No WIP thread on /tg/?!? Emperor's Teeth! That's HERESY!
>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here
>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart
>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
https://mega.co.nz#F!Wl5DAbCb!TYxZG4CgX_x-NJu7JBwbZQ
>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA
>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
[YouTube] How to Magnetize a Tyranid Carnifex (embed)
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/
>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg (embed)
>Stripping Paint
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...
>Ventilate, motherfucker
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf
>Previous thread:
>>48163825
>>48225273
Wait, that's not the previous thread... but the previous thread isn't showing up in the archive? Shit, did it get deleted or something?
>>48225273
>>48225313
Real previous thread:
>>48200863
>So WIP that the first post is WIP
>>48225313
>Wait, that's not the previous thread
I had to make do without the text file containing our usual copypasta when I made >>48163825, hence my comment:
>"Copypasta will be back to normal next time" edition.
I learned from my mistake and have a copy of that file on my flash drive now. Thanks for starting us a new thread, anon. Here are the remaining links for the OP:
>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw
>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU
>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
>In the face of death, I shall have no remorse.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_ZgyNoHtjw
Alright ya gitz da boss to me to show da new boy around
>>48224185
sure!
Basecoat abaddon black
Layer leadbelcher over the metal parts, Balthazar gold on the gold trim, and Stoek Green over the cloth and armor trim.
Wash everything except the claws with Agrax earthshade, was h the claws with Drakenhof Nightshade
use Typhus corrosion in the armors recesses, then use a dry brush to draw it out slightly while still wet.
Highlight metal parts with Ironbreaker and blue parts with Temple Guard Blue
Anyone have any experience with these guy's paint service?
>>48225273
>[YouTube] How to Magnetize a Tyranid Carnifex (embed)
Ah ha ha ha ha lesson learned don't start WIP threads first thing in the morning.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
>>48225937
Safe to assume that most people on /wip/ don't have some service paint their shit. Not to say there are absolutely none, but you might be bettter off asking in 40k general.
>>48225273
IT: Where are all the Johnnys edition
almost done with her, just need to do the base
>>48226147
Neat
>>48226147
damn nice. can you give me an hours estimate to complete this?
Im really happy with how the gore pool turned out. It's Mephiston red, purple wash, then tamiya clear red gloss.
These 3 are probably 95% done. The Blood Pact witch is made from a silent one by malifaux.
>>48226147
Why did you use such a similar colour for the spirit and the branches surrounding it? I feel it would look better with the spirit contrasting or sticking out anyway.
>>48226530
one day, I don't have some of the paints so I'll finish it at my lgs and take the pics there
>>48226761
the spirit had initially to be blue but I didn't like the result so I switched for some red to keep it in theme with the autumn scheme
>>48226705
use blood for ze blood god form citadel, it will make that pool even more gory and convincing.
Still, lookin really nice,
Long time lurker here, so i finally got into the hobby recently, got my paints and glue but i only have the one brush and games workshop prices are pretty terrible so i guess what im asking is where in the UK am i gonna get the best value for money on brushes and tools?
>Continuing from the previous thread:
>>48220580
Finished the Bleach Bone highlight on the horns, claws, and hooves.
Now on to highlighting the robes with first Mephiston Red and then Wazdakka Red.
Then the skulls and bones with Rakarth Flesh and then Pallid Wych Flesh.
>>48227184
>brush already has pigment in the ferrule
You'll get better value out of brushes if you avoid letting the paint get to the base, for starters. Long term that will cause the brush to split and become ruined.
I buy from the art shop in my town, brush prices from art shops vary from a lot cheaper than GW for stuff that's a bit worse, to a bit more expensive for stuff that's a bit better.
Tools wise, get a pin vise from ebay and buy your scalpel blades (and handles, for that matter) from basically anyone but GW. A pair of detail snips will set you back around a fiver on amazon, rather than the 20 squids GW will charge you for them.
>>48227184
http://www.rosemaryandco.com/watercolour-brushes/pure-kolinsky-sable/series-8-pointed-round
Rosemary and Co are a UK store that sells really high quality sable brushes, their Series 8 brushes are apparently the closest to Windsor and Newton Series 7, which are generally considered the gold standard for brushes in this hobby, but at a better price.
>>48227263
Thanks a lot man, the brush is a like 5 year old present from my nan so it aint my fault its got paint in it because my models are still on the sprue.
>>48227184
And get some quality brush soap to go with it.
Cleaning your brushes properly will make them last longer (some of my W&N Series 7 brushes are close to a decade old and still good), and don't let the paint get into the Ferrule, that's an excellent way to murder a brush quickly.
Anyone mind helping me out? I need new brushes and something to clean/take care of them with. I don't know where to get them from or what exact kind I'd need though. Something for drybrushing vehicles, and at least a couple for painting the smaller minis like guardsmen or marines.
