the gork/mork out of it, until you can see pigments. Splotch that shit onto nuts and bolts. Wait. Strip of excess water, and let the pigments collect at the details, like a pseudo pigment-wash. Repeat with another brown. Done.

Another nice tone to have: Game Color heavy charcoal.
It's not black, it's not grey. It's something on its own. Perfect coat for rubber, leather (tires and bika jackets anyone?).
>>
>>46098072
D-Rok of coarse!

>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LE1wSSZ-iFs&list=PL4cW4wDSrvYODcM7VnzqfR9FPF6nMmlRD
>>
>>46098632
Ive seen other people do it and it just makes the ork bodies look more bloated and mutated.

Wouldnt skaven heads be just as small?
>>
>>46098879
Skaven heads are slightly larger than crypt ghoul heads. (I only know this because I had the idea of putting skaven heads on crypt ghouls - basically, they look too big.)

Have to admit I haven't actually tried CG heads on orks myself, maybe it'll work, but my feeling is they're too small.
>>
>>46090583
looks amazing m9
>>
>>46090582
its a cyborg head, not a cigar
>>
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Camera fucked up the colours somewhat, but anyway - progress on my standard bearer.
>>
Need to finish his legs, and bend the sword with some heat.

Plus the base.
>>
I've got a metal model whose paint just keeps falling off, no matter what how well I prime him. However, he needs to be based and is on a slot base. Do you think it's possible to spray varnish and then do the base (with texture paints)?
>>
>>46098941
aw, shit, skaven heads are too big for crypt ghouls, that was one of my plans as well. Do you have the bitz handy for a picture comparison?
>>
>>46098311
>>46098337

noice
>>
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>>46099433
>I've got a metal model whose paint just keeps falling off, no matter what how well I prime him.

You're not... handling this model, are you, anon?

>However, he needs to be based and is on a slot base.

OK, I've been there before.

>Do you think it's possible to spray varnish and then do the base (with texture paints)?

Yes. The texture paints should cover just about anything.
>>
>>46099436
Dude they're mutants. If something looks off just sculpt a hood on them to cover the transition. Or give them a trendy scarf. Or fur. Something along those lines.
>>
>>46099355
That shit is dope, son.

>>46095648
This is a good idea, and I'm curious to see how it will look. The only answer is to grab a test model and try this mad plan out.
>>
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>>46099531
>You're not... handling this model, are you, anon?
Not really, I'm just finished painting him. It's also not as bad as I first made it sound, sorry. I just keep finding tiny flecks of paint missing on his hair and boots. They're easily fixed, but it's annoying.

But I'll get him varnished then.
>>
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On a separate note, got that hat sculpted.
>>
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>>46099436
Blutacced the head back on. Sorry for the shitty photo, it's night here so it's going to be like this or too bright with flash. But hopefully should show that the scales are a bit off (even considering that the blutac elongates the neck).
>>
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>>46099436
Here's a crummy shot of some my feral plague monk converts, plague monk heads on crypt ghoul torsos for and idea of size.
>>
>>46099842
oh, thats nothing, I can shave the head back to the jaw and it'll look fine.

>>46099588
I thought he meant it was just totally oversized.

>>46099855
that looks fine.

how do we feel about skaven heads on orks?
>>
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>>46099855
>>
>>46099901
Hm, probably be pretty small by comparison. Orks are bulky with huge necks.
>>
>>46099901
Fair enough, sorry for slightly exaggerating the scale mismatch!
>>
>>46098337
Nice on bruv
>>
>>46099995
yeah, but big-body-small-head looks great for mutants. They'll look all roided up.

