I've notice its cheaper to buy used models instead of from games workshop, but i'm unsure about the paint.
How do i go about stripping the paint?
Bendix 55 would make the deal.
>>47605642
Simple green or dettol for plastic. It's a fair bit of work though. Metal is super easy, can just use nail polish remover or similar
>>47605642
Pewter you can strip with almost anything and not worry about damaging the model, eg go straight for keytone, acetone, etc.
Plastics and resins can be affected by some chemicals.
It will take a long soak, easily a day or more, and still require serious scrubbing with a toothbrush, and you will get bullshit stuck in crevices and such. Sometimes it has to take an extra soak after scrubbing.
Simple green is what I use, though be warned it's not as harmless as the "environmentally friendly" marketing would imply.
"Goof off" paint remover I hear is a good one.
>>47605642
What is peoples opinon of buying used models? Everyone at my local store says don't do it.
You don't get the "joy" of paying and building it yourself.
Honestly, I see over priced models but that's just me.
>>47605716
depends on the saving for me desu. and if its something you cant really convert/personalize (idk... sicarian infiltrators) why not buy preowned.
>>47605654
>It's a fair bit of work though.
Get toothbrush with hard/rough hair, soak for 2 day, brush, repeat 2 or 3 times. Will strip 95% of hobby paints.
If somebody painted mini with industrial paints, tough luck, but you can always resell to another loser.
Second hand is good, you have the fun of rebreathing a second lease of life into something. Saves you money (so you can spend it on more stuff) and reduces the plastic sediment layer GW is trying to coat the surface of the earth with (Hey, got to create the 40k Terra Hive World somehow) You also learn more about how to adapt and modify, instead of just following the instructions, which neckbeard fanboys hate.
>>47606269
That's very helpful good sir.
>>47605716
Depends on the models.
I don't usually buy second hand models without getting a really thorough look at them.
Nothing worse than getting some shitty assembled models melted together with plastic glue that you really couldn't see in the promo because it was sprayed black and you bought in bulk.
>>47605716
Stop playing at GW shops where the staff will tell you to buy. 90% of my collection is from eBay, i've bought a few things brand new and if you want Forgeworld stuff you probably will have to buy from their store as anything from FW on eBay ends up selling for rrp.
>>47607143
Yeah, I think i may just do that.
The joy of reclaiming armor from the battlefield, giving it a new life into something that's seen years of service.
>>47607143
>tfw banned from local GW store because i have custom space marines and guardsmen made with ww2 and medieval model kits bits
>>47608120
Sounds like bullshit
I have a lot of non GW models, about half GW half not, the people at my store love the conversions, and the staff have never said anything bad about them whatsoever.
>>47608120
Space marines made with human scale knight models are going to look really janky
Space marines don't have human proportions
![s-l1600[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/pjgoCi3.jpg "s-l1600[1].jpg")
>>47605716
I'm opposed, but that's more because used models have a multitude of ACTUAL problems rather than that wierd shill justification you seem to be getting.
>shit glue
most secondhand models I see are overglued at best, and utterly swamped in glue at worst. Half the time its superglue, too, so there's no way to dissolve it without also destroying the plastic.
>missing parts
many secondhand models are missing easily broken-off parts or parts that the previous owner felt unneccessary. Try finding a secondhand Basilisk (pic related) with the crew and handrails. Wyverns have the same problem.
>lousy paint
not everyone knows the basics. A secondhand Leman Russ hull I picked up the other day was so swamped in paint you couldn't actually see where the side hatches were. Fortunately this is usually fixable with simple green, but occasionally the mong uses a non-acrylic primer and sprays it on poorly, resulting in a wierd knobbled texture that will never come off in a million years. I've lost a vox operator this way.
Your best bet is to buy marked off NIB (new in box) models. Depending on the model you can get them for anywhere from 20-40% off. Ebay is your friend. Another thing to do is look in your FLGS's discount bin. There's usually some 40k in there.
I personally don't mind if I consider the model 'saveable' because I can give it the love it never got from its previous owner. Some models can't be helped, though.
>>47608120
Ill take things that never happened for 400, alex.
>>47608120
is there many swastikas?
>>47608149
>>47608164
>>47608373
>>47608389
well techically they dont want me to bring them there, but since i dont have the money to make another "vanilla" army...
>>47608164
teutonic great helms looks very nice on them
>>47608222
>Some models can't be helped, though.
Everything can be salvaged if you play Orks.
>>47608640
True.
But I do not play orks.
>>47605654
>>47605663
what would be good for stripping resin? would dettol suffice or would that damage it?
>>47609686
Fairy Power Spray.
>>47605654
Denatured alcohol, mixed with 1/3rd water is the cheepst. just leave it in there for a hour or two, come back and brush it off with ane elctric toothbrush
Acid, clearly.
>>47608120
That's what I hate about GW stores. Want to have some female guardsmen by using Victoria miniatures? Pick up a Confrontation Acheron caster that would make a great neromancer? Using Raging Heroes Sisters rather than the very dated official ones? Fuck you, you can't play in the store. I prefer supporting local businesses over chains anyways.