>>48227213
Paint in the teeth with brown, then a shade of yellow and layer up to khemri or a bone shade of your choice ( never pure white.)
Sorry its just bugging me at this point. The rest looks good.
When I finish my minis, should I varnish them? What should I use?
I've been painting with Vallejo Game Color paints and I'm a little unhappy with the shinyness of the paint when it dries. Would a matte varnish sort this out?
I kind of want to get into airbrushing, but at the moment my paint station is confined to a small, hot, poorly ventilated bedroom. I assume airbrushing would be a bad idea?
>>48227477
Yes. Very bad idea indeed.
>>48227427
Was just thinking about the teeth while looking at the picture myself. I will do them after the robes as I already trashed my previous wet palette and started one anew with the reds.
Batch painting 20 (+3) models is becoming tiresome, but the end is near and it will be so worth it!
Still messing with these. Might have to shorten some of my tubes though, it turns out they're mostly much longer than the first one I found.... Makes them look a bit too tall and tree-like.
Maybe I could get some cyber-ewoks for them?
>>48227443
That's what matte varnish does, some like to give them a gloss and then a matt varnish later as the gloss supposedly protects better.
>>48227443
>>48227845
Gloss varnish has a harder finish, there are no "impurities" in the varnish, resulting in a more or less flawless surface.
Matte varnish by definition has something added to it to make it matte, which means that the surface has imperfections or it would be gloss as well.
FInally got all my Nuglites primed, really does wonders.
But man those flying sticks fit the drones like crap, even the longest ones had one drone unable to have t stinger one, another has it's pole hole so big the peg rattles around.
>>48224875
>thumbnails of videos don't show what the models look like
>clicking through
>oh nice, Duncan again
>don't like that chapter scheme though
>find one that I like
>Asian chick is painting in it
fuck everything
>>48227949
>>Asian chick is painting in it
Whats the point anyway?
She has no charisma, annoying voice and her painting skills arent that great, especially compared to Duncan.
Would I get the stink-eye from people for painting my Blood Angels like this?
From what I understand it was done with boltgun/gunmetal base coat, zenithal lighted with silver, and then washed with several coats of VMC clear red and a blue wash, followed by a gloss coat.
>>48228068
Better than "Girl"painting.
>>48228068
probably because shes a female. she also says the same shit over and over again
>"AND DON'T FORGET TO TAKE YOUR TIME!"
x100
>>48228082
>Would I get the stink-eye from people for painting my Blood Angels like this?
There are always people who dont like things.
YOU have to like itbut wip will still tear you a new one if you fail though :^)
>>48227949
drama queen again.
OH THE WORLD IS FALLING!
Greetings, /tg/! I recently was given a metal librarian model, and got all excited to paint it up for my Raven Guard. After a little research though, I discovered the model is actually Ezekiel. Someone suggested I paint it up and list it on ebay, then buy a generic librarian. Thoughts/opinions?
I learned that solder is very good for replacing cables today. It's extremely bendable
>>48228348
Other than the DA insignia on the book on his front, he doesn't really have anything tying him to the Dark Angels. Have you considered just doing some converting on him? As for painting and listing him on eBay, I have no idea what your painting skills are at to determine if you could sell him at a higher price than an unpainted one.
>>48228348
Just use Vallejo Fluo paints.
>>48228515
I thought his banner was where the Dark Angels iconography was mostly. I was going to replace his backpack with a plastic one.
>>48227810
>cyber-ewoks
Make it happen
progress on my necromunda terrain
How are the Citadel Brushes GW sells and which ones would I need for painting? Thinking of getting their M drybrush for my vehicles and their M texture for my bases.
>>48229231
The wash brush is amazing.
>>48229208
Speaking as a fellow Necromunda enthusiast, that's pretty neat. Nice use of sprue there, and tanks and silos are always nice. I imagine they're plentiful in the underhive, what with sewage, hot water, cold water etc. To make it seem more authentic, I'd suggest you take bits of steel wire and bend broken remains of railings along the walkways. Just enough to always be in risk of falling, but also enough to seem like ruins.
May I suggest you print a few posters and paste them on the ground level after it's painted? It'll look pretty awesome. I'll give you a bunch, and I know some other anon here on /wip/ made more.
Sorry about sideways photo I'm on my phone, anyway.. Dwarf WIP! Thoughts? Beards are hard
Are there any good arguments against priming and painting your models before assembling them? On assembled models some nooks and crannies can be really hard to paint.
>>48229554
It loos pretty nice, but don't think that excuses the photo.
All you need to do is edit the photo slightly and it fixes itself, I post from mobile all the time.
>>48229647
I've heard some people do it, so long as you clean them up first and pin them you're good to go.