Some of my rabble have zealot and rending btw, and thats what the orks were gonna be.
>>
>>46097803
those old citadel paints hnnnnngggggg
Got a few of them myself, loads of sunburst and bad moon yellow, emerald green and enchanted blue too. They never run out. So good.
>>
>>46100157
I lost my collection of them during a move. Ten years on and I'm still checking if my parents found 'em hidden somewhere.
>>
>>46100218
Urgh! Emeralrd green too! A million miles better for Dark Angels edges than Moot Green.
My snakebite leather seems to have lasted over 20 years too.
>>
>>46099361
Please tell me you committed this sin to a recast and not a $85 model.
>>
>>46098072
it depends what i'm painting, if I listen to any music at all I'll try and match the tone of whatever the model is.
If not music then I just tend to listen to Dr. Who audio plays
>>
>>46100402
I still my ancient Goblin Green pot.
>>
>>46099361
bro, the proper pic guide is in the OP, so no excuses on that picture. because the pic is so grainy and out of focus, I'm assuming that you're paints are too thick and shades are all off, and that you did not clean the resin beforehand. Get a better quality picture and we will all be able to critique it properly. in the mean time, the sentiment >>46100426 holds stands.
>>
>>46100456
I still have that, snot green and the green/ork flesh wash
>>
>>46098598
>Green shade is useless, you won't notice the difference on a green bas
this is true, HOWEVER
if you prime your orks with light brown, you can paint skin yellow, and then give it 1 or 2 washes of biel tan, to get very noice skin with close to zero effort
>>
>>46100157
>>46100218
>>46100402
>>46100456
>>46100563
Did you guys try the Coat D'Arms paints?
They used to make the old Citadel Paints.
>>
hey /wip/ I've recently bought some ziterdes dead earth paste and the "paste" is super dry like chalk, should I just add water to it? or should I just throw it and my money into the trash and go buy a new one?
>>
>>46101814
Get in contact with customer service and have them replace it.
>>
Do you represent company by the right pauldron's trim color still?
>>
>>46101862
ill just try to add water and then let it partially evaporate, if it doesn't work i'll just get a new one
>>
>>46085865

I tried this out, but the armour looks too creamy/warm. Any advice for a cooler/grey color scheme? Currently using MSP Misty Grey, but its still a little to not white
>>
>>46102096
I'd start with Russ Grey (or whatever non-GW equivalent you want to use) as the basecoat and work up from that to Misty.
>>
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>>46101872
>Do you represent company by the right pauldron's trim color still?

I assume this question is for >>46094544, because >>46096740 would insist on marking the right shoulder pauldrons with coloured blood drops and painting the trim black.
>>
>>46090674
That's looking good. Maybe I should dig out my two leftover Armorcast Apocalypse launchers and strap them onto something. That's about 9" tall, yeh?
>>
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>>46101872
Which chapter?
usually it's both shoulderpad trims, somtimes one, sometimes the chest eagle's color and sometimes a helmet stripe, helmet color or something else like the kneepads.

For codex chapters both trims are the way to go though.
>>
>>46102728
Not BA, but neat.

>>46102771
I'll just do both shoulders then.

>Did all black on a squad of tacticals for their trim

Guess I'm running my homebrew's fifth company on the table.
>>
>>46102771
I've always liked that little preamble with the terminators and chaplain.
>>
>>46097384

2nd for Iwata Neo, I bought my first airbrush a few months ago and am already on my third, which is a Neo. I like it a lot.
>>
>>46100456

For painting your base rims, of course?
>>
>>46102502

Thanks anon, I'll give it a shot
>>
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Does Savage Ork Guy still come around? I've been taking a break from /tg/ and modeling for a while for more /k/ activities and it doesn't look like the imgur's been updated lately, I could be missing something though.

http://imgur.com/a/YZjef#16
>>
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>>46104153
>Does Savage Ork Guy still come around? I've been taking a break from /tg/ and modeling for a while for more /k/ activities and it doesn't look like the imgur's been updated lately, I could be missing something though.

Oh, man! You *have* been away!