>>47609840
Simple Green or LA's Awesome are good over-the-counter cleaners that won't harm plastic, but will fuck up just about any paint on them. Dump them in a solution for a day or two and take 'em out, and the paint will sluff right off.
>>47609835
I used this, leave them for a few hours and then use an old toothbrush to scrub them
Worked like a charm
>>47612496
Did they release their overpriced sisters?
>>47605716
My collection is easily 70% used bud and its fine. Really, most paint jobs are only a layer or two at most so it comes off no problem if you really want to remove it. I tend to buy ones that are marketed as only undercoated black, so I normally don't have to worry about it, and I guess I got lucky in the sense most paint jobs i've seen aren't too bad anyway.
Imperial Guard is no doubt the best army to buy used for, as most people haven't bothered to paint the hordes of little army men that this army requires. Space Marines as well, obviously, because everyone has at least a few of them. Daemons are, in my experience, the hardest army to find a lot of used stuff for, and I only ever see a few of the newer models. Good luck finding OOP Daemon stuff lol, people buy up those old, beautiful sculpts very fast.
>>47612496
>>47614242
They did, Sisters of bitch. I mean, bolter. I mean battle.
>>47605642
This is better than anything else I've ever used. Fast too.
>>47614687
What? You spray it on, or just soak it?
>>47605642
not sure about tanks, shit can be hard to strip because its bulk
but basically soak any plastic/metal models in Super Clean Tough Task Cleaner-Degreaser. Big purple bottle, at basically every wal-mart. You literally just wash the paint off with mild tooth brush scrubbing after soaking for a day.
Not sure how it handles resin, but its supposed to be ok. this is literally the best shit ever for stripping, minimal work.
Don't use simple green. Shit doesn't work well on really old paint and requires hella scrubbing with like a steel brush.
>>47605716
if you use ebay, there are what basically amounts to stores. The ones worth using sell either NIB or bits. both can be worth it or not. Prices change, but not by a huge amount or quickly, and they compete with each other enough to get fairly standardized prices.
Outside of that, don't buy right away, spend time searching, because price for quality can fluctuate all over the place. The words 'pro painted' mean less than nothing. Both of the things I've bought with decent paint jobs didn't advertise that way, and everything that did I stripped and repainted.
I have an actually pretty decent FLGS, so I try to buy through them when I can. My personal standard is: Used has to be over 25% under the store price after shipping.
>>47615437
btw handle with nitrile gloves, shit can mildly burn your skin. Also its like 8 bucks a gallon iirc
>>47615311
Spray and let it sit in a covered container for about 30 min to 1 hr. Repeat if needed.
>>47605642
In my experience be more aware of how the model is built you can often tell at a glance how good/bad a model is painted but sometimes if they're poorly built it can be harder to spot and take longer to correct.
>>47616472
sometimes I buy really hilariously terrible, but creative, models just for the novelty of it. It's often an experience in "how could someone possibly fuck this up this badly?"
The owner at my LGS and I have a good chuckle over it, and I can usually pick it up for even more of a discount.
I use simple green and a sonic cleaner.
After they sit in the cleaner and simple green, I brush them.
>>47616702
brushing with a tooth brush
>>47605663
Isopropyl alcohol will strip acrylic paint off plastics without having to leave it to soak for a long period of time, just apply it to a cloth and rub the model with it, or scrub with a toothbrush soaked in it. In my experience it's faster and less damaging than acetone.
I have no idea what happens if you try and soak a model in it, I'd wager it would make it extremely brittle.
>>47605642
Be careful, but recyling old and worn models is your best choice if you want to avoid price highs.
>>47605642
>>47605654
>>47609686
>>47609835
>>47612540
>>47615437
>>47617118
Don't listen to anyone recommending voodoo chemicals or specific brand names.
Most of the miniatures you buy will be basecoated with a spray can, and painted with acrylic. Most of the time they will NOT be varnished.
All you need to remove acrylic paint is alcohol. That's it. Hand sanitizer, all purpose sanitizing liquid, alcohol based cleaners, they all work.
Just get seriously anything with above 60% or so alcohol content, 80-90% is great (otherwise it's gonna be slow), put it in a plastic container with a lid, leaver your minis in there, and then just wait for the paint to melt. If you're in a hurry, use a toothbrush to scrub them clean.
This is completely safe for plastic miniatures, metal miniatures and resin miniatures.
You don't need iso, you don't need any special kind, just literally any alcohol based cleaning product with a high enough alcohol concentration. Usually they have ethanol in them.
No worries about pouring it down the drain, no worries about de-greasing your mucus membranes. Simple green and similar is no joke, that stuff is labeled as safe and environmentally friendly, but it's supposed to be diluted with a fuckton of water, using it concentrated, which you need for it to strip paint, can be a huge irritant.
Another alternative if you don't mind leaving something to soak in it for a week is liquid pine soap. which has the added bonus of smelling fucking delicious.
>>47621790
Unless it is Vallejo White Primer, that thing is impossible to remove on some kind of plastic.