Plus, it's pretty much mandatory on some models.
>>48229554
Looks fine, might be a bit heavy on the gold/browns/ruddy skin, maybe some silvery edge highlights on the gold to make different parts stand more apart.
How do you make heavily rusty models? do you paint with rusty color over the already paint miniature or do you use a metal brush to scratch the paint and leave the rusty paint (you applied before) emerge?
Are Vallejo washes okay?
I wanna buy a blue shade, and the Vallejo one is about 5 bucks cheaper than Drakenhof nightshade
>>48229647
Well make sure to protect the contact surfaces you'll be gluing form primer otherwise you'll get a soupy gunk of glue, melted plastic and primer seeping out along the seams, also make sure to cut free large bits of sprue that'll connect to visible areas, try to maybe only keep one connector attached under a foot or similar hidden place.
>>48229695
Rusty or peeling paint?
>when your paints begin to behave like a cunt and you cant get the right consistency
>when your glasses' frames are broken and keep having your vision blurred in one eye while edge/line highlighting
>>48229715
if i am not mistaken citadel shades hold 24 ml, against the 18 of vallejo's i think. but yes it's fine
>>48229735
lets start with rusty because peeling paint sounds like something too advanced for me.
>>48229554
is the picture's white unbalanced or are you on fire?
>>48229786
well they do have a rust effect you can buy, but otherwise you paint brown a drybrysh a little metal on top of that.
Just got a drill bit and some wire. Time to finally drill my barrels and pin the arms of my guardsmen!
Reposting this for some comments and critiques.
Going to prime up some more minis tonight. Always fun when more come in.
>>48229901
are those plastic guardsmen? Evn if they are metal, doesn't glue on itself work for such small pieces?
>>48229773
I'm not gonna use the whole bottle anyway.
Thanks
>>48229963
Ah, no I mean for painting them, as the arms and lasguns get in the way of the chests.
>>48229647
It's harder to place zenithal highlights on a subassembly that's not attached to the main portion. I'm doing a bunch of minis with subassemblies right now, but I'll be gluing them together after everything's basecoated, so I don't highlight things that are in the shade / have inconsistent lighting angles.
>>48229988
ah right, sorry, i thought you meant pin glueing
>>48229786
Paint your model in rust color
Spray hair spray all over it
Sprinkle salt
Thin paint normally
Remove salt with a stiff brush and water
>>48229647
I paint all my character models unassembled, but I don't bother with the basic infantry. There's nothing wrong with doing it that way. You just need to take extra care when glueing them together.
>>48229973
actually 17 ml, just saying.
>>48229896
i also saw the other way around, kind of overbrushing with bronze over metal. Effect isn't quite rust, but it sure looks like ruined metal
>>48229904
looks good!
>>48228082
If your models look like that, no one is going to give you shit.
If your models look like shit, THEN people give you shit.
I assume that sweaty hand oil over a metal mini will fuck with the priming?
Best way to clean it quickly would be... faucet and air dry?
>>48230169
dish soap, warm water and a tooth brush, pat dry with a clean towel or paper towels
>>48227477
I airbrush in a small, cold, damp, poorly ventilated room and its fine...
All these lung fags...
So i tried zenithial highlighting.
Black undercoat, white sprayed from the top, then basecoated with red (all airbrushed). You really couldn't tell the difference between the red on white vs the red on black.
So I just airbrush highlighted with a darker red.
>>48230336
means your red went on too thick
>>48230383
It really wasn't - its an airbrushed layer on incredibly thin red.
I mean, you could notice it, but it was difficult. It really wasn't a powerful effect
>>48230414
of*
>>48230414
He may well have meant thin as in low saturation not as in how thickly it came on.
>>48230414
Not him, but In this case thin doesn't mean it's an ok layer which doesn't cover detail, You need to thin it more if you want the effect to be more visible.
>>48230566
The word you are looking for is opacity(or something like that, i am not sure this is how it is spelled). Desaturating a colour means adding white or black (or its complementary) to it.
>>48230336
For zenithal effects to work you don't dilute paint with nedium, you dilute medium with paint.Exxagerated Hyperbole
>>48230652
Ah yes thats the word, I know colour theory, just lost in translation.
Anyone here beyond me that has trouble with transfer sheets? I have trouble making it stick and conform to the miniature.
guys what's your opinion on cool mini or not(the galery)? There are definitely some great models, but i kind of feel like poeple tend to give votes in a bit of a random way, not judging the paintjob, but the falshiness of the mini. Am i the only one?
>>48228451
Just remember that it's poisonous
>>48228100
>Hello Tubies! It's your Alexandra here agai- *clears throat* (sounds like car engine failing to start), again with another painting video...
>>48228068
>She has no charisma
How is this relevant? The other two are pretty important though but being charismatic has nothing to do with a tutorial or giving instructions.