SavageOrkAnon is a *girl*, and she's been *busy!*
>>
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Made some progress on my Father-Knight, the purple loincloth turned out that colour complely by accident, I was going for a brighter shade but I think it goes ok with the quite muted main colour of the armour.
Next big part of the model i'm gonna be working on is the sword, will probably just go for either black or really bright silver.
>>
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>>46104200

Huh, no shit?
Why did she name her imgur account savageorkguy then?
Are those screamers hers? They're beautiful. I've always wanted to see how she'd handle some Tzeentch shit. I cannot stress how much I fucking love bright colorful models.
>>
>>46104404
Probably because they didn't want to stir up the creepers. And yeah, there's some horrors too.
>>
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>>46104472

I need to see...
>>
>>46104404
>>46104472

Girls call themselves guys all the time. You don't go "hey guys...and ladies."
>>
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Dark vengeance librarian dude that I'm turning into a malleus inquisitor with power armor, demon blade and hell rifle.
>>
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>>46104520
From her Tumblr.
>>
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>>46104520
>>46104776

Thanks but I meant I wanted to see the Horrors she painted lol
>>
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>>46090583
>no church
>>
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>>46104822
Herp.
>>
>>46104669
*forgot to say, pls gib C&C
>>
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>>46104904

ohpleaseohplease tell me there's more
>>
>>46104669
I think red robes and armor is a bit too much
>>
>>46104976
I'm a poorfag so I'm pretty limited in color selection, but I guess I could use Celestra Grey instead (or more Leadbelcher) on the armor. You think that'd work better?

also part of the reason I like the red is b/c there's silver bits on the shoulders that I don't think would go with anything else.
>>
>>46104669

why would you do this

if you need us to tell you how bad it is im afraid you have a lot to learn about conversions
>>
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>>46104956
>ohpleaseohplease tell me there's more

Yes, there is.
>>
>>46105067
if you are going to stick with red then atleast make them different shades, at the moment you've got two completely different materials the same color and it looks really odd, at least to me
>>
>>46104776
Her other online stuff uses a portait of her face. The ham is a wordplay to do with her website I guess.
Her fb isn't private either. I just followed up some info I saw in Mr Justin's Secret Weapons Miniatures fb feed to see more of the models, but now I kinda accidentially doxed her by googling. Some people should be more careful about their online presence.
>>
>>46105093
Well, please tell me. I'm pretty new to 40k and modeling so I need any advice you can give, nooby or not.
>>
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>>46105122

ohpleaseohplease keep dumping her stuff
>>
>>46091309
>acquire meth
>use meth
>Slaanesh paints your models for you
>>
>>46105242
http://bearshapedham.tumblr.com/
>>
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>>46105315

Thanks, anon.
Damn she's cute.
>>
>>46105210

ok

dont convert models when you are still learning and look up some painting guides on youtube like warhammer TV

follow the instructions for your first squads then experiment later so you dont waste money making silly looking things that you will regret later on
>>
>>46105436
whats the harm in messing around if, at worst, I can just strip it and start over?

Not like I'm gonna be using the DV models for anything else anyway. My main army is Inquisition.
>>
>>46105559

That Librarian is $5 anyways there's no harm.

I bought one for the hell of it, couldn't manage to scrape the bandana DA symbol off, and said fuck it.
>>
>>46105619
>couldn't manage to scrape the bandana DA symbol off, and said fuck it.
Couldn't you just cover it with GS? or cut the torso above the belt and swap it for something else.
No need to let a perfectly good 5$ Librarian go to waste.
>>
>>46090583
I wish it had a small building at the bottom, perhaps of religious significance, mybe a spire or something....
>>
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Does anybody know how forgeworld do their death korps stuff?
>>
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some almost completed Deathwatch.

Just gotta greenstuff, and paint the Blood Angel icon. And base them.
>>
Does anyone have a guide on osl lighting for glowing eyes, preferably on something like a big monster rather than a small helmet?
>>
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>>46107160
and a WIP fleshtearer, and charcaradon.

i tried to copy the weapons on the FW Tyberos model. and ill be doing free-hand tribal stuff all over his legs and bone-skirt.

the photos a bad angle for the fleshtearer. the buzzsaw is on the backpack as an emblem, not mounted to his head!
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