I'd consider SDub to be pretty nerdy and uncharismatic but his videos are top notch and I like him regardless.
Are these good for Space Marines, Imperial Guard, and Vehicles?
M Dry
M Texture
M Base
M Layer
M Shade
Looking to use higher quality brushes than the really cheap stuff, I've heard Citadel's brushes are good, if a bit pricey?
>>48231435
it may surprise you to learn that most humans respond subconsciously to facial, body, and speech cues either positively or negatively, and can thus derive either enjoyment from a person with good nonverbal cues and verbal prosody, or can be annoyed or bored by someone who lacks these things
someone paint my stuff for me
>>48232145
This. My other problem with Emma is that she doesn't sound confident and sure of herself, especially when she repeats things needlessly or goes "Um, ...". It's quite annoying. I just hope they don't have her paint the legions I want to do.
>>48231966
If you really want GW stuff the most important brushes are base and a detail brush. With that you should be able to do nearly everything. But if i may, don't buy GW if you have access to better stuff.
>>48232314
My problem is that I don't know what better stuff is. That's why I'm asking on here. I need a drybrush for drybrushing vehicles and such, and something for texture paints and bases, but I don't know what to get other than those. I also need to get something(s?) to take care of them with as well.
>>48232145
Have you got a source on that? I don't doubt that, but would like to read more
>>48232349
Both drybrushing and texture placing(are you sure you will need that?) can be handled by old brushes. Army painter is usually easy to get from any hobby store and is pretty good( the red brown handle is cheap entry level stuff, supposedly en par with GW, while triangular brushes could be called high end), winsor & newton series 7, kolinsky red sable also have the best reputations. Da vinci and rosemary(it's two different brands) are not as famous, but good too.
making good progress on Zoraida (Malifaux character if you're curious).
I'm not sure what colour to paint all the voodoo dolls though, i'm thinking either brown or maybe a dark blue just to provide some slightly different colours as she's looking a bit samey to me at the moment.
>>48232409
>are you sure you will need that?
If we're talking about the texture placing, then yes, as I'm going to use Stirland Mud for my bases, with a drybrush of Terminatus Stone and some sprue 'rocks' as well. If you're talking about the drybrush it's because in Duncan's painting videos where he does vehicles he uses the M drybrush and drybrushes them. Outside of the GW brushes like with the places you've mentioned, I still wouldn't really know what to get as I'm rather new to the hobby. I'm sorry if I'm sounding rather stupid, still trying to learn everything associated with everything.
>>48232409
I use the triangular brushes, and they're pretty good. They do a 3 pack with a regular brush, small drybrush and fine detail for less than £10. That's a pretty good range for most stuff you need unless you paint tanks and so on.
>>48232508
I like the brown you have atm, it looks like she made them out of clay
>>48230257
>All these lung fags...
Since when has not caring about your health become trendy?
>>48228451
Also remember to use -solid- 60/40 solder. The resin- or acid-core stuff is nasty.
What colors do I need for a Commissar? I'm not sure just by looking at the box.
Hey, what are some good tutorials/articles/etc. for painting black armor? I want to go black & gold for my Retribution army, but I know just slapping some gloss black on and being done with it isn't the way to go.
>>48232567
>caring about your health
Caring? No probs. Obsessing?
If the prospect that you might inhale acrylic paint fumes terrifies you, you're almost certainly in the wong hobby.
>>48232601
black fabric and blood
>>48227213
Bob!
Wait Robert is new... I haven't seen him before
>>48232686
um... no, if that concerns you (and it should, hero) then you prepare properly and wear a mask.
To you, there is just black and white, eh?
Wear a mask, obsessive.
Don't wear a mask, whatever.
First time doing a cape, I think it looks good but any C&C is welcome. Also how do you guys get your minis to stick with sticky tack to a paint pot? This heavy ass metal guy doesn't want to stay put, and you can see where I fucked up and messed the paint up on the tip of the cape because of it.
>>48232746
also did my first draft base on a real model, any further C&C than I've already gotten is welcome here as well. Only looking for advice on the base though, as I know the Sister herself needs improvement as it was the first Sister I've done and I was experimenting.
>>48232540
You can google that. Army painter triangular has the "most wanted " package the other anon mentioned. For the other a 0 and a 2 are all you need(you can also get away with a 1 only)(i heard da vinci has different numbers)
>>48232746
looks good for your first attempt, I think the highlights (specifcally the transition between them and the base layer) could be a bit smoother though.
WIP on my Death Guard. Highlighting is next stage. Just spent a couple of hours doing the rusted metal.
Pic is a little blurry, I know. Can't seem to get the light right.
>>48232746
Did you shade him?
>>48232773
I think it could use some highlighting
>>48232816
Too blurry, but it looks more like like pure bronze than rusted.
>>48232822
Yeah I used druchii violet. It's not obvious I did, so I was considering just using nuln oil in the recesses but not sure.
>>48232794
Yeah that's what I was having the most trouble with, the transitioning
>>48232816
Get rid of that reflection in the back and try to angle it to frame the backdrop only.
You have a dark background and a shiny reflective bright white.
Also, with your camera, you can usually press down where you want the focal point and the move your finger around to change the light reference point.
>>48232713
Is your name Rob(ert)/Bob(by)?
>>48232856
Thanks anon. I'll try that and maybe post another update when I've done the next highlight stage.
>>48232700
That's not very helpful, anon.
>>48232875
Nop, just a minor synesthesia. With miniatures is rather fun, because colours plus the models turn into sounds.
So Bob is Bob for me because the model and colour sound like that. Robert is Robert, because he sounds like Rolert, since Rolert is not a name, Robert it is.
Where's the easiest place to get a hold of a large number of power spears/Lances?
>>48232949
It is a commissar. get your head out of your ass
Attempting to salvage fully assembled marines is the most miserable task.
>>48233345
>5mb photo
wew
e
w
Everyone's favorite giant autist
>>48226010
They're probably hiding around here somewhere anon, those little sneaky beakies.
>>48233184
I'd imagine you could re-purpose Grey Knight Nemesis Halberds to suit your needs.
>>48233591
Yay Perty.
I'm just realizing, is he standing on the ruins of a Knight?
>>48233291
Anon, don't be rude.
>>48228082
I personally think the all-Gold looks gaudy, and would only use it as trim, or a secondary at most. That Apothecary's paintjob is fucking stellar.
>>48233591
Give him a magnetized head. One normal on comedy
Army Painter primers...how do you guys remove it? I'm about to start Day 2 of Simple Green with minimal results. As a sidenote I will never prime in windy humid weather with expensive primer on expensive models again.
>>48233617
Yeah, one of FW's cerastus ones.
So I bought a shitload of Slaanesh models and backed the TGG2 Kickstarter for the Slaaneshi proxies.
What are the basing recommendations for Daemons? How would one pursue a phantasmagoric flower Slaaneshi landscape base?
Its for 9th Age, so square bases.
>>48233892
I don't even feel like giving advice because I give so much advice like "don't prime yellow models with black" or "don't spray prime in humid weather" only for people to make posts like yours.
what colors should i use for a face
>>48233935
well if you help me de-prime these tanks I can guarantee I'll never spray prime in humid weather again. I'll also throw in an extra no priming yellow models with black as an added bonus.
>>48234003
Rubbing alcohol always removed AP primer for me. Should come off in seconds if it was recent.
I'm terrible at painting.
Anyway, I painted up a pair of minis to test a paint scheme.
Chest and above are dark blue; everything below the chest (plus the helmet) is metallic.
The chapter symbol is a place holder, but is supposed to be the silhouette of a doberman.
If they were painted well would the concept work?
>>48234165
That terminator's arm has fallen of half a dozen times, btw.
>>48233733
Anon, don't be an anal unimaginative cry baby
>>48234198
Hazard stripes are the devil.
>>48234262
Nice. Like what you did with the bases too.
>>48234044
I hadn't thought about that. Yeah I primed it two days ago so pretty recent. How'd you use it? just with a cloth or did you give it a bath?
>>48234228
Hazard stripes doesn't go well with that color scheme. They are a very industrial/punk/retro look while your colors are a more regal look.
You might be better suited with a single or double blue stripe like this.
>>48233960
Check the paint guides for faces in the copypasta of WFB General.
>>48234361
Hmm. That might work.
My second plan was to go for the classic red bolters option, but I like the looks of the blue on black.
>>48234342
I never had to strip anything larger than infantry so I just bought a huge $3 bottle of 70% and poured a bunch in a small tub and put the models in. It'll slide off by itself after 5 minutes or you can scrub it if you're impatient.
Don't let them soak for too long though if it's finecast or resin. Don't want to soak more than an hour or you start getting a tiny bit rubbery feeling on the sharp corners and you have to wait for it to dry out to regain hardness. Plastic and metal should be fine.
If your tank is too big, just put as much alcohol as you can in the tub and then give it a bath and rinse alcohol on it while scrubbing.
I currently have a big necron commission to work on, but between stuff for that, I need to paint some other stuff, but I'm not really inspired to do so, so I need you nigs to pick for me, the stuff I currently have to work on are
Infinity Haqqislam
Malifaux Shenlong Crew
Malifaux Ressers
Dark Eldar
Help me /wip/, you're my only hope!
>>48234403
paint the ressers.
What stuff is it anyway?
I painted two dreadnoughts.
>>48234391
thanks, I appreciate the advice!
>>48234165
>>48234198
>>48234228
>If they were painted well would the concept work?
Yup.
I think it's a good scheme and you get extra points for doing the danger stripes. That instantly makes everything better in my book anyway.
That said, I'm wondering about the helmets. How are you gonna paint the veterans and veterans sergeants?
Standard codex colors?
I also like the idea for the chapter symbol, but I hope your freehand skills are better than the place holder there.
Personally I can't deal with decals, so I ended up freehanding every symbol on my first army which was pretty good practice in retrospect and looked pretty good in the end. Anyway, printing decals is always an option too.
>>48232731
lol. lung fag.
Its not asbestos m8y
>>48234435
I love the green on the bottom one, how'd you get that color?
>>48234434
Belles, rogue necromancy, doxies, crooked men, punk zombies, ashigaru, izamu, yin, toshiro, a mostly painted can lo and a soul Porter, chiaki
>>48233906
Fields of dicks.
>>48234468
good luck, I really can't get to grips with painting ressers, always turns out crap when I try. It's a shame because I love playing Kirai
>>48234435
That IW dread looks unreal, anon.
>>48234443
>Personally I can't deal with decals,
Tell me about it.
I'm going to practice as much as possible before doing the real thing. I know it's "a poor craftsman who blames his tools," but the white I was using was almost dry. Fortunately I have many spare shoulder pads, so I have plenty of stuff to practice on.
As for helmets, I'm not sure. I may go with black helms.
I was thinking it might be fun to use a similar system to the Blood Angels and use different colours for each type of marine.
I'll play around with it.
>>48234450
What does asbestos have to do with anything?
You won't right out die from it either, so cool your drama jets. Breathing will just be harder when you are older and you'll look back and go "man, should have worn a mask. it was such an easy thing to do, but instead here I am calling people fags on the internet. My life was a waste anyway, meh."
If only it would instead make you sterile.
>>48233892
Super clean. Simple green does nothing to army painter
>>48234467
Vallejo panzer ace color- USMC Tank Crew
and enamel wash(1:1 ratio flat black, brown)
>>48234435
ease up on the photoshop man. The way the photo is balanced it's impossible to tell what the hell is actually going on there.
>>48234602
>>48234443
Speaking of detail bits, does anyone have experience with paint pens?
>>48235223
Yes.
>>48235374
Fair enough.
Can you tell me about how it went? Was it effective? Would you suggest their use, or should I stick with fine detail brushes?
>>48235408
They're easier to use than brushes but the results aren't as good as paint because it's archival ink instead of model paint.
>>48235579
Damn, that sucks.
Thanks for the reply, anon.
>>48233906
Either nice colours or full Giger.
>>48234490
I second this, great plains of penises, some flaccid, some tumescent, of all shapes, colours and species
get full degenerate with it
>>48230923
Little vinegar in the water softens them better so the lay flatter
Testing my scheme for Alpha legion
>>48230019
Even then it's not a terrible idea to pin everything and use super glue for the pins.
It will be strong but you can always put them in the freezer to disassembly if you want to repaint. And there's almost no risk of getting glue somewhere bad and ruining a model.
Finished adding detail bits and rivets. Chopped up about 12" of plasticard rod in the process of making rivets. Now starting to paint.
The gun pods on the hat are magnetized, so I'm going to prime and paint them separately. The arms are built around the original Mr. Potato Head arms, so they pop in and out of the sockets.
I've been trying to think of a good name for the finished Stompa. Something that alludes to the "Mr Potato Head" thing. Like "Da Bigga Mista Zod-kop."
Back view of >>48236560, with the engine gubbinz.
>>48232145
That's part of why I'm not fond of Duncan actually. He talks to fast and I'd describe him as twitchy.
But overall warhammer tv doesn't hold much value for me anyway.
>>48232746
Seeing as you've not even done the base yet you should not attatch it.
Just put pins into the underside of the model and stick it in a cork or wood block. It will be much more secure. You could even turn it upside down for painting.
>>48232200
Watchu got senpai
>>48236466
colors look good, but it doesn't look very chaosy imo
>>48236655
that sounds like a better idea, but what do you mean by pins? I have a tab open for a youtube video about it that I was going to watch earlier which I assume will answer my question
>>48236696
epic, warhammer quest, bfg, marines, inquisition stuff, etc.
>>48236754
What color you doing for the marines?
>>48236769
gold with silver trim, very basic. real talk though I'd probably feel terrible having things I didn't paint myself, like I cheated. I just want things to get painted so I have a nice army. I do eventually hope to get a AoS army and don't care who painted it as long as it looks good.
Converting Ungrim Ironfist from an extra runelord body, using some bits from warrior and longbeard vets. Horns from a banner and some phoenix feathers for hair. I am planning to green stuff scales onto his cloak and I may remake the hair.
>>48237061
Dear lord I can never get them to post right side up...
>>48236976
Painting shit yourself is always satisfying, even if you're not great. It's the only way to get better as well!
>>48230138
I'm not that good, but I have a general idea of how he did that and I've been experimenting a lot with sacrificial beakies.
Admittedly, the armor on most of these doesn't look that complicated. The faces, banner, etc. are all fantastic though.
>>48229749
Emperor's throne, stop buying miniatures for like 5 minutes and get some new glasses
Finished my Leman Russ. Now I just need to order my brushes and a couple paints and I'll be all good.
>>48237662
And forgot the pic like a fool.
>>48237706
>are you not entertained?
>>48225901
I made this for anyone who wants it
>>48238094
I'm happily surprised that people liked my stuff so much!
>>48233617
What´s the original? "How to realize your kid is a psycho" or something like that ?
>>48238879
Signs of autism, you autistic newfag.
My second and third mini I ever painted, dunno if I'm making progress but I like the look of the official color scheme of the cyclops raider
>>48239015
Looking good, lay down a black wash and those models will look much better. If you wanna be anal about it you could clean up where you spilled over with gold. I might try Skorne for mk3
>>48239015
A few things
>undercoat your gold with a layer brown first or it will show through.
>Don't thin your metals with water, add a little medium only when you absolutely have to. If your metal paint is lumpy it has gone bad.
>don't be afraid to go back and clean up with a smaller brush
>do the rivets on the faceplate and such in a different metal color like chainmail to make them stand out better
All in all I think you're doing well but your basecoats are shining through because red and gold are not very covering. Brown and black are the most covering colors so brown followed by gold looks much better.
>>48225273
My first ever mini, I followed Warhammer TV and looked at slight differences in the starter rulebook.
>>48239418
Thanks, I'm always cleaning up afterwards but without a proper desk lamp I couldn't see all the details yesterday evening.
>black wash
NULN OIL EVERYTHING!! Gonna do that after I'm finished with my Skorne battle group.
>>48239446
>undercoat with brown
that's actually a really good idea, gonna try that with my next mini!
>don't thin your metals
Really? I always thought that every paint should be thinned. Why not the metal?
>cleaning up
I'm doing that, believe me it looked horrible before but as mentioned above the light was too dim and I couldn't see all the details anymore ;_;
>do the rivets on the faceplate and such in a different metal color
desu I didn't even see them on the faceplate, guess it's time for a desk lamp first
Thanks guys!
>>48239494
Metals tend to already be thin and if you add water, the lighter metal particles will flow up and coat your mini in stripper glitter.
>>48239501
Good to know, will try today!
>>48239517
Oh yeah, if you're going to buy a new lightbulb get a full spectrum daylight lamp with at least 400 lumen
>>48238154
Good work anon
>>48233615
Are those 2 variants of the same guy or has someone carved his shoulder-studs off?
>>48239558
Gonna need an IDENTIFYING HERESY version of that
>>48238094
Appreciate you posting this, those guys look sweet .
>>48239598
Will this do, sir?
>>48239795
>Says heretic
>>48239795
Gorgeous, saved
>>48236560
>>48236589
pretty cool. that metallic paintjob looks pretty good too, which is harder to do at larger scales like that (at least it was for me)
>>48239475
Looks really good excellent job
>>48239475
Nicely done! Some edge highlights of runefang steel can really bring out those sharp edges (along the lion's mane, rivets and lightning bolts).
>>48239589
Yep, two models of the same guy.
Someone sanded off the Bonding Studs off of one of them before I bought 'em though, but to me that just gives the lil guy more personality and history.
>>48234165
Now the color scheme is nice, but you might want to look into Storm Wardens...
It's basically the same.
I've just been painting some second hand space wolves that I got from a friend, but the way he's assembled them is triggering my pauldron autism. The squad marker pauldrons are on the wrong side, any tips to fix that without needing to just rip the damn arm off?
Made some more progress on my Tech Priest Dominus. I know it's base studio, but I like the Mars scheme. Still have work to do, but happy so far.
>>48240884
if yhe used plastic glue no way, if he used super glue maybe freezing it might work
>>48241060
Or dropping them very hard on the floor.
Get a box, open top and bottom. Smash the models into the box.
If they are melted for some stupid reason using plastic solder. Good luck with a dremel and a blade.
>>48240988
I hope you still plan on doing the vials on his back.
>>48240988
That's pretty fucking great for something that's still in progress. How do you do that plasma glow?
>>48238094
Thanks!
>>48239475
Well done, really good mini.
>>48225870
That looks Zoggin sweet! Outstanding anon
Duncan proven for being gifted and blessed.
>>48236754
'Pinning' is when you dill into the model and use some wire that fits into the hole well. Put a little super glue on the wire and stick it in.
Guitar strings or paper clips work well for your wire.
You paint your model while holding the wire then when you're done you snip it so about 2mm is left poking out and you stick it into a hole on the other part of the mini or it's base etc. Use only a little glue on the pin itself and you get a pretty strong bond that can still be undone in the freezer.
>>48239475
Fuck son, you gonna be good.
>>48241150
Oh I definitely do, still need to do that, the Skull, details here and there ect.
>>48241186
I didn't do anything special, just sort of psuedo wet blending/ controlled glazing (just thinned paint dragged into areas) used P3 Exile Blue for dark blue, P3 Meridius Blue, then P3 Arcane Blue, and finally Vallejo Ivory mixed in for white areas)
>Finally finish my Chaos Knight and is actully kinda proud of the result.
>Can't for the life of me come up with a good base idea.
>>48241954consider a church
How're you basing the rest of your stuff?
drycha is now completed
next project: even angrier durthu
>>48242066
Honestly not very consistantly.
Started out with a Chaos army and a daemon army but post AoS It's full on 40k in a mix so it's a bit here and there, mostly desert-ish to muddy, I had planned on making it snow themed but aparently good looking snow is a real Bish.
I have half an idea to make a small water pool with some broken pipes right under the knight, I just think it would take away from the banner which I actully managed to make readble.
For the airbrushers out there; how do you block off things you don't want painted? masking fluid, tape, silly putty, paper or other?
Also i'll be painting 20 tyranid gargoyles and assembling them after they're painted.
I want to try and do some of my already primed and assembled models but i don't see that working as they're too small, save for maybe my flyrant.
pic is the paint scheme i'll be using.
>>48242653
how did you do those rocks for the base?
also general basing tips/info sources would be greatly appreciated. I don't just want to do sand or blank bases for everything.
>>48242702
with......... rocks
bark is good for the job too
>>48242724
i guess i just need to find some gravel then...
>>48242653
Dude how THE FUCK did you ruin the quality like that.
Post the original picture, not the one instagram saves on your phone. This one has some truly fucked up colors
>>48242684
Totally depends on what you're masking. Something like a tank, where you're blocking out areas and you're worried about getting a good edge, you need tape. Putty gives a soft edge, but it's quick. Fluid goes where you brush it, but you have to wait for it to dry (and also remember to remove it). On something like nids, you might not want to mask anything; laying down a secondary color and hand brushing up the overspray might be quicker than carefully masking tbe plates.
>>48242684
tape is finnicky but i havent tried masking fluid yet even though i bought some. honestly the best things you have for "blocking off" (unless youre doing a pattern) is to paint things in the right order and make sure you control your airbrush well. even using masking tape paint can still sometimes get under the tape.
>>48242786
Colours and model are represented fine, spaz.
>>48243009
They're not, considering I saw the model myself just a few hours ago. You can't really see the difference between the white and yellows, or some highlights.
>>48241954
Perhaps a piece of chimera or some other vehicle typically driven by your enemy.
I know I have always wanted to base a leman Russ and shove a crushed tau fire warrior under the tracks.
>>48243092
That would be more the lighting and the limitations of the camera phone in that set up and surroundings.
A better suggestion would be to build a lightbox and take a proper picture.
>>48242786
My first time ever painting. Kaldor Draigo but I decided to experiment and make him stand out because fuck having just an all gray model with a few details
>>48243192
>>48243146
While I agree about the light, we had to take the pic at the local store, so there was no lightbox available at the moment.
You can see the picture has been cropped and the res downscaled, that's tipically done by Instagram to save some space, since the picture is displayed in a tiny square.
The colors are kinda off and it's really grainy.
>>48241236
hmm that's a good explanation, I watched the videos last night and they weren't as helpful. some people were saying they just superglue the base down. I feel like that would also work, since in my experience super glue isn't that strong that you couldn't just snap the model off without difficulty when finished
>>48243217
That looks awesome. Don't dig the red/blue, but the wooden parts are great. Maybe you should have gone for either red or blue as a secondary color. On the other hand I like it way better than the studio paintjob by GW.
>>48242724
>with......... rocks
I can't read that anymore without thinking Be'la'kor and him being "sent SCREAMING back to the warp" by them"
Anyone got the image?
>>48243257
Super glue is strong. But not to shear force, and that's what a dropped mini would experience.
The pinning helps as it removes most of the shear force by being a solid object bracing that direction.
It pretty much results in only twisting effectively breaking a bond and that largely only happens when you mean it.
I pin everything nowdays and use only a tiny amount of super glue. It's been really great.
>>48243009
See an optometrist please, something is seriously wrong with your eyes if you think that looks normal or alright.
It looks like it was compressed. Like 5 times.
